"Leave your wire nuts in your house, t-taps in the trash can, and the twist-and-tape method to your competition." This was a very well executed and informative video on crimping and solder. So much misinformation and 'bad job' how -to's on Yt. Would have been great if expert covered the larger 00-4/0 AWG cables.
@@kylelikeskjvbible Wire nuts are code only for construction wiring that uses thick solid core wires and is never subject to movement and vibration after installation. They're perfect for house wiring - not so much for cars.
that "examples of tools that are not suitable for crimping include... a hammer " was hilarious, if your target audience is going to try to crimp with a hammer your probably gonna need an aftersales team working overtime the vide is very informative and very well explained. probably one of the best on this topic on youtube. definietly worth the thumbs up
At 2:25, those basic crimp tools that are "not recommended" do have one very valid use, which is for the threaded bolt/machine screw-cutting feature or function, which allows you to shorten the Fastener without totally bugging up the threads at the end where you cut it. It's handy to have one for metric fasteners as well as one for SAE standard fasteners.
Beautiful demonstrations. What a great educator this guy is, reminds me of one of my old trade school teachers. I still use these splicing and soldering techniques taught to me 15 years ago. I've never had a join fail. If splicing into old vehicle wiring that has oxidized through the insulation, I find that fanning the stripped conductors and wiping them a couple of times with some fine steel wool or even just soaking the copper strands with a flux texta will ensure the solder flows perfectly between the old factory wiring and new copper.
Great video! This covers pretty much everything I’ve learned over 20yrs working in installations and electronics manufacturing. The only thing I would add is the addition of a separate flux during soldering, especially for splices, as it ensures good solder flow through the strands. As for the common style crimps, I prefer to crimp on the split as I’ve found it allows for the “V” to bite better into the strands. For marine connections I solder after crimping, making sure to leave a 1/16” backspacing with the insulation before adding meltable wall heat shrink.
V finch I finally found a used 4 sided crimping tool on eBay that I could justify buying. It was $20 instead of $300. Needed cleaning and oiling but works good. Crimps far better than the one detent type. Great for eye,spade and hook type, but works really well on crimped wire nuts.
Very good and great info. on wicking the wire. I have watched hundreds of "How to Solder" and this is the only one that explained or even said anything about wicking the wire. Great job Thank You.
It is also important to clean the solder joint before applying the shrink tubing. While still warm, you can use an acid brush and isopropyl alcohol to clean away any excess flux. Flux will draw moisture eventually, even under shrink tubing, and lead to corrosion and failure.
Thank you for this excellent video! So hard to find good information on these subjects, especially this much in one place. Not to mention there wasn't any bad or incorrect advice I saw. I now have a new video on the topic of wiring I can add to my small collection of those worth sharing.
Thank you, great, down to earth video. Good advice for most people, including me, IMO. What I find most surprising is the dislike rate. At the time I am posting (Nov 5, 2018) this comment, it is 75 dislikes and approximately 1200 likes. So, of those that responded, 6.25% did not like the video. What controversial thing was suggested to bring in a response like that? I didn’t see it. Usually when I find myself posting a dislike, I feel obligated to tell the poster why I feel that way. I had a quick look at the comments and did not see anything substantive there IMO. The suggestion about the alligator clips piercing the insulation seems ridiculous to me. In normal circumstance you apply heat, apply solder, allow penetration and pull back in 2-3 seconds - hardly enough time for the insulation to get warm, let alone soften.
Pro tip: On the "Helping Hands" tool that hold wires for solder, wrap the alligator clips with electrical tape so the teeth won't pierce the insulation.
Pro pro pro tip use transparent heat shrink. If there's black on there replace. It confuses the hell out of people and you can see muck and grime better.
crimp if you have it, solder if you dont, crimp might benefit from some dielectric grease to prevent corrosion though, soldering fails on the cable where the solder ends, its much weaker than it was, it fatigues very easily indeed, just as this video shows, spot on dude
I got myself a ratcheting crimper and adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors. Absolutely love it. Looks much more professional and I have more confidence in the connections. Was pretty affordable too!
After buying good crimping tools, I enjoy doing electrical work. Also, using crimps prevents creating the brittle condition from the solder connection. I still solder larger gauge connections, but for 10 gauge and larger, definitely solder. Another key is to choose quality wire. I find that the higher strand count wire works better in general for any purpose.
Been crimping wires wrong for ages, wasn't taught properly to begin with and have likely wicked more soldered joints than I care to admit thinking I was doing it properly. Strain relief w/ heat shrink, never even entered my mind. Guess I have a lot more homework to do than I thought!
Oxidation and corrosion are a problem too. I do a version of this for battery cables and exterior elec. connections. I first slide two pcs of heat shrink up the cable (1 1/2" & 3") way up out of the heat. I place copper fitting in a vise vertical. Trim cable to proper length ( bottoming out in fitting). Flux fitting and cable and heat fitting and fill halfway with solder. Heat the cable end and quickly push the cable end into the fitting add more heat if the cable cools off the solder before bottoming in the fitting. I now crimp the cable end as this video shows. After cooling to touch, I coat the fitting and cable with silicone, slide the first length of 1st heat shrink (1 1/2") over the fitting/cable and heat, and watch silicone squeeze out, Next lightly coat the heat shrink and cable again slide the last heat shrink (3') over the cable and heat again watch silicone squeeze out, wipe excess silicone off. I have cable ends and electrical connections on my Semi that have gone through 6 seasons of mud, rain, and snow that are good as the day I did them.
Only the hydraulic crimper can make gas tight like you show at 1:08, metal welded connection. So hand crimper should go to the trash bin. Soldering and proper stress relief (by using heat shrink) from wire should be the only way to go. Soldering is an inconvenience if you work beside conveyor and make equipment to last only warranty time.
Whatever factory crimped connectors have been known to last decades without issues. So much for your only lasts as long as the warranty rant. In the event you want to promote solder why didn't you mention how to do it properly?
@@waswestkan Your right but all factories use hydraulic crimps for a forge welded connection. Otherwise every worker would need extended periods of leave due to strain injuries. Hand crimpers won't create that forged crimp unless it is a very small wire. Both methods, if done right, are acceptable for use in automotive applications. If I cannot get the right crimp then I use the best crimp tool I have to tighten the connection and then use the smallest dab of solder in the crimp to make a permanent connection. Follow that with shrink tube.
The only time I have seen a truly reliable crimp connection in a high vibration environment has been done using a hydraulic crimper. I used to make a soldiered western union spice (yes you can do it with stranded but you have to soldier it) but now I just use hydraulic crimpers for everything.
A hand crimper is perfectly capable of applying a ton of force - more than enough for a proper crimp on small cables. If you're not getting proper crimps, it due to something else... Could be the wrong lug or the wrong cable or the wrong crimper or badly designed dies or badly manufactured dies, etc, etc. A high vibration environment just means you've got to get your specification right - use the right lugs, crimped with the right dies, in the right crimper.
After 40 years of experience I use almost exclusively solder and heat shrink. Less money spent, less tools to buy that you can't find in auto or hardware stores, less connector sizes and types to fiddle with and keep on hand, better overall results in most situations.. I can't remember a single soldered connection of mine that ever failed, but I have had crimp connections fail mostly due to corrosion over time and poor quality crimp connectors.
Not true, A proper crimp connection is a mechanically welded gas tight connection and far less prone to corrosion and work hardening failure then soldered terminations. That's way NASA requires crimp connections on all wire terminations. Solder wire terminations are pretty much banned in the aerospace industry and for good reason. Lets put it this way You'll never see a soldered wire termination on a passenger jet or military aircraft
And you will never see good quality crimp tools or terminals in any auto parts or modern hardware store.. Only cheap chinese knockoffs which is why I quit using them...
@@KillerNetDog I disagree, claiming that consumer-grade crimp tools from China are incapable of creating quality crimp terminations is like saying cheap soldering irons from China can't make good solder connections. The bottom line is Chinese tools have allowed the average person to do things they otherwise could nevet do it's not like everybody can afford a $2,500 crimper or would be willing to spend it even if they could. You can buy a decent quality Chinese crimper for $50 that is capable of creating reliable terminations rather than $2500 for an American made tool. Your average consumer or do-it-yourselfer doesn't need a $2,500 tool that designed to be used in a production environment 8 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year and guaranteed to last a hundred thousand crimps. As an active ham radio operator and electronics Tech I have an entire tool box full of specialized crimpers. 20 years ago I had no choice but to buy expensive American-made tools and couldn't afford all the specialized tools I needed. China has now made it possible for me to own all the specialized tools I need and they do a more than acceptable job. Some of the crimpers I own might only get used once or twice a year as such I don't need a production environment tool designed to be used in a commercial environment 8 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year and I appreciate having the option of buying a tool more suited my needs. There's this persistent old wives tale that creating crimp terminations is an ultra precise process. Of course this isn't anywhere near close to being true. According to top US crimp termination manufacturers there is quite a bit of latitude in creating a quality reliable crimp termination. All you need to do is download the data sheets from these manufacturers to see that. The real question is how many TH-cam educated do-it-yourselfers actually bother to download data sheets. If they did they know which crimp cavities to use for their connectors. According to Molex it would be very cost ineffective for a manufacturer to design, engineer and manufacturer individual crimp terminations for every possible wire size, wire type and application. Therefore there crimp terminations are designed with quite a bit of latitude to compensate for being used on multiple gauges and multiple types of wire. The biggest issue with creating quality crimp connections is the overwhelming number of misinformed TH-cam videos created by self-professed experts trying to teach people how to make crimp connections. unfortunately the overwhelming majority these TH-cam videos are created by people who don't have a freaking clue as to what they're doing and are teaching people poor techniques. If you want to learn how to properly create a reliable crimp connection then forget about TH-cam head over to Molex or AMPS website and download their crimp connection manual. Or if you're really serious you can download NASA's manual which goes into much more detail. But it's probably overkill for 99% of do-it-yourselfers. So if you're not a subcontractor for NASA then you're probably better off just downloading the Molex manual. The manual will teach you the difference between all the various connectors from tubular ring connectors to brazed open Barrel connectors and the proper crimps to use for each. You will learn more downloading their manual than you will ever learn on TH-cam. As for the hydraulic crimpers that you see on Amazon and eBay, most of the people having trouble with those are attempting to crimp thick-walled brazed seam open Barrel connectors. Those crimpers are not designed for those terminations. They are specifically designed to crimp thin-walled tubular sealed battery lugs. If you are attempting to crimp brazed seam open Barrel connectors onto large gauge wire than you want to use what's known as an indent crimper. The hammer type of crimper is an indent crimper but is not recommended because it create inconsistent results. You want to use a hydraulic or lever actuated indent crimper, temco offers a die less adjustable lever actuated indent crimper that will handle 4 gauge to 4/0 for $55 and terminations it creates Rivals high-dollar production line equipment. As for the old argument between solder or crimp keep in mind that the power company uses crimp connectors on overhead power lines. Power companies use very large high voltage crimp connectors. They use battery powered and hydraulic crimpers. The crimper you see hanging on a linemans utility belt probably cost between $4000 and $5,000. You can buy a Chinese imitation for around $200 that will do just as good a job, it just won't last 100,000 crimps. So the question every do-it-yourselfer needs to ask himself is does he need a very expensive professional tool that he's probably only going to use two or three times a year. Is he buying it because he needs it or because his ego mandates he be seen with expensive name brand equipment. I know people who have a garage full of Snap-on tools and Milwaukee equipment that are there strictly for looks and never get used. There is no shortage of people who think that owning expensive professional tools makes them look like they know what they're doing the sad fact is most of these people shouldn't be allowed on a screwdriver.
Well you do you and I'll do me.. I'm also a ham radio operator, trained electronics tech from all the way back in the vacuum tube days.. Son an electronics tech as well. I know what worked for me, and what I have had to cut out and replace over the decades and I'll not be spending hundreds on tools for my last couple decades on this planet.
Well if we are going start bragging, I'm a retired broadcast Engineers have worked in TV and radio most of my life. I own my own marine Electronics and Avionics business for over 25 years now. When it comes to him radio that license isn't worth the paper it's printed on anymore. One of the most common problems I run into when troubleshooting ham radio stations is defective coaxial connector installations. I would venture a bet that at least 95% of the soldered on pl-259 I see are done improperly. What's sad is vast majority of these people are self-proclaimed experts in installing pl-259 connectors. Unlike most hams I actually have the laboratory grade equipment to test these connectors, from TDRs, hipot testers, Agilent Vector Network analyzer, service monitors.... there is literally over $350,000 worth of Electronics test equipment in my portable Workshop. Which is an 8.5 x 24 trailer.
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Good stuff. FAA prefers aircraft wiring repairs to be made with crimp connectors, partly because it's an easier skill to master than a good soldered joint. If it's good enough for work on aircraft, it's good enough for cars. But as you say, it's imperative to work carefully, using quality materials and the correct tools. I build a lot of custom harnesses for high-end hot-rods, and some of the horrible work I've seen under the dashes of expensive custom builds is just plain scary.
Soldering definitely takes practice and a good soldering iron. I use the benzomatic butane soldering iron. Works great for me. Tips last a lot longer then a lot of electric soldering irons or guns I’ve used.
People crimp because they probably dont know how to solder correctly. Crimping is faster also. Solder is always best. It will always give a positive corision proof connetion. I received solder training at work many years ago. One of the comments the teacher made was that when manufacturing satellites they dont crimp they solder. Soldering is always better in hostile environments. Learn ho to solder correctly and you are golden!
There is a reason they don’t terminate with solder on airplanes and it is not because solder is always best. As demonstrated in the video, soldering creates a brittle joint that will always break off at the base of the terminal. I’d much prefer a bad solder joint over a bad crimp, but when done properly both techniques have their place in various applications.
Yes there is a place for both. For example when terminating to equipment that must be removed for repair. I received training from a manufacturer that builds satellites, they always solder on all connections. You only have one shot to do it right. Proper solder always is best. I have repaired many pieces of electronic gear that the fix was reseating connectors ( gold plated connectors) Crimping is time saving. When done properly (expensive crimping tools) it works well enough. On automobiles I will stick with solder.
@Paul I've gotta say, I question your statement that you received training from a manufacturer that builds satellites and they always solder. I work in the aerospace industry and that's not remotely my experience. Solder on a circuit board or solid core wires? Obviously. But solder a termination on stranded wire? NEVER. There's too much vibration in the launch sequence to risk inherently brittle solder connections. Every satellite maker I've ever seen follows NASA standards which generally calls for solder on solid core wires and crimping on stranded wires. These standards are near universal across the aerospace industry.
I was skeptical at first, but this was very informative. I personally have had better luck with solder, but I guess I also use cheap parts. I'll usually use both for a good connection.
Hi, concise, clear and paced well, thanks. What do you recommend for connecting a motorcycle stranded type wire to an existing wire i.e. a tap-in connection? Thanks
One downside to the butt connectors and crimping on the exterior of the vehicle such as trailer wiring and stuff they really seem to corrode up in the northern states. I recommend soldering in those cases with shrink wrap tubing with adhesive.
A western union splice that is then soldered is described in NASA manuals. The Wiki page on western union splice has the link to the NASA Workmanship Technical Committee page describing the process and applications. This union, when used as specified, is very reliable and easy to do.
@member548 That NASA Workmanship Technical Committee document you described also says the following: "This type of splice is more suited to solid, rather than stranded conductors..." The NASA standards generally call for soldering only on solid core wires and crimping on stranded core wires. Most wires for automative use are stranded core due to the requirement for flexibility, so you crimp them according to NASA-STD-8739.4.
you can use liquid electrical tape under the heat shrink for joints that will get exposed to water, i always put some liquid tape then slip the heat shrink over the join and give it a couple of min before shrinking it down, if you use too much liquid tape you get a bunch ooze out but if you use just the right amount you can get it so it just just starts to be squeezed out but dont ooze everywhere, also the liquid has thinners in it that will flame off a little bit when your heat shrinking if you use a lighter so be ready for that, it wont damage anything (i use a butane soldering iron without the iron its just like a giant jet lighter it shrinks tube real quick and controllable enough that i havent burned any insulation.. mostly :P
I have a question about 3-way connections in injector wiring. Crimp or solder and how to apply heatshrink? I don't see a way to crimp these connections, since usually the wire gauge is different on the power side of the injector wires.
Hey nice video. Doing a car project with mostly 18 gauge wire and a few 16 guage.where i have to decide whether to crimp or solder. I do have a question regarding the crimpers.. i have a irwin automatic wire strippers like the one shown at 0.27 sec in.. It has a part for crimping.. would that be sufficient?
Great video. So when you go to crimp, should a man twist his conductors together before inserting them into the terminal, or should he simply crimp with the conductors pointing straight out, just as they are naturally when stripped from the sheath without twisting them? Thanks
They say that both undercrimping or overcrimping can result in a bad connection. How much force should you put when you crimp a connector if you have a manual crimper?
Quality connections require quality parts, and tools as well. Either solder or crimp connections, when done properly, will be stronger than the conductor.
I like that.. "Do it properly. Leave your wire nuts in your house, your T-taps in the trash can and the twisted tape methods to your competition". Good stuff. Thanks for the info.
Haven't you seen the crimper that hit with a hammer to set it? BTW, where are your hydraulic crimpers... you know, the 10 ton closing force ones with interchangeable dies? My favourite crimper for small lugs and links are a pair of Vicegrip linesmen's pliers with a crimping tool built into the pliers, just behind the pivot. When you are wiring up a switchboard, you don't have time to pick up and use a pair of strippers, put them down and pick up a crimping tool, use it two or three times and put it down and then repeat the whole process all over for every cable coming in to the switchboard. It might get you good marks for the practical exam but you are likely to get a kick in the pants from the boss for being too slow. When soldering lugs on to cables, the solder lug has no inspection point and the easiest and quickest way to solder them on is use a solder pot and liquid rosin based flux. You can't do the subject of crimping or soldering links, lugs or splices justice in 12 minutes.
Any suggestions on a "good" wire stripper - the store bought varieties seem to be almost as bad as a knife - they often cut into the wire instead of simply removing the covering material.
Thank you! can't tell you how often i see soldered on small gauge wire and they say "hasn't failed yet" but they never have the cars for more than just a few years vs a decade or more. Not to say that i have not soldered smaller gauge, but when i do i make sure to apply multiply stages of relief just like you did as solder will create a stress point in the wire that i've seen a few times when soldered then just wrapped in tape. Have yet to solder anything on any clients cars, just my own as a shortcut lol because i will know where it is and know not to stress it as much.
I have a sub and wires and its an 8 gauge wire but a thin little wire on a harness to connect it to the power wire (the 8 gauge) comes with one end for the car battery attached and another end to be attached which is a spade terminal. Can i solder the thin wire to the terminal?
I've always been told the staking, where you press an indent, like you did, is not a strong uniform joint like a proper crimp, which is uniform compression, no punches. Cable lugs are also made to slightly different sizes, on production lines they buy the lugs and tools from the same vendor, so the dimensions are matched. That's how milspec production lines run. Is it bunk? Maybe.
I have to disagree with what he said about crimping opposite from the seem. Crimping opposite from the seem can cause the seem to open up and result in a connection that loosens over time causing problems that can be a nightmare to diagnose. if you look at any Automobile company and likely Holley's own ECU terminals they are crimped the exact opposite of what he said. in fact, the female spade connector that they show in the video at 5:13 is an OE style connector that can only be crimped at the seem.
One thing I have noticed, is that if you are using the hardware store style stripper/crimper tool, the joint can open up. But if you are using the Thomas and Betts Sta-Kon type of crimper, it works great. I can't ever remember a failure of that type when using a Sta Kon type of crimper. The deep saddle and punch design of this tool is superior in this size class of crimper . I wouldn't crimp a joint without them !
Awesome video wish I could like it more than once. What is your opinion on scotch lock connectors? They seem like an good concept but might lack conductivity?
I'd like to beat the person who came up with them with a sack of frozen potatoes. I have had to rewire every single used trailer I have bought because some goober used them to add or "repair" lights and wiring. They cut the wires and introduce a point of failure and water ingress to cause corrosion and failure.
$260 for a basic crimp tool? You could at least include some KY with it. At what point are you taking advantage of your customers just because of your brand name?
therealnightwriter Look up the part number he stated in the video. 567-100 is a Holley branded tool, specifically crimping pliars, that retail for over $250. Yes, Holley sells more than carburetors and fuel injection systems. Also sell superchargers, turbo systems, ignition systems, driveline and transmission components, intake manifolds, headers and exhaust systems, nitrous systems... You really should make sure you know what you're talking about before calling someone stupid, cause you just cemented your stupidity there.
The pricing is high because these are military/aerospace tools. That's a TE Connectivity crimp tool. its about $90 without the jaw. DMC is a huge manufacturer of crimp tools also. It's expensive because of R&D, Quality control etc. They don't want the FAA investigating them if an airplane crashes due to a connection broken/hot etc due to vibration,thermal expansion etc. The DMC crimpers are no joke, they even have calibration tools plus a crimp testing machine. The machine pulls 200lbs from the crimp-wire and they hold up to that. The generic knock-off crimpers work for automotive applications. You don't have billions of $$$ in payload at risk due to a crash. If the connection breaks, pull over; worst case the car catches on fire. Don't expect them to last also, the tolerances and metal used is not great. If its a here and there use, it should work before breaking. No one will judge you since it's hobbyist use. Better yet, get the authentic crimpers used on ebay. Check out TE connectivity, Amphenol, DMCtools; you'll flip once you see how in depth their wire management gets. DMC made in America! They don't use chintzy tools for wiring harnesses on our nuclear missiles ;)
you guys sell bulk wire by chance. looking for some good quality 100' spools for fine braid flexible wire in various gauges 10-22awg to use for wiring my car.
Shrink butts work ok, but I have seen so many crimped with a non insulated crimper. It blows a hole in the side of it rendering shrink tube useless. I like the non insulated ones with shrink tube. I haven't soldered much in a long time. If corrosion has wicked it's way up the wire and it's orange or black, solder won't stick anyway.
Not at all. The lineman and western union splice however where designed for solid wire and not stranded. If you noticed my splice was based on the lineman but I interlaced the strands first instead of overlapping them as a whole, I then twisted them in opposite directions of each other like you would with the lineman.
Yeah, a good crimping tool is $80 and up, even if made in China. I must have tried four crimpers and after all that grief I'll say go with the Knipex. Just be sure you get the right type. There is insulated, non insulated and heat shrink vinyl insulated, with special pliers for each. And don't get me started on Weatherpack etc.
I wish there were more ‘adult education’ classes on subjects like this. I’ve had formal education in the military and in civilian factories. Have seen too much of what appears to be self taught soldering and crimping... scary work out there on boats, cars & rv’s. “Good enuf” really.... isn’t.
Well, a couple of issues relating to soldering. First, 60/40 alloy is close to eutectic. but not quite so. The eutectic composition is 63/37 which has a single melting point rather than a range. The solidification range creates a possibility of moving the parts at the prolonged time when you have various states of the solder co-existing. Do indeed prepare the mechanical connection well before soldering when using anything but true eutectic solder! The second issue, though, is that using tin/lead alloys is either discouraged or outright forbidden due to environmental concerns, with just a few exceptions where no acceptable substitutes exist. Soldering wire connections is not considered to qualify for an exception status in many countries. On the other hand, the tin/silver/copper alloy has much poorer wetting, so you might just give up and use crimping as your first choice.
Was always taught by record holder engine builder to use crimp and solder all connections tires shake can be hell on everything electrical.btw he has seen two tenths better et just by doing a good wiring job with solder all connectors🤷♂️
For me its been based on if I want it to be easy to take apart and how much I’m getting paid. If I’m using crimp butt connectors it’s because I’m not getting paid enough to care. There is a time and a place for crimp connections like when your making $10 an hour or building a harness where you want to be able to take apart or take parts off without cutting wires...
Commercial Aviation Crimping on wires is used exclusively , soldiering is not used for wire repairs or for production splicing , Soldiering used for micro chips for on board computers is used but in protected and controlled environment. Butt splices should be used with shrink tubing. Butt Splices (environmental Splices) called “Ray Chem” the butt splice joint is tin plated for Boeing and nickel plated for Airbus Aircraft with a slip over heavy shrink rap than heated . they are used in Commercial Aircraft in Unpressurized areas that withstand the elements of 35,000 ft 450 knots at below - 50 deg temps. Soldering has its limitation. Look up Ray-Chem on google !
It is so hard to find un-insulated spade connectors, I just buy the insulated ones and pull the plastic off. Its always so bulky and stops the crimper getting s proper bite
When you used the 'helping hands' to hold the insulted part of the wire, it is best NOT to have the teeth biting on the insulation. Get a pair of helping hands and double heat-shrink the teeth.
From an Electronics Technician........ Great video. Most of the time, I watch these "how to" vids for a laugh, the advice provided here was spot on.
Same here. Kudos on this vid.
Same, this was actually great.
I like to use the lineman's (Western Union) splice if possible when I solder though.
FINALLY! I know how to position the seam on the crimp connector. Thank You. I've watched about 50 videos and they all skim over that part.
*There wasn't one thing this guy said that was not valuable. One of the best videos on TH-cam. Thank you.*
Dude giving away all the secrets I learned from Bob Bauder. Wired street rods for him when I was a kid. Spot on sir!
I've learned more useful tips from this video than all the other crimp videos I've watched on TH-cam. Triple thumbs up!!!
"Leave your wire nuts in your house, t-taps in the trash can, and the twist-and-tape method to your competition."
This was a very well executed and informative video on crimping and solder. So much misinformation and 'bad job' how -to's on Yt. Would have been great if expert covered the larger 00-4/0 AWG cables.
its amazing how many people think those t-taps are a good idea to use!
Aren't the use of wire nuts part of NEC (USA) or CEC (CDN) code so you dont have loose conductors in your device box?
@@kylelikeskjvbible Wire nuts are code only for construction wiring that uses thick solid core wires and is never subject to movement and vibration after installation. They're perfect for house wiring - not so much for cars.
@@jeffmaxwell8297 they are only used in north america too, most other places use screw terminals which are more secure
@@haley746 Maybe 40 years ago. Spring terminals are used in houses these days.
One of the best concise tutorials on correct crimping. So many otherwise excellent professionals on youtube spread a lot of bad info on this topic.
that "examples of tools that are not suitable for crimping include... a hammer " was hilarious, if your target audience is going to try to crimp with a hammer your probably gonna need an aftersales team working overtime
the vide is very informative and very well explained. probably one of the best on this topic on youtube. definietly worth the thumbs up
Thanks for the feedback! -Keith
At 2:25, those basic crimp tools that are "not recommended" do have one very valid use, which is for the threaded bolt/machine screw-cutting feature or function, which allows you to shorten the Fastener without totally bugging up the threads at the end where you cut it. It's handy to have one for metric fasteners as well as one for SAE standard fasteners.
I've done video going into details on this on my channel, let me know what you think
Beautiful demonstrations. What a great educator this guy is, reminds me of one of my old trade school teachers. I still use these splicing and soldering techniques taught to me 15 years ago. I've never had a join fail. If splicing into old vehicle wiring that has oxidized through the insulation, I find that fanning the stripped conductors and wiping them a couple of times with some fine steel wool or even just soaking the copper strands with a flux texta will ensure the solder flows perfectly between the old factory wiring and new copper.
Great video! This covers pretty much everything I’ve learned over 20yrs working in installations and electronics manufacturing. The only thing I would add is the addition of a separate flux during soldering, especially for splices, as it ensures good solder flow through the strands. As for the common style crimps, I prefer to crimp on the split as I’ve found it allows for the “V” to bite better into the strands. For marine connections I solder after crimping, making sure to leave a 1/16” backspacing with the insulation before adding meltable wall heat shrink.
V finch
I finally found a used 4 sided crimping tool on eBay that I could justify buying. It was $20 instead of $300. Needed cleaning and oiling but works good. Crimps far better than the one detent type. Great for eye,spade and hook type, but works really well on crimped wire nuts.
James Lucas Sweet. Good tools always make the job so much more enjoyable!
Very good and great info. on wicking the wire. I have watched hundreds of "How to Solder" and this is the only one that explained or even said anything about wicking the wire. Great job Thank You.
It is also important to clean the solder joint before applying the shrink tubing. While still warm, you can use an acid brush and isopropyl alcohol to clean away any excess flux. Flux will draw moisture eventually, even under shrink tubing, and lead to corrosion and failure.
Man this guy is really pleasant to listen to.
Thank you for this excellent video! So hard to find good information on these subjects, especially this much in one place. Not to mention there wasn't any bad or incorrect advice I saw. I now have a new video on the topic of wiring I can add to my small collection of those worth sharing.
Thanks for sharing! Definitely an excellent video!
Thank you, great, down to earth video. Good advice for most people, including me, IMO. What I find most surprising is the dislike rate. At the time I am posting (Nov 5, 2018) this comment, it is 75 dislikes and approximately 1200 likes. So, of those that responded, 6.25% did not like the video. What controversial thing was suggested to bring in a response like that? I didn’t see it. Usually when I find myself posting a dislike, I feel obligated to tell the poster why I feel that way. I had a quick look at the comments and did not see anything substantive there IMO. The suggestion about the alligator clips piercing the insulation seems ridiculous to me. In normal circumstance you apply heat, apply solder, allow penetration and pull back in 2-3 seconds - hardly enough time for the insulation to get warm, let alone soften.
from a former QA for a military subcontractor, Great video!
Maybe the ONLY video that shows the orientation of the crimper tool to the connector.
Good video, I used to solder all my connection for 30 years. I now I do a lot more crimping, it's even faster then letting the iron heat up.
Pro tip: On the "Helping Hands" tool that hold wires for solder, wrap the alligator clips with electrical tape so the teeth won't pierce the insulation.
Jon Ericson Pro pro tip use heat shrink instead. forms to the jaws and looks cleaner imho
Pro pro pro tip use transparent heat shrink. If there's black on there replace. It confuses the hell out of people and you can see muck and grime better.
Finally added heat shrink to my helping hands a few months ago after getting tired of worrying about the teeth sinking into hot insulation.
Pro tip. Jon ericson is not a pro. Lol
yeah i use a bit of paper, cardboard or plastic ;P
crimp if you have it, solder if you dont, crimp might benefit from some dielectric grease to prevent corrosion though, soldering fails on the cable where the solder ends, its much weaker than it was, it fatigues very easily indeed, just as this video shows, spot on dude
Fantastic presentation! I have never seen adhesive-lined heat shrink before! I'll have to keep an eye out for that.
The brand Raychem has a good line of that stuff
I got myself a ratcheting crimper and adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors. Absolutely love it. Looks much more professional and I have more confidence in the connections. Was pretty affordable too!
After buying good crimping tools, I enjoy doing electrical work. Also, using crimps prevents creating the brittle condition from the solder connection. I still solder larger gauge connections, but for 10 gauge and larger, definitely solder. Another key is to choose quality wire. I find that the higher strand count wire works better in general for any purpose.
Got a lot out of your video, great explanation. Thanks a million.
Been crimping wires wrong for ages, wasn't taught properly to begin with and have likely wicked more soldered joints than I care to admit thinking I was doing it properly. Strain relief w/ heat shrink, never even entered my mind. Guess I have a lot more homework to do than I thought!
Oxidation and corrosion are a problem too. I do a version of this for battery cables and exterior elec. connections. I first slide two pcs of heat shrink up the cable (1 1/2" & 3") way up out of the heat. I place copper fitting in a vise vertical. Trim cable to proper length ( bottoming out in fitting). Flux fitting and cable and heat fitting and fill halfway with solder. Heat the cable end and quickly push the cable end into the fitting add more heat if the cable cools off the solder before bottoming in the fitting. I now crimp the cable end as this video shows. After cooling to touch, I coat the fitting and cable with silicone, slide the first length of 1st heat shrink (1 1/2") over the fitting/cable and heat, and watch silicone squeeze out, Next lightly coat the heat shrink and cable again slide the last heat shrink (3') over the cable and heat again watch silicone squeeze out, wipe excess silicone off. I have cable ends and electrical connections on my Semi that have gone through 6 seasons of mud, rain, and snow that are good as the day I did them.
Only the hydraulic crimper can make gas tight like you show at 1:08, metal welded connection. So hand crimper should go to the trash bin. Soldering and proper stress relief (by using heat shrink) from wire should be the only way to go. Soldering is an inconvenience if you work beside conveyor and make equipment to last only warranty time.
Whatever factory crimped connectors have been known to last decades without issues. So much for your only lasts as long as the warranty rant. In the event you want to promote solder why didn't you mention how to do it properly?
@@waswestkan Your right but all factories use hydraulic crimps for a forge welded connection. Otherwise every worker would need extended periods of leave due to strain injuries. Hand crimpers won't create that forged crimp unless it is a very small wire.
Both methods, if done right, are acceptable for use in automotive applications. If I cannot get the right crimp then I use the best crimp tool I have to tighten the connection and then use the smallest dab of solder in the crimp to make a permanent connection. Follow that with shrink tube.
Then you're using shitty hand crimpers, because mine all give excelent connections, and more consistancy than solder.
The only time I have seen a truly reliable crimp connection in a high vibration environment has been done using a hydraulic crimper. I used to make a soldiered western union spice (yes you can do it with stranded but you have to soldier it) but now I just use hydraulic crimpers for everything.
A hand crimper is perfectly capable of applying a ton of force - more than enough for a proper crimp on small cables. If you're not getting proper crimps, it due to something else... Could be the wrong lug or the wrong cable or the wrong crimper or badly designed dies or badly manufactured dies, etc, etc.
A high vibration environment just means you've got to get your specification right - use the right lugs, crimped with the right dies, in the right crimper.
After 40 years of experience I use almost exclusively solder and heat shrink. Less money spent, less tools to buy that you can't find in auto or hardware stores, less connector sizes and types to fiddle with and keep on hand, better overall results in most situations.. I can't remember a single soldered connection of mine that ever failed, but I have had crimp connections fail mostly due to corrosion over time and poor quality crimp connectors.
Not true, A proper crimp connection is a mechanically welded gas tight connection and far less prone to corrosion and work hardening failure then soldered terminations. That's way NASA requires crimp connections on all wire terminations. Solder wire terminations are pretty much banned in the aerospace industry and for good reason. Lets put it this way You'll never see a soldered wire termination on a passenger jet or military aircraft
And you will never see good quality crimp tools or terminals in any auto parts or modern hardware store.. Only cheap chinese knockoffs which is why I quit using them...
@@KillerNetDog I disagree, claiming that consumer-grade crimp tools from China are incapable of creating quality crimp terminations is like saying cheap soldering irons from China can't make good solder connections.
The bottom line is Chinese tools have allowed the average person to do things they otherwise could nevet do it's not like everybody can afford a $2,500 crimper or would be willing to spend it even if they could.
You can buy a decent quality Chinese crimper for $50 that is capable of creating reliable terminations rather than $2500 for an American made tool.
Your average consumer or do-it-yourselfer doesn't need a $2,500 tool that designed to be used in a production environment 8 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year and guaranteed to last a hundred thousand crimps.
As an active ham radio operator and electronics Tech I have an entire tool box full of specialized crimpers. 20 years ago I had no choice but to buy expensive American-made tools and couldn't afford all the specialized tools I needed.
China has now made it possible for me to own all the specialized tools I need and they do a more than acceptable job.
Some of the crimpers I own might only get used once or twice a year as such I don't need a production environment tool designed to be used in a commercial environment 8 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year and I appreciate having the option of buying a tool more suited my needs.
There's this persistent old wives tale that creating crimp terminations is an ultra precise process.
Of course this isn't anywhere near close to being true.
According to top US crimp termination manufacturers there is quite a bit of latitude in creating a quality reliable crimp termination.
All you need to do is download the data sheets from these manufacturers to see that.
The real question is how many TH-cam educated do-it-yourselfers actually bother to download data sheets. If they did they know which crimp cavities to use for their connectors.
According to Molex it would be very cost ineffective for a manufacturer to design, engineer and manufacturer individual crimp terminations for every possible wire size, wire type and application. Therefore there crimp terminations are designed with quite a bit of latitude to compensate for being used on multiple gauges and multiple types of wire.
The biggest issue with creating quality crimp connections is the overwhelming number of misinformed TH-cam videos created by self-professed experts trying to teach people how to make crimp connections.
unfortunately the overwhelming majority these TH-cam videos are created by people who don't have a freaking clue as to what they're doing and are teaching people poor techniques.
If you want to learn how to properly create a reliable crimp connection then forget about TH-cam head over to Molex or AMPS website and download their crimp connection manual. Or if you're really serious you can download NASA's manual which goes into much more detail. But it's probably overkill for 99% of do-it-yourselfers. So if you're not a subcontractor for NASA then you're probably better off just downloading the Molex manual.
The manual will teach you the difference between all the various connectors from tubular ring connectors to brazed open Barrel connectors and the proper crimps to use for each.
You will learn more downloading their manual than you will ever learn on TH-cam.
As for the hydraulic crimpers that you see on Amazon and eBay, most of the people having trouble with those are attempting to crimp thick-walled brazed seam open Barrel connectors.
Those crimpers are not designed for those terminations. They are specifically designed to crimp thin-walled tubular sealed battery lugs.
If you are attempting to crimp brazed seam open Barrel connectors onto large gauge wire than you want to use what's known as an indent crimper.
The hammer type of crimper is an indent crimper but is not recommended because it create inconsistent results.
You want to use a hydraulic or lever actuated indent crimper, temco offers a die less adjustable lever actuated indent crimper that will handle 4 gauge to 4/0 for $55 and terminations it creates Rivals high-dollar production line equipment.
As for the old argument between solder or crimp keep in mind that the power company uses crimp connectors on overhead power lines.
Power companies use very large high voltage crimp connectors. They use battery powered and hydraulic crimpers. The crimper you see hanging on a linemans utility belt probably cost between $4000 and $5,000.
You can buy a Chinese imitation for around $200 that will do just as good a job, it just won't last 100,000 crimps.
So the question every do-it-yourselfer needs to ask himself is does he need a very expensive professional tool that he's probably only going to use two or three times a year. Is he buying it because he needs it or because his ego mandates he be seen with expensive name brand equipment.
I know people who have a garage full of Snap-on tools and Milwaukee equipment that are there strictly for looks and never get used.
There is no shortage of people who think that owning expensive professional tools makes them look like they know what they're doing the sad fact is most of these people shouldn't be allowed on a screwdriver.
Well you do you and I'll do me.. I'm also a ham radio operator, trained electronics tech from all the way back in the vacuum tube days.. Son an electronics tech as well. I know what worked for me, and what I have had to cut out and replace over the decades and I'll not be spending hundreds on tools for my last couple decades on this planet.
Well if we are going start bragging, I'm a retired broadcast Engineers have worked in TV and radio most of my life. I own my own marine Electronics and Avionics business for over 25 years now.
When it comes to him radio that license isn't worth the paper it's printed on anymore.
One of the most common problems I run into when troubleshooting ham radio stations is defective coaxial connector installations.
I would venture a bet that at least 95% of the soldered on pl-259 I see are done improperly.
What's sad is vast majority of these people are self-proclaimed experts in installing pl-259 connectors.
Unlike most hams I actually have the laboratory grade equipment to test these connectors, from TDRs, hipot testers, Agilent Vector Network analyzer, service monitors.... there is literally over $350,000 worth of Electronics test equipment in my portable Workshop. Which is an 8.5 x 24 trailer.
Good stuff. FAA prefers aircraft wiring repairs to be made with crimp connectors, partly because it's an easier skill to master than a good soldered joint. If it's good enough for work on aircraft, it's good enough for cars. But as you say, it's imperative to work carefully, using quality materials and the correct tools. I build a lot of custom harnesses for high-end hot-rods, and some of the horrible work I've seen under the dashes of expensive custom builds is just plain scary.
Plus, solder connections are harder to inspect. I was a Master Technician on A/C systems in the USAF for several years.
@@perrychamp3816 How was the USAF repair work, hard to do?
Soldering definitely takes practice and a good soldering iron. I use the benzomatic butane soldering iron. Works great for me. Tips last a lot longer then a lot of electric soldering irons or guns I’ve used.
Thank you for the tips. I like the solder butt joint and always wondered how to properly use crimps.
So, would you say it's important to use the proper crimping tool?
One word: Professional..
Alpha Omega @@
Don’t fall in love with the word PROFESSIONAL! It only means the labor has to be PAID. Amateur can be more skilled but is not paid.
People crimp because they probably dont know how to solder correctly. Crimping is faster also. Solder is always best. It will always give a positive corision proof connetion. I received solder training at work many years ago. One of the comments the teacher made was that when manufacturing satellites they dont crimp they solder. Soldering is always better in hostile environments. Learn ho to solder correctly and you are golden!
There is a reason they don’t terminate with solder on airplanes and it is not because solder is always best. As demonstrated in the video, soldering creates a brittle joint that will always break off at the base of the terminal. I’d much prefer a bad solder joint over a bad crimp, but when done properly both techniques have their place in various applications.
Yes there is a place for both. For example when terminating to equipment that must be removed for repair. I received training from a manufacturer that builds satellites, they always solder on all connections. You only have one shot to do it right. Proper solder always is best. I have repaired many pieces of electronic gear that the fix was reseating connectors ( gold plated connectors) Crimping is time saving. When done properly (expensive crimping tools) it works well enough. On automobiles I will stick with solder.
No solder is not always best... Plain and simple.
@Paul I've gotta say, I question your statement that you received training from a manufacturer that builds satellites and they always solder. I work in the aerospace industry and that's not remotely my experience. Solder on a circuit board or solid core wires? Obviously. But solder a termination on stranded wire? NEVER. There's too much vibration in the launch sequence to risk inherently brittle solder connections. Every satellite maker I've ever seen follows NASA standards which generally calls for solder on solid core wires and crimping on stranded wires. These standards are near universal across the aerospace industry.
Your teacher is wrong
I was skeptical at first, but this was very informative. I personally have had better luck with solder, but I guess I also use cheap parts. I'll usually use both for a good connection.
8:00 I like to use heat clips also to stop the heating of the insulation.
Hi, concise, clear and paced well, thanks. What do you recommend for connecting a motorcycle stranded type wire to an existing wire i.e. a tap-in connection? Thanks
Really great video 👍🏼
One downside to the butt connectors and crimping on the exterior of the vehicle such as trailer wiring and stuff they really seem to corrode up in the northern states. I recommend soldering in those cases with shrink wrap tubing with adhesive.
Question do you recomend to crimp only multi strand wire or also works well for solid cable?
A western union splice that is then soldered is described in NASA manuals. The Wiki page on western union splice has the link to the NASA Workmanship Technical Committee page describing the process and applications. This union, when used as specified, is very reliable and easy to do.
@member548 That NASA Workmanship Technical Committee document you described also says the following: "This type of splice is more suited to solid, rather than stranded conductors..." The NASA standards generally call for soldering only on solid core wires and crimping on stranded core wires. Most wires for automative use are stranded core due to the requirement for flexibility, so you crimp them according to NASA-STD-8739.4.
thanks a lot for the technical information...thumbs up on the video
I put dielectric grease on the exposed wire before putting on the heat shrink, that way if water gets it, it wont short out.
dielectric grease is unnecessary if you have heatshrink with glue built in.
you can use liquid electrical tape under the heat shrink for joints that will get exposed to water, i always put some liquid tape then slip the heat shrink over the join and give it a couple of min before shrinking it down, if you use too much liquid tape you get a bunch ooze out but if you use just the right amount you can get it so it just just starts to be squeezed out but dont ooze everywhere, also the liquid has thinners in it that will flame off a little bit when your heat shrinking if you use a lighter so be ready for that, it wont damage anything (i use a butane soldering iron without the iron its just like a giant jet lighter it shrinks tube real quick and controllable enough that i havent burned any insulation.. mostly :P
This was a fantastic video, thank you very much
I have a question about 3-way connections in injector wiring. Crimp or solder and how to apply heatshrink? I don't see a way to crimp these connections, since usually the wire gauge is different on the power side of the injector wires.
Hey nice video. Doing a car project with mostly 18 gauge wire and a few 16 guage.where i have to decide whether to crimp or solder. I do have a question regarding the crimpers.. i have a irwin automatic wire strippers like the one shown at 0.27 sec in.. It has a part for crimping.. would that be sufficient?
By definition, a crimp can not be a weld because a weld involves heat and the melting of metal.
Great video. So when you go to crimp, should a man twist his conductors together before inserting them into the terminal, or should he simply crimp with the conductors pointing straight out, just as they are naturally when stripped from the sheath without twisting them?
Thanks
Leave the wires in their natural state. Twisting the wire puts stress at the crimp point leading to earlier fatigue failure.
Does solder go bad? Plus why can but connects burn...??
Hi, for chasis speakon connector what are you suggesting? Do solder better than crimping?
Great vid mate, very informative
They say that both undercrimping or overcrimping can result in a bad connection. How much force should you put when you crimp a connector if you have a manual crimper?
For cooper terminal battery 4awg, you crimp or you crimp and solder? Thanks
Great vid. Thank you. Nice to see someone that know what they are talking about!
Excellent info AND presentation.
Very good video of proper techniques and applications.
Hello. I always have preferred soldering. Sometimes the connectors are poor quality and problems appear.
Quality connections require quality parts, and tools as well. Either solder or crimp connections, when done properly, will be stronger than the conductor.
I like that.. "Do it properly. Leave your wire nuts in your house, your T-taps in the trash can and the twisted tape methods to your competition". Good stuff. Thanks for the info.
Haven't you seen the crimper that hit with a hammer to set it? BTW, where are your hydraulic crimpers... you know, the 10 ton closing force ones with interchangeable dies? My favourite crimper for small lugs and links are a pair of Vicegrip linesmen's pliers with a crimping tool built into the pliers, just behind the pivot. When you are wiring up a switchboard, you don't have time to pick up and use a pair of strippers, put them down and pick up a crimping tool, use it two or three times and put it down and then repeat the whole process all over for every cable coming in to the switchboard. It might get you good marks for the practical exam but you are likely to get a kick in the pants from the boss for being too slow. When soldering lugs on to cables, the solder lug has no inspection point and the easiest and quickest way to solder them on is use a solder pot and liquid rosin based flux. You can't do the subject of crimping or soldering links, lugs or splices justice in 12 minutes.
I agree, really informative & straight forward. Nice one Thanks.
Any suggestions on a "good" wire stripper - the store bought varieties seem to be almost as bad as a knife - they often cut into the wire instead of simply removing the covering material.
Roy Ireland Irwin vise grip automatic strippers.
Thank you! can't tell you how often i see soldered on small gauge wire and they say "hasn't failed yet" but they never have the cars for more than just a few years vs a decade or more. Not to say that i have not soldered smaller gauge, but when i do i make sure to apply multiply stages of relief just like you did as solder will create a stress point in the wire that i've seen a few times when soldered then just wrapped in tape. Have yet to solder anything on any clients cars, just my own as a shortcut lol because i will know where it is and know not to stress it as much.
great vid. well done
I have a sub and wires and its an 8 gauge wire but a thin little wire on a harness to connect it to the power wire (the 8 gauge) comes with one end for the car battery attached and another end to be attached which is a spade terminal. Can i solder the thin wire to the terminal?
I've always been told the staking, where you press an indent, like you did, is not a strong uniform joint like a proper crimp, which is uniform compression, no punches. Cable lugs are also made to slightly different sizes, on production lines they buy the lugs and tools from the same vendor, so the dimensions are matched. That's how milspec production lines run. Is it bunk? Maybe.
What is the proper temperature?
I have to disagree with what he said about crimping opposite from the seem. Crimping opposite from the seem can cause the seem to open up and result in a connection that loosens over time causing problems that can be a nightmare to diagnose. if you look at any Automobile company and likely Holley's own ECU terminals they are crimped the exact opposite of what he said. in fact, the female spade connector that they show in the video at 5:13 is an OE style connector that can only be crimped at the seem.
That’s a different style of crimp, it’s called a open barrel crimp, vs the closed barrel type he demonstrated crimping.
@@J-Eagan I understand that, but my reasoning remains the same.
One thing I have noticed, is that if you are using the hardware store style stripper/crimper tool, the joint can open up.
But if you are using the Thomas and Betts Sta-Kon type of crimper, it works great.
I can't ever remember a failure of that type when using a Sta Kon type of crimper. The deep saddle and punch design of this tool is superior in this size class of crimper . I wouldn't crimp a joint without them !
Great video! Very informative and well thought out.
How about using turpentine for soldering wires?
Love this guy, wish he was my uncle
At 7:48 you say to apply soldier to the tip of the gun and at min
I admit I skipped around a bit but did this video actually address 'when' to crimp vs solder? If so I must have missed that.
NBinA, it's under 12 minutes. Just watch it.
Awesome video wish I could like it more than once. What is your opinion on scotch lock connectors? They seem like an good concept but might lack conductivity?
Scotch Locks are garbage... you might as well just cut the wire in two. At least then you will know what the problem is when the circuit doesn’t work.
I'd like to beat the person who came up with them with a sack of frozen potatoes. I have had to rewire every single used trailer I have bought because some goober used them to add or "repair" lights and wiring. They cut the wires and introduce a point of failure and water ingress to cause corrosion and failure.
$260 for a basic crimp tool? You could at least include some KY with it. At what point are you taking advantage of your customers just because of your brand name?
therealnightwriter Look up the part number he stated in the video. 567-100 is a Holley branded tool, specifically crimping pliars, that retail for over $250. Yes, Holley sells more than carburetors and fuel injection systems. Also sell superchargers, turbo systems, ignition systems, driveline and transmission components, intake manifolds, headers and exhaust systems, nitrous systems... You really should make sure you know what you're talking about before calling someone stupid, cause you just cemented your stupidity there.
@@im1469 yes I just looked it up myself and they are selling them for $257 That's just ridiculous for crimpers
dude they sell ecu s, ecu s have connectors so you need some crimping tools
@@nasimovy-video yeah but would you spend $260 on something worth $20
The pricing is high because these are military/aerospace tools. That's a TE Connectivity crimp tool. its about $90 without the jaw. DMC is a huge manufacturer of crimp tools also. It's expensive because of R&D, Quality control etc. They don't want the FAA investigating them if an airplane crashes due to a connection broken/hot etc due to vibration,thermal expansion etc. The DMC crimpers are no joke, they even have calibration tools plus a crimp testing machine. The machine pulls 200lbs from the crimp-wire and they hold up to that.
The generic knock-off crimpers work for automotive applications. You don't have billions of $$$ in payload at risk due to a crash. If the connection breaks, pull over; worst case the car catches on fire. Don't expect them to last also, the tolerances and metal used is not great. If its a here and there use, it should work before breaking. No one will judge you since it's hobbyist use. Better yet, get the authentic crimpers used on ebay.
Check out TE connectivity, Amphenol, DMCtools; you'll flip once you see how in depth their wire management gets.
DMC made in America!
They don't use chintzy tools for wiring harnesses on our nuclear missiles ;)
My main concern on replacing the wiring harness on my 1969 C-10.
The best explanation
Great tips! An excellent video.
WHAT WAS THE LAST YEAR BLUEBIRD MADE THE WANDERLODGE
you guys sell bulk wire by chance. looking for some good quality 100' spools for fine braid flexible wire in various gauges 10-22awg to use for wiring my car.
Sorry, we do not!
Ok so what's the conductivity of the solder? Or does it even matter?
im confused about why you did not use rosin paste flux. every other video i saw used it... is it not necessary ?
Maybe he used rosin core solder. Negates the need for additional flux.
Tomski McDougle oh ok.... thanks
Shrink butts work ok, but I have seen so many crimped with a non insulated crimper. It blows a hole in the side of it rendering shrink tube useless. I like the non insulated ones with shrink tube. I haven't soldered much in a long time. If corrosion has wicked it's way up the wire and it's orange or black, solder won't stick anyway.
I use a lineman splice when joining wires for soldering, is this bad?
Not at all. The lineman and western union splice however where designed for solid wire and not stranded. If you noticed my splice was based on the lineman but I interlaced the strands first instead of overlapping them as a whole, I then twisted them in opposite directions of each other like you would with the lineman.
Best wiring video on TH-cam, and I've watched a few.
Great Video. Really helpful.
2020 Update. For ease of use in non critical applications, these new 'solder seal' connectors are real quick and easy
thank you so much for this very detailed video!
Good information, it is spot on.
Excellent! Thank you sir!
Yeah, a good crimping tool is $80 and up, even if made in China. I must have tried four crimpers and after all that grief I'll say go with the Knipex. Just be sure you get the right type. There is insulated, non insulated and heat shrink vinyl insulated, with special pliers for each. And don't get me started on Weatherpack etc.
I wish there were more ‘adult education’ classes on subjects like this. I’ve had formal education in the military and in civilian factories. Have seen too much of what appears to be self taught soldering and crimping... scary work out there on boats, cars & rv’s. “Good enuf” really.... isn’t.
If you hold up a black tool against a black shirt, in the middle of a wide-angle shot from across the room, you may as well not hold it up at all.
Great video. Thanks for the information!
Thank you for a very informative video.
Well, a couple of issues relating to soldering. First, 60/40 alloy is close to eutectic. but not quite so. The eutectic composition is 63/37 which has a single melting point rather than a range. The solidification range creates a possibility of moving the parts at the prolonged time when you have various states of the solder co-existing. Do indeed prepare the mechanical connection well before soldering when using anything but true eutectic solder! The second issue, though, is that using tin/lead alloys is either discouraged or outright forbidden due to environmental concerns, with just a few exceptions where no acceptable substitutes exist. Soldering wire connections is not considered to qualify for an exception status in many countries. On the other hand, the tin/silver/copper alloy has much poorer wetting, so you might just give up and use crimping as your first choice.
Was always taught by record holder engine builder to use crimp and solder all connections tires shake can be hell on everything electrical.btw he has seen two tenths better et just by doing a good wiring job with solder all connectors🤷♂️
Finggers Maggee &&
Race cars are expendable. Does not apply here.
Crimp first then solder because I have seen where soldered only has gotten hot enough and the wire fell out...
For me its been based on if I want it to be easy to take apart and how much I’m getting paid. If I’m using crimp butt connectors it’s because I’m not getting paid enough to care. There is a time and a place for crimp connections like when your making $10 an hour or building a harness where you want to be able to take apart or take parts off without cutting wires...
Commercial Aviation Crimping on wires is used exclusively , soldiering is not used for wire repairs or for production splicing , Soldiering used for micro chips for on board computers is used but in protected and controlled environment. Butt splices should be used with shrink tubing. Butt Splices (environmental Splices) called “Ray Chem” the butt splice joint is tin plated for Boeing and nickel plated for Airbus Aircraft with a slip over heavy shrink rap than heated . they are used in Commercial Aircraft in Unpressurized areas that withstand the elements of 35,000 ft 450 knots at below - 50 deg temps. Soldering has its limitation. Look up Ray-Chem on google !
It is so hard to find un-insulated spade connectors, I just buy the insulated ones and pull the plastic off. Its always so bulky and stops the crimper getting s proper bite
Thank you, very informative
When you used the 'helping hands' to hold the insulted part of the wire, it is best NOT to have the teeth biting on the insulation. Get a pair of helping hands and double heat-shrink the teeth.