If some tantalum capacitors have failed then more will almost certainly follow and given how much damage they can do I'd personally replace all of them on all the drives, they're notorious for failing after several years use. To remove them carefully use hot air gently bringing the board up to temperature without scorching it (practice on scrap boards), not the iron and clean the pads with desolder wick, those suckers can pull pads off the board particularly surface mount pads and I NEVER use them. Just look at the remaining good drives to identify blown parts. solder the new parts using hot air and they'll pull themselves straight due to surface tension. "Self fluxing" enamel wire is best, you don't need to strip it, just solder through the enamel.
Thanks for the heads up and tips! Going on 3 months now without any new issues, so fingers crossed I won't have to replace the caps just yet. Its also my understanding that even the newest servo drives are all plug and play.
@@RocanMotor Trouble is with tants it when you have to replace them because they've finally failed they often do so much damage that repair isn't viable and it's not expensive or even a long job with practice.
Thank you Luke! We are getting close to running now. In a few weeks I'll be posting a rebuild of my Tool Grinder- it's an Agathon Style, E. Hofmann, Suisse Made.
Excited for seeing some chips on the haas. Sorry to hear about the job, but happy to know you're pursuing a passion. Can't wait for some more videos. All the best.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
What a great video! Your new business is going to be a huge success.
Greatly appreciate the kind words!
@@RocanMotor You are very welcome my friend
If some tantalum capacitors have failed then more will almost certainly follow and given how much damage they can do I'd personally replace all of them on all the drives, they're notorious for failing after several years use. To remove them carefully use hot air gently bringing the board up to temperature without scorching it (practice on scrap boards), not the iron and clean the pads with desolder wick, those suckers can pull pads off the board particularly surface mount pads and I NEVER use them. Just look at the remaining good drives to identify blown parts. solder the new parts using hot air and they'll pull themselves straight due to surface tension. "Self fluxing" enamel wire is best, you don't need to strip it, just solder through the enamel.
Thanks for the heads up and tips! Going on 3 months now without any new issues, so fingers crossed I won't have to replace the caps just yet.
Its also my understanding that even the newest servo drives are all plug and play.
@@RocanMotor Trouble is with tants it when you have to replace them because they've finally failed they often do so much damage that repair isn't viable and it's not expensive or even a long job with practice.
Glad to see you got the lathe running :) all the best for your future adventures
Thank you Luke! We are getting close to running now. In a few weeks I'll be posting a rebuild of my Tool Grinder- it's an Agathon Style, E. Hofmann, Suisse Made.
@@RocanMotor cool cant wait to see it. I am hoping to get some videos up too some time soon
@@LCalleja I look forward to seeing your videos as well!
Best of luck on the new business!
Excited for seeing some chips on the haas. Sorry to hear about the job, but happy to know you're pursuing a passion. Can't wait for some more videos. All the best.
I greatly appreciate the kind words! Many more videos on the way.
thanks for the video good luck
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
More cnc videos please
@@speedhuntersrb we've got some on the way!
very cool. .i own a 96 hl2 runs great
Nice! I believe the HL2 had an option for a tailstock? That's the biggest shortcoming of the HL1, I think.
@@RocanMotor Yeah i needed the Tailstock......But you CANT Beat the Price you paid!!
@@DJ-yp4kc couldn't agree more!