I honesty like these motors. Pretty easy to work on AND the issues are well documented so you can know what to prepare for maintenance wise. I have no shortage of tutorials online when I have question. Thanks for the video..still relevant today!
Man oh man. You saved me so much grief. Found the number 6 plug and boot a bit loose. Made the adjustments and now Purring like a kitten over here brother!!! Thank you👍🏼
I just replaced all my spark plugs and coils and mine still has that ticking noise only while driving, but it runs like a champ now nice and smooth, not jerky jerky anymore.
Video ABSOLUTELY helps me out ('06 Ford F-150), wish you showed how to get the cover out but I'll manage. My tick is on Driver side... fired it up to tow my trailer and heard it right away (Damn!) I will check my plugs though, and see if that does it... otherwise, I'll be changing all rollers and lifters just like you!! Cant wait to hear my girl purr like that again!!!
when you went to put the new lifters in, did you do anything to them out of the box before they went in? I've heard soaking them in oil for a night and some people have mentioned bleeding them, I'm not sure what to do yet, I got mine out and found 2 bad ones and have the replacement parts ready to go in
The 2 valve spark plugs are notorious for becoming loose over time. Exhaust gasses build up on the threads. Especially if they were under torqued when installed.
I have a 2009 f150 5.4. Doing the same thing on the same side but it's also less power and gas mileage has gone way down, shop says it's a lifter causing it. Have you heard of lift tick causing that as well?
I fixed a truck at work that was doing what you described. Big lack of power and constant ticking on the passenger side bank. I found a seized roller follower that had a flat spot on it but luckily the cam was still salvageable even though it had been driven that way a couple months. Ended up replacing all the roller followers on that bank and it’s quiet with full power again.
That would be caused from low oil feed, where the lifter has stuck . By Keeping the oil clean and regular oil changes BEfore fords recommendation time interval will help prevent such condition. One of my lifters was starting to make noise and I gave some WD40 treatment and the lifter quieted down quite a bit, it still is a bit noisy but it definitely helped. I used a cap from a tide bottle - pre-measured two cap fulls and it definitely helped. Varnish is a very big problem to these engines and thinning oil too - so I run 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer I wont use 5W20 any more as oil pressure is vital to these engines...But a clean engine will save you a big bill down the road.. It should also be noted that - the passenger side will always be problematic due to the way the flow of oil goes which is from the driver side to the passenger, the Driver side gets first shot at the oil then the passenger side. Also maybe invest in a higher volume oil pump { HV140 to HV160} would definitely be a worth it and save your engine...Update here. If you find the ticking sound only happens when hot and not when cold at startup then it is a valve lash adjuster as- I found on mine - but still dont let it go too long ...
I have same knocking on 5.4L, would loose lifter cause hesitation and not able to go overdrive/shift when pushing gas hard? but it shifts normal if I barely pushed on gas but as soon as I give it hard gas push it would hesitate or not even go overdrive and shift.
Unrelated, but you tried pulling that f26 fuse and seeing if it makes your 0-60 faster? It’s abs and traction control and I absolutely blow the tires off now lol it has zero torque management! Tc button only works so much I realized wish I had tires to hook so I could really test the times I’m pretty sure putting down full power now ha
Looks like this is for the 2-valve. The 3-valve engine you do need a tool to take out roller follower and need to take out the cam for removal of lifters.
Hey I have the same engine and a f250 xl anyways what a knock sensor make that noise also and also I have one I believe it's knock sensor going straight down in the middle between all the valve covers in the top of the block right by I think a water pump hose and then I have a temperature sensor I believe what it is with the wire running over your heater engine coolant hose the big one coming off the radiator well what sensor has one wire running to it just down by the exhaust manifold going into the engine block on driver side? And if that sensor is bad could that make the vehicle have a ticking noise cuz I'm losing power when I try to go up hills it'll go way down and power and then it tries to shift down shift way up and RPMs and still no power to go forward
Ok !! Awesome video I have a 2006 f150 3v I have fixed a few noises and what’s left is a tick that sounds just like yours I think I need to pull the valve covers and check these like you did I put new updated vct solenoids and that fixed the scary hot idle knock I also did new updated spark plugs Hopefully none are loose Yet shouldn’t be since my mechanic did them The tick goes up with rpm It’s annoying Not very loud I’m thinking it could be one of these followers !!!
I'm not doubting you but that noise surely sounded like a bad lash adjuster, which u solved. Was spark plug in same cylinder as bad adjuster? Thank you bub. God bless
How are the rockers put back in? I suppose prying them off doesn't work on the Three Valve, nor just pulling out the lifters, right? I just ordered a valve spring compressor and it was surprising how they can be popped off like that, on a Two Valve.
What would you look for if you replaced all the lash adjsuters and roller followers, put it together and it still ticked, took it apart on the front and verified the timing components look good too replace the plastic tesioners with new melling metal ones (and high volume output oil pump), put it together and still ticks. . . .? It ticks at idle, but goes away at about 900-1100 rpm and returns when rapping it up above about 2300. When I start it it will tick tick tick loud until I put it in drive, then it quiets considerably. Any ideas? A stethoscope on the engine sounds very metal-on-metal tick, not a poof like an exhaust leak.
I bought from Ford Canada at 16$ each.. qty 12 But when I went to change the phazer ant rocker arm ,the found one timing chain guide broken,so replace timing chain guides , timing chain phazer solinoid ...etc etc .. But I had all parts except was missing 12 lifters,so because I bought from the dealer where I was doing the repairs they charge me 48 $ Dollars each.. So the message once you start the work be sure you have all the parts.
Awesome Frostbite《☆》I've heard of the 5.4 sparkplug issues. Man what a moneymaking genius came up with those spark plugs :*: I inherited a Motorhome with a Triton V10 & it took me 5 months to work all the bugs out of it so me & my sister could sell it. It was fun to drive but money was tight back then🤓☻🤠
Imagine a world where you could sell something to someone with the promise of fixing it but using the money from the sale or where you can take an advance on the sale or a loan specific to repair with intent to sell
Great video. My 5.4 is tapping like that. On rt 95 heading to FL today. Also, notice that when you stop after a drive, the front end shakes and vibrates. Press the gas its going away. Was the vibration happening on your truck? Much appreciated!
Did you ever figure it out ? My truck got the timing front end rebuilt it idles good but when i slow down and let ofd gas sometimes it shakes and knocks
The 5.4 is a good engine, but has two inherent design flaws 1) The spark plug change intervals need to be reduced from 100k to 33k. The higher interval allows for too much carbon buildup. Second the plugs need a 500 to1000 mile re torque after initial install 2) The OEM cam chain tensioner gaskets are prone to failure. This results in low oil pressure on the RH (Passengers) cylinder head. Mechanical components on that cylinder head fail due to minimum oil pressures from the leaking cam chain tensioners. This manifests itself as ticking mechanicals on the RH bank. The good thing is if caught in proper time, both these issues can be successfully resolved and the engine will no longer experience the issue, while providing another 150 to 200k service life.
If you think about it, every issue on these engines is the heads or attached to them, including the tensioners leaking and the cam bearings bing non existent and this non replaceable, they should have machined in provisions for off the shelf or custom bearings from the beginning or made replacement heads so cheap that it’s acceptable to just pull them and swap all the old components and rebuild the head, realistically considering many new seals would also be needed the price should be somewhere under $100 after core refund, regardless of cost to manufacture as it’s a them problem not a customer problem
I'll be doing mine in about a week, perhaps this weekend on my 99 F250. I suggest do the driver side first as there's a lot more room and less stuff to remove to make room. That will prep you to do the passenger side after the driver side is reassembled. I'm a novice-intermediate mechanic, so I'm trying to watch as many related videos as possible. Perhaps you should record video of what you take apart making note of every bolt, from where etc in case you forget anything and have to do more research midway in. That way you can watch your recording and get everything back where it's supposed to be. Also, it's helpful to have a piece of cardboard, marker and a screw driver to poke holes, then you can push the bolts in the hole and jot down where it came from.
I honesty like these motors. Pretty easy to work on AND the issues are well documented so you can know what to prepare for maintenance wise. I have no shortage of tutorials online when I have question. Thanks for the video..still relevant today!
Very true!
Man oh man. You saved me so much grief. Found the number 6 plug and boot a bit loose. Made the adjustments and now Purring like a kitten over here brother!!! Thank you👍🏼
Awesome 👍
Thank you thank uuuu
U save from several hundred I did too check # 5 sparkplug was loose tight it, cranck it and wallllaaa like new
Thank u again.
😂😂 I tell my customers they need new timing chain and vct solenoids then I just replace the plugs 1500 cash in my pocket for 150 dollars of parts😂😂😂😂
This project is in my near future 😑 5.4 e150. Nice to have the hood room. Wish me luck. 🔧
I just replaced all my spark plugs and coils and mine still has that ticking noise only while driving, but it runs like a champ now nice and smooth, not jerky jerky anymore.
Can I please ask how you removed the lifter from there? I saw the pry bar for the roller, but do I need a tool to remove the lifter itself?
Nope pulls out
@@FrostbiteRam Thanks man
Video ABSOLUTELY helps me out ('06 Ford F-150), wish you showed how to get the cover out but I'll manage. My tick is on Driver side... fired it up to tow my trailer and heard it right away (Damn!) I will check my plugs though, and see if that does it... otherwise, I'll be changing all rollers and lifters just like you!! Cant wait to hear my girl purr like that again!!!
any luck? I have the same year and engine, and on the left side.
❤❤thanks for u from Iraq after 4yrs of this video
when you went to put the new lifters in, did you do anything to them out of the box before they went in? I've heard soaking them in oil for a night and some people have mentioned bleeding them, I'm not sure what to do yet, I got mine out and found 2 bad ones and have the replacement parts ready to go in
I just put them in and lubed them
I think those are lash adjusters, not lifters, right?
The 2 valve spark plugs are notorious for becoming loose over time. Exhaust gasses build up on the threads. Especially if they were under torqued when installed.
Son of a mother! No more lifter drama!
Right🤣hopefully I'm good for awhile.
I have a 2009 f150 5.4. Doing the same thing on the same side but it's also less power and gas mileage has gone way down, shop says it's a lifter causing it. Have you heard of lift tick causing that as well?
I fixed a truck at work that was doing what you described. Big lack of power and constant ticking on the passenger side bank. I found a seized roller follower that had a flat spot on it but luckily the cam was still salvageable even though it had been driven that way a couple months. Ended up replacing all the roller followers on that bank and it’s quiet with full power again.
That would be caused from low oil feed, where the lifter has stuck . By Keeping the oil clean and regular oil changes BEfore fords recommendation time interval will help prevent such condition. One of my lifters was starting to make noise and I gave some WD40 treatment and the lifter quieted down quite a bit, it still is a bit noisy but it definitely helped. I used a cap from a tide bottle - pre-measured two cap fulls and it definitely helped. Varnish is a very big problem to these engines and thinning oil too - so I run 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer I wont use 5W20 any more as oil pressure is vital to these engines...But a clean engine will save you a big bill down the road..
It should also be noted that - the passenger side will always be problematic due to the way the flow of oil goes which is from the driver side to the passenger, the Driver side gets first shot at the oil then the passenger side. Also maybe invest in a higher volume oil pump { HV140 to HV160} would definitely be a worth it and save your engine...Update here.
If you find the ticking sound only happens when hot and not when cold at startup then it is a valve lash adjuster as- I found on mine - but still dont let it go too long ...
I’ve done the same but with diesel and had a final idle flush of just diesel no oil and it was no louder than with the oil that was in it
5w 30 motor craft oil ever3 to 5 thousand miles, no problems.
I have same knocking on 5.4L, would loose lifter cause hesitation and not able to go overdrive/shift when pushing gas hard? but it shifts normal if I barely pushed on gas but as soon as I give it hard gas push it would hesitate or not even go overdrive and shift.
Do you have a video on removing them? Do I have to remove my cam shaft?
can those lifters cause a camshaft position code ?
Unrelated, but you tried pulling that f26 fuse and seeing if it makes your 0-60 faster? It’s abs and traction control and I absolutely blow the tires off now lol it has zero torque management! Tc button only works so much I realized wish I had tires to hook so I could really test the times I’m pretty sure putting down full power now ha
Looks like this is for the 2-valve. The 3-valve engine you do need a tool to take out roller follower and need to take out the cam for removal of lifters.
Hey I have the same engine and a f250 xl anyways what a knock sensor make that noise also and also I have one I believe it's knock sensor going straight down in the middle between all the valve covers in the top of the block right by I think a water pump hose and then I have a temperature sensor I believe what it is with the wire running over your heater engine coolant hose the big one coming off the radiator well what sensor has one wire running to it just down by the exhaust manifold going into the engine block on driver side? And if that sensor is bad could that make the vehicle have a ticking noise cuz I'm losing power when I try to go up hills it'll go way down and power and then it tries to shift down shift way up and RPMs and still no power to go forward
Oh I guess it might be spark plug? interesting. Good work
I replaced the lifters, the followers and both timing chains on a V10 6.8L and the truck is still making that same knock/tick!
Check for loose spark plug
Try to check the spark plugs r tight enough. Wonder just a little loose and makes a ticking sound
Will be changing my plugs this week. Thanks
Good luck!
Any idea what makes a tick noise only when accelerating
Lifter, exhaust leak, loose spark plugs
Ok !! Awesome video I have a 2006 f150 3v I have fixed a few noises and what’s left is a tick that sounds just like yours I think I need to pull the valve covers and check these like you did I put new updated vct solenoids and that fixed the scary hot idle knock I also did new updated spark plugs Hopefully none are loose Yet shouldn’t be since my mechanic did them The tick goes up with rpm It’s annoying Not very loud I’m thinking it could be one of these followers !!!
Very well could be another common issue is worn timing chain or broken tensioner.
I'm not doubting you but that noise surely sounded like a bad lash adjuster, which u solved. Was spark plug in same cylinder as bad adjuster? Thank you bub. God bless
Did you have to rotate the crank to pop any of the rockers off?
It does help some times to get the spring pressure off.
I have heard it several times lol, they are also known for rod slapping too
How are the rockers put back in? I suppose prying them off doesn't work on the Three Valve, nor just pulling out the lifters, right? I just ordered a valve spring compressor and it was surprising how they can be popped off like that, on a Two Valve.
They pop right back on pretty easily
What would you look for if you replaced all the lash adjsuters and roller followers, put it together and it still ticked, took it apart on the front and verified the timing components look good too replace the plastic tesioners with new melling metal ones (and high volume output oil pump), put it together and still ticks. . . .? It ticks at idle, but goes away at about 900-1100 rpm and returns when rapping it up above about 2300. When I start it it will tick tick tick loud until I put it in drive, then it quiets considerably. Any ideas? A stethoscope on the engine sounds very metal-on-metal tick, not a poof like an exhaust leak.
Check the exhaust manifold
@@darrencampbell4826 Is all good, not an exhaust leak.
I bought from Ford Canada at 16$ each.. qty 12
But when I went to change the phazer ant rocker arm ,the found one timing chain guide broken,so replace timing chain guides , timing chain phazer solinoid ...etc etc ..
But I had all parts except was missing 12 lifters,so because I bought from the dealer where I was doing the repairs they charge me 48 $ Dollars each..
So the message once you start the work be sure you have all the parts.
Work cost me $5,500 ,even I brought phazer, camshaft rocker arm and 12 lifters..
Now is turning like almost New...
Do you have to have the cam in a certain position to pop the roller follower out..? Or does it just pop out in any position the cam sits.
With the spring not compressed
@@FrostbiteRam Thank you! 👍
Yeah the spark plugs seems like they need to be torqued and check in a couple thousand miles
Awesome Frostbite《☆》I've heard of the 5.4 sparkplug issues. Man what a moneymaking genius came up with those spark plugs :*: I inherited a Motorhome with a Triton V10 & it took me 5 months to work all the bugs out of it so me & my sister could sell it. It was fun to drive but money was tight back then🤓☻🤠
Definitely, I bet that v10 loved gas also 🤣
Imagine a world where you could sell something to someone with the promise of fixing it but using the money from the sale or where you can take an advance on the sale or a loan specific to repair with intent to sell
Great video. My 5.4 is tapping like that. On rt
95 heading to FL today. Also, notice that when you stop after a drive, the front end shakes and vibrates. Press the gas its going away. Was the vibration happening on your truck? Much appreciated!
I have the same problem. When I go - everything is fine. But when I stop - it clicks and does not work smoothly
Did you ever figure it out ? My truck got the timing front end rebuilt it idles good but when i slow down and let ofd gas sometimes it shakes and knocks
My 2010 navigator had the same issue. You need to change your VCT solenoid.
Mine only ticks when accelerating and it’s near the front
What spark plugs are good for those 5.4 tritons? Just purchased a mint 2001 F150 Harley Davidson!Thanks
Motorcraft
@@matthewalvarez2741 always!
AWSOME job nice and smooth also learned something.
The 5.4 is a good engine, but has two inherent design flaws
1) The spark plug change intervals need to be reduced from 100k to 33k. The higher interval allows for too much carbon buildup. Second the plugs need a 500 to1000 mile re torque after initial install
2) The OEM cam chain tensioner gaskets are prone to failure. This results in low oil pressure on the RH (Passengers) cylinder head. Mechanical components on that cylinder head fail due to minimum oil pressures from the leaking cam chain tensioners. This manifests itself as ticking mechanicals on the RH bank.
The good thing is if caught in proper time, both these issues can be successfully resolved and the engine will no longer experience the issue, while providing another 150 to 200k service life.
Most definitely 👍
Will oil pressure loss caused by the cam chain tensioner show up on my gauges?
If you think about it, every issue on these engines is the heads or attached to them, including the tensioners leaking and the cam bearings bing non existent and this non replaceable, they should have machined in provisions for off the shelf or custom bearings from the beginning or made replacement heads so cheap that it’s acceptable to just pull them and swap all the old components and rebuild the head, realistically considering many new seals would also be needed the price should be somewhere under $100 after core refund, regardless of cost to manufacture as it’s a them problem not a customer problem
Yep. Does the same on a Hemi. Tech left them loose. Sounds like a wrist pin knock.
Yea that's crazy how it sounds definitely easy to point in the wrong direction.
How much you charge to do a job like that
How hard of a job is that do for someone with novice mechanical experience and how long did it take you?
I'll be doing mine in about a week, perhaps this weekend on my 99 F250. I suggest do the driver side first as there's a lot more room and less stuff to remove to make room. That will prep you to do the passenger side after the driver side is reassembled. I'm a novice-intermediate mechanic, so I'm trying to watch as many related videos as possible. Perhaps you should record video of what you take apart making note of every bolt, from where etc in case you forget anything and have to do more research midway in. That way you can watch your recording and get everything back where it's supposed to be. Also, it's helpful to have a piece of cardboard, marker and a screw driver to poke holes, then you can push the bolts in the hole and jot down where it came from.
Not long really
Have you had a 5.4 bottom end go out before? Mine started knocking. But it sounds way louder than yours
Not on mine
I thought the bottom ends were really tuff . Gonna tear it apart tmrw
Did that tick noise go away after it warmed up??
No
Camshaft or race of man?
Is that a 3 valve...?
Are those lifers soild or hydraulic
Thanks good show
2v
Thanks for posting
When my 2000 v10 does it.. 250,000 miles like my older cars.. run 1 transmission fluid for a few miles.. then change the oil.. problem solved
Great video 👍
You know the Hemi,s are know for the Hemi( tick)
Ticking noise is spark plug or glow plugs!! I don’t understand why some people think are the valves or injectors
Great video bro!👍
How long did it take you to replace all roller and followers?
It's doesn't take long especially if you get the tool that just lifts them out. It is certainly a do it yourself job with the right tool 🔧
@@operationbs7610 what tool did you use and did u purchase that tool on Amazon? Thx for your time!
@@operationbs7610 how much u think sumthing like this will cost cause I got the same problem
@@operationbs7610 can u fixs minds
Did u pull alll the followers without rotating the cam?
Yes pretty much you can
What year is your pick up??
2001
Nice
Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold.
Is this about mongolians or a camshaft?
shit the 5.4l normally have the problem with the spark plugs not wanting to come out hahaha
Right, mine is a 2v so I think I'm good there 🤣lol
That's why they're called a 5.4 ticker lol.....
New faithful? Not old faithful 😂
Sounded like exhaust manifold to me
IF YOU GAT A FORD JANK IT