Thank you for this list. My son has a 77 Camino he wants to drop a 5.3 into (on a 17 year olds budget) and this really helped him pull the rains back in on wasted money. Keep it up.
Bullshit most use no longer stock bolts and they holdup just fine. Typical americans thinking the rest of the world is stupid at making parts roflmao...the most reliable cars on the planet are ASIAN BUILD NOT AMERICAN
Great videos and advice. As someone who's new to LS engines, its refreshing to see that you don't need a $1k PSI harness, car style intakes and gob's of $$$ thrown at these engines. There's so much info out there and trying to decide what is or isn't needed can be a little daunting. Subbed!
Figured id drop a comment. I have rewatched your ls swap videos over the past few years and will be doing an ls in my jeep cherokee soon. Appreciate all the time and straightforward unbiased information you provide.
Great video. I plan on showing what I'll be using on my swap. Personally, the last thing I want to have is leaks for not changing damaged gaskets. If they can be reused then definitely keep em. I rather change gaskets while the engine is out than have to pull it all out later and regret skipping it. Experience is the best teacher and you may be on point.
I replace some, just not all. I don't just buy a kit because I have an engine. If there's evidence it was leaking, from say, the valve cover, I'll change it. For the most part though, I just put a cam in and go do donuts lol.
Omg best vid ever! Luv the dry humor from a guy like me who enjoys not wasting hard earned money. I almost died when u said “ their stupid junk yard motor” 😂! Subbed and still laughing!
I paid $200 for a Used Breadbox intake with rails and Injectors for my LQ4 tow truck. came with 36lbs injectors because of Flex Fuel model, after I cleaned and painted it, she looks like a super model. $50 for ebay throttle body, $20 Auto Zone C5 Vettel filter/regulator. $30 for Cable throttle Bracket
If you're plopping a truck engine into something so it will run, sure I'm sure this advice is fine. If you're going to push an engine, "junk yard swap" is no longer your project, it was your starting point. How LONG do reused bolts hold this anecdotal power? How much power do you want? You start to get diminishing returns. Maybe the Texas Speed cam is only barely better than whatever you referenced. Eventually, that small difference is the only change you can get. I stopped after 2, but it sounds more like these parts don't suit YOUR purposes. That doesn't make them bad purchases for anyone else.
Thats all he is saying. Its all relative to the situation. You can fix your rig without spending thousands of dollars and getting by with the bare minimum to get back on the road and still be dependable. The guys swearing up and down that you have to have this $400 and that $700 and this $200 and this $900 are the ones selling the bolts and the gaskets and the blowers and the turbos and the whatever. If you're building a mall crawler for looks or even 1500 horsepower monster of course you going to go all out.
Just ran across your channel. I have an 88 K5 with rebuilt stock 350 TBI & rebuilt 700R4. 364k. They’re both tired, but it’s my side chick so I’ve got time to not rush. Rather than dumping money into the current engine or doing a crate replacement, I’m planning a junkyard LS swap. I like how you plan out and have your research. I don’t want to spend a ton and can’t really justify it. I’m aiming for a dependable setup with decent drivability. My parents picked this K5 up on ‘92 so this old girl and I go way back. I’ll be referring to your videos over time, so keep on with the good content. Oh and I saw you praise Harbor Freight. I’m like a triple platinum member there lol. Thank you!
I have gained a lot of valuable information that is going to keep me from wasting a lot of money unnecessarily. I am planning to put a 6.0 in a 65 Chevy C60 truck on a 90s model k3500 chassis with either 19.5 or 22.5 truck wheels. I can't help myself but I am going to waste some money. I want to use the Lokar ls classic coil covers, intake, valley pan with oil filler and front drive kit to give it the look of the stock 327 that was originally in it. I am even going to paint it Chevrolet orange. I know it won't be a bit better than stock stuff but it will look a whole lot cooler. I am probably going to do a rebuild on the engine also. I plan to use the truck around the farm and take road trips in so I am hoping to build something I can get At least 100000 miles out of without touching.
TDE; I like your analysis of cost versus results. So true. Too many guys here posing as great experts at building 1000 + hp engines for huge $$$$$. When can they actually use that power? Be interesting to calculate time in seconds that it produces that power, in its lifetime, vs cost in dollars to build and maintain.
i live and die by the junkyard lol anywhere to save a buck or two im convinced alotta guys spend the extra monet just to be like i spend 6 grand and replaced everything lol
Great video. I believe you should use whatever you have to to get the car back on the road. Upgrade after it's running if you want to. But get the engine in and back on the road especially on a budget.
i turned my LQ4 6.L in to a 6.7 L i added 44ci to 364 ci it made 361 fq and 274 hp to the ground in 2001 Chevy suburban 2500 4X4 with 410 gears in a differentials the 4L80E work's great
Bro all the swap guru's and their sponsors gonna hate for this vid I'm dying laughing glad I found your channel I've Learned so much from you Blessings to you 👍🏾🛠🏎💪🏿
I helped a friend do a LS 6.0 swap into a 77 square body the 6.0 had 292k miles from a totaled truck he got for free, did the swap in two weeks the 77 runs & drives 150% with AC & heat. Has been driven 3hrs to 13 hrs to shows. All he did was tune up the 6.0 that's been almost 2 years ago
@@lopscaste5392 Came from a 03 2500 3/4. He took Engine/transmission, ECU kept ,ost the wiring but sent the harness out to retro fit it in the 77 to make all the gauges, lights work, No cats, but does have two O2 sensors, 77 tranny cross member was modified, drive shaft was also cut down & front yoke changed,had to change fuel lines to work on his cell and fuel pump, I recommend getting a donor vehicle with the engine & tranny ur going to use until ur completely done incase you need something. That's what he did.
Frank M thanks bro! One more question So the Yukon denali trucks 02-04 and Cadillacs 02-04 trucks are the same (horse power and transmission 4l60, 4l80) like the Chevy 2500 3/4 03 or its completely different?
@@lopscaste5392 I think they are the same, but I could be wrong, my buddy who did the swap is a professional training his whole life as a mechanic, I am more of a junkyard dog Haha I would definitely do research to see if there's any big differences. I know the gearing is different from work truck for towing to something like a Cadillac which is like comfort cruiser. Pretty sure he has a just easy going 373 gears he wants to get all programmed next of build a whole new 6.0 with upgrades cause the one he runs now has were guessing something like 325,000 miles on it
i believe everything in this video depends heavily on your intentions. i plan on putting a 300 shot of nitrous through my 5.3 which has had a shit ton of upper end work done and when im pushin a lot of power i will not just be retorquing stock head bolts and reusing head gaskets
Well, when I "push a shit ton of power" I do just retorque stock head bolts and reuse my gaskets, so... If you want to buy new shit for no reason, that's certainly your pejorative. This is America, I'm not here to tell you how to live your life. I am here to tell other's that they won't get cancer if they reuse their headbolts. As a matter of fact, even by the comments here, there are tons of people who have, and some people who just can't sleep at night if they do, but never actually have.
So what if you wanted to take all the money that stuff would've cost, and spend it on things that DO make more power? What all would you buy? What can you do to a 180k mile engine that won't shorten it's lifespan? I want my LS engine to make more power than stock, and last 150k miles minimum. What do you recommend to accomplish that?
I was absolutely talking about bolts, I reuse them, every time, without fail. If you just can't live with yourself reusing the bolts, I wouldn't bother with more stock bolts, I'd skip straight to head studs from China
True, by design a TTY bolt should be replaced every time you take them out. However, if the bolt doesn't bottom out when you reinstall them and torque them properly, you'll usually be okay. Usually. There are always going to be times when this doesn't hold true, though. Just had a coworker reuse head bolts on a 5.3, and one bottomed out and snapped, had to be drilled out. If you check the bolts and they haven't stretched more than 1/16 to 1/8 inch, you'll probably be okay.
Adam and Korey West most manufacturers have a specified max reuse length for torque to yield bolts, as long as you’re under that you are 100% fine. There’s no reason to replace head bolts unless you’re making some serious power.
I purchased the ARP bolts at something like $110 simply because im too stupid to torque the GM ones properly and would like to be able to take them off multiple times when i realized i left something off on the table. I did spent the money on a "fancy" $400 cam because VVT cams are all on that price so really had no choice other than delete it and retro a 3 bolt cam. Lastly i did opt to buy the cheap GM head gaskets over the expensive thinner ones, opted to not mill/port heads since gains would not uield enough return for cost and opted for keeping factory LS3 intake. The way i see it is cheaper and more effective to install a 175 shot of juice for $336 than spend $800 for porting/milling and get maybe 40
Nothin' but the truth here... for us hot rod guys who want to make some ponies without breaking the bank you have some of the best info I've ran across. Thank you for the honesty and research you put into helping the regulars save some serious $
I understand 100% what your are saying. You can have a lot of fun swapping these engines into all types of older model vehicles. This is the roots of hot rodding you take an older model vehicle and put a newer model engine in it because you can't afford to buy a new one. The modern ls is the same parallel as swapping the flat head v8 Ford's into A models and 32s and things of that nature.
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado z71 503897 miles on it still running has a bad tick been there since 39800 miles uses 2 quarts oil every 3000 miles I’m restoring it and working out of it I have a exhaust leak on bank 2 seems I lost power when exhaust leak started has been showing at idle 0 oil pressure for three years going down the road I have 10-18 lb oil pressure you what would be my best move to get more power I put a 5 inch lift on it last week with 35/12.5/27 tires should I build my motor and if I do how can I increase my power or get another 5.3ls and boost it up
Just encountered, again, the Chinesium head bolt problem; shanks are ground wrong and the bolts get stuck in the head before they seat. Last set I'm wasting money on.
Your a trip Dude, LOL, love the rants!! Subbed just for that a while ago. Head bolts are just like any other bolt, Of course if you use them like 10 times then replace them. If any bolt is past it's limit of fatigue then you will never reach the torque spec. Did you know that the torque spec of a bolt is very very close to the failure point by design. Which means if you go like 5 lbs. past the spec which INCLUDES a fresh new bolt, you have damaged the bolt, any bolt. A while ago when I was building an engine, I used one of those pointer torque wrenches and did the torque to yield crap. After the torque to yield step, the outcome was the same as doing just a regular torque on the bolt while watching the gauge on the torque wrench. Think it was just 60 ft. lbs. on the outcome of the torque to yield bolts. Everybody be acting like you are getting some 200 ft. lbs. by just doing the torque to yield step, when actually you are doing it a different way for the tightening of a bolt. No difference from a regular 2 to 3 step torque sequence on a bolt, then doing a 2 step torque sequence and then a 90 degree turn on them. Plus, either way a bolt is tightened on a part, as a whole the outcome is equal pressure on the part.
I feel like there's an exception for everything you said here even though I completely agree with you. For example on the intakes, it's great to run the truck intake except when you need more hood clearance.
The draw back to factory fuel rails is not the rails themselves. It’s the inlet/outlet size and the inability to change the way it’s plumbed. It’s the reason I had to put fuel rails on my LS swapped 52 Chevy with a fuel cell.
I legit am doing a swap and mild build for right at $2000 thats replacing all seals and bearings, camshaft kit, and carb swapped. people dont realise if you be patient amd hunt for parta you can get parta for good prices and also stock gaskets and bearings work great. *only resealing and doing bearings for ease of mind* gonna record everything
ive worked in the automotive industry my entire life and was raised around it so the work and knowledge isnt hard plus I know where to get great deals on things do to the fact I know alot more than the average person. and also waiting on deals or sales days at u pull it yards is a huge help.
I like your content save your money don’t waste it on junk but here is what I’m building it’s a 87 iroc I got a 6.0 for it but I want to keep the stock hood the truck intake is way to tall and I can’t close the hood so what do you suggest on Intake also the stock fuel pump won’t push out enough psi I believe it was something like 15psi so that has to go the truck exhaust won’t work either my question is if you were building this 87 iroc and want to keep the stock hood what would you suggest honest question
Only reason will be doing an aftermarket intake like you’ve shown is to move power up in rpm range so it’ll be easier on parts. Like a diesel when tuning them you want to ramp fueling in you don’t want all power coming in down low or you’ll find out how quick to bend rods. And also why you don’t hit the nitrous off idle. So basically buying to kill power down low. Plus with a 4K stall and cam I have truck intake is done anyway guess coulda said that first
I do agree elgin are better than texas speed, but not btr. Like comp cams, elgin has lazy cam lobe specs. Ive read problems with elgins lobe specs. Ive personally had issues with degreeing texas speed cams and they were lazy lobed. Never had that issue with btr cams. The elgin and tsp cams are the same tho. Elgin makes the jegs and summit cams i believe they are just rebranded. People have alot of issue with improper lobe numbers. I live by btr or isky. Or a custom grind tsp because then i know it was checked for proper lobe. I never use out of the box cams. It seems 1 out of 20 has lazy lobes. Almost like the machine cutting blade or whatever was. Worn out and made another cam before switching it out because it was barely in spec. The rattler cams are nice peices to and cheap. Havnt had issues with them
I'm not really saying Elgin is better than Texas Speed, I'm more saying that the Elgin will do 90% of what 90 % of people want, for 65% of the cost. So bang for the buck... It's hard to justify the cheaper factory cams, because they're not that much cheaper, and also hard to justify the fancy cams, because they're almost double.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah. That is really true. I havnt had a elgin cam go flat on break in. But when i built circle track motors. You could tell the difference in cams in a engine. The guys who wanted 3k-4k super street engines. They got elgin cams ran stock ported heads and intake and always ran mid and pack of track. But also part maybe rhe drivers cause a few have won with that setup. But i when we build 6k-8k package same style shortblock just put better heads and custom grind cam. They normally are front runners they where also more responsive and were smoother at redline. But tsp and elgin ive had lobe heights differ .005 which in a dd wont effect much. But holding redline for 20 laps you notice how imbalanced and how unresponsive it is.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer my bad i didnt mean to knock you so much. I come into a highperformance background. Everytime i hear ls swap and i help someone its because they plan on running low 5s at some point so we overbuild the engine but they may start out at like 800hp running 6's and then build car and get faster till they are pushing 1200 hp or more on twin turbos or a blower. I forget some people just like the reliability of a ls, and they dont need all that stuff. I just would never re use head gaskets that is just me. Unless its my lawn mower cause ive done that with it when i go and re ring it. No point in spend 150 on gaskets for a lawn mower. Rtv that shit and let it eat. Why its been in the family since 1972. sperry rand new Holland lawn tractor. The year before alien bought sperry rand and ford bought new holland. But there is multiple ways to the same answer.
Good info for some body just throwing a ls and turbo in something to make like 500 wheel Hell on my old sbe gen4 4.8 had prc's stage 2.5 CNC port job on my 799s and a LJMS TURBO CAM TOTALLY WORTH THE MONEY. I had some free arp head bolts not studs summits aluminum intake Tb and rails and FIC 160 pounders NX dry plate billet wheel 78/80 turbo in my f body I made 893 wheel
And last month I finally bent 6 rods just trying to beat my personal best which is 5.57 @ 121 I only run 1/8 mile 3200 pound 99 Z28 th400 but I have been running the piss out of this lil 4.8 for over a year bottom end is stock besides new rod bearings and arp rod bolts I weighed them and they are heavier than the stockers so I took a little weight off with a dremel to get as close to stock and gapped the stock rings for the boost and it was a gen 4 motor but its last pass I was gonna jet the nitrous up to 75 but I ended up jetting it up to 125 apparently I had 2 nitrous jets in my pocket I thought there was just 1 lol. Any ways I got the spray on progressive set up when I let go of the tbrake button it starts at 30% and ramps to 100% in 1.10 seconds. Every thing went south when the boost started coming in at around 19 pounds it was the fastest 60ft and 330 the cars ever went but finally after almost 2 years and slowly building my ls1 is finally finished factory ci with Texas speed brand crank and rods and good parts,half filled and arp hardware its gonna get my CNC prc stage 2.5 package on my 799s and the aluminum summit mid rise intake and a VS billet wheel 88mm turbo and keeping the spray just in case Edit I went 5.57 with the 4.8 on boost and spray and 5,69 boost only
Thank you for the tips I would like to do an LS swap on a 85 full size Chevy van planning on building for my son. And I'm trying to get all the advice I can because I know I could get costi real fast
Lol better get him a truck. I know if I had a van at that age I’d have been up to no damn good! Jk. Vans are pretty dang cool. Definitely making a comeback
I'm glad to see you following along! Obviously, some of this stuff is my opinion, whatever, take it with a grain of salt, but man are people on Facebook groups quick to spend your money for you with while you're at it's and whatnot lol.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I bet, I don't facebook, but I have already changed my build a dozen times watching experienced people like yourself. This is a "toy" so I want to have fun and do as much of this swap myself, and keep it K.I.S.S. Thanks
In my experience with my sons 5.3 project we did, we did the whole ARP/China stud thing... Tho China studs are cheaper, so are the 12 point nuts that come with them... So sloppy a fit, they wobble on the stud.. Solution? We used the China studs with real ARP nuts.. Saved money and had zero problems. The ARP nuts are made to much higher standards and fit much better. The China nuts actually distorted and bound on the studs.. So much so , that it twisted one off down in the block ...
Plastic composite fuel rails don’t absorb heat like aluminum either. How in the world is the fuel getting so hot in the rails that detonation is an issue?
Im new to the whole LS Lifestyle. Ive been following looking through all your videos and feel like okay, maybe i can afford to go from 350 small block to LS. And with your very helpfull vids well its making it possible for me... i veca 1969 C10 and an 86 Chevy Scottsdale 5.0. I live in California so smog is an issue but as long as i follow all laws maybe, i can make power and still have a reliable truck for long drives...
California is tricky, but as you said, as long as you follow the laws, like similar GVRW or lower, keep the equipment in tact, etc, you can still double the power of either of your stock engines.
Well there's CARB legal blowers like the Edelbrock, and engines all the way up to the 6.2 were offered in half ton trucks, so you can take it pretty far. Just not as cheaply as the rest of us. But a stock 5.3 should get your 300 all legal.
As far as the cams go if you don’t have springs that can handle the lift of the sloppy stage 2 then the summit car and truck cams are the way to go and they’re cheap. As far as intakes go the stock truck intakes are great but if you need a new one, the Doorman 615-183 is a copy of the FAST LSXRT with a mount for 3 bolt tb’s and the Chinese have copied the copy and I just bought one for $65 new on eBay
MLS gaskets are designed to be reused. As a professional, what you do to unknowing customers cars, isn't the same as what some guy in his shed knowingly goes into with his eyes open. I absolutely disagree that you "get what you pay for" Harbor Freight is an entire franchise built on people getting more than they pay for.
Depends on the type of head bolts. Chevy doesn't use torque to yield bolts and can absolutely be reused. But for less than $50 why would you?But you're incorrect that MLS can always be reused. The whole point of mls is that 1. it's a stronger material than composite gaskets and 2. MLS actually has a spring rate that helps fill gaps during head lift or uneven expansion due to hot spots. This spring rate degrades over time and while not absolutely necessary, after 100k or so it's still a good idea to replace them if you take the heads off. If you're going boosted on a high mileage engine I consider it a necessity.
TurboNFRStwoK the ls OEM head bolts are indeed torque to yield as why you need to torque with anglegauge and not foot pounds and also why many people opt for aftermarket bolts just for the ease of 3 torque to foot pound sequences
Just sub my tech and Dyno days ended in 1988. Finishing my last hot rod 78 Vette aka plastic pig ha ha ha. 496ci 12.5 to 1, with dual stage 3 Stinger jet down to 400 hp. , Added full cage, slicks, and handicap tag! $736 for 116 octane fuel and now!!! I good for 10.5 trips to Kroger and scary happy!!! Retired life has a few good days too!!! Like your video and thank you for sharing!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😇😇😇
I have a GEN IV with the LS3 heads. Sure the sloppy stage 2 cam works, but not as good as a cam that’s designed for the LS3 heads. I went with a higher lift cam and a wider duration. Cost me an extra $200 but it was worth it.
I spent a lot of time looking at dyno curves and camshaft spec sheets. The camshaft is the biggest single factor in how your engine performs, provided you aren’t switching heads. Telling people one size fits all is pretty intellectually lazy, but for those who can’t afford an additional $200 then the sloppy stage two cam is a decent choice. I get pretty tired of people getting up on their high and mighty horse, trying to make those of us who didn’t go with the sloppy stage two cam out to be idiots. It’s an ok cam. The lift is lower than it could be. The duration sacrifices some low end torque. The split is wrong for a rectangular port head and you have to PAY TO COVERT TO A THREE BOLT on a Gen IV, ditching VVT while you’re at it, but let’s not let logic get in the way of a good list.
@@philistineau I'm simply curious if you have a back to back dyno sheet showing how much more power your BTR cam made. That's how you can prove that the extra 200 was worth it. If not you're just pissing in the wind. Is it 20 hp, 50? And hey, if 20hp is worth 200 bucks to you, great. Really no need to be all triggered over it.
I been out of the loop for a while looking forward to swapping an F body fourth GEN 5 speed (3.8) ... I got the car for 100 bucks is pretty clean except for the interior, 40 bucks at the junkyard for a Flowmaster exhaust system, I might try to do this whole project for under 500 bucks be awesome car for that. Found a LSD axle on a junked Firebird for free! I really want a aluminum 5.3 seems important that f body pretty light But anyway thanks for sharing your experience it's awesome!
Dont know how far you got with the swap but the k member is different on the v8 cars there is a guy in my area who buys wrecked ls cars he will sell factory k ember with susp brakes ect for 100 so you should find someone like that probably get the fuel pump and other stuff from someone parting one out for the cheap
Those ARP stud kits are a bit of a problem for budget builders, because when you take into account that they cost almost as much as a whole engine then it means that the budget crowd might cheap out on the engine to afford the stud kit and thus risk buying a crap worn out engine.
I agree with some of what is said. As far as head bolts go I agree with spending the money on ARP hardware for a non race application but I disagree with reusing stock torque to yield bolts. New stock head bolts are pretty cheap from GM.
for the 300 I spend for used ls I just throw it in and run it I might clean it up a little but im not going to take it apart do anything just drop it in and run it I do this for my toy not my daily
Head gasket reuse after being fully torqued and compressed? Why?And at a price of like $30 why would you risk it not sealing after the hours and hours of labor? And anyone advising you to reuse torque to yield bolts is obviously a moron or doesn’t give a rats arse about your block. It is well worth it to buy the ARP head bolts due to the ease of proper torquing. And well worth it to have new headgaskets. The most tedious thing is to have a good way to clean out the bolt holes. Take it from someone who actually has an ls motor and has had it apart many times. Do things the proper way. Cheap isn’t right and 9 times out of 10 it costs more in the long run. Next stupid thing you’ll hear it is A okay to rtv your cam retainer plate.
If you're such a pro, why do you have to keep taking your engine apart :D Also, just go ahead and ignore all the people right here in the comments reusing everything, cuz, dO It riGhT tHe fiRst tImE herp de derp
Rebuilt motor. Had mild cam and new valve train, ls7 lifters. Ls7 lifter failed on cyl 5 exhaust lobe. Gouged cam. Torn apart again to get a radical cam, aftermarket heads and better lifters. I also have worked on other people’s builds. You can reuse headgaskets, hundreds have. For me it’s not feasible to do so. My time is worth something and the risk is not worth the reward. And you’ll be mighty upset when the coating is worn off near a coolant passage or you miss a spec of dirt and it doesn’t seal. And wish you’d dropped 30 bucks instead of half a day of seriously PITA wrenching. And torque to yield bolts are not reusable whatsoever in any application. It might work and when it does it’s great. But when it doesn’t it is usually horrible. So reuse your oem bolts with burred up and stretched threads in your aluminum block and test your luck. Oh and by the way truck intakes DONT FIT without modification for most ls owners and make less peak and less average power across the band vs an ls6 where you need it in a modified motor. I’m glad your experience is different than what I have seen and I’m also glad you have passion in ls motors. But please some less knowledgeable individuals might take all of this to heart and it could bite them right in the ass and they’ll be in a fit of trouble and cost them 3 times as much as if they did it right in the first place. It’s like doing a cam swap and not replacing a timing chain if it’s old. It’s another cheap part with catastrophic disaster if it fails.
I'm so glad The Driveway Engineer came into my feed, this information is insurmountable to some with thick heads. Why wouldn't you want an LS that makes heeps of power for cheaper? Cause it doesn't look cool under the hood? Duck that noise, give me the Driveway Engineer special please!
How would this build be. Rebuild a lq9 or l33 get a salvage gto and swap that in? What else would need to be changed or what would you change? What’s a good transmission under 4K
@@TheDrivewayEngineer To remove weak points. I have 214,000km on my 4.8L and we're going to refresh the top end and upgrade the oil pump and change the cam (comp cams) so it can match my 2200 stall converter better. I guess some of us like to overbuild because "down time" is more costly if something breaks.
2200 rpm is lower than your stock stall speed lol. Your argument to "remove weak points" is like saying you're going to redo your roof every spring just in case. It's not leaking, but hey, it might, better safe than sorry right? There's also no guarantee that your new parts don't fail. For that matter, people are far more likely to turn a running engine into a non-running one than vice versa. If you really want to be safe, and avoid "costly" down time, buy a crate engine with a warranty on it, have it installed at a dealer, then you'll really be covered. My "downtime" doesn't cost me a thing. I don't hot rod, modify, or beat on my only method of transportation. My life is much more peaceful and tranquil that way, but to each his own.
No no no! You never , i mean never reuse head gaskets! You also don't reuse head bolts, these are torque to yield bolts, so once they have been used they cant be used again! As far as the camshaft & fuel rails, you are only partially correct, & if you actually had any real understanding of these you would understand why you would use these. If only doing an LS transplant, or moderate upgrades, you actually don't need these, & may actually lose power by using these, but...these little differences in size, & the custom grinds, etc can be a big difference in a properly designed , & the components matched accordingly, to the desired application. Which most don't even have a clue about. They hear the word "horsepower" & are off the the races. Have no understanding of what, how, where, when & why! You said something about the intake making Horsepower, but losing torque. And so understanding what you are doing & trying to do is really important. Where building a torqued out bad ass street car doesn't need 450 plus flowing cylinder heads & intake, especially when it will most likely never really see over 6,500 RPMs, etc. So now you spent a bunch of $$$ to buy parts that only brought your peak HP to a powerband in which the car will probably not see much of, if ever. And now you have no low end torque, cuz you also didn't do the other necessary upgrades to properly sustain the upgrades. I could go on & on, but i don't have the time, & should be done by all these people making videos!
I reused a headgasket by cleaning it up and spraying it with copper gasket spray, that stuff works great, studs are fine if they havent been streched, you can messure to check.
Hey, JR. Thanks so much for the advice. (My 94 Toyota pickup gets a cammed rebuilt 5.3 tomorrow and man am I nervous) Sorry to bother you, but could you recommend a truly quiet exhaust please? I'm trying to build a genuine sleeper here cuz I go to work at 5am and I don't want to be that jackhole waking the whole damn neighborhood at 5am. My mechanic assures me a big flowmaster will be fine but I'm *extremely* skeptical. This motor is pretty lopey and crackly. I was thinking maybe a big ol stock dump truck muffler maybe? Maybe one off a 6500 dually? Or is a quiet exhaust just pure fantasy? Any of your sage advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks. Signed "Nervous in NC".
People like to buy pretty stuff when the factory ugly stuff lasts 100s of thousands of miles and often out performs. You referenced the intake shoot out, the truck made more lower rpm torque than most and that’s what matters to me not 6000+ rpm horsepower on the street to work or around town. Good vids I just subscribed.
Ms2 this is how long ago it was with shity mac midlengh headers 99 trans am with 134k miles no other mods tuned made 398 to the tire cam and shity headers 02 as Camaro patriot heads and cam kit 595 lift made 349 hp with long tube headers lids bellows all intake bolt ons pulleys ect so yea texas speed makes the best cams for na engines in my opinion
It’s perfectly fine to reuse bolts and gaskets. It seems there are 2 different people in the comments. People that have done it a thousand times with great success and those saying that you can’t do that lol.
@@davidgriffiths5897 I know I'm late but if you did not know you can put your audio into mono mode so the left and right channel are into one channel so then the sound will be duplicated into the right ear. Just remember to turn it back off so it does not throw off the surround sound.
I agree in some ways but trying to disprove everything else around intakes without a controlled test of your own puts you in the same boat! Looking foward to more info
I get what you're saying, but the intake thing has been beat to death, no need to really reinvent the wheel there. I would like to do some cam testing this summer though, I have a call into a local machine shop to see if I can get some engine Dyno time with my gross junkyard engines 😂
Texas Speed has a video showing engine dynographs showing the difference between FAST 102, stock ls3, and a few other aftermarket and the ls3 only makes 3 hp less.
Stock intakes are ok for lower boost levels but when you start running the higher boost levels it pays to spend the money on one. Nothing like putting some 317's on a 5.3l gen 4 with some corn and 25+ pounds of boost.
Probably true, I've not had an issue, but I'm really gearing this towards beginners. All this stuff has a place, but someone's cammed 5.3 with headers isn't really it.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer this is true indeed. I hate seeing people thay don't know any better being told by a speed shop the need -10 fuel lines and rails for a build that's making 5-600 hp. We had a customer we did a turbo blazer for and he was like but the speed shop said blah blah blah...... I said yes and the speed shop makes their money off of unknowing people and doesn't like guys like us that know how to do it lol...
@Turbo Chevelle yeah, you get it, most guys are just putting a cam, maybe a small turbo. I hate to see people getting in way over their heads, swinging for the fences because 1000hp is the new 500, then they get, 3, 4k wrapped up in these builds, something happens, and they're on the Facebook groups desperately trying to get half their money back. A guy like yourself, someone building real race cars, I don't have anything for, that's not my strong suite, I don't do it. But having fun on the weekend and rolling the tires off from a 50mph roll with 5, 600 hp, that's where I live lol. KISS principal should be in effect for most people.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yes sir, keep it simple. Most people have no idea what 1000 hp is or feels like. I have guys come all the time and the fastest thing they have driven is probably truly 300 or so wheel hp and they say oh man I need 1000 hp. Then they want it for next to nothing but have no idea what it takes to reliably do it. We generally tend to turn those guys down because they want a reliable 1000 hp but then want to buy the cheapest unproven junk out there. The problem with that situation is that if you tell them up front that it will make the power but we have no idea the quality of the parts they want to provide or how long it will live then they act as if you shot there dog. If you do make the mistake of doing it for them and it does fail then they want to get on social media and tell the world what a sorry individual you are all the while not knowing what any of this parts or for or do lol....
Hey buddy I like your point of view I'm not a v8 guy but I am look to do an ls1 or the truck motor swap For my son's 1st build (he is turning 15 soon) I'm looking for the fuel friendly set up for Overlanding How would you set it up It's going in a 85 toy rock crawler Fyi I'm running a 22ret Turbo ed 22r ,10 miles a gallon
10 mpg running down the road? Or trail? What size tire? What gear? Anything lifted, geared, with big tires, isn't going to break out of the teens. So it's a lot of miles to pay for an engine swap.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer 10 on the street 4 10 in the axels It's on 35 And I what to do 70 on the road So it has to boost for the 70 mph If I drop 5 29 s I'll only be able to do 50 to 55 It's worth it to me I'm really falling in love with the ls
@@phillipstuart3318 a 5.3 will run 70 with 4.10s but it would be less than optimal, you'd only need to drop to 4.56 or 4.88 though. I would expect 15 mpg or so out of it.
Head Bolts are Torque to yield! Once stretched they won't or should i say "bottom out and wont torque the head down" As they should "Enough"! From the video, it seems he's never really had a decent performance engine or pushed a stock one before, this of course is a very shallow statement as IDFK! Plenty of dyno number out there in regards to gains being made just from camshaft swaps! I agree with intakes on LS's seen the stock ones run to 1000hp and over 30psi of boost, Runner length does effect gains in the rpm range though!
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Sry i should use real number here, not like the exaggerated US HP figures...747RWKW just over your 1000hp "HP" man we dyno cars from the US claiming 500hp+ They barley get to 320KW...
Another great video JR. 👍 As for the fuel rail thing though....the inside diameter isnt the flow restriction on the stock rails. The restriction is from the 3/8 inlet and crossover into the rail and the restriction is even greater at the factory regulator on the return style rails. With enough pump you can overcome that restriction to a point and still makes 1000hp, but the aftermarket rails do away with that restriction by allowing you to use a much larger inlet fitting. My opinion is, If you have to buy a third Walbro 450 to shove enough fuel into the stock rail, why not just buy the aftermarket rails for the same price and get enough flow to make the same power with only two pumps? But this is really only an issue at larger power numbers so for lesser builds I 100% agree aftermarket rails are a waste of money.
Thanks for the kind words! At some point all this stuff becomes valid. But to the guy jamming a salvaged 5.3 into his vehicle, he can just save the money. I mean, I understand where you're coming from brother, I'm more aiming at the guy who's just trying to get something cool running, and seeing all this nonsense on the groups. I'd be willing to bet 90% or more of builds are under 500 how, which as you know, is more than enough to scare the poo out of you in a street car lol.
Im not sure that the main cap bolts are reusable, but I snapped one of mine while going to 80 degrees. So ARP studs went in at a cost of over $300 dollars. I am having some remorse after deciding to rebuild mine. It had 144000 miles on it and everything inside looked almost new. Still had the crosshatch in the cylinders. Probably could have just put a cam in it and valve springs and been ok. Now I have probably $3000 dollars in it and have lost interest.
That's a bummer man, I hate to hear stuff like that. What worse is you'll be lucky to get half your money back. This is what I'm trying to keep beginners away from. Set it to the side and come back to it later, that's what I usually do. Doesn't cost anything to keep it right?
Wish I had four hands...... I’d give this video 4 thumbs DOWWWWNNN
😘
Can you say why ?
@@arnulfob3454 because I said all his favorite parts are a waste of money.
No one likes to hear they wasted money
@@TheDrivewayEngineer well i am going to do my LS swap with your advice , thank you
@@arnulfob3454 do yourself a favor and don't make your decisions based on this young fellows opinions on LS swaps other people or himself.
Thank you for this list. My son has a 77 Camino he wants to drop a 5.3 into (on a 17 year olds budget) and this really helped him pull the rains back in on wasted money. Keep it up.
It's easy to get carried away, I know from experience lol
Tell your soon I said to keep it up! I’m 19 dropping a 5.3 into my 1969 el Camino!
I’ve published documents that had a guy on sloppy do tensile strength tests and the stock reused are stronger than the china studs, just sayin
I'll have to look that up, but you know better than I that they won't listen lol.
You get what you pay for, herp a derp
I found it, thank you, this should be bigger news, I'm going to have to find a way to work those PowerPoints into every conversation now 🤣
Bullshit most use no longer stock bolts and they holdup just fine. Typical americans thinking the rest of the world is stupid at making parts roflmao...the most reliable cars on the planet are ASIAN BUILD NOT AMERICAN
@@MichelLinschoten English?
Somehow they manage to land on the Moon though, weird.
Love your common sense approach to a ls swap. Keep them coming.
Us engineers love the simple approach lol, we're just not allowed to do it at work
Great videos and advice. As someone who's new to LS engines, its refreshing to see that you don't need a $1k PSI harness, car style intakes and gob's of $$$ thrown at these engines. There's so much info out there and trying to decide what is or isn't needed can be a little daunting. Subbed!
Figured id drop a comment. I have rewatched your ls swap videos over the past few years and will be doing an ls in my jeep cherokee soon. Appreciate all the time and straightforward unbiased information you provide.
Bro you are so brutally honest its funny
I love your vids
You've taught me alot I appreciate
Great video. I plan on showing what I'll be using on my swap. Personally, the last thing I want to have is leaks for not changing damaged gaskets. If they can be reused then definitely keep em. I rather change gaskets while the engine is out than have to pull it all out later and regret skipping it. Experience is the best teacher and you may be on point.
I replace some, just not all. I don't just buy a kit because I have an engine. If there's evidence it was leaking, from say, the valve cover, I'll change it. For the most part though, I just put a cam in and go do donuts lol.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer :) Fair enough.
I would love to see someone test which brand of beer box makes the best LS head gasket.
Omg best vid ever! Luv the dry humor from a guy like me who enjoys not wasting hard earned money. I almost died when u said “ their stupid junk yard motor” 😂! Subbed and still laughing!
I would Trust a GM Head bolt with a MILLION Miles on it before I would Trust a China Bolt with ZERO Miles on it
This man always keeps it 100. My go to channel on the ls1 topic.
I paid $200 for a Used Breadbox intake with rails and Injectors for my LQ4 tow truck. came with 36lbs injectors because of Flex Fuel model, after I cleaned and painted it, she looks like a super model. $50 for ebay throttle body, $20 Auto Zone C5 Vettel filter/regulator. $30 for Cable throttle Bracket
Even the head gaskets are re useable?
The MLS ones are
If you're plopping a truck engine into something so it will run, sure I'm sure this advice is fine. If you're going to push an engine, "junk yard swap" is no longer your project, it was your starting point. How LONG do reused bolts hold this anecdotal power?
How much power do you want? You start to get diminishing returns. Maybe the Texas Speed cam is only barely better than whatever you referenced. Eventually, that small difference is the only change you can get.
I stopped after 2, but it sounds more like these parts don't suit YOUR purposes. That doesn't make them bad purchases for anyone else.
Thats all he is saying. Its all relative to the situation. You can fix your rig without spending thousands of dollars and getting by with the bare minimum to get back on the road and still be dependable. The guys swearing up and down that you have to have this $400 and that $700 and this $200 and this $900 are the ones selling the bolts and the gaskets and the blowers and the turbos and the whatever. If you're building a mall crawler for looks or even 1500 horsepower monster of course you going to go all out.
Just ran across your channel. I have an 88 K5 with rebuilt stock 350 TBI & rebuilt 700R4. 364k. They’re both tired, but it’s my side chick so I’ve got time to not rush. Rather than dumping money into the current engine or doing a crate replacement, I’m planning a junkyard LS swap. I like how you plan out and have your research. I don’t want to spend a ton and can’t really justify it. I’m aiming for a dependable setup with decent drivability. My parents picked this K5 up on ‘92 so this old girl and I go way back. I’ll be referring to your videos over time, so keep on with the good content. Oh and I saw you praise Harbor Freight. I’m like a triple platinum member there lol. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, K5's are awesome!
Side chick lmfao.. cant justify spending with the main hahaha thats rich shit
Joe Cla lol
I have gained a lot of valuable information that is going to keep me from wasting a lot of money unnecessarily. I am planning to put a 6.0 in a 65 Chevy C60 truck on a 90s model k3500 chassis with either 19.5 or 22.5 truck wheels. I can't help myself but I am going to waste some money. I want to use the Lokar ls classic coil covers, intake, valley pan with oil filler and front drive kit to give it the look of the stock 327 that was originally in it. I am even going to paint it Chevrolet orange. I know it won't be a bit better than stock stuff but it will look a whole lot cooler. I am probably going to do a rebuild on the engine also. I plan to use the truck around the farm and take road trips in so I am hoping to build something I can get At least 100000 miles out of without touching.
That sounds awesome!
TDE; I like your analysis of cost versus results. So true. Too many guys here posing as great experts at building 1000 + hp engines for huge $$$$$. When can they actually use that power? Be interesting to calculate time in seconds that it produces that power, in its lifetime, vs cost in dollars to build and maintain.
That would be a fun project!
This all sounds great for under 1000hp. How does the saying go “speed, reliability, money” pick two. Fast/cheap= not reliable Good write up tho!
Yeah, anyone making over 1000 hp, I don't have anything for lol, I've never been there. Thanks for watching!
If you just want to go 10,000 miles . go cheap
i live and die by the junkyard lol anywhere to save a buck or two im convinced alotta guys spend the extra monet just to be like i spend 6 grand and replaced everything lol
Yeah, that is part of it, they're the same guys running Amsoil in their 96 Z71 with 289k on it😂
Great video. I believe you should use whatever you have to to get the car back on the road. Upgrade after it's running if you want to. But get the engine in and back on the road especially on a budget.
THat's the general idea, some people can't stick to a plan though lol.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer me included lol.
I'm also guilty lol, trying to get people to avoid the pitfalls.
i turned my LQ4 6.L in to a 6.7 L
i added 44ci to 364 ci
it made 361 fq and 274 hp to the ground
in 2001 Chevy suburban 2500 4X4 with 410 gears in a differentials
the 4L80E work's great
We know, because you've left 53 comments about it
@@TheDrivewayEngineer 🤣🤣
Bro all the swap guru's and their sponsors gonna hate for this vid
I'm dying laughing glad I found your channel I've Learned so much from you
Blessings to you
👍🏾🛠🏎💪🏿
Lol, thanks alot man, I'm glad it helped.
I helped a friend do a LS 6.0 swap into a 77 square body the 6.0 had 292k miles from a totaled truck he got for free, did the swap in two weeks the 77 runs & drives 150% with AC & heat. Has been driven 3hrs to 13 hrs to shows. All he did was tune up the 6.0 that's been almost 2 years ago
That's awesome!
@@lopscaste5392 Came from a 03 2500 3/4. He took Engine/transmission, ECU kept ,ost the wiring but sent the harness out to retro fit it in the 77 to make all the gauges, lights work, No cats, but does have two O2 sensors, 77 tranny cross member was modified, drive shaft was also cut down & front yoke changed,had to change fuel lines to work on his cell and fuel pump, I recommend getting a donor vehicle with the engine & tranny ur going to use until ur completely done incase you need something. That's what he did.
Frank M thanks bro!
One more question
So the Yukon denali trucks 02-04 and Cadillacs 02-04 trucks are the same (horse power and transmission 4l60, 4l80) like the Chevy 2500 3/4 03 or its completely different?
@@lopscaste5392 I think they are the same, but I could be wrong, my buddy who did the swap is a professional training his whole life as a mechanic, I am more of a junkyard dog Haha I would definitely do research to see if there's any big differences. I know the gearing is different from work truck for towing to something like a Cadillac which is like comfort cruiser. Pretty sure he has a just easy going 373 gears he wants to get all programmed next of build a whole new 6.0 with upgrades cause the one he runs now has were guessing something like 325,000 miles on it
Frank M appreciate it your time and responses bro 👍🏻
i believe everything in this video depends heavily on your intentions. i plan on putting a 300 shot of nitrous through my 5.3 which has had a shit ton of upper end work done and when im pushin a lot of power i will not just be retorquing stock head bolts and reusing head gaskets
Well, when I "push a shit ton of power" I do just retorque stock head bolts and reuse my gaskets, so... If you want to buy new shit for no reason, that's certainly your pejorative. This is America, I'm not here to tell you how to live your life.
I am here to tell other's that they won't get cancer if they reuse their headbolts. As a matter of fact, even by the comments here, there are tons of people who have, and some people who just can't sleep at night if they do, but never actually have.
So what if you wanted to take all the money that stuff would've cost, and spend it on things that DO make more power? What all would you buy? What can you do to a 180k mile engine that won't shorten it's lifespan? I want my LS engine to make more power than stock, and last 150k miles minimum. What do you recommend to accomplish that?
The head bolts are torque to yield bolts. They should be replaced.
He was talking about head studs
Pretty sure that he was talking about bolts.
I was absolutely talking about bolts, I reuse them, every time, without fail.
If you just can't live with yourself reusing the bolts, I wouldn't bother with more stock bolts, I'd skip straight to head studs from China
True, by design a TTY bolt should be replaced every time you take them out. However, if the bolt doesn't bottom out when you reinstall them and torque them properly, you'll usually be okay. Usually. There are always going to be times when this doesn't hold true, though. Just had a coworker reuse head bolts on a 5.3, and one bottomed out and snapped, had to be drilled out. If you check the bolts and they haven't stretched more than 1/16 to 1/8 inch, you'll probably be okay.
Adam and Korey West most manufacturers have a specified max reuse length for torque to yield bolts, as long as you’re under that you are 100% fine. There’s no reason to replace head bolts unless you’re making some serious power.
Love the video...Great info for the beginner such as myself. Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
I purchased the ARP bolts at something like $110 simply because im too stupid to torque the GM ones properly and would like to be able to take them off multiple times when i realized i left something off on the table. I did spent the money on a "fancy" $400 cam because VVT cams are all on that price so really had no choice other than delete it and retro a 3 bolt cam. Lastly i did opt to buy the cheap GM head gaskets over the expensive thinner ones, opted to not mill/port heads since gains would not uield enough return for cost and opted for keeping factory LS3 intake. The way i see it is cheaper and more effective to install a 175 shot of juice for $336 than spend $800 for porting/milling and get maybe 40
This dude has solid advise for real a world blue collar Otis like me!
I'm out here in my driveway trying to do burnouts on a budget lol, no sponsors here.
Nothin' but the truth here... for us hot rod guys who want to make some ponies without breaking the bank you have some of the best info I've ran across. Thank you for the honesty and research you put into helping the regulars save some serious $
I understand 100% what your are saying. You can have a lot of fun swapping these engines into all types of older model vehicles. This is the roots of hot rodding you take an older model vehicle and put a newer model engine in it because you can't afford to buy a new one. The modern ls is the same parallel as swapping the flat head v8 Ford's into A models and 32s and things of that nature.
What is the biggest choppiest Camshaft for 6.0/5.3 LS???
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado z71 503897 miles on it still running has a bad tick been there since 39800 miles uses 2 quarts oil every 3000 miles I’m restoring it and working out of it I have a exhaust leak on bank 2 seems I lost power when exhaust leak started has been showing at idle 0 oil pressure for three years going down the road I have 10-18 lb oil pressure you what would be my best move to get more power I put a 5 inch lift on it last week with 35/12.5/27 tires should I build my motor and if I do how can I increase my power or get another 5.3ls and boost it up
Gears
Just encountered, again, the Chinesium head bolt problem; shanks are ground wrong and the bolts get stuck in the head before they seat. Last set I'm wasting money on.
As a long time ls man ive own 4 an bulit 2 for nos i would say arp studs are a must for turbo nos applications
John Salary did you ever not use studs on a turbo?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer once and it made 12 on the gate and lifted the head. Last time we made that dumb mistake.
Your a trip Dude, LOL, love the rants!! Subbed just for that a while ago. Head bolts are just like any other bolt, Of course if you use them like 10 times then replace them. If any bolt is past it's limit of fatigue then you will never reach the torque spec. Did you know that the torque spec of a bolt is very very close to the failure point by design. Which means if you go like 5 lbs. past the spec which INCLUDES a fresh new bolt, you have damaged the bolt, any bolt. A while ago when I was building an engine, I used one of those pointer torque wrenches and did the torque to yield crap. After the torque to yield step, the outcome was the same as doing just a regular torque on the bolt while watching the gauge on the torque wrench. Think it was just 60 ft. lbs. on the outcome of the torque to yield bolts. Everybody be acting like you are getting some 200 ft. lbs. by just doing the torque to yield step, when actually you are doing it a different way for the tightening of a bolt. No difference from a regular 2 to 3 step torque sequence on a bolt, then doing a 2 step torque sequence and then a 90 degree turn on them. Plus, either way a bolt is tightened on a part, as a whole the outcome is equal pressure on the part.
I feel like there's an exception for everything you said here even though I completely agree with you.
For example on the intakes, it's great to run the truck intake except when you need more hood clearance.
Cut a hole in the hood.
Arp headstuds are worth the investment if youre going boost
Id use that aluminum intake if I was to turbo and LS, but I can see why people try to justify they need it anyways It just looks great.
The draw back to factory fuel rails is not the rails themselves. It’s the inlet/outlet size and the inability to change the way it’s plumbed. It’s the reason I had to put fuel rails on my LS swapped 52 Chevy with a fuel cell.
I legit am doing a swap and mild build for right at $2000 thats replacing all seals and bearings, camshaft kit, and carb swapped. people dont realise if you be patient amd hunt for parta you can get parta for good prices and also stock gaskets and bearings work great. *only resealing and doing bearings for ease of mind* gonna record everything
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with that, but the more important point is doing the work, finding the deals, having some patience. You get that.
ive worked in the automotive industry my entire life and was raised around it so the work and knowledge isnt hard plus I know where to get great deals on things do to the fact I know alot more than the average person. and also waiting on deals or sales days at u pull it yards is a huge help.
I like your content save your money don’t waste it on junk but here is what I’m building it’s a 87 iroc I got a 6.0 for it but I want to keep the stock hood the truck intake is way to tall and I can’t close the hood so what do you suggest on Intake also the stock fuel pump won’t push out enough psi I believe it was something like 15psi so that has to go the truck exhaust won’t work either my question is if you were building this 87 iroc and want to keep the stock hood what would you suggest honest question
Only reason will be doing an aftermarket intake like you’ve shown is to move power up in rpm range so it’ll be easier on parts. Like a diesel when tuning them you want to ramp fueling in you don’t want all power coming in down low or you’ll find out how quick to bend rods. And also why you don’t hit the nitrous off idle. So basically buying to kill power down low. Plus with a 4K stall and cam I have truck intake is done anyway guess coulda said that first
When you say to reuse gaskets.....are you reusing head gasket as well?
Yes
I do agree elgin are better than texas speed, but not btr. Like comp cams, elgin has lazy cam lobe specs. Ive read problems with elgins lobe specs. Ive personally had issues with degreeing texas speed cams and they were lazy lobed. Never had that issue with btr cams. The elgin and tsp cams are the same tho. Elgin makes the jegs and summit cams i believe they are just rebranded. People have alot of issue with improper lobe numbers. I live by btr or isky. Or a custom grind tsp because then i know it was checked for proper lobe. I never use out of the box cams. It seems 1 out of 20 has lazy lobes. Almost like the machine cutting blade or whatever was. Worn out and made another cam before switching it out because it was barely in spec. The rattler cams are nice peices to and cheap. Havnt had issues with them
I'm not really saying Elgin is better than Texas Speed, I'm more saying that the Elgin will do 90% of what 90 % of people want, for 65% of the cost.
So bang for the buck... It's hard to justify the cheaper factory cams, because they're not that much cheaper, and also hard to justify the fancy cams, because they're almost double.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah. That is really true. I havnt had a elgin cam go flat on break in. But when i built circle track motors. You could tell the difference in cams in a engine. The guys who wanted 3k-4k super street engines. They got elgin cams ran stock ported heads and intake and always ran mid and pack of track. But also part maybe rhe drivers cause a few have won with that setup. But i when we build 6k-8k package same style shortblock just put better heads and custom grind cam. They normally are front runners they where also more responsive and were smoother at redline. But tsp and elgin ive had lobe heights differ .005 which in a dd wont effect much. But holding redline for 20 laps you notice how imbalanced and how unresponsive it is.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer my bad i didnt mean to knock you so much. I come into a highperformance background. Everytime i hear ls swap and i help someone its because they plan on running low 5s at some point so we overbuild the engine but they may start out at like 800hp running 6's and then build car and get faster till they are pushing 1200 hp or more on twin turbos or a blower. I forget some people just like the reliability of a ls, and they dont need all that stuff. I just would never re use head gaskets that is just me. Unless its my lawn mower cause ive done that with it when i go and re ring it. No point in spend 150 on gaskets for a lawn mower. Rtv that shit and let it eat. Why its been in the family since 1972. sperry rand new Holland lawn tractor. The year before alien bought sperry rand and ford bought new holland. But there is multiple ways to the same answer.
Good info for some body just throwing a ls and turbo in something to make like 500 wheel
Hell on my old sbe gen4 4.8 had prc's stage 2.5 CNC port job on my 799s and a LJMS TURBO CAM TOTALLY WORTH THE MONEY. I had some free arp head bolts not studs summits aluminum intake Tb and rails and FIC 160 pounders NX dry plate billet wheel 78/80 turbo in my f body I made 893 wheel
And last month I finally bent 6 rods just trying to beat my personal best which is 5.57 @ 121 I only run 1/8 mile 3200 pound 99 Z28 th400 but I have been running the piss out of this lil 4.8 for over a year bottom end is stock besides new rod bearings and arp rod bolts I weighed them and they are heavier than the stockers so I took a little weight off with a dremel to get as close to stock and gapped the stock rings for the boost and it was a gen 4 motor but its last pass I was gonna jet the nitrous up to 75 but I ended up jetting it up to 125 apparently I had 2 nitrous jets in my pocket I thought there was just 1 lol. Any ways I got the spray on progressive set up when I let go of the tbrake button it starts at 30% and ramps to 100% in 1.10 seconds. Every thing went south when the boost started coming in at around 19 pounds it was the fastest 60ft and 330 the cars ever went but finally after almost 2 years and slowly building my ls1 is finally finished factory ci with Texas speed brand crank and rods and good parts,half filled and arp hardware its gonna get my CNC prc stage 2.5 package on my 799s and the aluminum summit mid rise intake and a VS billet wheel 88mm turbo and keeping the spray just in case
Edit I went 5.57 with the 4.8 on boost and spray and 5,69 boost only
So???
@@tigerseye73So? you must not have paid much attention to the vid and! SO DO YOU HAVE A MID 5 SECOND SBE LSX SETUP?
I'm building a Ls turbo motor I'm going to change the cam sloppy 2 and some PAC springs and going to reuse everything else. thanks for content
That's the winning formula!
Good cam for turbo to small for na 6.0
Thank you for the tips I would like to do an LS swap on a 85 full size Chevy van planning on building for my son. And I'm trying to get all the advice I can because I know I could get costi real fast
Vans are super cool!
@@TheDrivewayEngineerfor my full-size Chevy pickups C10 he hasn't decided yet. 🤔
Sell the van and get him a truck
Lol better get him a truck. I know if I had a van at that age I’d have been up to no damn good! Jk. Vans are pretty dang cool. Definitely making a comeback
Great content looking forward to my first LS swap .
How did it go. i am going to be doing mine as well and have never swapped an engine
LS is essentially a Ford block look it up
Those junk yard crap engines will probably outlast most rebuilt 350s.
Great info, I am learning. I have already made changes to my LS swap plans due to your education, Thanks.
I'm glad to see you following along! Obviously, some of this stuff is my opinion, whatever, take it with a grain of salt, but man are people on Facebook groups quick to spend your money for you with while you're at it's and whatnot lol.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I bet, I don't facebook, but I have already changed my build a dozen times watching experienced people like yourself. This is a "toy" so I want to have fun and do as much of this swap myself, and keep it K.I.S.S. Thanks
In my experience with my sons 5.3 project we did, we did the whole ARP/China stud thing... Tho China studs are cheaper, so are the 12 point nuts that come with them... So sloppy a fit, they wobble on the stud.. Solution? We used the China studs with real ARP nuts.. Saved money and had zero problems. The ARP nuts are made to much higher standards and fit much better. The China nuts actually distorted and bound on the studs.. So much so , that it twisted one off down in the block ...
That's a good solution 😂
7:09 plastic composite fuel rails don't dissipate heat like aluminum. Helps with pre detonation, it helps when gasoline ignites at 400 degrees
Plastic composite fuel rails don’t absorb heat like aluminum either. How in the world is the fuel getting so hot in the rails that detonation is an issue?
Im new to the whole LS Lifestyle. Ive been following looking through all your videos and feel like okay, maybe i can afford to go from 350 small block to LS. And with your very helpfull vids well its making it possible for me... i veca 1969 C10 and an 86 Chevy Scottsdale 5.0. I live in California so smog is an issue but as long as i follow all laws maybe, i can make power and still have a reliable truck for long drives...
California is tricky, but as you said, as long as you follow the laws, like similar GVRW or lower, keep the equipment in tact, etc, you can still double the power of either of your stock engines.
Possibly near 300 to 500 hp possibly? What you think? Thank you brother.
Well there's CARB legal blowers like the Edelbrock, and engines all the way up to the 6.2 were offered in half ton trucks, so you can take it pretty far.
Just not as cheaply as the rest of us. But a stock 5.3 should get your 300 all legal.
Aftermarket manifold and fuel rails are understandable but the other 3 they’re reason able
I've reused gaskets and head bolts. for me it worked out fine. that's just my story.
As far as the cams go if you don’t have springs that can handle the lift of the sloppy stage 2 then the summit car and truck cams are the way to go and they’re cheap. As far as intakes go the stock truck intakes are great but if you need a new one, the Doorman 615-183 is a copy of the FAST LSXRT with a mount for 3 bolt tb’s and the Chinese have copied the copy and I just bought one for $65 new on eBay
Thank you very much for all of this great information
As a professional I disagree with reusing a head gasket. Also stock bolts should never be reused. You pay for what you get people.
MLS gaskets are designed to be reused.
As a professional, what you do to unknowing customers cars, isn't the same as what some guy in his shed knowingly goes into with his eyes open.
I absolutely disagree that you "get what you pay for" Harbor Freight is an entire franchise built on people getting more than they pay for.
It's funny you disagree and a " professional " like everyone one else with a TH-cam account hahah
Depends on the type of head bolts. Chevy doesn't use torque to yield bolts and can absolutely be reused. But for less than $50 why would you?But you're incorrect that MLS can always be reused. The whole point of mls is that 1. it's a stronger material than composite gaskets and 2. MLS actually has a spring rate that helps fill gaps during head lift or uneven expansion due to hot spots. This spring rate degrades over time and while not absolutely necessary, after 100k or so it's still a good idea to replace them if you take the heads off. If you're going boosted on a high mileage engine I consider it a necessity.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer PREACH IT BROTHA! SAY IT LOUDER!
TurboNFRStwoK the ls OEM head bolts are indeed torque to yield as why you need to torque with anglegauge and not foot pounds and also why many people opt for aftermarket bolts just for the ease of 3 torque to foot pound sequences
Just sub my tech and Dyno days ended in 1988. Finishing my last hot rod 78 Vette aka plastic pig ha ha ha. 496ci 12.5 to 1, with dual stage 3 Stinger jet down to 400 hp. , Added full cage, slicks, and handicap tag! $736 for 116 octane fuel and now!!! I good for 10.5 trips to Kroger and scary happy!!! Retired life has a few good days too!!! Like your video and thank you for sharing!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😇😇😇
That sounds amazing! Enjoy your retirement! And thank you for watching!
I have a GEN IV with the LS3 heads. Sure the sloppy stage 2 cam works, but not as good as a cam that’s designed for the LS3 heads. I went with a higher lift cam and a wider duration. Cost me an extra $200 but it was worth it.
How do you know it was worth it?
I spent a lot of time looking at dyno curves and camshaft spec sheets. The camshaft is the biggest single factor in how your engine performs, provided you aren’t switching heads. Telling people one size fits all is pretty intellectually lazy, but for those who can’t afford an additional $200 then the sloppy stage two cam is a decent choice. I get pretty tired of people getting up on their high and mighty horse, trying to make those of us who didn’t go with the sloppy stage two cam out to be idiots. It’s an ok cam. The lift is lower than it could be. The duration sacrifices some low end torque. The split is wrong for a rectangular port head and you have to PAY TO COVERT TO A THREE BOLT on a Gen IV, ditching VVT while you’re at it, but let’s not let logic get in the way of a good list.
@@philistineau I'm simply curious if you have a back to back dyno sheet showing how much more power your BTR cam made.
That's how you can prove that the extra 200 was worth it. If not you're just pissing in the wind. Is it 20 hp, 50?
And hey, if 20hp is worth 200 bucks to you, great.
Really no need to be all triggered over it.
Thanks for the GREAT information, because I was about to be that guy!
I been out of the loop for a while looking forward to swapping an F body fourth GEN 5 speed (3.8) ... I got the car for 100 bucks is pretty clean except for the interior, 40 bucks at the junkyard for a Flowmaster exhaust system, I might try to do this whole project for under 500 bucks be awesome car for that. Found a LSD axle on a junked Firebird for free! I really want a aluminum 5.3 seems important that f body pretty light
But anyway thanks for sharing your experience it's awesome!
Dont know how far you got with the swap but the k member is different on the v8 cars there is a guy in my area who buys wrecked ls cars he will sell factory k ember with susp brakes ect for 100 so you should find someone like that probably get the fuel pump and other stuff from someone parting one out for the cheap
Those ARP stud kits are a bit of a problem for budget builders, because when you take into account that they cost almost as much as a whole engine then it means that the budget crowd might cheap out on the engine to afford the stud kit and thus risk buying a crap worn out engine.
Thanks for the info!
I agree with some of what is said. As far as head bolts go I agree with spending the money on ARP hardware for a non race application but I disagree with reusing stock torque to yield bolts. New stock head bolts are pretty cheap from GM.
Why did you remove the heads?
Don't remove heads don't need bolts. You didn't pay attention when he spoke, did you.
for the 300 I spend for used ls I just throw it in and run it I might clean it up a little but im not going to take it apart do anything just drop it in and run it I do this for my toy not my daily
If I will do the swap, Old 305 to SL,, the only replace it will be, the oil pan gasket,
Head gasket reuse after being fully torqued and compressed? Why?And at a price of like $30 why would you risk it not sealing after the hours and hours of labor? And anyone advising you to reuse torque to yield bolts is obviously a moron or doesn’t give a rats arse about your block. It is well worth it to buy the ARP head bolts due to the ease of proper torquing. And well worth it to have new headgaskets. The most tedious thing is to have a good way to clean out the bolt holes. Take it from someone who actually has an ls motor and has had it apart many times. Do things the proper way. Cheap isn’t right and 9 times out of 10 it costs more in the long run. Next stupid thing you’ll hear it is A okay to rtv your cam retainer plate.
If you're such a pro, why do you have to keep taking your engine apart :D
Also, just go ahead and ignore all the people right here in the comments reusing everything, cuz, dO It riGhT tHe fiRst tImE herp de derp
Rebuilt motor. Had mild cam and new valve train, ls7 lifters. Ls7 lifter failed on cyl 5 exhaust lobe. Gouged cam. Torn apart again to get a radical cam, aftermarket heads and better lifters. I also have worked on other people’s builds. You can reuse headgaskets, hundreds have. For me it’s not feasible to do so. My time is worth something and the risk is not worth the reward. And you’ll be mighty upset when the coating is worn off near a coolant passage or you miss a spec of dirt and it doesn’t seal. And wish you’d dropped 30 bucks instead of half a day of seriously PITA wrenching. And torque to yield bolts are not reusable whatsoever in any application. It might work and when it does it’s great. But when it doesn’t it is usually horrible. So reuse your oem bolts with burred up and stretched threads in your aluminum block and test your luck. Oh and by the way truck intakes DONT FIT without modification for most ls owners and make less peak and less average power across the band vs an ls6 where you need it in a modified motor.
I’m glad your experience is different than what I have seen and I’m also glad you have passion in ls motors. But please some less knowledgeable individuals might take all of this to heart and it could bite them right in the ass and they’ll be in a fit of trouble and cost them 3 times as much as if they did it right in the first place. It’s like doing a cam swap and not replacing a timing chain if it’s old. It’s another cheap part with catastrophic disaster if it fails.
Isnt it best to try to get rid of all the plastic stuff on the motor and go to aluminium that will last longer?
Plastic lasts forever, that's why it's a problem in landfills
I do love your videos but why did you say reuse head gaskets did you made a mistake or?
No, I'm sincere, the MLS type are totally reusable with a coat of copper spray
@@TheDrivewayEngineer oh okay let me look those up never knew that I'm going to make a purchase tonight wish I knew that before
I'm so glad The Driveway Engineer came into my feed, this information is insurmountable to some with thick heads. Why wouldn't you want an LS that makes heeps of power for cheaper? Cause it doesn't look cool under the hood? Duck that noise, give me the Driveway Engineer special please!
I'm actually going to clean the Jewel up and backdate it for the Olds over the winter lol, but... Function first, form second
How would this build be. Rebuild a lq9 or l33 get a salvage gto and swap that in? What else would need to be changed or what would you change? What’s a good transmission under 4K
Is the video to build the engine the cheapest way possible and not care how long it goes for? Why not change the head gasket if the heads are off?
Why change anything you don't have to?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer To remove weak points. I have 214,000km on my 4.8L and we're going to refresh the top end and upgrade the oil pump and change the cam (comp cams) so it can match my 2200 stall converter better.
I guess some of us like to overbuild because "down time" is more costly if something breaks.
2200 rpm is lower than your stock stall speed lol.
Your argument to "remove weak points" is like saying you're going to redo your roof every spring just in case. It's not leaking, but hey, it might, better safe than sorry right? There's also no guarantee that your new parts don't fail. For that matter, people are far more likely to turn a running engine into a non-running one than vice versa.
If you really want to be safe, and avoid "costly" down time, buy a crate engine with a warranty on it, have it installed at a dealer, then you'll really be covered.
My "downtime" doesn't cost me a thing. I don't hot rod, modify, or beat on my only method of transportation. My life is much more peaceful and tranquil that way, but to each his own.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I'm saying downtime if my vehicle isnt running costs more money overall. Factory stall was 1800
Oh you have a 4L60, nice, reliability :D have fun with that lol.
No no no! You never , i mean never reuse head gaskets! You also don't reuse head bolts, these are torque to yield bolts, so once they have been used they cant be used again!
As far as the camshaft & fuel rails, you are only partially correct, & if you actually had any real understanding of these you would understand why you would use these.
If only doing an LS transplant, or moderate upgrades, you actually don't need these, & may actually lose power by using these, but...these little differences in size, & the custom grinds, etc can be a big difference in a properly designed , & the components matched accordingly, to the desired application. Which most don't even have a clue about. They hear the word "horsepower" & are off the the races. Have no understanding of what, how, where, when & why!
You said something about the intake making Horsepower, but losing torque. And so understanding what you are doing & trying to do is really important. Where building a torqued out bad ass street car doesn't need 450 plus flowing cylinder heads & intake, especially when it will most likely never really see over 6,500 RPMs, etc. So now you spent a bunch of $$$ to buy parts that only brought your peak HP to a powerband in which the car will probably not see much of, if ever. And now you have no low end torque, cuz you also didn't do the other necessary upgrades to properly sustain the upgrades. I could go on & on, but i don't have the time, & should be done by all these people making videos!
You seem like a fun guy 😂
@@TheDrivewayEngineer He said a whole bunch of nothing lol..
I reused a headgasket by cleaning it up and spraying it with copper gasket spray, that stuff works great, studs are fine if they havent been streched, you can messure to check.
Yet again some great info. A budget build is just that, a budget build. An engine looking pretty ain’t necessarily gonna make it any faster.
Hey, JR. Thanks so much for the advice. (My 94 Toyota pickup gets a cammed rebuilt 5.3 tomorrow and man am I nervous) Sorry to bother you, but could you recommend a truly quiet exhaust please? I'm trying to build a genuine sleeper here cuz I go to work at 5am and I don't want to be that jackhole waking the whole damn neighborhood at 5am. My mechanic assures me a big flowmaster will be fine but I'm *extremely* skeptical. This motor is pretty lopey and crackly. I was thinking maybe a big ol stock dump truck muffler maybe? Maybe one off a 6500 dually? Or is a quiet exhaust just pure fantasy? Any of your sage advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks. Signed "Nervous in NC".
Most of the quiet comes from having a full system with tailpipe.
I have Walker Quiet flows on my truck
People like to buy pretty stuff when the factory ugly stuff lasts 100s of thousands of miles and often out performs. You referenced the intake shoot out, the truck made more lower rpm torque than most and that’s what matters to me not 6000+ rpm horsepower on the street to work or around town. Good vids I just subscribed.
Can you give me a recommendation for a better looking budget intake. Not concerned with horsepower gains, just a budget intake. Thank you.
On a budget, you can just shave the stock one for about 40 bucks
But I'm trying to make 1200hp and potentially wick it up, so arp kit doesn't sound bad
Ms2 this is how long ago it was with shity mac midlengh headers 99 trans am with 134k miles no other mods tuned made 398 to the tire cam and shity headers 02 as Camaro patriot heads and cam kit 595 lift made 349 hp with long tube headers lids bellows all intake bolt ons pulleys ect so yea texas speed makes the best cams for na engines in my opinion
I had to quit listening when he said reuse a head gasket
Yeah, why save any money when you can spend it for funsies 😂
It's true I have a friend that's ran 172 at 8:11 reuse the head gaskets 10 times on a stock motor
I quit watching after he saud reuse head bolts this dude has zero clue what he is talking about. An wouldnt buy anything he has owned
It’s perfectly fine to reuse bolts and gaskets. It seems there are 2 different people in the comments. People that have done it a thousand times with great success and those saying that you can’t do that lol.
Just because can doesn't mean you should
My left ear didn’t enjoy this.
lol my right ear was very jealous
@@davidgriffiths5897 I know I'm late but if you did not know you can put your audio into mono mode so the left and right channel are into one channel so then the sound will be duplicated into the right ear. Just remember to turn it back off so it does not throw off the surround sound.
Very informative and very nice 👍🏾
Hope you like my videos too im new to making videos
And also m also looking forward to built my first Ls swap car
If your spraying or running boost id run arp. Especially rod bolts are the weakest link in a ls
15 psi through reused head bolts here. 640 HP in gen iii rods with stock bolts
Im going forged internals and planing over 800whp.
I agree in some ways but trying to disprove everything else around intakes without a controlled test of your own puts you in the same boat! Looking foward to more info
I get what you're saying, but the intake thing has been beat to death, no need to really reinvent the wheel there.
I would like to do some cam testing this summer though, I have a call into a local machine shop to see if I can get some engine Dyno time with my gross junkyard engines 😂
Texas Speed has a video showing engine dynographs showing the difference between FAST 102, stock ls3, and a few other aftermarket and the ls3 only makes 3 hp less.
YeAh, there's a ton of Dyno tests out there.
Can I put the 5.3 vortex out of a 2000 suburban in the front trunk of a 1965 corvair.
If you have enough dedication and welding wire you can lol
Thanks for the information
Good to know, I was interested in a intake for my LS1 Vette.
Stock intakes are ok for lower boost levels but when you start running the higher boost levels it pays to spend the money on one. Nothing like putting some 317's on a 5.3l gen 4 with some corn and 25+ pounds of boost.
Probably true, I've not had an issue, but I'm really gearing this towards beginners.
All this stuff has a place, but someone's cammed 5.3 with headers isn't really it.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer this is true indeed. I hate seeing people thay don't know any better being told by a speed shop the need -10 fuel lines and rails for a build that's making 5-600 hp. We had a customer we did a turbo blazer for and he was like but the speed shop said blah blah blah...... I said yes and the speed shop makes their money off of unknowing people and doesn't like guys like us that know how to do it lol...
Ive seen numerous dyno videos on Matt’s channel of people running 20+ lbs of boost on stock intakes and have never seen one fail
@Turbo Chevelle yeah, you get it, most guys are just putting a cam, maybe a small turbo. I hate to see people getting in way over their heads, swinging for the fences because 1000hp is the new 500, then they get, 3, 4k wrapped up in these builds, something happens, and they're on the Facebook groups desperately trying to get half their money back.
A guy like yourself, someone building real race cars, I don't have anything for, that's not my strong suite, I don't do it. But having fun on the weekend and rolling the tires off from a 50mph roll with 5, 600 hp, that's where I live lol. KISS principal should be in effect for most people.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yes sir, keep it simple. Most people have no idea what 1000 hp is or feels like. I have guys come all the time and the fastest thing they have driven is probably truly 300 or so wheel hp and they say oh man I need 1000 hp. Then they want it for next to nothing but have no idea what it takes to reliably do it. We generally tend to turn those guys down because they want a reliable 1000 hp but then want to buy the cheapest unproven junk out there. The problem with that situation is that if you tell them up front that it will make the power but we have no idea the quality of the parts they want to provide or how long it will live then they act as if you shot there dog. If you do make the mistake of doing it for them and it does fail then they want to get on social media and tell the world what a sorry individual you are all the while not knowing what any of this parts or for or do lol....
Hey buddy
I like your point of view
I'm not a v8 guy but I am look to do an ls1 or the truck motor swap
For my son's 1st build (he is turning 15 soon)
I'm looking for the fuel friendly set up for Overlanding
How would you set it up
It's going in a 85 toy rock crawler
Fyi I'm running a 22ret
Turbo ed 22r ,10 miles a gallon
10 mpg running down the road? Or trail?
What size tire? What gear?
Anything lifted, geared, with big tires, isn't going to break out of the teens.
So it's a lot of miles to pay for an engine swap.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer
10 on the street
4 10 in the axels
It's on 35
And I what to do 70 on the road
So it has to boost for the 70 mph
If I drop 5 29 s I'll only be able to do 50 to 55
It's worth it to me
I'm really falling in love with the ls
@@phillipstuart3318 a 5.3 will run 70 with 4.10s but it would be less than optimal, you'd only need to drop to 4.56 or 4.88 though.
I would expect 15 mpg or so out of it.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer
5.3 all stock truck setup
What truck and year
More or less
Oh and thanks for the info
Head Bolts are Torque to yield! Once stretched they won't or should i say "bottom out and wont torque the head down" As they should "Enough"! From the video, it seems he's never really had a decent performance engine or pushed a stock one before, this of course is a very shallow statement as IDFK! Plenty of dyno number out there in regards to gains being made just from camshaft swaps! I agree with intakes on LS's seen the stock ones run to 1000hp and over 30psi of boost, Runner length does effect gains in the rpm range though!
Man it's a good thing a pro like you came along, whew.... Lucky for the rest of us you were here 😂
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I wonder if you have built a 1000hp motor yet?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Sry i should use real number here, not like the exaggerated US HP figures...747RWKW just over your 1000hp "HP" man we dyno cars from the US claiming 500hp+ They barley get to 320KW...
@@BUZDRIFT NO bro, I appreciate it, link me to your build
@@TheDrivewayEngineer You can check out many of my builds www.asgmotorsports.com.au/
Hey thanks for your help I was thinking about buying one of those intakes for $450 just going to go regular now 👌🏾
This guy knows how to grab info and give it.
That is my special talent lol
Another great video JR. 👍 As for the fuel rail thing though....the inside diameter isnt the flow restriction on the stock rails. The restriction is from the 3/8 inlet and crossover into the rail and the restriction is even greater at the factory regulator on the return style rails. With enough pump you can overcome that restriction to a point and still makes 1000hp, but the aftermarket rails do away with that restriction by allowing you to use a much larger inlet fitting. My opinion is, If you have to buy a third Walbro 450 to shove enough fuel into the stock rail, why not just buy the aftermarket rails for the same price and get enough flow to make the same power with only two pumps? But this is really only an issue at larger power numbers so for lesser builds I 100% agree aftermarket rails are a waste of money.
Thanks for the kind words!
At some point all this stuff becomes valid. But to the guy jamming a salvaged 5.3 into his vehicle, he can just save the money.
I mean, I understand where you're coming from brother, I'm more aiming at the guy who's just trying to get something cool running, and seeing all this nonsense on the groups.
I'd be willing to bet 90% or more of builds are under 500 how, which as you know, is more than enough to scare the poo out of you in a street car lol.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Absolutely. I'd actually say most are even less than that! 😉
The stock fuel rail fittings are the problem, not the rail itself.
The quick release fittings are garbage and a fire hazard when you bump the fuel pressure up beyond their designed range,replace the rails.
Why would you still be using the stock fittings in a swap?
What year LS1 engine should I get to install in my 1985 Trans Am
Whatever one you can find lol
Im not sure that the main cap bolts are reusable, but I snapped one of mine while going to 80 degrees. So ARP studs went in at a cost of over $300 dollars. I am having some remorse after deciding to rebuild mine. It had 144000 miles on it and everything inside looked almost new. Still had the crosshatch in the cylinders. Probably could have just put a cam in it and valve springs and been ok. Now I have probably $3000 dollars in it and have lost interest.
That's a bummer man, I hate to hear stuff like that. What worse is you'll be lucky to get half your money back. This is what I'm trying to keep beginners away from.
Set it to the side and come back to it later, that's what I usually do. Doesn't cost anything to keep it right?
@@TheDrivewayEngineeryou are right. I will hold on to it.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer wanting to put performance (cam) into 5.7 4spd auto australian v8 car. any tips on the cheap
@F Cres the Elgin 1840 is pretty budget friendly, should be available for you on Ebay
@@TheDrivewayEngineer thinking of a turbo kit at some stage. would u stil recommend this cam with a turbo kit?
"Some kinda chinglish stuff" 😂😂😂