Mine was the MAF causing the cough and hesitation. Replaced with new and was fine. Also I replaced MAP and boost solenoid not long after as I know these cars tend to have a hissy when you replace an old part with new.
I have the same problem I have replaced the plugs boost solenoid and coil packs still the same I think it could be the tune. I have found super unleaded fuel helps a bit. I have given up for now!
Aww mate I bet ur heart was in ur mouth when u heard that knocking , thank god it wasnt serious ,,Fault finding can b fun on v best of days mate , on a plus side v maf improved things , it cant b overboost cos mine would drop 2 half gauge and feel horrible ,, I did have very similar problem which threw no faults when v fuel pressure sensor was on its way out , diagnosed with live data on a road test mate , u will fix it mate
Sounds like a good excuse to go for bigger injectors and get a Sabre tuning remap. I'm sure he could sort it, heard nothing but good things about that place.
What about intake temps? Notice that you have a cross over without any protection and open air intake. Could try buying some of the funk motorsport heat wrap for the crossover and either buying or in my case building an intake enclosure.
@@Yodaracing1 hit it with break clean first see if it fixes it. If so then teck off the intercooler and any pipes attached and wash the sludge out first b4 replacing it cos in a few months the problem could come back. 🫡
Yes mate, failing boost pressure sensor Lack of power Poor acceleration or hesitation Rough idle. In your case, it hick-ups which tells me it's not failing but is intermittently clogging. I saw sludge form a little ball that could move around between the little plastic surround and the golden-looking sensor probe. Boost rises sensor sticks car cuts boost fuel and timing etc, massive pressure drop unsticks the sensor and boosts fuel and timing come back. For the sake of one torx bit and a hour on a Sunday pull it out and take a look. Fingers crossed a free fix
Commented on the last video mate What did you set your actuator too did you keep it the same as your old one or does it al ready come set with no adjustment as that could be peaking your boost early And what spring is in your boost solenoid
Have you tried swapping the actuator back over to the original and see if the new1 is to stiff cause that was when your problem started so could point to that. Or the easier option just put the last map back on and see if its the map that the car doesn't like
I second that. My friend had a similar issue and turned out to be frayed wires on the coilpack connectors. Only became an issue once the car had been mapped.
I know mate it’s an annoying, well I brought RS coils also because the flat spot done my head in… ultimately after I done all the changes over time I think the NEW maf was the biggest difference in how it drove..
@@Yodaracing1 I was gonna suggest coil packs (also check the wiring while you're there). To save buying all 5, buy 2 coil packs for now and use them to check. 1+2, 2+3, 3+4, 4+5, then 1+3, 1+4, 1+5, then 2+4, 2+5, then 3+5 and you've checked every combination. You could also possibly return the coil packs at this point if it's not solved your problem. I had a stutter/misfire under WOT (4-pot) and did a bunch of troubleshooting, including Injector Seals, Spark Plugs, checked wiring etc, bought 2 coil packs and got lucky trying 1+2. Didn't bother elimitating a single one as the coil packs were original and 13-14yrs old so... Not saying this will solve the problem, but it's a way of checking the coil packs at least :)
i'm literally having the exact issue with my astra atm no misfire but flat spot no codes, car boosts to 18 psi, drops to 13 then holds at like 16 it's stressing me out, hope you figure out what's wrong with it pal
@@Yodaracing1 yeh mine didn't over heat or lose coolant was strange mate. Just didn't run right. Thought it was pvc valve and it wasn't. Changed all the sensors etc and wasn't that.. then stripped the engine down to find a liner cracked. No mod block. And I was running proper stage 1 or 2 was 270bhp. Had loads of power still. Buy just didn't run right on idle and slight miss fire on boost. Turnt out to be the liner. Hope this isn't the case for you but you have changed all the obvious suspects...... that 2.3 volvo block that came out standard at 300bhp with volvo but ford bore it out to 2.5 at 225bhp lol made the engine weaker. Don't get me wrong nice engine. But you gota spend some doe mate to make them reliable. First mod.... block mod.
@@Yodaracing1 turn traction control off and do a lap with it off. Mine is delayed or - sometimes cuts power when I’m footing it with no dash flash at all. More noticeable when it’s colder and the air is better for boost. Easy one to rule out if not. But definitely don’t rule out sparks or C Packs. If it’s not a traction control anomaly. May be worth removing and re fitting - check wires to the packs.
A worn boost solenoid wouldnt cause a misfire. Two unrelated things there. Youd have erratic/spiky boost if it was a worn solenoid, like the boost would come in late then all at once, not ramp up to boost smoothly, but absolutely no misfiring behaviour.
Miss fire most likely spark plugs if it's got mini coil pack's might be one off them mini one's plug in to big main coil pack chances are it.ll be that with induction kit's yer better with k&n panel filters ordered for that car exhaust system's for that car magnex full stainless Steel exhaust lifetime guarantee non resonated one's
Mine was the MAF causing the cough and hesitation. Replaced with new and was fine. Also I replaced MAP and boost solenoid not long after as I know these cars tend to have a hissy when you replace an old part with new.
Needs a rolling road, at a custom tuner like sabre where they will know exactly exactly what the car is doing
I used a 45 elbow from an rs crossover and that sorted out where the air filter sits 👍
Nice one mate
I recently purchased a cone mesh filter and mine developed a flat spot was utter shite.I fitted my old foam filter back on miles better 🤷♂️
When my coil packs went, they were okay cold but as soon as the car got up to temp it would idle lumpy ialmost like having a high lift came haha
Yea I suspect it could be them
I have the same problem I have replaced the plugs boost solenoid and coil packs still the same I think it could be the tune. I have found super unleaded fuel helps a bit. I have given up for now!
@@MarkKerr-x3v does urs have a missfire or just the flat spot ?
@@Yodaracing1 flat spot misfire and then goes i actually have got used to it 😅
@@MarkKerr-x3v deffo same as me then lol
Change the boost solenoid, either clean the maf sensor or buy a new one, Change the plugs and coils job done mate..
Aww mate I bet ur heart was in ur mouth when u heard that knocking , thank god it wasnt serious ,,Fault finding can b fun on v best of days mate , on a plus side v maf improved things , it cant b overboost cos mine would drop 2 half gauge and feel horrible ,, I did have very similar problem which threw no faults when v fuel pressure sensor was on its way out , diagnosed with live data on a road test mate , u will fix it mate
@@Focus-st330 hmm deffo could explain my issues and yea mate I proper panicked haha
@@Yodaracing1 these cars like 2 toy with our emotions mate trust me and our wallets lol
Sounds like a good excuse to go for bigger injectors and get a Sabre tuning remap. I'm sure he could sort it, heard nothing but good things about that place.
@@u04pww2 it’s deffo looking that way mate just frustrating lol
What about intake temps? Notice that you have a cross over without any protection and open air intake. Could try buying some of the funk motorsport heat wrap for the crossover and either buying or in my case building an intake enclosure.
boost pressure sensor guarantee there's a little oil sludge stuck on it. Tec it off and hit it with a little break clean.
@@stanleegreco9269 nice one mate for how cheap they are will just replace it
@@Yodaracing1 hit it with break clean first see if it fixes it. If so then teck off the intercooler and any pipes attached and wash the sludge out first b4 replacing it cos in a few months the problem could come back. 🫡
@@stanleegreco9269 nice one mate will give it a look 🙌
@@stanleegreco9269 would it cause the missfire though ?
Yes mate, failing boost pressure sensor Lack of power Poor acceleration or hesitation Rough idle. In your case, it hick-ups which tells me it's not failing but is intermittently clogging. I saw sludge form a little ball that could move around between the little plastic surround and the golden-looking sensor probe. Boost rises sensor sticks car cuts boost fuel and timing etc, massive pressure drop unsticks the sensor and boosts fuel and timing come back. For the sake of one torx bit and a hour on a Sunday pull it out and take a look. Fingers crossed a free fix
Make sure the maf sensor is the stock bosh one. They don't like any others
@@jensonnisbett7584 yes I checked to make sure mate 👍🏻
Commented on the last video mate
What did you set your actuator too did you keep it the same as your old one or does it al ready come set with no adjustment as that could be peaking your boost early
And what spring is in your boost solenoid
@@darylmc123 set it to open at 8psi as advised by dreamscience it’s a 7 psi actuator
@@Yodaracing1 no prob mate just checking there a headache when there broke 😂
Have you tried swapping the actuator back over to the original and see if the new1 is to stiff cause that was when your problem started so could point to that. Or the easier option just put the last map back on and see if its the map that the car doesn't like
I no longer have the original one as it was knackered
Change the boost solenoid. It's a cheap part.
if not the maf , likely the solenoid. Pain in the arse to get to tho.
@@euanscotland haha I know mate 🤣🤣 never straight forward with cars hahaha
Have a look at your wires or loom near the ecu or engine bay I had misfires due to worn insulation
Cheers mate
I second that. My friend had a similar issue and turned out to be frayed wires on the coilpack connectors. Only became an issue once the car had been mapped.
@@C_more_butz cheers mate will have a nose
I had a similar issue with mine no codes changed the map sensor and all sorted might be worth a go like a different car afterwards
Nice one mate will try that
@@Yodaracing1 also just remembered I had changed the boost solenoid before I did the map sensor made a bit of difference at the time
@@garyclee9384 well for how cheap they are it’s worth changing
If you don't have any warning light, it could be a maf or map or boost solonoid
No lighh no codes obvs changed maf in this video im thinking bcs
A faulty map you would have no oil temp on the turbo gauge
Look on the bright side, it surely can’t be worse than the Astra 😂. Good luck 🤞🏻
Mate if it caught fire it still wouldn’t be worse then the Astra 🤣🤣🤣
Spark plugs n coil pack mate, my car had the same issue because I used to Rev it too much
@@dartfordgadgets6776 plugs are new rs ones mate as for coil pack it has 5 lol so hard to know which one
I know mate it’s an annoying, well I brought RS coils also because the flat spot done my head in… ultimately after I done all the changes over time I think the NEW maf was the biggest difference in how it drove..
@@Yodaracing1 I was gonna suggest coil packs (also check the wiring while you're there). To save buying all 5, buy 2 coil packs for now and use them to check. 1+2, 2+3, 3+4, 4+5, then 1+3, 1+4, 1+5, then 2+4, 2+5, then 3+5 and you've checked every combination. You could also possibly return the coil packs at this point if it's not solved your problem.
I had a stutter/misfire under WOT (4-pot) and did a bunch of troubleshooting, including Injector Seals, Spark Plugs, checked wiring etc, bought 2 coil packs and got lucky trying 1+2. Didn't bother elimitating a single one as the coil packs were original and 13-14yrs old so...
Not saying this will solve the problem, but it's a way of checking the coil packs at least :)
@@EvoBeard nice one mate it’s deffo one of the things I’m gonna try they aren’t that expensive
i'm literally having the exact issue with my astra atm no misfire but flat spot no codes, car boosts to 18 psi, drops to 13 then holds at like 16 it's stressing me out, hope you figure out what's wrong with it pal
U tried the front bcs ?
@@Yodaracing1 been meaning to order one cuz they're a cheap way of checking just keep forgetting about it, gonna do it now hahaha
What was issue
Missifire when under heavy load
Had this before on my old blue one. Turnt out to be a cracked liner. Have u had the mod block done?
@@jamesgillbee5113 don’t say that 🤣🤣 it’s not losing coolant or over heating etc ? Not been block modded in my possession yet
@@jamesgillbee5113 also no hiss from header tank when cold and take cap of
@@Yodaracing1 yeh mine didn't over heat or lose coolant was strange mate. Just didn't run right. Thought it was pvc valve and it wasn't. Changed all the sensors etc and wasn't that.. then stripped the engine down to find a liner cracked. No mod block. And I was running proper stage 1 or 2 was 270bhp. Had loads of power still. Buy just didn't run right on idle and slight miss fire on boost. Turnt out to be the liner. Hope this isn't the case for you but you have changed all the obvious suspects...... that 2.3 volvo block that came out standard at 300bhp with volvo but ford bore it out to 2.5 at 225bhp lol made the engine weaker. Don't get me wrong nice engine. But you gota spend some doe mate to make them reliable. First mod.... block mod.
@@jamesgillbee5113 mine idles perfect though only started since actuator change so deffo a boost issue lol
What actuator are you running mate is the spring matching the current map if that’s wrong that can cause issues like coughing etc
@@scottwilson7927 turbosmart 7 psi one mate dreamscience reccomends set to 8 psi
@@Yodaracing1 nice one mate that’s good then 👍
Does it still misfire or choke if you rev it in neutral, is it only missing in gear and under load?
@@BPDMotorsport only in gear under heavy load
@@Yodaracing1 turn traction control off and do a lap with it off.
Mine is delayed or - sometimes cuts power when I’m footing it with no dash flash at all. More noticeable when it’s colder and the air is better for boost.
Easy one to rule out if not.
But definitely don’t rule out sparks or C Packs. If it’s not a traction control anomaly. May be worth removing and re fitting - check wires to the packs.
Flat spot was bad in my car until I brought a new maf and now I don’t have a flat spot
Lamba sensor if reading faulty knocks maff out of value gives no codes
@@scoobysean555 wouldn’t that bring up a code though ?
@@Yodaracing1 nope not all the time bud
more like "Yoda fixing" then "Yoda racing" these days!! 🤣🤣🤣✌
@@justlooking3417 🤣🤣🤣🤣 in my defence this is the first problem I’ve had haha
Hope nothing bad is down to any remapping or some thing
@@AndyphotographyHD I doubt it tbh
@@Yodaracing1 I'm just getting flashbacks from that astra 😂
@@justlooking3417 haha it’s not electrical so I’m good atm lol
Boost solenoid or map is the only other thing I'd imagine bro
@@mastersmods yea thinking same mate
A worn boost solenoid wouldnt cause a misfire. Two unrelated things there. Youd have erratic/spiky boost if it was a worn solenoid, like the boost would come in late then all at once, not ramp up to boost smoothly, but absolutely no misfiring behaviour.
Nice one mate
Miss fire most likely spark plugs if it's got mini coil pack's might be one off them mini one's plug in to big main coil pack chances are it.ll be that with induction kit's yer better with k&n panel filters ordered for that car exhaust system's for that car magnex full stainless Steel exhaust lifetime guarantee non resonated one's