Welcome back! Pressure, Temperature, MAP, or Flex Fuel - sensors are an integral part of any engine management system and getting them properly connected is super important. In this step-by-step guide, the ever-patient Dave shows us how correctly crimp all Haltech push-to-seat sensor connectors. Enjoy! Covered in this video are GM-style, push-to-seat connectors for Temp, Pressure, MAP, Bosch Pressure/Temp, Deutch, Ignition Coil, and EV1 style sensors. Got a topic you'd like us to cover? Leave it in the comments section! ----------------------------------------------------------- Liked this video? Here are more like it: How to de-pin connectors: th-cam.com/video/Vt_rAIKPlWA/w-d-xo.html Crimping vs Soldering: th-cam.com/video/EAr2z6rGV7o/w-d-xo.html ECU Wiring Explained: th-cam.com/video/1mcHYgiTj5s/w-d-xo.html Wiring and Crimping Tools: th-cam.com/video/IpNfRaM_P04/w-d-xo.html
This was such a great video. So useful. I also think with his clear and concise instructions, Dave would smash it on Play School as a presenter. "Today kids, we're going to learn how to put a wideband on Big Ted's S13." Like seriously. A great presenter and teacher.
Knowledge is the key and patience. Great content 👍 Glad that You giving us exactly what to do with making sure all of the wiring harness. Haltech A++++🤘💯 Aussie Fan 💪🇦🇺🆒
i actually have a few crimpers that crimp both the small and the seal on at the same time, best advice i have for people is get one of those, hold the pin in the tool and move the wire and seal in and crimp both
Well I've already learnt something 5 minutes in. The rubber grommet should be crimped with the outside tang. I thought it just crimped against the wire insulation. Epic thanks Dave and CO
Great video, concise and well presented as usual. What crimper are you using for GM and Bosch EV1, the link to your shop only shows the Deutsch crimper. Also, what gauge wire are you using, and what brand? In particular the wire with a base colour and stripe
Nice explanation and vid..Question. Noticed the strands of wires were twisted before being crimped in the open barrel terminal. Does that effect the conductor connection between?. Just a thought.🤷🏻♂️
Have you changed the IAT plug? It seems like you need to feed the wires through the plug before you crimp, but have the green weather plug already fed on the wires on the other side before hand? I think the setup you have in this vid is better IMO
I've been using the ratchet style crimper that is supposed to crimp the copper and silicone simultaneously for over a decade, with varying results. Frequently cuts the silicone in half, sometimes doesn't crimp the wire enough. Leading to improper signals causing lots of extra diagnostic time. What brand of crimper are you using?
Hi Dave, Any chance you can reveal the how to on the wiring,assembly & disassemble of VW 1J0 973 802 & 1J0 973 702 Brake Wear Sensor on my 2017 VW Jetta.
Gotta mention that those GT150 pull to seat replacement connectors use reduced diameter seals and terminals, not standard GT150 terminals or seals. They’re also more picky about wire and insulation size, 18awg TXL is as big as they can take, GXL will not fit, nor will cheap “hook up/ primary” wire. Always have to check the data sheets with connectors, terminals , seals otherwise you don’t know if your combination will work well! This is a complaint I have with some plug and pin sets people sell, they don’t provide the manufacture part numbers or data sheets.
Good job, Dave. Question: Do the colours of the rubber insulation sleeves relate to wire gauge? Also, ever have a copper wire strand break off in your finger? Turns the wound green until you remove it ;)
The silicone seals are color coded to the diameter of the outside of the wire insulation. Since insulation is different thickness on different wire types it's not specific to the gauge of the wire. For example 22ga tefzel insulation is significantly thinner than 22ga txl which is thinner than 22ga gxl, even though the conductor size is the same.
You should not twist the conductors before crimping. Crimping creates a cold weld of the copper conductor and terminal, twisting the conductor can lead to voids after crimping which weakens the connection overtime with vibration and heat cycles.
while this is true, the TXL being used in most Haltech universal harnesses and the cutting/stripping tools used by most DIYers will not leave you with a crisp, straight bundle of conductors like you would get with spec 55 or tefzel. And in that case, not giving it at least a cursory pinch and turn is more likely to result in conductor strands that miss the nest. At least that is what I see from building these daily and repairing a lot of DIY work.
@@ben94cobra I’m not sure what your point is. Do the job well or don’t do it at all. You certainly shouldn’t encourage people to do it the wrong way. If your strippers are no good, get better strippers, they’re not particularly expensive. I did a bit of wiring today too, and didn’t need to twist any wires.
@@Turbochargedtwelve on the face, I don't necessarily disagree with that statement. However, it's important to read the room. Many hobbyists will not be able to afford the materials and tooling to execute a job to perfection, they're usually only aiming to do a sufficient job once. Those of us in professional settings or production, well that's a different story. I believe these videos are aimed at the former, not the latter, and to that point they are just fine.
Both of the pin styles for Deutsch are crimp style. The alternative would be soldered. One is an open barrel crimp and the other is a closed barrel crimp, but both are crimp style.
3:30 “small and fiddly” - oh, honey… :D the automotive world sticks to pretty large parts by the standards of today’s electronics. At work a few months ago, we were crimping 1mm pitch (center-to-center) terminals onto 28AWG wire. (The terminals are about 2mm long and 0.5mm wide.) I just soldered a 0.5mm pitch connector onto a PCB yesterday.
It’s kinda obvious, though. In the typical m-shaped die shape, you have the die (the m-shaped part) and the anvil (the part that presses into the die). An open terminal wouldn’t make sense going in any way other than with the open side towards the die. FYI, truly correct crimping is done using the genuine (expensive) tool from the connector manufacturer. Those tools always have a “locator” or “positioner” to hold the contact in the right place, so you can’t do it wrong.
@@tookitogo Most home mechanics buy generic crimping pliers rather than separate tools for each type of connector. Then it may not be obvious. A professional mechanic shouldn’t need to watch a TH-cam video to learn how to use the manufacturer’s specific tool.
Dismayed that you didn't address wires or cables with insulated shield. How do you'll put a pin on the strands of insulated shield, and what pin or connector to use?
I think I have seen more EV1 connectors that do not have a seal vs do have a seal. My guess for this is because most on these connectors also have a boot that seals away water etc.
Why can all connectors be like Deutsch, the most annoying part of making my gtr harness is matching all the nissan connectors. Probably spent more on the tooling than the connectors.
Give me the Deutsch round pin and barrel crimp style over the fold over leg type every day........faster and more reliable. Also, for the fold over leg style, DO NOT twist the wires. How are the legs supposed to go into the wire core when they are twisted? Spade connectors.......loathe them. Not exactly brimming with contact surface area either.
Welcome back!
Pressure, Temperature, MAP, or Flex Fuel - sensors are an integral part of any engine management system and getting them properly connected is super important. In this step-by-step guide, the ever-patient Dave shows us how correctly crimp all Haltech push-to-seat sensor connectors. Enjoy!
Covered in this video are GM-style, push-to-seat connectors for Temp, Pressure, MAP, Bosch Pressure/Temp, Deutch, Ignition Coil, and EV1 style sensors.
Got a topic you'd like us to cover? Leave it in the comments section!
-----------------------------------------------------------
Liked this video? Here are more like it:
How to de-pin connectors: th-cam.com/video/Vt_rAIKPlWA/w-d-xo.html
Crimping vs Soldering: th-cam.com/video/EAr2z6rGV7o/w-d-xo.html
ECU Wiring Explained: th-cam.com/video/1mcHYgiTj5s/w-d-xo.html
Wiring and Crimping Tools: th-cam.com/video/IpNfRaM_P04/w-d-xo.html
This was such a great video. So useful. I also think with his clear and concise instructions, Dave would smash it on Play School as a presenter. "Today kids, we're going to learn how to put a wideband on Big Ted's S13." Like seriously. A great presenter and teacher.
Patient explanation without being patronizing. Not a common combination at all. Imagine being his apprentice.
Knowledge is the key and patience. Great content 👍 Glad that You giving us exactly what to do with making sure all of the wiring harness. Haltech A++++🤘💯 Aussie Fan 💪🇦🇺🆒
Thanks:)
i actually have a few crimpers that crimp both the small and the seal on at the same time, best advice i have for people is get one of those, hold the pin in the tool and move the wire and seal in and crimp both
Wish this video existed before I had to pin a Bosch pressure/temp sensor for the first time!
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
This is literally what I was doing for 4 days straight working on #Rotaru our 13B rotary swapped Subaru BRZ. Very coincidental you release it now! 😂
I sense a great wiring and crimping video with Dave ahead!
Well I've already learnt something 5 minutes in. The rubber grommet should be crimped with the outside tang. I thought it just crimped against the wire insulation. Epic thanks Dave and CO
Had me mesmerized the whole time! :) My wife is watching Hallmark Christmas movies, and I’m engrossed watching Dave wiring connectors. 😅
LOL - both equally entertaining!
"and it hurts. like alot." haha, yes! especially under the nail!
Sounds like you speak from experience..... We've all been there:)
Great video as always. Very educational and simple to follow.
just stumbled on your video, excellent.
Awesome, literally doing DT connectors today, thanks for the video team
Some great tips Davo. Thank you.
Thanks for the info dave!!!
Thanks Dave!
Awesome video, really helpful thanks Dave
Glad you've enjoyed it:)
Love your work Dave.
Very informative, thanks for sharing
Great video, concise and well presented as usual. What crimper are you using for GM and Bosch EV1, the link to your shop only shows the Deutsch crimper. Also, what gauge wire are you using, and what brand? In particular the wire with a base colour and stripe
Nice explanation and vid..Question. Noticed the strands of wires were twisted before being crimped in the open barrel terminal. Does that effect the conductor connection between?. Just a thought.🤷🏻♂️
So good!
should get Dave to show how to depin that Bosch temp/pressure connector
Have you changed the IAT plug? It seems like you need to feed the wires through the plug before you crimp, but have the green weather plug already fed on the wires on the other side before hand? I think the setup you have in this vid is better IMO
Great Video!!!!
haltech HERO!
I've been using the ratchet style crimper that is supposed to crimp the copper and silicone simultaneously for over a decade, with varying results. Frequently cuts the silicone in half, sometimes doesn't crimp the wire enough. Leading to improper signals causing lots of extra diagnostic time. What brand of crimper are you using?
Hi Dave, Any chance you can reveal the how to on the wiring,assembly & disassemble of VW 1J0 973 802 & 1J0 973 702 Brake Wear Sensor on my 2017 VW Jetta.
What model/brand is the red crimper you used in the ev-1 connectors and others??
Hi,
Are you familiar with Saab ABS connectors? If so is the smaller hole on the pin socket when I would push for release?
Fantastic
what brand model crimper do you use for the open crimps i have tried buying online i find online don't fold the crimps well at all
Hey where do I found connectors like that ? I wanna practice and maybe making my first harness
Gotta mention that those GT150 pull to seat replacement connectors use reduced diameter seals and terminals, not standard GT150 terminals or seals. They’re also more picky about wire and insulation size, 18awg TXL is as big as they can take, GXL will not fit, nor will cheap “hook up/ primary” wire.
Always have to check the data sheets with connectors, terminals , seals otherwise you don’t know if your combination will work well! This is a complaint I have with some plug and pin sets people sell, they don’t provide the manufacture part numbers or data sheets.
Hey I'm Looking for the correct crimper for the EV1 connector
Good job, Dave. Question: Do the colours of the rubber insulation sleeves relate to wire gauge? Also, ever have a copper wire strand break off in your finger? Turns the wound green until you remove it ;)
The silicone seals are color coded to the diameter of the outside of the wire insulation. Since insulation is different thickness on different wire types it's not specific to the gauge of the wire. For example 22ga tefzel insulation is significantly thinner than 22ga txl which is thinner than 22ga gxl, even though the conductor size is the same.
What is the recommended wire gauge to use?
The crimping tool is not on your website. What brand model is it ?
Where can I purchase complete wire harnessb replacement for 1997 Dodge Dakota
The pin terminal used in the ECU (Engine Control Unit) and BCU (Body Control Unit) is called what? which types of PIN used in ECU and BCU?
You should not twist the conductors before crimping. Crimping creates a cold weld of the copper conductor and terminal, twisting the conductor can lead to voids after crimping which weakens the connection overtime with vibration and heat cycles.
while this is true, the TXL being used in most Haltech universal harnesses and the cutting/stripping tools used by most DIYers will not leave you with a crisp, straight bundle of conductors like you would get with spec 55 or tefzel. And in that case, not giving it at least a cursory pinch and turn is more likely to result in conductor strands that miss the nest. At least that is what I see from building these daily and repairing a lot of DIY work.
@@ben94cobra I’m not sure what your point is. Do the job well or don’t do it at all. You certainly shouldn’t encourage people to do it the wrong way. If your strippers are no good, get better strippers, they’re not particularly expensive. I did a bit of wiring today too, and didn’t need to twist any wires.
@@Turbochargedtwelve on the face, I don't necessarily disagree with that statement. However, it's important to read the room. Many hobbyists will not be able to afford the materials and tooling to execute a job to perfection, they're usually only aiming to do a sufficient job once. Those of us in professional settings or production, well that's a different story. I believe these videos are aimed at the former, not the latter, and to that point they are just fine.
Both of the pin styles for Deutsch are crimp style. The alternative would be soldered. One is an open barrel crimp and the other is a closed barrel crimp, but both are crimp style.
Why don't you use the TE names for the pins?
MQS, Micro Timer, Junior Timer, MCP and so on?
Much easier to order btw.
what size gauge wire is required for air temp sensors?
The click of a pin seating properly has got to be up there with the crack of a bolt or nut breaking free, in terms of dopamine inducing noises.
3:30 “small and fiddly” - oh, honey… :D the automotive world sticks to pretty large parts by the standards of today’s electronics. At work a few months ago, we were crimping 1mm pitch (center-to-center) terminals onto 28AWG wire. (The terminals are about 2mm long and 0.5mm wide.) I just soldered a 0.5mm pitch connector onto a PCB yesterday.
That's it, "honey" is what we are calling Dave from now on!
@@haltech 😂 🐝 You should!
One thing never emphasised on crimping tutorial s is which way up the connector goes in the pliers.
It’s kinda obvious, though. In the typical m-shaped die shape, you have the die (the m-shaped part) and the anvil (the part that presses into the die). An open terminal wouldn’t make sense going in any way other than with the open side towards the die.
FYI, truly correct crimping is done using the genuine (expensive) tool from the connector manufacturer. Those tools always have a “locator” or “positioner” to hold the contact in the right place, so you can’t do it wrong.
@@tookitogo Most home mechanics buy generic crimping pliers rather than separate tools for each type of connector. Then it may not be obvious. A professional mechanic shouldn’t need to watch a TH-cam video to learn how to use the manufacturer’s specific tool.
@@wheater5 It’s very obvious even with generic tools.
@@tookitogo Good for you.
you really do look like the actor who played shane in the walking dead luuul u always get that remark?
We wonder if Shane from the Walking Dead gets told he looks like Haltech Dave....
You need a manicure 💅 lolololol nice vid big D
Dismayed that you didn't address wires or cables with insulated shield. How do you'll put a pin on the strands of insulated shield, and what pin or connector to use?
Search TH-cam for "HP Academy splicing shielded cable" for a fantastic tutorial on the different ways to do that.
Long live the deutsch lol
kindly de-pin the bosch P/T sensor :)
No worries - we will cover it one day soon in a part two of some other connectors for Depinning.
Thank you
I've never seen an ev1 connector that didn't have a seal. That's very strange.
It should have seals, that boot isn't going to fully seal the wires from water as there will be large gaps at the wire end.
I think I have seen more EV1 connectors that do not have a seal vs do have a seal.
My guess for this is because most on these connectors also have a boot that seals away water etc.
Why can all connectors be like Deutsch, the most annoying part of making my gtr harness is matching all the nissan connectors. Probably spent more on the tooling than the connectors.
Kanga Krimpers
Give me the Deutsch round pin and barrel crimp style over the fold over leg type every day........faster and more reliable. Also, for the fold over leg style, DO NOT twist the wires. How are the legs supposed to go into the wire core when they are twisted? Spade connectors.......loathe them. Not exactly brimming with contact surface area either.
99.9% of sensor terminals are not closed barrel. If your stamped pins are not holding. It's 100% user error.
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You forgot the link to Dave's onlyfans page.
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