You had luck with that belt, a mix of old and new pulleys. I had one fail at idle after it was replaced by a mechanic. My car was towed to my mechanic, no bent push rods, etc. I asked the mechanic to check it after a few week; lots of new belt fur. New belt housing because the old one was bent. Like you, I lent my timing kit to someone, who left the pump timing pin in then started the engine. The pump was a throw away. What was worse, the person didn't tell me. Never again. I bought some long grade 12.9, 5mm bolts and large washers to use with the puller to remove the toothed crank pulley; they work well. The last kit I bought had everything, including that washer sized gasket that's stuck the the timing cover. There must be two types of kits.
Very good question Ian and herein lies the confusion! I wanted OEM parts and the kit was STC4096LG HOWEVER there is a kit STC4096LDR which has everything inc seals and the P gasket BUT they are 'copy parts' not original problème n'est-ce pas?
Mike. "Your terrible - Muriel" circa 1994 ! This LR 300Tdi must have the complete collection of possible things which need to be replaced from Malawi mista ? V.
Did my 300 tdi Defender last week, used exactly the same kit as you have there! Ordered the oil seals separately! Had a hell of a job removing crank seal 😒
@@BritannicaRestorations unfortunately I bought an adjustable hook tool and the spring & lock mechanism just gave way! Lesson learnt, buy a fixed one next time 👍🏻
@@BritannicaRestorations yes, that looks like a very practical blasting/painting station. Beats my old plastic patio table, which definately wouldn't take a 300tdi!
If that crank pulley comes loose it can damage the nose of the crank so I can understand people being worried. I'm in the process of reconditioning a 200TDi to replace my 2.5NA with exactly that problem. On the subject, would you recommend the lower torque on the 200TDi timing belt tensioner too? Just set mine to 20NM this weekend.
Hiya from England. Love watching the channel! My cam belt snapped, one broken arm and 6 bent pushrods.... Dropped a valvestem cap down the pushrod hole. Can I fish it out with a magnet or will it drop right through? Thanks Mike James, Folkestone
Yes, try a magnet - could be sat on the top of the tappet - not much room for it to drop further - EDIT Top tip - get a speaker magnet or some strong magnet and stick it on the push rod prior to removal - the push rod will then become magnetized and remove the cap
Thanks, I would have done it already but I can't find my little aerial with a magnet. I've been asleep since I posted. I'll go and buy one today and let you know how I get on 👍😁👍
Perfect, good job I did. Bit of the broken rocker arm came out too so I checked then all and found some more. Finally got the front cover off to find the belt had not snapped. It stripped about 15 to twenty teeth. It was past is best so would that be old age of something else to check? Thanks so far 👍😁👍 Just seen your edit. Good call. I've now got like a radio aerial with a magnet on the end. It works a treat 🤠🤠
Mike, when it comes to timing, Land Rover show two measurements for the back of the pump. 509 pump 1.54mm, (I think you recommended advancing to 1.60mm, an extra 0.06mm) 509/1 pump (for vehicles originally with egr) 1.40mm Do you know if these pumps have actually different cam plate profiles inside? as I have tried setting my 509/1 pump to the standard pump setting of 1.54mm and it sound like a bag of spanner’s, so too far advanced I’m guessing. Any idea on how far I should advance a later 509/1 pump? Or perhaps just add the same 0.06mm, so 1.46mm?
Hi Mike, I have to change the bearing of pulley witch is mounted on the distribution cover. Do you have please the ref of the bearing ? Other question, is STC4096 K a gd ref for a 300tdi witch is upgraded Rgds Vince
See video here th-cam.com/video/DA3TE3UuHXM/w-d-xo.html there is no Rover replacement bearing - you need a John Deere one Kit should be OK as long as you get OEM parts
@@BritannicaRestorations ok, can you say if extracting old bearing and puting in place thé New one need big strentgh ? Since it is inserted in aluminium, i guess not that much, i was wondering if i could helpmyself with a Crick, i have hydrolic one ton.
It is a tight fit, and the aluminium housing needs supporting while pressing it out, as close to the bearing as possible, or you will crack the housing
I wish that my 200tdi was as easy as your 300, I had a right struggle this time doing my cam belt. Mine just has the one jockey/tensioner pulley. I had a struggle with the old Arthur Riteus in my hands, so this will be the last time that I will be doing it. Oh!!!, And a good tip is---- always put something soft along the top of the rad bracket to lean on, or you can get really painful titties, and thats something that you dont need in the cold weather. Great video Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
So good to see and understand, all this is being done on my Wolf this coming week. Thanks Mike. 👍🏻😊
Have fun!
Wolf? Check out the Wolf and Tithonus group if your on Facebook, lots of info about the military Defenders. 👍
Mike bites the dust. 🤣 Cheers Mike 🥃
Love the humour Mike 👍🏼🇬🇧
👍🏻😊
You had luck with that belt, a mix of old and new pulleys.
I had one fail at idle after it was replaced by a mechanic. My car was towed to my mechanic, no bent push rods, etc. I asked the mechanic to check it after a few week; lots of new belt fur.
New belt housing because the old one was bent.
Like you, I lent my timing kit to someone, who left the pump timing pin in then started the engine. The pump was a throw away. What was worse, the person didn't tell me. Never again.
I bought some long grade 12.9, 5mm bolts and large washers to use with the puller to remove the toothed crank pulley; they work well.
The last kit I bought had everything, including that washer sized gasket that's stuck the the timing cover. There must be two types of kits.
Very good question Ian and herein lies the confusion!
I wanted OEM parts and the kit was STC4096LG
HOWEVER there is a kit STC4096LDR which has everything inc seals and the P gasket BUT they are 'copy parts' not original
problème n'est-ce pas?
Mike. "Your terrible - Muriel" circa 1994 ! This LR 300Tdi must have the complete collection of possible things which need to be replaced from Malawi mista ? V.
Did my 300 tdi Defender last week, used exactly the same kit as you have there! Ordered the oil seals separately! Had a hell of a job removing crank seal 😒
The hook tool makes life easy!
@@BritannicaRestorations unfortunately I bought an adjustable hook tool and the spring & lock mechanism just gave way! Lesson learnt, buy a fixed one next time 👍🏻
Mate you so good thanks 👍👍👍👍🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿
No problem 👍
Love the outdoor work bench. Presumably this is fair weather work staton?
It's actually my sandblast and paint station
@@BritannicaRestorations yes, that looks like a very practical blasting/painting station. Beats my old plastic patio table, which definately wouldn't take a 300tdi!
1:55 Loctite?? They're mad. I use anti seize on that pulley.
Yeap! And the only way to get them off is to heat them which buggers the rubber damper
If that crank pulley comes loose it can damage the nose of the crank so I can understand people being worried. I'm in the process of reconditioning a 200TDi to replace my 2.5NA with exactly that problem. On the subject, would you recommend the lower torque on the 200TDi timing belt tensioner too? Just set mine to 20NM this weekend.
The belt tension is an issue with 300Tdi only as far as I am aware
I found out the other day, that a reversing light switch from an R380 gearbox makes an excellent spring loaded flywheel timing pin. Who knew? 🤷♂️😂
Just about all of us! I was keeping it a secret! lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations
You little tinker 😉
Hiya from England. Love watching the channel!
My cam belt snapped, one broken arm and 6 bent pushrods.... Dropped a valvestem cap down the pushrod hole. Can I fish it out with a magnet or will it drop right through? Thanks Mike
James,
Folkestone
Yes, try a magnet - could be sat on the top of the tappet - not much room for it to drop further - EDIT
Top tip - get a speaker magnet or some strong magnet and stick it on the push rod prior to removal - the push rod will then become magnetized and remove the cap
Thanks, I would have done it already but I can't find my little aerial with a magnet. I've been asleep since I posted. I'll go and buy one today and let you know how I get on 👍😁👍
Perfect, good job I did. Bit of the broken rocker arm came out too so I checked then all and found some more. Finally got the front cover off to find the belt had not snapped. It stripped about 15 to twenty teeth. It was past is best so would that be old age of something else to check?
Thanks so far 👍😁👍
Just seen your edit. Good call. I've now got like a radio aerial with a magnet on the end. It works a treat 🤠🤠
mike, i don't hear the phrase completely. you mentioned dry as a nuns what? ;-)
Err - work boots.....
Hi Mike, Hopefully not a daft question. But is it imperative to purchase the tool that fits into the flywheel when changing a cambelt kit? Thanks
Not really but it helps to get the job done right
@@BritannicaRestorations Purchased Mike, Thank you
Mike, how did you secure the crank when loosening the crank bolt?
Engine in the vehicle or out?
Still in.
How did we manage before cordless power tools
hammers....
@@BritannicaRestorations and air tools. THATS WHY WE'RE ALL DEAF. EH, WHAT DID YOU SAY?
Mike, when it comes to timing, Land Rover show two measurements for the back of the pump.
509 pump 1.54mm, (I think you recommended advancing to 1.60mm, an extra 0.06mm)
509/1 pump (for vehicles originally with egr) 1.40mm
Do you know if these pumps have actually different cam plate profiles inside? as I have tried setting my 509/1 pump to the standard pump setting of 1.54mm and it sound like a bag of spanner’s, so too far advanced I’m guessing.
Any idea on how far I should advance a later 509/1 pump? Or perhaps just add the same 0.06mm, so 1.46mm?
Sadly I do not have privilege to access Bosch data - but too far advance will cause problems
Hi Mike, I have to change the bearing of pulley witch is mounted on the distribution cover. Do you have please the ref of the bearing ?
Other question, is STC4096 K a gd ref for a 300tdi witch is upgraded
Rgds
Vince
See video here
th-cam.com/video/DA3TE3UuHXM/w-d-xo.html
there is no Rover replacement bearing - you need a John Deere one
Kit should be OK as long as you get OEM parts
@@BritannicaRestorations you are thé boss..., I ordered the part from JD, €45. Next step, find a place with gd press to change it, have an idea? 😉
You must make sure you correctly measure the original pulley height - the serpentine belts are not very forgiving if they are out of line!
@@BritannicaRestorations ok, can you say if extracting old bearing and puting in place thé New one need big strentgh ? Since it is inserted in aluminium, i guess not that much, i was wondering if i could helpmyself with a Crick, i have hydrolic one ton.
It is a tight fit, and the aluminium housing needs supporting while pressing it out, as close to the bearing as possible, or you will crack the housing
Man, you make me laugh. I've got a small prick somewhere just like yours.
👍🏻😊
Dayco belt made in Italy.
Hello mike. How did you remove the crankshaft sprocket you have?
I already replied to this comment
Is this the heavily breathing engine that you tried the baffle plate on?
Yeap
@@BritannicaRestorations, he didn’t want your rebuilt engine, then? Must be mad to spend all that money on this broken one.
I wish that my 200tdi was as easy as your 300, I had a right struggle this time doing my cam belt. Mine just has the one jockey/tensioner pulley. I had a struggle with the old Arthur Riteus in my hands, so this will be the last time that I will be doing it. Oh!!!, And a good tip is---- always put something soft along the top of the rad bracket to lean on, or you can get really painful titties, and thats something that you dont need in the cold weather. Great video Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
I thought that was a perk of the job Rob!