This is brilliant, I too have explored my 300 and love the conundrums present. Gotta say though - overall, most stuff is accessible without the mega stress. Great vid and very amusing.
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Hi Mike thanks for the update and sharing this video. 🤔 looking forward to part 2 👍👍👍
Hi Mike, another very instructive video!. Here, you say that (seeing the state of the rings) you consider change rings. Once a mechanic (I have to say that I didn't trust much in him...) told me that changing rings (in an old engine) without doing anything at crankshaft level it is not convenient, because there's going to be more compression in combustion chamber, but the crankshaft and it's bearings already have some wearing, so the new "power" in the "up side" will accelerate the wearing in the "down side". It make sense to me, but it is that so? Or it's just a matter of measure the wearing to see if it is under tolerances... (?). Thanks, Cheers!
Well in theory maybe, but it must be marginal, and besides when changing the rings you have to pull the rods so why not change the bearings at the same time?
Well, it was an advice that some mechanics here used to give to their customers in order to save money (but that was many years ago, with old american engines, and stuff like that), mainly because the machining of a crankshaft is very expensive around here. But the thing is: if the crankshaft is OK, and if you need to change rings, can you change at the same time the crankshaft bearings without machining the crankshaft? I can't see why not... Thanks for your comments and time!
Well my favorite lil grease moonkey ... squadron leader...that was truly amazingly fantastics ..kinda like gone with the the wind ...nay ..the searchers .. epic ..and no indians were harmed in the production ..😎😁pip pips and carryon
Great video and fantastic site. I’ve just had a crankshaft break on my 98 tdi300 at 145k miles .Not a good advert for a regularly serviced and carefully driven vehicle!! Now had a replacement fitted but was wondering whether to fit a boost pin to pep it up a bit. In your opinion would this be detrimental to the engine and increase wear and tear?My replacement has done 105k miles
My issue is: all four effing injectors are stuck in the head, turbo is beyond hope, most bolts missing and i got the crank with a chunk cut off. Might look for a other take out unit that is destroyed low in the engine so i can rob the missing bits and have a spare head. I might get a core unit for the turbo, then go from there.
You need a slide hammer to get the injectors out Crank - a good used one maybe Turbo - check on Alibaba for the centre cartridge - they are cheap and pretty good
Any afterthoughts on the 'grunge'? Incorrect thickness oil control rings, or insufficient crankcase ventilation, or poorly machined pistons? (I'm talking out my ass, all I know are petrol Chevy V8s.) Oh, why a bolt to hold the lifters? I've never seen that before. (See above comment!)
This is brilliant, I too have explored my 300 and love the conundrums present. Gotta say though - overall, most stuff is accessible without the mega stress. Great vid and very amusing.
Hi Mike thanks for the update and sharing this video. 🤔 looking forward to part 2 👍👍👍
Good timing Mike, My winter project is rebuilding a 300 TDI to replace the VM 2.5 in my RRC .
I will be doing more!
Mike
Brilliant Mike 😊 Well worth watching you as you’ve a very interesting way of explaining things 👍🏻
Thanks!
Mike
I have seen that gunge before, it was caused by carbon particles being forced into the oil through the turbo seal .
Two centuries from now, one of your descendants will be chief engineer on the Star Ship Enterprise.
Thank you so much Mike. I much appreciate your helpful guide and insight, should I get to this one day. All the best.
That's the idea - to build a library of common problems!
Thanks Mike - entertaining and educational! Really appreciating what you're doing. Seriously - thanks a lot!.
Thanks!
Mike
It looks like you are selling fertiliser as aside line Mike !! Lol. Good video as usual.
Thanks!
Mike
Hi Mike, another very instructive video!. Here, you say that (seeing the state of the rings) you consider change rings. Once a mechanic (I have to say that I didn't trust much in him...) told me that changing rings (in an old engine) without doing anything at crankshaft level it is not convenient, because there's going to be more compression in combustion chamber, but the crankshaft and it's bearings already have some wearing, so the new "power" in the "up side" will accelerate the wearing in the "down side". It make sense to me, but it is that so? Or it's just a matter of measure the wearing to see if it is under tolerances... (?). Thanks, Cheers!
Well in theory maybe, but it must be marginal, and besides when changing the rings you have to pull the rods so why not change the bearings at the same time?
Well, it was an advice that some mechanics here used to give to their customers in order to save money (but that was many years ago, with old american engines, and stuff like that), mainly because the machining of a crankshaft is very expensive around here. But the thing is: if the crankshaft is OK, and if you need to change rings, can you change at the same time the crankshaft bearings without machining the crankshaft? I can't see why not... Thanks for your comments and time!
Well my favorite lil grease moonkey ... squadron leader...that was truly amazingly fantastics ..kinda like gone with the the wind ...nay ..the searchers .. epic ..and no indians were harmed in the production ..😎😁pip pips and carryon
Thanks!
Thank you for your videos, great stuff!
Thank you!
Mike
Great video and fantastic site. I’ve just had a crankshaft break on my 98 tdi300 at 145k miles .Not a good advert for a regularly serviced and carefully driven vehicle!!
Now had a replacement fitted but was wondering whether to fit a boost pin to pep it up a bit.
In your opinion would this be detrimental to the engine and increase wear and tear?My replacement has done 105k miles
Unfortunately, I no longer give advice or do videos on tuning as I could be held responsible for damage.
My issue is: all four effing injectors are stuck in the head, turbo is beyond hope, most bolts missing and i got the crank with a chunk cut off. Might look for a other take out unit that is destroyed low in the engine so i can rob the missing bits and have a spare head. I might get a core unit for the turbo, then go from there.
You need a slide hammer to get the injectors out
Crank - a good used one maybe
Turbo - check on Alibaba for the centre cartridge - they are cheap and pretty good
very intersting in regards to what you said about the injector pump support bracket, could that cause a timing belt to go?
Indeed!
I now have the new part and will try and do a separate video on the matter
-also LR took the belt tension down from 15Nm to 11 Nm
Mike
Any afterthoughts on the 'grunge'? Incorrect thickness oil control rings, or insufficient crankcase ventilation, or poorly machined pistons? (I'm talking out my ass, all I know are petrol Chevy V8s.) Oh, why a bolt to hold the lifters? I've never seen that before. (See above comment!)
I have no idea for the gunge - I don't do regular services on customers cars - local shops do that - I just do the big repairs
Hi Mike, have you any pictures of a piston that's had it. Cheers
Nope - Tdi pistons are pretty good - but the TD/DT is another story == cracks right down the middle
Bad oil,bad quality oil or the engine is running to cold??
Gef