It works well, seems to be more responsive than the stock one and they say it's higher torque so it won't hang up on soot. I also rebuilt my turbo at the same time though since it had 200k on it. With a 63mm billet compressor and a 10 blade turbine to lower drive pressure it's like a different turbo now
It works well, I also replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor too so it's actually working at full close now. I went with a GDP Progate for a wastegate, I literally bought the last one when Richard discontinued them. It's a really nice setup, it sucks that they aren't made anymore
That sounds like a nice setup. I'm still doing my research before I start tearing apart anything, but I'm definitely gonna go with something similar. Thanks for the information.
My truck is a 2015. I did initially get a light for the grid heater, but if you leave the solenoid in place and only remove the battery feed and the feed that goes to the actual heater grid you will not get a check engine light. That is how I solved that dilemma on my own truck.
@@CentTxLiving okay. Yea because I'm skeptical with doing it because I use my remote start feature and alot of people are saying if you do that or if you wait until the pre heat cycle runs through you will get a light so I'm trying to figure out options on what to do.
I can't speak to any of that, but what I can tell you is I've started it right away a few times without waiting for the glow plug light to go out and never had a problem and never had a check engine like come on. Worst case scenario you have to put the grid plate back on, that will also give you a good chance to clean it really well. As far as I know the only reason to leave the solenoid in place is so the computer can at least detect its presence.
The truck is running great. In fact my check engine for the turbo actuator cleared up with just diesel additive, apparently it had carbon build-up. I did reinstall the solenoid without the battery power to keep the code for the grid heater from coming back. My truck is fully deleted, with the intake baffle and the turbo silencer removed, so with the intake elbow it whistles pretty loud when you get into boost. Really glad I did it and I hope you have the same experience with your setup.
@@CentTxLiving awesome yes we had some parts fall off in Mexico as well😂😂. Ours is a 12 high output we will be doing a video comparing the intakes later today hopefully. Thanks for the reply we subbed to your channel
@@CentTxLiving have heard of some of the cheap intake horns not being perfectly flat and whistling thru the gasket just fyi. They start off flat but then warp slightly during welding. Thanks for the vid , I am likely doing this same thing soon.
Maybe a slight increase. It builds boost faster and the egt's are definitely lower. Also I noticed a lot less strain on the batteries. If you do this please be sure to leave the solonoid in place and connected, but remove the power cables off the battery and from the solenoid to the grid plate. This will keep the check engine light off.
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I went with a City Diesel actuator on my 2012. They're brand new so no core and cheaper than OEM
Cool, how do you like it?
It works well, seems to be more responsive than the stock one and they say it's higher torque so it won't hang up on soot. I also rebuilt my turbo at the same time though since it had 200k on it. With a 63mm billet compressor and a 10 blade turbine to lower drive pressure it's like a different turbo now
I want to do the same thing, have you noticed any difference with the exhaust brake? I was also thinking about adding a blowoff valve.
It works well, I also replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor too so it's actually working at full close now. I went with a GDP Progate for a wastegate, I literally bought the last one when Richard discontinued them. It's a really nice setup, it sucks that they aren't made anymore
That sounds like a nice setup. I'm still doing my research before I start tearing apart anything, but I'm definitely gonna go with something similar. Thanks for the information.
Does removing the silencer ring really improve the whistle sound?
It sure did, I took out the intake baffle too. Now it starts whistling at about 3 psi.
What year is ur truck? I want to do the delete but afraid of a check engine light from removing the heater?. Did you get a light
My truck is a 2015. I did initially get a light for the grid heater, but if you leave the solenoid in place and only remove the battery feed and the feed that goes to the actual heater grid you will not get a check engine light. That is how I solved that dilemma on my own truck.
@@CentTxLiving okay. Yea because I'm skeptical with doing it because I use my remote start feature and alot of people are saying if you do that or if you wait until the pre heat cycle runs through you will get a light so I'm trying to figure out options on what to do.
I can't speak to any of that, but what I can tell you is I've started it right away a few times without waiting for the glow plug light to go out and never had a problem and never had a check engine like come on. Worst case scenario you have to put the grid plate back on, that will also give you a good chance to clean it really well. As far as I know the only reason to leave the solenoid in place is so the computer can at least detect its presence.
How is it working for you still? We are about to do ours but we went with a Glacier setup cause the truck runs in all weather
The truck is running great. In fact my check engine for the turbo actuator cleared up with just diesel additive, apparently it had carbon build-up. I did reinstall the solenoid without the battery power to keep the code for the grid heater from coming back. My truck is fully deleted, with the intake baffle and the turbo silencer removed, so with the intake elbow it whistles pretty loud when you get into boost. Really glad I did it and I hope you have the same experience with your setup.
@@CentTxLiving awesome yes we had some parts fall off in Mexico as well😂😂. Ours is a 12 high output we will be doing a video comparing the intakes later today hopefully. Thanks for the reply we subbed to your channel
Thanks bud, I will return the favor and look forward to tour comparison video.
@@CentTxLiving cool thanks ✌🏻
@@CentTxLiving have heard of some of the cheap intake horns not being perfectly flat and whistling thru the gasket just fyi. They start off flat but then warp slightly during welding. Thanks for the vid , I am likely doing this same thing soon.
Did you fuel mileage increase
Maybe a slight increase. It builds boost faster and the egt's are definitely lower. Also I noticed a lot less strain on the batteries. If you do this please be sure to leave the solonoid in place and connected, but remove the power cables off the battery and from the solenoid to the grid plate. This will keep the check engine light off.