Your the man of the hour well done informative video, , live on Vancouver island and would love to own an english folk boat, but the moorage here $500 a month, not much luxury of setting on the hard or softer bottom. Makes me think of the Nordic boats with rugged coast line and accomadatin design changes.
Hi it’s absolutely amazing to find you you’re one of the most affable of the boat rebuilders I’ve seen yet looking forward to watching the craft through completion.
good to see progress, love that you are saving a wooden sailing boat. We have horse drawn carriages. We oil them every few years. When we do yes we get the linseed oil warm, also we put in some turpentine (thinner), maybe 25% thinner to oil. It seems to help the oil soak in. After a few hours we then wipe off all the excess. Do not know it this will help your boat, but it may. Someone should know.
Enjoyable watch. Good to see angle grinder and belt sander at work, not everyone has access to ship saws. Working outside in the winter months shows commitment.
I applaud the thoroughness of your restoration and hope that you are well on your way to having the hull completed. I look forward to watching the next installments.
Well done Steve, head down and keep going. The bow is coming back together nicely. Chain plates are an issue with Folkboats as you have found out. Keep the water out is the key.Some people change them and fix them to the outside of the hull but its not as clean looking. Well done looking forward to the next instalment. R
Exccellent work, Great to see you tackle all these 'flaws" with the unbeatable: no messing about attitude. I'm thinking about buying a wooden Folkboat here in Holland, so it gives me a great insight in the subject, thanx 4 that.
Hi Steve good move by using the lazer as it has allowed you to ensure that you have retained the center line which will help you maintain the shape of your Hull to design intent particularly as you don't have original lofting drawings for comparison
Hi screws are most likely only below the water line, the cause is galvanic corrosion and oil should be mixed with turpentine preferably pine. It gives a good smell in the boat. Hope this helps you
Really enjoying your work. You will have a excellent boat when finished, knowing every square inch of it as well. Lovely little boats the Folkboat. Looking forward to the next instalment.
You are an inspiration. I am looking at a folkboat (this one carvel like yours, my first was lapstrake, so your experiences are very relevant) and there could be problems with the steel keelbolts and floors which I don't think have been inspected in quite a while and have deteriorated. The worst one looks to be at the deep floor near the stern. I understand that steel keelbolts are the best option into an iron keel (similar metal) but I am anticipating some difficulty getting them out. Were yours pocketed into a hole cast into the side of the keel or through bolted the whole depth of the keel and out the bottom? What was your stategy for freeing them up (heat, vibration, soaking etc?). I am a bit worried about having a wasted bolt braking off inside the keel too. i would be very interested to hear your experiences if you have the time. How are things progressing anyway (work, covid, weather)?
I had an East German Folkboat many years ago, not the pick of them but they were cheap. Sadly she was lost after breaking her mooring in a gale. I then cheated and got a Contessa 26, many fewer problems but just as much fun and just as wet to sail.
Great approach to assessing and responding to this folkboat’s needs. Very satisfying to see your innovative work. I wondered a bit when you chose steel for some of the keel bolts. I know the bronze is expensive. What are your thoughts about controlling the inevitable electrolysis (cooper/bronze/steel ) and iron rot in white oak? Is the keel iron? Will zincs on the keel control this?
Why didn’t you remove the chainplates all, and reposition them to the outside, “on” the hull? No more “gunk” needed every now and then around the metal (maintenance-free on the deck since no longer going through the deck)?
The whole issue of metal on wooden boats seems shrouded in mystery and conflicting advice. But my understanding is that bronze bolts are used on lead keels and that mixing different metals generates a small electric current which causes corrosion. So, with a cast iron keel, like mine, it's best to use steel bolts. Some people say use stainless. Others say that stainless steel below the water line will cause the death of your first born. Yet others say that galvanised steel is required or that you have to find a salty old blacksmith with a secret stash of antique wrought iron. If I had more time and money I may have gone for galvanised but I recon that so long as they are properly covered with a waterproof goo, then mild steel bolts will last many years. I went for bright mild steel grade EN8 which has a higher carbon content than bog standard mild steel (but not so high as to make it brittle) and is available cheep on eBay. I've got some very nice waterproof goo from Traditional Boat Supplies in Bristol. Hopefully I'll be applying this in the nest episode.
How did the rot and damp get let go to that point, some of tehe screw holes were so numerous its not wonder the floor cracked, must have beeen a better way. Do youu suspect the boat had hit hard on rock and leaked and not taken care of immediately.
Don't buy a wooden boat unless you are very keen on spending the rest of your life working on it ,they are not worth the heart break .Fibreglass is the only way and even they are troublesome .But I admire your tenacity .
Your the man of the hour well done informative video, , live on Vancouver island and would love to own an english folk boat, but the moorage here $500 a month, not much luxury of setting on the hard or softer bottom. Makes me think of the Nordic boats with rugged coast line and accomadatin design changes.
Still amazed at your video production. Excellent editing, sound quality and story line. You must have some experience in this field. Thumbs up.
Great work. Loved the laser level drilling method.
Even the canopy you made to shelter the boat and yourself while working is a quality construction!!! I envy your skills!!
So many challenges, so many ingenious workarounds! Well done!
You qualify as a professional!
Wonderful work.
I learned a lot
Your the man of the hour well done informative video, , live on Vancouver island and would love to own an english folk boat, but the moorage here $500 a month, not much luxury of setting on the hard or softer bottom. Makes me think of the Nordic boats with rugged coast line and accomadatin design changes.
be patient and keep pushing that rock up the hill!!-Mikey--USA
Hi it’s absolutely amazing to find you you’re one of the most affable of the boat rebuilders I’ve seen yet looking forward to watching the craft through completion.
good to see progress, love that you are saving a wooden sailing boat. We have horse drawn carriages. We oil them every few years. When we do yes we get the linseed oil warm, also we put in some turpentine (thinner), maybe 25% thinner to oil. It seems to help the oil soak in. After a few hours we then wipe off all the excess. Do not know it this will help your boat, but it may. Someone should know.
Thanks for the encouragement. I thought about using turps but was a little bit worried about setting everything on fire.
Enjoyable watch. Good to see angle grinder and belt sander at work, not everyone has access to ship saws. Working outside in the winter months shows commitment.
Inspiring thanks mate!.
Got a 1960 Australian built Folkboat and tossing up how far back to go!.
Food for thought cheers.
Zeb.
I applaud the thoroughness of your restoration and hope that you are well on your way to having the hull completed. I look forward to watching the next installments.
Really liked this. Love the commitment. You got a new subscriber...
What a fantastic saga!..thanks for taking the time to shear it.
Well done Steve, head down and keep going. The bow is coming back together nicely. Chain plates are an issue with Folkboats as you have found out. Keep the water out is the key.Some people change them and fix them to the outside of the hull but its not as clean looking. Well done looking forward to the next instalment. R
Exccellent work, Great to see you tackle all these 'flaws" with the unbeatable: no messing about attitude. I'm thinking about buying a wooden Folkboat here in Holland, so it gives me a great insight in the subject, thanx 4 that.
Great work respect Steve
I look for to this videos, finding them very interesting and different from others.
Nice drill jig for the keel bolts.
There is no way i would have the patience to work with wood. I admire people that can and do.
Welldone sailor⁰great video informative cheers fair winds calm seas cheers
Amazing.
Nice work i learned a lot thanks
Hi Steve good move by using the lazer as it has allowed you to ensure that you have retained the center line which will help you maintain the shape of your Hull to design intent particularly as you don't have original lofting drawings for comparison
Hi screws are most likely only below the water line, the cause is galvanic corrosion and oil should be mixed with turpentine preferably pine. It gives a good smell in the boat. Hope this helps you
Really enjoying your work. You will have a excellent boat when finished, knowing every square inch of it as well.
Lovely little boats the Folkboat.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
just discovered and subscibed, nice work, lots to learn
Thanks very much... and you're right I definitely have lots to learn.
You are an inspiration. I am looking at a folkboat (this one carvel like yours, my first was lapstrake, so your experiences are very relevant) and there could be problems with the steel keelbolts and floors which I don't think have been inspected in quite a while and have deteriorated. The worst one looks to be at the deep floor near the stern. I understand that steel keelbolts are the best option into an iron keel (similar metal) but I am anticipating some difficulty getting them out. Were yours pocketed into a hole cast into the side of the keel or through bolted the whole depth of the keel and out the bottom? What was your stategy for freeing them up (heat, vibration, soaking etc?). I am a bit worried about having a wasted bolt braking off inside the keel too. i would be very interested to hear your experiences if you have the time. How are things progressing anyway (work, covid, weather)?
File this under, “Man not afraid of a big detailed project!” I am impressed!
I had an East German Folkboat many years ago, not the pick of them but they were cheap. Sadly she was lost after breaking her mooring in a gale. I then cheated and got a Contessa 26, many fewer problems but just as much fun and just as wet to sail.
Great approach to assessing and responding to this folkboat’s needs. Very satisfying to see your innovative work. I wondered a bit when you
chose steel for some of the keel bolts. I know the bronze is expensive. What are your thoughts about controlling the inevitable electrolysis (cooper/bronze/steel ) and iron rot in white oak? Is the keel iron? Will zincs on the keel control this?
Impressive!
Why didn’t you remove the chainplates all, and reposition them to the outside, “on” the hull? No more “gunk” needed every now and then around the metal (maintenance-free on the deck since no longer going through the deck)?
very entertaining
Are you concerned about the steel keel bolts versus using all silicone bronze?
The whole issue of metal on wooden boats seems shrouded in mystery and conflicting advice. But my understanding is that bronze bolts are used on lead keels and that mixing different metals generates a small electric current which causes corrosion. So, with a cast iron keel, like mine, it's best to use steel bolts. Some people say use stainless. Others say that stainless steel below the water line will cause the death of your first born. Yet others say that galvanised steel is required or that you have to find a salty old blacksmith with a secret stash of antique wrought iron.
If I had more time and money I may have gone for galvanised but I recon that so long as they are properly covered with a waterproof goo, then mild steel bolts will last many years. I went for bright mild steel grade EN8 which has a higher carbon content than bog standard mild steel (but not so high as to make it brittle) and is available cheep on eBay.
I've got some very nice waterproof goo from Traditional Boat Supplies in Bristol. Hopefully I'll be applying this in the nest episode.
@@roundandsquareboats1608
@@roundandsquareboats1608 Thanks for the response, I have enjoyed watching your progress! Cheers
Brilliant work. Those floors are much better than the originals. Have you eradicated all of the rot in the boat now?
Thanks. I've eradicated all the rot that I know about and I'm firmly resisting the temptation to go looking for any more.
How did the rot and damp get let go to that point, some of tehe screw holes were so numerous its not wonder the floor cracked, must have beeen a better way. Do youu suspect the boat had hit hard on rock and leaked and not taken care of immediately.
Just got a sub. I have this weird idea that I'm going to build a boat - its probably my age or dementia kicking in.
It really does help to use penetrating oil to cut threads and drill holes in metal.
It would be interesting (and, of course beneficial) if some chemist developed an additive for the linseed oil that was toxic to fungi!
Have you got it sailing?
Some good tips and tricks here ... "Every day is a School Day"
Was that 150F?
It's Centigrade/Celsius. If you pause the video you can just read it. :)
my folk boat i did up as a project it was easy but over price
look up iron sickness.
It appears that you have a Tiger by the tail.
Don't buy a wooden boat unless you are very keen on spending the rest of your life working on it ,they are not worth the heart break .Fibreglass is the only way and even they are troublesome .But I admire your tenacity .
Your the man of the hour well done informative video, , live on Vancouver island and would love to own an english folk boat, but the moorage here $500 a month, not much luxury of setting on the hard or softer bottom. Makes me think of the Nordic boats with rugged coast line and accomadatin design changes.