Hi Alex! wow so good to know! I don't recall my 67 Gt having that switch on the distribution block. Will have to double check that ASAP. Maybe that is why my braking seems to be so poor after rebuliding the rear drum brakes wheel cylinders, lines etc , and new calipers and pads on the front with all new brake lines. Thank you for sharing!!!
You're very welcome. You would probably know if you had an issue, you would probably know. That shuttle valve blocks fluid flow if it shifts so you wouldn't be able to bleed half of your brakes.
Working on a 68 coup that was originally a 6. Put an 8 in it. Been sitting in garage for 30 years. Has 65 v8 drum brakes and rear diff. in it. BW T10. I have the exact problem with the brakes and waiting on the tool to fix the problem. Used nicopp for brake lines. Changed oil and plugs. Put Kroll and atf in cylinders. Engine turns over and 80 psi oil pressure. Work in progress. Thanks for the info. will save alot of frustration.
You're very welcome. Sounds like an awesome project. But just to add, the tool won't fix the problem if the shuttle valve has shifted. Its just supposed to prevent the shuttle valve from shifting.
Hi Alf, i messed up. I broke a rod bolt on my 289 when I was inspecting a bearing. when I went to put it back I over torqued it. my question is how do I take out the bolt to replace it? can I hammer or vice it out or do I have to take it to the machine shop?
Alf, so I have already changed the brake fluid without using the tool, now I have a brake light on the console. How can I fix this issue now? My understanding is that the tool need to be used before changing the brake fluid or did I missed something?
Correct. The tool should have been installed before any sort of brake bleeding to prevent that shuttle valve from shifting. This will be tricky to correct. You're going to want to watch Danny's video on this subject because I have not had the opportunity to correct one of these yet. th-cam.com/video/g63mP4HwVEQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=S_G8uiBvEHQtJ5ad I hope that helps and good luck!
Your channel has been an absolute god send. I wish I had found it so much sooner, since you have videos on damn near every project I've ever struggled on. Was wondering if you have ever done the 8.8 diff conversion before or if you had any thoughts on it? My 347 popped my 8in, and saving money over a 9in is very tempting
Thank you! I have never done the 8.8 swap. I am a huge fan of the 9" though. Have you called Quick Performance? They are my go to people for differential swap and/or components.
Well at the very least you're going to have to remove it from the car. NPD sells rebuild kits but it can be tricky to get the old shuttle valve out. They tend to get stuck from old age. There are some videos out there but I haven't done one. Worst case, you're buying a new distribution block.
This is great! Hopefully you respond, but what do you do if you already tried to bleed the system before knowing this, and the shuttle has shifted, preventing fluid from going to the rear? I have the tool now, but I had no knowledge of this when I tried the first time. How can I get the shuttle valve back to center?
So these can be tricky. There are rebuild kits on National Parts Depot. I have attempted this but most of the ones we see are too gummed up to be disassembled and fixed. In most cases we have had to end up replacing the distribution block. However, I would watch this video first and see if that helps. th-cam.com/video/g63mP4HwVEQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4sgZTiaDWriqxG1z You can always try and if unsuccessful, you unfortunately have to replace the block.
Thank you so much for the response. I watched the video and will give it a shot. I don’t mind if I have to replace the block. Whatever it takes to get it fixed, I’m on board with 👍
Hello, what kind of brake booster did you install in the Mustang? Is this a 9 inch universal brake booster? I love your channel, keep it up. Kind regards, Sebastian from Germany
We did install the 9" brake booster. I'm not sure if its considered the "universal" but it is a direct fit for a 68 Mustang. Thanks for watching the channel! Here is a link to the booster we used. amzn.to/47d7ZQV
Well if you're lucky you can use a very small pick tool to get it to slide back over. There are some videos out there that demonstrate this. If you can't get it to shift back over, you're replacing that distribution block.
If the pin does shift how does one recenter the pin so the fluid flows evenly
Good thing to know, so happy you share little oddball things like this!
It's the little things that we often struggle with. Thank you!
Pro tip right there sir! Solved our pesky brake light issue- appreciate all your tips and solutions!
You're very welcome! I was wondering if you had replaced that sensor yet.
Best advice anyone could have posted!!!!!!
Thank you! Sometimes we forget about the little things!
Hi Alex! wow so good to know! I don't recall my 67 Gt having that switch on the distribution block. Will have to double check that ASAP. Maybe that is why my braking seems to be so poor after rebuliding the rear drum brakes wheel cylinders, lines etc , and new calipers and pads on the front with all new brake lines. Thank you for sharing!!!
You're very welcome. You would probably know if you had an issue, you would probably know. That shuttle valve blocks fluid flow if it shifts so you wouldn't be able to bleed half of your brakes.
@@AlfsMustangGaragedo you know any (ford) master cylinder with this system on it? My car had this system but was disabled 😢
Working on a 68 coup that was originally a 6. Put an 8 in it. Been sitting in garage for 30 years. Has 65 v8 drum brakes and rear diff. in it. BW T10. I have the exact problem with the brakes and waiting on the tool to fix the problem. Used nicopp for brake lines. Changed oil and plugs. Put Kroll and atf in cylinders. Engine turns over and 80 psi oil pressure. Work in progress. Thanks for the info. will save alot of frustration.
You're very welcome. Sounds like an awesome project. But just to add, the tool won't fix the problem if the shuttle valve has shifted. Its just supposed to prevent the shuttle valve from shifting.
Great video thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Alf, just wanted to say thanks for this important tip.
You're very welcome!
Hi Alf, i messed up. I broke a rod bolt on my 289 when I was inspecting a bearing. when I went to put it back I over torqued it. my question is how do I take out the bolt to replace it? can I hammer or vice it out or do I have to take it to the machine shop?
My recommendation would be to take it to the machine shop and let them press on a new one.
Very helpful thank you!
You're very welcome
Alf, so I have already changed the brake fluid without using the tool, now I have a brake light on the console. How can I fix this issue now?
My understanding is that the tool need to be used before changing the brake fluid or did I missed something?
Correct. The tool should have been installed before any sort of brake bleeding to prevent that shuttle valve from shifting. This will be tricky to correct. You're going to want to watch Danny's video on this subject because I have not had the opportunity to correct one of these yet. th-cam.com/video/g63mP4HwVEQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=S_G8uiBvEHQtJ5ad
I hope that helps and good luck!
Thanks Alf@@AlfsMustangGarage
Your channel has been an absolute god send. I wish I had found it so much sooner, since you have videos on damn near every project I've ever struggled on.
Was wondering if you have ever done the 8.8 diff conversion before or if you had any thoughts on it? My 347 popped my 8in, and saving money over a 9in is very tempting
Thank you! I have never done the 8.8 swap. I am a huge fan of the 9" though. Have you called Quick Performance? They are my go to people for differential swap and/or components.
So how would i reset the shuttle if i didn’t know about this before i bled the brakes and now the brake warning light will not go off?
Well at the very least you're going to have to remove it from the car. NPD sells rebuild kits but it can be tricky to get the old shuttle valve out. They tend to get stuck from old age. There are some videos out there but I haven't done one. Worst case, you're buying a new distribution block.
This is great! Hopefully you respond, but what do you do if you already tried to bleed the system before knowing this, and the shuttle has shifted, preventing fluid from going to the rear? I have the tool now, but I had no knowledge of this when I tried the first time. How can I get the shuttle valve back to center?
So these can be tricky. There are rebuild kits on National Parts Depot. I have attempted this but most of the ones we see are too gummed up to be disassembled and fixed. In most cases we have had to end up replacing the distribution block. However, I would watch this video first and see if that helps. th-cam.com/video/g63mP4HwVEQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4sgZTiaDWriqxG1z
You can always try and if unsuccessful, you unfortunately have to replace the block.
Thank you so much for the response. I watched the video and will give it a shot. I don’t mind if I have to replace the block. Whatever it takes to get it fixed, I’m on board with 👍
Good luck, keep me posted. I'm genuinely curious on how it goes for ya!
Hello, what kind of brake booster did you install in the Mustang? Is this a 9 inch universal brake booster? I love your channel, keep it up. Kind regards, Sebastian from Germany
We did install the 9" brake booster. I'm not sure if its considered the "universal" but it is a direct fit for a 68 Mustang. Thanks for watching the channel! Here is a link to the booster we used.
amzn.to/47d7ZQV
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank you very much for the quick response and information.
Best regards
So what do you do if the shuttle valve did shift? How do we fix that?
Well if you're lucky you can use a very small pick tool to get it to slide back over. There are some videos out there that demonstrate this. If you can't get it to shift back over, you're replacing that distribution block.
@@AlfsMustangGarage nothing is ever just easy is it? Lol
Question. Is it possible to bleed the brakes as well with the sensor still in the block? Thanks.
Yes, it's just risky.