UPDATE! 300Tdi belt running off and a very easy way to fit a new belt
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
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Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com
Can't wait till engine goes back in 110 and hear it running as sweet as a nut again and I am sure one happy customer. Thanks for keeping us updated Mike.
I have been thwarted! I thought we were going to grind the crank and ordered 010 undersized bearings for the crank but the idea was changed to put a good used crank in which was standard - so waiting on bearings coming
It's a great idea. Not quite so easy if you are doing it with the engine still in the car, particularly if it's a Disco, but I like it. One thing learned in the dim dark ages with twin cam FIAT engines, which I have transferred to my 300 ways, is to grab a paint pen. Once you have your pump pinned, and your crank locked, put a dob of paint pen stuff from a point on the belt to the corresponding point on the toothed pulleys. Even when replacing the belt, which I would do as a matter of course, you simply lay the new belt against the old and transfer the marks. That way, if a pulley moves you can see straight away that it's wrong.
Actually works well as you are not fighting against the bottom pulley trying to get the belt to pick up all the teeth while trying to get the belt on to the rest of the pulleys
You made that look so easy, thanks a million.
Glad it helped
Great that you got to the bottom of it Mike. I bet there's hundreds of 300Tdis running around, tensioned to the old torque figure and chewing belts
I bet there are a lot of pumps with bad bearings in BUT working fine and not leaking, so the issue goes unnoticed
Another great video
Great video again! Will you show use how to stop rocker gasket from leaking please?
Will do but I use a bit of Hylosil around the gasket
you are the best
Brilliant! Will try this next time i change my belt. Workshop manual mentions loosening off camshaft central bolt whilst tensioning belt have never figured out why??
This system works well as you are not fighting against the bottom pulley when trying to tension up the belt
I have no idea why they loosen the cam sprocket - all it needed was a few mm more on the tensioner
A far easier way to do it is to tighten up the idler nut then remove the tensioner screw altogether allowing the pulley to drop right down . That makes it easy to put the belt on , lever up the tensioner and put the screw part way back in then set up the tension in the usual way .
Thanks for that Mike . Im doing this job today and my question after 1 hour of trying is (after tensioner off tensioner on, of, on, try again, and again, swear bleed ) what am i doing wrong? i don't have any slack at all., Im wondering if i have the wrong belt. The way you do it and say "doddle"...... P. S Did it and it took me all afternoon ! ( doddle lol), just hadn't the belt held tight onto the sprockets,Oh and i needed the wifes help AHHHH man the hunter is shamed....!!!
Practice makes perfect!
Is there anywhere else the timing belt can leak from other then the cam and crank seals inside the cover? Every time we get ours changed they fuck it up and it leaks oil worse then it was previous to changing it. It’s just got me stuffed why?.
The cam shaft seal is a tricky one to change as it is a small thickness the cam face can be damaged
Do you recommend removing the radiator to do the timing be,t and have better access to keep everything square with the seals?
I do, as you can see the timing marks square on
@@BritannicaRestorations I wish you cld add photos here. I believe it’s the cam seal leaking on mine as it was in the last instance. Is there any reasons in particular that would contribute to the cam seal leaking other than failed installation? What things should I be looking for to suggest to the mechanic that completed the work please?
Head over to britrest@britrest.com with this subject - see if I can help
Uhm I think I have a similar issue! My belt is ruined and my guide is wafer thin on the edge
Nice one that is easy as , but my latest stuggle is weather or not to put the lt230 back in with the pto gizmo and dff lock optioñs ,
Which one is best ,please help me solve this brain teaser ,
Gary I think I may have lost this thread - I get over 500 messages a month
What are you trying to do?
MIke
Hi mike so awsomè that you replied thank you , my much loved 1980 2 door classic was hit from behind as i entered my driveway crushing to the seat left hand side , i then cried a bit as i cut it in half and successfully made a ally tray utility and updated the interior to vogue 1995 with rtraction control abs and all those features the vouge offered , including 3.9 v8 and gear boxes and differentials , transfer case is borg warner
Serial nuber 05 5 4383 with viscuss cluch type for outo diff lock , im thinking that i shuold have fitted the lt 230 box with the diff lock and pto options , just dont know which is best manual lock or the auto type , my original lt230 is there ready to put in if you thi nk its best , ive wached your vids on fixs for both ,, and just love the tudoring your awsome 👊
The Viscous Coupling diff lock has a habit of locking up on its own and can stress the drive line
www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/viscous-couplings/range-rover-viscous-coupling.html
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