Commented on your other video. I did, in fact, grenade the inner bearing. Turns out I could've pressed out the hub pretty easily and then tapped the bearing out in a vise.
if its the case needle bearings, there are a few different ways to get them out, it depends on the model of supercharger. Some you can tap a small hole, and make a tool (a hollowed out bolt with a grease zerk on top of it) and force the bearings out with pressure. The other method is using a blind hole bearing puller, where the puller attaches to a slide hammer and you pop em out that way.
Thanks! I would suggest that with the snout off, to do, or have the the shaft pressed back in all the way. Main problems that can happen are the pulley will grind away at the aluminum snout, or the seal behind the pulley there. Your belt will also be tracking wrong. The only way I have seen this happen is from somebody switching out the supercharger pulley with the wrong puller/install tool, and they try and finish with a hammer. Yes, I rebuild these for people all the time.
changing them depends on the model of SC. Some you can force out with a special tool you can make yourself, or you can use a blind hole bearing puller tool. WHEN you need to change them can depend...most the time they get replaced anyway since were in there rebuilding it all. I would say just took for a lot of play in them. I use Redline CV-2 grease in those bearings when I rebuild them, and reuse the bearings.
Glad you liked it and hope it helps explain things for you better. The pulley should not be touching the seal, or the aluminum of the snout on or off the of the supercharger. The pulley should be pressed on EVEN, and flush with the end of the snout shaft. If that is, then the shaft is in/or pressed in too far. See part 2 of the video segment.
side by side play might refer to "slop" in the rotors. Less is better, but some is allowed for heat expansion. You will see damage/scuffing on the edge of the rotors if you have a LOT of play/slop, or hear the chattering when its running. This can be bad bearings behind the rotor drive gears, or bad worn gears themselves. Think of them being worn, and out of time. End play might refer to the rotor gap of the rotors to the aluminum body, bearing wear at either end would cause a great amount.
Thanks! That's what I was trying to achieve with the video, bring more do-it-yourself guys out into doing the service yourself. The case needle bearings have been requested by several others. I think I can do a little video up to show a few different ways to remove them. Give me some time, I'll get that worked in.
great video i have a eaton m62 and after watching u do it i think i can handle it loved the commentary step by step my question is how do u get the needle bearings out a video would be a great help. great jobs thanks!
The snout used in the video is from a Eaton GenV M90 supercharger. Its from the 2004+ models with the 3800. 1996-2003 used the GenIII M90, same size unit, similar in some aspects, but different configuration. Normally when you have the "rattle" noise on a genIII its 9 times out of 10 the coupler inside is bad. Its a cheep fix you can do yourself. Its a $30.00 part. I can message you the link since I can't add it in the comment section.
I have several units disassembled, so I have springs and various other parts loose too, but if I sold one to you, I would be short for a snout down the road. Magnuson would be your best bet. I'll message you my hook up there.
@snipersalliance I believe so. I helped install a supercharger kit on a guys FJ a few years back, the shouts look similar, though we didn't have his apart.
Yes, and and all questions are welcome. Rotor bearings, such as the bearings behind the rotor drive gears, or the needle bearings down inside the case? If its the bearings behind the gears you usually have to heat up the gears a little and pull them off vs. pressing the shaft out of them cause the body they go through is cheep pot tin aluminum, it doesn't take kind to "work" sometimes.
Hey thanks for the video! Is this the same supercharger used on a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP? The snout housing looks the same from the outside as far as I can tell. I have a nasty grinding noise which sounds like its coming from the bearing behind the pulley. Can you point me to a good rebuild kit? And is it safe to run the car with the supercharger belt removed?
I have a neuspeed supercharger/Magnuson, for a mk3 be. It has a pulley with a woodruff key, when I toghten the bolt for the pulley down on the shaft it get real hard to spin, when I loosen it, it spins alot easier. Did the shaft somehow get pressed too far into the snout. Pulley when tightened hits the seal.
After you have the SC shaft out, what size pipe is it that you using please ?. PS: just about to repair/service my M90 on my VY L67, as its got a sad front bearing, and after the service kit goes in, It will be humming :) well I hope so.
I like how you did this video! do you still do snout rebuilds? I have an m90 from a 98 Riviera that needs a new seal and coupler, I would like to have the bearings done as well and go a step smaller than stock on the pulley. please msg me if this is something you'd consider.
I looked at the oil in the sc on my 2004 impala I recently bought and the oil has shavings in it (looks like silver glitter) Are the rotor bearings in the same oil bath as the snout bearings? Or are they sealed like the needle bearings on the other end?
My supercharger too noisy. Like more than it's supposed to. Sounds like a lawn mower or cat. Could it be the nose sprout bearing or the ones in the back?
Its not Teflon, Eaton has never used Teflon in their superchargers. The coating is simply a abradable coating (Wikipedia it) GenIII M90's like used in the 1996-2003 models didn't have good rotor prep for the coating to bond securely. 2004+ models with the new design got better prep, and a new coating that will "run in" on it self after the first few minutes of run time. Rotor coating flaking off on the GenIII's are common. It wont work as efferent, but you wont notice a huge difference.
Hello, It seems as though you get a few rebuilds to do, My question is if you know where I can acquire a nose bearing spring for m62? Not sure there was one when I disassembled it, too many hands in the process... either way I cannot find it. Magnuson whats to charge me a full rebuild just to get the spring for it. any help is greatly appreciated.
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Cheers mate thanks for upload, rebuilt my M90 snout today your video helped my out, easy to follow....Thankyou
Commented on your other video. I did, in fact, grenade the inner bearing. Turns out I could've pressed out the hub pretty easily and then tapped the bearing out in a vise.
if its the case needle bearings, there are a few different ways to get them out, it depends on the model of supercharger. Some you can tap a small hole, and make a tool (a hollowed out bolt with a grease zerk on top of it) and force the bearings out with pressure. The other method is using a blind hole bearing puller, where the puller attaches to a slide hammer and you pop em out that way.
Thanks! I would suggest that with the snout off, to do, or have the the shaft pressed back in all the way. Main problems that can happen are the pulley will grind away at the aluminum snout, or the seal behind the pulley there. Your belt will also be tracking wrong. The only way I have seen this happen is from somebody switching out the supercharger pulley with the wrong puller/install tool, and they try and finish with a hammer. Yes, I rebuild these for people all the time.
The arbor press is just a 12 ton. Glad you like the video, and hope you can put it to good use for yourself. Happiness is out in the garage working.
Handy to have in the garage for sure. LOTS more you can do with one. Wouldn't think so till one is sitting there.
changing them depends on the model of SC. Some you can force out with a special tool you can make yourself, or you can use a blind hole bearing puller tool. WHEN you need to change them can depend...most the time they get replaced anyway since were in there rebuilding it all. I would say just took for a lot of play in them. I use Redline CV-2 grease in those bearings when I rebuild them, and reuse the bearings.
Glad you liked it and hope it helps explain things for you better. The pulley should not be touching the seal, or the aluminum of the snout on or off the of the supercharger. The pulley should be pressed on EVEN, and flush with the end of the snout shaft. If that is, then the shaft is in/or pressed in too far. See part 2 of the video segment.
side by side play might refer to "slop" in the rotors. Less is better, but some is allowed for heat expansion. You will see damage/scuffing on the edge of the rotors if you have a LOT of play/slop, or hear the chattering when its running. This can be bad bearings behind the rotor drive gears, or bad worn gears themselves. Think of them being worn, and out of time. End play might refer to the rotor gap of the rotors to the aluminum body, bearing wear at either end would cause a great amount.
Thanks! That's what I was trying to achieve with the video, bring more do-it-yourself guys out into doing the service yourself. The case needle bearings have been requested by several others. I think I can do a little video up to show a few different ways to remove them. Give me some time, I'll get that worked in.
4:05-the sound my cat makes when he doesn't get what he wants....day in.... day out... : D
great video i have a eaton m62 and after watching u do it i think i can handle it loved the commentary step by step my question is how do u get the needle bearings out a video would be a great help. great jobs thanks!
The snout used in the video is from a Eaton GenV M90 supercharger. Its from the 2004+ models with the 3800. 1996-2003 used the GenIII M90, same size unit, similar in some aspects, but different configuration. Normally when you have the "rattle" noise on a genIII its 9 times out of 10 the coupler inside is bad. Its a cheep fix you can do yourself. Its a $30.00 part. I can message you the link since I can't add it in the comment section.
I have several units disassembled, so I have springs and various other parts loose too, but if I sold one to you, I would be short for a snout down the road. Magnuson would be your best bet. I'll message you my hook up there.
@snipersalliance I believe so. I helped install a supercharger kit on a guys FJ a few years back, the shouts look similar, though we didn't have his apart.
Yes, and and all questions are welcome.
Rotor bearings, such as the bearings behind the rotor drive gears, or the needle bearings down inside the case?
If its the bearings behind the gears you usually have to heat up the gears a little and pull them off vs. pressing the shaft out of them cause the body they go through is cheep pot tin aluminum, it doesn't take kind to "work" sometimes.
Hey thanks for the video! Is this the same supercharger used on a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP? The snout housing looks the same from the outside as far as I can tell. I have a nasty grinding noise which sounds like its coming from the bearing behind the pulley. Can you point me to a good rebuild kit? And is it safe to run the car with the supercharger belt removed?
Big Thank you back at-cha! hope it helps the DIY-er.
I am trying to rebuild the about of my m62 is a 6 tom hydraulic press good enough for the job?
I have a neuspeed supercharger/Magnuson, for a mk3 be. It has a pulley with a woodruff key, when I toghten the bolt for the pulley down on the shaft it get real hard to spin, when I loosen it, it spins alot easier. Did the shaft somehow get pressed too far into the snout. Pulley when tightened hits the seal.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. Sub'd!
After you have the SC shaft out, what size pipe is it that you using please ?. PS: just about to repair/service my M90 on my VY L67, as its got a sad front bearing, and after the service kit goes in, It will be humming :) well I hope so.
Whats the steel tube specs used at the end?
hi great video , i have a supercharger from ford thunderbird 3.8 the repair is the same?.
Great video! Big thank you!
I like how you did this video! do you still do snout rebuilds? I have an m90 from a 98 Riviera that needs a new seal and coupler, I would like to have the bearings done as well and go a step smaller than stock on the pulley. please msg me if this is something you'd consider.
got your message and replied. Let me know if I can be of any help to you. We can get it figured out one way or another.
I looked at the oil in the sc on my 2004 impala I recently bought and the oil has shavings in it (looks like silver glitter) Are the rotor bearings in the same oil bath as the snout bearings? Or are they sealed like the needle bearings on the other end?
My supercharger too noisy. Like more than it's supposed to. Sounds like a lawn mower or cat.
Could it be the nose sprout bearing or the ones in the back?
Its not Teflon, Eaton has never used Teflon in their superchargers. The coating is simply a abradable coating (Wikipedia it) GenIII M90's like used in the 1996-2003 models didn't have good rotor prep for the coating to bond securely. 2004+ models with the new design got better prep, and a new coating that will "run in" on it self after the first few minutes of run time. Rotor coating flaking off on the GenIII's are common. It wont work as efferent, but you wont notice a huge difference.
Hello, It seems as though you get a few rebuilds to do, My question is if you know where I can acquire a nose bearing spring for m62? Not sure there was one when I disassembled it, too many hands in the process... either way I cannot find it. Magnuson whats to charge me a full rebuild just to get the spring for it. any help is greatly appreciated.
@GR8racingfool i have that rattleing noise at idle...do u think it could be the coupler??
What do you think??
Welcome! :)
Thanks
Do you charge to do this? What is the name of your shop?
Most likely that's what the problem is. Just a $29.00 part to fix it.
You still do this?
can you rebuild my gen v snout. ill ship to you.
Would this be very similar for TRD 1st generation Supercharger snout? 3.4v on a tacoma.
Must get hydraulic press!!
...Think about what??
Sorry, i PMed you.