Afternoon Chris 👋A competent, knowledgeable bike mechanic is worth their weight in precious metal ! Really nice bike shop & workshop I have to say 👌. Love the matt green frame still.... very nice indeed!
Good tips. Adding sealant after setting the tire/tyre bead is helpful. I've had one explode in my face once while beading. Thankfully the sealant didn't hit me full on! Only disagree on the chain lube. If you like grimy chains it's your choice and money so not going to argue never do it. But having used wet lubes and "dry" lubes of all sorts for years I've found waxing to be the all-round winner. It is absolutely cleaner, less work to maintain and longer lasting -for the entire drive train - even in wet - even on long distance racing and tours I've done. I do carry a liquid lube (Squirt) just in case but rarely need it. Once I wet the chain it immediately gets grimy picking up dust and dirt. Wax chains run smooth for weeks and I don't get cat 6 tats if I touch one. The only people who poo-poo wax seem to have never done the research, given it a serious go or have failed at sorting out a process that works. (Imnsho this also holds for fixie, cable groupset and rim brake aficionados!) Alas there will always be luddites hurting themselves for the sake of nostalgia or ignorance. God bless them!
It seems good till uve looked at your wage packet and looked at your Bill's,every bike shop I've ever worked in has been brilliant enjoyable work but utterly shit pay and every shop struggles.
@@elvislad Hence why its a dream for me. I've no idea about the business its self, but imagine a prime location and other added factors to make it work so well! :))
For clarification - Nico is talking about Reserve Fillmore valves specifically @ 2:30. The core isn't removable, and while you can add (some kinds of) sealant through it, in practice it really doesn't work well.
Been using the Reserve Fillmore valves for a year with the generic stans sealant and stans injector and works fine. Havent had any gunk buildup, can seat all my tires with a cheap floor pump. Even mounted a set of marathon winter studded tires tubeless though those shoudn't work 😅 On DT G540 rims.
@@telepoiss My experience is similar; any sealant without added particulate works OK with a sturdy injector. Orange Seal Endurance is a different story.
So as a MTB'er (with 14y of Pressure washer maintenance... that's what you do after 20y in IT.?)... Here's my semi related tips... 6:22 Don't keep pulling/releasing the trigger on your Pressure Washer. The cheaper the unit, the cheaper the parts... and constant load/unload/load/unload of the parts shortens it's life. Keep that trigger on as long as you can (within reason). Extension leads are your enemy. You only have so much power available from the mains... (230v upto 10A in NZ means 2400Watts...) An extension cord causes resistance with heat etc.. meaning you can end up with less voltage... more amperage... and cooked electrics.. As short and fat extension cord as possible. No extn is best. Max pressure is NOT God... Actually a good combination of Flow and pressure is best... a 2000psi unit at 10 Lt.min is like a yard broom... 3000psi at 8 Lt/min is like a tooth brush you can stand on... Which would you wash the yard with ? (Actually a 6-8 Lt/min washer is only good for washing small things like bikes, you really need more water at the coal face for anything else) When done, If your not using it every week... (ahh just do this anyway...)... Leave it plugged in. Turn it off. Unplug the water and the high pressure hose (if it's not a built in reel).. then turn the unit On-Off (just once, running for a second or less)... That pumps the bulk of the water out of the pump so it doesn't corrode the pump while it sits on the shelf. (leave the high pressure hose off while stored.. the gun can stay on the other end.) Petrol washers... DON'T LEAVE THEM IDLING FOR MORE THAN ONE MINUTE ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! The water flowing through a washer is a radiator... taking the heat away from the pump. Leave it idling while you chat to your b/g friend... the water boils in a couple of minutes and your washer is TOAST. As for washing out the grease in your bearings... I'm on the sideline there.. Ever washed butter off a plate with cold water? BUT... what you CAN do is blast that dirt INTO the bearings... lets just not do that.. and use spray grease for your bearings (so you can grease them more often without having to actually open the parts up. Frankly I pressure wash my chain getting all the old grease/dirt mix off, then spray grease it... BUT that's me... Lazy. (Hence my mediocre videos)
TWO SPONGES! Made me laugh and remember (stupidly) setting-up a DIY wash station. Everyone washed his/her bike but EVERY sponge/brush/rag I supplied ended up black, black, black - all ruined and thrown away. First and last time I tried that!!!
The Shimano one is good but the SRAM video is terrible. Half of it is wrong and the SRAM ones aren't much better. I'm a former race mechanic and I would have been fired if I followed their techniques.
Sorry, but should never jet wash a customers bike unless its getting a full strip down after. He also mentions using a teflon spray. The mucoff maintenance spray is teflon free.
not really, wax gets washed in 10 minutes if you drive in rain that splashes on chain, bigger problem is to remove mud from chain to be prepared for wax because after rewax, no dirt will go out of chain and that is death sentence for chain
Hey Chris, it would have been a great video if you had left out that horrendous sound track. Not only is it as annoying AF, but the miking on the mechanic is competing with the musical droning throughout. That soundtrack adds NOTHING to this video. Consider keeping future vids straightforward without trying to impress some metalhead who might also be watching.
This mechanic doesn't own this bike and will not reap the damage this "jet washing" does to this bike. Seems like this bike world are over impressed with the "looks" of a clean bike. Water is the enemy.
This mechanic makes the same mistake most do,spray degreaser,bike wash all over the bike then spray off...all onto the bike rotors,awesome. Push pistons back with old pads in.
Nico was the mechanic on a few of the Cent Cols Challenge events I’ve done. A proper legend!
He certainly is isn’t he!?
Afternoon Chris 👋A competent, knowledgeable bike mechanic is worth their weight in precious metal ! Really nice bike shop & workshop I have to say 👌. Love the matt green frame still.... very nice indeed!
Well said! You’re completely right there
@@ChrisHallRides worth their weight in gold Chris.....think you may well have the equivalent of Francis's, Nick at Backyard up here in the Toon ! 👌
Worth their weight in gold but do companies pay good for their skills? Pft only a few do! 🙏
Another great video, keep going. Nico seems like a good dude.
Thanks so much!
The quick link tip alone was enough to like this one. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
That's one top notch bike shop and mechanic. What a beautiful looking bike. You need one of those jet wash stations at your place. Take care, Al
Yeah the jet wash station is so good! I wish I had the room for something like that at home!
Good tips. Adding sealant after setting the tire/tyre bead is helpful. I've had one explode in my face once while beading. Thankfully the sealant didn't hit me full on!
Only disagree on the chain lube. If you like grimy chains it's your choice and money so not going to argue never do it. But having used wet lubes and "dry" lubes of all sorts for years I've found waxing to be the all-round winner. It is absolutely cleaner, less work to maintain and longer lasting -for the entire drive train - even in wet - even on long distance racing and tours I've done. I do carry a liquid lube (Squirt) just in case but rarely need it. Once I wet the chain it immediately gets grimy picking up dust and dirt. Wax chains run smooth for weeks and I don't get cat 6 tats if I touch one. The only people who poo-poo wax seem to have never done the research, given it a serious go or have failed at sorting out a process that works. (Imnsho this also holds for fixie, cable groupset and rim brake aficionados!) Alas there will always be luddites hurting themselves for the sake of nostalgia or ignorance. God bless them!
Yay 🎉
Great seeing Nico here 👍🏼
He’s one of the good guys
Immersive wax for a U.K. winter - MTB, gravel and road - no debate. I have never had such a clean and quiet drivetrain.
I agree! The silca wax setup is fantastic
that was fun...smiling all the way through
Thanks for watching!
Amazing people ! ❤ Awesome video as always !
Thanks mate!
Having a LBS has been, and probably will always be a dream job for me.
It’s up there for me too
It seems good till uve looked at your wage packet and looked at your Bill's,every bike shop I've ever worked in has been brilliant enjoyable work but utterly shit pay and every shop struggles.
@@elvislad Hence why its a dream for me. I've no idea about the business its self, but imagine a prime location and other added factors to make it work so well! :))
For clarification - Nico is talking about Reserve Fillmore valves specifically @ 2:30. The core isn't removable, and while you can add (some kinds of) sealant through it, in practice it really doesn't work well.
Been using the Reserve Fillmore valves for a year with the generic stans sealant and stans injector and works fine. Havent had any gunk buildup, can seat all my tires with a cheap floor pump. Even mounted a set of marathon winter studded tires tubeless though those shoudn't work 😅
On DT G540 rims.
@@telepoiss My experience is similar; any sealant without added particulate works OK with a sturdy injector. Orange Seal Endurance is a different story.
@@RemarkaBIL havent tried that. but probably any chunkier sealant is a valve core death certificate? :D
If you're not using Schrader valves you're not thinking about the problem clearly. Presta valves bend,clog up and restrict air flow
Useful tips, though cleaning wise mines functionally clean and I've not thought about aligning the brake rotors. Those new wheels👌love a quiet hub.
The reserve wheels are very lovely!
Don't jet wash. Just hose down. Especially on a full suspension. Then gt85 the linkages after to remove any water.
Thanks mare for teh tips.
Thanks for watching!
Nico’s famous again
He was already famous 🤩
So as a MTB'er (with 14y of Pressure washer maintenance... that's what you do after 20y in IT.?)... Here's my semi related tips...
6:22 Don't keep pulling/releasing the trigger on your Pressure Washer. The cheaper the unit, the cheaper the parts... and constant load/unload/load/unload of the parts shortens it's life.
Keep that trigger on as long as you can (within reason).
Extension leads are your enemy. You only have so much power available from the mains... (230v upto 10A in NZ means 2400Watts...) An extension cord causes resistance with heat etc.. meaning you can end up with less voltage... more amperage... and cooked electrics.. As short and fat extension cord as possible. No extn is best.
Max pressure is NOT God... Actually a good combination of Flow and pressure is best...
a 2000psi unit at 10 Lt.min is like a yard broom...
3000psi at 8 Lt/min is like a tooth brush you can stand on...
Which would you wash the yard with ? (Actually a 6-8 Lt/min washer is only good for washing small things like bikes, you really need more water at the coal face for anything else)
When done, If your not using it every week... (ahh just do this anyway...)... Leave it plugged in. Turn it off. Unplug the water and the high pressure hose (if it's not a built in reel)..
then turn the unit On-Off (just once, running for a second or less)... That pumps the bulk of the water out of the pump so it doesn't corrode the pump while it sits on the shelf.
(leave the high pressure hose off while stored.. the gun can stay on the other end.)
Petrol washers... DON'T LEAVE THEM IDLING FOR MORE THAN ONE MINUTE ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
The water flowing through a washer is a radiator... taking the heat away from the pump. Leave it idling while you chat to your b/g friend... the water boils in a couple of minutes and your washer is TOAST.
As for washing out the grease in your bearings... I'm on the sideline there.. Ever washed butter off a plate with cold water?
BUT... what you CAN do is blast that dirt INTO the bearings... lets just not do that.. and use spray grease for your bearings (so you can grease them more often without having to actually open the parts up.
Frankly I pressure wash my chain getting all the old grease/dirt mix off, then spray grease it... BUT that's me... Lazy. (Hence my mediocre videos)
thanks, if i will open manual car wash service, i will read all your tips again
@@makantahi3731 Uh... now Biff, I want make sure that we get two coats of wax this time. Not just one.
Fillmore valves for tubeless is a real game changer.
Agree!
Why’s that? They look pretty similar to the presta valves I’m using now
New muc off valves look interesting
TWO SPONGES! Made me laugh and remember (stupidly) setting-up a DIY wash station. Everyone washed his/her bike but EVERY sponge/brush/rag I supplied ended up black, black, black - all ruined and thrown away. First and last time I tried that!!!
Hahaha maybe the solution is 3 sponges!?
Park Tools does a very good job of explaining how to bleed brakes, but you need the right equipment.
The Shimano one is good but the SRAM video is terrible. Half of it is wrong and the SRAM ones aren't much better. I'm a former race mechanic and I would have been fired if I followed their techniques.
i hate to do this because i am every time in oil to the elbows
The last pronunciation was actually the proper one ☝️
👌
If gunk sticks to your waxed chain, you’ve done it wrong
What a distraction with the music You enjoy it I switched off
Hasn't the shop closed now?
Sadly yes it has
What are those inverted bar ends on that cervelo?
The little hand thingys? They’re these: amzn.to/3YgMeLc
You know a LBS is fancy if there is a cofee bar involved
Whats the best to break a bead loose....?
As in if they’re set up tubeless and you need to take them of the tyre? I’ll ask Nico but I’d say pushing with your thumbs close together
Missed why he used a heat gun on the pads. Why please?
It’s to burn off any oil or chemicals on them that may come from general road muck contamination causing them to squeak
Sorry, but should never jet wash a customers bike unless its getting a full strip down after. He also mentions using a teflon spray. The mucoff maintenance spray is teflon free.
Why didn‘t you start at the AMR? Also an infection as so many?
I did start. More information on my last two posts on Instagram
That bike shop is closed down now ☹️. Wonder why?!
Nico left just before it closed. I'm not too sure why but it's a shame! Lovely shop
in repair shop they do not maintain customer bike as would their own bike because they can not spent 1 hour on chain lube
#1 Tip - Be a mechanic! If you want to avoid trips to the shop.
#1 tip would be go on a mechanics course but don’t be afraid to ask a professional for help
The name Cervélo is a portmanteau of cervello, the Italian word for brain, and vélo, the French word for bike.
Correct 👍
What is up with tubers playing the background music so loud? That is not in the background. I wanted to watch but didn't.
Thanks for the feedback. It sounds fine when editing.
Did you listen to it again? Sometimes youtube cranks it up. Maybe it's my tv. I would like to figure it out. @@ChrisHallRides
The only thing I saw were two men flirting with each other. It was cute to see ☺️
Crazy idea, though maybe don't have the background music so loud we can't actually hear the tips the mechanic gives.. 💡 🤦♂️
That is crazy. 🤯
too loud background music, i can not hear what he is saying, even subtitle has same problem
Lost me at Mickoff!!!
So this pro bike mechanic isn’t bothered by the huge amounts of flappy, excess hoses?
He actually cut all the hoses and cables so much shorter, which is why we re-bled the brakes
Cringe thumbnail good vid
What’s wrong with looking at someone and smiling?
You should _definitely_ pronounce the "r"
As a Canadian, I agree!
Phonetically it would be pronounced "sir-velo" 😉
@@canadiancat420 indeed ... sir-veh'-lo
@@malcontent_1 *hat tip*
@@malcontent_1 Thanks! It's been over a decade since I last used phonemes...so I'm a tad rusty.
A lot of stuff sticks to wax. 😂
not really, wax gets washed in 10 minutes if you drive in rain that splashes on chain, bigger problem is to remove mud from chain to be prepared for wax because after rewax, no dirt will go out of chain and that is death sentence for chain
Hey Chris, it would have been a great video if you had left out that horrendous sound track. Not only is it as annoying AF, but the miking on the mechanic is competing with the musical droning throughout. That soundtrack adds NOTHING to this video. Consider keeping future vids straightforward without trying to impress some metalhead who might also be watching.
Thanks for the nice comment.
Biggest tip...learn how to maintain your own bike lol.
Of course. But you’ll learn from a good mechanic
@@ChrisHallRides Yes cannot argue with that, I learnt how to build wheels from a wheelbuilder on TH-cam and a PDF book. Have an enjoyable race.
This mechanic doesn't own this bike and will not reap the damage this "jet washing" does to this bike. Seems like this bike world are over impressed with the "looks" of a clean bike. Water is the enemy.
He’s actually the most careful mechanic I know. So is incredibly careful when using a jet wash. There’s much bigger enemies in this world to water
This mechanic makes the same mistake most do,spray degreaser,bike wash all over the bike then spray off...all onto the bike rotors,awesome. Push pistons back with old pads in.
He actually takes the brake pads out and washed the bike without the wheels.
cost -effective