Build a Subwoofer Box with (almost) no tools.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
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screws
In this video we build a down for sound flat pack subwoofer box. Why? because you can build it with just a few basic tools that you probably already have on hand.
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Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
Music By creatormix.com
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In the amount of time I’ve spent just designing my subwoofer box, he’s built and posted videos of at least 3 of them. 😂
Same. I just finished constructing it last night after 3 weeks. Now I have to sand it down and get ready to paint it 😂
The struggle is real.
Comparison is the thief of joy the difference between you and this guy is he does this professionally and you are doing it for fun of course it’ll take a lot more time props to you for building your own most won’t go that far believe it or not .
That's the flat pack I made for my fifteen inch sub. I doubled the front added another layer inside to the front . Stained it a light blue. And epoxy poured in the diwn for sound logo on top. It looks bad ass sounds great it was a good buy.
I think an epoxy pour would be great.
Looked really shallow, did you have to sand alot off or thin your epoxy or?
That cup looks at least as good as the SMD ones I overpaid for! lol
I’m guilty too😢
Not to bad for a DIY box, only thing I would have liked is a piece for a double baffel
Yes.
I agree
@@DIYAudioGuyif you wanted to double baffle it wouldn’t it be as simple as cutting another mdf board the same size using the other as a template and cut out the sub holes the same way so they’ll match up uniform and then just glue the precut board on top of the one you just cut
•or vise versa for a blank box•
clamp and install? Or you just need longer screws since it’s an extra sheet of mdf that’s the only problem I’m seeing in my head. Is there anything I’m missing? I’m always happy to learn 🤟🏻
Edit: just read another comment and as they had said you could make the baffle big enough to seal the edges of the box to the top?
Sweet! This will be useful for those that have limited space/tools.
One quick tip. If it’s going to have a slot port, you want to stain it or paint it before assembly. Ask me how I know.. 😂
Definitely!
@@DIYAudioGuy True Nick, creating enclosures that can be assembled with VERY minimal tools is such a good idea! and your demo makes it look very 'doable' for nearly anyone!
For a quick diy box, it looks pretty good, and price isn't bad at all. However, the subwoofer baffle should have been mounted on the edges of the top, bottom, sides. That way it has more support on the back of the baffle and more thickness around the subwoofer cutout. If that makes sense.
Yes, that does make sense. That's the way I build my boxes. An enclosure like this is really more about easy assembly as opposed to optimum strength.
I'm surprised it doesn't have a double baffle considering the tuning and the power you want running into that sub.
Yes
I’ve been eye balling these flat packs all year and I’m totally sold on this d4s box. And Justin in my area as well the cost of wood alone is more than what they are asking for the 12” variant so it’s a no brainer I think I’m going to push the magic button 😅
I had the 12 flat pack with a skar evl paired very well together sounded good Had it on a jp23. Id get one again and for the price they’re not bad at all
Assembly Instructions:
Step 1: Assemble product.
Screw holes and dowels would be wonderful for the port wall, as just screw holes may still be difficult to line up and keep steady during assembly.
That looks like paint-grade birch, not stain-grade. Hand sanding can also contribute to splotchiness. Try a mineral spirit wipe prior to staining, it will reveal any problem areas that need more attention. :)
@@rhkips Thanks for the tip
Just did some Harley bag lids with these basic instructions. lol
I put that box together last summer. Not bad at all for the price. Some holes were misaligned and I had to drill a few they missed. But it wasn't a big deal.
Awesome.
Buy a cheap air spray gun from harbor frieght and shoot the stain on. You will get more uniform color. You can also spray the poly.
You will also need an air compressor which most don't have BUT can be bought at harbor freight for also great prices 😅😅
You I’ll also need an air hose which most people won’t have if they don’t own a compressor and can also be bought at Harbor Freight for a good price.
Excellent. I had a house fire and lots my tools and workspace. Been eyeing these.
Oh man, I hate to hear that.
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks. just one of those things that keep life interesting, i suppose. No one got injured even though it happened in the middle of the night so it could have been a lot worse
OH NO!!! IKEA HAS INVADED!!!!!! EVERYBODY RUN!!!!!!!!!!! I kid i kid.... Always enjoy your vids, thanks for sharing. Im honestly surprised not more audio companies have a DIY box building program for their line of subs that are tuned/built for their own products instead of the "just slap em in there and hope its close" prebuilds you find at big box brick n mortar stores.
I can't believe for such a big company like D4S that they didn't make the instructions better. Myself personally woulda packed it up and sent it back. Anyway aside from that, really nice video!
A nice option for those that do not have decent woodworking skills/space. I do suggest tossing those zinc plated wood screws in the trash though and using deck screws instead. IMO they have better threads, stronger shanks, are usually self countersinking, and are generally cheaper as well.
I usually go with deck screws but I couldn't find any in the size that I needed.
I was going to say its built for a lower power sub with no double baffle but looks good overall.
I have a Deaf Bonce Apocalypse DB-SA305 15. The D4S single 15 flat pack is almost exactly the specs the sub wants. I'm anxious to try it. Just gotta talk myself into spending the money, instead of building from scratch.
that will make u really happy, i had one of themm.. it a monzter..
I feel like I'd make some braces and a second face for a heavy duty sub. But it's a nice setup.
Buy the kit bro it will be worth it. Plus it can't be stated enough that having a box that is exactly what the manufacturer calls for is the best most important move of all. It is just magic when the box and sub match together
I'm in the process of building my first custom box. Would love to see a video that shows how many screws you need. This flat pack only has 3 per side but i feel that's not enough.
The screws merely align and bond panels until the glue sets. If you have enough clamps and patience, you can forego mechanical fasteners.
Yes.
I will put a minimum three per side, obviously longer sides need more screws. But as someone else had commented, the screws just hold things together until the glue sets.
Yup glue is what is going to hold it together best
The staining didnt come.out too bad. My only concern would be the smell sticking around.
5:07
Always pre drill screw holes with a bit the same size as the shank of the screw, the diameter minus the threads, or one size under.
The glue is doing the work, the screws just hold everything in the right place while it dries.
If the boards split like that and you want a nice sanded finish, that split can cause issues with the corner trying to stick up, then you'll be sanding through the plys or digging in to the mdf and making it harder to get a good finish
Sound Testing AND Measurements PLEASE !!!
Working on it, got something fun planned.
UNLEASH THE MAXX POWAAAAAAR
Who's going to tell him what the Candy represents 😮
Whats it mean
I hope it's not something that happens at a Diddy party.
It came out good and looks nice. Only other thing I see is its a single baffle but compared to other flat packs out there this one is indeed a bargain.
That's one of the problems with flat packs, shipping gets expensive so you have to cut corners to save weight.
@@DIYAudioGuy I have an RS entry v2 15” and a Kicker comp VX 15” that need boxes so just ordered one of these flat packs after looking around at other offerings and this is a good value so thanks for the video! I can always add some extra bracing or my own double baffle but cant really beat the price for what you get!
Hey DIY Audio Guy, could you do a video demonstrating the step by process (calculator / notepad version) of tuning a ported enclosure for a subwoofer?
Starting with the spec info of a subwoofer and demonstrating how to work the mathematical formula for it's tuning ranges.
Also, in a scenario where you have two identical subwoofers not sharing the same airspace inside the enclosure. Would one tuned to the higher range and the other tuned to the lower range provide a broader sound production that will be audibly impressive?
I've got several videos that cover your first question, as for your second question, mixing things up like that doesn't seem to work unless you do a lot of DSP work.
Circle work when rubbing stain with lint free rag thats folded in like holding a pc mouse, dont go lean, wipe access straight after.
👍
Good build video. They probably should have had someone that has designed and built a woofer box before design this one though. Glad to hear there are some upsides with the airspace and low tuning but for a monster subwoofer, it should have a double baffle. And the flush mount recess you would get is a nice touch. The amateur hour "instructions" are icing on the clown cake. In an effort to get companies to not sell this junk, it would be great if people didn't buy it. It's sad and borderline offensive how poorly thought out this box is.
Double woofer baffle against the edges of the top, bottom, and sides. Terminal cup with connections that don't protrude beyond the panel it's mounted in. Screw holes that don't interfere with each other or the woofer opening. Instructions instead of just a useless parts list. All necessary screw holes predrilled.
Also, on a plywood box, a slightly damp towel is great for taking the glue squeeze out off before you get it all over your self, work bench, and tools. Not such a good plan on MDF. A good and simple protective finish is wood glue, which can be mixed with dollar store acrylic paint for color. Test the mix with a small amount on a scrap piece as some don't mix great but sometimes it still looks good.
How much more would you be willing to pay for a flat pack with all those features?
I like a good squeeze out.
The spray on Poly works best for me. Hopefully you get a chance to do a full stain job on my system. It's definitely worth the work.
I will have to give the spray on stuff a try.
He's building a system for you ? Awesome 😎👍
That's still not a bad looking box sir.....
Thanks.
I liked the streaky stain
I hit it with some 600 grit sandpaper before I put the poly on it, that helped a little bit.
@@DIYAudioGuy It's nice man honestly, To me at least, if I got that look I'd be stoked 👌 The denim look
I bought one of those flat packs from d4s and they are garbage, weak soft wood and they flex and resonate
@@knighthawk8084 better than MDF at least? What sub was in it? Im considering one for a 1000 rms 15” and add bracing or my own double baffle.
I bought the single 12 flat pack and it was missing the baffle and was packed poorly. They knew it too because the receipt was put inside the box and taped up. It was a return from someone before they sent it to me. I can see the previous address through the magic marker with a shipping weight of 34 lbs and 31 lbs for mine. They made me go through route package protection for a refund when it was their fault. Then I had to go through my credit card company to get my money from route because they never refunded me. I ended up making my own baffle with a jig saw and a piece of birch I had. It looks like crap and sounds like crap. Like you said it resonates and is soft wood. I never had such a bad experience from any business like d4s. It's my first and last time I'll ever buy from them
Here's where my use of dowels or square stock comes into play.
3/4" 9 ply birch will flex and resonate between 8 to 12 inch intervals. To prevent this I've used 1" dowels to internally brace the inside panels, especially the long/wide sections (front to back). In this case, I would angle the dowels closer to the center of the rear panel as to not obstruct the motor of the sub, but still add support and bracing. One on either side of the sub (L and R of sub) and angled towards the center at 10-15° to the rear panel should be enough to brace it and reduce or even stop flex, and the dowel does nearly nothing to the internal volume.
Sundown sa v2 10 inch, 1.25 cubic feet box, I guess for the price you can't beat it, I paid a 100 bucks and free shipping, I buy the birch flat packs from gp car audio now
Could you place footers on it for home theater use?
Ever think of doing builds for home audio?
Maybe SQ style.
crossover with Toids???
Yes, you can
I'm a little confused about the corner "45" in the vent. Without cutting an equal amount off of the inner corner, wouldn't that restrict the opening of the vent by roughly 3/4"... turning a 3" vent into a 2-1/4" vent at that point? Probably not a HUGE deal, and I suspect the instructions spec'd it that way, but I think it might be better to leave that one out. Nice job on YOUR build though! Nice to see something that isn't MDF! Closing in on 100k subs! Go Justin!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 If you measure the distance across the corner, it's usually a bit more than the width of the port. Some kind of crazy Pythagorean theorem or something like that.
@@DIYAudioGuy You know, I just sketched it out on a scrap of paper, and you appear to be correct! It is just a bit more. I guess what may seem logical (to me at least) is sometimes incorrect!
Perforated driver surrounds........................... ?
The accordion webbing surround on my new, brand name, paper cone midrange & woofer is permeable. The holes are easily visible when a light is shone through the backside.
The manufacturers state that a sealed cabinet is good, if not best. Of course that pressurized air is moving all around the cone's perimeter. Do anyone acknowledge this in any of their info?
Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
Do they suggest a 1.25" long screw in the instructions or something?
@@jayinmi3706 I don't recall that they recommended any particular length.
When I was building enclosures for d4s I never used that type of plywood. That's the cheap stuff. I used Russian Baltic Birch only. We have a nice supply of it in Vegas... He should be flat packing the good stuff.
I'd like to get my hands on some of good stuff!
@@DIYAudioGuy I'm just saying the price per sheet is only around $20 more. I'm sure people wouldn't mind a $20 increase in the flat pack price
@DibeezyTheGifted have you tried to get larger sheets a birch ever since the ukraine-russian war started? Really difficult to find that stuff at a fair price with sactions against Russia
@@kylevanwinkle2081 I get it on a weekly basis. And prices have gone down. Before the war is was more expensive.
@@DibeezyTheGifted it's like 150 for a 5x5 sheet. You can't even get a 4x8 sheet.
Will this box be for the new Dayton Audio ultimax ll sub?
I've got something else cool planned!
@@DIYAudioGuy can’t wait to see what it is!!! I am getting two of the 12” Dayton audio Ultimax ll subs for a passive radiator enclosure setup. Let’s see how that plays
Large panels with no bracing. Panel resonance galore.
I design and build boxes for the driver. I don't build a box and then hope to find a driver that performs well with it.
I buy clamps at Harbor Freight. Cost a lot less, so I don't hesitate to buy plenty of them.
The harbor freight clamps are great. They are dirt cheap.
Yup.
I love mine has my windshield flexing 🤷🏼
🦾
One thing I found out about cheap terminal cups. If a magnet sticks to it. The signal/power path is degraded. Every connection you make effects the signal/power path. I kid you not that I got a whole DB louder. Just by drilling holes in my box and using a single wire. Straight from the subs, through the box, and to the amp. Without even using a terminal cup. Also 100% OFC wire makes a difference as well. That added another DB 🤯 MDF is actually better for sq as it offers better dampining. So what i do is use both. MDF on the inside and hdf on the outside. Basically build your box out of the mdf then add the layer of hdf on the outside. Only drawback is it uses a ton of glue lol Hope this helps someone on their next box build.
@@randomtube8226 I don't doubt you one bit .
If wires result in so many gains, either you had an air leak or the wires were WAY too undersized
Spreading information like a boss
Source : trust me bro
@@eustahijelifetips He's spreading misinformation*
👍
If ferous metals cause signal degradation I guess they better remove the magnets from the speakers, too, right? 🤪