"The missile knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't. By subtracting where it is from where it isn't, or where it isn't from where it is (whichever is greater), it obtains a difference, or deviation. The guidance subsystem uses deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the missile from a position where it is to a position where it isn't, and arriving at a position where it wasn't, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is, is now the position that it wasn't, and it follows that the position that it was, is now the position that it isn't. In the event that the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't, the system has acquired a variation, the variation being the difference between where the missile is, and where it wasn't. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too may be corrected by the GEA. However, the missile must also know where it was. The missile guidance computer scenario works as follows. Because a variation has modified some of the information the missile has obtained, it is not sure just where it is. However, it is sure where it isn't, within reason, and it knows where it was. It now subtracts where it should be from where it wasn't, or vice-versa, and by differentiating this from the algebraic sum of where it shouldn't be, and where it was, it is able to obtain the deviation and its variation, which is called error."
Well done sir. As someone with a 5T XL from launch, going through the stringing, switching to all 0.4 nozzles, this is a very fair assessment. Firmware helped but 0.4 helped even more. I'm definitely not envying all the waste others have to go through and yes, switching off the prime tower does work to save even more filament on very large 5 colour prints with the caveat of the odd little bit that might get stuck on the outside but I've always been able to just pick off so overall no impact to quality.
I think the Prusa XL can do a lot that no other readily available printer can really do, and it can do multi-color with far less waste than an AMS style system. The price really isn't unreasonable, and the more bugs and kinks they work out, the more worth it it becomes.
I built a Voron 2.4 Toolchanger recently, I only paid 50$ per toolhead and 800$ for the 2.4, however, if I could rewind time, I would just buy a prusa xl, way more reliable and quieter
Love the XL. Multimaterial is a game changer. Using PLA for supports on PETG is amazing. Printing TPU in parts you want flexible and PETG in parts you want more rigid. I am always impressed at this machine. The only thing that frustrates me is that it is so much slower than the MK4. I'm not sure why, but the whole start up process is more than 2x as long.
When you print PETG with PLA supports (or vice versa) do you just set the bed temp to PETG? Also how do you handle the wipe tower/purge block since the two plastics don't bond to each other?
@@PendragonDaGreat The bed temp is petg. Haven't had an issue yet. I have been skipping the purge tower lately, but when I was there is a part of the slicer where you can indicate where the extruder purges and I have PLA purge to the inside of the tower.
I received mine just before Christmas last year. It took a while for Prusa to get the firmware and software working better, and I replaced my .6 nozzles with the .4. I have has a lot of problems with filament jams. Have gotten very good at removing the nozzle and cleaning - it is a quick job. A very interesting printer.
If I had the money, I would definitely buy it. With only 2 heads because I am more interested in using the second head with PETG as support material for PLA objects. Also to mix PLA and TPU.
We just got a 5 toolhead XL at work and so far it's great (once I THOROUGHLY cleaned the flex plates). We got it for multi-material printing and, other than a flaky heat break thermister, it's been perfect. I had some stringing, but that was with some old PLA. Lowering the print temperature from 230 to 215 fixed that.
I recommend a filament dryer like the Eibos Polyphemus dryer (I use 3), it really helps with stringing, this printer is more susceptible with string when using more than one toolhead.
Great video! I would so much love to meet you one day and talk about how many affiliate-link sales you got from this video, compared to ANY other video you did on cheaper machines. I will be surprised if you get any - it seems that affiliate links work well when the machines are not expensive and people make their minds right away after watching the video. But for anything really expensive, people will watch a BUNCH of videos... they research a lot... they plan and when they finally decide that's they want, they tend to go directly to the brand's website and buy there - no affiliate clicking. You tell me :)
One of my printers rocks a 0.6 CHT style knockoff, I accepted from the start that the quality was never going to be amazing, its just great for functional parts and printing faster than a 0.4. it is a temperature/meltzone length/surface tension problem. PTFE lined hotends also seem to ooze less as the liner keeps them from melting until they either sit too long, or the temperature gradient creeps up the filament while printing too slow.
After the AnkerMake cancellation, this has been on my radar. But as a person in the US, the import process is intimidating. Thanks for the info on how the toolchanger works. That was a main question for me.
Import process is handled by the carrier and you will get an invoice to pay them it will be released and complete its journey to you. It was about $129 for my 5 tool XL about a year ago.
Have you tried printing soft tpu with a nextruder on a mk4? im struggling to not have the filament wrap itself round the gears. Im trying to use Recreus filaflex 60a.. any advice?
I can confirm that .6 nozzles have a stringing problem. In my case it just happens with PLA while Petg has no stringing. For me personally i don't need 5 different filaments at the same time. Two are enough, because I would like to experiment with 2 different materials in one print. So an index printer would be ideal for me. I really don't like wasting as much filament as the AMS does so if I would want multi colored prints I would prefer this.
Very good video, machine have very low waste ratio per colour or material change, with enclousure can be good choice for spensive materials. Its made in europe and always good service
The "waste" conversation is misleading. Another channel did a mathematical look at the price difference between "competitor 1" and the XL and you would need to have hundreds of thousands to over a million filament changes to get to the break even cost of an X1C and an XL. filament can be recycled, reused, or you can print smarter. It is literally less than a penny for multiple filament changes to maybe a 10 cents for filament costing $100 per spool. The Xl advantages are the speed in the filament changes and maybe the size. After that it becomes niche projects that can print in open air or with non abrasives unless you spend $200 upgrading to hardened nozzles and $300-600 for an enclosure solution. At that point you can get multiple machines with more capabilities. Dollars and Cents, Bambu Lab's Filament Waste True Cost
hey - Just ask'n' : why is nobody going to compare the Prusa XL with the proforge 4.2? There are some videos out there - about the proforge. This machine should be; faster, bigger, more acceleration, more flow, with quad-gantry-leveling, and, and, and. Ok - only 4 heads. But only "half the price". As I wrote: just asking (for a friend ;-) )
"It's bigger than anything else at this moment ..." Ratrig with its Vcore3, and now Vcore4, both with sizes up to 500x500x500 of printable space: Am I joke to you?
Rather have a cheap printer than i can buy multiple of for a print farm, end of the day the XL can only do one job at a time even with multiple toolheads. Price makes the XL a rather unattractive proposition, a printer for niche prints maybe, for a print farm, probably not.
I really dont like the pin for aligning nozzles. Should have used an upwards facing camera and software. Would be much more accurate. Think of the crap that accumulates on nozzles etc.
@@LostInTech3D does it not need to be done every time it homes? Sensor less homing is not as accurate as limit switches. Still better than the e3d system I guess. That was such a pain in the arse to get them all aligned.
It only needs to be done on initial setup and when you change the nozzles. Sensorless homing is sufficiently precise to always pick up the tools from the dock correctly. Not that I think that the sensorless homing has any issues here, but if you think about it even if the homing was slightly off it wouldnt affect the print since all tools would be off equally. If you prefer to verify the alignment with a camera you should be able to do that too since the UI lets you manually tweak the offsets if you want to
Ive had a 5T for about 9 months now and it's been great. I put a Sumo Enclosure on it and designed a filter system that uses the Prusa enclosure filter and blower. I have zero complaints. 1 thing I will caution though is that printing large parts, especially functional parts, is a whole new ballgame because shrinkage and warping are a much bigger challenge. You have to design your parts with this in mind and have the appropriate slicer settings to minimize it's affects. Thanks for the content.
@@ZeeLobby I have not had any issues. With the bed passively heating the enclosure I can't get it hotter than about 45°C if all of the heatbed tiles are on. I think that's partially because my shop is a steady 70°F. I have read from others that they have had weird errors when printing above 45°C chamber temps, although those issues may have been resolved with newer firmware upgrades. Personally I wouldn't go above 45°C anyways since many of the plastic parts on the printer may become structurally weakened at temps above that. It prints ABS, and ASA fine at those temps. I imagine PC would print fine too, but I haven't needed to print any yet.
Yeah shrinkage issues is probably the reason why large format printers will probably never make sense in the mainstream. Above the 250 cubed volume printers regular people won't know how to handle making a functional part. even when scanners or ai modeling magically becomes perfect, reality of physics is not going to be accounted for so easily.
It is cool tech, but the price is just a blocker for me. Not that I couldn't afford it, but I guess it is hard to see how it would add significant value, for me, over my MK4(S) 😁
Great video. Hopefully one day I will upgrade my single tool XL to a 2 or 5 tool printer. (At least when I’m not trying to troubleshoot the printer every other week) 🤣
I’ll definitely purchase an XL…I think it’s finely a fully functional and fine tuned printer. There is nothing like it, currently, in the market. However, like many others I need to work it into my budget.
Idk dude, im using 0.6 nozzle exclusively and have zero issues. And about the price.. Lets wait for the china printer manufacturers to copy and release better for less.
I'll probably wait for an XL Mk2, mostly because of the price. I really want the size because I do a lot of printing for my cosplayer friends and being able to make props in one go without cutting them to pieces would be amazing. I currently run a P1S w/ AMS, not really for multicolor but more because it eliminates the fussiness of loading and unloading filament, it's also nice to be able to switch colors without swapping rolls, just pick one in the slicer right before sending it off
It’s nice to finally see a core xy printer from Prusa! I’m currently converting my cartesian printer to core xy because of reliability issues that I had with it. (Of course it’s not gonna look as fancy as this one though 😅)
Ive had one since Jan of 24 and its held up perfectly over over 500 hours print time (last I checked). Would love to see you dive into 0 interface gaps support (Polymaker PLA Pro + Polymakers PLA breakaway support are my go to). Would be interested to see how PETG works as an interface, because it did not work with the Polymaker PLA Pro I mentioned above, or how water soluble work for you, because again, the PLA I used did not like it (but Prusa galaxy black did). Really glad you got one because you do more science than I am capable of lol, and this is a whole new frontier for 3D printing I think. The colors are nice and fast yes but having multiple colors, with multiple materials like adding TPU to PETG parts to remove rattles in a car for example, makes it better than injection molding IMO, really the first of its kind
@@LostInTech3D Its pretty awesome not gunna lie- perfect dimensional accuracy, using it as an interface only is a couple of grams even on large prints, easy to remove with no scars, its great Happy to discuss settings to lessen some of the troubleshooting I had at the start too!
I have close to 1700 on my XL since July 23 (2H upgrade done earlier this year). PETG/PLA interface works great for me regardless if I use hatchbox, prusament, polymaker, or even nearly decade old makergeeks stuff.
@@zacharykarr I spoke with the 3d print general (now removed from youtube but works at Polymaker) and he said the same thing worked just like you are saying. I really dont know why it hasnt worked for me, but in the end honestly the breakaway "specialty" filament works well and hasnt required drying, so for that alone im ok paying more to not have that headache that PETG might give me. You have any luck with PVA and Polymaker PLA Pro? I would for sure put up with drying and issues with that if it means I can just toss it in a bucket and let the interface dissolve away!
I can confirm, 0.6mm nozzles string a decent amount more than 0.4mm nozzles for the same temperatures and filaments. And then there's my 1.4mm nozzle which oozes like a little kid with a cold. And, yes, I would love one. I imagine printing big fat layers with a large nozzle with a small nozzle for details. (I assume one can use different nozzles on the same print?) It's just a cool printer.
I think you missed the gigantic oversight from Prusa: the lack of a decent enclosure. And I'm not talking about the bellow thing they are selling but a Bambu or Voron like enclosure.
@@GreenPlasticWaterCan the very first pictures of the XL already had the lower part of the enclosure on them and they were even shown like that on trade shows, they just couldnt release it at the time due to a patent from Stratasys.
It’s got a huge con or two otherwise it’s an epic machine. Filament storage… open to atmosphere is a disappointment, and it’s an open frame machine…. If they had a heated and enclosed filament storage solution and the machine had an enclosed printer area, ideally that’s actively heated, this would be THE machine.
ok now you have to get all your printers to do the same model on a 0.6 nozzle and see if you can get all the stringing gone by changing slicer settings.. coz on my 2 printers i use 0.6 regularly and don't get stringing ....
I love the idea, but for me this printer is missing a few key features for my use case. I wanted super short filament paths and the ability to quick change nozzles. Im building a Voron Trident with a toolchanger thats a combo of the XL and Jubilee.
What surprises me the most is that they got sensorless homing to work with multiple toolheads. Sensorless on any Voron tool changer would never pick up the tools correctly. That's some very clever motor trickery and homing routines.
You're correct, there is no competition to it right now if one wants a printer with a toolchanger. That said multi colour/multi material use cases can be also satisfied by an idex, mmu, or a combination of the two. It also doesn't address the use case of folks wanting to build printers for fun :)
Welcome to the club! If you ever want to print some super flexible filament and have trouble getting it past the side filament sensor, one trick i found was to get a bit of pla and feed it in first. That way the pla opens up the filament sensor and the flex goes in easily behind it.
I got my 5TH in February. It's awesome, very little waste or any issues. The Carbon X1 hasn't been turned on since it arrived as I have found the AMS troublesome in our warmer weather and prone to consistent jamming.
FYI, about the multiple PSUs... The single tool-head XL only has two PSUs. The 5 tool-head has 3 PSUs. The dual tool-head also has two PSUs. I would guess (w/o actually having a unit to tear apart to check), one PSU is for the electronics, motors, and 2 extruders; one PSU is for the heater bed; and the 3rd PSU is for the last 3 extruders. Though, maybe part of the first PSU is also used on the heater bed. There are two 24V inputs on the heater bed control board, one 6A and the other 10A. The main brain electronics only appears to have one 24V input. The 3rd PSU connects to the board that drives the last 3 tool-heads. Interesting, that board has a connector for a 6th tool-head... I've looked through some of the assembly and upgrade guides and that is my guess.
The view at 2:38 is really cool! I still have a bowden i3 clone that prints fine, but I look forward to upgrading to a multi-filament printer 😄 The ability to print the supports in a different material to remove them easily sounds so awesome Hopefully, creality becomes an affordable alternative to bambulab with their CFS release for the K2 because I enjoy the opensource aspect of 3d printing a lot
I bought a Snapmaker J1 (IEDX) with the new hotends instead. XL is too expensive. You need another 600€ for the enclosure too. I print functional parts. 2 color prints (lettering) or TPU+ABS is the main stuff I print. I really wanted to give the XL a go but it wasn’t in my budget.
I would really like to have an XL sadly all my parts are designed around asa and I really don't this machine is up to printing big functional asa parts even with a prusa enclosure or a sumo enclosure. I might be wrong but I am guessing the chamber temps are pretty pathetic compared to what I am used to.
I've been waiting for this video so long. Wanted to see what the prusa fanboy would say and I was not disappointed :) Sooo you think the price is okay for this machine? You make a calculation for 2k $ but why did you not say that 5 of the extruders are 1.6k $ in Prusa site? Oh wait, and 500$ for assembly. This is how much the SV08 costs :D hahaha So without enclosure (500$ for enclosure? WTF? Is that gold?!?!?!) it is 4.2k $ . Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah.. great.. for E3D toolchanger machine? But wait this is not all. For those money you would have to make fixes, grease it, configure it, make it work as it was supposed to be working for those kind of money. OMG even the WiFi connection is done as in 2017.
I have the 5-tool XL and I love it. Beautiful printing quality and being able to print multiple materials with virtually zero waste is great. I just added the enclosure so I'm looking forward to printing with some materials like ASA as well. By the way, the PSU count depends on the bed but also the number of tool heads. If you have one of the printers with only one or two tool heads, it will have fewer PSUs.
mate yes its expensive regardless (or because of) it being one of a kind. thats a lot of money for anything in 3d printing nowadays. its not even in the "oh ill just splurge on something i want but dont really need" category. its just cost prohibitive but we gotta start somewhere.
It might be for a hobbyist, but as you can see in the comments they sold a lot of them, so there is a market for it. I wouldn't expect such a machine, built in Europe, to cost anything less than this. My guess is that with the costs of work here in Europe they aren't even making a large profit with these machines. And I second what is said in the video: we can't say it's TOO expensive if no one else managed to produce something similar for cheaper, not even in China.
@@LostInTech3D The "masses" never seem to think about all the time and money spent making a video to review a product. Just because they didn't pay to see the video, they think everything that went into it is free.
@@LostInTech3DI review stuff too and people are always like “wow you got that for free!?” And like, yeah I didn’t pay money for it but the reviews are a ton of work 😂
Well, you can say it is expensive, because it IS expensive objectively, regardless of relative value that is a separate measure/comparison rather than a simple figure of "how many money units". Is it a good machine? After all the growing pains, it seems to be another great machine from Prusa. Is it for everyone? Well, not really, because it's simply not intended for everyone because of what it is, what it does, and what is expected from the user to get the most out of it.
"The missile knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't. By subtracting where it is from where it isn't, or where it isn't from where it is (whichever is greater), it obtains a difference, or deviation. The guidance subsystem uses deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the missile from a position where it is to a position where it isn't, and arriving at a position where it wasn't, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is, is now the position that it wasn't, and it follows that the position that it was, is now the position that it isn't.
In the event that the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't, the system has acquired a variation, the variation being the difference between where the missile is, and where it wasn't. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too may be corrected by the GEA. However, the missile must also know where it was.
The missile guidance computer scenario works as follows. Because a variation has modified some of the information the missile has obtained, it is not sure just where it is. However, it is sure where it isn't, within reason, and it knows where it was. It now subtracts where it should be from where it wasn't, or vice-versa, and by differentiating this from the algebraic sum of where it shouldn't be, and where it was, it is able to obtain the deviation and its variation, which is called error."
Well done sir. As someone with a 5T XL from launch, going through the stringing, switching to all 0.4 nozzles, this is a very fair assessment. Firmware helped but 0.4 helped even more. I'm definitely not envying all the waste others have to go through and yes, switching off the prime tower does work to save even more filament on very large 5 colour prints with the caveat of the odd little bit that might get stuck on the outside but I've always been able to just pick off so overall no impact to quality.
I think the Prusa XL can do a lot that no other readily available printer can really do, and it can do multi-color with far less waste than an AMS style system. The price really isn't unreasonable, and the more bugs and kinks they work out, the more worth it it becomes.
The reason for the 0.6 nozzles originally was because it didn't have input shaping yet, and that build volume is HUGE for 0.4 nozzles.
I built a Voron 2.4 Toolchanger recently, I only paid 50$ per toolhead and 800$ for the 2.4, however, if I could rewind time, I would just buy a prusa xl, way more reliable and quieter
How many hours did it take for the build?
Love the XL. Multimaterial is a game changer. Using PLA for supports on PETG is amazing. Printing TPU in parts you want flexible and PETG in parts you want more rigid. I am always impressed at this machine. The only thing that frustrates me is that it is so much slower than the MK4. I'm not sure why, but the whole start up process is more than 2x as long.
When you print PETG with PLA supports (or vice versa) do you just set the bed temp to PETG? Also how do you handle the wipe tower/purge block since the two plastics don't bond to each other?
@@PendragonDaGreat The bed temp is petg. Haven't had an issue yet. I have been skipping the purge tower lately, but when I was there is a part of the slicer where you can indicate where the extruder purges and I have PLA purge to the inside of the tower.
That's my new dream-machine
Approved
I received mine just before Christmas last year. It took a while for Prusa to get the firmware and software working better, and I replaced my .6 nozzles with the .4. I have has a lot of problems with filament jams. Have gotten very good at removing the nozzle and cleaning - it is a quick job. A very interesting printer.
If I had the money, I would definitely buy it. With only 2 heads because I am more interested in using the second head with PETG as support material for PLA objects. Also to mix PLA and TPU.
yes - most of the time two heads is enough for people, they just don't realise it until they have five. I'm sure I'll use all five though :)
We just got a 5 toolhead XL at work and so far it's great (once I THOROUGHLY cleaned the flex plates). We got it for multi-material printing and, other than a flaky heat break thermister, it's been perfect. I had some stringing, but that was with some old PLA. Lowering the print temperature from 230 to 215 fixed that.
I recommend a filament dryer like the Eibos Polyphemus dryer (I use 3), it really helps with stringing, this printer is more susceptible with string when using more than one toolhead.
What I find most ingenious about this printer is that many of the functions are purely mechanical. This reduces the susceptibility to errors.
Id love to see you do a review on a 3d chameleon. I just bought one to put on my spare ender that i use as a test horse lol
Mesmerising to watch :)
Great video! I would so much love to meet you one day and talk about how many affiliate-link sales you got from this video, compared to ANY other video you did on cheaper machines. I will be surprised if you get any - it seems that affiliate links work well when the machines are not expensive and people make their minds right away after watching the video. But for anything really expensive, people will watch a BUNCH of videos... they research a lot... they plan and when they finally decide that's they want, they tend to go directly to the brand's website and buy there - no affiliate clicking. You tell me :)
I think you're right
One of my printers rocks a 0.6 CHT style knockoff, I accepted from the start that the quality was never going to be amazing, its just great for functional parts and printing faster than a 0.4. it is a temperature/meltzone length/surface tension problem. PTFE lined hotends also seem to ooze less as the liner keeps them from melting until they either sit too long, or the temperature gradient creeps up the filament while printing too slow.
ive have one, its been pretty good, no regrets.
I'm surprised Bambu hasn't already released a clone, but I'm sure they're working on one.
Are they going to do a s version a updated one
After the AnkerMake cancellation, this has been on my radar. But as a person in the US, the import process is intimidating. Thanks for the info on how the toolchanger works. That was a main question for me.
Import process is handled by the carrier and you will get an invoice to pay them it will be released and complete its journey to you. It was about $129 for my 5 tool XL about a year ago.
Have you tried printing soft tpu with a nextruder on a mk4? im struggling to not have the filament wrap itself round the gears. Im trying to use Recreus filaflex 60a.. any advice?
Yeah there's a ball bearing assembly in the top that senses the filament. Some people have removed that, I think.
I can confirm that .6 nozzles have a stringing problem. In my case it just happens with PLA while Petg has no stringing. For me personally i don't need 5 different filaments at the same time. Two are enough, because I would like to experiment with 2 different materials in one print. So an index printer would be ideal for me. I really don't like wasting as much filament as the AMS does so if I would want multi colored prints I would prefer this.
Very good video, machine have very low waste ratio per colour or material change, with enclousure can be good choice for spensive materials. Its made in europe and always good service
The "waste" conversation is misleading. Another channel did a mathematical look at the price difference between "competitor 1" and the XL and you would need to have hundreds of thousands to over a million filament changes to get to the break even cost of an X1C and an XL. filament can be recycled, reused, or you can print smarter.
It is literally less than a penny for multiple filament changes to maybe a 10 cents for filament costing $100 per spool. The Xl advantages are the speed in the filament changes and maybe the size. After that it becomes niche projects that can print in open air or with non abrasives unless you spend $200 upgrading to hardened nozzles and $300-600 for an enclosure solution.
At that point you can get multiple machines with more capabilities.
Dollars and Cents, Bambu Lab's Filament Waste True Cost
I love it
My SV08 doesnt take long to heat up lol
For this price I prefer to build Voron 2.4 with stealthchanger and I even can get 6 toolheads instead of 5. I think you should do a video on that.
might do, but probably not 6 toolheads lol
@@LostInTech3Dthose are rookie numbers
@@LostInTech3D you should go all in ;)
"I can just build a Voron" is a statement mostly made by people who don't know what they're getting into.
@@fursphere2 I have a serialized stealthchanger SC.0005 so I know how easy is to build a voron if you have time
The ultimakers have 2 Heads by default, but 2x the price 😅
hey - Just ask'n' :
why is nobody going to compare the Prusa XL
with the proforge 4.2?
There are some videos out there - about the proforge.
This machine should be;
faster, bigger, more acceleration, more flow,
with quad-gantry-leveling, and, and, and.
Ok - only 4 heads.
But only "half the price".
As I wrote:
just asking (for a friend ;-) )
"It's bigger than anything else at this moment ..." Ratrig with its Vcore3, and now Vcore4, both with sizes up to 500x500x500 of printable space: Am I joke to you?
If you want this but way cheaper you would mod a Sovol sv08 instead of going with an actual Voron
yeah you could, but that's definitely a project, not a product
Rather have a cheap printer than i can buy multiple of for a print farm, end of the day the XL can only do one job at a time even with multiple toolheads.
Price makes the XL a rather unattractive proposition, a printer for niche prints maybe, for a print farm, probably not.
Yes, if I drowned in cash I would buy it (and a large enough house to have the space for it). But reality always gets in the way…
Play the long game, spend 4 years making TH-cam videos 🤣
I really dont like the pin for aligning nozzles. Should have used an upwards facing camera and software. Would be much more accurate. Think of the crap that accumulates on nozzles etc.
It's done once, and warns you to clean the nozzles first
@@LostInTech3D does it not need to be done every time it homes? Sensor less homing is not as accurate as limit switches.
Still better than the e3d system I guess. That was such a pain in the arse to get them all aligned.
It only needs to be done on initial setup and when you change the nozzles. Sensorless homing is sufficiently precise to always pick up the tools from the dock correctly. Not that I think that the sensorless homing has any issues here, but if you think about it even if the homing was slightly off it wouldnt affect the print since all tools would be off equally.
If you prefer to verify the alignment with a camera you should be able to do that too since the UI lets you manually tweak the offsets if you want to
Colour 3D prints look bad let's be honest different colour signs are cool but I can pause the print and change the filament
Ive had a 5T for about 9 months now and it's been great. I put a Sumo Enclosure on it and designed a filter system that uses the Prusa enclosure filter and blower.
I have zero complaints.
1 thing I will caution though is that printing large parts, especially functional parts, is a whole new ballgame because shrinkage and warping are a much bigger challenge. You have to design your parts with this in mind and have the appropriate slicer settings to minimize it's affects.
Thanks for the content.
How have you found bed MCU and buddy board heat? I've been considering upgrading the enclosures and fans for both before throwing it in an enclosure
@@ZeeLobby I have not had any issues. With the bed passively heating the enclosure I can't get it hotter than about 45°C if all of the heatbed tiles are on. I think that's partially because my shop is a steady 70°F.
I have read from others that they have had weird errors when printing above 45°C chamber temps, although those issues may have been resolved with newer firmware upgrades.
Personally I wouldn't go above 45°C anyways since many of the plastic parts on the printer may become structurally weakened at temps above that. It prints ABS, and ASA fine at those temps. I imagine PC would print fine too, but I haven't needed to print any yet.
Yeah shrinkage issues is probably the reason why large format printers will probably never make sense in the mainstream. Above the 250 cubed volume printers regular people won't know how to handle making a functional part. even when scanners or ai modeling magically becomes perfect, reality of physics is not going to be accounted for so easily.
With the changes in the MK4S toolhead, I might want to wait for updated toolheads here too.
I don't think it's likely, the mk4s ones wouldn't fit
@@LostInTech3D XLS?
Is easier to add Z cooling than tool cooling for that
Great review. Sadly the price is just too high for me, but I love what they've done to reduce the waste.
It is cool tech, but the price is just a blocker for me. Not that I couldn't afford it, but I guess it is hard to see how it would add significant value, for me, over my MK4(S) 😁
Oh, nice to see you here!
3d printed bread would be interesting :)
@@TechieSewing Haha. Do you know of any flour-based filament? 🤣
@@Foodgeek There is still room for innovation 😂
For me the biggest feature would be supports printed in a different material. Some tests I've seen were really impressive when mixing PETG and PLA.
Can confirm, multimatetial supports enables some beautiful parts that wouldn't be available otherwise.
all hail poosa
Great video. Hopefully one day I will upgrade my single tool XL to a 2 or 5 tool printer. (At least when I’m not trying to troubleshoot the printer every other week) 🤣
I’ll definitely purchase an XL…I think it’s finely a fully functional and fine tuned printer. There is nothing like it, currently, in the market. However, like many others I need to work it into my budget.
Idk dude, im using 0.6 nozzle exclusively and have zero issues. And about the price.. Lets wait for the china printer manufacturers to copy and release better for less.
I'll probably wait for an XL Mk2, mostly because of the price. I really want the size because I do a lot of printing for my cosplayer friends and being able to make props in one go without cutting them to pieces would be amazing. I currently run a P1S w/ AMS, not really for multicolor but more because it eliminates the fussiness of loading and unloading filament, it's also nice to be able to switch colors without swapping rolls, just pick one in the slicer right before sending it off
It’s nice to finally see a core xy printer from Prusa! I’m currently converting my cartesian printer to core xy because of reliability issues that I had with it. (Of course it’s not gonna look as fancy as this one though 😅)
Ive had one since Jan of 24 and its held up perfectly over over 500 hours print time (last I checked). Would love to see you dive into 0 interface gaps support (Polymaker PLA Pro + Polymakers PLA breakaway support are my go to).
Would be interested to see how PETG works as an interface, because it did not work with the Polymaker PLA Pro I mentioned above, or how water soluble work for you, because again, the PLA I used did not like it (but Prusa galaxy black did).
Really glad you got one because you do more science than I am capable of lol, and this is a whole new frontier for 3D printing I think. The colors are nice and fast yes but having multiple colors, with multiple materials like adding TPU to PETG parts to remove rattles in a car for example, makes it better than injection molding IMO, really the first of its kind
good suggestion on the support, I'll note it down
@@LostInTech3D Its pretty awesome not gunna lie- perfect dimensional accuracy, using it as an interface only is a couple of grams even on large prints, easy to remove with no scars, its great
Happy to discuss settings to lessen some of the troubleshooting I had at the start too!
I have close to 1700 on my XL since July 23 (2H upgrade done earlier this year). PETG/PLA interface works great for me regardless if I use hatchbox, prusament, polymaker, or even nearly decade old makergeeks stuff.
@@zacharykarr I spoke with the 3d print general (now removed from youtube but works at Polymaker) and he said the same thing worked just like you are saying.
I really dont know why it hasnt worked for me, but in the end honestly the breakaway "specialty" filament works well and hasnt required drying, so for that alone im ok paying more to not have that headache that PETG might give me.
You have any luck with PVA and Polymaker PLA Pro? I would for sure put up with drying and issues with that if it means I can just toss it in a bucket and let the interface dissolve away!
I can confirm, 0.6mm nozzles string a decent amount more than 0.4mm nozzles for the same temperatures and filaments.
And then there's my 1.4mm nozzle which oozes like a little kid with a cold.
And, yes, I would love one. I imagine printing big fat layers with a large nozzle with a small nozzle for details. (I assume one can use different nozzles on the same print?) It's just a cool printer.
Just giving me more ideas here 😁
Have you managed to reduce ooze somehow?
I think you missed the gigantic oversight from Prusa: the lack of a decent enclosure. And I'm not talking about the bellow thing they are selling but a Bambu or Voron like enclosure.
Prusa has a full Enclosure for the XL.
@@Pixelplanet5 Not by default. And that the XL isn't designed with enclosure in mind is a huge oversight.
@@GreenPlasticWaterCan the very first pictures of the XL already had the lower part of the enclosure on them and they were even shown like that on trade shows, they just couldnt release it at the time due to a patent from Stratasys.
It may not be that much for a multi head printer, but when you don't have any money, it's definitely not cheap..
Yes its the king of idex multi head
Great Video. Thanks for your review! waiting for the next one on the XL
Compare power consumption tonother multicolored printers
I THOUGHT OF IT BEFORE HE SAID IT AND HE SAID AND IT WAS BEAUTIFUL
The toolchanger looks like a DAKSH V2...
It’s got a huge con or two otherwise it’s an epic machine. Filament storage… open to atmosphere is a disappointment, and it’s an open frame machine….
If they had a heated and enclosed filament storage solution and the machine had an enclosed printer area, ideally that’s actively heated, this would be THE machine.
ok now you have to get all your printers to do the same model on a 0.6 nozzle and see if you can get all the stringing gone by changing slicer settings.. coz on my 2 printers i use 0.6 regularly and don't get stringing ....
I love the idea, but for me this printer is missing a few key features for my use case. I wanted super short filament paths and the ability to quick change nozzles. Im building a Voron Trident with a toolchanger thats a combo of the XL and Jubilee.
What surprises me the most is that they got sensorless homing to work with multiple toolheads. Sensorless on any Voron tool changer would never pick up the tools correctly. That's some very clever motor trickery and homing routines.
You're correct, there is no competition to it right now if one wants a printer with a toolchanger. That said multi colour/multi material use cases can be also satisfied by an idex, mmu, or a combination of the two. It also doesn't address the use case of folks wanting to build printers for fun :)
I want one but damn it's too expensive, maybe one day if someone sells theirs
I only I had the space...
Welcome to the club!
If you ever want to print some super flexible filament and have trouble getting it past the side filament sensor, one trick i found was to get a bit of pla and feed it in first. That way the pla opens up the filament sensor and the flex goes in easily behind it.
I did have some trouble but I just bypassed the sensor 🤣
I got my 5TH in February. It's awesome, very little waste or any issues. The Carbon X1 hasn't been turned on since it arrived as I have found the AMS troublesome in our warmer weather and prone to consistent jamming.
FYI, about the multiple PSUs... The single tool-head XL only has two PSUs. The 5 tool-head has 3 PSUs. The dual tool-head also has two PSUs. I would guess (w/o actually having a unit to tear apart to check), one PSU is for the electronics, motors, and 2 extruders; one PSU is for the heater bed; and the 3rd PSU is for the last 3 extruders. Though, maybe part of the first PSU is also used on the heater bed. There are two 24V inputs on the heater bed control board, one 6A and the other 10A. The main brain electronics only appears to have one 24V input. The 3rd PSU connects to the board that drives the last 3 tool-heads. Interesting, that board has a connector for a 6th tool-head... I've looked through some of the assembly and upgrade guides and that is my guess.
The view at 2:38 is really cool!
I still have a bowden i3 clone that prints fine, but I look forward to upgrading to a multi-filament printer 😄
The ability to print the supports in a different material to remove them easily sounds so awesome
Hopefully, creality becomes an affordable alternative to bambulab with their CFS release for the K2 because I enjoy the opensource aspect of 3d printing a lot
I bought a Snapmaker J1 (IEDX) with the new hotends instead. XL is too expensive. You need another 600€ for the enclosure too.
I print functional parts. 2 color prints (lettering) or TPU+ABS is the main stuff I print. I really wanted to give the XL a go but it wasn’t in my budget.
I would really like to have an XL sadly all my parts are designed around asa and I really don't this machine is up to printing big functional asa parts even with a prusa enclosure or a sumo enclosure. I might be wrong but I am guessing the chamber temps are pretty pathetic compared to what I am used to.
For your estimate the HQ linear rails in a PrusaXL are over $1000 alone.
I've been waiting for this video so long. Wanted to see what the prusa fanboy would say and I was not disappointed :)
Sooo you think the price is okay for this machine? You make a calculation for 2k $ but why did you not say that 5 of the extruders are 1.6k $ in Prusa site? Oh wait, and 500$ for assembly. This is how much the SV08 costs :D hahaha
So without enclosure (500$ for enclosure? WTF? Is that gold?!?!?!) it is 4.2k $ . Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah.. great.. for E3D toolchanger machine?
But wait this is not all. For those money you would have to make fixes, grease it, configure it, make it work as it was supposed to be working for those kind of money. OMG even the WiFi connection is done as in 2017.
TIL I'm a prusa fanboy, do I get a membership card? 😂
@@LostInTech3D And an important question: is it orange?..
@@LostInTech3D Yes, of course. You can get advantage of your membership card only for 399,99 excluding shipping :)
I have the 5-tool XL and I love it. Beautiful printing quality and being able to print multiple materials with virtually zero waste is great. I just added the enclosure so I'm looking forward to printing with some materials like ASA as well. By the way, the PSU count depends on the bed but also the number of tool heads. If you have one of the printers with only one or two tool heads, it will have fewer PSUs.
oh, that makes sense.
@@LostInTech3D Yeah, it keeps the tools you're using warm during printing so they're ready to go, and so that requires more oomph.
mate yes its expensive regardless (or because of) it being one of a kind. thats a lot of money for anything in 3d printing nowadays. its not even in the "oh ill just splurge on something i want but dont really need" category. its just cost prohibitive but we gotta start somewhere.
prusa XL mini when
It might be for a hobbyist, but as you can see in the comments they sold a lot of them, so there is a market for it.
I wouldn't expect such a machine, built in Europe, to cost anything less than this.
My guess is that with the costs of work here in Europe they aren't even making a large profit with these machines.
And I second what is said in the video: we can't say it's TOO expensive if no one else managed to produce something similar for cheaper, not even in China.
Lucky You, got yourself a £4.500p 3D printer for nothing! wow.
Haha, not exactly :)
@@LostInTech3D The "masses" never seem to think about all the time and money spent making a video to review a product. Just because they didn't pay to see the video, they think everything that went into it is free.
@@LostInTech3DI review stuff too and people are always like “wow you got that for free!?” And like, yeah I didn’t pay money for it but the reviews are a ton of work 😂
This video sounded so biased.
It doesn't.
*laughs in bambu proprietary*
no u
Well, you can say it is expensive, because it IS expensive objectively, regardless of relative value that is a separate measure/comparison rather than a simple figure of "how many money units".
Is it a good machine? After all the growing pains, it seems to be another great machine from Prusa.
Is it for everyone? Well, not really, because it's simply not intended for everyone because of what it is, what it does, and what is expected from the user to get the most out of it.
Prusa i overrated.