Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness. You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated. I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires?? I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp. I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input. would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system. Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3) LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up) Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc) that should really be it.
Thank you so so much. This video really helped me! Only place I could find the correct colors for my right column signal or right rear speaker wire. I subscribed just because if this lol! You rock
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
Thats how the audio shop did my install my amp wouldn't stay in place I moved it to the hidden front seat console and here soon will be doing a 3" rear seat lift and making a box to fit behind the seat it will be tight but will be much nicer having under seat space again. Very clean install there though
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
Soo ur doing those signal wire because your hooking those speakers to the amp right? But if ur not doing that then u dnt need that signal wire or do u ???
Amp has to receive a signal from somewhere otherwise how does it know what music to play? Aftermarket head units will sometimes have RCA outputs however the majority of stock head units don’t. So to get the music signal to the amp you use a line out converter. This allows you to convert the factory high level signal to a low level and hence use RCAs.
It’s just a matter of going back over your connections. If you’ve got power to the amp that means the remote turn on and ground should be good. I’d start by checking the main power wire. If that’s good I’d start checking the speaker signal wires, line out converter, and RCA cables. if you’re 100% on that check fuses.
You definitely don’t need to do both sides for a single sub. Certain songs take advantage of the right and left side separately so if that doesn’t bother you you can splice one side for two subs actually.
Adam Dozier they work great however I did find something better and actually cheaper. Also less bulky as you mentioned. Here’s a link if you’re interested. Nilight - 50004R 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_Til3FbGJCA8CD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
So the fuse you tapped is a constant feed... thats a selectable constant/ignition port. The female spade toward the front that is open is your ignition. The easiest location to run power in those trucks is to drll a hole in firewall on appsenger side and use a grommet and silicone. The LOC you used provided your remote output through signal sense. Being you ran a remote, the only wires you needed to wire was the speaker leads. To mount the amp, cut the rear sound deadening material away and use a 1/2" piece of plywood and "L" bracket the board to the floor. This is my profession... just giving you some tips for the next install.
I got a question.....I'm getting ready to do an install on my truck. I'm going to use the Lp7-2 PAC line output converter. The way i understand it if i supply +12 vdc, ground and a + and - from a speaker then it when it sees voltage from the speaker input it sends + voltage to the remote wire to tell the amp to come on? Is that right?
Jake P Thats correct. It uses what’s called a signal sense. When the LOC senses an input voltage from the speaker leads it activates the remote lead. There some vehicles that it doesn’t function as intended. Meaning you may have to turn the volume up for the actual signal to be adequate enough to activate the remote lead.
@@lwoodard272008 alright thanks! I have never needed a loc, I usually upgrade the head unit as well. But hopefully what I have bought works. Thanks for your help.
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
It’s feb 2022 and I just got my hands on a 2015 I’m going to be doing an install but instead of doing a under seat box I’ll make a box that has 2 10” skar. I’m planning on compromising one seat either middle or driver side passenger to have a box that starts at the bottom and then partially sits on the seat. The amp will be under the seat for easier tuning adjustments. I do have a question though. Was the stereo aftermarket on your project ? What exactly do I need to get the signal into the amp ? I’m guessing oem stereo doesn’t come with rcas lol. Any advice would help man. Great video all in all ! Very informative 💯👌🏼
So you didn’t had to do anything towards the factory touch screen radio? I have a 2018 Chevy as well and I’m thinking about installing an amp and subwoofers. Is it as easy as just connecting a wire to the back door speaker wires?
No you don’t ever have to touch the head unit. To sum the wiring up you need: Power wire, ground wire, remote turn on wire, and signal wires. Your signal wires run to one end of the line out converter and from the other end you run your RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp.
Remote start has nothing to do with it. It’s a remote turn on for the amp so it doesn’t stay on all the time and drain your battery. You HAVE to have this. It allows the amp to turn on when the ignition is turned on and turn off when you kill the truck. Remote start is a completely different thing.
Can I please get info on the air ratchet? My husband was watching this video for his install so I want to get it for him. Do I just ask for an air ratchet?
Yes it’s an air ratchet. You obviously have to have an air compressor to use it but you can get the cheapest one and it’s a life saver for the price. Harbor freight carries them as well pretty cheap.
Modern amps like this especially your class D produce very little heat of any. I’ve had the same setup in my own 2014 Silverado for 5 years now. No issues.
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
It’s used to convert the high output signals to low so that RCA cables can be used. Most modern amplifiers only have RCA inputs so in this case yes it’s necessary.
The only thing connected to the battery is your main power wire with inline fuse. As long as you wire the remote wire to the fuse location I showed you won’t have any issues running down the battery. This fuse location will turn the amp on when the car starts and turn off when you turn the key off.
Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
You can put clear silicone where you cut even tho water won’t get in that’s what I did when I was younger and scared about the same thing lol
Went from thinking I could do this to knowing I can’t do this. Thanks for saving me the headache lol .
U don't gotta do both sides just one for the loc
lol I came away thinking the exact opposite. I thought it was pretty straight forward,just takes a sec.
@@highlifegoodlife5400 why don’t you have to do both ?
Cuz u only have to tap into the driver side pillar. No point in doin both there's lots of videos on it.
GenZ smh
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
Just used this as guide and installed my subs in less that 4 hrs thanks alot
Glad it helped!
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
Hell yeah just what I needed straight to the point 🙏
The walkthrough is super clear. Great job. Thank you :)
This helped a lot for my 2016 silverado! Thank you
Were the speaker wires the same colors on your 2016?
@mikeshanks1266 yes they were
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
So Pro work .. God bless you .. we just need the connecters names and links to find it .. also the fuse adapter and all.
thank you
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
I’m going to try to do all this thanks for how you explain all this simple an easy thank you
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness.
You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Yup, should have taped into front speakers in that model!
Yea the rear speakers only go to 60% volume
I used a old oil dipstick to fish the power wire through the firewall, worked pretty good! Can confirm
Remove the factory long antenna works great with some electrical tape.
Those taps make it some much easier
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
You ever get it working?
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
Any active LOC will work just fine.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
And "active" on a loc means it gives you a remote output for the amp through signal sense from the input.
do you have the bose system?
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
Great video,big help for me.gonna attempt this job on my 15 chevy 2500.
Best video for this model truck sub/amp install.
Appreciate it!
Thanks bro. You saved me $200.
Glad it helped homie!
Why would u not just use a interface plug adapter at the back of the radio. No splicing. Just plug and play
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated.
I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires??
I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp.
I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input.
would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
@@TyBohler Thanks for the updated info 🤙
Really good Video looking forward to install in my GMC sierra 👍🏼
Rigoberto, are the gmc sierra signal wires on the door harness the same as in the video?
@@MrArturoDominguez Almost everything should be the same as far as wiring harnesses go.
Does this work for the trucks with the Bose system?
Duhhh
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
Thank you!
Mannnn this video really helped! Thank you!
the only time I remove everything when I installed my AR safe. for speakers hell no. Great Video
Great instructional video, you guys are GREAT!!👍👍
@@o.w.dobbins6927 appreciate it!
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system.
Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3)
LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up)
Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc)
that should really be it.
@@cavdrkz24 do you need to add those extra fuses if you aren’t doing the remote turn on ?
Thank you so so much. This video really helped me! Only place I could find the correct colors for my right column signal or right rear speaker wire. I subscribed just because if this lol! You rock
Appreciate the sub. Glad the video helped! 👊🏻
So does the amp also connect to the speakers on the dash
Thanks for the video it helped alot.. One question where did you end up getting your remote signal from afterall if it wasn't from the #2 fuse?
Do you remember which kit you went with?
Don’t remember the exact one but this is very similar. a.co/d/59SOsYK
@@JordanMoree Kool thanks bro
Thanks for the video guys! That was really helpful for me to setup my new bass in my Silverado…regards…
How do you adjust your amp back in that hole like that?
You don’t. Make your adjustments first. He already had this same setup in his previous truck so we didn’t have to mess with it.
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
Did this have a stock head unit and stock door speakers ?
Good job buddy very well explained!!
Good job bro, did you hook the bass knob up or did you leave it off
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
So where did you get the remote wire and power ? It is just any type of wire?
Did you keep the stock radio or swapped in different video?
What this still work if i have Bose audio that came in the truck
Thats how the audio shop did my install my amp wouldn't stay in place I moved it to the hidden front seat console and here soon will be doing a 3" rear seat lift and making a box to fit behind the seat it will be tight but will be much nicer having under seat space again. Very clean install there though
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
I have the same truck and was wondering the same thing
going through that rubber grommit was the hardest part of the install lol
YES it is!!!
Doing a single 12 install for my 2020 silverado 2500 on tuesday
Soo ur doing those signal wire because your hooking those speakers to the amp right? But if ur not doing that then u dnt need that signal wire or do u ???
Amp has to receive a signal from somewhere otherwise how does it know what music to play? Aftermarket head units will sometimes have RCA outputs however the majority of stock head units don’t. So to get the music signal to the amp you use a line out converter. This allows you to convert the factory high level signal to a low level and hence use RCAs.
I’m getting power to the amp but no sound, any idea what the problem could be? Love the video btw.
It’s just a matter of going back over your connections. If you’ve got power to the amp that means the remote turn on and ground should be good. I’d start by checking the main power wire. If that’s good I’d start checking the speaker signal wires, line out converter, and RCA cables. if you’re 100% on that check fuses.
MOREE GARAGE gotcha 👌 do you need to run signal wires from both driver and passenger sides if you’re only installing a single sub ?
You definitely don’t need to do both sides for a single sub. Certain songs take advantage of the right and left side separately so if that doesn’t bother you you can splice one side for two subs actually.
You didn’t have to do anything with the head unit?
@@adamheath7448 nope, everything is wired in the B pillars for signal to the LOC since the head unit has no outputs.
what if I dont want to use the stock speaker wires and swap em out for 12 gauge wires, will I still need to tap in from the stock speaker wires?
I don’t remember it being this difficult back in the day lol bunch of extra stuff
And it’s only getting more difficult. They keep adding extra stuff!
Nice video...Those connectors you used for the LOC were bulky. I like the concept but don't think I'll be using those.
Adam Dozier they work great however I did find something better and actually cheaper. Also less bulky as you mentioned. Here’s a link if you’re interested. Nilight - 50004R 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_Til3FbGJCA8CD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
What do u mean by signal wires ? Wen connecting to lineout converter ,u mean left and right speaker ?
Speaker wires send a signal. So yes
Quick question, was that wire OFC? Or it doesn’t really matter? Idk if to get CCA or OFC speaker wire -_- it’s for 130watt door speakers.
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@bigtheo79 you obviously didn't hear what the dude just said ofc is the obvious better choice but if you're running low wattage there's no need
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
@@bigtheo79 sorry your right
Thank you know I can blast music on my way to school 😂
did the bottom of your seats lock with the box underneath?
It’s been a while but I’m pretty certain they did.
You don’t have to get behind the radio ?
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
Great video and info. Thanks champ!
Sorry for a new comment after all this time, But how much do you charge for a job like this?
So the fuse you tapped is a constant feed... thats a selectable constant/ignition port. The female spade toward the front that is open is your ignition. The easiest location to run power in those trucks is to drll a hole in firewall on appsenger side and use a grommet and silicone. The LOC you used provided your remote output through signal sense. Being you ran a remote, the only wires you needed to wire was the speaker leads. To mount the amp, cut the rear sound deadening material away and use a 1/2" piece of plywood and "L" bracket the board to the floor. This is my profession... just giving you some tips for the next install.
I got a question.....I'm getting ready to do an install on my truck. I'm going to use the Lp7-2 PAC line output converter. The way i understand it if i supply +12 vdc, ground and a + and - from a speaker then it when it sees voltage from the speaker input it sends + voltage to the remote wire to tell the amp to come on? Is that right?
Jake P Thats correct. It uses what’s called a signal sense. When the LOC senses an input voltage from the speaker leads it activates the remote lead. There some vehicles that it doesn’t function as intended. Meaning you may have to turn the volume up for the actual signal to be adequate enough to activate the remote lead.
@@lwoodard272008 alright thanks! I have never needed a loc, I usually upgrade the head unit as well. But hopefully what I have bought works. Thanks for your help.
How did you make it work without pulling out the screen and the radio unit
Where did you get the box and everything to hook it up????
What type of fuse tap did you use I can’t find non that fit the fuses on the truck
I know this video is old but is it necessary to get signal from both speakers? I might just install one subwoofer
If you’re just doing one or even two you can just run one signal. Some songs take bass signal from the left and right. But one signal works just fine.
How much did everything cost
You didn’t even have to touch or do anything to the factory stereo?
factory head unit does not have to be removed at all if you do it the way I did
@@JordanMoree what did you run the blue remote wire too?
SEO RAP Fuse slot in the drive side fuse box. Then that runs to the amp itself.
Did onstar work after this?
Can someone break down the wiring for the line out converter? Also the remote wire goes into the converter and the amp?
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
Would this be the same for a 2500 duramax?
It’s feb 2022 and I just got my hands on a 2015 I’m going to be doing an install but instead of doing a under seat box I’ll make a box that has 2 10” skar. I’m planning on compromising one seat either middle or driver side passenger to have a box that starts at the bottom and then partially sits on the seat. The amp will be under the seat for easier tuning adjustments. I do have a question though. Was the stereo aftermarket on your project ? What exactly do I need to get the signal into the amp ? I’m guessing oem stereo doesn’t come with rcas lol. Any advice would help man. Great video all in all ! Very informative 💯👌🏼
I got 2016 silverado and got the bose system. I wanna do the same as in video but do you think it will soubd good keeping factory door speakers
I wish you would of said which subwoofer it is …… they make a few shallow mount subs
Hi, I like your content. Do you accept sponsored products?
I never have before so I’m not sure of the process but you can shoot me an email with the details if you’d like. NSpunk05@yahoo.com
@@JordanMoree Hi, just sent you an email.
Tried following this thought i did good lol sub works mint but neither windiw on the drivers side will go down lol
Did you nick a wire or something ?
So you didn’t had to do anything towards the factory touch screen radio? I have a 2018 Chevy as well and I’m thinking about installing an amp and subwoofers. Is it as easy as just connecting a wire to the back door speaker wires?
No you don’t ever have to touch the head unit. To sum the wiring up you need: Power wire, ground wire, remote turn on wire, and signal wires. Your signal wires run to one end of the line out converter and from the other end you run your RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp.
MOREE GARAGE okay sounds good. Only thing is that my truck doesn’t have the remote start function so I would just skip that part right?
Remote start has nothing to do with it. It’s a remote turn on for the amp so it doesn’t stay on all the time and drain your battery. You HAVE to have this. It allows the amp to turn on when the ignition is turned on and turn off when you kill the truck. Remote start is a completely different thing.
MOREE GARAGE ahhhh okay that makes perfect sense. My bad. By any chance where did you get those posi taps that you use for the door speaker wires?
Amazon
Can I please get info on the air ratchet? My husband was watching this video for his install so I want to get it for him. Do I just ask for an air ratchet?
Yes it’s an air ratchet. You obviously have to have an air compressor to use it but you can get the cheapest one and it’s a life saver for the price. Harbor freight carries them as well pretty cheap.
@@JordanMoree thank you!
is the amp going to have enough air flow behind the seat so it dont over heat?
Modern amps like this especially your class D produce very little heat of any. I’ve had the same setup in my own 2014 Silverado for 5 years now. No issues.
This work whit Bose systems?
What is the speaker wire gauge
So where did you end up getting the remote signal after all?
From the add a fuse.
@@JordanMoree No issues with the amp staying on after you turn off the truck?
@@cjlos2050sp nope the fuse location I used works perfect for the remote turn on wire.
I’m Confused from my civic days but do you need a aftermarket stereo or this for stock 7 inch display???
You dont need the line out put convertor if you have a aftermarket deck.
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
Is that a prefab box? If so, what kind?
Did this install method also amplify the door chimes? Seems that using a LOC often also makes the door chimes extremely loud as well
I’ve never noticed it
Hey what i need to buy i have 2014 silverado
How much would a job like this cost 2014 silverado
So where did you run the remote wire. I saw in video but later you said you removed it. So I'm confused.
Is the line out converter nessasary
It’s used to convert the high output signals to low so that RCA cables can be used. Most modern amplifiers only have RCA inputs so in this case yes it’s necessary.
@@JordanMoree where can i find one today I’m like halfway done
You can try Best Buy, car toys, etc. I usually get them on Amazon.
I realize the amp isn’t seen but that part of the install could have been cleaner. Other than that it looked great.
There are multiple problems with this install I really hope he’s improved.
This install was garbage imo. Knowledgeable for beginners sure. But wire management and securing and running the wires gives me a headache lol
Quick question what else is connected to the battery and has the battery ever die yet
The only thing connected to the battery is your main power wire with inline fuse. As long as you wire the remote wire to the fuse location I showed you won’t have any issues running down the battery. This fuse location will turn the amp on when the car starts and turn off when you turn the key off.