Hello, I'm confused I bought a sinclaire bump gauge and measure my virgin 338 Lapua mag brass and got 2.172 and bought a Giraud bump gauge and it measured 2.262 I measured multiple times and got these numbers. How is it you are measuring on your virgin brass 2.321 ??
Great video, brother! I need to break down and buy an ultrasonic. I'm looking forward to seeing the results you get from your neck tension tests with this one. Fun little project you've got started here!
I put off getting an ultrasonic for several years but now that I have one I wished that I had it sooner. It saves a lot of time cleaning dirty brass. It also cleans inside the brass and the primer pockets where my tumbler did not clean. After ultrasonic cleaning the brass comes out clean but not shiny. Because I don't use distilled water the brass also has a little residue from drying. I put the brass in my tumbler after ultra sonic cleaning and it gets rid of the residue and makes them very shiny in only a few minutes. I have been using Hornady ultrasonic cleaning solution that you dilute 40:1. I tried the DIY solution, but it is not worth the effort that it take to make it. Buying it is not expensive compared to all the other expenses there are in reloading and it is a time saver.
@Aaron Anderson I'm definitely NOT thinking of replacing wet tumbling with ultrasonic cleaning. It would just be nice for basic tasks like removing lube from cases without screwing up chamfers. And for cleaning bolt carrier groups and other small gun parts.
@wayne Pursell I didn't realize the Hornady units were so affordable. Some of the other brands are just crazy expensive! I'm definitely going to get one. Thanks for the tip on the cleaning solution.
Johnny's Reloading Bench I can definitely see it helping with small parts. To remove case lube I just wet tumble for 10 minutes and rinse/dry. Doesn’t effect the chamfers.
I was almost half way expecting you would have turned the necks for uniform neck tension when i saw the mandrels in the last vid, lol. Great vid as always.
I have a .338 and have always contemplated loading my own rounds. THIS IS A LOT of work but I’m tired of the price of ammo. I run Nosler match grade through mine (I know there is cheaper) and the price kills me every time. I might finally become one with the rifle when I load my own rounds. I feel like a deeper connection with the rifle comes with running hand loaded ammo.
The one step that was probably not needed was the ultrasonic cleaning to remove the lube. Zediker said his tests showed Imperial in the necks doesn't hurt anything. Also, I'm very leery of chamfering and de-burring immediately prior to loading. I'm afraid that shards of brass will remain in the neck and affect neck tension. Probably best to do it before final cleaning/wipe down. If you haven't already primed the cases, why not go with one type to isolated the effect of different neck tensions? Did you check the concentricity of the cases after sizing? I'm interested in how those sized with the expander ball compare to those done with the mandrel. FYI, I really look forward to these videos on Saturday am. Thanks!
Glad you guys like the videos. I did take the concentricity measurements of the raw brass before I started. I prefer not to get to wrapped up in those measurements until the brass is fire formed. Afterward I will see what yields the best results.
First & foremost, thank you very much for doing the 338 LM video-very helpful!!! Quick question as i am just starting...the first die you used after you waxed the neck was the neck sizing die correct? It was not a full length die. After 5 yrs of paying someone to reload & dealing with load inconsistency issues here i am. Thx again.
@@BoltActionReloading do you have any 338 LM video's that discuss purchasing the tools for the job? I have heard there is a short list of presses that will work as a result of its lengthy case & long bullet. Also discussing types of die & there function. What you have to watch for as you continue to reuse your brass? Neck sizing only vs full length dies & the difference? Is there a way to reload two at a time? Mainly a basic video instructions AFTER the brass is cleaned. Another thought is removal & installing primer. I have been paying a guy for 5 yrs to reload for me but his loads became very inconsistent. Thanks & i appreciate your thoughts.
I'm a new subscriber so maybe you've already covered this topic but I would love to know what your final most accurate load came up to be for the 338 Lapua as I also have a Savage 110 ba which is identical to the stealth the only difference being is your chassis is a lot lighter than mine. Original shots in Factory Hornady match 285 grain rounds through it and the accuracy was less than a half a minute but I've been having some trouble finding an accurate load for this rifle unless I duplicate the hornaday load which I have to use the Hornady brass and it is known to stick and it sticks in my rifle as well. I have currently bought 300 rounds of Lapua brass and have several different types of projectiles . I've been trying IMR 4831 as well as Hodgdon retumbo . Any help I would be very very grateful.
Have you had a chance to use the forster micromoter seater die with the 338 lapua? Do you have to tip the bullet into the die before seating? Or is there enough room to do the seating comfortably. Thanks, btw I would love to see the seating video if you made one
What do you use to knock out small primers on lapua brass the flash hole is so tiny I know I can change out thr pins to smaller ones on my Redding type s fl bushing die but I don’t want to have run that ball all the way into the case just to get the primer out
+Rob Chapin glad you like the channel. There is plenty more 6.5 action to come. Trying to get the rounds to break in this 338 completed. Trying to branch out a little, plus I couldn't resist the deal on this rifle. Assuming it shoots of course.... I have 3 more tests loaded and ready to shoot. I was about to settle on the147 eld-m but Sierra came out with these 150s so I need to give them a try too.
Why do you leave the expander ball in your full length resizing die and then rework the neck with your expanding mandrel? Why not remove the expanding ball from your Forester die and then exclusively use the expanding mandrel?
I was initially fighting my scope rail issues when I was doing the neck tension tests, so unfortunately I could not correlate any of the Neck tension on how it related to group size. it sounds like something interesting to look into though.
Bolt Action Reloading so the lee dies I’m looking at has the sizing die and is that the first thing you do to a empty brass? Also to determine if I need to screw the die in more or not would I check the OAL of the casing or would I go by the neck length using the caliper add on gauge? Thanks again for all the help
@@shbooby5258 sorry for the slow response. When you include a link it automatically puts it into a manual approval process. No that tool will tell you if it fits in a Sammi chamber. To be frank you don't care. You want it to fit in your chamber. You really need to know what your chamber size is and that you move it just .002" when you resize it.
You are correct, this video is a bit dated now, but I have tried to correct it moving forward. Frankly I get more complaints now from folks that think they know how to pronounce it and don't.
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See how these cases performed! th-cam.com/video/fhbJVysdUBQ/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I'm confused I bought a sinclaire bump gauge and measure my virgin 338 Lapua mag brass and got 2.172 and bought a Giraud bump gauge and it measured 2.262 I measured multiple times and got these numbers. How is it you are measuring on your virgin brass 2.321 ??
I put that 2.321 measurement on my Mitutoyo caliper and its a bit long.
Great video, brother! I need to break down and buy an ultrasonic. I'm looking forward to seeing the results you get from your neck tension tests with this one. Fun little project you've got started here!
I put off getting an ultrasonic for several years but now that I have one I wished that I had it sooner. It saves a lot of time cleaning dirty brass. It also cleans inside the brass and the primer pockets where my tumbler did not clean. After ultrasonic cleaning the brass comes out clean but not shiny. Because I don't use distilled water the brass also has a little residue from drying. I put the brass in my tumbler after ultra sonic cleaning and it gets rid of the residue and makes them very shiny in only a few minutes. I have been using Hornady ultrasonic cleaning solution that you dilute 40:1. I tried the DIY solution, but it is not worth the effort that it take to make it. Buying it is not expensive compared to all the other expenses there are in reloading and it is a time saver.
I prefer the wet tumble to ultrasonic. Just my two cents.
@Aaron Anderson I'm definitely NOT thinking of replacing wet tumbling with ultrasonic cleaning. It would just be nice for basic tasks like removing lube from cases without screwing up chamfers. And for cleaning bolt carrier groups and other small gun parts.
@wayne Pursell I didn't realize the Hornady units were so affordable. Some of the other brands are just crazy expensive! I'm definitely going to get one. Thanks for the tip on the cleaning solution.
Johnny's Reloading Bench I can definitely see it helping with small parts. To remove case lube I just wet tumble for 10 minutes and rinse/dry. Doesn’t effect the chamfers.
Love your channel, great video!
Nice video. An ultrasonic cleaner is something on my wish list, though I’d like it to fit a barreled action.
I was almost half way expecting you would have turned the necks for uniform neck tension when i saw the mandrels in the last vid, lol. Great vid as always.
+lonz73 don't doubt I still might. I did pick up the mandrel for my neck turner
I have a .338 and have always contemplated loading my own rounds. THIS IS A LOT of work but I’m tired of the price of ammo. I run Nosler match grade through mine (I know there is cheaper) and the price kills me every time. I might finally become one with the rifle when I load my own rounds. I feel like a deeper connection with the rifle comes with running hand loaded ammo.
Fantastic video man! More videos are always good
Glad you guys like the videos. I always struggle how much to record vs get on with the process.
Thank you very informative.
You are welcome!
The one step that was probably not needed was the ultrasonic cleaning to remove the lube. Zediker said his tests showed Imperial in the necks doesn't hurt anything. Also, I'm very leery of chamfering and de-burring immediately prior to loading. I'm afraid that shards of brass will remain in the neck and affect neck tension. Probably best to do it before final cleaning/wipe down.
If you haven't already primed the cases, why not go with one type to isolated the effect of different neck tensions?
Did you check the concentricity of the cases after sizing? I'm interested in how those sized with the expander ball compare to those done with the mandrel.
FYI, I really look forward to these videos on Saturday am. Thanks!
Glad you guys like the videos. I did take the concentricity measurements of the raw brass before I started. I prefer not to get to wrapped up in those measurements until the brass is fire formed. Afterward I will see what yields the best results.
Thank you for your video..
FIRST, wow your almost all the way on camera!
Vaughn Precision lol, the extremely elusive Moparmadman...hahaha!
Only by accident, fire the camera man. I hated to scrap the footage, way too much effort to throw away.
First & foremost, thank you very much for doing the 338 LM video-very helpful!!! Quick question as i am just starting...the first die you used after you waxed the neck was the neck sizing die correct? It was not a full length die. After 5 yrs of paying someone to reload & dealing with load inconsistency issues here i am. Thx again.
I never use a neck sizing die. I use a FL die and open the neck back up with a expander mandrel.
@@BoltActionReloading do you have any 338 LM video's that discuss purchasing the tools for the job? I have heard there is a short list of presses that will work as a result of its lengthy case & long bullet. Also discussing types of die & there function. What you have to watch for as you continue to reuse your brass? Neck sizing only vs full length dies & the difference? Is there a way to reload two at a time? Mainly a basic video instructions AFTER the brass is cleaned. Another thought is removal & installing primer. I have been paying a guy for 5 yrs to reload for me but his loads became very inconsistent. Thanks & i appreciate your thoughts.
I'm a new subscriber so maybe you've already covered this topic but I would love to know what your final most accurate load came up to be for the 338 Lapua as I also have a Savage 110 ba which is identical to the stealth the only difference being is your chassis is a lot lighter than mine. Original shots in Factory Hornady match 285 grain rounds through it and the accuracy was less than a half a minute but I've been having some trouble finding an accurate load for this rifle unless I duplicate the hornaday load which I have to use the Hornady brass and it is known to stick and it sticks in my rifle as well. I have currently bought 300 rounds of Lapua brass and have several different types of projectiles . I've been trying IMR 4831 as well as Hodgdon retumbo . Any help I would be very very grateful.
Have you had a chance to use the forster micromoter seater die with the 338 lapua? Do you have to tip the bullet into the die before seating? Or is there enough room to do the seating comfortably. Thanks, btw I would love to see the seating video if you made one
+Michael Yaremkiv I didn't video it to be honest. Yes you do have to tip the bullet. You can't have everything in life. Thanks for commenting.
Bolt Action Reloading cool thanks for the reply, I hope it's not too much of a PITA, guess I'll find out when the die gets here
I purchased some once fired 338 Laplante brass from Barrett. Some cases after sizing are 2.709. Is this still safe to reload and shoot?
That is only .005" under trim length. I am sure that will be fine.
What is the resource of the barrel by using 338 lapua? Sorry for my English
What do you use to knock out small primers on lapua brass the flash hole is so tiny I know I can change out thr pins to smaller ones on my Redding type s fl bushing die but I don’t want to have run that ball all the way into the case just to get the primer out
You can use a Redding small pin decapping die.
Do you find you get a lot of brass build up on the Sinclair mandrel and it scores the hell outa the inside of the neck?
You still need to use some lube. If you do it works fine.
Bolt Action Reloading I have been using Redding dry graphite lube. Maybe ill try something defferent
Love the cannel. I would like to see what you Finally components you went with on the 6.5 cm..
+Rob Chapin glad you like the channel. There is plenty more 6.5 action to come. Trying to get the rounds to break in this 338 completed. Trying to branch out a little, plus I couldn't resist the deal on this rifle. Assuming it shoots of course.... I have 3 more tests loaded and ready to shoot. I was about to settle on the147 eld-m but Sierra came out with these 150s so I need to give them a try too.
Why do you leave the expander ball in your full length resizing die and then rework the neck with your expanding mandrel? Why not remove the expanding ball from your Forester die and then exclusively use the expanding mandrel?
i would like to know if you found any difference in group size in relation to neck tension?
I was initially fighting my scope rail issues when I was doing the neck tension tests, so unfortunately I could not correlate any of the Neck tension on how it related to group size. it sounds like something interesting to look into though.
How do you set back shoulder?
The more sizing you do the case (more you screw the die in) the more you are setting the shoulder back.
Bolt Action Reloading so the lee dies I’m looking at has the sizing die and is that the first thing you do to a empty brass? Also to determine if I need to screw the die in more or not would I check the OAL of the casing or would I go by the neck length using the caliper add on gauge? Thanks again for all the help
You need the tool I talk about in this video th-cam.com/video/_lR3Dx-Er-I/w-d-xo.html
Bolt Action Reloading---I bought this a few days ago with this work? www.amazon.com/Lyman-Single-Caliber-Rifle-Checkers/dp/B0744SC4SJ
@@shbooby5258 sorry for the slow response. When you include a link it automatically puts it into a manual approval process. No that tool will tell you if it fits in a Sammi chamber. To be frank you don't care. You want it to fit in your chamber. You really need to know what your chamber size is and that you move it just .002" when you resize it.
Hallo,leider keine deutsche Sprache?
You are mispronouncing Lapua
You are correct, this video is a bit dated now, but I have tried to correct it moving forward. Frankly I get more complaints now from folks that think they know how to pronounce it and don't.