Kudos to this guy. He gives concise yet simple enough explanations for normal people to understand the technicalities of the convoluted hi-fi world and presents it in a very entertaining manner.
Yeah but if your idea of an ideal subwoofer is one that booms the loudest and rattles the most nearby car windows at the stoplight, you definitely want a ported system.
My SEALED house speakers generate far more Vibrational bass, than my Ported speakers. The Port does not change make the speakers any more powerful. The Magnet strength, Coil strength, are what create the strongest potentials. The Subs shown here, are not for Car Audio. They are for home theatre, and possibly also to add depth to music. Unless you live in the middle of the country... you cant blast High Air Pressure Subs, in a typical apartment. Furthermore, Its Immoral, to blast Car Subs in the City. People live in the apartments above the storefronts... and it Ruins these peoples Sanity, and Lives. It also ends up dragging down property values... when the local Drug dealer parks their car, and keeps blasting their sub, at 3am. Keep pushing people like myself... and you will find out, just what can happen...
Been designing speakers for many years and speakers have changed a lot. Some are best in ported and some sealed according to the speakers parameters. Personally I will take properly designed ported sub over a sealed box. It's all in how much you spend and how good the box design is but really it's all about personal preference in he end.
How would you determine if a chassis ist best for sealed or ported? I've read that if fs/Qts is around 50, it's best for sealed while a value around 100 is best for ported. What do you think about that?
@@doemaeries This is called EBP and it's a good starting point but you can still make a high EBP driver work, the box size might just not be optimal. If you already have the driver you can make it work you just need to model it and see what you're in for. If you don't have the driver yet it would be best to buy the driver to fit the style of box you want to build.
I used to always automatically go for large ported subs. It seemed common sense they would dig deeper and be better for movies. This all changed when I was gifted a small little Martin Logan Dynamo 10" sealed sub. It utterly destroyed my SVS. It plays clean to the low 20s and also has really tight punchy bass. Best of both worlds and I've never owned a ported sub that did both of these things well. Was blown away by that little ML sub.
@@benboyer2776- design and quality components matter. That Martin Logan was probably much more expensive too. I went from a huge 400w sub to a REL (T2) 10” with passive radiator that was better at basically everything. Music and movies. It was more $$$ of course.
That's the most comprehensive explanation of the differences or ported and sealed I've seen, and easy to understand the pros and cons of each. Great video!
Thanks for this explanation! In building custom boxes for my truck I noticed when I added ports as I was meant to I lost clarity, this clearly tells me that what I want is a sealed box 👍
This is a really good video. Well done. You saved me from worrying and wasting time about something I don't need to worry about. Sealed sub in my car for me! Thanks!
This is not always true ive had both sealed and ported i promise you if you put a dual or single skar sdr 12 in your care you will be so much more happy than with sealed ive had and used both and I still have one bc it gets deeper sounds better and it still articulate and musical but loud you don't have to give it all 1200 watts if u dont want put it at the volume you like
In my personal opinion both sealed and ported are in the past but less ported than sealed because passive radiators are a perfect balance you get deeper and louder than sealed and just as small without having to worry about port noise
@@valorantorion1588 Car subs with passive radiators have had their niche for a long time but never really picked up. Why do you think that is the case? No, they're not the same size as sealed boxes and they have almost exactly the same problems as basreflex subs. The car audio market is dominated by basreflex subs because they're so efficient and people want to install as few extra batteries as possible. It's as simple as that. Maybe electric cars will change that.
Ported enclosures are far superior but the trade off is that they're way more expensive and need more space, specially if you want a well made box. But I ported enclosure will be way louder than a sealed enclosure and will be more efficient. If you like loud bass, 100% vented.
I've always preferred sealed. I also like just ten inch subs for the much tighter quick hard hitting bass they reproduce. Though in my huge roomy 85 GMC Suburban, just wide open no trunk, bass lacked in that wide open environment. The same amp/sealed box/speakers in my Ford Tarus was much more pronounced sitting in the trunk then in the Suburban. The type, how they are arranged, the box and the amp can really make a huge difference depending on the setting they are placed into trying to get the sound you are looking for.
Oddly enough, Ford used the trunk space in the Taurus to be a 'box' to help with bass. There were two 6x8 speakers in the rear shelf standard but there was also a spot for a 6x9 speaker that was meant to be used with the JBL systems that were optional on those cars. I didn't have the JBL system in my Taurus, just the MACH audio, but with some work I managed to add a line driver before the main MACH amp. The line driver had a subwoofer line out which I ran to a small (300 watt) sub amp and a 6x9 speaker I added in the rear shelf. I didn't have it loud but it added quite a bit of low end bump. Depending on what I was listening too the inside of the car would shake at a moderate volume. I miss that car and the system (I kept the components.) The factory Sony system in my Fiesta just can't compare.
A good sub of any size can produce punchy bass. I have three 21 inch subs in my theater that can reproduce anything from 15Hz to 200Hz with no problem. When you go to a concert and hear the quick drum bass it is from ported 15 or 18 inch subs, just for reference.
Interesting video!! Watching this, my mind went straight to those JBL speakers that use "passive radiators" to emmit their bass, but are essentially still sealed
it is similar like vented regarding the frequency characteristic. but there is no port noise and you maybe have a tiny bit more dampening which leads to more accuracy.
I honestly like ported subs. My mom has one and I just love the way the bass is so deep. I never liked the full, movie theater type of sound with low frequencies.
@@d3vi0uz1 Just Checked that out. Looks like some do, and some dont. It seems The sub frequencies from your speakers are mostly dependent on your environment.
You forgot to mention the fourth type of sub. The douchebag. The DB comments unnecessarily on videos that aren't discussing the subject they think it is.
"slot loaded" (not resonant tuned like altec and ATC ports), isobarik, transmission line, open baffle, and varovents exist too. the frequency response of passive radiators is more peaky
Good overview. I'm trying out a semi-hybrid design, the RSL SpeedWoofer 10S MKII. It has a non-traditional elongated front firing port (rather long & thin, not round) with extra internal baffling, that is supposed to permit better pressure and response like a sealed enclosure. Everyone I hear is raving about it for a sub
Ported for Home Theater. Sealed for music. POrted is going to give you that steady deep rumble when the jet liner goes across your screen. Sealed is going to give you that tighter, less boomy sound for music. I have 2 HSU VTF-2 MK5's used for 95% home theater.
Ported Is mainly made for and sold by musicians. A frequently purchased subwoofer is, for example, the Yamaha HS8S and JBL LSR310S. Then a ported turns out to be better 🤔
I have the Kanto Yumi set up with the Sub 8 and it sounds great the 8 sounds as good and goes lower than my mb quart 10 in. I do find it moves on me on a smooth surface. Great video
I put a capacitor and a small coil on the negative line. Slowing it down and therefore creating a lower frequency. In a small space enclosure ( under a car seat ) it gives the thump that you’re looking for.
I use a Veliodyne IMPACT-10 ported subwoofer and it's awesome. i prefer ported over sealed because not only does it provide louder bass output, it also provides cooling for the plate amp and the driver itself. In a sealed box, the heat generated from the amp has nowhere to go, and that could be a bad thing. I don't know how they manage to keep sealed subs from breaking due to overheating.
1. Class D 2. Plate itself is a cooler, some amps have heatsinks on the outside 3. There's a significant amount of air inside the box, in a lot of cases its capacity is more than enough to cool down what's needed
I t think it all depends on how much musical power (pressure) you need. All subwoofer at big concerts are always open. There is one trick for every speaker to make it sound lower and louder, put it on the hard floor. The way you explain everything is really good.
Great explanation..sealed all day for me..I like rock music with fast drumming beats..on that NOTE I prefer sealed for the tightness and accuracy.that tight punch is always better than the boom.. When beats get too fast alotta ported subs tend to flutter almost like there not keeping up...but your not gonna beat ported for movies! On movies when you get an explosion or something of the sort ported is the way to go..
I built by own box and designed my own port for a sub to go in my 96 civic in high school. I paired it with a cheap pioneer amp and woofer. tried to set it all up to roll off pretty heavily around 40 hz. I thought that would protect the speaker. I was the designated driver to a party one night. my friends were all pretty excited to hear the system I put together. non of us cared to much about sound quality at the time. we cranked the volume and destroyed the sub. I learned the hard way that if you are using a ported box you need to quality sub that won't rip itself apart easily. I never did replace that speaker.
I invented a sub based on the transmission line design and registered it with the AIPO. Australian Intellectual Property office. I'd worked in HiFi shops and wanted to make a better sub than was available commercially at the time. I succeeded. I tested Ported designs and settled on a sealed design. Chalk and Cheese. Sealed subs are tight and fast as this video attests. Kudos Kanto!
Once I opened a subwoofer that it had a ported vent, BUT INSIDE THERE WAS ANOTHER chamber with a SEALED SUBWOOFER. Dayum that design sounded FINE! super precise bass! How doyou call this double chamber design?
Nice really good presentation. The ported subs are really nice for movies and the new Yamaha twisted port subs are really good with interesting design features like the square cross section driver wires. I think they have done a pretty good job.
Very good explanation! My personal favourite is sealed with dsp boost for extended range. Then you are almost as deep as ported with none of the negatives! Really got to watch for going past the excursion maximums though!
@@kotim1142 sealed is and always will be better for sound quality. No phase reflections like with a ported. Very minimal difference to the ear but it is there.
@@aktionp20 it is full crap not good much worse little brat A closed subwoofer heats up more than a ported subwoofer because it has an air hole It's an old technique and invention, Technology is moving forward and developing better Owl head Yes I know
A passive radiator essentially mimics the effect of a port so would have the same advantages/disadvantages musically. However, the passive radiator makes it MUCH easier to tune the box (change sizes, change weights, etc) without having to build a port. It eliminates chuffing as well.
What is the best setup for a truck? I want hard hitting bass but I also really love boomy sound. I had a JL W7 in my Tahoe and I loved it. I now have a 2022 gmc Sierra AT4X and there isn’t that much room I can fit under the back seats so should I go sealed or ported?
There's a saying with subs... they can be good, small, or cheap - pick two. Since you want good bass in a small space you'll have to spend more on a powerful amplifier and a sub that can handle high wattage. For you're application you'll want a shallow mount sub in a sealed box to save on space. I heard good things about Sundown to I modeled their SD-4 10″ D2 in WinISD and you can get down to 40 Hz at -3 dB in a 1 cuft box which is pretty great - if you have the ability to increase box size you'll get louder bass in the lower frequencies.
@@KantoSolutions Yeah I gotcha. I really wish there was a way I could put 2 12” JL W7’s in that truck. That’s my favorite subwoofer ever I had one in my Escalade.
I was looking for a new small form factor subwoofer for my system. I spent hours on Amazon and had no idea what I needed or what brand to choose. Then I found this video. Your presentation and easy to understand explanation was fantastic. It has inspired me to buy the Kanto Sub 8, which I just bought on Amazon. Thank you!
not exactly... passive radiators have uneven frequency responses. If you want more QUANTITY out of sealed... just add more power + EQ or drivers. I DESPISE boomy flabby bass. The first time bass wowed me was infinity 4 1/2" 2 ways! the bass was soooo tight and fast, if not chest thumping. I'll take quality every time
Good explanation , sealed subs have always had musicality on their side . They are able to recreate the lower registers of the musical spectrum. A ported sub is good for bang bang -- boom boom , personally I would much rather have lower musical notes that just a bang and a boom !!
The one thing you're not talking about is room gain. Something you don't get from ported enclosures nearly as much as sealed. When room gain is taken into account, sealed boxes extend very low and are cleaaaaan.
Summs it up. Building a sealed speaker has the advantage that you can quite precisely create your desired "Sound-Design" by the inside Volume (Qtc) of your housing. For a good vented speaker your driver probably will be more expensive then the driver matching a sealed Box design. If you want low bass range for a small driver you have to go for the ported speaker. If you want low bass range in a sealed subwoofer the housing easy gets huge. For people who don't really car much about sound a cheap 2.1 system with a vented sub will just do fine. I got one of these, was under 30$ and for that money it can't get much better. On the other hand, you can buy high prized speakers that are crap. It's mostly just about marketing. A good speaker system is one, that you can enjoy listenimg too all day long, without getting nuts.
The benefits are it is capable of lower frequencies and produce more sound with less power although less accurate. Typically if you listen to mostly rap music and or dubstep you may want ported. If you listen to a variety of music types or mainly drums sealed is the choice. IMO
Below the tuning frequency, ported sub driver has enormous excursion as you go down. Sealed on the other hand has limited low excursion even below tuning frequencies. One more advantage of sealed is that the woofer membrane remains rigid compared to vented because the pressure difference in case of sealed across the woofer stays high at extremities as compared to the woofer in vented.
Thank you for the very nice explanations with examples,chuffing was excelent one and the guy talking to you that we don t see,is too mush fun to hear 😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉
@@melovemusic69 actually ported go too long with low frequencies... Watching movies with heavy subs distort other vocals.. Especially watching war scenes.. When it is music... Low frequencies add magic..
Spot on description. Sealed subwoofers are preferable for music; they sound more controlled/more responsive and precise compared to ported, that might be better for surround sound. Many small ported wall speakers should have their ports blinded with foam or other materials to make them more tight and better sounding. Especially if placed right agains the wall. Deep bass is not everything 😉
Recently i bought epos els sealed 10 inch sub...it changed completely my home theater experience ..wow...amazing..it gives immersive experience through out the whole movie
crossover point is dependent on your speakers. You want to set your crossover point at the frequency of which your speakers start to drop off in bass response. For full size bookshelf speakers, 80 Hz is a good starting point.
Would you recommend getting an external sub over a 3 or 4 way speaker like the Fluid Audio Image 2 or EVE Audio SC4070? I want to extend the low end in my studio.
Nice graph you got there. Too bad there's no labelling on either axis. So the difference happens in the 0-10Hk where only elephants care? Or is that different regime 0-120Hz and we're looking at a genuine marvel of seismic magnitude? Who knows? Not us, that's for sure.
Unless a manufacturer explicitly states that you can block a port, then it is not safe to do. Most ported subs that can be blocked also have a switch to change the sub's tuning.
Works different in car audio. All kinds of figures to put in the equation. Cabin size , power supply, wire size, driver parameters, location . I have a 4 door pick up and the only place to fit an enclosure was under the seat. Your backwards on the frequency you get with a sealed box. For lower resonate frequencies a sealed box has to have more air space. A ported box can reach lower frequencies in a smaller enclosure . Trick is to make the port proportional to the available air space and get the dimensions as close as you can to the recommendations of the specific driver's manufacturer. On mine it was real tricky. I had to make a fiberglass base for the subs I needed for the results I wanted. Port was made to spec with dual taper to increase sound compression , multiple chambers for a variety of frequencies. Of course the box was made specifically for the drivers I used.
I own a Genelec subwoofer with Laminar Spiral Enclosure bass reflex cabinet. It provides excellent laminar flow characteristics with minimal turbulence noise and allows for a long reflex tube into a small space. It sounds amazing, no chuffing, and is perfectly clear no matter how loud.
There are ported outdoor subs! Usually they are bottom firing or have a mushroom shaped shield over the port to prevent rain from entering the cabinet.
eh.. sealed oxes have max cone movment at fb. ported ones have the least. ports chuffing is not an issue. port pipe resonance is. may or may not choose a sealed my self, both have some good points. if i want a small sub... isobaric is allways my friend.
It's aways a matter how they are tuned and designed. With port noise it's off course a matter of size and how each side is rounded off. I build my own speakers and Experiment a lot. If the port tuning is very low (in my case my sub is tuned to 15hz) The group delay caused by being ported is much lower to the point that one can only seperate the sound of it from a sealed sub because it goes lower. IF using the same driver! That being said. Driver choice is a HUGE factor in this! I just built some Bookshelf speakers with a Punktkilde AUGWL0016-JN03 woofer in a about 17liter ported box tuned to 40hz. I expected the group delay caused by the higher port tuning to ruin bass clarity but it didn't. It's actualy the best sounding bass i have heard so far. The next most authentic sounding thing was a PA subwoofer on a concert. So it's always a matter of the sound engineers choices when building a speaker.
I was a hater for sealed subs until I sealed a 4 inch soundbar subwoofer Lol😂, before seal (poor port design) 72 Hz Fs, After Seal response down to 44 Hz! Soothing bass
So question. Would there be a benifit to a box that is split? Meaning one side using ported and one enclosed. Would you get the best of both worlds? Obviously you would need more room.
I have almost this setup in my vehicle, I have one box ported to specs, and one box sealed to specs (same model sub). You do kind of get the best of both worlds, but it is more of a middle ground. I get more low end with one of them ported, but not as low if I had two ported. And, I get better response and punchiness with one sealed, but not as good if I had two sealed.. So a middle ground.
Kudos to this guy. He gives concise yet simple enough explanations for normal people to understand the technicalities of the convoluted hi-fi world and presents it in a very entertaining manner.
9 out of 10 submariners prefer sealed subs 😉
because the last 1 cannot pick any preference from the crushing depth of the ocean...
Blahhhhaaaaahaaa!!! Good one!
Underrated!
Yeah but if your idea of an ideal subwoofer is one that booms the loudest and rattles the most nearby car windows at the stoplight, you definitely want a ported system.
I wanna be able to hear it and feel it
imo i want a clean sound that doesnt rattle but you can still hear it
I want that rattling
Nope an open BaffLED using the Trunk (if there is one) will do more damage...
My SEALED house speakers generate far more Vibrational bass, than my Ported speakers. The Port does not change make the speakers any more powerful. The Magnet strength, Coil strength, are what create the strongest potentials.
The Subs shown here, are not for Car Audio. They are for home theatre, and possibly also to add depth to music. Unless you live in the middle of the country... you cant blast High Air Pressure Subs, in a typical apartment.
Furthermore, Its Immoral, to blast Car Subs in the City. People live in the apartments above the storefronts... and it Ruins these peoples Sanity, and Lives. It also ends up dragging down property values... when the local Drug dealer parks their car, and keeps blasting their sub, at 3am.
Keep pushing people like myself... and you will find out, just what can happen...
Been designing speakers for many years and speakers have changed a lot. Some are best in ported and some sealed according to the speakers parameters. Personally I will take properly designed ported sub over a sealed box. It's all in how much you spend and how good the box design is but really it's all about personal preference in he end.
Yep that what he said, well designed engineered ported box will sound same if not better than sealed
How would you determine if a chassis ist best for sealed or ported? I've read that if fs/Qts is around 50, it's best for sealed while a value around 100 is best for ported. What do you think about that?
@@doemaeries This is called EBP and it's a good starting point but you can still make a high EBP driver work, the box size might just not be optimal. If you already have the driver you can make it work you just need to model it and see what you're in for. If you don't have the driver yet it would be best to buy the driver to fit the style of box you want to build.
@@algniazdo 100%
Until you get to extreme high end and then only sealed make sense
I used to always automatically go for large ported subs. It seemed common sense they would dig deeper and be better for movies. This all changed when I was gifted a small little Martin Logan Dynamo 10" sealed sub. It utterly destroyed my SVS. It plays clean to the low 20s and also has really tight punchy bass. Best of both worlds and I've never owned a ported sub that did both of these things well. Was blown away by that little ML sub.
Which svs...? Ultra 16?
@@Stan_the_Belgian no way possible it was a 16 ultra. The 16 ultra would lay waste to that Martin Logan 10…
@@benboyer2776 agreed but he's talking about a large ported svs...
@@Stan_the_Belgian maybe pb1000😂
@@benboyer2776- design and quality components matter. That Martin Logan was probably much more expensive too. I went from a huge 400w sub to a REL (T2) 10” with passive radiator that was better at basically everything. Music and movies. It was more $$$ of course.
That's the most comprehensive explanation of the differences or ported and sealed I've seen, and easy to understand the pros and cons of each. Great video!
Thanks for this explanation! In building custom boxes for my truck I noticed when I added ports as I was meant to I lost clarity, this clearly tells me that what I want is a sealed box 👍
I always used sealed boxes, my last had 2 JL w3s nice and clean. Miss them.
Are you sure those ports were properly engineered? Probably not.
This is a really good video. Well done. You saved me from worrying and wasting time about something I don't need to worry about. Sealed sub in my car for me! Thanks!
This is not always true ive had both sealed and ported i promise you if you put a dual or single skar sdr 12 in your care you will be so much more happy than with sealed ive had and used both and I still have one bc it gets deeper sounds better and it still articulate and musical but loud you don't have to give it all 1200 watts if u dont want put it at the volume you like
In my personal opinion both sealed and ported are in the past but less ported than sealed because passive radiators are a perfect balance you get deeper and louder than sealed and just as small without having to worry about port noise
@@valorantorion1588 Car subs with passive radiators have had their niche for a long time but never really picked up. Why do you think that is the case?
No, they're not the same size as sealed boxes and they have almost exactly the same problems as basreflex subs. The car audio market is dominated by basreflex subs because they're so efficient and people want to install as few extra batteries as possible. It's as simple as that. Maybe electric cars will change that.
Ported enclosures are far superior but the trade off is that they're way more expensive and need more space, specially if you want a well made box. But I ported enclosure will be way louder than a sealed enclosure and will be more efficient. If you like loud bass, 100% vented.
@@valorantorion1588 0
I've always preferred sealed. I also like just ten inch subs for the much tighter quick hard hitting bass they reproduce. Though in my huge roomy 85 GMC Suburban, just wide open no trunk, bass lacked in that wide open environment. The same amp/sealed box/speakers in my Ford Tarus was much more pronounced sitting in the trunk then in the Suburban. The type, how they are arranged, the box and the amp can really make a huge difference depending on the setting they are placed into trying to get the sound you are looking for.
Oddly enough, Ford used the trunk space in the Taurus to be a 'box' to help with bass. There were two 6x8 speakers in the rear shelf standard but there was also a spot for a 6x9 speaker that was meant to be used with the JBL systems that were optional on those cars. I didn't have the JBL system in my Taurus, just the MACH audio, but with some work I managed to add a line driver before the main MACH amp. The line driver had a subwoofer line out which I ran to a small (300 watt) sub amp and a 6x9 speaker I added in the rear shelf. I didn't have it loud but it added quite a bit of low end bump. Depending on what I was listening too the inside of the car would shake at a moderate volume. I miss that car and the system (I kept the components.) The factory Sony system in my Fiesta just can't compare.
A good sub of any size can produce punchy bass. I have three 21 inch subs in my theater that can reproduce anything from 15Hz to 200Hz with no problem. When you go to a concert and hear the quick drum bass it is from ported 15 or 18 inch subs, just for reference.
Maybe just need to add another 10 inch subwoofer to get extra SPL keeping that tight accurate bass.
Interesting video!! Watching this, my mind went straight to those JBL speakers that use "passive radiators" to emmit their bass, but are essentially still sealed
it is similar like vented regarding the frequency characteristic. but there is no port noise and you maybe have a tiny bit more dampening which leads to more accuracy.
SPL car audio & HT: Ported, SQ car audio & high end home audio: Closed.
Great explanation there sir!
I honestly like ported subs. My mom has one and I just love the way the bass is so deep. I never liked the full, movie theater type of sound with low frequencies.
You’re def not the only one
Funny enough, movie theaters use ported subs.
@@d3vi0uz1 Just Checked that out. Looks like some do, and some dont. It seems The sub frequencies from your speakers are mostly dependent on your environment.
Just ordered my Sub8, to pair with my YU2s. Gets here on Monday, too excited!
You forgot to mention the third sub, a combination of closed and ported: passive radiator
I was thinking the same. Like the old Kenwood ported sealed box I used to have.
You forgot to mention the fourth type of sub. The douchebag. The DB comments unnecessarily on videos that aren't discussing the subject they think it is.
It behaves like a ported sub with a steeper rollof
It's not a combination, the port is replaced with a pr
"slot loaded" (not resonant tuned like altec and ATC ports), isobarik, transmission line, open baffle, and varovents exist too. the frequency response of passive radiators is more peaky
Good overview. I'm trying out a semi-hybrid design, the RSL SpeedWoofer 10S MKII. It has a non-traditional elongated front firing port (rather long & thin, not round) with extra internal baffling, that is supposed to permit better pressure and response like a sealed enclosure. Everyone I hear is raving about it for a sub
very good explanation.
i like a sealed dual subwoofer architecture where the chassis are opposing each other.
Ported for Home Theater. Sealed for music. POrted is going to give you that steady deep rumble when the jet liner goes across your screen. Sealed is going to give you that tighter, less boomy sound for music. I have 2 HSU VTF-2 MK5's used for 95% home theater.
Ported Is mainly made for and sold by musicians. A frequently purchased subwoofer is, for example, the Yamaha HS8S and JBL LSR310S. Then a ported turns out to be better 🤔
I made my own 15” 600w PA sub with a wave guide that I built in it
The port has a 4inches in height and 16,5 inches in length
It’s hits hard!
There's a third design too-subs with passive radiators, I own two of them
I have the Kanto Yumi set up with the Sub 8 and it sounds great the 8 sounds as good and goes lower than my mb quart 10 in. I do find it moves on me on a smooth surface. Great video
Put some rubber washing machine pucks under them and your sub won't move again;)
Thank you Jason, finally a clear explanation on subs. Well done!!
First time since my studies someone brought up the Helmholtzresonator without mentioning the name or formula. Gr8 video.
I put a capacitor and a small coil on the negative line. Slowing it down and therefore creating a lower frequency. In a small space enclosure ( under a car seat ) it gives the thump that you’re looking for.
Great video, just one question....more companies are using passive radiators instead of ports. What are the pros & cons of these ?
great video!
Very interesting and easy to understand, I found all the answers I was looking for.
This guy is great!
We'll let him know 😄
@@KantoSolutions What's the best subwoofer to get with my Kanto TUK's?
Subwoofer sealed is better to Bass sound. For drum sound is better subwoofer ported 🔊👍
I use a Veliodyne IMPACT-10 ported subwoofer and it's awesome. i prefer ported over sealed because not only does it provide louder bass output, it also provides cooling for the plate amp and the driver itself. In a sealed box, the heat generated from the amp has nowhere to go, and that could be a bad thing. I don't know how they manage to keep sealed subs from breaking due to overheating.
Put a bottle of ice water near the port to chill it out. It will thank you...
1. Class D
2. Plate itself is a cooler, some amps have heatsinks on the outside
3. There's a significant amount of air inside the box, in a lot of cases its capacity is more than enough to cool down what's needed
they manage tho
with a modern class D amp the cooling is not a problem at all.
I t think it all depends on how much musical power (pressure) you need. All subwoofer at big concerts are always open. There is one trick for every speaker to make it sound lower and louder, put it on the hard floor. The way you explain everything is really good.
means down firing
Great explanation..sealed all day for me..I like rock music with fast drumming beats..on that NOTE I prefer sealed for the tightness and accuracy.that tight punch is always better than the boom.. When beats get too fast alotta ported subs tend to flutter almost like there not keeping up...but your not gonna beat ported for movies! On movies when you get an explosion or something of the sort ported is the way to go..
I built by own box and designed my own port for a sub to go in my 96 civic in high school. I paired it with a cheap pioneer amp and woofer. tried to set it all up to roll off pretty heavily around 40 hz. I thought that would protect the speaker. I was the designated driver to a party one night. my friends were all pretty excited to hear the system I put together. non of us cared to much about sound quality at the time. we cranked the volume and destroyed the sub. I learned the hard way that if you are using a ported box you need to quality sub that won't rip itself apart easily. I never did replace that speaker.
Frequency below tuning will damage the speaker.
You ported it too high
I invented a sub based on the transmission line design and registered it with the AIPO. Australian Intellectual Property office.
I'd worked in HiFi shops and wanted to make a better sub than was available commercially at the time. I succeeded. I tested Ported designs and settled on a sealed design. Chalk and Cheese. Sealed subs are tight and fast as this video attests. Kudos Kanto!
Once I opened a subwoofer that it had a ported vent, BUT INSIDE THERE WAS ANOTHER chamber with a SEALED SUBWOOFER. Dayum that design sounded FINE! super precise bass!
How doyou call this double chamber design?
Nice really good presentation. The ported subs are really nice for movies and the new Yamaha twisted port subs are really good with interesting design features like the square cross section driver wires. I think they have done a pretty good job.
Very good explanation! My personal favourite is sealed with dsp boost for extended range. Then you are almost as deep as ported with none of the negatives! Really got to watch for going past the excursion maximums though!
Equalization does not magically make the negative go away. Ported subs go lower, louder, more efficiently.
@@dizzywow yes, but the sealed enclosure can now go deeper with the dsp. You are correct on the efficiency though. You definitely sacrifice volume.
@@aktionp20 Closed subwoofer is old crap crap ass technology is developing that is not done anymore
@@kotim1142 sealed is and always will be better for sound quality. No phase reflections like with a ported. Very minimal difference to the ear but it is there.
@@aktionp20 it is full crap not good much worse little brat A closed subwoofer heats up more than a ported subwoofer because it has an air hole It's an old technique and invention, Technology is moving forward and developing better Owl head Yes I know
What about passive rads on sealed subs?
This was my question to.
Got REL. Curious too.
Passive radiators replace the air vent...
So how would you compare the sealed subwoofer to one that has a passive radiator?
that's what I thought of
A passive radiator essentially mimics the effect of a port so would have the same advantages/disadvantages musically. However, the passive radiator makes it MUCH easier to tune the box (change sizes, change weights, etc) without having to build a port. It eliminates chuffing as well.
What is the best setup for a truck? I want hard hitting bass but I also really love boomy sound. I had a JL W7 in my Tahoe and I loved it. I now have a 2022 gmc Sierra AT4X and there isn’t that much room I can fit under the back seats so should I go sealed or ported?
There's a saying with subs... they can be good, small, or cheap - pick two. Since you want good bass in a small space you'll have to spend more on a powerful amplifier and a sub that can handle high wattage. For you're application you'll want a shallow mount sub in a sealed box to save on space. I heard good things about Sundown to I modeled their SD-4 10″ D2 in WinISD and you can get down to 40 Hz at -3 dB in a 1 cuft box which is pretty great - if you have the ability to increase box size you'll get louder bass in the lower frequencies.
@@KantoSolutions Yeah I gotcha. I really wish there was a way I could put 2 12” JL W7’s in that truck. That’s my favorite subwoofer ever I had one in my Escalade.
I was looking for a new small form factor subwoofer for my system. I spent hours on Amazon and had no idea what I needed or what brand to choose. Then I found this video. Your presentation and easy to understand explanation was fantastic. It has inspired me to buy the Kanto Sub 8, which I just bought on Amazon. Thank you!
That's awesome, hope you enjoy it!
How you felt about the crossover, do you still hear vocal in the sub?
You are very connected to your expertise with comprehensive understanding that's very enjoyable to learn from.
kickdrum--->sealed, for everything else ported, it all comes down to the kind of music you hear
i put the sealed 8 inch Kanto sub with a pair of Kanto Tuks hooked to my PC....WOW i love them
I'm using Polk hts 10..it's amazing 😍
Two words. Passive radiator. Best of both worlds. Put one in there and I might buy one.
That is my experience as well, when testing subs the REL with a passive driver sounded the tightest and is roughly the size of the Kanto :)
@@jedics1i cant stand port chuff. Thats the worst part of porting.
not exactly... passive radiators have uneven frequency responses. If you want more QUANTITY out of sealed... just add more power + EQ or drivers. I DESPISE boomy flabby bass. The first time bass wowed me was infinity 4 1/2" 2 ways! the bass was soooo tight and fast, if not chest thumping. I'll take quality every time
you are very good at this. Kudos.
...and this is why I love the classic Large Advents speakers. Back in the day your 2.0 system was really a 2.2.
Good explanation , sealed subs have always had musicality on their side . They are able to recreate the lower registers of the musical spectrum. A ported sub is good for bang bang -- boom boom , personally I would much rather have lower musical notes that just a bang and a boom !!
And the boom from a sealed sub is usually still exciting and impactful (vs not having a subwoofer)
What subwoofer would you recommend someone to buy between Kenwood, Pioneer, Mobile Authority and Sony xplod
Best explanation of port noise I’ve seen. Many thanks!
The one thing you're not talking about is room gain. Something you don't get from ported enclosures nearly as much as sealed. When room gain is taken into account, sealed boxes extend very low and are cleaaaaan.
Summs it up. Building a sealed speaker has the advantage that you can quite precisely create your desired "Sound-Design" by the inside Volume (Qtc) of your housing. For a good vented speaker your driver probably will be more expensive then the driver matching a sealed Box design. If you want low bass range for a small driver you have to go for the ported speaker. If you want low bass range in a sealed subwoofer the housing easy gets huge. For people who don't really car much about sound a cheap 2.1 system with a vented sub will just do fine. I got one of these, was under 30$ and for that money it can't get much better. On the other hand, you can buy high prized speakers that are crap. It's mostly just about marketing. A good speaker system is one, that you can enjoy listenimg too all day long, without getting nuts.
Maybe I missed it but did you mention the benefits to ported subs? Surely there are pros and cons to each, so what are the pros?
The benefits are it is capable of lower frequencies and produce more sound with less power although less accurate. Typically if you listen to mostly rap music and or dubstep you may want ported. If you listen to a variety of music types or mainly drums sealed is the choice. IMO
@@SSMan-jo6tf problem with sealed is you need a lot of power. A 800w 12" ported sub easily outpaces my 13" 1000w sub.
Both have pros and cons.
@@SSMan-jo6tf It also depends on your primary use for the sub such as listening to music vs watching movies on your home theater.
Below the tuning frequency, ported sub driver has enormous excursion as you go down. Sealed on the other hand has limited low excursion even below tuning frequencies.
One more advantage of sealed is that the woofer membrane remains rigid compared to vented because the pressure difference in case of sealed across the woofer stays high at extremities as compared to the woofer in vented.
Thank you for the very nice explanations with examples,chuffing was excelent one and the guy talking to you that we don t see,is too mush fun to hear 😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉
I have a ported and a sealed in my bedroom, perfect combination.
Hip hop ,house ported all day had to send back ma 12 inch sead vs ported 10
According to me sealed are good for home theatres and ported for music... What's your view..
You have it reversed according to experts. Sealed reacts better (quick)and more accurate for music..
@@melovemusic69 actually ported go too long with low frequencies... Watching movies with heavy subs distort other vocals.. Especially watching war scenes.. When it is music... Low frequencies add magic..
No port is better fore movie seald is more true 2 its sors
Really easy to understand every details, thanks so much...
What about subs with a passive radiator?? Is that essentially a port with a flex covering?
Spot on description. Sealed subwoofers are preferable for music; they sound more controlled/more responsive and precise compared to ported, that might be better for surround sound. Many small ported wall speakers should have their ports blinded with foam or other materials to make them more tight and better sounding. Especially if placed right agains the wall. Deep bass is not everything 😉
Great explanation. I learned a lot with this video. Thank you
Recently i bought epos els sealed 10 inch sub...it changed completely my home theater experience ..wow...amazing..it gives immersive experience through out the whole movie
I prefer large sealed subs. Feels like you can get the best of both worlds. When I can dig deep and loud without port noise it’s a win
Incredible video. Thanks for the laugh AND the information!!!
I have a polk audio psw 10. At what range should the low pass filter should be kept to get a good balanced performance?
crossover point is dependent on your speakers. You want to set your crossover point at the frequency of which your speakers start to drop off in bass response. For full size bookshelf speakers, 80 Hz is a good starting point.
@@KantoSolutions I want to know regarding the value of low pass filter at the back of the psw 10 subwoofer!
Very good demo. Make me want to try out. Maybe seal sub qith passive tranducer can be best of both worlds.
What is the difference between the 2022 updated Sub 8 and the older version?
More power and vinyl finish on newer versions
Would you recommend getting an external sub over a 3 or 4 way speaker like the Fluid Audio Image 2 or EVE Audio SC4070? I want to extend the low end in my studio.
what about the bandpass enclosures? or passive radiators? 0 quality? or they are even good in some way?
Nice graph you got there. Too bad there's no labelling on either axis. So the difference happens in the 0-10Hk where only elephants care? Or is that different regime 0-120Hz and we're looking at a genuine marvel of seismic magnitude? Who knows? Not us, that's for sure.
whats best way to seal,,, ported sub... what to put under its feet so house dont crash down from structural vibe
Can we cover the port of the ported sub to check the performance? Is it safe to do it?
Unless a manufacturer explicitly states that you can block a port, then it is not safe to do. Most ported subs that can be blocked also have a switch to change the sub's tuning.
What about Subs with passive radiators?
Works different in car audio. All kinds of figures to put in the equation. Cabin size , power supply, wire size, driver parameters, location . I have a 4 door pick up and the only place to fit an enclosure was under the seat. Your backwards on the frequency you get with a sealed box. For lower resonate frequencies a sealed box has to have more air space. A ported box can reach lower frequencies in a smaller enclosure . Trick is to make the port proportional to the available air space and get the dimensions as close as you can to the recommendations of the specific driver's manufacturer. On mine it was real tricky. I had to make a fiberglass base for the subs I needed for the results I wanted. Port was made to spec with dual taper to increase sound compression , multiple chambers for a variety of frequencies. Of course the box was made specifically for the drivers I used.
I own a Genelec subwoofer with Laminar Spiral Enclosure bass reflex cabinet. It provides excellent laminar flow characteristics with minimal turbulence noise and allows for a long reflex tube into a small space. It sounds amazing, no chuffing, and is perfectly clear no matter how loud.
I have one as well, and it has a crossover to limit the bass going to my Genelec mains. Sounds great.
Yes, but what about transmission line subwoofers , complexity aside ?
Nice video,i have a question,can you close a port?Sorry for mine bad english,i am dutch.
I want much smaller/shallower sub with passive radiator. And it will not ruin the speaker cone and rubber edge in most longer strokes.
Great informative video.
I have a Bowers and Wilkins sealed type and it is superior my ported Pioneer one which itself is very good.
how does air inside the sealed sub affects the speaker membrane etc. at more volume, when you want it loud... ?
What about sealed with a passive diaphragm?
I need product breakdowns for all Kanto products from this guy.
Does that mean we have to choose sealed type for indoors?
There are ported outdoor subs! Usually they are bottom firing or have a mushroom shaped shield over the port to prevent rain from entering the cabinet.
eh.. sealed oxes have max cone movment at fb. ported ones have the least. ports chuffing is not an issue. port pipe resonance is. may or may not choose a sealed my self, both have some good points. if i want a small sub... isobaric is allways my friend.
So is Kanto subwoofer cheaper than quality ported one?
It's aways a matter how they are tuned and designed.
With port noise it's off course a matter of size and how each side is rounded off.
I build my own speakers and Experiment a lot. If the port tuning is very low (in my case my sub is tuned to 15hz) The group delay caused by being ported is much lower to the point that one can only seperate the sound of it from a sealed sub because it goes lower. IF using the same driver! That being said. Driver choice is a HUGE factor in this!
I just built some Bookshelf speakers with a Punktkilde AUGWL0016-JN03 woofer in a about 17liter ported box tuned to 40hz. I expected the group delay caused by the higher port tuning to ruin bass clarity but it didn't. It's actualy the best sounding bass i have heard so far. The next most authentic sounding thing was a PA subwoofer on a concert.
So it's always a matter of the sound engineers choices when building a speaker.
My choice of drivers is Vifa.
@@marcelmolenaar5684 They make very good and affordable drivers!
Very nicely explained.
Much appreciated 👍🏻
What if you have a ported design with a bigger box and a powerful amplifier?
But, the depth of bass from a sealed sub is deeper, I love it
No, it's not.
I think you missed the whole video
Whats the brand name for that white sealed subwoofer
can we close the port by stuffing it with some styrofoam like material, will it perform like sealed?
yeah. get some huge cork plugs and try.
I stuffed my cheap Logitech sub with a sock. Theres a difference afterwards,.
@@SpacedOutDoonie nice
I notice you did not mention anything about Amp efficiency.
What is the slope of the crossover on the sub, please?
great explanation, thank you
Go for a passive radiator... no chuffing and they are far tighter
I like graphs that have no indication of what its graphics. What exactly are the x and y
Hey how did you fit that dude in that square at the bottom of the stand the speakers are sitting in behind the black subwoofer on the table ? lol
Sealed and ported! Sealed for suspension control and porting for the tone desired
I was a hater for sealed subs until I sealed a 4 inch soundbar subwoofer Lol😂, before seal (poor port design) 72 Hz Fs, After Seal response down to 44 Hz! Soothing bass
Really usefull information. Thanks
So question. Would there be a benifit to a box that is split? Meaning one side using ported and one enclosed. Would you get the best of both worlds? Obviously you would need more room.
I have almost this setup in my vehicle, I have one box ported to specs, and one box sealed to specs (same model sub). You do kind of get the best of both worlds, but it is more of a middle ground. I get more low end with one of them ported, but not as low if I had two ported. And, I get better response and punchiness with one sealed, but not as good if I had two sealed..
So a middle ground.