6.0 ls out of a work van: $250, rebuilt the heads and put an ls9 cam in it and boom my Camaro is just as fast as a new one 😃 total cost of my swap was $1400
I don't call 100lbs of difference a "minimal amount" of weight when choosing between aluminum or iron blocks. That drastically changes the handling of pretty much any vehicle. Now if the original engine was iron block, sure the truck motor is the easy choice. When swapping into something like a light Japanese car, that can ruin the balance. This is very application and purpose specific.
I just picked up an l92 with 80,000for my 2000 c5 corvette. Same exact motor as the ls3 only difference is it has solid valves, VVT, and different cam. Same block same heads. Picked it up for 3000$.
Keep in mind that, although you certainly CAN do something like drop a cam into a 5.3 to equal an LS3 power-wise, the end result is not going to be nearly the same thing. The LS3 will have a MUCH more favorable torque curve, both in terms of the amount of torque AND the availability of that torque throughout the RPM range. The LS3 will probably get better gas mileage as well. And it will be easier and more pleasant to deal with on a daily basis if you are using it for a daily driver.
Two things not discussed were sound and looks. I went back and forth trying to decide on putting a used Vortec truck engine in my 72 Blazer or a new 350 crate SBC engine with FI putting out 475hp. Ultimately, I decided to go with the SBC because I wanted the old school look and the old school engine rumble. It also comes with a 3 year warranty.
@@blist3274 I got mine on ebay from the hotrodcompany - it's a full turn key solution with a serpentine belt system, AC, chrome, air cleaner, engine part upgrades, etc for $5,100. If you don't want all that you can get base SBC engines from JEGS or Summit Racing for a lot less.
You actually need to bore it and maybe have to resleeve it.. converting a 6.0 to a 6.2 is pointless and even more expensive than to source a 6.2 at a junk yard or a pull out.. the Heads are $600 each just do that math. At that point just port the stock heads and stroke the 6.0 to something bigger paying all that money to get only 0.2 of a litter is rhe dumbest thing anyone can do
Yeah maybe if you do a l96 it has ls3 head already ........get it bored and use the ls3 internals then it’d be worth it but you got to do say to much .....Going from the cathedral port to square ......injectors are diff to an plugs whole harness name near .......well to go from lq4/lq9
Rodolfo Munoz yeah it’s more than just little mods. Needs cam, timing cover, valley cover valves, valves springs, all Intake sensors and convert the crank from 24 tooth to 58 tooth. 6.0 does not have the knock sensors at the bottoms so there is no way to convert a 6.0 to a legit ls3. It has to be the l96 like you said. He can probably get away with intake and heads only but still no ls3.
If you not running boost and you going n/a just get a 6.2 I did the math from 5.3 build to 5.7 6.0.. you gotta get heads $$ and all it just starts to go over your budget
I hv a LS3 swap in my restomod, I dont hv ANY regrets about it. It runs super fast,and very good. Im not a racer. Not saying anything is wrong with the 5.3,or 6.0( I destroyed my buddies that hv those) ,but a great engine without modifications , ita a great choice. I agree 5.3,and 6.0 are also great on a lower budget build, because we all hv budget builds. Haha
Luck lucky. Did u use the existing wire or change the wires ? If hou did which wire brand did you used ? How difficult was it ? Thank you enjoy your ride .
Ah... The LS3 block is just over 100 lbs lighter than a comperable iron block. That's actually huge. That's a 10th or a second off on a quarter mile run (as a general rule). To me, that's worth it alone! Add in the improved cooling, and that's a done deal...
That weight is up front so that's less traction, braking and handling especially on the street. Even worse with a couple of heavy cooled turbos up front.
LS3 doesn't suck at all i just recently got a built one you have 3 options. Go carburetored or get a holley terminator for dbc or keep it dbw I definitely don't won't dbw it won't be cheap either way
The best part or parts of the ls3 is the intake and large valve heads but you will need a 4" bore min to use them. The low dollar intake with a cable 92tb offsets the price of the heads to make them a high flowing steal for any 6.0 + block. My 418 n/a ls2 runs in the 10's. No turbos. daily driver.
Good video and I agree with you that for the money the 5.3 can make all the horse power you need compared to an LS3. Your right on the blocks but I would like to add I've been given 4.8's wearing the same heads and if you intend to go through the motor Gen 4 5.3 rotating assemblies bolt right in or you can over bore and use 5.7 pistons. The LM7 5.3 I'm currently building for a C10 truck project is using the stock long block and a TBSS intake with the reworked harness and computer from the stock truck. The most expansive part was the cam but it's good for 55 horse power over stock, add a bushed rocker kit, LS6 valve springs and new LS2 timing chain an uncorked 5.3 (no cats, High flow intake) will make 430 HP all day long and I've built more than a few of these and I have around $2000 in it. Check out Texas Speeds dyno runs on an otherwise a stock 5.3 on TH-cam, I've had similar results and I'm always looking for used parts. Flat top 4.8 pistons in a 5.3 will bump compression just over a half point, cheap horse power. The set I'm using in my current build were given to me. Even the lowly 4.8 will put out plenty of power for any street ride, I put one in an S10 with a BW World Class T5, mid length headers and a used LS1 manifold and LS6 cam, throwaway parts and it was scary fast. You don't need big inches and fancy parts to make LS's run.
Ken Fischmann I’m running a 5.3 4L60 in my 66c10 rat rod/ street rod. 64,000 miles on it new headers and a few others things. I decided to buy a 2002 Tahoe running for $1500 and just pulled and placed it in my c10... with a few modifications just motor mounts really. But I’m around 360-380 hp and it flys, truck is bagged new frame off, but I believe an old build 4.8/5.3 is perfectly fine depending on if it’s your preference and $$. But if it’s a sema build or one your trying to sell them off course LS3/Ls7 will bring more $. Gotta pay to play. I just like my 5.3
Nice video - all good points made. Currently I have an LS3 in my 06' GTO (from an 08 Vette), but if I ever decide to build another boost motor, you know I'll be looking at the 4.8 or 5.3 truck blocks.
i got a 5.3 truck motor from a farmer for 200 cdn and another 80 if he finds ecu , manifolds and starter and besides the dirty oil in bottom of the pan this motor looks so clean in the undergirdle and under the valve covers that it almost looks pressure washed which im pretty sure it wasnt as theres no hint of water anywhere, just no varnishing and no sludge build up. some guy said to always use the same non synthetic oil and you wont have sludge buildup or bad varnishing. i suspect this farmer bought his oil by the barrel and always used same stuff at regular intervals.
Pulled a 6.2L from a 08 Denali at my local upull for $275 intake to oil pan with front accessories. In my 69 firebird now with Texas speed stage 3 cam, headers, head studs was $850 for cam and vvt delete cost 3 times more than the engine lol
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with 80k miles and cam swapped it, then i put it in place of my my stock aluminum block 5.3 in my Silverado, then sold the 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of swap it was worth it. Did that 2 years ago and have been looking for a deal like that since
NA LS3 with CNC stock heads and a moderate cam makes 650 crank with 1 5/8 headers. Other LS flavors have different pistons with lesser compression. Yes the LS3 costs more but is ready for power where the other engines require work. If you want more power, ultimately you will pay for it.
with the only part being replaced is the cam and the rest modified, it's easy. Again, 650 is moderate. You can get higher gains with more money in NA. I didn't want to replace the rotating assembly and chose to leave it stock. I kept the power at 640-650 crank since I spin the engine to 7k all day at the track.
The ls3 came out in 2008 lol my lsx came out of a Junkyard then I rebuilt it and my $200 4l80 maunlal valve body then put a turbo off a 7.3l superduty.... I have way less than $7000 in my whole GTO plus have no computer problems
Ls3 20k miles 3k 4l80 stage 1 2k btr cam lifters etc. Let's say I think 1k that's what I spent oh yea I got my harness built cause this is for a 96 impala 🤷🏾♂️
I don’t know if I agree with this. Depends on the situation and if buying complete with computer, wiring, etc. I bought a used 6.0 truck motor as a long block basically. Did come with coil packs. Paid $250 and that’s a steal in todays world. Friends dad went through the it for me for $500 labor. $200 to his friend at the machine shop for a hone, cam bearing install, and polished crank. $500 parts on his end. New bearings, new rings, new oil pump, timing chain etc. cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, swap oil pan, dip stick and I’m at roughly $2700 in a used iron block budget build. Double that and I can buy a brand new from GM all aluminum 6.2 with better heads and all. Yes $2700 is a lot of money but I’d get a brand new engine with better parts. Going to sell my current engine to a friend and order an ls3 for my swap. Fixing up junkyard stuff nickels and dimes you. If I paid $750-1000 for the donor and went with a comp or other name brand cam it would’ve looked even worse on paper.
As I'm an old guy (grew up around first gen Sbc) slowly gathering parts for my Vega,,, so far have extra clean set of 823 casting heads w/rockers I picked up for $600,,,(back in 2018)this year I picked up a 6.2 truck short block (l98) in great shape,($750, according to my local engine builder ,,,just on fence about a efi or carburetor,, was looking at an e-Street or ez-efi idk,,,
With the money you'll spend on a good carb intake and ignition I would suggest you spend a little more on the Holley Terminator system. I don't think you'll regret it at all.
if you have an L98 you have an f-body (camaro,trans am,corvette)old school 350 and it isnt an ls engine. are the headers/manifolds equally spaced or are the center two pipes on the head close together? if you buy an ls buy the entire engine together with wiring harness
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with only 40 k miles and then sold my aluminum 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of truck cam I couldn’t tune it down. Now I’m looking for another low miles LS3 for my 68 camaro and will not pay more than $3500
I traded a little tattoo work for my LS3 & transmission, truck version...& that was for the full donor vehicle, so I've got the matching differential if I want to use it as well, so basically it didn't cost me anything but a little time & effort...if I'd just paid the guy for it, the whole thing would've cost me $600...if it were going to even approach $7K, I'd have just bought a crate engine...
First of all, thank you for everything you do. Got a 66 ElCamino want to swap LS . Which LS is easier to install. LS 3 electronic pedal and transmission should be easier. I’m not worried about power . Thank you
For a classic car often times its up to preference. Your existing pedal will work with a cable so if your looking to only have to worry about cable length then drive by cable would be good. If you aren't concerned about fabricating the right pedal mount or can find an adapter plate for the LS pedal for your car then drive by wire is good. Either one can be made to work with modification
@@JovaniDanteGriego thank you for responding I really appreciate it. We know there are so many different videos with different ideas. I saw a video that was explaining the difficulty of modifications if you are working from small garage with out the right tools can be difficult. Which is my situation. And Im able to get a complete LS 3 with all the hardware in very good price with only 34 k miles . The existing wire has few problems and some rusty areas around dash instrument. Do u have any recommendations on wire set up . Thanks 🙏
I've been having pretty good luck with the cheap Amazon wiring but I know exactly what should go where and stuff, so if you want something that's going to be exactly what you need hit up lsxspecialties
they are the same block as the Aluminum 5.7 LS1 bore is just different. There is 2 types of 5.3s the LM7 which is a Iron Block and the L33 which is Aluminum. I prefer the iron block, doesnt warp like aluminum and takes a better beating. No one pays thousands for a truck engine. junkyards sell those for 300 to 600 dollars and 1000 for a 6.0 Lq9. the only reason truck engine isnt worth it to someone is if you are dropping it into your 98 Firebird cause you have to Buy the Trans am K member, LS1 Fbody relocator accessories like the alternator and power steering pump, Fbody LS1 Oil pan. and most cases LS1 Intake. Then you have to change the Injectors to Car injectors or buy adapters for the truck ones. Then the Biggest hurtle is the Harness, you Have to use a Fbody harness from a v8 trans am or camaro cause the truck harness is not remotely close for set up and it doesnt have the 3 dash connectors going into the passenger side firewall into the kickpanel, C210 C220, C230. Fbody LS harnesses are 275 to 300 bucks easily. so there is a few things you have to do to make it work but its still worth it to me cause i already bought all the stuff needed.
The reason LS3 costs more is it came out in 2008. The aluminum block is the "performance"' block and since the Camaro was not being produced these are quite hard to find. On a side note the aluminum block saves about 100 lbs compared to its cast iron brother. Not huge but it is a consideration. In other words at that juncture this was a Corvette only motor. Ask yourself how many Corvettes have found their way to the junk yard compared to how many people would like to get their hands on one of these? Then ask yourself how seriously can you take a guy wearing those ridiculous things in his ears.
Good luck but chances are none of the modules are going to work well or not like stock after, I know many that have tried this and most of time you'll lose most of your interior module connectivity. I'd love to try it myself one day
@@squidusn71 Exactly mate and it definitely makes wayyyyyyy more sense than buying a brand new 2020 Camaro ingeneral and not to mention that the 480 HP hot cammed LS3 will make more power than the factory LS3 and as well as the factory LT1 anyway.
@@CJColvin yes sir, swaping in a v8 into a car that came with a v6 is not as simple as people think as well. But if you could score a rolling chasis Camaro SS for cheap, then that might be a different story. By all means install an lsx or a ls427. Next spring, I will be putting my brand new LS3 480hp crate into my 69 Camaro that I bought as a rolling chassis. I paid 5k dollars only for the engine, I say only because theyre about almost 8k now lol. I didn't want to buy it at the time because I wasn't ready for an engine but I couldn't pass it up. A tremec TKO 600 5speed will be behind it.
To each there own the LS2 and LS3 have floating connecting rods stock the LS1 does not plus the bore is only 3.89 any real hot rodder wants at least a 4 inch bore l can say if your thinking about a LS1 a LS 5.3 equipped with the same components power output is close or comparable another plus for aluminum block engines is they dissipate heat faster run cooler than a iron block counterparts the aluminum block LS engines can support 650 naturally aspirated horsepower if your going turbos or blower l can see using a iron block because they are stronger but remember that extra strength will cost you 100 pounds in the worst place on you car or truck right over the front tires my LS2 can make a pass at the track in 95 degree heat the temperature never goes above 180 with the hood open in between races a half an hour later it cools down to 130 degrees my old style smallblock chevy would run 200 degrees after a run at track and in between races with hood open a half an hour would cool to 190 degrees plus the L-92 or LS3 heads Kick-Ass and flow like crazy can only be used on engines with a 4 inch or larger bore can't be used on 4.8,5.3,5.7 LS engines the bore is under 4 inch ditch the stock fuel injection on the LS3 get a GM performance single plane intake manifold a 750 or 850 holley double pumper carburetor or holley sniper EFI and a MSD box for a LS no more problem with electronic gas petal bullshit
I’m not gonna say the LS3 sucks they are light weight and can be built up as long as you don’t want more than 800hp. But to his point on the 4.8&5.3 take a look at Ruby, the junk yard vette Cleetus McFarland owns. She makes extremely consistent 8sec 1/4 mile passes on a stock bottom end 5.3. Yeah she has heads and a cam and a decently sized single turbo but the bottom end keeps it all together, keep in mind that bottom end is holding 1300hp at the tire.
I never looked at it the way you explained it, buy a truck engine for 1600 or so and throw 6000 at it and you would have a way faster engine than an LS3. Plus you can stroke these engines as well, 5.3 can go out to 383 and 6.0 can go to about 408 maybe even larger without being sleeved.
Can you please respond how much power can one realistically look to get out of a 6.7L 408 lq9 NA? I had my mind completely set on getting an LS3 as well, but the information you broke down in this video definitely changed my mind and save me thousands thank you.
Many 5.3s have flat top pistons. I believe it's just the aluminium block H.O. versions though, L33, LH6, LC9 etc... Stock LS3 is 430HP, easily 450HP with headers. Takes a bit of work on a 4.8 or 5.3 to get there. A reliable 350-400HP NA on a cheap junkyard engine with a decent cam is realistic. I'm building a budget junkyard L33 with a stock LS3 cam and a carb, just for fun, to see how it works out.
the 6ltr l77 l98 l76 are by far the best bang for buck, why would anyone spend 2 or 3 k on a ls1 or 5.3 motor that is 20 plus years old, with dated at best ecu tech My choice 100 percent is the 6ltr
A 6L80 is absolutely not "a 4L80 with two more gears". The 6L80 is a ZF designed unit that GM and Ford bought licensing to reproduce, the 4L80 is based on a TH400 as some internals will interchange between the two. The only thing the 680 and 480 have in common is the Dexron 6 fluid.
Great video! Enjoyed the content, I’m looking into a 5.3 vortex for a Porsche swap, my question is, if it’s from a salvage yard, should I rebuild it or run it as is, it has low miles and from a wrecked truck…wasn’t sure if the heads or cam or pistons needed to be replace for precaution.
Those Harbor Freight engine stands sure sag like he’ll. They must be made 3 cyl Dihatsu motors. Buy a L99, L92 block and BUILD an LS3 stroke, don’t waste you dough on all the stock parts that won’t use or don’t want to use, buy a premium block and build away...
Jovani Dante Griego Not if you know where to source the parts. LS3 base car and Truck motors are becoming way more affordable by wreckers if you absolutely have to buy a a whole motor. If you’re the helpless type then it will be more, if you’re a DIY guy then not so much. I could build one hell of an LS3 for $7k
What inline fuel pumps do you suggest for cars that in -tank fuel pumps are not offered? Thinking mild build to stock, drive-ability being the factor. Being broke down on side of the road because of fuel pump is no bueno.
Dont quote my numbers but i think an aluminum block LS saves you close to 100Lbs probly another 35 for aluminum heads than an all iron block and head LS, maybe another 25 over and above a n olsschool SBC. 135+ lbs off the front of your car is going to make a significant difference, in acceleration and even more difference in handling. Shaving that much weight on front of any car i assume would be like swapping in a bigger antisway bar, there just will not be that extra weight swaying your car around corners. But this only matters to some people, even then situationally. When i lived in the country around pittsburgh with all those curvy winding roads , i wanted the best handling car i could get so i didnt have to drive 25-40 mph all the way home. Versus living in a square grid layed out city , handling wasnt so much of a big deal.
I just need money so I do anything and move away from parents. I miss living California. I wasted ten years going to school to get a bachelor's because I was told to focus on school this entire life. I graduated in December 2018, did an amazing Summer internship in 2019 while living in the Bay Area, and now 2020 came with coronavirus apocalypse and I had no job and I did not make any money. I have accomplished nothing in this life. I don't even know why I exist.
I have a 86 C10 with the original 305 still working but smoking. I want to a ls swap with a ls1 from a corvette. I have not been able to locate an engine with decent miles for a decent price. I am basically building for my enjoyment. I have owned a couple of vettes and I like the stock hp. I have a 700R4 transmission but I will install a 4L80.
Could I recommend a 5.3 or 6.0 truck engine? They have more torque and less top end but with a good cam and heads will perform just as much or better than an ls1
Ive got a 88 obs single cab silverado that i want to bring back to daily driver status. What engine would be the best mix of fuel economy and power? A stock ls3 6.2, or a 5.3 with a single turbo? I figure both choices would get close to the same power in the end, but which one would use less gas to get there?
Engine with most starting horsepower for around $600 I would like to add Fuel Pump Fuel Rail Fuel Injectors Exhaust Manifold Headers Cam Shaft ECU 2 very small turbos Innercooler Would it produce 500 horsepower at the wheel?
Nice, messy garage; sure that you know where everything is-ha ha! Thanks for the LS explanations. I have a 1970 Chevelle and will be replacing the 307 (which ran like a champ in its day) with a more modern setup. Now that I've learned that an LS3 has an electric throttle body, I will avoid that because I want to retain as much stock performance as I can; is it correct to say that the LS1 and LS2 still use a conventional throttle cable?
FREEZER RACING I loved my canned 454 big block. Gas was just a headache to deal with anytime I drove it more than a few times a week. (I loved driving my camaro) Ls swap half way done I’m going to love the power and supercharger eventually and gas won’t be as big of a headache. Reliability is great also
Hi Jovani, I ran across your vid while looking into LS engine topics. I have a 78 trans-am with an olds 403 that I'm working on getting to run again. I found out that the olds 403 is a pretty lack luster engine and have been thinking of doing an LS swap in the future. I thought that LS3 would be something to shoot for until I saw your vid. I would like to use the car as a daily driver but what to have the power if I need it. Any recommendations on which LS I should look to instead of the LS3?
It really depends on budget. Which is the key point I was trying to make here. Alot of people just getting into this will go ask a shop or builder what they should go with and many times they'll want you to spend 7 or 8k on an LS3 because it makes the power out of the box. But you have to factor in everything else needed for the swap, you'll end up spending 12k for 400hp. The ls1 is a damn good engine for the price and since your short on hood clearance will come with the shorter intake and accessories you need.
LS2/6 is also a good choice. If you go vortec route just know youll run into hood clearance issues but you can always buy a nice FAST intake to fix that
I have a 2013 2wd chevy tahoe ls with 5.3L engine and 6l80 trans. I previously had a 1995 gmc pickup with 5.7L and 4-speed auto with overdrive. The 5.3L is gutless compared with the 5.7L, the engine seems to have little torque and struggles with hills unlike the 5.7L which had no trouble. Any suggestions to fix this problem, I don't really want to swap the engine to get more torque?
First check what rear end gears you have. That plays a major role in the "feel". Next find yourself a local Dyno shop or tuner and have them lower or eliminate torque management and give it a tune.
You sure know your ls/ truck motors man. I want to put a truck 6.0 in my 96 impala ss n/a with cam, long tube headers and a tune, what obstacles do you think I will run into and what all will I need to make that happen?
I have a 1981 Cadillac coupe deville with the 4.1 v6 with a bad transmission. It will coast around $3,300 to get trans rebuilt, along with the other engine problems, let's say around $5,500 to get it rolling again. What options do i have at this price point finding a reliable, or fully rebuilt complete setup? Thanks!
id love to hear your thoughts of the truck variants of these engines, which i believe is the same heads crank and rods, almost the same pistons, different cam manifolds accessories and oil pan. ive seen them go for muuch lower prices then the actual ls3
No trucks came with LS3's They are very different 6.2 430HP. It's a corvette engine starting in 2008 and has high performance block, large intake valves, heads,Intake manifold, crank and more. Good step up from the ls2. N/A stock bottom end plus high compression pistons for racing(15:1)is capable of 800HP @ 8000+RPM.
Hello Javani, thank you for being honest. Love the video. I have a 2009 Colorado with a 2.9 with a 5 speed. I would like to know what is your opinion on what motor to install with my 5 speed transmission? Thank you in advance. Joe.
I have an 08 canyon, it's got an LS3 427 stroker, I've swapped several S10s, I've swapped 3 colorados and then my personal Canyon. I'd say the easiest motor to swap with it is the 5.3, the Colorados came with them from the factory, so it's just about no customization, and no need for a new or different tranny. The 6.0 will need minor fabrication and whether the application is a daily or for performance, the tranny will hold up to bolt on upgraded LS engines. If the engine is built for performance, you're gonna have to get a better tranny. The Colorados are very very easy to swap, easier than the S10s even tho I've done very many, the Colorados are just so open and very minor if needed fabrication and any part needed can be bought or even made. Best of luck with your swap!
What would you recommend for a 3rd gen camaro and would like a manual transmission which one fits for the engine you recommend.Thanks bro . Great video
For around $8K you can get an all new, solid quality, SBC 427 stroker making well over 500 horse and torque- More power than stock LS3 for the price. Factory, stock LS3 is one thing but performance LS builders are WAY more expensive. Ive seen LS crate engine 550-650-700+ horsepower are $15K to over $20K Personally I still dont like the boring looks of the LS style engine.
@@JovaniDanteGriego They seem to be trendy in the civilian world, but you dont see those on the major race tracks- Nascar and Top Fuel, Monster Jam, ect...
remember(no one does) the hood is closed 99.9% of the time.meaning ,it doesn't matter what shape the valve covers are or if they are properly designed(like the ls is)\ reliability,economy,strength and performance are what matters not what the engine is labelled as.its silly to not use an engine because it works well,is cheap and is proven to deliver what you need at a good price because its"boring" your opinion is like an asshole,it shouldn't be seen OR HEARD.
Great video, very informative. One problem though is that we don't have the truck motors here in Australia. I, starting a build on a 76 C20 and was thinking of using an LS2, unless you have a better option?
@@billy300m You can get more power! I would find a 2nd block and build it instead of the original! Your original is a matching numbers! 1969 -1971 were some super good muscle car years!
Winston Hayes it had a small block in it when I bought it the 454 is not the original. I bought the 454 and put a mild cam in it so far and planed to take it to a motor shop to get more power out of it I don’t know a lot about it or what to do to the motor
I have a GM Performance Parts LS376/480 in my 2007 Sierra Classic 1500. Upgraded the 4L65E. To a 4L85E. Changed out the 9 bolt rear end for a 14 bolt AAM. This gentleman is complaining about an engine hanging by chains. Get off your chair dude.
Soooo 7K for 2012 grand sport LS3 (53k miles and 3K stage 2 4L80E $950 for the stall converter for my 72 cutlass really didn't know any better I was told LS3 out a vette was the way to go
Big Block, and build it for torque. Too many people talk Horsepower but not enough about Torque. You can have an SBC or LS make 600+ horse but for that price you can build a 454/468 or maybe even 496 and have enough money left over for a new transmission that will handle the abuse.
You mention the lq4 and lq9 but not the ly6. Ly6 is got the 823 heads. The only negative is its vvt, your going to change your cam anyway. Its not that much to delete the vvt. Didn't mention the l92 because of it's vvt, but its basically a ls3 minus the intake and not so good ls3 cam.
6.0 ls out of a work van: $250, rebuilt the heads and put an ls9 cam in it and boom my Camaro is just as fast as a new one 😃 total cost of my swap was $1400
What heads did you get?
Sultan Jackson /
Stock heads I just picked up ls3 valve springs, & valve guide seals
How can i get in touch with you? I want to get an ls and need some help. Thanks!
Any porting?
Lima Bravo that’s awesome
im here from oz to tell you you do need an ls3
😂
The LS3 sucks *as a budget swap motor*. It’s hard to beat an ls3 if you already have one 😂
Yeah, It sucks for the pocket to those who doesn't have deep ones doesn't make it negative for engine swap lol.
Your pocket doesn't dictate how much an engine may "suck" or not.
@@alekssbelskis3544 Yes, it does. I have no money to even tune or turbo my Genesis coupe, let a alone do an engine swap
@bikotheanimator6169 you need a horse and buggy 😂😂
@@SS_Gang777daaaamn why u do him like that 🤦🏿🤣🤣🤣☠️💀☠️
I got 4.8 fully forged going into my 62 impala for a turbo build.this engine is a beast
Engine model?
I put a 6 speed ls1 in my 62 ss impala its so much fun
I don't call 100lbs of difference a "minimal amount" of weight when choosing between aluminum or iron blocks. That drastically changes the handling of pretty much any vehicle. Now if the original engine was iron block, sure the truck motor is the easy choice. When swapping into something like a light Japanese car, that can ruin the balance. This is very application and purpose specific.
Frupidity
Put a steel block in a vette and you will never be able to sell it!
Now I feel better about my LQ9 purchase with all wiring, computer and trans for $1500
That's what I want to yank out to put in my CTS base. I have a 5.3L in the burb I'm tempted to swap in that too lol
I just picked up an l92 with 80,000for my 2000 c5 corvette. Same exact motor as the ls3 only difference is it has solid valves, VVT, and different cam. Same block same heads. Picked it up for 3000$.
Keep in mind that, although you certainly CAN do something like drop a cam into a 5.3 to equal an LS3 power-wise, the end result is not going to be nearly the same thing. The LS3 will have a MUCH more favorable torque curve, both in terms of the amount of torque AND the availability of that torque throughout the RPM range. The LS3 will probably get better gas mileage as well. And it will be easier and more pleasant to deal with on a daily basis if you are using it for a daily driver.
Facts 100%. It all comes down to goals. Daily street machines need linear torque from 0 to 4000 ish RPM. Thats what I say.
The 6.0 is closer.
Two things not discussed were sound and looks. I went back and forth trying to decide on putting a used Vortec truck engine in my 72 Blazer or a new 350 crate SBC engine with FI putting out 475hp. Ultimately, I decided to go with the SBC because I wanted the old school look and the old school engine rumble. It also comes with a 3 year warranty.
jim cochran how much did you pay for the 350 engine and where did you buy it from? I can’t decide either
@@blist3274 I got mine on ebay from the hotrodcompany - it's a full turn key solution with a serpentine belt system, AC, chrome, air cleaner, engine part upgrades, etc for $5,100. If you don't want all that you can get base SBC engines from JEGS or Summit Racing for a lot less.
jim cochran thanks appreciate it.
you were afraid of the wiring ,fuel system and efi,dont worry i wont tell.im in the same boat!!
@@jimcochran3712 For a cast block th SB is the cheapest way to go for parts.
LY6 is what I used on my last NA build.
How much horsepower does it make
Not enough 😂@@gerardojuarez6938
You can make a lq4/lq9 into a LS3.
Intake , heads , water pump , ECT
Just takes a few little mods but very doable.
You actually need to bore it and maybe have to resleeve it.. converting a 6.0 to a 6.2 is pointless and even more expensive than to source a 6.2 at a junk yard or a pull out.. the Heads are $600 each just do that math. At that point just port the stock heads and stroke the 6.0 to something bigger paying all that money to get only 0.2 of a litter is rhe dumbest thing anyone can do
Yeah maybe if you do a l96 it has ls3 head already ........get it bored and use the ls3 internals then it’d be worth it but you got to do say to much .....Going from the cathedral port to square ......injectors are diff to an plugs whole harness name near .......well to go from lq4/lq9
Rodolfo Munoz yeah it’s more than just little mods. Needs cam, timing cover, valley cover valves, valves springs, all Intake sensors and convert the crank from 24 tooth to 58 tooth. 6.0 does not have the knock sensors at the bottoms so there is no way to convert a 6.0 to a legit ls3. It has to be the l96 like you said. He can probably get away with intake and heads only but still no ls3.
If you not running boost and you going n/a just get a 6.2 I did the math from 5.3 build to 5.7 6.0.. you gotta get heads $$ and all it just starts to go over your budget
Unless you know alchemy and can make iron turn into aluminum, they will never be the same.
Difference between iron and aluminum block negligible at best???? What are you smoking guy?
It’s 100-80 pounds. Iron blocks are about 10 times stronger too so boost isn’t a problem
@@alexchristian5399 very true huge differences... then there's forged aluminum blocks.
@@OminousCamaroSS yea I wish that iron blocks weren’t so heavy because that would get rid of the weight distribution problem when swapping them
$7,546.72 LS3 Corvette engine from summit racing equipment
@@DATSUN72067 😱
I hv a LS3 swap in my restomod, I dont hv ANY regrets about it. It runs super fast,and very good. Im not a racer. Not saying anything is wrong with the 5.3,or 6.0( I destroyed my buddies that hv those) ,but a great engine without modifications , ita a great choice. I agree 5.3,and 6.0 are also great on a lower budget build, because we all hv budget builds. Haha
Luck lucky. Did u use the existing wire or change the wires ? If hou did which wire brand did you used ?
How difficult was it ?
Thank you enjoy your ride .
Dont want to outrun the cops I just like to smoke the tires every now and then.
I AM !!
Ah... The LS3 block is just over 100 lbs lighter than a comperable iron block. That's actually huge. That's a 10th or a second off on a quarter mile run (as a general rule). To me, that's worth it alone! Add in the improved cooling, and that's a done deal...
That weight is up front so that's less traction, braking and handling especially on the street. Even worse with a couple of heavy cooled turbos up front.
LS3 doesn't suck at all i just recently got a built one you have 3 options. Go carburetored or get a holley terminator for dbc or keep it dbw I definitely don't won't dbw it won't be cheap either way
The best part or parts of the ls3 is the intake and large valve heads but you will need a 4" bore min to use them. The low dollar intake with a cable 92tb offsets the price of the heads to make them a high flowing steal for any 6.0 + block. My 418 n/a ls2 runs in the 10's. No turbos. daily driver.
Same here.
Good video and I agree with you that for the money the 5.3 can make all the horse power you need compared to an LS3. Your right on the blocks but I would like to add I've been given 4.8's wearing the same heads and if you intend to go through the motor Gen 4 5.3 rotating assemblies bolt right in or you can over bore and use 5.7 pistons. The LM7 5.3 I'm currently building for a C10 truck project is using the stock long block and a TBSS intake with the reworked harness and computer from the stock truck. The most expansive part was the cam but it's good for 55 horse power over stock, add a bushed rocker kit, LS6 valve springs and new LS2 timing chain an uncorked 5.3 (no cats, High flow intake) will make 430 HP all day long and I've built more than a few of these and I have around $2000 in it. Check out Texas Speeds dyno runs on an otherwise a stock 5.3 on TH-cam, I've had similar results and I'm always looking for used parts. Flat top 4.8 pistons in a 5.3 will bump compression just over a half point, cheap horse power. The set I'm using in my current build were given to me. Even the lowly 4.8 will put out plenty of power for any street ride, I put one in an S10 with a BW World Class T5, mid length headers and a used LS1 manifold and LS6 cam, throwaway parts and it was scary fast. You don't need big inches and fancy parts to make LS's run.
This is some solid information . Thank you for sharing
Ken Fischmann I’m running a 5.3 4L60 in my 66c10 rat rod/ street rod. 64,000 miles on it new headers and a few others things. I decided to buy a 2002 Tahoe running for $1500 and just pulled and placed it in my c10... with a few modifications just motor mounts really. But I’m around 360-380 hp and it flys, truck is bagged new frame off, but I believe an old build 4.8/5.3 is perfectly fine depending on if it’s your preference and $$. But if it’s a sema build or one your trying to sell them off course LS3/Ls7 will bring more $. Gotta pay to play. I just like my 5.3
Your a REAL hot rodder buddy,,that's what real rodders do,,not just throw money at it
Nice video - all good points made. Currently I have an LS3 in my 06' GTO (from an 08 Vette), but if I ever decide to build another boost motor, you know I'll be looking at the 4.8 or 5.3 truck blocks.
the problem with "lots of options" is the one you pick is always the wrong one (usually because of some obscure and "unknown" bullshit)
If TH-cam allowed memes.... man I'd have a field day.
@Brett Collins haha haha haha
i got a 5.3 truck motor from a farmer for 200 cdn and another 80 if he finds ecu , manifolds and starter and besides the dirty oil in bottom of the pan this motor looks so clean in the undergirdle and under the valve covers that it almost looks pressure washed which im pretty sure it wasnt as theres no hint of water anywhere, just no varnishing and no sludge build up.
some guy said to always use the same non synthetic oil and you wont have sludge buildup or bad varnishing. i suspect this farmer bought his oil by the barrel and always used same stuff at regular intervals.
Pulled a 6.2L from a 08 Denali at my local upull for $275 intake to oil pan with front accessories. In my 69 firebird now with Texas speed stage 3 cam, headers, head studs was $850 for cam and vvt delete cost 3 times more than the engine lol
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with 80k miles and cam swapped it, then i put it in place of my my stock aluminum block 5.3 in my Silverado, then sold the 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of swap it was worth it. Did that 2 years ago and have been looking for a deal like that since
Damn nice! I can't find a complete ls3 for less than 5k..
Dope vid, I’m so glad I watched this one☝️
soo much info, thanks for the rambling,
i was definetly listening 👂
These vids are great! Keep it up! Im soaking up all this knowledge to LS swap my 79 toyota Cressida 🤘🏽⚡️
I am LS swapping my LS. The possibilities are limitless. 5.3 to 6.0... btw 240k on my 5.3 and looked like new inside!
At first you were loosing me,then you proved your case, you like me have a very analytical mind!
Awesome man! I appreciate it!
Adam Brooks *losing
NA LS3 with CNC stock heads and a moderate cam makes 650 crank with 1 5/8 headers. Other LS flavors have different pistons with lesser compression. Yes the LS3 costs more but is ready for power where the other engines require work. If you want more power, ultimately you will pay for it.
I mean boost is cheap enough and I can most likely build a much higher hp 5.3 for the price of a ls3
I've also never seen 650 from head work and cam on an LS3 . I think that's pretty optimistic
with the only part being replaced is the cam and the rest modified, it's easy. Again, 650 is moderate. You can get higher gains with more money in NA. I didn't want to replace the rotating assembly and chose to leave it stock. I kept the power at 640-650 crank since I spin the engine to 7k all day at the track.
The ls3 came out in 2008 lol my lsx came out of a Junkyard then I rebuilt it and my $200 4l80 maunlal valve body then put a turbo off a 7.3l superduty.... I have way less than $7000 in my whole GTO plus have no computer problems
Nice man!
@@JovaniDanteGriego thx great video I just love junkyard ls motors man. If it turns over it will runn haja
Ls3 20k miles 3k 4l80 stage 1 2k btr cam lifters etc. Let's say I think 1k that's what I spent oh yea I got my harness built cause this is for a 96 impala 🤷🏾♂️
Check my ls3 swap out on Instagram my G.... Fast Ass 96SS
@@jasonslaughter2811 bet calidslim is mine
Bruh dead ass that's the same set I'm running too. Did you have make cut out adjustments for the transmission, to get it to fit?
@@twinkie1773 nall cross member they make for that swap
@@calidslim7042 appreciate it bruh. Are satisfied with the swap?
If you lost your rubber bumpers for the hood, I know where they are!
😅👀😅😅
I had a 5.3 In my silverado for years swap a ls3 in it. And not disappointed at all!!!
I don’t know if I agree with this. Depends on the situation and if buying complete with computer, wiring, etc. I bought a used 6.0 truck motor as a long block basically. Did come with coil packs. Paid $250 and that’s a steal in todays world. Friends dad went through the it for me for $500 labor. $200 to his friend at the machine shop for a hone, cam bearing install, and polished crank. $500 parts on his end. New bearings, new rings, new oil pump, timing chain etc. cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, swap oil pan, dip stick and I’m at roughly $2700 in a used iron block budget build. Double that and I can buy a brand new from GM all aluminum 6.2 with better heads and all. Yes $2700 is a lot of money but I’d get a brand new engine with better parts. Going to sell my current engine to a friend and order an ls3 for my swap. Fixing up junkyard stuff nickels and dimes you. If I paid $750-1000 for the donor and went with a comp or other name brand cam it would’ve looked even worse on paper.
As I'm an old guy (grew up around first gen Sbc) slowly gathering parts for my Vega,,, so far have extra clean set of 823 casting heads w/rockers I picked up for $600,,,(back in 2018)this year I picked up a 6.2 truck short block (l98) in great shape,($750, according to my local engine builder ,,,just on fence about a efi or carburetor,, was looking at an e-Street or ez-efi idk,,,
With the money you'll spend on a good carb intake and ignition I would suggest you spend a little more on the Holley Terminator system. I don't think you'll regret it at all.
if you have an L98 you have an f-body (camaro,trans am,corvette)old school 350 and it isnt an ls engine.
are the headers/manifolds equally spaced or are the center two pipes on the head close together?
if you buy an ls buy the entire engine together with wiring harness
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 sorry typo, it,s a l92 6.2 truck heads,,,
I've had and many of my friends have had great success with the ls3 is a GOAT of the engine world
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with only 40 k miles and then sold my aluminum 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of truck cam I couldn’t tune it down. Now I’m looking for another low miles LS3 for my 68 camaro and will not pay more than $3500
Country side prices ^ I suppose city prices are crazy
Get an L92 and upgrade heads intake injectors and cam to Ls9 ull save money and get more horsepower and torque
3k for a used ls3 where did you find it please let me know thank u
Once again ls3 for 3k low miles that’s crazy wish I can
I traded a little tattoo work for my LS3 & transmission, truck version...& that was for the full donor vehicle, so I've got the matching differential if I want to use it as well, so basically it didn't cost me anything but a little time & effort...if I'd just paid the guy for it, the whole thing would've cost me $600...if it were going to even approach $7K, I'd have just bought a crate engine...
What is an LS3 truck version????
Yes I do need an LS3! Build it from bottom up. Made 563 to the wheel all na stroked 415 too
First of all, thank you for everything you do.
Got a 66 ElCamino want to swap LS .
Which LS is easier to install. LS 3 electronic pedal and transmission should be easier. I’m not worried about power . Thank you
For a classic car often times its up to preference. Your existing pedal will work with a cable so if your looking to only have to worry about cable length then drive by cable would be good. If you aren't concerned about fabricating the right pedal mount or can find an adapter plate for the LS pedal for your car then drive by wire is good. Either one can be made to work with modification
@@JovaniDanteGriego thank you for responding I really appreciate it. We know there are so many different videos with different ideas. I saw a video that was explaining the difficulty of modifications if you are working from small garage with out the right tools can be difficult. Which is my situation. And Im able to get a complete LS 3 with all the hardware in very good price with only 34 k miles .
The existing wire has few problems and some rusty areas around dash instrument. Do u have any recommendations on wire set up . Thanks 🙏
I've been having pretty good luck with the cheap Amazon wiring but I know exactly what should go where and stuff, so if you want something that's going to be exactly what you need hit up lsxspecialties
they are the same block as the Aluminum 5.7 LS1 bore is just different. There is 2 types of 5.3s the LM7 which is a Iron Block and the L33 which is Aluminum. I prefer the iron block, doesnt warp like aluminum and takes a better beating. No one pays thousands for a truck engine. junkyards sell those for 300 to 600 dollars and 1000 for a 6.0 Lq9. the only reason truck engine isnt worth it to someone is if you are dropping it into your 98 Firebird cause you have to Buy the Trans am K member, LS1 Fbody relocator accessories like the alternator and power steering pump, Fbody LS1 Oil pan. and most cases LS1 Intake. Then you have to change the Injectors to Car injectors or buy adapters for the truck ones. Then the Biggest hurtle is the Harness, you Have to use a Fbody harness from a v8 trans am or camaro cause the truck harness is not remotely close for set up and it doesnt have the 3 dash connectors going into the passenger side firewall into the kickpanel, C210 C220, C230. Fbody LS harnesses are 275 to 300 bucks easily. so there is a few things you have to do to make it work but its still worth it to me cause i already bought all the stuff needed.
The reason LS3 costs more is it came out in 2008. The aluminum block is the "performance"' block and since the Camaro was not being produced these are quite hard to find. On a side note the aluminum block saves about 100 lbs compared to its cast iron brother. Not huge but it is a consideration. In other words at that juncture this was a Corvette only motor. Ask yourself how many Corvettes have found their way to the junk yard compared to how many people would like to get their hands on one of these? Then ask yourself how seriously can you take a guy wearing those ridiculous things in his ears.
Yea dude judge me on my gauges 🙄
Where planning on putting a 480 HP LS3 into my mom's 2010 Camaro RS when her V6 goes out.
Good luck but chances are none of the modules are going to work well or not like stock after, I know many that have tried this and most of time you'll lose most of your interior module connectivity. I'd love to try it myself one day
It makes better sense financialy and save all the headaches to buy a Camaro with its original LS3 in it.
@@squidusn71 Exactly mate and it definitely makes wayyyyyyy more sense than buying a brand new 2020 Camaro ingeneral and not to mention that the 480 HP hot cammed LS3 will make more power than the factory LS3 and as well as the factory LT1 anyway.
@@CJColvin yes sir, swaping in a v8 into a car that came with a v6 is not as simple as people think as well. But if you could score a rolling chasis Camaro SS for cheap, then that might be a different story. By all means install an lsx or a ls427. Next spring, I will be putting my brand new LS3 480hp crate into my 69 Camaro that I bought as a rolling chassis. I paid 5k dollars only for the engine, I say only because theyre about almost 8k now lol. I didn't want to buy it at the time because I wasn't ready for an engine but I couldn't pass it up. A tremec TKO 600 5speed will be behind it.
We bore 6.0 blocks to 4.065 bore all the time. You get a 6.2 without the cost of the LS3 Block.
Of course you need a 6.2 crank.
Iron vs aluminum block weight difference is about 100 lbs.
I paid 1800 for motor and 900 for 6l80e
To each there own the LS2 and LS3 have floating connecting rods stock the LS1 does not plus the bore is only 3.89 any real hot rodder wants at least a 4 inch bore l can say if your thinking about a LS1 a LS 5.3 equipped with the same components power output is close or comparable another plus for aluminum block engines is they dissipate heat faster run cooler than a iron block counterparts the aluminum block LS engines can support 650 naturally aspirated horsepower if your going turbos or blower l can see using a iron block because they are stronger but remember that extra strength will cost you 100 pounds in the worst place on you car or truck right over the front tires my LS2 can make a pass at the track in 95 degree heat the temperature never goes above 180 with the hood open in between races a half an hour later it cools down to 130 degrees my old style smallblock chevy would run 200 degrees after a run at track and in between races with hood open a half an hour would cool to 190 degrees plus the L-92 or LS3 heads Kick-Ass and flow like crazy can only be used on engines with a 4 inch or larger bore can't be used on 4.8,5.3,5.7 LS engines the bore is under 4 inch ditch the stock fuel injection on the LS3 get a GM performance single plane intake manifold a 750 or 850 holley double pumper carburetor or holley sniper EFI and a MSD box for a LS no more problem with electronic gas petal bullshit
I put an LS3 in my 1973 Datsun 510 2 door and did several passes quarter mile @7.5
7.5 In The 8th???
Its not cart blanc , it’s carte blanche . I completely agree with your statements , it’s cheaper to build a LS . I’m presently building a LQ4 .
My bad. French isn't my strong suit I guess!
I’m not gonna say the LS3 sucks they are light weight and can be built up as long as you don’t want more than 800hp. But to his point on the 4.8&5.3 take a look at Ruby, the junk yard vette Cleetus McFarland owns. She makes extremely consistent 8sec 1/4 mile passes on a stock bottom end 5.3. Yeah she has heads and a cam and a decently sized single turbo but the bottom end keeps it all together, keep in mind that bottom end is holding 1300hp at the tire.
I never looked at it the way you explained it, buy a truck engine for 1600 or so and throw 6000 at it and you would have a way faster engine than an LS3. Plus you can stroke these engines as well, 5.3 can go out to 383 and 6.0 can go to about 408 maybe even larger without being sleeved.
Yea man. Texas speed has been doing this for some time!
Can you please respond how much power can one realistically look to get out of a 6.7L 408 lq9 NA? I had my mind completely set on getting an LS3 as well, but the information you broke down in this video definitely changed my mind and save me thousands thank you.
@@bobnewhart4318 I would say with that displacement 500 _600 is easily acheivable with a cam
Many 5.3s have flat top pistons. I believe it's just the aluminium block H.O. versions though, L33, LH6, LC9 etc...
Stock LS3 is 430HP, easily 450HP with headers. Takes a bit of work on a 4.8 or 5.3 to get there. A reliable 350-400HP NA on a cheap junkyard engine with a decent cam is realistic.
I'm building a budget junkyard L33 with a stock LS3 cam and a carb, just for fun, to see how it works out.
I picked up a 6.0 out of a vortex Max for 100$ and that makes 420 horsepower right out of the truck so why would I spend 7000$ for the same power
the 6ltr l77 l98 l76 are by far the best bang for buck, why would anyone spend 2 or 3 k on a ls1 or 5.3 motor that is 20 plus years old, with dated at best ecu tech
My choice 100 percent is the 6ltr
Especially with a tune and mods......Great flow - L76
A 6L80 is absolutely not "a 4L80 with two more gears". The 6L80 is a ZF designed unit that GM and Ford bought licensing to reproduce, the 4L80 is based on a TH400 as some internals will interchange between the two. The only thing the 680 and 480 have in common is the Dexron 6 fluid.
Thank you so much man for this video. I been fighting with other TH-camrs about this forever it seems.
Naw y’all are just haters
Great video! Enjoyed the content, I’m looking into a 5.3 vortex for a Porsche swap, my question is, if it’s from a salvage yard, should I rebuild it or run it as is, it has low miles and from a wrecked truck…wasn’t sure if the heads or cam or pistons needed to be replace for precaution.
If you know it runs no need to disassemble, once you open it up you let the magic out!
hey man you should really do away with the ear things, they suck
You mean his gauges 🤣
Yeah...
Hard to take someone seriously who has those. Or could convince themselves that they are remotely "cool." Yikes.
Those Harbor Freight engine stands sure sag like he’ll. They must be made 3 cyl Dihatsu motors. Buy a L99, L92 block and BUILD an LS3 stroke, don’t waste you dough on all the stock parts that won’t use or don’t want to use, buy a premium block and build away...
And spend 7k doing it
Jovani Dante Griego Not if you know where to source the parts. LS3 base car and Truck motors are becoming way more affordable by wreckers if you absolutely have to buy a a whole motor. If you’re the helpless type then it will be more, if you’re a DIY guy then not so much. I could build one hell of an LS3 for $7k
I got 615 h.p and 575 torque with my lq4 with a.f.r. heads and an aggressive cam , headers bigger injectors...
I agree....bought a 6.0 block $275.00 had a 1998 crank rods, 200.00 to bore ...crank was clean, pistons 170.00. Traded 243 heads for LS3 style.
Thank you from Australia ✌🏼
What inline fuel pumps do you suggest for cars that in -tank fuel pumps are not offered? Thinking mild build to stock, drive-ability being the factor. Being broke down on side of the road because of fuel pump is no bueno.
This is the walbro part number for the Chinese one I use amzn.to/2YAd45D
Thank you for the knowledge. Please drop an LS1 in my 64 on a budget.
If you remove the flywheel the crankshaft is marked 4.8 or 5.3. It is ink marked so it maybe gone. Most if the time it's still readable
I've never looked for that. Thanks for the tip!
Dont quote my numbers but i think an aluminum block LS saves you close to 100Lbs probly another 35 for aluminum heads than an all iron block and head LS, maybe another 25 over and above a n olsschool SBC. 135+ lbs off the front of your car is going to make a significant difference, in acceleration and even more difference in handling. Shaving that much weight on front of any car i assume would be like swapping in a bigger antisway bar, there just will not be that extra weight swaying your car around corners.
But this only matters to some people, even then situationally.
When i lived in the country around pittsburgh with all those curvy winding roads , i wanted the best handling car i could get so i didnt have to drive 25-40 mph all the way home.
Versus living in a square grid layed out city , handling wasnt so much of a big deal.
I just need money so I do anything and move away from parents. I miss living California. I wasted ten years going to school to get a bachelor's because I was told to focus on school this entire life. I graduated in December 2018, did an amazing Summer internship in 2019 while living in the Bay Area, and now 2020 came with coronavirus apocalypse and I had no job and I did not make any money. I have accomplished nothing in this life. I don't even know why I exist.
I have a 86 C10 with the original 305 still working but smoking. I want to a ls swap with a ls1 from a corvette. I have not been able to locate an engine with decent miles for a decent price. I am basically building for my enjoyment. I have owned a couple of vettes and I like the stock hp. I have a 700R4 transmission but I will install a 4L80.
Could I recommend a 5.3 or 6.0 truck engine? They have more torque and less top end but with a good cam and heads will perform just as much or better than an ls1
Ive got a 88 obs single cab silverado that i want to bring back to daily driver status.
What engine would be the best mix of fuel economy and power?
A stock ls3 6.2, or a 5.3 with a single turbo?
I figure both choices would get close to the same power in the end, but which one would use less gas to get there?
Engine with most starting horsepower for around $600
I would like to add
Fuel Pump
Fuel Rail
Fuel Injectors
Exhaust Manifold Headers
Cam Shaft
ECU
2 very small turbos
Innercooler
Would it produce 500 horsepower at the wheel?
Nice, messy garage; sure that you know where everything is-ha ha! Thanks for the LS explanations. I have a 1970 Chevelle and will be replacing the 307 (which ran like a champ in its day) with a more modern setup. Now that I've learned that an LS3 has an electric throttle body, I will avoid that because I want to retain as much stock performance as I can; is it correct to say that the LS1 and LS2 still use a conventional throttle cable?
Ls1 uses factory cable tb, all can be converted dependent on ecu
@@JovaniDanteGriego Thanks; still in the early, early planning stages with this one.
I dont care what no one say a big block is just better but i personally have a nitrous ls powered car and run low 5's in a 1/8 on tight budget
FREEZER RACING I loved my canned 454 big block. Gas was just a headache to deal with anytime I drove it more than a few times a week. (I loved driving my camaro)
Ls swap half way done I’m going to love the power and supercharger eventually and gas won’t be as big of a headache. Reliability is great also
Hi Jovani, I ran across your vid while looking into LS engine topics. I have a 78 trans-am with an olds 403 that I'm working on getting to run again. I found out that the olds 403 is a pretty lack luster engine and have been thinking of doing an LS swap in the future. I thought that LS3 would be something to shoot for until I saw your vid. I would like to use the car as a daily driver but what to have the power if I need it. Any recommendations on which LS I should look to instead of the LS3?
It really depends on budget. Which is the key point I was trying to make here. Alot of people just getting into this will go ask a shop or builder what they should go with and many times they'll want you to spend 7 or 8k on an LS3 because it makes the power out of the box. But you have to factor in everything else needed for the swap, you'll end up spending 12k for 400hp. The ls1 is a damn good engine for the price and since your short on hood clearance will come with the shorter intake and accessories you need.
LS2/6 is also a good choice. If you go vortec route just know youll run into hood clearance issues but you can always buy a nice FAST intake to fix that
@@JovaniDanteGriego Thanks Jovani, this really helps. I'll look into the LS1 and 2 as options in stead of the LS3. Especially budget wise.
Did you say you have a 65 Chevelle?
Thought I heard that too
I have a 2013 2wd chevy tahoe ls with 5.3L engine and 6l80 trans. I previously had a 1995 gmc pickup with 5.7L and 4-speed auto with overdrive. The 5.3L is gutless compared with the 5.7L, the engine seems to have little torque and struggles with hills unlike the 5.7L which had no trouble. Any suggestions to fix this problem, I don't really want to swap the engine to get more torque?
First check what rear end gears you have. That plays a major role in the "feel".
Next find yourself a local Dyno shop or tuner and have them lower or eliminate torque management and give it a tune.
Thanks I’m staying old school LS 5.3 6.0
You sure know your ls/ truck motors man. I want to put a truck 6.0 in my 96 impala ss n/a with cam, long tube headers and a tune, what obstacles do you think I will run into and what all will I need to make that happen?
I have a 1981 Cadillac coupe deville with the 4.1 v6 with a bad transmission. It will coast around $3,300 to get trans rebuilt, along with the other engine problems, let's say around $5,500 to get it rolling again. What options do i have at this price point finding a reliable, or fully rebuilt complete setup? Thanks!
ALUMINUM - save about 100 pounds, that's HUGE.. Also TRUCK set ups have a much taller intakes.
Save a 100 lbs but spend 4000 more. It's not worth it. You can get an aluminum 6.0 or 5.3 for less still
@@JovaniDanteGriego what do the LM4 cost?
id love to hear your thoughts of the truck variants of these engines, which i believe is the same heads crank and rods, almost the same pistons, different cam manifolds accessories and oil pan. ive seen them go for muuch lower prices then the actual ls3
The truck crankshaft isn't gun drilled like the ls3 and the valves are solid stem other than that basically the same
No trucks came with LS3's They are very different 6.2 430HP. It's a corvette engine starting in 2008 and has high performance block, large intake valves, heads,Intake manifold, crank and more. Good step up from the ls2. N/A stock bottom end plus high compression pistons for racing(15:1)is capable of 800HP @ 8000+RPM.
Hello Javani, thank you for being honest. Love the video. I have a 2009 Colorado with a 2.9 with a 5 speed. I would like to know what is your opinion on what motor to install with my 5 speed transmission? Thank you in advance. Joe.
I have an 08 canyon, it's got an LS3 427 stroker, I've swapped several S10s, I've swapped 3 colorados and then my personal Canyon. I'd say the easiest motor to swap with it is the 5.3, the Colorados came with them from the factory, so it's just about no customization, and no need for a new or different tranny. The 6.0 will need minor fabrication and whether the application is a daily or for performance, the tranny will hold up to bolt on upgraded LS engines. If the engine is built for performance, you're gonna have to get a better tranny. The Colorados are very very easy to swap, easier than the S10s even tho I've done very many, the Colorados are just so open and very minor if needed fabrication and any part needed can be bought or even made. Best of luck with your swap!
What would you recommend for a 3rd gen camaro and would like a manual transmission which one fits for the engine you recommend.Thanks bro .
Great video
LS1 or 5.3 and t56
Got a built corvette ls2 in my 99z28 still goin 10 years later i beat the sht out of it lol
How
Question! Would it be possible to use one of those 6.0L Vortec engines on a 80’s iroc build ?
Yea the intake might not clear so you might have to use a LS1 intake/accessories
For around $8K you can get an all new, solid quality, SBC 427 stroker making well over 500 horse and torque- More power than stock LS3 for the price.
Factory, stock LS3 is one thing but performance LS builders are WAY more expensive. Ive seen LS crate engine 550-650-700+ horsepower are $15K to over $20K
Personally I still dont like the boring looks of the LS style engine.
Apples to apples the LS will always be better because it used the building blocks and fundamentals from the SBC and brought them into the 21st century
@@JovaniDanteGriego
They seem to be trendy in the civilian world, but you dont see those on the major race tracks- Nascar and Top Fuel, Monster Jam, ect...
My point exactly. Sooo not worth buying ls3
remember(no one does) the hood is closed 99.9% of the time.meaning ,it doesn't matter what shape the valve covers are or if they are properly designed(like the ls is)\
reliability,economy,strength and performance are what matters not what the engine is labelled as.its silly to not use an engine because it works well,is cheap and is proven to deliver what you need at a good price because its"boring" your opinion is like an asshole,it shouldn't be seen OR HEARD.
I'd only buy an ls3 for a restomod build just so the buyer will pay more for better quality and reliability
100lbs is massive weight difference, it will significantly affect how your car handles
If your going for a autocross build sure. But for your average Joe it's not that big of a deal
Great video, very informative. One problem though is that we don't have the truck motors here in Australia. I, starting a build on a 76 C20 and was thinking of using an LS2, unless you have a better option?
Dang ! I didn't know you guys didn't have truck motors. Ls2 I feel is the best of all the car motors so yes. I can ship you a 5.3 😉
@@JovaniDanteGriego yeah, it's unfortunate. Was hoping to go for a 6.0, but what sort of price would I be looking at for one from you?
@@krisclements4983 I have no idea! I know there are people that are trying to set up logistics to get them there though
@@JovaniDanteGriego ok something to look into. What about a build price?
435HP at the crank in the Corvette, 426HP in the Camaro
I have a 71 chevelle with a 454 that is pretty much done do you think I should do a ls swap on it.
I would , u can get big block power on small block gas mileage im in no ?'s
'71 with a 454...NOPE! If it's a original SS, you will killed the value!
Winston Hayes it’s a true ss my mechanic said we can get a lot of power out of the 454 so he said keep the big block
@@billy300m You can get more power! I would find a 2nd block and build it instead of the original! Your original is a matching numbers! 1969 -1971 were some super good muscle car years!
Winston Hayes it had a small block in it when I bought it the 454 is not the original. I bought the 454 and put a mild cam in it so far and planed to take it to a motor shop to get more power out of it I don’t know a lot about it or what to do to the motor
Putting together stuff on paper for third gen swap. N/a want good mileage and light to light. Maybe a pipe dream
I like the idea of an stock l92
@@6sixty1gixxer80 heads and cam l92 would be awesome
I have a GM Performance Parts LS376/480 in my 2007 Sierra Classic 1500. Upgraded the 4L65E. To a 4L85E. Changed out the 9 bolt rear end for a 14 bolt AAM. This gentleman is complaining about an engine hanging by chains. Get off your chair dude.
Ok bud 😂
Well you sold me on getting one now
I’m gonna buy a new short block with new heads and keep my original LS3 for a future LS swap 🤷🏻♂️
Soooo 7K for 2012 grand sport LS3 (53k miles and 3K stage 2 4L80E $950 for the stall converter for my 72 cutlass really didn't know any better I was told LS3 out a vette was the way to go
You sell Ls engines? How can i buy one? Thanks!
for making +600 hp naturally aspirated and still being budget friendly
what recipe would you recommend?
Big Block, and build it for torque. Too many people talk Horsepower but not enough about Torque.
You can have an SBC or LS make 600+ horse but for that price you can build a 454/468 or maybe even 496 and have enough money left over for a new transmission that will handle the abuse.
To make big hp na u need cubes and compression
go big cube ls,forget the big block.
I'm still gonna do it
Doing the on rx8 😃😃😃
I'm just here to try and decide what to drop in a E46 M3 chassis... 😬😄
You mention the lq4 and lq9 but not the ly6. Ly6 is got the 823 heads. The only negative is its vvt, your going to change your cam anyway. Its not that much to delete the vvt. Didn't mention the l92 because of it's vvt, but its basically a ls3 minus the intake and not so good ls3 cam.