How to crimp your own cable harness
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2024
- Using a breadboard is convenient for prototyping, but if you want to make your Arduino or Raspberry Pi projects more reliable, robust, and professional, you might want to consider creating custom cable harnesses to connect your components together.
In this video, I'll show you how to use a ratcheting crimp tool and a set of 0.1" 2.54mm Dupont connectors to create your own cables.
The equipment I'm using is:
-SN-28B DuPont ratcheting crimp tool. e.g. www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-Vol...
- 24AWG stranded silcone cable. e.g. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-S...
- Set of Dupont crimp pins and housing (www.amazon.co.uk/620pcs-Dupon...) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ป่ะป๊าเลอา ชื่อ ??? [ดูคลิปเต็มหน้าช่อง] #Short | PANG ORNHIRA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ssxX0VkJCTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Guys, I've been crimping wires for many years on aircraft avionics systems which use crimp pins and I must clarify: The wings go up in the crimper, not down. The wings are to fold in on themselves in a curved movement, like a M. Otherwise you get a sharp bend on the wings that can fail. Putting the crimp pin in the crimper and squeeze several rachets and leaving just enough room to insert the wire works very well. Thanks for the video.
Do you use the same crimper tool? Because the one in the video only function with the wings facing down
Idk what you’re talking about, he crimped it correctly
His crimp tool has the die set installed upside down. Normally the anvil is on the bottom, but here it’s on the top, so the wings go down here. I’d just flip the dies around so they’re right side up.
Of course since it’s the wrong tool for these contacts anyway (hence the mangled insulation crimp) it hardly matters.
@@tookitogo Mangled?
@@xxxkueckxxxThe insulation wings on these contacts are designed for a circular insulation crimp, which simply tightly hugs the insulation but is not driven into it. The angled shape of each wing is designed to produce essentially a complete cylinder once crimped, with the angled edges of the wings in full contact (no gap).
For being the wrong tool, his result (at 5:15) is actually not _that_ bad. I’ve seen way, WAY worse out of cheap crimpers. But the result (tips of insulation wings driven into the insulation, barely meeting each other; also, the conductor crimp is too wide compared to what it should be, they’re supposed to be narrowed down a bit) is still a far cry from what it’s supposed to be. For that you need the correct tool.
Take a look at Matt Millman’s blog posts about DuPont contacts; it’s by far the most detailed and comprehensive overview of them, and includes photos of contacts crimped in top-grade tooling, cheap tooling of the correctish type, and cheap tooling of the wrong type.
Thank you soooo much. I've watched about a dozen of these, and this is the first one that has actually helped. You sir, have single-handedly saved the project I'm working on.
Thank you so much man. This is exactly what i'm looking for. I'm currently wiring LED buttons for an arcade using the female connectors and this video was super helpful.
Thanks a lot. There were some small tricks to make this go better.
Dude i can't express how much i am grateful for this tutorial. I've seen some earlier, but only watching this i've understood principle (this is: to crimp conductor wings as well as support wings at once).
It's worth noticing that i have possibly cheapest crimper ever, made from plastic and chinessium, yet female goldpins on 2x16 connector using thin ribbon cable looks just as factory one.
Thanks again!
Thanks, my friend had been talking about going down this route and getting a crimper for some stuff we've been making. Wasn't sure I really knew what was involved before but I get a good picture now thanks to your discussion. I like the sound of more flexible cable too...
Extremely helpful - thank you!
Brilliant video, thanks Allester!
Excellent video.
Perfect, just what I needed for an Arduino project that requires short female jumper cables. Thank you.
Jus started out with making my own cables for ISO Harnesses (Android Head Units) and by default the speaker cable are 20 AWG. I'm replacing them with 18 AWG using the same type and size of crimp connector and struggle a little bit with getting the new cable to fit in the housing. This video really helped me to solve this problem. Thank you
You've connected some dots for me. Thanks man.
Nice demo.
super helpful, looks like a crimper(special tool) is required after all, got one on order. Now I'll finally be able to get these connectors setup for my other 3d printer extruder :)
THANK YOU GOOD SIR. it was very helpful. thank you for sharing the knowledge
Thank you ! I just got the crimping tool and you helped me to do a good job from the begining :)
Awesome - Glad I could help!
Great video, have done way too many of these already. I use a paper clip to push up the female pins
I often use a sewing needle a thin one to get the pin out if needed to solder an extra wire or so and then use a shrinkhose to keep it tidy.
I have tried and been generally disappointed with a cheap Chinese SN-28B crimping tool. Many connections required multiple attempts to create a solid connection to the pin with a crimp that would fit easily into the plastic housing. This was especially a problem when adding Dupont pins to a ribbon cable where multiple attempts would create different lengths for each of the strands, resulting in a sloppy cable termination in the housing. I've also had a problem with the tool sticking in the closed position, requiring pushing the quick release lever to open the jaws.
Recently, I found a new crimping tool on Amazon that has delivered outstanding results with both male and female Dupont connections. So far, I've built a few dozen multi-strand cables with only a single failure due to user error in not inserting the wire fully into the pin before crimping. The cost was only slightly higher that the SN-28B but also includes a decent selection of pins and housings.
Qibaok Crimping Tool Kit (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK5F8HP/)
I believe the SN-28B dies are not designed specifically for the Dupont pin geometry, whilst the Qibaok dies seem to do a better job forming the proper bend on the wings that crimp the wire's insulation.
You’re absolutely correct that the SN-28B was not designed for DuPont contacts - years ago I came across the original (western) manufacturer of it, and it was for 2.8mm spade connectors - far larger than a DuPont! Just as importantly as the size, it’s also not the right _shape_ - DuPont contacts need a circular insulation crimp, not m-shape. The SN-28BMA looks like it’s a tad smaller, which is better, but it’s still the wrong die shape. There are now some Chinese crimpers with circular dies, like the SN-25, but I strongly,y suspect they still haven’t actually made the geometry quite right, as it still looks to be a bit on the big side.
شكرا أخي
Thanks. Just what i was looking for. Are you saying only stranded wire will work? If yes - why?
Solid wire will work, but they’re really not designed for it and it may not end up being as reliable. I’ve done it a few times without issue. But of course I advise using stranded wire where possible anyway, since solid wire will break if flexed too many times.
I notice that removing the new terminal pin from its 'production tree' required several bends back and forth. The pins I have been using (purchased from Amazon), require only 1 each bend, back and forth for easy removal. I can imagine yours will tolerate handling much better and provide a much longer service life. Is it difficult to determine quality connector pins for purchase?
Buy name brand connectors if you want reliable quality (Molex, TE, Amphenol, Harwin, JST, Hirose, etc.), purchased from authorized resellers only (digikey, mouser, Farnell, Distrelec, TME, etc). eBay and Ali, you never know what you’re going to get…
FWIW, Harwin M20 are visually identical to Chinese DuPont, but the contacts are much better despite looking indistinguishable. But like Chinese DuPont (and Amphenol Mini-PV, the OG connector for pin headers, and the one with the highest mating cycles) they really need a circular insulation crimp die to crimp properly.
Cool
Any idea if a 20 pin connector (Im repairing a fuel line wire connection..) uses high amperage besides the fuel pump?
Can you use Ethernet Wires?
do you have a model and did where did you get it
How do you take them pins off ? I had a connector with cut wires and i need to rewire the connector
You need to research "Pin extractor tools". If you are looking to remove them from the plastic connector body.
"May be cheaper than the ready-made Chinese cables" - not in a month of Sundays for normal maker purchase quantities. Better quality, by far, though...
The first hit I get on eBay for ready-made DuPont cables from China is this:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DuPont-2-54mm-Ribbon-Connector-Wire-Cable-F-F-20cm-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-12-20P/401574503715
Which says 10pcs of 20cm cables = £3.53 (+ extra 1 postage) = £4.50 for 2 metres.
Using the silconce wire and I connectors I linked to, you can buy the same 2m of cable for £1.50, and you'd use 30/620pcs from the £10.80 connector set = £0.53 = £2.03 for 2 metres....
Bruh you make this look easy. Spent an hour crimping like 3 wires, these clumsy ole hands of mine. The wire kept coming out of the bezel..frustrating to say the least.
1. Make sure you’re not stripping off too much insulation. If excess strands intrude into the contact area, they can prevent the latch from latching.
2. Make sure you’re not damaging the contact area itself. The boxy part at the front must remain boxy, as that is what the latch pushes against to stop the contact from popping out. Some contacts have two extra little wings by the contact area itself, and these are not intended to be crimped down. (They’re extra rotation stops.)
3. Check that the insulation crimp is narrow enough. Many (most?) cheap crimp tools crimp the insulation too wide, sometimes to the point that it won’t fit in the housing. Check for interference on insertion. If it’s too wide, you may be able to use one crimp die smaller, or use pliers to slightly narrow the insulation crimp after the fact.
4. Check for axial bending. If the contact is bent up or down after crimping, it may no longer fit the housing. Carefully bend it straighter if you can and see if that helps.
And the video to remove the pins?
Ahh...Alistair get a pair of wire strippers and a pair of wire cutters and stop using pliers and scissors! The right tool for the right job will make your life much easier. Your have a really nice teaching style so please don't teach viewers bad habits.
But it is 24 awg most strippers don't go that small. I have strippers that do but honestly I find a pair of sharp needle nose of side cutters works better. Maybe it's a preference but I don't see the problem as long as you arn't cutting into the conductor.
@@RedBeard20842 Your teeth work too. ... But probably not too good for your teeth. LOL!
@@ronhobyak9902 guilty as charged 😬 😅
Nice fingernails.
Your camera is annoying tho
Switch off Auto Focus
Sorry - this is a very old video now! I have a better quality camera now for my more recent videos :)
This is impossible. Never works for me using this tool and my connections last just as long using a needle nose and solder. Done. This is a stupid system whoever invented this should be beaten.
Crimping works brilliantly when done right: the contact, the wire, and the tool must all match. Original manufacturer tooling makes it foolproof, since the original crimp tools have contact holders (“positioners”/“locators”) and wire stops that ensure the wire is in the right spot.
Unfortunately cheap crimp tools like this (which is actually fundamentally the wrong tool for those contacts, as the die shape and size is incorrect) lack all of those amenities, turning crimping into an inconsistent, frustrating experience.
I have started buying original tooling on auction sites and classifieds, where I can get them for $100ish instead of $300-1000. Well worth it if you’re doing more than one or two crimps.