Creality Ender 3 Glass Bed Installation and Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Chuck tests out a glass bed for the Creality Ender 3 to see how well it works and compares it to the stock build-tak style bed material. He steps you thru the installation and what to adjust and then does a test print and reviews the results under a microscope.
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THANK YOU, SIR!
FOUR years later and this video is STILL relevant!
You nailed the issue I was having, where you said to center and touch the nozzle to the bed, then raise the Z switch until it is JUST touching! All other references I've found leave out that little detail or infer to bring it up until the switch is completely depressed!
When you raize the z axis switch do you raise it until it just touches or until it clicks?
You sir, are a life saver. After hours of trying to level the bed, I had one or more corners that were "good" but the others weren't. This is due to not raising the z-axis switch. Thanks buddy.
Woah.. you need to tighten the concentric bolt on the y-axis, under the bed. That thing looks like it's wobbling pretty bad at the 2:25 mark of the video.
I was having bed adhesive issues and just got one of these. Fixed all of my problems. 👍 would recommend it
Thank you! I just received my glass bed this morning and your video was very helpful in setting it up and leveling it.
Thanks so much for this video. Just got my E3 a few days ago. Just now getting first decent print going. With my E3, it came with the glass AND the other textured bed, but it was also removable and required clips. Your explanation of putting the nozzle on the glass and then adjusting the Z Limit switch was most helpful for me. I've got both surfaces on the bed now, with clips, and zeroed the Z switch as you said, adjusted bed with glossy paper (original "instructions") and also by eyeballing, and I'm about 20 min into a print of a few modification parts. Thanks! already subscribed :)
Hi CHEP, I got my first 3D Printer (Ender 3 Pro) a few days ago, literally been watching all your videos, I just want to say thanks for making these, I'm sure it's been helping a lot of other people like it has helped me! Keep up the good job :D
Thanks. Glad they helped.
@@FilamentFriday I have to agree, I got my first 3d Printer about a month ago, been finding your videos very helpful, and actually was just about to order the Glass base plate since I bought the Ender 3 Pro, already had upgraded it with the EZABL and that has helped, the only problem is my magnetic bed has -lumps- in it >.< so currently depending on where a print is, some layers of the first one to three are either thin or not printing from the minor variance, n ot that bad on the fact Ihave been learning, but I am getting this so I actually can make sure my prints get more consistant as I get more into it.
Hey Chep, I bought this same glass bed and mine came with a coating of glue on the underside. Also, because of the weight, I went ahead and updated the out-of-the-box leveling springs. And yes, I had to raise my z-axis switch to account for the extra thickness. All in all, I'm super happy with the glass bed.
thank you for the info, rattled my brain thinking "with the 4mm glass height how will I level to bed" and its easy now I have adjusted the mircoswitch on the left.
Thanks. You just helped me level the bed with glass perfectly! Just had to move my z stop up a little.
Thank you. You made my son’s Christmas and a father happy!
Cool Chuck thanks! Looking forward to your findings on the ringing.
Liked seeing your leveling method, I had tried the recommended paper calibration but this works much better for me too!
I think this is something that isn't made adequately clear to beginners. The paper calibration is just to get you close enough that you can do the live leveling. One detail that I wish he would have mentioned is to run the machine at quarter speed while you're doing it so that you have more time.
The ringing is most likely acceleration settings on the Y axis being off due to the weight of the glass bed
exactly its because of the increased weight...
Yes, that is the cause. On Marlin firmware the acceleration settings are also used for deceleration so if you reduce your Y axis acceleration settings you should reduce the ringing.
Anthony Rich long time sense post. But would reducing up axis setting speed slow the speed of print aka print time all together.
Hey CHEP
Look closely as you move the screws on the heated bed for leveling
You can see that the Y axis flexes a lot
I would recommend to tighten the Y axis rollers
I had no issues ith this @500mm/s2 and 80mm/s...
I'm glad I'm not the only one that levels the bed once the print starts! LOL
Thanks for the vid Chuck. I'm hoping to add and Ender 3 soon to my MP Select 2.1 as something to have better detail. I've thought about a glass bed and will be watching closely to see what you do here. Cheers!
The removable magnetic bed that came with the ender 3 pro was phenomenal for about 3 days. Then like an absolute melon I decided to use the included metal scraper due to a fairly stuck part.
It stripped the bed so bad that it basically made it bald in several little spots and filament doesn't adhere to it at all.
I don't blame anyone but myself.
Haha, dont bļame yourself. I bought acetone and cleaned my biqu b1 plate. Nothing sticks anymore T_T
Thank you so much sir, fixing to order these glass beds. I found out the long way my bed is high in the middle😖.
I got the same glass bed for my Ender 3 Pro to replace the floppy magnetic bed that came with the unit. It works great. I had to reduce the bed temp from 60 to 50 and found that my prints adhere just fine at that temperature. You do have to wait until the bed cools to remove the prints, however, if you’re impatient and can’t wait that long, I found that if you spritz some isopropyl alcohol at the base of the print upon completion, it helps to detach it without the need for scrapers (which mar the glass). Also, there was no need for binder clips. After a few prints, the glass bed has seemingly glued its self down. The downside is I can’t easily remove the glass bed without some force and potential damage. But that’s okay, it’s easily cleanable with some alcohol.
I would imagine the vapor action of the isopropyl alcohol would help it cool faster.
Thank you, your videos have been extremely helpful
Thank you! I couldn't get my cr-10 mini leveled because of warped glass, I did exactly what you did, adjusting while it's printing and then starting over, and got my first print done! Maybe now I'll ditch the glass completely... But I like glass... We'll see.
Some people buy 12” mirrors from Lowe’s and use them on CR-10. You can cut them down to fit mini.
Hi. Probably someone already told you but the waves you saw on edges are the consequence of increased mass of bed compared to original magnetic plate.
Rubber belts is very elastic and this extra mass induced waves when suddenly you pass from X movement to Y movement.
You can solve printing at lower speed or changing belts with higher stiffness type.
Bye
He said the weight was the issue in the video though lol
Thanks for this quick review. I’m glad you mentioned the mini because I want this glass for my mini. Does this glass fit the mini and if it doesn’t, can it be cut? Thank you.
great video.. I was going to print a shim the same thickness as the glass and use that to gauge how far to move the Z-stop switch up the vertical extrusion.
im using your method
just what I was looking for, thank you from Argentina :D
I picked up that Creality 3D base to and use it on my Alfawise, a clone of the CR10. I LOVE it! I tried many but this one is a winner. Holds tight when the bed is hot and lifts right off when the bed it cool. All I do before a print is wipe it with a rag. Also, I installed the SD card ribbon but had to cut off the top part and then flip it around so the Filament Friday. com words are upside down but works fine. Thanks for all you do. I'm proud to be a Patrion Supporter, more should.
Your support is appreciated.
My later version came with a removable BuildTak type with clips, ordered the glass upgrade, mine came with the next size up clips included.
Chep, to get rid of that ringing you're going to have to adjust your PID and K values in your firmware. The reason the ringing occurs is because the printer isnt expecting the added weight of the bed so the printer will undercorrect itself when quickly moving around so it doesnt get to that equilibrium position quite as easy
the power and stabilizing values in the printer need tweaking just a tad to reduce the ringing. I think TT has a few step by step videos on how to do it, however you will have to update your firmware which can be bothersome if you dont have the correct cables
But in the end, you'll have a glass bed printer without sacrificing print quality :)
@FabulousFoil searched out teaching tech and then youtube in general for a video like you described you. Could you give a hint? :)
Hi CHEP, this new glass bed is definitely thicker. How does one adjust the offsets with this new bed, so I'm in the right ballpark to begin bed leveling?
Hey Chep, does the magnetic layer stay on the bed or is it removed before installing glass bed
I level the bed using x,y and a 00.03 feeler gauge,which is the thickness of paper.
The print comes out precise
Paper is typically 0.08 to 0.1 mm so 0.03 is far closer to zero so that would make sense.
Hi CHEP, great video as always! Did you change your original temperature settings: 205 NOZZLE, 50 BED - when switching to the glass bed?
Yes, this was the first thing that came to my mind when I've mounted the glass. Do we need to adjust the bed temperature because of the glass (for PLA)?
Thank do telling how to install it I was wondering g how to move the z stopper axis thingy
Hope you figured it out by now in 2022... Change the springs will make up for the extra weight...
A couple of suggestions from me. One don't forget to adjust the Z stop switch when mounting the glass bed. I did the first time I tried and couldn't get it adjusted. How do you know when it's adjusted correctly? Adjust it until it clicks.
Second if you decide to use Binder clips any size from 3/4 inch up will work. I originally used 1-1/4 " clips and they took up a lot of space and if I put them near the corners it was hard to get to the bed screws. Now I have 3/4" clips and there's a lot more room on my bed.
I took the provided surface to the hardware store. The glass guy cut two plates out of scrap. Total cost $2.00. I swap the plates when it becomes a mess about every week. I run the dirty one through the dishwasher and store it . If I need to light clean the plate afterwards I use 50/50 water and white vinegar. No issues with adhesion.
Bullshit.
Got a flat polycarbonate a4 clipboard to replace the cmag sheet for my enders3 pro. Just cut to size and clip on like a glassbed. Works amazing well with PLA. Board is more flat then the cmag sheets. Only cost me 2usd for a clip board.
I don't use clips or glue at all on the glass bed. Once the bed temperature reaches 60 C your not able to lift the bed off the metal plate at all. I like your method of adjusting the bed on the fly. It makes it short work adjusting it.
Thanks for sharing😀👍
Interesting test 👍
Just in time video. I just got a Ender-3 with the glass bed. Have not used it yet. Hoping you get to the cause of the ringing and let us know. Nice one.
I just installed Bltouch and I love my prints on pure glass without glue. 🙃👍
Hi I am relatively new to all of this but have watched a lot of your videos. So much to learn. I have an ultrabase bed but have a small problem . I seem to have a small dip in the middle, so wonder if there is a fix for this. If I adjust the bed while printing to get the filament just right, when it has finished, and I auto homes the nozzle it seems to touch the glass. Cheers.
I don't know if this is right, I am only guessing, but since this is only in the Y axis and the X axis is ok, I am wondering if adjusting the power on the stepper driver so that when the printer deccelerates the Y motor it has a little more grunt to stop the vibration. Or it could be that the belt on the Y axis needs tightening so there is less backlash.
Hello I am a new sub and very much like your videos on my Ender 3! Question did you ever do a update that you found out how to fix that print quality issues with the glass bed, causing those lines? Thank you!
Lower jerk to 8 and tighten the belts.
I find that two clips are sufficent, Most of the time I can get the piece off with my hands without a scraper but when I do need a scraper its easier to remove it from the bed to scrape and not damage the printer.
Thanks Chep for your reply. But do you know if there is a problem with rpthe glass sticking to the plate IF the membrane is NOT removed. Your videos have taught me a lot, so thanks for you good work.
No, I don’t believe it will stick.
Well you add mass to the bed all elastic things like belts and springs will go further. The only thing you can do is adjusting acceleration and jerk. Tightening the belts and springs will help too.
Linear advance will help a lot too because it naturally deacellerates on the corners
I bought one today at MicroCenter for $18. Update: PLA sticks incredibly well. Haven't tested ABS yet.
Hey CHEP! First, I can't thank you enough for all your videos, they've really helped me (big noobie) with my Ender 3! I have a question: I use a magnetic plate, but I think I have a warped bed. Do you think it's possible to place this glass plate on top of the magnetic plate (the bottom layer), or do you think I'll lose too much temperature and I need to remove the bottom (sticky) layer? Also, I'm confused as to how you repositioned the switch. Thanks in advance for your advice!
Yes you can just put it on top. Just loosen the screws to move the switch up so you get the bed level adjustment range again.
Been having issues with my ender 3. Got a creality glass bed and was working great until the nozzle has been higher and higher from the bed causing the filament to release from the bed and get pulled around. Trued adjusting my Z stop and bed leveling but nothing seems to work. Any suggestions?
Do you change your build area in the slicer to adjust for the clips?
Definately giving some thought on pulling the trigger on one of these.......
Hey Chuck! I have a quick question for you. When you install a glass bed or these ultrabase type beds, do you adjust the z offset in the settings by 4mm? I've read that some people are doing that along with raising Z-limit switch
No, just the bed knobs and z switch.
Litte update: The latest Ender 3 since summer 2018 do not have glued standard beds any more. They are fixed just using clips and can be taken off just like the glass bed.
I noticed that, I got my a week or so ago and the mat was just attached via a couple binder clips. It appeared that they also added a clip to the boden tube so I didn't have to add that. It looks to me like they've gotten most of the little issues resolved as mine printed quite well with minor assembly.
Look at the bottom of the clipped on OEM bed. You can see air bubbles between the fiberglass and the printing surface. Those air bubbles mean high spots.
The air bubbles grow as the glue out-gasses...
i just use 3mm glass its very light. The same type of glass used in picture frames. You wouldnt want to drop anything on it though it would crack very easily but i have had some stubborn prints where i put too much glue down and had to basically chisel them with my scraper to get them off and never broken one. I did break one when i dropped a stepper motor on it when i had been fixing it and cracked it. But very cheap to replace it only cost me $3 AUD
I have a bl touch and i followed guidea to check the z offset but its been messy. Would you do a video on bl touch and glass plate installation
Hello Chuck! Thanks for the videos and profiles! I have your Cura Profile for Cura 4.0 and I added a glass bed, can you share your jerk and acceleration settings? I saw that you were changing them to minimize the ghosting. Thanks in advance!
Where can I get those settings?
I settled on 500 and 8.
Thank you for this video. I understand until about 1:50 into the video., What exactly are you doing there? I know you are adjusting the home position, but I am not sure what you are unscrewing on the side of the printer or how you know how to set it. Is there anyway you can explain it in basic terms for me? I am very basic in my mechanical knowledge. Thank you and I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. They have been very helpful.
Not Chuck, but he is adjusting homing z homing switch because the bed is higher than the original bed, that means that the nozzle will come in contact with the glass bed if you dont do it.
This might be a good opportunity to try the new S-Curve acceleration in Marlin 1.1.9.
I wonder if it will reduce your ringing?
Tech2C it makes it worse
Should you take off the original bed mat before putting the glass on or use them both? Also is there any heating variations or loss of heat from the glass?
Raise the temp 10° for glass
1:55 If you reposition the switch so that it's just touching BUT NOT ACTIVATING, then you'll damage the head when it needs to go lower to activate the switch.
High IQ observation.
Great video Chuck. I think with most modifications on these printers there is always a trade off. This plastic sticks well and releases easier the trade off is the ringing. I wonder if slowing down the print speed would reduce the ringing and then your only trade off would be time. :-P
I'm seeing some videos where guys are not using any adhesion material at all FOR PLA. They're just washing their glass with dishwashing detergent and not touching it with their fingers. I know creality says isopropyl alcohol but some of these guys are saying that isopropyl alcohol leaves a thin layer of hydrocarbons on the glass.
I just printed the alien face huger top on the glass. It’s looks great but way too hard to remove. Went back to the magnet one
@chep, I've been watching all your videos to prepare for a Ender-3 printer (First 3D printer). Was expecting to be waiting weeks+ till China Shipment made it, but an Ender 3 Pro, with Same Glass Bed, and a MicroSwiss Extruder became available locally, so I picked it up today. Was Caught off guard being a 3Dprinter Owner ahead of plan. Had trouble leveling using that Sticker Technique you taugh in another video.. This ** AS-YOU-PRINT Leveling method ** in this VIDEO...WORKED LIKE A CHARM (better!!).
(One question. I downloaded your CHEP-Bed-Level Test code, sliced it, and why does it print Outer Rings first and works inward. In your video it's the other way around, and make more sense that way)..Many thanks for all your videos so far. I've watch all kind of Print Help Video's, and your's are the best, and keep me coming back (It's your fine points and Experience)
From the video it looked like the bed on your Ender 3 was wiggling with pressure really easy, I would check the eccentric nuts attached to the rollers under the bed. They needed adjusting on my and it fixed my ringing problem I was getting.
I had to loosen mine or I got binding and messed up prints.
Gotcha, for me it about a day a fiddling to find the balance between binding and ringing.
Howdy Chuck! Does adding components that are heavier than the part that they are replacing like Direct feed or glass bed have any down sides? Have you done covered this subject before?
I’ve covered both. Extra weight can be an issue and may need acceleration/jerk adjustments.
I have a glass bed I got for my printer which is different to your printer . It has a auto leveling sensor and I can’t work out how to adjust the level for the slightly thicker glass bed . And also the sensor does not work on glass unless I stick some foil on the bed . How do you adjust the sensor because I moved it to clean and how to adjust the setting of the home point after you set the new zero on the z axis for the glass because mine keeps going back to the original home point level after I set the new z axis zero level . And is there a sensor that works for glass . Thnx
Hey Chep, I use the same method to level the Bed like you did, using the skirt to check if it is good!
Hey Chuck thanks for doing this video. Maybe you can answer this question. I took off the original magnetic build surface off my hotbed. I wanted to go with glass with ultrabase. But there's this massive adhesive layer I'm wondering if I can set the glass on the bed? Will that affect the heating? Or should I put the original magnetic bottom layer and set the glass on that with the clips? Thanks so much.
Either way should work. Just raise the temp about 10° for glass bed over the magnetic bed.
is your bed still this shaky 2:20 when you adjust it? i have an ender 3 pro (maybe the 4040 for the y axis helps?) and its never that bad when i adjust the bed! i did make sure the y axis was tightened when i assembled it.
I was about to note the same thing when I read your comment. That loose bed with the added extra weight of the glass is an issue. I'm looking at a glass bed due to some uneven bed heating issues so this was a good vid to watch. I will make sure my bed is nice and tight (it is currently) when I install a glass plate.
I was hoping this would be a solution to my bed issue. My standard bed is bent upwards towards the center making any large prints impossible as leveling it across the whole surface isn't possible, if this just sticks over the top of the current bed this doesn't really solve my issue but I'll keep looking. Great video man!
My Ender 3 Pro with the magnetic base has the same problem. I solved it by using another TH-camr's tip: place a post-it under the magnetic mat where it dips. Problem solved.
my ender 3 has same problem too. corners are lower than middle
I'm curious, many months later, if adjusting the acceleration or jerk settings helped reduce the ringing?
Slightly but not completely.
Does the nozle leave scratches on glass if its too close to it? Thanks for your answer, happy printing Chep.
It can.
Yes it happened to me setting the nozzle height
Great video, I am looking into upgrading my stock Ender 3 bed, but I don't want to sacrifice quality.
a) is the difference in quality considerable in your opinion?
b) has changing print speeds mitigated this?
thanks for your input and making great videos!
This does really affect quality. It just gives you a more level build surface.
@@FilamentFriday I'm thinking he is worried about the waving that was occurring around the Y, and is asking if having to deal with that effect is worth the upgrade.? What settings need to be adjusted to mitigate this effect?
Yes, a little soap and water did the trick. Now just wipe with a dry rag and it works great
Good evening Chuck, should the bed leveling screws be tightened all the way down first before moving the switch?
Mid point. That way you have travel both directions.
Awesome Video, What are the tempiture adjustments moving from standard bed to glass. Say fo basic PLA Im using 205 / 80 bed would I need to increase the temp 10 degrees 15++????
80 degrees C bed temperature is pretty warm for PLA. Assuming all settings are set perfectly, that’s about as high as you should need to go with the glass bed.
I have moved the Z-limit switch up a slight distance and when the printer lays down the purge on the build plate, the nozzle, filament, is dragging across the clip which secures the mat to the build. Is there a Y-axis adjustment which will allow the purge to further back on the Y-axis so as not to drag the filament across the clip?
You may need to adjust the driver voltage on the Y Axis
I was watching your videos that used the Ender 3 because I just got one. I bought the glass bed plate as soon as I ordered the printer and didn't realize it came with a removable plate. Now I wish I didn't get the glass. The plate that comes with it really works well.
I saw in the video when you were adjusting the height your table wobbled quite a bit. The weight of the glass would probably make your bed more unstable I would think. Maybe this was the reason for the ringing? I watched my bed to see if mine wobbled at all while adjusting it and it is tight as a drum. It came with the bearings loose making the table wobble badly but I adjusted them and it seems quite solid now.
did you get the Ender 3 Pro? If so, you must've gotten the removable magnetic bed. That works well but after a couple of print it will also warp. Glass bed is the way to go if you print a lot.
I still prefer glass for some prints as I showed in this video:
th-cam.com/video/mDNo1yyGosI/w-d-xo.html
It’s nice to have the options.
@@johnsabilla5897 No I got the Ender 3 Standard straight from Creality. I figured they would give me the latest version hoping for a updated firmware version. I print some ABS so I didn't want the magnetic bed. I'm sure the glass will be fine. It's cheap enough but that fiberglass build sheet that came with it works awfully well too.
you can upgrade the springs under the bed to help with the extra weight that's what i did
Great Video. I recently piurchased this bed for my ender 3 and i have been dealing with some pretty bad warping and my prints just not sticking well enough. I have raised the temp and done a few other things but is there someething else I should adjust?
The glass is warped?
Clean it with isopropyl alcohol.
@@FilamentFriday I've cleaned it before they print :(
Sounds like a defective glass bed. Warped and not sticking.
It's possible you could fix a warped glass bed if you have a torch and a flat metal surface. Whichever side is raised higher in the middle, place that face down and then intermittently hit it with a torch for 2 seconds at a time spiraling from outer layer to the center. Let cool then hold sideways to test level.
Pull the fiberglass and printing surface bed... and you don't gain as much height. Also it will heat the glass faster and have the bed temperature more accurate.
In essence you left a double layer insulator between the bed heater and the glass.
And leaving the OEM print surface between adds weight which means adding momentum when the bed is moving, amplifying the Y axis issues.
Mine doesn’t have a fiberglass bed surface. It’s a Buildtak material that is stuck to the aluminum and I still want that sometimes.
Do you need to use the stock mat to use the glass bed or can use the glass bed directly onto the aluminum bed surface?
Either way works.
I love using this bed with my EZABL. I have probably printed over 150 hours with it. I have been wiping my glass down with alcohol between prints after it cools but have noticed a slight haze build up. What can I do to make it look like stock again? I want to get my shiny glass back.
I am having major under extrusion problems with the magnetic base, especially when it comes to calibrating it with the Chep bed squares profile, I think I might go glass, all my walls are wea
k when it comes to boxes or tabs that stick out, maybe new springs?
If it’s under extruding that has nothing to do with the bed. Check this:
th-cam.com/video/MaMYMTX1Xl4/w-d-xo.html
Could you link the paint scraper chep because all I can find is bob ross ones on amazon ty
When repositioning the Z-switch did was the switch engaged or just touching the top of the trigger not engaged?
I adjust to just before it clicks.
I can't retire the printed parts from the bed. Of course they are already cool but they seem to be impossible no un stick from the bed. Any ideas?
I bought that same Creality glass a month ago. At first I cannot get good adhesion for ABS at 100 deg C bed temp. Then read from Aliexpress feedbacks to use 110 deg C. It did work but I still get a lot of warping at corners. Same problem when printing large objects using PLA. Then I tested printing with an enclosure. Warping was reduced but I'm still not happy with the outcome. Tried improving the enclosure, but the Ender 3 frame is getting scary hot for long prints. All these trial and error is just too much effort. Finally I gave up and went back to the original Buildtak type surface.
I've had this issues with this also/ You may be printing to hot. try lowing you nozzle temp in 5 degree increments. for PLA i used 195-200 depending the manufacture of filament. i haven't tried with abs yet.
@@The_Blue_Portal Thanks for the suggestion. Will try soon even if with a doubt, since ABS is so easy to peel off the ultrabase material even when hot. I like to see this work since the bottom finish look so nice. People won't believe its from a 3d printer.
William Chong no problem it actually a common misconception printing hot will help with adhesion. On the first layer heat is your friend but the higher you go up the more it becomes you enemy. It’s the contraction of the filament as it cools which lifts your prints so the hotter it comes out the more it’ll contract.
Exactly my experience.
Thanks
I would like to know how far you raised the Z cutoff switch. Did you go to full contact or at the initial point of contact.
When it clicked
When you’re saying you move the z switch to when it’s *just* touching, are you meaning where it just barely touches the metal or where it makes the z switch click?
Touches the metal.
Curious... in the end, what was your final takeaway? Do you prefer printing on glass or the build plate that came with your ender3? We have a CR-20 and trying to decide which one we'd prefer using.
Depends what on the print. If I want a smooth surface I use glass. If I need a large flat surface glass works best. If I’m printing ABS, then glue stick on glass works good. If it’s PLA or PETG, then often the stock sheets work best.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks. Appreciate the help as my son and I are just learning. We're currently printing mostly with PLA. Reason I ask, when checking plate for level using precision triangle and feeler gauge, build-tak plate might need some shims in a few corners and sides while glass plate appears very level. considering adding a little masking tape under build plate to level things out.
Mine came with that bed but it's kind of hollow in the center
I went ahead and bought this from the link in the description. When it arrived I realized theres an adhesive backing on it and I do not want to stick it to my heat bed. Can I leave the adhesive covering on the back and just use binder clips ? Or do you think the heat will melt the adhesive covering? Thanks for the great vids!
It will probably work but might be better to scrape it off. The seller must have changed as mine didn’t have that.
I took mine off
Hi Chuck, many thanks for your guidance, got my glass bed in place. How do I relocate the Y zero so the fan cowl on the right of the printer head crash into my clips? Can I just adjust the position of Y microswitch in the same way you moved the Z switch up to account for the extra glass thickness? Sorry, noob question I am sure!!
On most printers you can.
Hey Chep, I recently bought this bed, it works great and is very level although when it cools I can't remove the prints. Any suggestions on what could be causing this? I print at 65C for PLA and have a cr touch installed on my ender 3. Do you think I might have my bed fractionally too close to the nozzle?
Yeah. Increase Z offset.
@@FilamentFriday Thank you! Keep making great videos 👍
I'm not CHEP but I also have this issue. I measure the height of my first layer with digital calipers. If I print at 0.28 layer, i typically measure around 0.25, pretty close to the desired layer requirement. Not much room to raise Z offset. What I'm testing in conjunction with the first layer height accuracy is bed temp. If you're doing PLA, 65C may be too high. I print PLA at 50C and still hd removal issues. I tried 40C and prints were much easier to take off. Try it.
With the coating that is on this bed, is it still necessary to use painters tape to avoid PETG from fusing to the glass?
I’ve never had that problem. Only on PEI beds.