This happened to me about ten years ago. A friend & i went to home depot bought a piece of metal. Cut a square hole with a grinder and bolted it to the firewall. It still works today
that is what I'm thinking of doing. It gets 40 below here plastic snaps so easy in that cold. How did you fit it over the wider part? I'm struggling to figure that out.
@@christopherw4527 I recently bought a Dorman replacement on Amazon 40$ with metal insert over that plastic When we did the square hole we left the surrounding metal a triangle shape and drilled 3 holes thru the firewall to hold it
I was able to get mine out the same way. O'Reilly's sells one with a metal insert should prevent problem. Also when i installed mine i put the pedal lever in after installing the housing. Just push in on both sides the lever pops out. Made installation much easier. Thank you for the video!! Would have been lost without it!!
Thanks for the video I was hoping it was possible to swap without having to disassemble most of dash, previous google searches scared me a little. Mine broke on me today, luckily i had some wire in the truck and made a jumper for the clutch safty so i could start it and float gears to make it home, just haave to wait on parts to come in now since no one locally stocks any clutch related parts for these trucks.
It does look like an easy fix, but stranded at the office with no tools to disassemble and no way to move the truck it's gonna be fun 😂😂😂😂. Great video, I'll get hands on !!!
Thanks for the video. Does the master cylinder lock into place at all on the new pedal assembly? The one on my son's truck keeps coming off when the clutch pedal is pressed. We turn it into place just as you showed but it seems to keep turning clockwise with each clutch press until it finally slips out of the fitting and the clutch pedal goes to the floor with no tension. There has to be something we are missing with the installation. Thanks!
I just had to deal with this same problem. Instead of replacing the bracket, I bolted them together. I used 2 - 1/4"x4""J"-bolts. I drilled 2 holes through both the master cylinder flange and the clutch pedal bracket. I pushed the bolts with the "J" portion (inside the cab) through into the engine compartment and double-nutted them. It holds the master cylinder in place and doesn't require any disassembly. The location of the drilled holes is critical, just be sure to not hit the rectangular module that the sensor plugs into.
Im impressed someone who thinks out of the box. I’m going to put it on my truck when i replace the master cylinder. I put a heavy duty clutch in so it’ll probably improve it’s hold. Thank you for your time.
The pedal itself LOOKS LIKE it is attached with nuts and pivots on a bolt, but they are fake nuts and are held in by spring pressure. You can use your fingers and push the nuts in, and release the pedal from the mount to make install easier.
Thanks for the video! These 5 speed cat-eyes are getting pretty scarce and some of the parts hard to come by. Someone tried stealing mine and broke the steering column housing near the ignition- which is an impossible part to find without the column shifter hole. Ended up buying an OEM master cylinder before I realized it was the pedal assembly that had busted. Non-returnable part that was more expensive than the pedal... but at least I have a backup lol
Yeah I’ve done this 5-6 times on my sons truck. Someone had put a heavy duty clutch in it which increased the pressure on the pedal and the bracket, real shit design. Then my nephew had it and it broke on him. This time I only bought the 1 piece that broke and had a metal insert made by Dorman. Should be good for a while. The noise I believe is coming from the two spring tabs that connect to the pedal. Good video , thanks.
I have a 2004 Silverado 2 wd. I've been a Chevy guy since the 60's. There is so much phony garbage with this truck I'll never buy another one. My clutch master cylinder got air in it. No way to bleed it out. No bleeder at the tranny to bleed the slave cylinder. Pull the trans to change the slave cylinder. Once again I'd really like to meet the jerks who designed this POS and sucker punch them.
Just finished doing this. There is a pressed sheet metal lined barrel replacement available on Amazon. Works, had to pull the insulating foam off the barrel though. -The bracket barrel will go through the firewall. As you look at it from teh engine bay use a flat blade and put it at the 10:00 between the barrel and firewall. Pry it toward 4:00 and into the car. I had to cut the barrel off the original unit using a dremel with a cut off wheel. i cut frpm the FW side with the dream inside the barrel cutting out. -from the inside the barrel has to go to the left down and then right. its a thing. -I had to remove the foam form the barrel in order for the pedal mount to go forward enough for the tabs on the top to allow it to seat then the bolt holes aligned like magic. the Pedal msut be on the bracket when you install it. I could not get the pedal to mount ot the bracket while it was installed. -i could not get the master cylinder to align. I had the GF pull lightly on the clutch pedal to pull it in while I aligned it.. This process sucked, hope this and the video helps. If I had to do it again i could do it in an hour.
My 02 silverado has starting issues. The clutch safety switch slides up and down the clutch rod easily. Is it supposed to slide away from the firewall towards the driver seat just by pushing with a finger? Or is it supposed to be fixed to the pedal assy?
Thanks, this really helped me get this job done, especially your showing the angle you figured out. I still had to disconnect the electrical box in the area to get it out of the way, but that's just a couple of nuts.
can you take off and put on the clutch foot lever onto that doorman bracket too? The doorman part doesnt show the actrual pedal on their part. Thanks for the tip above too.
Eaisiest way to get it out it to disconnect the break pedal from the push rod. Then snap the clutch pedal in half. This makes it way eaiser to take off. Not very hard to break it
Very good system by the American builders, complite plastic to be damaged and get stranded in the streets, 💩 pooped system, thanks to American builders.
Pull the unit the following way and in this order. Pull screws - unplug all connectors from power distribution block - remove power distribution block by depressing the two white tabs on either side at the top then rotating the top towards you while sliding the whole thing upwards (its very easy) - *Now for the pedal assembly* pull back while aiming the rear of the bracket up (towards steering wheel kinda) - once the round portion of the assembly in out of the fire wall point the rear left towards your drivers side mirror while pulling and rotating the round male portion down to about the 4 o clock position - after this you simply have to work it out between the brake pedal arm and the right bracket that held in the power distribution block. The trick is two orientate it the right way at the start when pulling it from the firewall. If you do this wrong, that's the ball game. I had mine out in 3 minutes. I spent more time taking the bolts out. Now to make the install so much easier then all these videos make it look. Separate the pedal from your bracket. This is also super easy. On your new assembly there will be two hex looking things, one on either side. It will look like you could put a hex wrench in there. Take a sharpened pencil or anything laying tapered laying around and press it in. While its in, pull the pedal to when lock that in by wedging it against the inside of the bracket assembly and remove the pencil. Then repeat for the other side, pull your pencil out and the pedal will slide right out of the bracket assembly. Now, go bolt that bad boy in and in minutes cram the pedal up in the diagonally and rotate it and the rotational force will press the sides in. Toy with it until you hear them pop in and your done. Reconnect your safety lock out switch on the master cylinder if you disconnected it and replace and re connect the distribution block. Congrats you're done.
This happened to me about ten years ago. A friend & i went to home depot bought a piece of metal. Cut a square hole with a grinder and bolted it to the firewall. It still works today
that is what I'm thinking of doing. It gets 40 below here plastic snaps so easy in that cold. How did you fit it over the wider part? I'm struggling to figure that out.
@@christopherw4527 I recently bought a Dorman replacement on Amazon 40$ with metal insert over that plastic
When we did the square hole we left the surrounding metal a triangle shape and drilled 3 holes thru the firewall to hold it
I was able to get mine out the same way. O'Reilly's sells one with a metal insert should prevent problem. Also when i installed mine i put the pedal lever in after installing the housing. Just push in on both sides the lever pops out. Made installation much easier. Thank you for the video!! Would have been lost without it!!
Thanks for the video I was hoping it was possible to swap without having to disassemble most of dash, previous google searches scared me a little. Mine broke on me today, luckily i had some wire in the truck and made a jumper for the clutch safty so i could start it and float gears to make it home, just haave to wait on parts to come in now since no one locally stocks any clutch related parts for these trucks.
Thank you!! 30mn and done the first video I watched had complete dash removal!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Wish I'd seen this first. I've got a pile of screws n bolts because I watched the other video myself. Gonna try this n see how it goes.
@@joehaney5186 I was done in 20 mins I did have to move the distribution block outta the way good luck!
It does look like an easy fix, but stranded at the office with no tools to disassemble and no way to move the truck it's gonna be fun 😂😂😂😂. Great video, I'll get hands on !!!
Thanks for the video. Does the master cylinder lock into place at all on the new pedal assembly? The one on my son's truck keeps coming off when the clutch pedal is pressed. We turn it into place just as you showed but it seems to keep turning clockwise with each clutch press until it finally slips out of the fitting and the clutch pedal goes to the floor with no tension. There has to be something we are missing with the installation. Thanks!
I just had to deal with this same problem. Instead of replacing the bracket, I bolted them together. I used 2 - 1/4"x4""J"-bolts. I drilled 2 holes through both the master cylinder flange and the clutch pedal bracket. I pushed the bolts with the "J" portion (inside the cab) through into the engine compartment and double-nutted them. It holds the master cylinder in place and doesn't require any disassembly. The location of the drilled holes is critical, just be sure to not hit the rectangular module that the sensor plugs into.
Im impressed someone who thinks out of the box. I’m going to put it on my truck when i replace the master cylinder. I put a heavy duty clutch in so it’ll probably improve it’s hold. Thank you for your time.
The pedal itself LOOKS LIKE it is attached with nuts and pivots on a bolt, but they are fake nuts and are held in by spring pressure. You can use your fingers and push the nuts in, and release the pedal from the mount to make install easier.
Thank you for this video! I did it the same way you did! It was a pain in and out but I'm happy I didn't mess with the master cylinder!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video! These 5 speed cat-eyes are getting pretty scarce and some of the parts hard to come by. Someone tried stealing mine and broke the steering column housing near the ignition- which is an impossible part to find without the column shifter hole.
Ended up buying an OEM master cylinder before I realized it was the pedal assembly that had busted. Non-returnable part that was more expensive than the pedal... but at least I have a backup lol
Look at the early mid 2000 trailblazer they have the same steering column bezels
Yeah I’ve done this 5-6 times on my sons truck. Someone had put a heavy duty clutch in it which increased the pressure on the pedal and the bracket, real shit design. Then my nephew had it and it broke on him. This time I only bought the 1 piece that broke and had a metal insert made by Dorman. Should be good for a while. The noise I believe is coming from the two spring tabs that connect to the pedal. Good video , thanks.
Its a little pricey but a company called Atomic Fab makes one all out of metal which will last forever
I have a 2004 Silverado 2 wd. I've been a Chevy guy since the 60's. There is so much phony garbage with this truck I'll never buy another one. My clutch master cylinder got air in it. No way to bleed it out. No bleeder at the tranny to bleed the slave cylinder. Pull the trans to change the slave cylinder. Once again I'd really like to meet the jerks who designed this POS and sucker punch them.
Best video on this topic.
Hey, thanks a lot.
Hey do yk if the pedal itself can be removed from the old bracket and put on a new bracket
Just finished doing this.
There is a pressed sheet metal lined barrel replacement available on Amazon. Works, had to pull the insulating foam off the barrel though.
-The bracket barrel will go through the firewall. As you look at it from teh engine bay use a flat blade and put it at the 10:00 between the barrel and firewall. Pry it toward 4:00 and into the car. I had to cut the barrel off the original unit using a dremel with a cut off wheel. i cut frpm the FW side with the dream inside the barrel cutting out.
-from the inside the barrel has to go to the left down and then right. its a thing.
-I had to remove the foam form the barrel in order for the pedal mount to go forward enough for the tabs on the top to allow it to seat then the bolt holes aligned like magic.
the Pedal msut be on the bracket when you install it. I could not get the pedal to mount ot the bracket while it was installed.
-i could not get the master cylinder to align. I had the GF pull lightly on the clutch pedal to pull it in while I aligned it..
This process sucked, hope this and the video helps. If I had to do it again i could do it in an hour.
I’ve got a 2002 Silverado 4.8 manual transmission. Know if any channels that give solid information on that truck or any others close to that model???
No. I'm sorry, I do not.
This is a great video. So helpful. You are awesome, my friend!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Very good video I having that problem I give 100
% for a good video. Thanks.
I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Good man
Thanks a lot.
My 02 silverado has starting issues. The clutch safety switch slides up and down the clutch rod easily. Is it supposed to slide away from the firewall towards the driver seat just by pushing with a finger? Or is it supposed to be fixed to the pedal assy?
At the 1:40 mark of the video...does the switch snap into the broken out piece?
Thanks, this really helped me get this job done, especially your showing the angle you figured out. I still had to disconnect the electrical box in the area to get it out of the way, but that's just a couple of nuts.
I am glad you got it figured out and I appreciate you watching
Piece of cake, my struggle is getting the broken assembly off of the cylinder.?
The doorman replacement has a steel insert where it always breaks out
can you take off and put on the clutch foot lever onto that doorman bracket too? The doorman part doesnt show the actrual pedal on their part. Thanks for the tip above too.
@@christopherw4527 yep you pull the whole thing out and you put the pedal on the new bracket
@@jaydenorcutt5677 Thanks a million. I'll order that bracket now.
This was super helpful, thanks!
Hey, thanks for watching.
Awesome! Helped me a lot.
Did you have to bleed it
God bless you 👏🏻 thank you very much
Thanks for watching.
How the hell did you get your hand in there to disconnect the ball from the pedal? I can’t for the life of me do it no matter the angle in the truck.
The first time was really hard. I broke and folded back three fingers to get it done.
Mine has broken twice.
The atomic Fab bracket is much stronger btw
Good to know. If I ever buy another one of these trucks, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.
Thank God for lube👍
Danged ol Indiana Raspberry jelly
Nice.
I can answer the question. There is not an easier way
Eaisiest way to get it out it to disconnect the break pedal from the push rod. Then snap the clutch pedal in half. This makes it way eaiser to take off. Not very hard to break it
Very good system by the American builders, complite plastic to be damaged and get stranded in the streets, 💩 pooped system, thanks to American builders.
Use bees wax works much better than grease
I'm doing this currently and can not for the life of me get the damn thing down
Did you get it figured out?
The easiest way to do it is unbolt the dash and push it forward slightly to give yourself the extra room
Yes, after your video it went from a 4 hour ordeal to a 30 deal. So thanks for the video lol
@@MagnumTheGamer I'm glad you got it figured out.
Pull the unit the following way and in this order.
Pull screws - unplug all connectors from power distribution block - remove power distribution block by depressing the two white tabs on either side at the top then rotating the top towards you while sliding the whole thing upwards (its very easy) - *Now for the pedal assembly* pull back while aiming the rear of the bracket up (towards steering wheel kinda) - once the round portion of the assembly in out of the fire wall point the rear left towards your drivers side mirror while pulling and rotating the round male portion down to about the 4 o clock position - after this you simply have to work it out between the brake pedal arm and the right bracket that held in the power distribution block.
The trick is two orientate it the right way at the start when pulling it from the firewall. If you do this wrong, that's the ball game. I had mine out in 3 minutes. I spent more time taking the bolts out.
Now to make the install so much easier then all these videos make it look. Separate the pedal from your bracket. This is also super easy. On your new assembly there will be two hex looking things, one on either side. It will look like you could put a hex wrench in there. Take a sharpened pencil or anything laying tapered laying around and press it in. While its in, pull the pedal to when lock that in by wedging it against the inside of the bracket assembly and remove the pencil. Then repeat for the other side, pull your pencil out and the pedal will slide right out of the bracket assembly. Now, go bolt that bad boy in and in minutes cram the pedal up in the diagonally and rotate it and the rotational force will press the sides in. Toy with it until you hear them pop in and your done. Reconnect your safety lock out switch on the master cylinder if you disconnected it and replace and re connect the distribution block. Congrats you're done.
❤
On a chevy Silverado
05 Chevy Silverado
👏🏽👏🏽
Thank you for watching. I hope it helped.
This guy is a lair and has no idea what he talking about
I replaced a clutch pedal. You seen me do it.