300 Tdi rebuild. Problems and timing belt fitting part 8
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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Sherbrooke
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Superb quality viewing again. Getting a lot of satisfaction from your work.
Thanks Mike. Brilliant. 😊
Brings back vivid memories of building these engines at Land Rover, Solihull.
360 engines per day over 2 shifts with a 3 minute time cycle.
Your doing a great job of building this engine, pretty much built in the same sequence as it would be done in the factory, be it with some minor deviations from factory spec at the time.👌🏻👍🏻
I note your comments regarding the cyclone, oil and back pressure.
Land Rover 2.5 diesels from the late 80’s pre Gemini, had a similar issues which resulted in oil being drawn into the cylinders via the breather system, resulting in catastrophic engine failure, in particular, cylinder head.
As a large customer this design fault was discovered by the Ministry of Defence who requested Land Rover to replace or repair the affected engines. Project ‘Terry’ was formed to rework some 2,000 engines from U.K. Ministry of Defence Defenders from across the globe. Unfortunately, many private buyers were not afforded the same privileges as the MOD were, thus had to pay for replacement engines.
666DW I remember doing this modification on the army land rovers, ex-REME mechanic
Dunstan Greenbank just over 2.000 engines were stripped out of army defenders and returned to Solihull for refurbishment over 2 years.
We had teams go out to MOD bases over U.K. and Germany to exchange engines.
Some defenders were literally the chassis with an engine such was the damage to some vehicles😆 I guess they had an hard life😬
If the VIN’s identified had an engine in it they were returned, stripped down, cylinders sleeved, most had the cylinder heads replaced due to damage even with delivery miles, they were also modified for 48v alternators.
Fathers day, cuppa coffee and Mike on the TV.... Lifes good 👍👍
...nice to see that Sod's Law applies just as much in Canada as over here!
Lot's of useful information in that one Mike, thank you.
Showing us how much the belt can go slack after being torqued and then turned over was very interesting.
Important information about what happens if you over tighten a belt too.
This is a nice build, going together really well. I think this could be one of those engines that runs super smooth.
Note to the owner, if you read the comments, "Be Patient, it will be worth it, you are going to have a little gem of an engine."
Hi I am the owner. Thank you for that comment. 😉
Never ceases to amaze me how often I find timing covers that require you to fit some kind of washer behind the bolts that go through the middle.
It's like it's a deliberate "booby trap", designed so you crack the cover and have to buy a new one.
These days I just routinely lay a straight-edge across the back of timing covers to check all the heights regardless of whether the service-manual has any warnings about it.
If the boss in the middle of the 300tdi cover is the same height as the edges, it makes sense that you'd need to fit something of the same thickness as the gasket but a lot of timing covers have bosses that are arbitrarily a couple of mm shorter than the edges, so you'll need to work out what thickness of washer you need, including a gasket.
I bet a few have missed this out
Relaxing viewing on a Father's Day in Australia.
A lot if not most of the castings for the British car manufacturing up to the late 80's were made at the Birmid Qualcast foundry in Smethwick, just at the back of the West Bromwich Albion football ground, I worked there for about five years repairing fleet vehicles, top end stuff too, they made castings for BMC, Land Rover, Jaguar, Aston Martin, Rolls Royce, Ford and others too. It was company policy that Company vehicles and cars on the fleet were made in Britain to help support the British car industry. Although I spent most of my time in the fleet garage I had to go into the foundry from time to time, (and What a horrible stinky dirty noisy place it was too), but one thing I do remeber was seeing a very familiar casting which they made was for the ubiquitous Quinton Hazell GWP 134 water pump body fitted across most of the BMC 'A' series engines (850cc, 1000cc, 1100cc, and 1300cc A series engines). I'll always remember the day the operations director came in to collect his car, and he was bemoaning the fact that the board of directors were considering selling the casting process to some foriegn company, and i'll always remember him saying 'If we sell our technology we sell our future', maybe the board of directors had the fore sight to see the beginning of the end, and that foriegn cheaper imports were inevitable, I left not long after that, and several months later the whole plant had shut down, I'll never know for sure wether or not they did sell Their 'Technology' or not, but it would appear that they did (shame really).
Interesting. When I was an apprentice at ICI they cared more about the share prices than investment in new plant, the sold of different plants to make profit and then when there was nothing left to sell they sold out to the Dutch
@@BritannicaRestorations This is the thing that bugs me about the British business owners Unlike the Germans who have pride in owning good companies making quality things and automated there factorise. All that the British care about is making money that will end up being lost in the end where a good company making good stuff can keep going on and on.
The dimis of the British mother industry maybe they should have let the Germans start remanufacturing early instead of stopping them for years after the 2nd war because as soon as the 525 BMW came on to the British roads it was game up, same for the jap bikes and the little BSA bantam didn't cut the cake anymore for the youngsters passed test and wham a 250 Yamaha whoose
Yay!! At last an easy to follow demonstrated video on how to fit the timing belt.
This engine rebuild series is brilliant to watch!
Again thanks Mike for all that you do in teaching us meer mortals on how to do things on our landies and for the entertainment value. 🖒🖒🖒
Thanks!
Mike
Something to look forward to....I'll watch this when I'm done with this 12hr weekend dayshift tonight. 😁
use to be that companies would be proud to put the name prominently on their products
Not when they are made from that special material "Chinesium broken out of the box alloy".
well mike, that will be an engine! awesome video! hope you rebuild one day an old series petrol engine.
Really like you, enjoy the work you do
I appreciate that!
You tempted fate by buying all the other gaskets and not the thickest! I have that thickness on my rebuilt 200. My 300 has the three-hole, which seems by far the most common (so much so I suspect that they never bothered checking protrusion in Solihull and just thew a three hole gasket on all the engines during initial assembly) - as Clarkson put it, a quality control ethos of “that’ll do”.
Hi Nick, do you remember the torque, you put on the timing belt ...
Hein Halbach, I have a vague recollection of it being around 30 odd foot pounds, but it was quite a while ago now. The figures I used were from the same Haynes manual Mike had in these videos - most of their information and text is copied directly from the LR manuals. There are different values for tensioning a brand new or a used belt (lower on the used). I didn’t know LR had reduced the specified tension, so I don’t know if the Haynes figures are original, revised or intermediate values - the first I’d heard of it was in this video!
Edit... I just looked up the figures and they are much lower , so the thirty something must have been for the nut inside the idler pulley, not the belt tension itself. I have come across other references saying the value was dropped to 11nm (I tend to use ‘lbs), most notably Will at LR Workshop, and I know he and Mike are in touch, so they’d both have the correct information. Importantly, Will shows LR diagrams that go out of their way to show that the torque wrench used on the tensioner arm must be started vertically upwards - if you start from a different position, the same value torque on the wrench will apply different values of belt tension due to the geometry of the tensioner backplate and the relative positions of the pivot point, wrench socket and tensioner pulley.
@@DJC75, it all comes down to production tolerances, which in turn come down to production costs. I think we are all well aware that LR tolerances are not comparable to those of companies like Toyota or Mitsubishi.
Thats going to be a realy sweet engine when all done and very informative as well great job Mike
1973 Deck of cards, the soldier if I remember was let off. Great story, reminds me of my dad.
Hi Mike, Severely impressed with this post, Very informative and clearly done, easy to understand. Keep up the Great work on this lump.
You can buy the 300tdi from M.R Automotive in Redcliffe Qld. I used a johndeer tractor water pump bearing and cut the other end off it works very well.
Gav I did the same thing John deer bearing and cut the end off. But a mate of mine uses aussie falcon 6 cylinder water pumps strips them down uses the bearing and also the pulley fan flange nice and cheap. I broke my pulley on reassemble but purchase a maxi drive solid steel one from MR Redcliffe.
Very interesting as ever
Mike, I have pressed out that bearing cartridge for the fan from the front timing cover and the pulley/fan adaptor came off in useable condition. A new cover with the new bearing cartridge is over $300 Aussie dollars here and as you say a direct replacement single ended cartridge bearing is hard to find.
But we are able to get a "double end" cartridge that fits, (diameter and lengths), from an earlyish Ford Falcon water pump for $30, all we need to do is cut one end of the shaft off.
I have heard that - do you have a part number?
@@BritannicaRestorationsit was a while back, but just went to local SKF supplier gave them cartridge and shaft diameters and lengths, they came up with the replacement, they said it was for some Ford. All I had to do was cut the redundant, (inner), shaft end off with a 1mm thick cutting disc without destroying the bearing seal.
Very useful tip about the timing belt 👍👍👍
Another beautiful looking engine mike
Really good video Mike 👍
I had a similar problem on my old 19j engine with back pressure, which regularly flooded the air filter.
The tension for the tensioner is15nm landrover put a bulletin to add more tension to the belt amongst other for that housing
Dziękuję Mike.
On the cyclonic separator, if the drain is discharging above the oil level, then yes I think high upward flow of fumes from a heavy breathing engine flowing via the drain pipe could prevent it working to return oil. Recalling my 2 litre S1 and the 2.6 six cylinder Rover engines have a combined oil filler pipe and gauze mesh vent cap emerging from a cover plate on the exhaust valve tappet cover that should coalesce the oil mist, but can struggle to keep the oil inside reliably . Not sure about the 2286 cc engines or the later 2.5 pre TDI engines ?
Hi air im from srilanka
I like your video
I like work with you
Hey, thanks
Max Bygreaves ....."You need hands......"
Those cyclone separators gum up and the diaphragm sticks down stopping pressure being released (and then the rubber deforms rendering it useless even when cleaned) - much rather the alisport version but they aren't cheap!
Remove the pipe from the crankcase oil separator to the air intake, block the connection at the air intake and divert the crankcase vent pip back into the chassis Left and right towards the rear the jeep, the oil mist will act as a corrosion inhibitor inside the chassis, the lack of oil mist and crank vapors now not going into the turbo and engine will keep the compressor clean and also the intake manifold clean, if you also block egr then the engine will now be running on fresh clean air which will result in more power and smoother running with no build up on valves.
Do those cyclones ever work? Just fitted a Mann provent breather filter and now considering deleting the cyclone and oil return completely. As for Max Bygraves, always thought he was awful until attending a VE celebration event decades ago in the pouring rain and he put on a sparkling performance, almost forgot we were soaked through for a moment
I have given they cyclone some thought and wondered if some sort of restrictor in the pipe would help - I may have to experiment!
th-cam.com/video/S6qXyc5lRdY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MaxBygraves-Topic
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks (I think) for the link! Max performed the pink toothbrush song as I recall...
Hi mike what oil is that thanks
Hi Mike!!!! you asked, Cyclone separators, do they work?? The answer is NO!. They can not work for the simple reason you have a turbo that is creating and vacuum that is always going to be greater than the centrifugal force that is used to separate the oil droplets and allow them to return to the sump via the cyclone by gravity. Things get worse when the air filter is in need of a change as there is more vac created in the pipe between the turbo and the filter element due to the restriction caused by the dirty filter. As I have said before, there is a tell to be told when the inter-cooler keeps getting clogged with oil, and that tale is that the separator is not working or there is a big problem with the turbo. If the pipe that comes from the separator to the air-intake pipe is disconnected (as you did one time ) and left to breath into atmosphere, it will soon become apparent whether it is the turbo or the separator that is at fault just by looking at the blades of the turbo. The best thing that I have ever done to overcome this problem is simple, Drill an hole in the chassis with an hole cutter and run the pipe from the cyclone into that hole. Of coarse the hole in the air-pipe must be blocked off. I did this about 10 years ago on my 200Tdi, and have had no problems, just the occasional smell of oil when the wind is blowing in the wrong direction. Great video Mike. I cant sleep at night now due to the excitement and suspense of waiting for the big start up. All the best and thanks, Yorkshire Rob.
Rob - reading your comment - I wonder if a restrictor in the hose would work? Maybe 1/8 hole?
@@BritannicaRestorations YES!! You are 100% right Mike, even down to the eighth of an inch hole. I tried putting a stainless steel pan-scrub in the pipe which worked quite well in reducing the suction. I also put a short length of rubber piping of 1/8 bore in the breather pipe. I had to wrap some insulation tape round it so that it was a snug fit, and it did work quite well, but the pipe in the chassis appealed to me, mainly because of it lubricating the inside of the chassis. As a fellow Yorkshire man you will understand the appeal of getting sommat fer nowt. Great video Mike please keep them coming.
I'm sure the last time I bought a genuine head gasket for a TDI from LR they stopped doing all the different sizes.
Said there was no need for all the sizes and they only did the three hole one now..
This was a few years ago though.
That doesn’t sound right.
Maybe a lazy person at your local dealer
Hi Mike inspired by your work i got a 110 300 tdi its a 98 lots of work done on it only back on the spanners after a gap of 25 years one problem doing the timing i can only line up the timing on the wrong mark it does look like the clutch was replaced at some time wondering if they replaced the gear wheel with the wrong one it starts and runs great have you seen this before
keep up the good work
This is tricky - I have seen flywheels with different notches for the timing pin so there may be some possibility of mix and match
@@BritannicaRestorations many thanks for the reply mike first notch narrow second fits pin but timing way out but it works great got some great tips from your videos keep up the great work once again thanks
They also used flywheels with 2 cut outs one thin one thick 300 tdi is the thinner timing groove the thicker is 200tdi or early engine 2.5 td with the cast head
Max Bygraves he was naff when he was on the telly, he was a pub crooner that walked through the wrong door and got lucky. BTW that engine looks the dogs b******s, it's a joy working with new parts.
Hi Mike, great vid again on the 300Tdi. Can you tell, whether 11kN is the proper tension for a 200 TDi timing belt as well?
Not sure - not done a 20Tdi for years
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for the quick response.
Hi Mike, why soda blast bolts? Can you use sand? Cheers.
Sand can leave residue and soda washes off with water
Why is the profile on timing belt pulleys flat ? Doesnt it make it easier for the belt to walk? In engineering, flat belts have pulleys that have a slightly convex profile.
I think machining a convex tooth belt pulley would be a nightmare!
97 inch pounds, I think that is approximately 6 Newton meters, does that sound right?
Take a tiny bit off the piston tops?????????
That is the old way of doing it - bit more work though
You don’t normally remove the water pump or p gasket when just doing the timing belt do you?
No - if you are doing the timing belt there is no need to touch the waterpump
Mike, are you going to run this on your test stand before dropping it in?
If I had time, then yes
Does anyone else know of any engine that has a under head camshaft with a timing belt???
I only found this channel because I use a 300tdi injector pump on my vw Tdi.
It puts out quite good fuel for an engine that is 1.9l
;p
🙏🙏
Hi MIke -Have you any idea what the torque setting is for the fan pulley bolts? cant find it anywhere.
8mm diameter bolts are usually 30nm
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike.
Could you fit the engine in the vehicle without the head and then fit that after, or do you get the head fitted to lift the engine? Just thinking about keeping things moving on.
For the fan bearing and pulley, I buy a Ford water pump, dismantle it, the bearing fits the 300 tdi cover and you get a proper steel flange as a bonus.
Interesting - what Ford water pump?
I could do but that means working on the head in the vehicle - prefer not as then I tie up my floor space
@@BritannicaRestorations
Ford EA EB ED XG Falcon NA NC Fairlane GMB Water Pump 6cyl *New* W1040
GMB1040 search on Ebay
Good afternoon Mike, After watching your videos I was able to rebuild my 300 tdi engine, and now I have to make the first start. Can you give me some tips to do it for the first time? I suppose I should turn the engine several times before starting it, for example removing the 4 injectors until it lubricates? I would be very grateful for your wise knowledge. Thank you very much.
yes crank it over to get the oil round first. I usually remove the glow plugs as they are easy to get at
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for your reply and your time Mike. Thats sounds good, I will do and hope everything will be good. Thanks!
Just doing one myself this afternoon!
@@BritannicaRestorations really ?? Please show us a little😍😍. Always nice to see your great work.
Половину слов не понятно, но очень интересно. С 200TDI сильно различается?
Очень похожий
97 inch pounds approx 11NM..
Wrong title on the thumbnail mate. 👍
HA! I uploaded the wrong thumbnail - well it was midnight!
You should also loosen the 3 bolts for the pump wheel for the 2nd retorquing of the belt...otherwise you cant get out the slack between the pump wheel and the camshaft wheel while the pump is fixed by the timing pin...
manual suggests to have the torque wrench in a vertical position too..
..