Video may be a year old but still helping people today , considering doing my first build on these engines completely stripping down and rebuilding in the shed! Videos like this really help alot! Cheers ✌
Ive had my ST 9 years, was totally standard when I got it, the only problem Ive had was the alternator. Ive been running Dreamscience Turbo X+ for 5 years and no problems whatsoever. Although to be fair a lot of the standard stuff has been replaced with uprated stuff
I bought mine with the bonnet fucked. i just pulled the front part off and use a long screwdriver to twist the catch. 3yrs ago that was. 1st fix was steering pipes, i salvaged pipe work 30, 60 to fit with fluid. Then the dodgy front end wabble crept in, i was swapping wheels, banging discs to no evail. with the full service came a drive shaft 380 all in buzzin!! now its the eratic throttling carry on. right pedal unit en route 31 pun used, may try the swap my self 1st.
Very true that mate. In honesty there's a lot of things I could of added but I didn't want to make the video too long that it just bored people to death 😂
Not sure if mentionned, video just popped up in my feed, but crank case ventilation will always go woosh. Most people have it at about 80k km. Mine had it at 60k km. It will almost always break and make a very, very annoying hissing sound and sometimes force your st into safety, low turbo pressure mode.
Been looking after my son's ST for past 6 years and it's doing my head in..its running a stage 2 tune....4 bonnet locks...last one I fitted was like two sliding bars of plastic..works a dream been in 2 years and works great and cheap as chips...2 pairs of wishbones...clutch and DMF and whilst g/box was out pinon and diff fell down inside box... numerous ABS/Traction control faults...wheel bearings...drive shafts the list is endless...still chasing ABS/traction control issues...works fine for a while then comes on again...affects engine mapping...oil pressure gauge stops working and gearbox solenoid kicks in making it difficult to engage 5/6...changed wheel sensors..goes away for a while then back again showing as wheel sensor A...it's doing my head in not being able to locate what is tripping this fault...
@@mastersmodsthanks for reply...have done the obvious checks of the wiring for damage..connectors cleaned...ect...it's currently on my drive again with burst heater hose which has those stupid plastic twist connectors that go brittle....(am old school whats wrong with a bit of hose and two jubilee clips..😝😝)...when I was tracing the leak underneath found inner CV boot split and whilst removing driveshaft found wishbone ball joint worn..only renewed this 18 moths ago..when stripping the driveshaft found the tripod ball joint is also knackered..it's never ending.....am going to check condition of connector block on abs module for green mould or corrosion same with connectors on ECU to eliminate the obvious...have also brought a pair of front wheel sensors and will change them and see what happens after that..👍👍
@@mastersmods many thanks...👍👍Finished drive shaft and lower wishbone today..the Micky mouse heater hose connections are a nightmare to get them to lock in place... fitted a matched pair of front wheel sensors and disconnected the ECU to check condition of connection pins...found about 6 of them at one end covered in some form of brown staining...cleaned it with some carby cleaner and soft nylon brush...cleared fault codes management light now off but traction control and ESP lights still on...a quick road test and lights now off😄😄..vehicle running correctly and fingers crossed it stays that way...only time will tell...👍👍
Like the video, just a side note, you could argue that like your last comment about the driver and if they drive the car hard being the cause of the drive shafts failing is the same for the cylinder walls cracking through driving the car hard all the time 🤷🏼♂️
My argument to that would be this, my cars original owner from new, drove like an old lady and it wasn't until 142,500 miles that it went. Also if you watch GCM's video on getting his lock mod done, the guy doing it says "it's the ones that are garage queen's that tend to fail the most, the ones that are thrashed about that don't" for me, the liners cracking is a lot more common than drive shafts regardless of how the cars driven. Another way of looking at it would be, when you go look at an ST, what would you ask first - has it been block modded or how many drive shafts you been through? So again, for me anyways, liners trumps drive shafts
@@mastersmods yeh fair point I do remember watching gcm’s video now when he got his done now you mention it so I stand corrected 👍 Maybe I’ll thrash mine a bit more to be on the safe side then lol. Mines only done 83000 and still ok with no block mod. Revo stage 1. I did get the revised oil filter housing installed though with a genuine Volvo one. Definitely worth doing.
@@jonmarsh1653 I didn't say thrashing it would stop it happening, so don't say it's my fault if it does go 😂 I think these engines are a lottery tbh. My understanding of these engines, even before I bought my car, was it's a luck of the draw because of how they were made. Some had too much taken off the cylinder walls, meaning they'd be more susceptible to fail
My experience, 12 yrs owner , alternator went first, then wishbones ,oil diaphragm ,2 bonnet catches, 4 springs ,front wheel bearings, original driveshafts and clutch.59,000 miles, no block mod ,its talked about more than going, and last week someone drove in to the side of it and insurance probably going to right it off😒
i'm about to buy my ex wifes st found you video very informative thanks m8 always said i wouldn't buy her pile of crap but she gave me a deal too good to refuse but after watching your video i don't know if its worth buying it as it already had the bonnet catch problem for the second time.
@@mastersmods That was on the engine. I paid just over 8 for the car. I wish I could track it down to be honest and buy it back. The engine could withstand 1000bhp, I'd love to get it back and do a big turbo on it and put a new gearbox in with uprated bearings and quaife diff. It's nice to dream though eh 😂
Had new coils, plugs and new map sensor 2 months ago,cars been running great again , last week was driving home the car started loosing power and cutting out , with a message engine malfunction speed limited mode, completely out of the blue, turned it off waited 2 mins started back up got 100 yards and done the same, you experienced anything like this? No other warning lights or anything seemed to run fine apart from just cutting out
Yeah I did. Couldn't accelerate very much and sometimes would just cut out all together. Mine was the dash cluster. The solder dries out in the back of the cluster and doesn't make a solid connection. Try smacking the top of the dash next time it happens. Seems to help for a while if it is the cluster.
Got a EML light thats just popped up on the dash no idea what could be the reasoning to it any idea what it could be if anyone knows could you let me know ASAP cheers
I have a focus and I can not for the the life of me find a fault. I have a violent shudder through the steering which shakes the car. I have changed drive shafts (3rd party) but still brand new and still happening. I have changed the tyres for brand new ps5's, all wheels refurbed and balanced. Changed standard shocks and springs to coilovers to test and still the same. Wishbones changed, the same. Please help
Got to be honest I daily my ST on 125k miles I red line every gear everyday no block mod I smash the pants off it pop and bang the shit out of it they are bulletproof in my opinion only problem iv ever had is head lights not auto adjusting and just pointing at the floor, bit of rust on arch that’s it, see so many people crying about a block mod and driveshafts saying their crap...if your un happy with the car sell it and move on. Simples
@@mastersmods glade I watched your video then I double check buy taking oil filter cap off just after start up... Only makes that sound for about 3 mins 👌🎄
@@mastersmods Just wanne change the old one for a new part. I heard that you might need software. But i think it is for the old Volvo 2.5 engines around 2000/2003
Who doesn’t wanna give it full beans from low down?? I have those dream science motorsport S9 driveshafts and they’ve been fitted a year n now I’m suddenly getting vibration from the left hand side ffs
@@mastersmods no mate.. i have hardrace engine mounts gearbox mount and lower arms aswell n if i just drive steady it doesnt vibrate so much.. its possible but should find out at weekend 1 way or another
Pull the dipstick out, if it stops then the diaphragm is torn. If that is the case then you shouldn't be driving the car at all as it can cause more damage to the internals of the engine
@@mastersmods Ok i think its only alternator belt sound.. i take dipstick off and nothing hapens. and i open oil cap and no sound differences, so i think i dont have Oil diaphragm fault. And oil pressure is around 1/2 when warm engine and idling.
Crap car thats almost 20 years old and just sounds better than a normal ford focus. The people on the street wont know thats a £7,000 ST theyll think its just another £2,000 focus😂
Ford fucked up the original volvo engine! To be fair the st isnt a proper volvo engine! They went from a 83mm bore to a shit 81mm bore! Why fuck up a good engine ford!
Video may be a year old but still helping people today , considering doing my first build on these engines completely stripping down and rebuilding in the shed! Videos like this really help alot! Cheers ✌
That's exactly why I do the videos I do. I always say - if I can help one person then I'm happy. Good luck with it mate 👍
What a legend, this has helped me diagnose so many issues! Thanks!
Glad to of been able to help 🙏
Ive had my ST 9 years, was totally standard when I got it, the only problem Ive had was the alternator. Ive been running Dreamscience Turbo X+ for 5 years and no problems whatsoever. Although to be fair a lot of the standard stuff has been replaced with uprated stuff
Fair play mate, I think every car has their problems over time. If yours has been looked after then will prob treat you well
I bought mine with the bonnet fucked. i just pulled the front part off and use a long screwdriver to twist the catch. 3yrs ago that was. 1st fix was steering pipes, i salvaged pipe work 30, 60 to fit with fluid. Then the dodgy front end wabble crept in, i was swapping wheels, banging discs to no evail. with the full service came a drive shaft 380 all in buzzin!! now its the eratic throttling carry on. right pedal unit en route 31 pun used, may try the swap my self 1st.
Money pits ain't they
I'd add lacquer peel on EO cars especially. I couldn't find one without it. 🙁
Very true that mate. In honesty there's a lot of things I could of added but I didn't want to make the video too long that it just bored people to death 😂
Not sure if mentionned, video just popped up in my feed, but crank case ventilation will always go woosh. Most people have it at about 80k km. Mine had it at 60k km. It will almost always break and make a very, very annoying hissing sound and sometimes force your st into safety, low turbo pressure mode.
That's good info to know Tim nice one 👍🏼
Been looking after my son's ST for past 6 years and it's doing my head in..its running a stage 2 tune....4 bonnet locks...last one I fitted was like two sliding bars of plastic..works a dream been in 2 years and works great and cheap as chips...2 pairs of wishbones...clutch and DMF and whilst g/box was out pinon and diff fell down inside box... numerous ABS/Traction control faults...wheel bearings...drive shafts the list is endless...still chasing ABS/traction control issues...works fine for a while then comes on again...affects engine mapping...oil pressure gauge stops working and gearbox solenoid kicks in making it difficult to engage 5/6...changed wheel sensors..goes away for a while then back again showing as wheel sensor A...it's doing my head in not being able to locate what is tripping this fault...
Could it be a wiring issue?
@@mastersmodsthanks for reply...have done the obvious checks of the wiring for damage..connectors cleaned...ect...it's currently on my drive again with burst heater hose which has those stupid plastic twist connectors that go brittle....(am old school whats wrong with a bit of hose and two jubilee clips..😝😝)...when I was tracing the leak underneath found inner CV boot split and whilst removing driveshaft found wishbone ball joint worn..only renewed this 18 moths ago..when stripping the driveshaft found the tripod ball joint is also knackered..it's never ending.....am going to check condition of connector block on abs module for green mould or corrosion same with connectors on ECU to eliminate the obvious...have also brought a pair of front wheel sensors and will change them and see what happens after that..👍👍
@@richardmessenger9474 good luck mate, hope you find it and sort it 🙏
@@mastersmods many thanks...👍👍Finished drive shaft and lower wishbone today..the Micky mouse heater hose connections are a nightmare to get them to lock in place... fitted a matched pair of front wheel sensors and disconnected the ECU to check condition of connection pins...found about 6 of them at one end covered in some form of brown staining...cleaned it with some carby cleaner and soft nylon brush...cleared fault codes management light now off but traction control and ESP lights still on...a quick road test and lights now off😄😄..vehicle running correctly and fingers crossed it stays that way...only time will tell...👍👍
@@richardmessenger9474 that's brilliant news and well done for finding that!
Like the video, just a side note, you could argue that like your last comment about the driver and if they drive the car hard being the cause of the drive shafts failing is the same for the cylinder walls cracking through driving the car hard all the time 🤷🏼♂️
My argument to that would be this, my cars original owner from new, drove like an old lady and it wasn't until 142,500 miles that it went. Also if you watch GCM's video on getting his lock mod done, the guy doing it says "it's the ones that are garage queen's that tend to fail the most, the ones that are thrashed about that don't" for me, the liners cracking is a lot more common than drive shafts regardless of how the cars driven. Another way of looking at it would be, when you go look at an ST, what would you ask first - has it been block modded or how many drive shafts you been through? So again, for me anyways, liners trumps drive shafts
@@mastersmods yeh fair point I do remember watching gcm’s video now when he got his done now you mention it so I stand corrected 👍 Maybe I’ll thrash mine a bit more to be on the safe side then lol. Mines only done 83000 and still ok with no block mod. Revo stage 1. I did get the revised oil filter housing installed though with a genuine Volvo one. Definitely worth doing.
@@jonmarsh1653 I didn't say thrashing it would stop it happening, so don't say it's my fault if it does go 😂 I think these engines are a lottery tbh. My understanding of these engines, even before I bought my car, was it's a luck of the draw because of how they were made. Some had too much taken off the cylinder walls, meaning they'd be more susceptible to fail
This video is as informative as it's dull. Cheer up chap! More energy!
🤣🤣🤣 sorry mate that's just me, dull 😆 I'm not really one of these shouty loud types unfortunately
@@mastersmods mate don't mind me, be yourself, be happy! Love the ST 💪
My experience, 12 yrs owner , alternator went first, then wishbones ,oil diaphragm ,2 bonnet catches, 4 springs ,front wheel bearings, original driveshafts and clutch.59,000 miles, no block mod ,its talked about more than going, and last week someone drove in to the side of it and insurance probably going to right it off😒
Ah man that sucks 😟
Most of mine were based off of personal experience and what I found in general that people talk about on the fb groups
@@mastersmods update car is now being repaired 😎
@@razerbaz ah yes love that!
i'm about to buy my ex wifes st found you video very informative thanks m8 always said i wouldn't buy her pile of crap but she gave me a deal too good to refuse but after watching your video i don't know if its worth buying it as it already had the bonnet catch problem for the second time.
All comes down to price, mods and service history really. If you know the car then it's going to be better than buying from the unknown
Imtereatsing info about the dash, hope that’s one problem I don’t suffer, at least I now no where to get it sorted if needs be.
Thanks👊🏻
At first I didn't think the problems I was having could be sorted by some soldering problems in the dash clocks, but I was happily wrong.
It is very simple fix any one can do on their own check my insta post you can see
instagram.com/p/CF5Yay1nJhu/?igshid=1wapn2wl5bu15
@@J_I_Was nice one
@@mastersmods good videos m8 I'm going through some 👍
@@J_I_Was thank you 🙏 let me know what you think on any of them 👍🏼
Spent around 11 grand on mine and sold it a couple of years ago. Now I'm after another one 🤣
11k, ouch. I'd personally hate to sink that much into a build but hey if you got it, spend it cuz you can't take it with you haha
@@mastersmods That was on the engine. I paid just over 8 for the car. I wish I could track it down to be honest and buy it back. The engine could withstand 1000bhp, I'd love to get it back and do a big turbo on it and put a new gearbox in with uprated bearings and quaife diff. It's nice to dream though eh 😂
8 years, all standard, was a 2nd hand.
2 turbo repairs
Rear wheel bearings
CV joints
Bonnet catch
how much did the turbo repairs cost you?
Need a video of map sensor and symptoms lol
th-cam.com/video/wEgfecMK_dg/w-d-xo.html
great advice and well said about the drive shafts bud
Ha ha cheers pal
Good vid mate great advice 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you mate, hopefully others think the same 😏
My cluster went yesterday 🤣 absolute pain in the arse
I feel ya pain pal. Its a nightmare when they go 😭
Had new coils, plugs and new map sensor 2 months ago,cars been running great again , last week was driving home the car started loosing power and cutting out , with a message engine malfunction speed limited mode, completely out of the blue, turned it off waited 2 mins started back up got 100 yards and done the same, you experienced anything like this? No other warning lights or anything seemed to run fine apart from just cutting out
Yeah I did. Couldn't accelerate very much and sometimes would just cut out all together. Mine was the dash cluster. The solder dries out in the back of the cluster and doesn't make a solid connection. Try smacking the top of the dash next time it happens. Seems to help for a while if it is the cluster.
@@mastersmods thank you mate really appreciate it
@@mastersmods it was woth my mates garage didn't look at it for a day went completely dead so I'll let him know this too thank you
@@VELCRO666 no problem buddy, hope you get it sorted 👍🏼
nice one bud.
Got a EML light thats just popped up on the dash no idea what could be the reasoning to it any idea what it could be if anyone knows could you let me know ASAP cheers
Have you got access to a code reader? Could be anything
I have a focus and I can not for the the life of me find a fault. I have a violent shudder through the steering which shakes the car. I have changed drive shafts (3rd party) but still brand new and still happening. I have changed the tyres for brand new ps5's, all wheels refurbed and balanced. Changed standard shocks and springs to coilovers to test and still the same. Wishbones changed, the same. Please help
@@Liam-iu8ti could still be driveshafts as they're terrible for the ST's if I remember rightly
Got to be honest I daily my ST on 125k miles I red line every gear everyday no block mod I smash the pants off it pop and bang the shit out of it they are bulletproof in my opinion only problem iv ever had is head lights not auto adjusting and just pointing at the floor, bit of rust on arch that’s it, see so many people crying about a block mod and driveshafts saying their crap...if your un happy with the car sell it and move on. Simples
Bloody good video that!
Thanks 👍🏼
Great video my oil filter housing is making a noise on start up then go's away... Dose this cose engine damage?
Thank you. It will do if you carry on using the car mate yeah
@@mastersmods glade I watched your video then I double check buy taking oil filter cap off just after start up... Only makes that sound for about 3 mins 👌🎄
@@djbrad1000 hmm, might not be the oil filter housing then mate
Yeah it's NOT done some more digging and it's just a belt whinny or something on start up. So all good for now thanks for replys
@@djbrad1000 that's good news mate 👌🏼👏🏼
Do you have the diagram for the boost pipes
I don't mate I'm afraid, Google is your best option
Hi bud my brother is having a problem with is one it is in limp mode and the abs light is on do u know what it could be?
Is the engine management light on?
@@mastersmods no it is not I don’t think I will check with him when he back
@williamfilms4423 I'd say it's likely to be a sensor. MAF, MAP or boost solenoid. At the same time, I'm no mechanic lol
Fantastic video 👍
Thanks dude
I have a question.
When i change the throttlebody, do is need new software. Or is it self learning?
If upgrading to RS throttle body then I think it does need mapping in
@@mastersmods
Just wanne change the old one for a new part.
I heard that you might need software. But i think it is for the old Volvo 2.5 engines around 2000/2003
@@stylo8133 should be fine then mate
@@mastersmods thanks
Friend I have a problem with the turbo and I think it's the solenoid can you pass me some mail to send you a video for you to see
Please
I'm on Instagram, link in the description
Who doesn’t wanna give it full beans from low down??
I have those dream science motorsport S9 driveshafts and they’ve been fitted a year n now I’m suddenly getting vibration from the left hand side ffs
That's not good is it pal, could it be something simpler like tracking out or tyres?
@@mastersmods no mate.. i have hardrace engine mounts gearbox mount and lower arms aswell n if i just drive steady it doesnt vibrate so much.. its possible but should find out at weekend 1 way or another
@@mastersmods tyres are a month old ps4s
@@davecozzie1 defo points towards the shafts then 🙈
@@mastersmods i wished it was tyres 😂😂👍
I need help with vac lines
What you need help with dude?
Can broken Oil diaphragm broke something else if is faulty?
i hear whining noise when idle
Pull the dipstick out, if it stops then the diaphragm is torn. If that is the case then you shouldn't be driving the car at all as it can cause more damage to the internals of the engine
i have to try that, i got same whining noise. Thx for info
@@mastersmods Ok i think its only alternator belt sound.. i take dipstick off and nothing hapens. and i open oil cap and no sound differences, so i think i dont have Oil diaphragm fault. And oil pressure is around 1/2 when warm engine and idling.
@@gg7335 should sit between the 1/4 and the 1/2 glad its not the diaphragm tho
Had a st remapped biggest bag of shit going so many problems with it I’ll never buy a ford again
😂
My number one would be it’s a Ford lol 😂
Hahaha yeah should of started with that really shouldn't I 😂
You missed the esp system fault.. that’s the most annoying one
Tbh mate I missed a lot off but I only remembered them after I'd posted
Crap car thats almost 20 years old and just sounds better than a normal ford focus. The people on the street wont know thats a £7,000 ST theyll think its just another £2,000 focus😂
Ford fucked up the original volvo engine! To be fair the st isnt a proper volvo engine! They went from a 83mm bore to a shit 81mm bore! Why fuck up a good engine ford!