Check wheels and bottom bracket for looseness, check the chain for stretch, check the hub and chainrings for wear. Check wheels for true and round and dish. Check pedals for too loose or too tight
Overall good tips, maybe one to add is to clean the chain with someting like wd-40 before lubing. In my experience 75% of bad shifting drivetrains come because of inflexible chains which sometimes appear clean but are just too sticky.
I wonder why people use a disc truing fork 😂 i just take off the disc put it in a flat wooden surface and hammer it with a mallet till the thing cries "I'm straight I'm straight" before i install it again. I may be a little crazy but i would also rotate the disc on a flat surface with a filling tool placed on top to make sure the disc is flat or even by it's edges and even just use a heat blower to burn off whatever invisible film you may not be able to see. I do similar for brake pads when giving a through clean, slight filling and heat blowing.
I've been taught to center the calipers (either disc or rim) by unscrewing them until they are loose, then pressing on the lever, so that the pads are pressing on the disc (and thus are centered) then tightening again.
Depends on the problem. If your pistons aren’t clean you’ll just be trying to compensate for a stuck piston that way. You should be able to align the caliper itself to achieve even piston extension if they’re moving freely. The piston position can be way out if you just squeeze the levers to center it
I agree with that. That is what I expected to hear in the video. Is that not a good practice? Doing it "by eye" sounds worse to me (at least with my eyes)
Just like what @@bchearne said. I always did the lever trick, but had scenarios where brake pads were worn out at one side, later found that the piston needed to be cleaned, not that the caliper needed to be moved.
When adjusting a caliper, you can loosen the bolts, then pull on the brake lever, and retighten the bolts while the brake is firmly engaged. The caliper will center perfectly on the disc leaving your brake well-aligned. (This is only for hydraulic brakes that clamp the pad to the disc from both sides. Mechanical brakes that squeeze only one side will need to be carefully aligned as in your video.)
I am absolutely horrible at adjusting gears and derailleurs but one thing I have learned is you can get get different results from adjusting your barrel adjustor on a bike stand and doing it while riding. I personally believe it's better to do it while riding because you are putting stress and pressure on the chain, crank, cassette, and cable so your adjustment will actually hold. But I've found that when adjusting on a bike stand that it will be fine on the bike stand but then once I get on the bike and ride it the adjustment was off. But then again as i mentioned I REALLY suck at adjusting gears, lol.
My barrel adjust is on the deraileur. I shift to the lowest gear, turn the adjuster "too far" then shift to 2nd, (Then it should be still in 1st) then loosen the adjuster on a stand while peddling and wait for it to go into 2nd.
Great video for the basics. Being able to sort disk caliper / pad rub on the trail is an essential skill. But it's also worthy to check back at base that the caliper is centred over the disc. Generally this is easy as most calipers comprise 2 halves bolted together, so the joining face should align with the disc. If not, this may indicate stiction of 1 piston (or piston set) due to disk residue or grit build up around the exposed part of the piston. A good clean of the assembly with the pads removed will usually sort this to new. Cleaning the piston actually involves a bit more work in terms of actuating the brakes to expose more surface, but beware not to pop a piston and remember to push the pistons back carefully with a strong plastic lever (be especially careful levering ceramic pistons).
Thanks! I had no idea what the barrel adjuster was, but when i heard you discussing it in this video I immediately knew that was what i needed to fiddle with to fix my shifting issue. For some reason, my rd was very far away from the wheel and I actually had to turn my asjuster clockwise to release my rd back in towards the wheel/frame.
Great video Anna, thanks. Some things I knew, some I didn't, but all useful to be reminded about and see demonstrated. Main new lesson for me: what the hooks are for on tyre levers! Why had I never been told that before! lol
If you've just fixed a flat, reinstalled your wheel and you're getting brake rub that you weren't before, it's almost always that you're wheel isn't centered. Make sure it's centered before messing with caliper adjustment.
Great video, thanks. I had never come close to my bike's headset. Probably because I've never felt the need, wich is a good sign, but I'll be more confident if I ever have to.
I knew there would be something in here i didnt know, i seen the disc bender tool in the shop the other day and woundered what it was, thanks!!!! Now i need one for my toolbag 😂
10:29 if your caliper gets out of whack you should clean the pistons before you realign it. It’s probably gone wonky because the pistons are sticking a bit and the problem will just recur if you don’t take the time to get the grit off the pistons
Thanks #Anna, much appreciated. Maybe next video a trail side tubeless puncture repair? I've seen the plug kits and co2 canisters for emergency plug and inflate but I have never used one.
@@AnnaOnTheBike My fault, you did and I went back and watched it. I'm curious, do you always carry a pump as part of your kit instead of the quick inflate CO2? I was thinking it might be easier to carry it on the bike instead of a pump so I don't have to carry a bag. I currently carry no tools but I want to with some big rides coming up. Thanks
Good video. You don't mention how to ensure the headset isn't too tight. I pick up the bike from the saddle nose, allowing the front wheel to hang with the steerer tube roughly vertical and swing the wheel (or handlebars) to one side and let go. The front end should smoothly swing back to center with an oscillation or two. If it can't, loosen pinch bolts, loosen the top bolt an eighth of a turn or so. Retorque the pinch bolts and repeat checks. You can also check by riding hands off. If you crash right away it was too tight.
For the caliper alignment issue, you can also remove the brake pads from the caliper and give a little bit more tension to your pad spring that hold the pads in place, it's made of stainless steel. Just pull it appart gently in order to make the opening a bit wider, then put back your pads in the caliper. The pads will now have a little bit more facility to come back closer to the pistons than before, therefore clearing your brake disc more easy.
Measuring your fork's/damper's travel with a ruler might not be a good idea. My 160mm Fox 36 stanchions measure 170mm from seal to crown and my Float X measures 65mm even though it's 60mm. Same with my 140mm X-Fusion Sweep Boost, it's 150mm seal to crown. Check the manufacturer website for information if you're unsure what travel is your suspension. Fox for example offers an easy to use tool where you put the serial number of your fork/damper and it gives you the exact specification as well as set up and service manuals.
Near 9:24 the Park Tool Torque wrench is used to loosen a bolt. The instructions with mine wrench say that this will cause the wrench to no longer be calibrated. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment.
At low torque it won't mess with your calibration on a proper torque wrench to undo a bolt. These torque tools however are fixed in reverse, friction slip torque for forwards, so again, all good for low torque undo-ing :)
When I was 11 years old, six decades ago, I soaked up maintenance skills by osmosis. Dad was a commercial airline mechanic. My brothers and I started out servicing dirty bearings on our skateboards, detail stripping, solvent washing, greasing, reassembling, and properly tensioning cone and jamb nuts. We quickly graduated to bicycle work, fixing flats, servicing wheel and bottom bracket bearings, replacing shift and brake cables and brake pads, etc. No TH-cam, no Park Tool manuals, but a well equipped shop, and Dad available for expert advice. The bikes were ours, and it was assumed that we would handle routine maintenance; it was part of the air we breathed. A few years back I was in my local bike shop, and was shocked and appalled that people were bringing in bikes to have flat tires repaired. My older brother in the Bay Area goes around every week and picks up bicycles put out on the curb for the garbage men to haul to the dump, cleans, repairs, and adjusts them and then sells them for $100 - $200. He disparages the modern generation who “don’t know which way to turn a screwdriver.” Kudos to people like you and others for helping people develop the skills and confidence to have the agency to do minor maintenance.
I HAD to learn a lot of maintenance due to the amount of riding I put on my eMTB... If I didn't my costs would be astronomical even more so than they already are. YIKES!
Adjusting the brake disc.....set the tension of the brake that you like then loosen the boltz.....spin the tire and grab the brake and hold it and tighten the two boltz...now centered on your brake tension
Excellent video! This was very helpful, especially so because both the problems and their solutions were clearly defined and effectively addressed. Strong work!
In the case of recent canyon bikes, the issue is the plastic headset, the only way to actually get rid of issues with it (lose, squeaky, etc) is to replace plastic spacers with metal ones and replace the top cap with a metal one. It is a travesty that canyon still ships that piece of garbage of a headset and gets away with it
Great video. As someone who has used torque wrenches all of my professional life, recommend only using them for bolt-on torquing operations to make sue they stay within calibration. Torque wrenches are generally made to go in one direction, and using them in reverse can cause their torque settings to drift.
I dont know up or down nearly on a road bike. Looking at a Ridley grifn allroad with 105 group set and Shimano RS171 DB wheels. It is any good for a new cyclist?
Hi that was good to watch I have problems with my bike every time I change gear going up hill and down I get a rattle from the back of my bike any idea what could cause that thanks
Never knew there’s tire puncture glue, good to know !! Love your videos Anna 🤘…but I don’t think anybody will ever pull a star nut out tightening the headset preload bolt, the bearings will crush before that ever happens … cheers 🍻
Oh it's easy enough to do. I've eeen this happen to a few folks who somehow didn't have enough headset spacers and they kept tightening the headset screw. In fact, if I have to remove a starnut (installing EDC multitool) and the starnut is close to the top of the head tube, instead of pounding it to the bottom, I use a bunch of headset spacers and the screw to tighten it out the top.
edit: ...the "bearing seals" would crush... ... if a star nut can pull UP that easily, then it's either installed wrong (bent) or something is out of tolerance, like the nut itself or the fork. In some cases they can be pushed through the bottom for removal, but not all fork steertubes are wide enough to let this happen
That will save you a lot of money! But gravity bleeds aren't as effective as you'd think, best this to do is read how your brakes manufacturer recommend to bleed the brakes 🤙
The gap in-between disc & pad is that small, to do it by eye would be quite difficult. Loosen bolts, grab a handful of lever, re-tighten bolts. If that doesn't work, try a disc brake guide.
Add: Grab the lever so that the brake is just starting to bite and spin the wheel the opposite direction it normally goes then squeeze the brake the rest of the way before you tighten the bolts.
This only works if your brakes are in good order and your pistons activate evenly. It doesn't always turn out that way. Hence I wanted to explain an alternative method that always works for me - by eye. 😉
3:04 thats actually WRONG You adjust the barrel adjuster 1 maybe 2 clicks, THEN you shift one gear back and one gear forward. If done correctly you will need less total clicks on the barrel adjuster to go into bigger gear when shifting. Most people go too far on the adjustment because they dont test the shifting and simply "wait" until it automatically shifts one gear up while adjusting.
I always tell people if the chain is having issues moving left on the cassette turn the barrel left and if it’s having issues moving right then turn it to the right.
Great tips! With bike prices as obscene as they are, even with "sales", it's a shame to have your bike ride like a cheap department store bike because you don't know how to tweak the setup.
You don't align your brakes by eye. You loosen the caliper bolts, apply the brakes, and then tighten the bolts. Then, they are perfectly straight in the position at which they are clamping.
I am posing the following question to any bike experts who know a lot about hydraulic brakes. This question concerns a recent real life situation. What do you think of a bike manufacturer who sends a customer a $1400 bike with DOT4 oil in both hydraulic brake reservoirs that were clearly labeled "MINERAL OIL"? The customer wondered why ALL his brake fluid leaked out at around 970 miles.
You know what's the scary bit? that there is a need to make these videos (and I know there is!) People tend to just leave the bike's adjustments and service to the mechanics and I think everyone should do their own maintenance. Reliance on someone else is silly. The number of times I see people just not have their bikes ready because it's at the mechanics is staggering! (and the money they spend 😬)
She’s Certainly knowledgeable her advice and her ability to explain in a clear and understandable big thumbs up from me.. 😍😍😍 🤫🤫🤫🤫 she’s not wearing any rings either….
🔧Do you have any maintenance tips and tricks that you think are essential? Please share them in the comments below! 👇
Check wheels and bottom bracket for looseness, check the chain for stretch, check the hub and chainrings for wear. Check wheels for true and round and dish. Check pedals for too loose or too tight
Overall good tips, maybe one to add is to clean the chain with someting like wd-40 before lubing.
In my experience 75% of bad shifting drivetrains come because of inflexible chains which sometimes appear clean but are just too sticky.
And check and adjust all cables
I wonder why people use a disc truing fork 😂 i just take off the disc put it in a flat wooden surface and hammer it with a mallet till the thing cries "I'm straight I'm straight" before i install it again. I may be a little crazy but i would also rotate the disc on a flat surface with a filling tool placed on top to make sure the disc is flat or even by it's edges and even just use a heat blower to burn off whatever invisible film you may not be able to see. I do similar for brake pads when giving a through clean, slight filling and heat blowing.
Obviously for 6 bolt brake rotors you can do both sides but for lock rotors only the side facing upwards when placed flat.
I've been taught to center the calipers (either disc or rim) by unscrewing them until they are loose, then pressing on the lever, so that the pads are pressing on the disc (and thus are centered) then tightening again.
I also learned it that way..
I'm a professional mechanic, that is exactly how you do it.
Depends on the problem. If your pistons aren’t clean you’ll just be trying to compensate for a stuck piston that way. You should be able to align the caliper itself to achieve even piston extension if they’re moving freely. The piston position can be way out if you just squeeze the levers to center it
I agree with that. That is what I expected to hear in the video. Is that not a good practice? Doing it "by eye" sounds worse to me (at least with my eyes)
Just like what @@bchearne said. I always did the lever trick, but had scenarios where brake pads were worn out at one side, later found that the piston needed to be cleaned, not that the caliper needed to be moved.
When adjusting a caliper, you can loosen the bolts, then pull on the brake lever, and retighten the bolts while the brake is firmly engaged. The caliper will center perfectly on the disc leaving your brake well-aligned. (This is only for hydraulic brakes that clamp the pad to the disc from both sides. Mechanical brakes that squeeze only one side will need to be carefully aligned as in your video.)
I can't thank you enough and just like that I fixed two of the little problems I had on my trusty bike. Thanks for the timely reminder. Best wishes
I am absolutely horrible at adjusting gears and derailleurs but one thing I have learned is you can get get different results from adjusting your barrel adjustor on a bike stand and doing it while riding. I personally believe it's better to do it while riding because you are putting stress and pressure on the chain, crank, cassette, and cable so your adjustment will actually hold. But I've found that when adjusting on a bike stand that it will be fine on the bike stand but then once I get on the bike and ride it the adjustment was off. But then again as i mentioned I REALLY suck at adjusting gears, lol.
😄😄
Adjust it on the stand then tweak it when riding if required.
Resetting the caliper pistons is also essential in order to center the caliper properly. Cleaning the rotor and the brake pads as well.
Agreed. I feel a "Part 2" coming on... ;)
I’m great at setting up sag on my rigid hardtail.
Great video! The more often I see different ways to do things the more confident I get to maintain my bike myself.
Barrel adjust while riding cant beleive ive never thought of that tip makes so much sense 😊
Works too
Let us know how you get on!
My barrel adjust is on the deraileur. I shift to the lowest gear, turn the adjuster "too far" then shift to 2nd, (Then it should be still in 1st) then loosen the adjuster on a stand while peddling and wait for it to go into 2nd.
I actually loosen my brake calliper, squeeze the brake and tightebìn the calliper; it always seems to work.
Same
That's a great tip, doesn't always work. Especially for 4 piston brakes, but it creates a good starting point to make adjustments from!
Yea i noticed that with my new e4 hope 4 piston brakes, i still have to adjust by eye 😊
Great video for the basics. Being able to sort disk caliper / pad rub on the trail is an essential skill. But it's also worthy to check back at base that the caliper is centred over the disc. Generally this is easy as most calipers comprise 2 halves bolted together, so the joining face should align with the disc. If not, this may indicate stiction of 1 piston (or piston set) due to disk residue or grit build up around the exposed part of the piston. A good clean of the assembly with the pads removed will usually sort this to new. Cleaning the piston actually involves a bit more work in terms of actuating the brakes to expose more surface, but beware not to pop a piston and remember to push the pistons back carefully with a strong plastic lever (be especially careful levering ceramic pistons).
Thanks! I had no idea what the barrel adjuster was, but when i heard you discussing it in this video I immediately knew that was what i needed to fiddle with to fix my shifting issue. For some reason, my rd was very far away from the wheel and I actually had to turn my asjuster clockwise to release my rd back in towards the wheel/frame.
I got to say your works are clear you know stuff and your beautiful and smart great to see such confidence
Great video Anna, thanks. Some things I knew, some I didn't, but all useful to be reminded about and see demonstrated. Main new lesson for me: what the hooks are for on tyre levers! Why had I never been told that before! lol
Haha! I guess you don't know until you know! Thanks for the kudos. :)
This was extremely helpful, thank you for making it simple. A lot of the stuff, especially derailuer I thought was a lot more complicated
If you've just fixed a flat, reinstalled your wheel and you're getting brake rub that you weren't before, it's almost always that you're wheel isn't centered. Make sure it's centered before messing with caliper adjustment.
wow amazing explanation I am grateful to find this video. you have eloquent speech and know what you are talking about, bless your soul
Great video, thanks.
I had never come close to my bike's headset. Probably because I've never felt the need, wich is a good sign, but I'll be more confident if I ever have to.
which vs wich
simple, and most importantly understandable
Excellent tech video. Clear advice and additional information on details that can really save you time and effort.
For a novice new to MTB this was massively helpful, thank you
Have fun !!!!!!!
WOW!!! Thank you very much for all the information. I just got an xtra cycle ridge runner cargo bike. And I’ll be using all the tips on it.
I knew there would be something in here i didnt know, i seen the disc bender tool in the shop the other day and woundered what it was, thanks!!!! Now i need one for my toolbag 😂
10:29 if your caliper gets out of whack you should clean the pistons before you realign it. It’s probably gone wonky because the pistons are sticking a bit and the problem will just recur if you don’t take the time to get the grit off the pistons
Brilliant video,I will definitely using your tips in the future as I have not bought a brand new bike 👍🏻
What bike have you got? 👀
Thanks #Anna, much appreciated. Maybe next video a trail side tubeless puncture repair? I've seen the plug kits and co2 canisters for emergency plug and inflate but I have never used one.
I recently did a "How to fix a tubeless puncture" video on GMBN Tech, which should explain all, so check that out! I hope it helps. :)
@@AnnaOnTheBike My fault, you did and I went back and watched it. I'm curious, do you always carry a pump as part of your kit instead of the quick inflate CO2? I was thinking it might be easier to carry it on the bike instead of a pump so I don't have to carry a bag. I currently carry no tools but I want to with some big rides coming up. Thanks
Good video. You don't mention how to ensure the headset isn't too tight. I pick up the bike from the saddle nose, allowing the front wheel to hang with the steerer tube roughly vertical and swing the wheel (or handlebars) to one side and let go. The front end should smoothly swing back to center with an oscillation or two. If it can't, loosen pinch bolts, loosen the top bolt an eighth of a turn or so. Retorque the pinch bolts and repeat checks.
You can also check by riding hands off. If you crash right away it was too tight.
For the caliper alignment issue, you can also remove the brake pads from the caliper and give a little bit more tension to your pad spring that hold the pads in place, it's made of stainless steel.
Just pull it appart gently in order to make the opening a bit wider, then put back your pads in the caliper.
The pads will now have a little bit more facility to come back closer to the pistons than before, therefore clearing your brake disc more easy.
Measuring your fork's/damper's travel with a ruler might not be a good idea. My 160mm Fox 36 stanchions measure 170mm from seal to crown and my Float X measures 65mm even though it's 60mm. Same with my 140mm X-Fusion Sweep Boost, it's 150mm seal to crown. Check the manufacturer website for information if you're unsure what travel is your suspension. Fox for example offers an easy to use tool where you put the serial number of your fork/damper and it gives you the exact specification as well as set up and service manuals.
Near 9:24 the Park Tool Torque wrench is used to loosen a bolt. The instructions with mine wrench say that this will cause the wrench to no longer be calibrated. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment.
At low torque it won't mess with your calibration on a proper torque wrench to undo a bolt. These torque tools however are fixed in reverse, friction slip torque for forwards, so again, all good for low torque undo-ing :)
You empowered me to have a go myself at adjusting my bike thanks
When I was 11 years old, six decades ago, I soaked up maintenance skills by osmosis. Dad was a commercial airline mechanic. My brothers and I started out servicing dirty bearings on our skateboards, detail stripping, solvent washing, greasing, reassembling, and properly tensioning cone and jamb nuts. We quickly graduated to bicycle work, fixing flats, servicing wheel and bottom bracket bearings, replacing shift and brake cables and brake pads, etc. No TH-cam, no Park Tool manuals, but a well equipped shop, and Dad available for expert advice. The bikes were ours, and it was assumed that we would handle routine maintenance; it was part of the air we breathed.
A few years back I was in my local bike shop, and was shocked and appalled that people were bringing in bikes to have flat tires repaired. My older brother in the Bay Area goes around every week and picks up bicycles put out on the curb for the garbage men to haul to the dump, cleans, repairs, and adjusts them and then sells them for $100 - $200. He disparages the modern generation who “don’t know which way to turn a screwdriver.”
Kudos to people like you and others for helping people develop the skills and confidence to have the agency to do minor maintenance.
I HAD to learn a lot of maintenance due to the amount of riding I put on my eMTB...
If I didn't my costs would be astronomical even more so than they already are. YIKES!
Adjusting the brake disc.....set the tension of the brake that you like then loosen the boltz.....spin the tire and grab the brake and hold it and tighten the two boltz...now centered on your brake tension
Very helpful, thanks. More please!!
Nice tips Anna way to make it simple and easy how could you not do these things
Excellent video! This was very helpful, especially so because both the problems and their solutions were clearly defined and effectively addressed. Strong work!
In the case of recent canyon bikes, the issue is the plastic headset, the only way to actually get rid of issues with it (lose, squeaky, etc) is to replace plastic spacers with metal ones and replace the top cap with a metal one. It is a travesty that canyon still ships that piece of garbage of a headset and gets away with it
Very good video!
Great video!
Lovely video, thank you, very helpful
Great video. As someone who has used torque wrenches all of my professional life, recommend only using them for bolt-on torquing operations to make sue they stay within calibration. Torque wrenches are generally made to go in one direction, and using them in reverse can cause their torque settings to drift.
The toppest of tippage, Anna! 👌🏻
Getting the tyre back on - you also have a sh@t load of luv on the rim, not mentioned in the vid - but this helps a lot.
Super helpful. Great vid.
Great video thanks!
I dont know up or down nearly on a road bike. Looking at a Ridley grifn allroad with 105 group set and Shimano RS171 DB wheels. It is any good for a new cyclist?
Hi that was good to watch I have problems with my bike every time I change gear going up hill and down I get a rattle from the back of my bike any idea what could cause that thanks
Very helpful. Thanks
Like how the shirt matches the bike color - lol! Great info!
I aim to please! All our sweaters and tees are available in the GMBN Shop ;)
Never knew there’s tire puncture glue, good to know !! Love your videos Anna 🤘…but I don’t think anybody will ever pull a star nut out tightening the headset preload bolt, the bearings will crush before that ever happens … cheers 🍻
I've actually pulled a star nut out... it's easier than you think when you start out and don't watch GMBN tech... only did it once though...
Oh it's easy enough to do. I've eeen this happen to a few folks who somehow didn't have enough headset spacers and they kept tightening the headset screw. In fact, if I have to remove a starnut (installing EDC multitool) and the starnut is close to the top of the head tube, instead of pounding it to the bottom, I use a bunch of headset spacers and the screw to tighten it out the top.
edit: ...the "bearing seals" would crush...
... if a star nut can pull UP that easily, then it's either installed wrong (bent) or something is out of tolerance, like the nut itself or the fork. In some cases they can be pushed through the bottom for removal, but not all fork steertubes are wide enough to let this happen
Could you send me a link to adjusting simple (not adjustable) front forks ?
Fantastic thank you!
Thank you dear Anna
awesome help..thanks a lot
Be able to do a lever bleed of the brakes.
I just let gravity do it
That will save you a lot of money! But gravity bleeds aren't as effective as you'd think, best this to do is read how your brakes manufacturer recommend to bleed the brakes 🤙
Can you post a list and link of the tools used please
The gap in-between disc & pad is that small, to do it by eye would be quite difficult. Loosen bolts, grab a handful of lever, re-tighten bolts. If that doesn't work, try a disc brake guide.
The gap is actually quite big! Holding a white sheet of paper behind the calliper while you're adjusting can help you see those gaps 👀
thanks!!!!
Love this from a lady ! Thank you
Most helpful. Thank you so much for this video. Appreciate it. Namaste 🙏🏽
on my tourque wrench it says not to use it too loosen bolts. Only tightening.
Yes, torque wrench is for only tightening fasteners. Using them for loosening fasteners only damages them. Hence the warning on your wrench.
To Alighn a Disk Brake Caliper...You Sqeeze the Lever...Hold it...Then you tighten the bolt's.
Exactly- this is the only correct way to do it. Not „by eye”…
Add: Grab the lever so that the brake is just starting to bite and spin the wheel the opposite direction it normally goes then squeeze the brake the rest of the way before you tighten the bolts.
This only works if your brakes are in good order and your pistons activate evenly. It doesn't always turn out that way. Hence I wanted to explain an alternative method that always works for me - by eye. 😉
She speaks truth 👆🏼
I’ve tried this about 1,000 times and it has worked about 0 times.
you mentioned how to calculate SAG but didn't show how to actually set it... any links to vids on that?
Here's a good one: gmbn.eu/suspensionwork
3:04 thats actually WRONG
You adjust the barrel adjuster 1 maybe 2 clicks, THEN you shift one gear back and one gear forward. If done correctly you will need less total clicks on the barrel adjuster to go into bigger gear when shifting. Most people go too far on the adjustment because they dont test the shifting and simply "wait" until it automatically shifts one gear up while adjusting.
Yep
totally unrelated but what gold hubs are you using Anna?
She’s awesome!🎉
I always tell people if the chain is having issues moving left on the cassette turn the barrel left and if it’s having issues moving right then turn it to the right.
how to tight the brake? or just relace it?
@@TommyM2000 what style brake you got, hydraulic or cable ?
Thank you
You're welcome 🛠️
Why not 170 multiplied by .3 (%30)?!
I just wanted people to know it was a percentage, i.e. out of 100. But yes, that's works too! 😄
On some rims or with some tyres, removing tubeless or tubeless ready tyres is an absolute pain 😭
Does anybody have a Newton meter to ugga dugga conversion chart
Ugga dugga on a bike is brave!
Super video ! Ca m'a permis de confirmer ce que je pensais ! See you !
Fabulous video. Yes to showing female bike mechanics!
Good video
Amazing 🎉
How do I set the sag?
Great tips! With bike prices as obscene as they are, even with "sales", it's a shame to have your bike ride like a cheap department store bike because you don't know how to tweak the setup.
You don't align your brakes by eye. You loosen the caliper bolts, apply the brakes, and then tighten the bolts. Then, they are perfectly straight in the position at which they are clamping.
Forgot to mention tyre direction arrow on side wall.
Beautiful and lovely accent!
An easier way is to fly Anna to your house and have her tune it. That is if you're rich
Or head to your local bike shop... 😂
No no, @@gmbntech , let him fly me to far away lands! I can't handle it! 😜
I am posing the following question to any bike experts who know a lot about hydraulic brakes. This question concerns a recent real life situation. What do you think of a bike manufacturer who sends a customer a $1400 bike with DOT4 oil in both hydraulic brake reservoirs that were clearly labeled "MINERAL OIL"? The customer wondered why ALL his brake fluid leaked out at around 970 miles.
Hope I can fix my rattle
Good video but I sure would like to see them work on a bike that get rode by a person not a brand new 7k bike.
You know what's the scary bit? that there is a need to make these videos (and I know there is!)
People tend to just leave the bike's adjustments and service to the mechanics and I think everyone should do their own maintenance.
Reliance on someone else is silly. The number of times I see people just not have their bikes ready because it's at the mechanics is staggering! (and the money they spend 😬)
She’s Certainly knowledgeable her advice and her ability to explain in a clear and understandable big thumbs up from me..
😍😍😍
🤫🤫🤫🤫 she’s not wearing any rings either….
I’ve had long goat heads give me pin hole leaks. Super glue is a quick easy fix
I'm a newly qualified female autistic mechanic.
Thanks for posting this we need more females
1st. Good tips
You're too cool.
You can simply just multiply 170x.3 (30%)=51
When I watch your videos I have you tube premium 😮
What's up skid Marks
Once you start slacking callipers it’s usually never right
❤❤❤
Took me a second to figure out what anti clockwise was.
I bet it's often harder to make a cheaper quality bike work right.
hack: your calculator app has a percentage button. 170 > press % > type 30 > 51 😮 😅
Thank you for your work! It’s your ministry & your witness for Jesus. The Bible is a book that reveals but also one that historically true.
Religion is bullshit,get rid of religion and 80% of child abuse would disappear.