My 2 cents...as part of my post-ride routine maintenance, first thing I do for drivetrain cleaning is take a scrub brush (used dry, no solvent) and scrub the rear cassette. Gets off a lot of road grime, which prevents a dirty cassette from re-contaminating a freshly cleaned and lubed chain. Thanks for posting a good, sensible tune-up routine. I've been doing essentially the same routine as what you posted, for years. I get great mileage for my chains, cassettes, and rings. And I start every ride with a clean bike, pristine drivetrain, & tested brakes. Takes about 10 min to hit the important stuff post ride. Over time, you get to really know your bike well, and can catch problems early so they don't surprise you on a ride. Having a workstand really makes the routine easy. That was a good suggestion!
Are you riding every working day, 5 days a week to job and back? Do you spend more 40 min to each ride to work? Do you live in appartment? Please explain how you find time to this after each ride...
@@abupinhusat first I thought this was going to be one of those ads that started off saying do you do this for this amount of time If so we got the perfect thing for you to buy😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you. Despite some of the comments, this has to be the most concise, intelligent, and entertaining preventative maintenance videos I have ever listened to. I look forward to "flossing my nether regions" next time.
It's a mantra with me, whether I'm talking to a customer at the shop, a fellow rider on the road or trail, or someone admiring my shiny clean bike at the coffee shop: keep your bike clean, and you'll find little problems before they become big problems. Even if you don't know how to fix it yourself, or don't have time, or don't want to be your own mechanic, keep it clean for the mechanic you trust to fix it for you. 😁
A better way to check for inner tube leaks is to fill a sink or a mop bucket with soapy water, inflate the tube, dunk it and rotate it until bubbles appear, where the bubbles are coming from is where the hole is, I've done it many times when patching tubes it can be done on the side of the road too if there's clear water in a pond or ditch.
Thanks for clarifying your confidence in budget Shimano components. I'm not a brand loyalist so it's nice to hear what "works" especially when one is flipping bikes.
I am sure it is obvious to you and me, and I imagine you have covered it in other videos, but before making derailleur adjustments, check the chain for wear; a worn chain will definitely impact shifting performance. Then, for the rear derailleur, it must be confirmed that the hanger is not bent, the hub bearings are not loose, and if it is a freehub, the cassette lockring is torqued so the cassette is not loose. Also, for a front derailleur, the bottom bracket must not have bearing play, and the cage is confirmed to be parallel and mounted at the proper height. It amazes me how many bikes come from the factory with the front derailleur improperly mounted.
I’m no bike mechanic, but I’ve restored, maintained, and rebuilt enough bikes to hear that the gears needed some fine tuning. Excellent video. Thank you!👍🏼
I used to use Pledge furniture polish on my motorcycles as a final clean/wax. I didn't realize I could use it on my cycle. Awesome, thank you. 🙂 I've just finished watching the whole video and you're totally right. It's what I do with my bikes although I usually only do it once per year and adjust as needed. Once a month is a good idea and maybe I will change to a few times per year as I'm probably too lazy to be committed enough for every month. Life kind of gets in the way but a great idea.
It's popular with small airplanes, too. The Lemon Pledge (gotta be lemon) on the leading edges before flying really make it easy to wipe off the bugs and junk afterwards. Some people also use it to polish the plastic windscreens on small planes. If you go to small plane fly-ins like the one in Oshkosh, WI, you'll get a good whiff.
@@garrettnievin5812 It has silicone in it. Bad for wooden furniture if you ever want to restore the finish, it repels stain, and finishes. Nearly impossible to remove.
If you every come across LA's Totally Awesome wheel and Tire cleaner buy a bottle that stuff is great for tires revitalizes the grip and cleans it like new I swear by that stuff I love it.
Awesome video! I would like to add that ever since I moved to a waxed chain the performance of my drivetrain has improved considerably. Virtually silent, smooth and clean. I will never go back to lube!
Went back on videos to watch this one. Excellent overview of basic tune up. Excellent Andy for many bikers of all skill levels. Another excellent job, keep up the good work. Explanations for all your doing👍.
Brother, that move at 13:30 to drop the rear shifter cable housing to lube the cable... Have I been living under a rock??? So nice, i ran out to the shop and did it on my gravel bike. Awesome new (to me) tip. Thank you!
Thanks for this from me, too.. I've been maintaining bikes for 40 years and never realized how easily I could clean and lubricate this curved bit of cable that's critical to smooth shifting.
I use a couple of old spoons to lever the tyre off. I use the head of the spoon to check the inside of the tyre to check for nails, glass, etc. If the glass or nail is sharp, I have received cuts using my fingers.
@BikeFarmer: Andy, a question about the electrical tape you used: Have you ever thought about using hockey grip tape for finishing tape? I've used hockey grip tape before, and it works wonders for other things.
Great stuff here! I just bought this very model bike a week ago. Needs Bar tape clean & tune up. The next video i watched was the Trek Mom bike restore. (my OTHER bike is a 2007 Trek 7400) Again, Great pointers.
Thanks for a great video (and channel)...freshly subscribed. I've been riding for almost 60 years with various bikes but had to take a 3 year hiatus due to retiring and moving and life in general...I dragged my bikes out a week ago and they were dirty! broke them down a cleaned them up, made needed adjustments etc. One thing I learned from trying to clean between the gears in the cassette was to use a piece of 3/16ths rope (or whatever size fits snugly between the gears) soaked in degreaser...simple green or whatever. I use it to "floss" the nether regions and it works great. It doesn't get caught on the gears like a rag. I had to learn to do most of my own wrenching because the only decent repair shop in the area I lived in had a 3-4 week backlog almost all the time and as a kid, I barely had enough cash to buy a tube repair kit. Where I moved to (southern Missouri) has like one or two bike shops inside a hours drive but they are booked solid as well.
Thanks for the content, I've learned alot from you, with that being said i have come across a 1993 Trek Antelope 800 26 inch that im condidering in giving it life again.
I had a flat tire like this last year on my brand new bike - couldn't find the hole by listening, it seemed to keep the air - but was flat again the next day. Found the hole with water, and luckily I could find the place in the tire (had marked the valve position): there was a small small thorn sticking from the outside, you couldn't even feel it from the inside! I assume it pressed into the tube during the ride making the small hole. So: it is _always_ a good idea to find the hole if possible!
I really appreciate your philosophy towards bikes. It's refreshing. Your content is interesting to me because you're just being you. I only just discovered you two days ago. Keep it up man, sending good vibes from Australia.
Tip: On cheap handlebar tape use under this tape some sport-tape (along the top off your "naked" alu-handlebar. It will give extra friction for the cheap handlebar tape. So the cheap tape will not move when your riding.
Based on The Bike Farmer's suggestion, I bought a 4-pack of Dawn Powerwash. - And it works so well, gets so much dirt from my wheels, almost every wipe, one after another, that I have to wonder if it removes a lot of rubber particles from the tires. - And I also like his One Step product suggestion, but wonder, how could it possibly both clean AND lubricate? Huh? I also bought a big bottle of Tri-Lube I think it's called. The problem with it, is, as long as the straw is attached to it, the bottle falls over and starts leaking out of the bottle at the drop of a hat. So, I have to store it in a coffee cup, so it won't get knocked over. I'm learning so much from this channel, I could open my own bike shop!
If you have rim brakes, you can use the brake pads. Clamp down on the brakes a bit, for example with a zip tie, so that it's just rubbing. Or, even better imo, attach a zip tie to the frame next to the rim, cut it down to the right length so it's barely touching the rim and use it as a gauge. That works really well actually, up to a run out of only tenths of millimeters, which is plenty good enough. There's tons of videos out there already on how to do it.
you can use a zip tie or a cute invention that you can attach to your seat stay, but its not ideal for a proper wheel true because there's a lot more to wheel true than just wobble. and that can stem a longer rabbit hole. If you are looking to improve your skills, having a truing stand is worth it. or if your wheels go out of true a lot.
That looks like a Shimano Sora STI up front. Anyhow, this is a great vid for riders that would like to tinker and know basics on maintaining their gears. I had to learn DYIs on this prior to learning the basics and newbie ways via youtube. Great stuff!
Waterless wash and wax spray on everything except braking surfaces, tyre tread and drive train. After a ride, mist spray from a hose get's even UK mud off. If there is any mud sticking, means the wax has worn thin, so wash and wax on that bit and you are good to go. I love the stuff.
I bought the cheapest RockBROS bike stand ~ $36, attached it to my wooden workbench, and just returned it for a West Biking Bike Stand. - About $9 more, but probably worth it, as the RockBROS stand couldn't hold my bike level when attached to my seatpost. - It would allow the front end to within an inch or two of the floor, as the joint where the Vertical Arm met the Horizontal Arm didn't have a groove, (unlike the clamp to Horizontal Arm connection), and couldn't keep the horizontal arm from twisting under the weight of my Diamondback bike. I probably could've attached the clamp to my Down Tube and had better luck keeping it level, but I originally did it that way, and was concerned the clamp may be restricting my shifter cable - just enough to make my rear derailleur cable adjustment off. - I'm not sure that was happening, but once I got the doubt in my mind, I couldn't not worry about it. I did post a review and about 10 pictures of the RockBROS Bike Stand, with a title like, "Best for rear wheel adjustments". RockBROS sent me an email, saying they could address my concerns, inviting me to contact them back. I almost did, until I realized that, my review and complete pictures should've been enough for them to come back w/ at least one suggestion. EX: They could've stated something like, "You need to tighten the clamp more." or perhaps, "You've got a defective unit. Lets replace it." But No. I got the impression they just replied because they didn't care for my review that rated it at just 3 stars, and thought maybe their attention to me would somehow improve my review. It didn't, because it wasn't a problem w/ Customer Service, or Product Instructions, or anything to do w/ my product choice or use.
I do the half way build an manual seat as well. I have stopped over filling tubes though, because i'm convinced bike tubes are less stretchy than they have been, and i've blown too many tubes over inflating trying to "CHECK" where the hole is.
I seriously doubt that most shops give the bike the detail that you do. If I lived close enough you would surely be my go to shop. Yes me and my Bike will stay tuned.
While not all bike shops are the same there are still some really good ones left , we still have some real bike nerds left in Ohio you would be surprised how much detail thay go into for just a basic repair, just like bike farmer.
What is the attachment on your air hose when pumping up a tire… I haven’t seen this at my local bike shop - maybe a good gift to say thanks for all the help over the years?
One of the first things I do when rebuilding a street find bike is remove the wheels, break down the tire and tubes, inflate the tubes, set them aside and crack on with what ever is next. After a while if they go flat I know the need to be binned. I stopped using patch kits they just fail too much.
Hot tip for disc brake bikes. Don't spray anything directly on the bike. Spray it onto the rag facing away from the bike, then wipe the rag on the bike. Will help prevent your brakes sounding like a Wookie.
I use self amalgamating tape in place of electrical tape, it's the best thing, basically like rubber and sticks to itself by actually fusing together. Electrical tape can sometimes peel off esp. in hot weather, but amalgamating tape won't. Decathlon also sells finishing tape, which feels like better quality insulation tape.
'How to try to jinx yourself in the first ten seconds of a video' 😂 Thanks for the furniture spray tip! Just one thing, the reflector in the back wheel wasn't exactly on the opposite side of the valve, it would have driven me crazy...but unnecessary reflectors alone will have that effect on me. That being said the owner of the bike probably isn't riding the smooth dedicated bicycle paths I am used to.
I don’t have a bike stand and get by quite well. I have 2 small pulleys that hang from hooks attached to the ceiling. I use the pulleys to lift the bike. Usually one rope goes through the stem and the other between the rear stays and the seat tube. I can easily adjust the height as needed. Very simple and flexible. I overhaul around 100 bikes per year.
I did not know either. In addition, it would have been helpful to see video footage of where it is located and how to make that adjustment on the front derailleur. Thanks.
Wash your bike the way you did but use liquid detergent soap dilute in water, use toothbrush to clean the chain, drueller, cogs, pedals, sprocket… then wash thoroughly with spray water until all dirt at soap totally remove… let it thoroughly dry, totally dry… then again, use toothbrush dip in a crude oil ( spoonful crude oil is enough to clean the whole bike), brush the chain, pedal, drueller, cog while rotating your pedal mechanically until you hear that smooth sound.. wipe your bike with clean rug ( cotton) dip in crude oil.. brush bolts, expose cables w crude oil…do this after using your bike for a long ride..remember; a spoonful of crude oil is enough to clean the entire bike… i been using this method for more than 20 years by now…
Great stuff! That chair really brings the tire changing station together. I know you're not a big fan of hydro's, but any chance you could do a pad change and bleed? I have new TRP pads ready to go, hesitant to mess with the system though..
Bleeding hydraulic brakes is 90% reading the service manual and following procedure. If they are really old or a model known to be problematic (Some tekrtros) its becoming common practice to just replace with inexpensive pre bled Shimano's like MT201.
Definitely agree with the first comment from emilycs, I'll add that turning the bike upside down to work on hydraulic brakes can mess the job up, use a stand if possible.
I was waiting to see if you used any sort of polish on the bike after using Dawn. I use dawn to degrease my car before I clay bar it and do a serious wash. I haven’t used furniture polish on my bike but I frequently use waterless wash and wax.
For many years I've regularly sprayed WD40 on my groupset/derailleur and then used a rag to remove the excess. It seems to keep it rust free and running like a sewing machine.
The main difference between the cheap and expensive shifting groups are nowadays mostly the weight benefits and the finish (looks). They almost perform at the same level. For daily users the weight difference (and looks) are unimportant.
Is there any risk of getting that Dawn nuclear wash into the bearings and acting as a degreaser when you're spraying it all around there? I'm guessing not, since you're doing it, which I find exciting, because that stuff really does the job.
the only thing he does wrong is to put oil on the two derailleur's screws, because there is teflon into their threads. Moreover teflon doesn't like oil.
Great tips, nice bike, and good content. An ounce of prevention, as they say....Thanks again! If I lived up your way, you'd be the bike shop of choice I'd frequent. I'd probably get a Park tool thrown at me... LOL.
I'm looking about getting into mountain biking when I get my taxes I want to get more into shape but also too I've been riding bikes and dirt bikes my whole life but I finally got almost 6 years sober off alcohol and almost 8 years clean off all drugs so I want to ride and I like trail riding and stuff because it helps with my ADHD but I'm kind of stuck at what bike to have I have roughly about 4 to 500 dollars to spend on a bike I want a hardtail for sure but I want disc brakes and everything as well but I sub to your channel and this is the only video I watched so far🎉❤❤🎉
When studying the geometry of something like a 1972 Masi, Gran Criterium they were, well… boring. Then from the early 1980s-mid 1980’s we began to build bikes with much more aggressive geometry. Now that we are much more experienced, and much, much older, the bikes are being designed with geometry much like the bikes we grew up with.
Giant Anyroad. Had one for a few months. A good bike but just not thrilled with the geometry. The front center was much too long, and the engineers at Giant must have never read CON1. The dimensions and geometry were just not right. Amazingly, I find many of the old bikes for the late 1960s to the early 1980s to have excellent handling which comes from excellent geometry. Even the Schwinn Paramount was an excellent bike.
weird. you mentioned it in passing, but i was trying to figure out which tier group it was. it has all the hallmarks of a nice crank (and 10s derailleur) from a few years ago but it only has "shimano" on both. I think they're bb7 calipers. this was a decent spec bike when it was new. the spoke guard kinda makes sense with the components though unless it was added later
Occasionally find an ancient bottle of turtlewax or simoniz. Sniff n' shine. Found wire wool was good to rub scratches and ground in-dirt out of hard and glossy paints
Not the first time I've heard the term "cheap tape" (handlebar tape), tape with no stickum on it. So what "good" tape is made by who? My Masi Gran Corsa still has its original handlebar tape, and it really needs to be replaced now. It's a 2015 model I bought in 2017. I love cork tape for it's softness/padding, and for it's stickiness , even wet. I hope for and will be anticipating a response 😁👍
Pretty much exactly how I do it. Comes with repetition, experience. Neglected to true my wheels, at a glance they seem fine. 2600 miles coming up. May as well experiment with bracket oil. ep90.... 🤫
To find a small hole easily I usually sink the filled tire into a bowl of water. The bubbles will come out from where the hole is. But really, with the price of the inner tubes it's usually not even worth fixing it.
We continue to enjoy your channel. Question. I got a bike for grand daughter but it was too big for her. Maybe one more year or less she will grow up. Got it brand new for her. Wanted to know what can I do to prevent it from rusting. Here in Hawaii we have rain and hot and humidity is high. I have in the basement and cover it. But I know with how the weather here in Hawaii it may get some rust. Thanks in advance and aloha.
Oil the chain, that's usually the worst for rust when a bike left sitting. You can just use axle grease or motor oil, get plenty on, then wipe it off when you ready to ride it again. I've used Vaseline in the past too, it's good on chromed parts & exposed cables to prevent rust.
My 2 cents...as part of my post-ride routine maintenance, first thing I do for drivetrain cleaning is take a scrub brush (used dry, no solvent) and scrub the rear cassette. Gets off a lot of road grime, which prevents a dirty cassette from re-contaminating a freshly cleaned and lubed chain. Thanks for posting a good, sensible tune-up routine. I've been doing essentially the same routine as what you posted, for years. I get great mileage for my chains, cassettes, and rings. And I start every ride with a clean bike, pristine drivetrain, & tested brakes. Takes about 10 min to hit the important stuff post ride. Over time, you get to really know your bike well, and can catch problems early so they don't surprise you on a ride. Having a workstand really makes the routine easy. That was a good suggestion!
Are you riding every working day, 5 days a week to job and back? Do you spend more 40 min to each ride to work? Do you live in appartment? Please explain how you find time to this after each ride...
@@abupinhus LOL
@@abupinhusat first I thought this was going to be one of those ads that started off saying do you do this for this amount of time If so we got the perfect thing for you to buy😂😂😂😂😂
"slicker than snot on a door knob " that made me chuckle, new subscriber 👍
Thank you. Despite some of the comments, this has to be the most concise, intelligent, and entertaining preventative maintenance videos I have ever listened to. I look forward to "flossing my nether regions" next time.
It's a mantra with me, whether I'm talking to a customer at the shop, a fellow rider on the road or trail, or someone admiring my shiny clean bike at the coffee shop: keep your bike clean, and you'll find little problems before they become big problems. Even if you don't know how to fix it yourself, or don't have time, or don't want to be your own mechanic, keep it clean for the mechanic you trust to fix it for you. 😁
I once cleaned an entire bike with an old-school handkerchief. Flossing heaven!
A better way to check for inner tube leaks is to fill a sink or a mop bucket with soapy water, inflate the tube, dunk it and rotate it until bubbles appear, where the bubbles are coming from is where the hole is, I've done it many times when patching tubes it can be done on the side of the road too if there's clear water in a pond or ditch.
Or in any toilet!
Or the Birmingham and Fazely canal on a freezing morning!
By the time you go through that hassle, you might as well just put in a new tube. Especially if you’re on the clock like he is.
@pentiuman well yes, but no 😅
If i cant find a small hole in a tube i just cut a big hole in it so i know where the hole is and then replace the tube.
Dawn power wash and furniture polish are new to me. Love it.
Thanks for clarifying your confidence in budget Shimano components. I'm not a brand loyalist so it's nice to hear what "works" especially when one is flipping bikes.
I have the same drivetrain on my Trek and it works very well.
I am sure it is obvious to you and me, and I imagine you have covered it in other videos, but before making derailleur adjustments, check the chain for wear; a worn chain will definitely impact shifting performance. Then, for the rear derailleur, it must be confirmed that the hanger is not bent, the hub bearings are not loose, and if it is a freehub, the cassette lockring is torqued so the cassette is not loose. Also, for a front derailleur, the bottom bracket must not have bearing play, and the cage is confirmed to be parallel and mounted at the proper height. It amazes me how many bikes come from the factory with the front derailleur improperly mounted.
Off by a quarter inch
I’m no bike mechanic, but I’ve restored, maintained, and rebuilt enough bikes to hear that the gears needed some fine tuning. Excellent video. Thank you!👍🏼
I used to use Pledge furniture polish on my motorcycles as a final clean/wax. I didn't realize I could use it on my cycle. Awesome, thank you. 🙂
I've just finished watching the whole video and you're totally right. It's what I do with my bikes although I usually only do it once per year and adjust as needed. Once a month is a good idea and maybe I will change to a few times per year as I'm probably too lazy to be committed enough for every month. Life kind of gets in the way but a great idea.
It's popular with small airplanes, too. The Lemon Pledge (gotta be lemon) on the leading edges before flying really make it easy to wipe off the bugs and junk afterwards. Some people also use it to polish the plastic windscreens on small planes. If you go to small plane fly-ins like the one in Oshkosh, WI, you'll get a good whiff.
@@garrettnievin5812 It has silicone in it. Bad for wooden furniture if you ever want to restore the finish, it repels stain, and finishes. Nearly impossible to remove.
If you every come across LA's Totally Awesome wheel and Tire cleaner buy a bottle that stuff is great for tires revitalizes the grip and cleans it like new I swear by that stuff I love it.
Awesome video! I would like to add that ever since I moved to a waxed chain the performance of my drivetrain has improved considerably. Virtually silent, smooth and clean. I will never go back to lube!
Went back on videos to watch this one. Excellent overview of basic tune up. Excellent Andy for many bikers of all skill levels. Another excellent job, keep up the good work. Explanations for all your doing👍.
Brother, that move at 13:30 to drop the rear shifter cable housing to lube the cable... Have I been living under a rock??? So nice, i ran out to the shop and did it on my gravel bike. Awesome new (to me) tip. Thank you!
Thanks for this from me, too.. I've been maintaining bikes for 40 years and never realized how easily I could clean and lubricate this curved bit of cable that's critical to smooth shifting.
That rear derailleur cable guide loosening trick was really clever, gonna do that tomorrow!
I use a couple of old spoons to lever the tyre off. I use the head of the spoon to check the inside of the tyre to check for nails, glass, etc. If the glass or nail is sharp, I have received cuts using my fingers.
If you occasionally use water hose to wash...use a leaf blower to dry...I do this on my motorcycles...great video thank you.
Enjoyed seeing a tune on a modern bike with disk brakes and internal routing. Don't have any of those bikes yet, but glad I've seen how it works.
Braking with Disc's are cycling bliss.
Loved watching this maintenance video, especially on a Giant AnyRoad. I also give mine a clean and lube about once a month. Lovely bike. Many thanks.
@BikeFarmer: Andy, a question about the electrical tape you used: Have you ever thought about using hockey grip tape for finishing tape? I've used hockey grip tape before, and it works wonders for other things.
Great stuff here! I just bought this very model bike a week ago. Needs Bar tape clean & tune up. The next video i watched was the Trek Mom bike restore. (my OTHER bike is a 2007 Trek 7400) Again, Great pointers.
On the bar tape with no sticky, I use some masking tape on the edge that hides, it won't show and holds down the bar tape
Thanks for a great video (and channel)...freshly subscribed. I've been riding for almost 60 years with various bikes but had to take a 3 year hiatus due to retiring and moving and life in general...I dragged my bikes out a week ago and they were dirty! broke them down a cleaned them up, made needed adjustments etc. One thing I learned from trying to clean between the gears in the cassette was to use a piece of 3/16ths rope (or whatever size fits snugly between the gears) soaked in degreaser...simple green or whatever. I use it to "floss" the nether regions and it works great. It doesn't get caught on the gears like a rag.
I had to learn to do most of my own wrenching because the only decent repair shop in the area I lived in had a 3-4 week backlog almost all the time and as a kid, I barely had enough cash to buy a tube repair kit. Where I moved to (southern Missouri) has like one or two bike shops inside a hours drive but they are booked solid as well.
Thanks for the content, I've learned alot from you, with that being said i have come across a 1993 Trek Antelope 800 26 inch that im condidering in giving it life again.
Thank you BikeFarmer- love your sense of humour!
I had a flat tire like this last year on my brand new bike - couldn't find the hole by listening, it seemed to keep the air - but was flat again the next day.
Found the hole with water, and luckily I could find the place in the tire (had marked the valve position): there was a small small thorn sticking from the outside, you couldn't even feel it from the inside! I assume it pressed into the tube during the ride making the small hole.
So: it is _always_ a good idea to find the hole if possible!
No
@@jerrygreen3818 Why no? A new tube would be punctured by the same thorn.
I really appreciate your philosophy towards bikes. It's refreshing. Your content is interesting to me because you're just being you. I only just discovered you two days ago. Keep it up man, sending good vibes from Australia.
I love the Bob Ross voice while doing the wrap.
Tip: On cheap handlebar tape use under this tape some sport-tape (along the top off your "naked" alu-handlebar. It will give extra friction for the cheap handlebar tape. So the cheap tape will not move when your riding.
Based on The Bike Farmer's suggestion, I bought a 4-pack of Dawn Powerwash. - And it works so well, gets so much dirt from my wheels, almost every wipe, one after another, that I have to wonder if it removes a lot of rubber particles from the tires. - And I also like his One Step product suggestion, but wonder, how could it possibly both clean AND lubricate? Huh? I also bought a big bottle of Tri-Lube I think it's called. The problem with it, is, as long as the straw is attached to it, the bottle falls over and starts leaking out of the bottle at the drop of a hat. So, I have to store it in a coffee cup, so it won't get knocked over. I'm learning so much from this channel, I could open my own bike shop!
Nothing cleans and lubes at the same time. His drive train work is sus. Use a solvent to clean your chain and a lube to lubricate it.
Ya, some people do that. I usually wait until it's critical. I like living on the edge.
He should show us home users, how to true a wheel while it's on the bike! That, would be amazing.
If you have rim brakes, you can use the brake pads. Clamp down on the brakes a bit, for example with a zip tie, so that it's just rubbing. Or, even better imo, attach a zip tie to the frame next to the rim, cut it down to the right length so it's barely touching the rim and use it as a gauge. That works really well actually, up to a run out of only tenths of millimeters, which is plenty good enough. There's tons of videos out there already on how to do it.
you can use a zip tie or a cute invention that you can attach to your seat stay, but its not ideal for a proper wheel true because there's a lot more to wheel true than just wobble. and that can stem a longer rabbit hole. If you are looking to improve your skills, having a truing stand is worth it. or if your wheels go out of true a lot.
He has shown us before as well- probably will again someday
True to that!
@@spitt0110I've never had a truing stand in 40 years of building wheels. You don't " need" one.
That looks like a Shimano Sora STI up front. Anyhow, this is a great vid for riders that would like to tinker and know basics on maintaining their gears. I had to learn DYIs on this prior to learning the basics and newbie ways via youtube. Great stuff!
Waterless wash and wax spray on everything except braking surfaces, tyre tread and drive train. After a ride, mist spray from a hose get's even UK mud off. If there is any mud sticking, means the wax has worn thin, so wash and wax on that bit and you are good to go. I love the stuff.
I use RanX waterless car wash. It leaves a nice wax like finish and makes for an easier clean up next time
Thanks for the tip on the Dawn Powerwash. Ive been using it for a couple weeks now and it even makes my shop smell better after using it!!
I bought the cheapest RockBROS bike stand ~ $36, attached it to my wooden workbench, and just returned it for a West Biking Bike Stand. - About $9 more, but probably worth it, as the RockBROS stand couldn't hold my bike level when attached to my seatpost. - It would allow the front end to within an inch or two of the floor, as the joint where the Vertical Arm met the Horizontal Arm didn't have a groove, (unlike the clamp to Horizontal Arm connection), and couldn't keep the horizontal arm from twisting under the weight of my Diamondback bike. I probably could've attached the clamp to my Down Tube and had better luck keeping it level, but I originally did it that way, and was concerned the clamp may be restricting my shifter cable - just enough to make my rear derailleur cable adjustment off. - I'm not sure that was happening, but once I got the doubt in my mind, I couldn't not worry about it. I did post a review and about 10 pictures of the RockBROS Bike Stand, with a title like, "Best for rear wheel adjustments". RockBROS sent me an email, saying they could address my concerns, inviting me to contact them back. I almost did, until I realized that, my review and complete pictures should've been enough for them to come back w/ at least one suggestion. EX: They could've stated something like, "You need to tighten the clamp more." or perhaps, "You've got a defective unit. Lets replace it." But No. I got the impression they just replied because they didn't care for my review that rated it at just 3 stars, and thought maybe their attention to me would somehow improve my review. It didn't, because it wasn't a problem w/ Customer Service, or Product Instructions, or anything to do w/ my product choice or use.
Sorry to hear about your experience with RockBros. How was the west biking bike stand though?
Hmm, might be getting me some dawn powerwash and some behold. You are a great salesman!
Great video, learned a lot. Still don’t get using concentrated detergent without rinsing, but it seems to work!
I do the half way build an manual seat as well. I have stopped over filling tubes though, because i'm convinced bike tubes are less stretchy than they have been, and i've blown too many tubes over inflating trying to "CHECK" where the hole is.
fastest bar tape wrapping ever lol good job... easy to understand and informative video. i feel like i can do some of that stuff
I'm definitely quite a while from messing with the gears. I basically just cross my fingers and hope the stuff holds together 😅
I seriously doubt that most shops give the bike the detail that you do. If I lived close enough you would surely be my go to shop. Yes me and my Bike will stay tuned.
While not all bike shops are the same there are still some really good ones left , we still have some real bike nerds left in Ohio you would be surprised how much detail thay go into for just a basic repair, just like bike farmer.
What is the attachment on your air hose when pumping up a tire… I haven’t seen this at my local bike shop - maybe a good gift to say thanks for all the help over the years?
I was wondering also nice little tool.
Wouldn’t putting hairspray under the bar tape be a good thing so they don’t slip in the feature
I thoroughly enjoy watching your tuneups. Keep up the good content man.
One of the first things I do when rebuilding a street find bike is remove the wheels, break down the tire and tubes, inflate the tubes, set them aside and crack on with what ever is next. After a while if they go flat I know the need to be binned. I stopped using patch kits they just fail too much.
Pipe cleaners are good to floss, use them on my mountain bike pivots
Hot tip for disc brake bikes. Don't spray anything directly on the bike. Spray it onto the rag facing away from the bike, then wipe the rag on the bike. Will help prevent your brakes sounding like a Wookie.
Thx I'm thinking about a new bike. I have trad center pull brakes.
I use self amalgamating tape in place of electrical tape, it's the best thing, basically like rubber and sticks to itself by actually fusing together. Electrical tape can sometimes peel off esp. in hot weather, but amalgamating tape won't. Decathlon also sells finishing tape, which feels like better quality insulation tape.
'How to try to jinx yourself in the first ten seconds of a video' 😂
Thanks for the furniture spray tip!
Just one thing, the reflector in the back wheel wasn't exactly on the opposite side of the valve, it would have driven me crazy...but unnecessary reflectors alone will have that effect on me. That being said the owner of the bike probably isn't riding the smooth dedicated bicycle paths I am used to.
Having a bike stand makes life so much easier. Wish i had one.
I don’t have a bike stand and get by quite well. I have 2 small pulleys that hang from hooks attached to the ceiling. I use the pulleys to lift the bike. Usually one rope goes through the stem and the other between the rear stays and the seat tube. I can easily adjust the height as needed. Very simple and flexible. I overhaul around 100 bikes per year.
Did not know about trim shift. Next time out, I will see if my bike has trim shift. Thanks!
I did not know either. In addition, it would have been helpful to see video footage of where it is located and how to make that adjustment on the front derailleur. Thanks.
Delighted to see that Machinery Row sticker on the seat tube! My Trek Pilot lives in Berlin now, but has the same one 😊 7:58
Million dollar tip with the polish Brother! Well Done Sir! Cheers - M
i feel you give more attention to the customers bike than most shops. Kudos to you
Great info....ive been riding for several years, im not smart about taking care of my bike! This will help!
Down to earth solid advice. Cycling is fun and this great channel reminds men of that. I’m tired of posh bikes and all the useless gadgets.
What would you suggest for removing sticky or old sticker residue? Also, what to use to remove rust.
I use that stuff and furniture polish it works good like u said in previous videos
Wash your bike the way you did but use liquid detergent soap dilute in water, use toothbrush to clean the chain, drueller, cogs, pedals, sprocket… then wash thoroughly with spray water until all dirt at soap totally remove… let it thoroughly dry, totally dry… then again, use toothbrush dip in a crude oil ( spoonful crude oil is enough to clean the whole bike), brush the chain, pedal, drueller, cog while rotating your pedal mechanically until you hear that smooth sound.. wipe your bike with clean rug ( cotton) dip in crude oil.. brush bolts, expose cables w crude oil…do this after using your bike for a long ride..remember; a spoonful of crude oil is enough to clean the entire bike… i been using this method for more than 20 years by now…
Great video! I learned a a lot. Thank you for sharing.
Great stuff! That chair really brings the tire changing station together. I know you're not a big fan of hydro's, but any chance you could do a pad change and bleed? I have new TRP pads ready to go, hesitant to mess with the system though..
Bleeding hydraulic brakes is 90% reading the service manual and following procedure. If they are really old or a model known to be problematic (Some tekrtros) its becoming common practice to just replace with inexpensive pre bled Shimano's like MT201.
Definitely agree with the first comment from emilycs, I'll add that turning the bike upside down to work on hydraulic brakes can mess the job up, use a stand if possible.
Personally I like to apply Armour All on the knobs of my tires. It makes riding more challenging.
What would you find do? if everyone did their service on their bikes
I was waiting to see if you used any sort of polish on the bike after using Dawn. I use dawn to degrease my car before I clay bar it and do a serious wash. I haven’t used furniture polish on my bike but I frequently use waterless wash and wax.
Real nice and calm, almost asmr
For many years I've regularly sprayed WD40 on my groupset/derailleur and then used a rag to remove the excess. It seems to keep it rust free and running like a sewing machine.
I am officially addicted to your amazing channel...Maf in Portugal
Do you have any issues with the bike polish attracting dust and grime onto it? Great video as always!
The main difference between the cheap and expensive shifting groups are nowadays mostly the weight benefits and the finish (looks). They almost perform at the same level. For daily users the weight difference (and looks) are unimportant.
Is there any risk of getting that Dawn nuclear wash into the bearings and acting as a degreaser when you're spraying it all around there? I'm guessing not, since you're doing it, which I find exciting, because that stuff really does the job.
the only thing he does wrong is to put oil on the two derailleur's screws, because there is teflon into their threads. Moreover teflon doesn't like oil.
Where did you get the nozzle for the TriFlow lubricant?
I'm watching your channel learning how to do TH-cam! Great work
How often do you change your bicycle tires?
Mine hasn't changed since 2013 I only ride my bicycle in the summer from May to September.
Thanks for the detail and for not cutting out any steps
Shimano are great I'm a beginner cyclist and mechanic
Thanks a bunch, this really helps to get my ride ready for some touring this spring...
Great tips, nice bike, and good content. An ounce of prevention, as they say....Thanks again! If I lived up your way, you'd be the bike shop of choice I'd frequent. I'd probably get a Park tool thrown at me... LOL.
I'm looking about getting into mountain biking when I get my taxes I want to get more into shape but also too I've been riding bikes and dirt bikes my whole life but I finally got almost 6 years sober off alcohol and almost 8 years clean off all drugs so I want to ride and I like trail riding and stuff because it helps with my ADHD but I'm kind of stuck at what bike to have I have roughly about 4 to 500 dollars to spend on a bike I want a hardtail for sure but I want disc brakes and everything as well but I sub to your channel and this is the only video I watched so far🎉❤❤🎉
When studying the geometry of something like a 1972 Masi, Gran Criterium they were, well… boring. Then from the early 1980s-mid 1980’s we began to build bikes with much more aggressive geometry. Now that we are much more experienced, and much, much older, the bikes are being designed with geometry much like the bikes we grew up with.
Question: can you use furniture polish on a bike with matte finish?
Giant Anyroad. Had one for a few months. A good bike but just not thrilled with the geometry. The front center was much too long, and the engineers at Giant must have never read CON1. The dimensions and geometry were just not right. Amazingly, I find many of the old bikes for the late 1960s to the early 1980s to have excellent handling which comes from excellent geometry. Even the Schwinn Paramount was an excellent bike.
I wonder how much is the charge for that kind of tune up
weird. you mentioned it in passing, but i was trying to figure out which tier group it was. it has all the hallmarks of a nice crank (and 10s derailleur) from a few years ago but it only has "shimano" on both. I think they're bb7 calipers. this was a decent spec bike when it was new. the spoke guard kinda makes sense with the components though unless it was added later
What brand is the good stuff electrical tape? Thanks
Love your videos brother, just found your channel. Keep it up man!!!!!
Great job! Learning a lot. Thank you for your expertise! 🇺🇸
Occasionally find an ancient bottle of turtlewax or simoniz.
Sniff n' shine.
Found wire wool was good to rub scratches and ground in-dirt out of hard and glossy paints
I like my Park bike stand.
Best bike repair stand...other than expensive Park tool
The cheap wood furniture polish truck is brilliant!
Not the first time I've heard the term "cheap tape" (handlebar tape), tape with no stickum on it.
So what "good" tape is made by who? My Masi Gran Corsa still has its original handlebar tape, and it really needs to be replaced now. It's a 2015 model I bought in 2017. I love cork tape for it's softness/padding, and for it's stickiness , even wet. I hope for and will be anticipating a response 😁👍
Nice helpful video and great music .too
For polish i prefer Glade Orange.....like the smell of orange better than lemon....lol
Pretty much exactly how I do it. Comes with repetition, experience.
Neglected to true my wheels, at a glance they seem fine. 2600 miles coming up. May as well experiment with bracket oil. ep90.... 🤫
To find a small hole easily I usually sink the filled tire into a bowl of water. The bubbles will come out from where the hole is.
But really, with the price of the inner tubes it's usually not even worth fixing it.
Membership button is on the you tube website, not the app.
Also linked in the description.
Thanks for the tips. This is the model i have. Fun bike.
We continue to enjoy your channel. Question. I got a bike for grand daughter but it was too big for her. Maybe one more year or less she will grow up. Got it brand new for her. Wanted to know what can I do to prevent it from rusting. Here in Hawaii we have rain and hot and humidity is high. I have in the basement and cover it. But I know with how the weather here in Hawaii it may get some rust. Thanks in advance and aloha.
Oil the chain, that's usually the worst for rust when a bike left sitting. You can just use axle grease or motor oil, get plenty on, then wipe it off when you ready to ride it again. I've used Vaseline in the past too, it's good on chromed parts & exposed cables to prevent rust.
@@papalegba6796 thank you