Chris, really enjoyed your video. Reminds me of my 33 years working on cars. Looks like it was a lovely day in the north west. In the past, I've put the nut back on so it's flush then used a bit of wood and a big hammer rather than a punch to get that separation. Also, if you're under the car and hitting anything, or even next to the car and hitting anything, wear eye protection - that bit of rust or shard of metal WILL eventually find your eye, trust me on that.
Very helpful thanks for taking the time to show us. I recently changed a CV Joint on my mondeo and had the same problem getting the bottom ball joint off, it was difficult finding a place to get enough leverage and so the ball joint kept locking up on the stub where the bolt locks it into place. In the end I found a small piece of chain just large enough to put a 5mm bolt through the links and wrapped it around the bottom wishbone and used that loop to put a bar through and lever against the sub frame. The increased speed at which I could lever the arm down allowed the joint to slide apart without locking up. One push and the thing came apart. Several hours of trying to use pry bars very slow and didn't get anywhere. I hope this helps someone. The chain I found was lighting chain the sort that holds up strip lighting but a piece if rope would have worked fine as well.
Good video. I have to do this on a 1996 Mazda familia today. I replaced the boot a few years ago but the joint is now clicking and it's nice having a video to help remind me how it comes apart.
ugh, that was difficult. I wasn't able to tap the cv joint off the shaft with it on the car so I thought I'd try lever the inner cv joint out and remove the whole axle like some other vids show. But to do that I had to remove the lower engine mount frame thing to gain enough access. Turned out the two front bolts were rusted tight, I ended up shearing one off and gave up on that plan and just removed the inner cv boot and disassembled the inner cv joint to remove the shaft. The cv joint came off fairly easy with it off the car, I just couldn't get enough of a swing with it in place. The C clip is a pain to get in the groove when reassembling. At least it's all back together now. But now I have to figure out what to do about the sheared off bolt!
Well done Chris getting another grand job done..I have replaced CV joints before and they can be a right pain to get off..Glad it went pretty well for you.
+Steve Jones thanks, yeah I done my uncle's a few months back and it was held on by a stupid clip that we couldn't work out how to Remove. Like some sort of external sirclip but without any way of gripping it. It took hours. Where as mine was literally all that was in the video, 3 or 4 taps and it came off no problem.
My mk2 focus cv joint is nackered and was told it was a nightmare to change. U knocked urs off in 2 secs. Wtf 😂😂😂😂 not dreading it as much now. The genius with the hammer wins the day i guess⚒️😂
Hahaha don't believe everything you see on the Internet. I mean I did do it that easy however I think there was other factors involved too. If you have access to a bench vice it is easy vecause you can claim the shift in the vice while you that the back of the cv joint off. I dont knkw why mine came off so easy.
The best tip anyone can take from this, is to splay the hub bolt fixing with a wedge to allow the wishbone to slide out and in again without too much hassle.
Bro thanks a lot dor the video, im on my way to do the same on my fiat punto mk2 and juat like you, I only have common house tools and it was great you can still do it! Well done
Hi can I pls ask a question sir, my ford figo leftern drive shaft on the gear box doesnt have treads to connect with cv joint...is it possible if it fell inside the gearbox?
I have a Honda Civic 1997 (Europe market). The Haynes manual for that car says the cv joint can't be removed from the shaft, but shopping online for parts I find kits containing the joint with no shaft. Which one is true?
How much time have you got. I have no idea about the question you asked. But if your in no rush you could remove the shift and have a look your self. If you can then order the part. If not order the whole drives haft. I would say it has had to have been put together so it probably can be taken apart. However in reality if they have used a circlip near the end of the drive shift the opens out properly once its located then you'd never get the cv joint off without damaging things. It all depends on how long you can do without the car. If it comes off good. But if not and you bugger it all up its no big deal it needed doing anyway so just order the whole thing.
Provided that they're still supple enough, you can just flip the cv boot inside out over the shaft. I've done it when I had to take a load of rust of the cv joint bodies that was stopping them from sealing properly.
7:33 I have the same kind of play on mine and it started to make some noise too, especially when turning and on bumps. On acceleration I have lots of vibration. I have a question for you but I have to make a premise first. I hear some lound knocking noises when I turn my steering wheel rapidly right and left. I replaced the whole front suspension (control arms, stabiliser links, shocks, inner and outer tie rods) but the knock is still here. I think that's caused by that play (7:33) inside the joint. The question is: did you have that noise?
It could be. Although it could also potentially be the engine mounts. I have seen instances where a worn engine mount can seem like a steering or suspension issue. If the cv joint was making as much noise as I think your describing it would be about to come apart and making quite obvious noises over bumps and in turns.
@@ChrisManChannel all three engine mounts are new because the one on the left was completely shot (and making noises) the bottom one was about to come apart and the gearbox mount was good but I did prefer to replace it. Everything that could make that knocking noise has been replaced, except those CV joints (both are absolutely knackered). And yes, I think they are close to come apart. The only thing that worries me is that stupid hub nut and the joint to be rusted in place. As I saw everything seems to be quite straightforward and relatively easy. Gotta replace those things, they are also quite cheap. Did you reckon the brand of yours?
I cant remember the brand. But you can soak everything in penetrating fluid for a few days. Just apply it 2 or 3 times a day to all the fasteners being careful not to get any on the brakes. It's a proper pain in the arse I know but it should make it alot easyer to remove the ball joint bolt if that hadnt been replaced in a while. You can do the same with the hub not by removing the dust cover. If it looks clean and not really rusted I wouldn't bother it should come right off but if its rusty just clean the exposed threads well and keep spraying penetrating oil on it. After all if the joint is scized in the hub a few good snacks with a hammer should get it out. And if your changing it it doesnt matter about buffering up the threads Hope that helps
@@ChrisManChannel the ball joint is new so it won't be an issue. The nut itself as well the threads are rusted, and I'm going to need some air tools (I think a friend can lend one) and for the joint I'll just use my dad's impact drill, vibration and penetrating oil should do the trick. Wish me luck. Thanks for the help, I'm sure it'll be very useful. Bye mate! Greets from Italy!
Just an observation for what it's worth....If you don't 'strangle' the hammer the shaft would move after two or three hits. The lower you grip a hammer on it's handle the more power it exerts on the object being struck. Still enjoyed the video, thanks.
any idea why I've grease showing in between the rubber gator and were it attaches to wheel ? bearing is OK. could it have just come loose and grease from drive shaft has leaked out?
It could either be that or the boot has split. Either way you should get it looked at soon. If its left it could cause the cv joint to fail if bits or water gets into it.
@@ChrisManChannel Its pulled back a bit but otherwise isn't damaged. could you get away with reattaching, putting on cable tie?? trying to get an old bird thru MOT and my mechanic is booked up. gave whole wheel well deep clean as it had specks of grease. will probably need regreased
I have seen it happen. Unless I'm confusing what you mean. But yeah I've seen them split right half in two if there left for long enough and I've seen ones that have slipped off the cv joint
@@ChrisManChannel im guessing its more likely to have slipped off. thanks a bunch for clarifying, i'll fire a cable round it and hope it holds. MOT man will probably spot grease remnants but i've went thru CV joint checklist and haven't any of the symptoms. cheers again
Lucky you. I tried this today on my 97 Camry, could not get it off. The replacement has a split ring so I thought the one on the axle too would come off like yours. Should I take steroids?
I couldn't tell you. The only way to know would be to compare part numbers and I dont have access to that really. It comes down to the gear box really I dont know if they're all the same or not
Should be good to go it's not under any tension really once its jacked up. Everything can be removed then. It might drop an inch or so if you disconnect the lower ball joint but that's it.
It could be I'm not too sure. The only way really to know is take the boot off and clean the Greece out and look for the clip if there is t one there then its lucky a spring clip. Apart from the the process is exactly the same
Not a clue sorry mate. However its probably the same with a few minor differences like how the joint is held onto the drives shift and things like that. If your confidant at working on things like suspension and ball joints and stuff like that it's probably a simple but pain in the arse job to do. Just remember to drain the gear box if your removing the drives shaft completley out the box or it will just leak all over the floor. If you need any other help ill do my best to help but I never done any work on that van. It was a mobility van and wasn't mine so there's there's few things I'm mot sure on like axel nut size and all that stuff.
Your outer CV joint is most likely not going to come off as easily as this guy in the video, at least mine didn't. The inner cv joint was also just rusted into the transmission, so I ended up loosening the inner cv axle boot, then I could slide out the whole cv axle. Once I held the axle up vertically in my hand, I could easily tap the outer cv joint off by hammering it a couple of times. You could also try Steven Halas tip using a rope/chain. You could also try going underneath the car to get enough leverage when hammering, but I didn't try that.
He has a point. I have seen some CV joints smash to pieces trying to get them off. When I done my truck they don't have sir clips holding the together and I found holding the axel tight in my hand and hitting the back of the CV joint downwards with a dead blow hammer worked pretty well.
Imagine a piece of rope tied loosely around the bottom wishbone near the ball joint you are trying to get out of the hub. The ball joint is retained by a bolt that jams that pin from the ball joint so remove the bolt. I couldn't get enough leverage to slide the wishbone down far anought to get the pin out and then the pin jammed in place. Jack up the car high enough to give yourself plenty of downward movement then that loose rope hanging down will allow you to slide either a piece of wood or pipe in the gap then push it in far enough to let it rest on the sub frame wherever you can so when you push down really firm and fast you can push that pin out of the hub. If you don't give it all the power you have it won't come out cleanly and just jam in place. So the rope is to give you a place to pull that arm down because I couldn't find a place to lever against. I used a chain but a rope will do just as good. Hope that helps. Regards Steve
@@stevenhales1987 Hmm interesting, I don't get it totally yet, I ended up just loosening the inner cv joint boot, sliding the cv axle out, and hammering the outer joint out.
All I can add is getting that bottom ball joint off the hub and already removed the driveshaft nut allows you to swing the whole hub towards you and tapping the end of the shaft with a copper hammer the driveshaft slides off the splines then you can get the driveshaft off the car. By the way I'm not a motor mechanic just a DIY for myself.
I can't get my new CV joint to go past the split ring when reinstalling. I've tried OEM split ring and the new split ring is also giving same results. Tried to force it further onto the shaft with a hammer but it still won't go
If my cv came off that easy I would feel like a super hero. I have been walking it was a 10lbs hammer for half an hour, just cuz I put the wrong boot on and had to get off the new CV
In this video I show you how I change a CV joint on a drive shaft. Depending on the type of car you have the CV join and drive shaft can be attached in a number of different ways. It can be a sir clip, a sir clip style ring which is an absolute pain to remove. Or a simple split ring like here that just needs a good tap to release the CV joint from the drive shaft. I strongly suggest finding out how they attach before you start whacking away with a hammer possibly causing more damage to other components. All in all it is a pretty strait forward thing to change. Albeit quite messy and greasy at times. But as you will see after removing the wheel there's only two nuts to remove in order to free the CV joint from the hub. Please enjoy this video and remember to like, share and subscribe. Plus any questions fire away in the comments section.
I dont sorry. But I do know some of them shared the same gear box that I had in the fiesta. However that's doesnt mean that the drive shaft is the same. I suppose the easiest but not fool proof way to check is buy one and if it does have a split ring then one should come with new new part. But it's not a guarantee new parts always come with different things depending on supplier. The only other way to tell is by cleaning out the grease from the old one and inspect it before you try and take it off. Either that or download the factory service manual or buy a Haynes manual that is specific for that type of car because some of them only cover certain models age or engine types. Hope that helps you out a little.
+joe wright the drive shaft nut was a 32mm and the torques but was a t50. But it's not been of in a while you may need a new nut and bolt. Hatch my video on how to remove a scized bolt and you'll see what I mean.
Azahar Official Channel it all depends on the car. how it is held together and how much rust there is the contend with. Not to mention how competent or confidant you are. But if you havnt done it before and have a good idea how to do it and what your doing I would say set aside a day. If you start I the morning might only take an hour or 2. Bit if things don't go your way it might take a lot longer. I think it took me 2 hours or so but my cv joint came off realy easy. On my uncles astra it took us several hours to take the cv joint off the drive shaft. Hope that helps
+Dean Chapman its not the best thing. But some cv boot kits have cable ties in them. It shouldnt be too much of a problem on standard cars that are driven around town. But on an off road or performance vehicle it probably wouldn't hold up too well.
Chris, really enjoyed your video. Reminds me of my 33 years working on cars. Looks like it was a lovely day in the north west. In the past, I've put the nut back on so it's flush then used a bit of wood and a big hammer rather than a punch to get that separation. Also, if you're under the car and hitting anything, or even next to the car and hitting anything, wear eye protection - that bit of rust or shard of metal WILL eventually find your eye, trust me on that.
Nice one. No crappy music just got on with it and commentary as you go. Thanks for a great 'how to' video.
Agreed! Its shit when they add annoying music. This guy is straight to the point.
Thanks Chris, saved me garage prices. I'll DIY, thought i'd have to do the shaft as well.
Great job man. You did it on the car. Most of the TH-cam videos shows it been done using a bench vice.
Very helpful thanks for taking the time to show us. I recently changed a CV Joint on my mondeo and had the same problem getting the bottom ball joint off, it was difficult finding a place to get enough leverage and so the ball joint kept locking up on the stub where the bolt locks it into place. In the end I found a small piece of chain just large enough to put a 5mm bolt through the links and wrapped it around the bottom wishbone and used that loop to put a bar through and lever against the sub frame. The increased speed at which I could lever the arm down allowed the joint to slide apart without locking up. One push and the thing came apart. Several hours of trying to use pry bars very slow and didn't get anywhere. I hope this helps someone. The chain I found was lighting chain the sort that holds up strip lighting but a piece if rope would have worked fine as well.
I can't get my joint off, but I can't exactly imagine what you did. Can you draw it??
Thanks for explanation just can't picture it
just take it to a garage for the sake of 40 quid and stop buggering about
Finally found a video where it’s just the cv joint!! Thanks mate
This is one of the best Videos with plenty of spoken advice on the way to fix the drive shaft end
Good video. I have to do this on a 1996 Mazda familia today. I replaced the boot a few years ago but the joint is now clicking and it's nice having a video to help remind me how it comes apart.
ugh, that was difficult. I wasn't able to tap the cv joint off the shaft with it on the car so I thought I'd try lever the inner cv joint out and remove the whole axle like some other vids show. But to do that I had to remove the lower engine mount frame thing to gain enough access. Turned out the two front bolts were rusted tight, I ended up shearing one off and gave up on that plan and just removed the inner cv boot and disassembled the inner cv joint to remove the shaft. The cv joint came off fairly easy with it off the car, I just couldn't get enough of a swing with it in place. The C clip is a pain to get in the groove when reassembling. At least it's all back together now. But now I have to figure out what to do about the sheared off bolt!
Well done Chris getting another grand job done..I have replaced CV joints before and they can be a right pain to get off..Glad it went pretty well for you.
+Steve Jones thanks, yeah I done my uncle's a few months back and it was held on by a stupid clip that we couldn't work out how to Remove. Like some sort of external sirclip but without any way of gripping it. It took hours. Where as mine was literally all that was in the video, 3 or 4 taps and it came off no problem.
Well done it seems all other Bids just show changing the whole shaft
Yeah man, true that
Nice video mate , never had any luck holding on CV boots with cable ties myself
Well done thankyou you made it look so easy and explained it very professionaly...
Great job Chris, straight to it, no muckin around with music...................thanks man
Thanks for the help. My first time doing CV joints on a Ford 121.
Useful and good camera work. Thanks for posting Chris. 👏
Gonna tackle this on Saturday, thanks for the video. Hopefully it goes as well as this did
a very practical demonstration with experienced tips, thank you
Excellent mate you done the job quick and straightforward with no fuss perfect!
Thank you so much , my fiesta needs doing , I wonder if now I can do mine and save me money ..
Salute Chris I really enjoyed..
New subscriber from the UK. Found your channel from Leon's (Bodgit and Leggit) Great stuff showing what us DIY mechanics do lol
Well explained. Good camera angles. Well done sir 👍. New sub.
Awesome , thank you …. About to take this job on on the weekend 💪👌
Thank's man. Even though we couldn't see you fit it back on. Great vid anyway
My mk2 focus cv joint is nackered and was told it was a nightmare to change. U knocked urs off in 2 secs. Wtf 😂😂😂😂 not dreading it as much now. The genius with the hammer wins the day i guess⚒️😂
Hahaha don't believe everything you see on the Internet. I mean I did do it that easy however I think there was other factors involved too. If you have access to a bench vice it is easy vecause you can claim the shift in the vice while you that the back of the cv joint off. I dont knkw why mine came off so easy.
The best tip anyone can take from this, is to splay the hub bolt fixing with a wedge to allow the wishbone to slide out and in again without too much hassle.
Bro thanks a lot dor the video, im on my way to do the same on my fiat punto mk2 and juat like you, I only have common house tools and it was great you can still do it! Well done
Nice! Mine just broke, big time. This should help a lot! Thank you! 🙏🏻👏🏻
Excellent. Treat yourself to a zip tie tool : cheap, one handed, makes it really tight, greasy hands no problem, cuts off perfectly.
Thank you Chris 😊
Hi can I pls ask a question sir, my ford figo leftern drive shaft on the gear box doesnt have treads to connect with cv joint...is it possible if it fell inside the gearbox?
im getting a thudding noise when im turning right as if ive a flat tyre could that be the cv joint has gone
Well here in california, they just right away included to change everything. Good job! did it run well?
How does this compare to the MK 7?
I have a Honda Civic 1997 (Europe market). The Haynes manual for that car says the cv joint can't be removed from the shaft, but shopping online for parts I find kits containing the joint with no shaft. Which one is true?
How much time have you got. I have no idea about the question you asked. But if your in no rush you could remove the shift and have a look your self. If you can then order the part. If not order the whole drives haft. I would say it has had to have been put together so it probably can be taken apart. However in reality if they have used a circlip near the end of the drive shift the opens out properly once its located then you'd never get the cv joint off without damaging things.
It all depends on how long you can do without the car. If it comes off good. But if not and you bugger it all up its no big deal it needed doing anyway so just order the whole thing.
Provided that they're still supple enough, you can just flip the cv boot inside out over the shaft. I've done it when I had to take a load of rust of the cv joint bodies that was stopping them from sealing properly.
7:33 I have the same kind of play on mine and it started to make some noise too, especially when turning and on bumps. On acceleration I have lots of vibration.
I have a question for you but I have to make a premise first. I hear some lound knocking noises when I turn my steering wheel rapidly right and left. I replaced the whole front suspension (control arms, stabiliser links, shocks, inner and outer tie rods) but the knock is still here. I think that's caused by that play (7:33) inside the joint. The question is: did you have that noise?
It could be. Although it could also potentially be the engine mounts. I have seen instances where a worn engine mount can seem like a steering or suspension issue. If the cv joint was making as much noise as I think your describing it would be about to come apart and making quite obvious noises over bumps and in turns.
@@ChrisManChannel all three engine mounts are new because the one on the left was completely shot (and making noises) the bottom one was about to come apart and the gearbox mount was good but I did prefer to replace it. Everything that could make that knocking noise has been replaced, except those CV joints (both are absolutely knackered). And yes, I think they are close to come apart. The only thing that worries me is that stupid hub nut and the joint to be rusted in place. As I saw everything seems to be quite straightforward and relatively easy. Gotta replace those things, they are also quite cheap. Did you reckon the brand of yours?
I cant remember the brand. But you can soak everything in penetrating fluid for a few days. Just apply it 2 or 3 times a day to all the fasteners being careful not to get any on the brakes. It's a proper pain in the arse I know but it should make it alot easyer to remove the ball joint bolt if that hadnt been replaced in a while. You can do the same with the hub not by removing the dust cover. If it looks clean and not really rusted I wouldn't bother it should come right off but if its rusty just clean the exposed threads well and keep spraying penetrating oil on it.
After all if the joint is scized in the hub a few good snacks with a hammer should get it out. And if your changing it it doesnt matter about buffering up the threads
Hope that helps
@@ChrisManChannel the ball joint is new so it won't be an issue. The nut itself as well the threads are rusted, and I'm going to need some air tools (I think a friend can lend one) and for the joint I'll just use my dad's impact drill, vibration and penetrating oil should do the trick. Wish me luck. Thanks for the help, I'm sure it'll be very useful. Bye mate! Greets from Italy!
Chris' Man Channel thats exactly what i had with me previous car
Just an observation for what it's worth....If you don't 'strangle' the hammer the shaft would move after two or three hits. The lower you grip a hammer on it's handle the more power it exerts on the object being struck. Still enjoyed the video, thanks.
How did you diagnose that it was broken?
any idea why I've grease showing in between the rubber gator and were it attaches to wheel ? bearing is OK. could it have just come loose and grease from drive shaft has leaked out?
It could either be that or the boot has split. Either way you should get it looked at soon. If its left it could cause the cv joint to fail if bits or water gets into it.
@@ChrisManChannel Its pulled back a bit but otherwise isn't damaged. could you get away with reattaching, putting on cable tie?? trying to get an old bird thru MOT and my mechanic is booked up. gave whole wheel well deep clean as it had specks of grease. will probably need regreased
@@ChrisManChannel hold on you reckon its split in flush direction it attaches?
I have seen it happen. Unless I'm confusing what you mean. But yeah I've seen them split right half in two if there left for long enough and I've seen ones that have slipped off the cv joint
@@ChrisManChannel im guessing its more likely to have slipped off. thanks a bunch for clarifying, i'll fire a cable round it and hope it holds. MOT man will probably spot grease remnants but i've went thru CV joint checklist and haven't any of the symptoms. cheers again
Hi, not sure if you mentioned it but what symptoms did the cv have? I suspect mine needs changing there’s a squeak under heavy take off?
Did you ever diagnose? My driver side is making a quiet tapping sound whilst driving at higher speeds?
Lucky you. I tried this today on my 97 Camry, could not get it off. The replacement has a split ring so I thought the one on the axle too would come off like yours. Should I take steroids?
😂
Do you know if the cv axle on the diesel engine is the same size as the axle on the petrol engine? 1.4i
I couldn't tell you. The only way to know would be to compare part numbers and I dont have access to that really. It comes down to the gear box really I dont know if they're all the same or not
I'm doing this. tomorrow. Will I have to do anything about the suspension or is it just good to go?
Should be good to go it's not under any tension really once its jacked up. Everything can be removed then. It might drop an inch or so if you disconnect the lower ball joint but that's it.
@@ChrisManChannel alright! Thanks heaps for the video and the quick response!
thx mate i was having an issue ....just tap off .. GR8
Hi mate. Just wondered if this would the same on a st150? As I'm going to attempt it soon
It could be I'm not too sure. The only way really to know is take the boot off and clean the Greece out and look for the clip if there is t one there then its lucky a spring clip. Apart from the the process is exactly the same
Really brill video
Top job, thanks
Thanks very helpful
ive got the exact same van as yourself mate and im looking to change the drivers side cv joint , you got any experience doin the same on the master ?
Not a clue sorry mate. However its probably the same with a few minor differences like how the joint is held onto the drives shift and things like that. If your confidant at working on things like suspension and ball joints and stuff like that it's probably a simple but pain in the arse job to do. Just remember to drain the gear box if your removing the drives shaft completley out the box or it will just leak all over the floor.
If you need any other help ill do my best to help but I never done any work on that van. It was a mobility van and wasn't mine so there's there's few things I'm mot sure on like axel nut size and all that stuff.
is it possible that if your tire isnt sitting straight , is it cased by cv joint or is it the bearing and hub ?? Thanks
normally, this means the car needs to be aligned.
Your outer CV joint is most likely not going to come off as easily as this guy in the video, at least mine didn't. The inner cv joint was also just rusted into the transmission, so I ended up loosening the inner cv axle boot, then I could slide out the whole cv axle. Once I held the axle up vertically in my hand, I could easily tap the outer cv joint off by hammering it a couple of times. You could also try Steven Halas tip using a rope/chain. You could also try going underneath the car to get enough leverage when hammering, but I didn't try that.
He has a point. I have seen some CV joints smash to pieces trying to get them off. When I done my truck they don't have sir clips holding the together and I found holding the axel tight in my hand and hitting the back of the CV joint downwards with a dead blow hammer worked pretty well.
Ich cant get it off. I Drive a Mazda 2 dy (demio). Should be the Same Like mk6 Fiesta. What was the Trick?😥😫
Is there defiantly no circlip holding it on. If there is you won't be able to Nick it off the shaft
Is a vibration on acceleration down to a cv, and what price would you be looking at for an insignai cv joint.
£12,500
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 did it myself the part was £20 out of a scrappy😂😂😂 funny you lad, £12.500😂😂😂
@@ladyshep my f**king punto evo is p**sing me off😡
What size socket did you use for the axle nut?
If I remember correctly the front is 32mm and the back is 30mm
What can you do if your CV joint doesn't come off so easily? I've tried hammering mine a lot but it won't budge
Imagine a piece of rope tied loosely around the bottom wishbone near the ball joint you are trying to get out of the hub. The ball joint is retained by a bolt that jams that pin from the ball joint so remove the bolt. I couldn't get enough leverage to slide the wishbone down far anought to get the pin out and then the pin jammed in place.
Jack up the car high enough to give yourself plenty of downward movement then that loose rope hanging down will allow you to slide either a piece of wood or pipe in the gap then push it in far enough to let it rest on the sub frame wherever you can so when you push down really firm and fast you can push that pin out of the hub. If you don't give it all the power you have it won't come out cleanly and just jam in place. So the rope is to give you a place to pull that arm down because I couldn't find a place to lever against. I used a chain but a rope will do just as good. Hope that helps.
Regards
Steve
@@stevenhales1987 Hmm interesting, I don't get it totally yet, I ended up just loosening the inner cv joint boot, sliding the cv axle out, and hammering the outer joint out.
All I can add is getting that bottom ball joint off the hub and already removed the driveshaft nut allows you to swing the whole hub towards you and tapping the end of the shaft with a copper hammer the driveshaft slides off the splines then you can get the driveshaft off the car. By the way I'm not a motor mechanic just a DIY for myself.
Nice video, what size is the hub nut socket?
did you find out?
Thanks , great tutorial put together well . Much appreciated.
Great video
I can't get my new CV joint to go past the split ring when reinstalling. I've tried OEM split ring and the new split ring is also giving same results. Tried to force it further onto the shaft with a hammer but it still won't go
What did you do in the end. Did you have to take the whole thing out and do it on the bench.
@@ruhul3902 It was a purchase error I believe. I bought from another provider and it went on like a dream
If my cv came off that easy I would feel like a super hero. I have been walking it was a 10lbs hammer for half an hour, just cuz I put the wrong boot on and had to get off the new CV
Very helpful 👍 thanks
This way is better then changing the whole shaft
In this video I show you how I change a CV joint on a drive shaft. Depending on the type of car you have the CV join and drive shaft can be attached in a number of different ways. It can be a sir clip, a sir clip style ring which is an absolute pain to remove. Or a simple split ring like here that just needs a good tap to release the CV joint from the drive shaft. I strongly suggest finding out how they attach before you start whacking away with a hammer possibly causing more damage to other components.
All in all it is a pretty strait forward thing to change. Albeit quite messy and greasy at times. But as you will see after removing the wheel there's only two nuts to remove in order to free the CV joint from the hub.
Please enjoy this video and remember to like, share and subscribe. Plus any questions fire away in the comments section.
Do you know if ford focus mk1 is split ring like the fiesta
I dont sorry. But I do know some of them shared the same gear box that I had in the fiesta. However that's doesnt mean that the drive shaft is the same. I suppose the easiest but not fool proof way to check is buy one and if it does have a split ring then one should come with new new part. But it's not a guarantee new parts always come with different things depending on supplier.
The only other way to tell is by cleaning out the grease from the old one and inspect it before you try and take it off. Either that or download the factory service manual or buy a Haynes manual that is specific for that type of car because some of them only cover certain models age or engine types.
Hope that helps you out a little.
@@ChrisManChannel thanks for quick reply ive got haynes i check that on the pic on ebay comes with split ring nice 1 mate really helpful thanks 👍
Where did you buy the cv joint kit cause I can't seem to find one anywhere
+joe wright I got mine from a local motor factors. But you can find them on eBay. Places like euro car parts will sell them.
Chris' Man Channel thanks bud also what size nut is it for the drive shaft and what size torques bit did you use
+joe wright the drive shaft nut was a 32mm and the torques but was a t50. But it's not been of in a while you may need a new nut and bolt. Hatch my video on how to remove a scized bolt and you'll see what I mean.
Chris' Man Channel good videos pal really useful but what's the nut and bolt called that you removed in the other video
+joe wright the lower ball joint pinch bolt. Just make sure you get the right sized botls.
hey man whats the size of the wheel nut in the middle?
It is a 32mm.
anyone know torque on hub nut?
Friend cv joint how to repair system give
Can you tell me how long it should take to replace a cv joint on a small car?
Azahar Official Channel it all depends on the car. how it is held together and how much rust there is the contend with. Not to mention how competent or confidant you are. But if you havnt done it before and have a good idea how to do it and what your doing I would say set aside a day. If you start I the morning might only take an hour or 2. Bit if things don't go your way it might take a lot longer. I think it took me 2 hours or so but my cv joint came off realy easy. On my uncles astra it took us several hours to take the cv joint off the drive shaft. Hope that helps
Chris' Man Channel a mechanic quoted me for 4 hrs. 100 labour.
Azahar Official Channel the best thing you can do is ask in a few garages. See what the others say he might be pulling a fast one
awesome vid
can osmeone give me the product code for mustang 05
mine wont come off seems the circlip is holding it but i cant get to the circlip
What type of car is it. If it's the same as mine is should just be a snap ring thing like mine. They can be a real pain to get off
God bless you sir
Thanks 👍👍👍
Good effort
You da man 👍
This guy has a lot of faith in those jack stands
thanks mate - nice one
GOOD VID 😁
Hey great vids. Can you do a vid on how to change the rear spring coils?
seems like...you have done it while you were on holiday....are they clogs you are wearing?.... :)
Ford fiesta leaking cv joint
Not sure about those cable ties man
+Dean Chapman its not the best thing. But some cv boot kits have cable ties in them. It shouldnt be too much of a problem on standard cars that are driven around town. But on an off road or performance vehicle it probably wouldn't hold up too well.
Chris' Man Channel should have tensioned them more with some pliers at least
Chauvage changing 😁
Looked rough lol
You're messing with it!!!