Want to mention something. Right before this happened. I added my first time lucas oil stabilizer.... I believe this is what caused it cause that stuff was thick. I definitely don't recommend using that stuff just full synthetic oil and a good filter. Updated 9/26/22 268,XXX miles Also I have yet to do timing chain water pump and oil pump. Hopefully can make a video on that service.
Did you have to remove the cam to replace the lash adjusters and or lifters? I had the same roller follower fail. But when pulling up on the lifter it hits the cam. Not enough clearance.
I'd be careful with going to thick as you put more stress on the timing chain tensioners - these are operated by the oil pressure, and going to a thick syrup like Lucas oil stabilizer will blow the tensioner seals. The problem like I said you is varnish is the culprit causing the stickiness...
I had a 2010 5.4 3v. At about 185k I found a couple of rockers bad. 1 with a frozen bearing and another one with bearing blown. I fixed the 2 that were noisy and about 3 weeks later changed every rocker and hydraulic lifter. The truck just got put to bed with 436k. Original engine, transmission and axles right to the end. Ford said I needed an engine at 182k.
I have a 5.4 2v configuration on my e350. The thing is a hoss. I was told the same thing. Ford told me I need a new engine at 198k, ended up running it until 397k. Loved that truck.
Good Catch!!!! just had a fowler give. valve spring and keeper BOING!!!! valve dropped in cylinder CRASH with the piston....mass destruction so vital to listen and fix no engine out new going in...costly and time consuming all could of been prevented.....Good job!
I got a 2005 F150 5.4 with as of now 204,000 mileson it, it has been making noise since 100,000 miles, just at cold startup, after 30 seconds or so it quiets down. I've been wanting to take my valve covers off but have been putting it off. Oil changes every 5,000 miles with Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend.
Same issue on my 04 f150 now I had to do timing chains guides the passenger chain was wearing at the cover. Completed that now I have lash adjusters/lifter out don't know how to actually diagnose it as bad other than a loose rocker arm
I came here researching what I thought was a roller/follower tick on my 4.6L 3v mustang. Although mine sounded exactly like yours after the fix and nothing like what you encountered at first. I'm now wondering if what i'm actually hearing is just the fuel injectors.... I've already pulled off the camshaft covers and the camlobes / rockers looked fine. Thanks for the insight and capturing good audio of your engine after the fix.
Liked and subscribed. Thank you for sharing. Love our trucks but after 100,000 it’s been one thing after another. ABS module, front passenger hub assembly, VCTs, valve cover oil seepage, retarded 02 sensor, traditional water leaks from 3rd brake light, sat antenna, rear pinion seal leak, trans leak from the bulkhead, AC blend doors and as of late I’ve been having minimal electrical issues. At a 130,000 now...no codes or check engine lights but she doesn’t run like she used to. Curious what all youve experienced so far...thanks again. Trying keep the wolves at the door before needing to repair all of the timing/oil pump upgrade. I switched to 5W30 a year ago. She’s paid for lol
At 90k i did pinion seal.. Right now im at 215k and my ac blend door is making noise currently haven't fixed it.... I changed 3rd brake light out and never got water again.. After the cam change and lifters for only that side im still going strong i believe what caused that side to mess up is when i used Lucas oil stabilizer that was my first and last time using that crap. Also currently have a exhaust leak in drivers side manifold. K bought some headman short headers Hopefully i can make a video installing them soon. Overall i haven't had any big or lots of problem other then the problem in this video.
Thanks for the the quick response and feedback. Your time and the effort spent creating and sharing these repair videos really do help. Looking forward to the others that follow..
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt I have an 09 4.6 3v and we have alot of the same problems. The hubs don't last long. The rear light leak, Sat. Antenna leak. Replace my Condensor now the Tapping under the passenger valve cover. I changed to 5w 30 Amsoil. 374,000 miles
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt If you hear the Tap, or tour truck sounds like a diesel. Lash adjusters could be the problem. I had one on Passenger side go bad. I had it changed quiet as can be. I advise to do them all. I switched to Chevron Fuel and I add 1 can of B-12 every oil change. Also, motorcraft coil pack boots are wider than the aftermarket brands. They allow dirt/ water to get around them makes it Hell to change the plugs. Whenever i change one I remove the OE rubber boot. Now at 381,972.
I have a late model 08 5.43valve,, the same head's that the 09 use,ford always change things half way through a year,ithose moters have small drain holes in cylinder heads,i never use Lucas in this truck, just Valvoline high mileage 10,30 266000 and still going, thank God
Did you wedge the timing chain and remove the phaser bolt and just back off the cam shaft retaining bolts to get the cam out? Did you replace the phaser bolt since its torque to yield? If so do you have the OEM part# for it?
Wedge the timing chain, remove phaser bolt and slide phaser back. Now you can remove camshaft and do whatever you need to do, and you can get new phaser bolts made by ford performance from LMR or summit racing believe its 2 bolts for 20, might be labeled for 4.6 3v mustangs but they're the same
Get into the habit of doing a oil change every 3000 miles. I recommend you look up brians channel {FordTeckMakuloco } and listen to his advice. I'd say you were very near the failure point with that tapping noise and were Extremly lucky - cause if it had spitted out the roller follower and had it got jammed in the valve train the engine would of been destroyed. Varnish and low oil pressure are the cause that the valve lash and the roller followers fail on the passanger side, as the driver side gets first dibs on oil lubrication and the passanger gets whats left. My F250 Super duty had a minor tick that was starting to develop and I was able to get to it in time and clean out the varnish with 2 cans of WD40 and wow it restored the Valve lash adjusters before they got that bad all due to varnish / And My milage was 216000km... 5W20 is to thin as the engine get older - Go to 5W30 and as high as {10W30 only in the summer time}. But if you want to save your engines life - get the oil pump upgraded to a HV140 high volume as this will greatly help in your oil starvation problem. Also the Timeing chain tentioners also have a tendancy to blow out - if this happens you lose 60 % of your oil pressure so that is another thing to keep in mind ...
Suggestion Drop your oil pan, check for debris. I bet your cam is scored, and your oil galleys have debris in them. Might be a good time to do a rebuild of the top end.
Wrong factory is 7500 or more. I change my oil when the truck tells me my oil life’s at 20% which is around 7k miles. Full synthetic and premium filter
Everyone with a older ford should get this repaired. I'm at 370k miles on my 2009 4.6 3v and I had the same problem. I replaced one but will get all done.
Did the tick go away when the engine got warm or was it constant all the time? I'm asking because my dad's truck is also a 4.6 3v and it sounds like this but only when the engine is cold. It's only got 130K. After 3-5 minutes the tick goes away. It's super quiet on hot idle. We removed the passenger side cover and it all looked good as well as the chain tensioners and all. Haven't opened the driver's side yet
Is there a way to fix the injector ticking my 06 didn’t really start to do it till after i put a new motor in and also acts like it has no power while getting up to speed but if you let off and get back on it it’s fine just racking my brain on what it could be
Good job man. Did the camshaft get scuffed up i got a 05 navigator with the 5.4 3 valve and i have the same problem but my camshaft is a bit scuffed up any advice should I still used the same camshaft.
Yes it got scuffed up pretty bad. I ended up getting a stock spec replacement Camshaft from eBay. Not oem but was the same specs. No you shouldn't use the same camshaft. I recommend getting a new one.
@@pricim5561 Its not to bad, sadly I dont have a video, I was suppose to make one but had to rush and get the truck running again. Waiting for something else to go wrong, so I can replace timing chain, water and oil pump. And at the same time possibly swap to FRPP Hot rod cams for sound.
@@TheDeedsta thanks for your time man I appreciate it. Im gonna replace the camshaft I might just go ahead and buy bigger cams too lol. Did you have to buy a new camshaft bolt when you took the phaser off
My dad's truck sounds like this but it's got the 4.6 3V. Did you also have to replace the camshaft or was it still good? How long (miles) had the engine been tapping before you replaced the roller followers and lash adjusters?
i wouldnt do 7500 mile oil change on a car i HATED. let alone the 5.4L 3v . i already went through buying an engine. i say 4000 is what i will stick to
Yea im not recommending it to anyone just letting people know what i do and the problems I get. Im still doing 7500 changes with pennzoil ultra platinum. Im currently around 222xxx miles.
@@bullett8995 once you remove the cam its all easily swap able you just pull them out with your hands and reverse the steps. There's tools you need to hold timing chain etc. L
Same motor and year, mine just started ticking 2 days ago but it also is running sluggish, slow to accelerate and my gas mileage has dropped significantly, did yours do that?
I took it to a shop and all that was supposedly done. They tell me that it's a lifter that's causing everything but I've never heard of that. Recommend that i replace them all on both sides. I dont know what to do, any advice?
@@AD-79 it could be the lifters and it's causing a misfire. My lifter didn't break but the roller rocker on top did which caused damage(little chips and ware) to the cam and lifter. Otherwise it was still driving normal since the lifter was still fine. İf it's ticking like how mine was then it must be it.
Yeah it sounds damn close to how yours sounded. I think im just gonna do that side though. Why take the driver side apart if nothing is wrong. Plus cost more
@@AD-79 So in my description I put 186k and it was in 2018 (currently at 280xxx)since then I have not touch the other side its still factory, I only did the side that broke, which I still believe the reason it failed was when I used the lucas oil stabilizer which was thick. Never used that crap again.
There's your problem.. you use Penzoil! Every single engine I've ever took apart that was running on Penzoil was FULL of sludge and gunk. I won't even use Penzoil to start a burn pile of crap in my back yard. Valvoline is my go-to oil, or Motorcraft synthetic. Engines running this oil look darn near spotless inside even after thousands of miles. And FYI: If you're using Dino-oil, change is sooner, say at 3k intervals. If you use Synthetic - you can go 5k. Just my 2-cents!
I honestly think it was the Lucas oil crap I added that did it. I've been using pennzoil for years now and currently at 228xxx still didnt change the other side lifters and rockers since its running perfect still lol.
i have a 2006 5.4 did entire timing overhaul everything, still have ticking sound its coming from #1 fuel injector, tics loud when starting then quiets down, unplug it, its quiet when starting, replaced injector, nothing changed still loud tic upon start up ?
Well it looks like you let it go too far and Now you need a cam as well as a Roller follower . Now here's a suggestion as you can prevent this kinda damage, I use WD40 as a cleaner before I change my oil, as I have a 2008 F250 Super Duty -And I change it far sooner than what Ford recommends. 5000 Miles - NOPE that's too long. More like 5000 Km then I inspect the oils condition. I change it when I can no longer see the imprint marks on the dip stick or when its getting close and hard to see them. I put 2 to 3 capfuls of WD40 { a Tide detergent cap } as a base measure while the engine is hot and allow that to work it's way throughout the system for about 15 to 20 minutes at idle. change the oil then refill. Along with 10W30 oil I put WD40 back in and it will work with your oil with no harm to the seals { 2 cap fulls is plenty and My engine is purring once again. I think what starts the damage here is the lash adjuster collapses then the roller follower becomes jammed as the needle bearing lock up from all the excess pounding they endure then the cam gets damaged. As the engine gets older get in the habit as I do this too in after a long run per use, have a listen while the engine is hot at idle to see if is giving any warning to you as it couldn't hurt , mine has a slight tick but no loud tick as what when a roller follower collapses. As for me I caught mine in time before it went to far, but still the lash adjuster of my engine is still holding. What causes this to start is Varnish - over time builds up and changing the oil is almost not enough - so This is where I tried WD40 and it worked! - Give it a try
If you would have changed your oil at 3,000 miles you wouldnt have needed any lifters or all that work. 7, 500 miles is way over the factory recommended
@@engineer_alv Same here. The oil and oil filter is is toast at 7,500 miles. Once the oil is black its burnt and the additives have been cooked out of it. I go 3,000 on oil. Way cheaper than a new engine in the long run.
@@TheDeedsta na, just stick with a good synthetic 5w 20 oil! Full synthetic oil, trust me, it's worth it! I'm thinking bout a little thicker oil , my truck has 279000 miles on it! But, the 5w20 has got me this far!!! I do everything from commuting to towing my camper, occasionally car trailers. While there are trucks that are more efficient under no towing, towing I will put it up against newer trucks! I know people with them! The fuel economy drops off dramatically! But, I admit my truck has a tuner on it.
@@markmccarty9793 i run 5w 30 past few years Pennzoil ultra platinum. Currently have 277xxx. Still original timing chain water pump etc. Other then what I swapped out on this video.
5.4 3v... do yourself a favor and install the melling hi volume oil pump 20% more volume ....and you don`t have to drop the oil pan to change it.... New Melling M340HV M360HV High Volume Oil Pumps! - TH-cam th-cam.com/video/WLFzB0e3GZw/w-d-xo.html These are the Oil Pumps to get-2004-2014 Ford 5.4L 3v engines:High Volume M340HV Pump (60 psi)
I grow tired of hearing this in reference to Ford. There is not a manufacturer that doesn't have the same number of issues as ford. The only people who say this are those that don't know how to fix them.
Want to mention something. Right before this happened. I added my first time lucas oil stabilizer.... I believe this is what caused it cause that stuff was thick. I definitely don't recommend using that stuff just full synthetic oil and a good filter.
Updated 9/26/22 268,XXX miles
Also I have yet to do timing chain water pump and oil pump. Hopefully can make a video on that service.
Did you have to remove the cam to replace the lash adjusters and or lifters? I had the same roller follower fail. But when pulling up on the lifter it hits the cam. Not enough clearance.
@@brandonwhite2780 yes I removed it and replaced cam shaft as well since it was scuffed
th-cam.com/video/mOda8QPZ36s/w-d-xo.html
This guy has great videos on 5.4. I was unclear. Did you say you fixed it and then it broke two days later?
I'd be careful with going to thick as you put more stress on the timing chain tensioners - these are operated by the oil pressure, and going to a thick syrup like Lucas oil stabilizer will blow the tensioner seals. The problem like I said you is varnish is the culprit causing the stickiness...
I had a 2010 5.4 3v. At about 185k I found a couple of rockers bad. 1 with a frozen bearing and another one with bearing blown.
I fixed the 2 that were noisy and about 3 weeks later changed every rocker and hydraulic lifter.
The truck just got put to bed with 436k. Original engine, transmission and axles right to the end. Ford said I needed an engine at 182k.
I have a 5.4 2v configuration on my e350. The thing is a hoss. I was told the same thing. Ford told me I need a new engine at 198k, ended up running it until 397k. Loved that truck.
Going through this right now back to wrenching. ✌😪
Same löl
I don't know if anyone has mentioned it but I think that is cylinder #4.
Good Catch!!!!
just had a fowler give.
valve spring and keeper BOING!!!! valve dropped in cylinder CRASH with the piston....mass destruction
so vital to listen and fix
no engine out new going in...costly and time consuming all could of been prevented.....Good job!
I got a 2005 F150 5.4 with as of now 204,000 mileson it, it has been making noise since 100,000 miles, just at cold startup, after 30 seconds or so it quiets down. I've been wanting to take my valve covers off but have been putting it off. Oil changes every 5,000 miles with Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend.
Do you have to take cam shaft to take out lash adjusters ???
Same issue on my 04 f150 now I had to do timing chains guides the passenger chain was wearing at the cover. Completed that now I have lash adjusters/lifter out don't know how to actually diagnose it as bad other than a loose rocker arm
I came here researching what I thought was a roller/follower tick on my 4.6L 3v mustang. Although mine sounded exactly like yours after the fix and nothing like what you encountered at first. I'm now wondering if what i'm actually hearing is just the fuel injectors.... I've already pulled off the camshaft covers and the camlobes / rockers looked fine. Thanks for the insight and capturing good audio of your engine after the fix.
Preston have you fixed it?
I have a 4.6 3v with the same noise What was it?
@@ShadowKSG I did. A sparkplug had worked itself loose. The dead giveaway was an oily/dirty sparkplug boot on the offending cylinders coilpack.
@@mw4382 A sparkplug had worked itself loose. Tightening it down made the mechanical "ticking" go away.
@@prior242 glad you were able to fix it!
Engine pretty clean. That Pennzoil synthetic is decent. Not like they used to be
Liked and subscribed. Thank you for sharing. Love our trucks but after 100,000 it’s been one thing after another. ABS module, front passenger hub assembly, VCTs, valve cover oil seepage, retarded 02 sensor, traditional water leaks from 3rd brake light, sat antenna, rear pinion seal leak, trans leak from the bulkhead, AC blend doors and as of late I’ve been having minimal electrical issues. At a 130,000 now...no codes or check engine lights but she doesn’t run like she used to. Curious what all youve experienced so far...thanks again. Trying keep the wolves at the door before needing to repair all of the timing/oil pump upgrade. I switched to 5W30 a year ago. She’s paid for lol
At 90k i did pinion seal.. Right now im at 215k and my ac blend door is making noise currently haven't fixed it.... I changed 3rd brake light out and never got water again.. After the cam change and lifters for only that side im still going strong i believe what caused that side to mess up is when i used Lucas oil stabilizer that was my first and last time using that crap. Also currently have a exhaust leak in drivers side manifold. K bought some headman short headers Hopefully i can make a video installing them soon. Overall i haven't had any big or lots of problem other then the problem in this video.
Thanks for the the quick response and feedback. Your time and the effort spent creating and sharing these repair videos really do help. Looking forward to the others that follow..
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt I have an 09 4.6 3v and we have alot of the same problems. The hubs don't last long. The rear light leak, Sat. Antenna leak. Replace my Condensor now the Tapping under the passenger valve cover. I changed to 5w 30 Amsoil. 374,000 miles
@@mw4382 I’m def going to switch to 5W30. Thanks for the feedback!
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt If you hear the Tap, or tour truck sounds like a diesel. Lash adjusters could be the problem. I had one on Passenger side go bad. I had it changed quiet as can be. I advise to do them all. I switched to Chevron Fuel and I add 1 can of B-12 every oil change. Also, motorcraft coil pack boots are wider than the aftermarket brands. They allow dirt/ water to get around them makes it Hell to change the plugs. Whenever i change one I remove the OE rubber boot. Now at 381,972.
Glad we figured this one out!
Lol
Liked and subbed if your ever in the motor doing phasers and timing chains swap out the oil pump aswell just did mine
I have a late model 08 5.43valve,, the same head's that the 09 use,ford always change things half way through a year,ithose moters have small drain holes in cylinder heads,i never use Lucas in this truck, just Valvoline high mileage 10,30 266000 and still going, thank God
How were you able to remove the lifters? I just replaced my rollers, but I couldnt get the lifters past the cams, so I just said forget it.
You have to remove the cam
Does it make the truck misfire
Did you wedge the timing chain and remove the phaser bolt and just back off the cam shaft retaining bolts to get the cam out? Did you replace the phaser bolt since its torque to yield? If so do you have the OEM part# for it?
Wedge the timing chain, remove phaser bolt and slide phaser back. Now you can remove camshaft and do whatever you need to do, and you can get new phaser bolts made by ford performance from LMR or summit racing believe its 2 bolts for 20, might be labeled for 4.6 3v mustangs but they're the same
Get into the habit of doing a oil change every 3000 miles. I recommend you look up brians channel {FordTeckMakuloco } and listen to his advice.
I'd say you were very near the failure point with that tapping noise and were Extremly lucky - cause if it had spitted out the roller follower and had it got jammed in the valve train the engine would of been destroyed.
Varnish and low oil pressure are the cause that the valve lash and the roller followers fail on the passanger side, as the driver side gets first dibs on oil lubrication and the passanger gets whats left. My F250 Super duty had a minor tick that was starting to develop and I was able to get to it in time and clean out the varnish with 2 cans of WD40 and wow it restored the Valve lash adjusters before they got that bad all due to varnish / And My milage was 216000km... 5W20 is to thin as the engine get older - Go to 5W30 and as high as {10W30 only in the summer time}. But if you want to save your engines life - get the oil pump upgraded to a HV140 high volume as this will greatly help in your oil starvation problem. Also the Timeing chain tentioners also have a tendancy to blow out - if this happens you lose 60 % of your oil pressure so that is another thing to keep in mind ...
Agree 100%. Fordteckmakuloco knows his stuff from start to finish. I did my complete timing job watching him!!
Suggestion
Drop your oil pan, check for debris. I bet your cam is scored, and your oil galleys have debris in them. Might be a good time to do a rebuild of the top end.
You should be changing oil more often than 7,500. From the factory they recommend at least 5k and personally I change mine every 4K
Wrong factory is 7500 or more. I change my oil when the truck tells me my oil life’s at 20% which is around 7k miles. Full synthetic and premium filter
I change mine between 2500 and 3000 full synthetic. Oils cheap compared to the damaged that can occur due to lack of changing it.
@@kain545 Geez how often do you change out the other fluids on your vehicle. Differential and transmission etc.
@@jasongunningham9545 change the diff and trans about every 30,000. Never had any problems yet. Knock on wood. Do a coolant change every 6 months.
I agree with kain my 3v seems to be happy at 2500-3k oil changes 5w-30 motorcraft. I can hear when she wants it changed no abnormal noises 160k
Everyone with a older ford should get this repaired. I'm at 370k miles on my 2009 4.6 3v and I had the same problem. I replaced one but will get all done.
Did the tick go away when the engine got warm or was it constant all the time?
I'm asking because my dad's truck is also a 4.6 3v and it sounds like this but only when the engine is cold. It's only got 130K. After 3-5 minutes the tick goes away. It's super quiet on hot idle.
We removed the passenger side cover and it all looked good as well as the chain tensioners and all. Haven't opened the driver's side yet
@@engineer_alv check your exhaust manifolds
@@mikespeck8642 right on the money. It ended up being the LH exhaust manifold. Thanks
@@engineer_alv Mine was all the time, I thought it was a sign to change the oil. Even after oil change it would come back
Ragging that truck speeding up and down the street will kill that engine
Is there a way to fix the injector ticking my 06 didn’t really start to do it till after i put a new motor in and also acts like it has no power while getting up to speed but if you let off and get back on it it’s fine just racking my brain on what it could be
Good job man. Did the camshaft get scuffed up i got a 05 navigator with the 5.4 3 valve and i have the same problem but my camshaft is a bit scuffed up any advice should I still used the same camshaft.
Yes it got scuffed up pretty bad. I ended up getting a stock spec replacement Camshaft from eBay. Not oem but was the same specs. No you shouldn't use the same camshaft. I recommend getting a new one.
@@TheDeedsta thank you so much for the info I appreciate it. Was it hard to replace the camshaft do you have a video of it.
@@pricim5561 Its not to bad, sadly I dont have a video, I was suppose to make one but had to rush and get the truck running again. Waiting for something else to go wrong, so I can replace timing chain, water and oil pump. And at the same time possibly swap to FRPP Hot rod cams for sound.
@@TheDeedsta thanks for your time man I appreciate it. Im gonna replace the camshaft I might just go ahead and buy bigger cams too lol. Did you have to buy a new camshaft bolt when you took the phaser off
@@pricim5561 Not a problem. Yes I did, got it from summit I think they are about 17-20 bucks each.
My dad's truck sounds like this but it's got the 4.6 3V.
Did you also have to replace the camshaft or was it still good?
How long (miles) had the engine been tapping before you replaced the roller followers and lash adjusters?
I think i put that stuff in description. And yes i did replace camshaft.
TheDeedsta so the lifters and rocker followers did not fix it? Can you please let us know everything you had to do to clear this?
@@Jbyrd75901 yes it did fix it. I also changed out the cam shaft, cause it got damaged.
Nice valve covers bro! I have same truck is it normal for our fuel injectors to be that loud?
Yes these engines have loud injectors
My 09 5.4 doesnt have loud injectors. 240k.
It's the rocker arms going out
How long did it take u to replace the new parts? Figured it be a little tough to get the damaged part out......
About 1-2 days
Exactly how mine has been sounding last few months 😂
I got a question... why did the first one brake ?? Was it an non one after market part?
It was a OEM. Not sure why it was only one.
i wouldnt do 7500 mile oil change on a car i HATED. let alone the 5.4L 3v . i already went through buying an engine. i say 4000 is what i will stick to
Yea im not recommending it to anyone just letting people know what i do and the problems I get. Im still doing 7500 changes with pennzoil ultra platinum. Im currently around 222xxx miles.
How did you remove the roller. Did you take off the cam or use a screw driver
Removed the cam. I needed to replace the cam since it was scuffed
@@TheDeedsta was it a tough process putting it back in? I have a tick too but I think I'm going to use the screw driver method being very careful.
@@bullett8995 once you remove the cam its all easily swap able you just pull them out with your hands and reverse the steps. There's tools you need to hold timing chain etc. L
Do you know if the crank shaft can be rotated with the socket without causing anything wrong.
Same motor and year, mine just started ticking 2 days ago but it also is running sluggish, slow to accelerate and my gas mileage has dropped significantly, did yours do that?
No, mine drove fine, you should do a compression test maybe one cylinder is low on compression.
I took it to a shop and all that was supposedly done. They tell me that it's a lifter that's causing everything but I've never heard of that. Recommend that i replace them all on both sides. I dont know what to do, any advice?
@@AD-79 it could be the lifters and it's causing a misfire. My lifter didn't break but the roller rocker on top did which caused damage(little chips and ware) to the cam and lifter. Otherwise it was still driving normal since the lifter was still fine. İf it's ticking like how mine was then it must be it.
Yeah it sounds damn close to how yours sounded. I think im just gonna do that side though. Why take the driver side apart if nothing is wrong. Plus cost more
@@AD-79 So in my description I put 186k and it was in 2018 (currently at 280xxx)since then I have not touch the other side its still factory, I only did the side that broke, which I still believe the reason it failed was when I used the lucas oil stabilizer which was thick. Never used that crap again.
There's your problem.. you use Penzoil!
Every single engine I've ever took apart that was running on Penzoil was FULL of sludge and gunk. I won't even use Penzoil to start a burn pile of crap in my back yard.
Valvoline is my go-to oil, or Motorcraft synthetic. Engines running this oil look darn near spotless inside even after thousands of miles.
And FYI: If you're using Dino-oil, change is sooner, say at 3k intervals.
If you use Synthetic - you can go 5k.
Just my 2-cents!
I honestly think it was the Lucas oil crap I added that did it. I've been using pennzoil for years now and currently at 228xxx still didnt change the other side lifters and rockers since its running perfect still lol.
i have a 2006 5.4 did entire timing overhaul everything, still have ticking sound its coming from #1 fuel injector, tics loud when starting then quiets down, unplug it, its quiet when starting, replaced injector, nothing changed still loud tic upon start up ?
and its not your exhaust manifold?
Could be a cracked header, we'll have a video up here on that soon
Did you get noise at cold start before the roller get that bad
No. I think it was from the lucas oil additive I used.
@@TheDeedsta I have a tapping noise at startup on pass side,what do you think it is ?
@@steevegmtech7326 possibly timing chain slap. Could be a lifter like mine as well.
@@TheDeedsta it does not rattle at startup like the marble can ,it is just tap for 30 sec then stop,very quiet afterwards
@@steevegmtech7326 could be starting to fail where its loose. Dont wait like me to where it broke.
Well it looks like you let it go too far and Now you need a cam as well as a Roller follower . Now here's a suggestion as you can prevent this kinda damage, I use WD40 as a cleaner before I change my oil, as I have a 2008 F250 Super Duty -And I change it far sooner than what Ford recommends. 5000 Miles - NOPE that's too long. More like 5000 Km then I inspect the oils condition. I change it when I can no longer see the imprint marks on the dip stick or when its getting close and hard to see them. I put 2 to 3 capfuls of WD40 { a Tide detergent cap } as a base measure while the engine is hot and allow that to work it's way throughout the system for about 15 to 20 minutes at idle. change the oil then refill. Along with 10W30 oil I put WD40 back in and it will work with your oil with no harm to the seals { 2 cap fulls is plenty and My engine is purring once again. I think what starts the damage here is the lash adjuster collapses then the roller follower becomes jammed as the needle bearing lock up from all the excess pounding they endure then the cam gets damaged.
As the engine gets older get in the habit as I do this too in after a long run per use, have a listen while the engine is hot at idle to see if is giving any warning to you as it couldn't hurt , mine has a slight tick but no loud tick as what when a roller follower collapses. As for me I caught mine in time before it went to far, but still the lash adjuster of my engine is still holding.
What causes this to start is Varnish - over time builds up and changing the oil is almost not enough - so This is where I tried WD40 and it worked! - Give it a try
If you would have changed your oil at 3,000 miles you wouldnt have needed any lifters or all that work. 7, 500 miles is way over the factory recommended
Actually the owner's manual says 7500 mile oil intervals. That's why I don't always trust the Manufacturers
@@engineer_alv Same here. The oil and oil filter is is toast at 7,500 miles. Once the oil is black its burnt and the additives have been cooked out of it. I go 3,000 on oil. Way cheaper than a new engine in the long run.
Did you have any engine codes
No engine codes.
4.6 liter 09 ford with like 184000 miles and this sound started coming from my engine and getting worser
Link to the replacement parts please .
www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Racing/397/M-6529-3V/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1PSDBhDbARIsAPeTqre0qJZkRprsDvjF9Cux1jiAehUGD_eTMoMj8KF9puM9ANmXZv5PnK0aAqRQEALw_wcB
How u remuve the lifter ?
Remove the cam then just slide them out
How you get those back in. That damn ac is in the way
Get someone else to move lines out the way.
Dammit son, my 05 has 285000 miles on it, it ain't that noisy!
I messed up putting Lucas oil stabilizer garbage
@@TheDeedsta na, just stick with a good synthetic 5w 20 oil! Full synthetic oil, trust me, it's worth it! I'm thinking bout a little thicker oil , my truck has 279000 miles on it! But, the 5w20 has got me this far!!! I do everything from commuting to towing my camper, occasionally car trailers. While there are trucks that are more efficient under no towing, towing I will put it up against newer trucks! I know people with them! The fuel economy drops off dramatically! But, I admit my truck has a tuner on it.
@@markmccarty9793 i run 5w 30 past few years Pennzoil ultra platinum. Currently have 277xxx. Still original timing chain water pump etc. Other then what I swapped out on this video.
5.4 3v... do yourself a favor and install the melling hi volume oil pump 20% more volume ....and you don`t have to drop the oil pan to change it....
New Melling M340HV M360HV High Volume Oil Pumps! - TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/WLFzB0e3GZw/w-d-xo.html
These are the Oil Pumps to get-2004-2014 Ford 5.4L 3v engines:High Volume M340HV Pump (60 psi)
Fix Or Repair Daily
I grow tired of hearing this in reference to Ford. There is not a manufacturer that doesn't have the same number of issues as ford. The only people who say this are those that don't know how to fix them.