Folkboat Anatomy
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- Episode 4
Work continues on Paul Jones, my 1961 English Folkboat.
Scraping paint off the inside of a wooden boat is slow work. I don't think it's ever been done since the boat was built.
But... It's a great way to get to know a boat in intimate detail... and its given me a much better understanding of how it's put together.
Much more immediately gratifying... I've started to remove some of the keel bolts.
Music
Black Bear... by Jonathan Lloyd-Jones.
Listen to more of his music at...
/ tracks
Lots of brave pills. Well done!
What an astounding labour of live. Brave, courageous and lonely work in a cold boatyard on one’s own!
very interesting... thanks a bunch!
Steve, Steve, Steve...
You really don’t get it. Some of us LIKE watching someone strip paint out of an old project boat!! It’s always fun watching someone who knows what the hell they are doing, going about doing it...
Very entertaining. Thanks for making this video.
since last sept I have been the owner of an Edgar Coe motor sail circa 1969 she was in shiny new paint and so far there have been major works to the bow next to reduce her intake of water will need the very work you have undertaken,but I have done me time In GRP snd I have the services of the the most amazing ship wright and my own input. It of course pure love of wooden boats / craft Not much more to add really except thank you so very much ,it is good to know that I am not a certifieable case just yet.
I'm from Texas and love folk boats. I'm not even a sailor but I love the idea!
With regards to the gaps between the planks ,set up and route out to a standard size, then fit a spline,i have found that this is the best way ,setting up the router takes time for the first one ,but practice improves your time in setting up,great video keep up the good work
You have been busy, as far as I can tell people seem to love watching someone strip paint. I particular like the sketch on the hull of the parts of the keel etc. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for making the effort, well done. Please restart your video, they are informative and very pleasantly done.
The hull planks swell as son as its in water so if you spline it, you allow no room for plank expansion and you can have planks ripping off the frames and under severe stress. You could spline every other one and re cotton every other one. No one can tell once it's all painted. But don't spline the whole hull or the planks are going to buckle when wet. That's what the wood boat guy told me when I complained about the gaps. They used linseed oil based putty for caulk. I'm using poly butyl black and it has flex and it's used to glue copper to chimney brick and goes up to 150 F and stays like urethane. I think it's the same as what glues deck teak together, stays flexible in heat. I pushed my cotton in a tiny bit deeper to make a place for the caulk bead.
Very informative for a landsman who dreams of owning a boat. Subscribed!
Me too I have never been sailing but I have this urge too and I am drawn to the folkboat!
excellent work
Very interesting!
What a great video. Thank you very much.
I like the way you make your videos, and nice project. Keep it going!
Interesting to look at I will check your other videos as well.
very interesting and well spoken. I've known projects of this size and know it can be daunting. Remember the old saying, how do you eat an elephant...one bite at a time.
nice boat mate
Lot,s of people love watching process. Easy ? Fasinating? No and yes.
Can you dig a Hole under the Keel bolt or is the yard Floor concrete , if you could would help when you put another one In
My boat was kept in cold water in Maine. There are teredo worms even in Hudson River so with tar and copper on my boat, I can go to the tropics and have it survive. The Spanish armada was defeated and sunk by ship worms. The word Tar Heels for slang name for North Carolina people was from painting boats with pine tar on a sand bar and walking around with the tar on their boots. Slash pine.......any pine tree hey would slash with an axe that sap would run out of for boat tar.
That red paint might be red lead. It's really the best boat paint as it kills fungi, but you don't want to sand it. Your boat is in beautiful shape for its age. I'd fill those gaps with splines made as a slight wedge and fitted from the outside so extreme water pressure way down there can't blow them into the boat, don't trust the epoxy. So you'd grind a wedge shape in the crack and fit a wedge shaped spline. Grey epoxy is better than the clear, but for looks they use clear.
I'd not pull out yhe cotton but paint the hull with coal tar epoxy and then coal tar from anthracite not road asphalt tar. You get it in a small can after melting it into the can, then heat it on a propane stove to 300 degrees F or till it paints well. Then quickly paint it on. You get two strokes and have to return to the hot can held with a winter glove. I did this and my hull looks like a vinyl album shiny too. Then copper goes on and that added weight is OK because no engine. People who know how to sail just need a small outboard to get out off the dock if even that. The coal tar epoxy goes right over the wood after scraping. It binds the real coal tar to the wood, like a intermediary layer. Noah would be delighted as it won't be de laminated.
for those wide seams, glue in the splines or wedges using epoxy. ----Mikey--Sequim, USA
Just found your site from Sampson Friends. Looking at the construction of the yard where your boat is stored you could excavate immediately beneath the keel bolt and make good when finished. I like your style and pace. Regards from a wooden boat man in The Mediterranean - concrete hard so no excavations here. Good Luck.
Oooops just watched Episode 5.
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10:44 well that was easier than I expected.
Your Folk boat is so strong, you could sail around the world and just heave to in a storm and sleep in a hammock. Fiberglass has a toxic smell to it that makes wood boats way more excellent, and the strength. If your keel ran aground on corral, the corral is going to crush not the keel. It's also self steering, no need for all the wind vane gadgets.
Spline the whole boat and be done with it. By doing so you will eliminate the need for recaulking, bedding and sealing it all up. It a process to do it right but in the end you'll be glad you did it.
Round and Square Boats. Thanks for the video, my Dad had a clinker folkboat when I was a kid here in Australia, we sailed her around Sydney and the Hawkesbury river, I'm thinking about trying to find her and buy her. Regarding the gaps in the hull because of the rotted timber, do clinker hulls last longer than carvel? What are the pros and cons?
Very interesting commentary about the structure of the boat. If you do cut bolt 4 are you able to dig a pit to install the new one or are you raising the boat anyway?
The problem I have is that the yard floor is concrete and the owner doesn't want me to dig a hole. I'll have another go at persuading him next week. Without a hole I'll have to cut it to get it out but it'll be pretty frustrating if I cut it in half only to find it was ok. I can replace the bolt with one that has a nut both ends so it can drive in from above.
Hello. Thanks so much for the great video! I want to ask you, and any commentators, for some advice:
I am trying to reduce the weight of a Scandinavian Folkboat that I want to haul with a car and trailer (my car doesn't support the full weight of the trailer and the boat).
To achieve this, I am considering removing the keel and come back for it later.
Do you have any thoughts on this operation?
- If I remove all of the keel bolts, will I be able to separate the keel from the rest of the boat without anything else coming off?
Thank you for any answers!
No reason in theory why you shouldn't do this and in the end you'll know you have good keelboats and a freshly bedded ballast but.... do you have access to lifting equipment etc... you'll need this at both ends. It may make more sense to borrow or hire a bigger towing vehicle and trailer. I used a landcover and car trailer to move mine.
I would suggest putting a shorter bolt of the same diameter through the hole, while in transit, it will keep everything aligned for when you go to reinsert the keel bolts
My Folk boat is from 1956 built in Marblehead Mass. 30 ft and 9000 lbs. After I saw that I could stand up in it without hitting my head, I was a buyer. 3k, trailer was 9k. Crane lift was 800, truck driver delivery 700, new used aluminum mast 450 on ebay, delivery charge from Florida 700. Money saved having the trailer built is 3600 per year. 3 years later, trailer becomes a winner. You never store a boat at a marina or on land you don't own, or you are probably going to lose your boat. Cost to store it becomes way more than its worth, the owners walk away. Local sheriff has new bk title written up, marina auctions your boat. Pirates not just on the water, they own the marinas. If you have Bermuda cash then you can do anything, but I am saying how it is for us blue collar guys who need to save up so we can sail. B.O.A.T..........Bring On Added Tranquility. If you make the right moves as to boat logistics..........
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Dig a hole to get the keel bolt out without raising boat
These cast iron keels are too heavy, imo. They don't expect you to fill up with 600 lbs of canned goods and water, but I can't eat the iron keel weight. These boats can tend to ride low in the water, very stable but going to be slow. I want to use up like 50 cutting wheels and shave 3 inches off each side of my keel and grind it off flat and smooth, and weigh all the chunks of iron I chip off to figure out what gain I am getting so I don't ruin the dynamics. My masters was nearly solid spruce and heavy as a bear. I has an aluminum one delivered and I can lift it myself. I need my mast in a tabernacle because without a real engine, I have no plan B approaching a bridge. So it's to be junkrigged with a jib and in a tabernacle that has a post cleat in front so you jam a 2x4 in the tabernacle cleat and stand on it to lift the mast up. I it's going to work because I am going to make it work. If you look at a Bermuda rig vs a junk rig, it's because the British nor Americans take bamboo seriously. Bamboo is amazing material. Tension or sheer. Strength to weight. Bar none. All you do is wrap wire around it between the nodes and polyurethane it. Puts aluminum in the grave. Aluminum bends. Fiberglass splinters after UV light eats it up. I can get bamboo for free and that's how I can afford Brazilian teak for the deck. No wasting money on glitzy high tech crap that doesn't work well. This coal tar comes in large 100 lb steel cans. You lay it sideways in the sun on a tarp and after 2 days it oozes out and you stuff the goo into small tin cans, it's like playdoo or soft clay. It was about 100 USD for 1 can that can do 2 or 3 boats. Have to search for where they repair old school roofs, the flat ones with stones on top. They all use type 1 coal tar. Type 4 is better, but about twice as dangerous to apply. Type 4 is for slopes. Road tar can and will dissolve lignins in the wood so you want the real ancient pine sap, coal derived tar.
Your partner Morak?
kneepads bro?
Neverseize? Anybody?!
Do you mean the aluminium grease?