With the clamp and cool down that connection is never going to fail or leak . Nice quick tip ! And if you don't have electric available a hand held propane torch will warm the plastic pipe up too , just don't hold the torch too close and make sure that you are moving the flame constantly . Have a great day Brian !
This does make a great connection. Great idea with the propane and agree on the caution. I was looking and battery powered heat guns. I don’t really need one, but I could see how it could be handy for a sprinkler job.
I’ve read hearing the end of the pipe in boiling water works well. The temp is lower than it takes to damage the pipe and high enough to soften it. If it’s already installed, wrap the joint in rags and pour the boiling water over it then wait for the heat to sink in.
@@ThatFixItGuyhow do you fix a connection that is leaking? An older coupling and leaking on one side. Can I just heat it up and throw another clamp on to “reset” the seal?
Irrigation tech here, get a proper torch doesn’t have to be a high quality but a quick 3-5 sec flame to the poly end is enough and don’t heat fittings. Also hose clamp connections can undo over time, look into crimp connections with crimp clamps they will never come loose
Good to hear since I just picked up a bulk pack of crimp clamps and the tool at Lowes to fix my spring hose. Guess I'll need my torch, since there's no electric at the spring and I don't have a 200 ft extension. 😆
I know what you mean. I ran a 100 ft cord to use the heat gun. I have never used a torch. Not that I wouldn't. I have seen a milwaukee battery powered heat gun and thought about spending some money. I will try the propane torch. Thank you
Black pipe exposed to sun on a warm day makes barbed fitting slip in easily. Another good, safe option is dip pipe into hot water for a minute or so and fitting goes in effortlessly.
Nice tip, Brian, it could also be used to bend the pipe a bit, but not kink it, too. I'm reminded of a plumber that had to get an electrician bend a black pipe to go around a corner since they couldn't get in the corner with pipe fittings.
This method is so much more work than the way I do it. I first place the roll on pavement for about an hour in sunlight to make it pliable. Then to insert the barbs I just use a few drops of water based unflavored unscented KY jelly. No heat needed. It works so well you can even pull it back out for about 10min afterwards in case you forgot to slide the clamp on first (been there done that). One comment said dish soap which would probably work as well, but I wouldn't want all of the chemicals from dish soap being sent directly to the root zone of my plants.
Clamps can be opened completely and fitted around the pipe. Then just feed the open end of the clamp back into the bolt mechanism and turn the bolt. Works every time!
I've never bothered with clamping barbed fittings and haven't had a failure. The company that installed my UG sprinkler system didn't use clamps either. Home Depot sells a Rainbird "swing pipe assembly" that uses barbed connectors and they aren't clamped.
I'm putting together my gray water system and have a new foot valve new water pump ballast tank all new fittings and even a new water heater but putting in the pickup tube from the Cisterns portal tube is concrete and has poly pipe fitted thru it but 5 Feet down inside so I can't get leverage of heat on it so I'm screwed but thanks for helpful tips buddy always helpful to keep in tool box👍
I have a 1 inch main hose adapter which goes into 3/4 what is is an extremely tight fitting is it normal for your adapter to be so tight you need a pipe wrench. It is All Copper
Use boiled water. It's way better than a heat gun or any sort of flame. Pour some freshly boiled water into a cup/mug/jar. Place the end of the pipe into it. In just a few seconds the pipe will be soft enough to easily put the barb in, or even take a barbed fitting out. Benefits: you can easily control the depth of water so much more precise to heat enough but not too much of the pipe. Impossible to accidentally burn/melt the pipe. Much more even distribution of heat. In particular, heats from both the inside and outside. With a gun or flame, to heat the inside enough, you need to heat the outside even more so the heat conducts through (and poly is an insulator, so this is slow). This again makes it much easier to burn or melt the pipe. It's also far better for removing fittings. For all the above reasons. Plus the even heat means it heats to the right amount faster. And best of all it's impossible to melt or burn the fitting itself as normally boiled water temperature is too low to damage the harder plastic fitting whilst being perfect for softening the pipe. The only disadvantage is obviously a heat gun or flame is instant heat and a kettle takes time to boil. However you probably already have an insulated cup/bottle/thermos for your coffee - simply take another one to the workshop or site with boiling water for your fittings....
Interesting. I had 2 barb fittings fail after hose clamps were applied. I swore I tightened them. after seeing that the clamps were applied over the barbs . Mine were near the end close to the fitting end. I’m gonna try over the barb area. Hard to get the heat on them due to they are in the ground
I some times want to buy clear tubing for connecting to various ports in vehicles for testing and flushing - what is the right way to measure a barbed male connector to determine correct tubing size?
I have always gone by the size of barb and size of fitting. Like 1/4 hose will take a 1/4 barb fitting. But that being said I know that you get into auto hose and it could be different. I will start looking into this and make a video. Thanks for the question and idea.
Should have mentioned sliding on hose clamp before inserting fitting. Used to pour hot water on the pipe. It worked OK. Now I got a heat gun. I have had pipe split if trying to brute force barbs into cold pipe.
Your tip surpasses mine - using a rubber mallet, when possible. One question: do you always install your hose clamps so far from the end? With pex it’s 1/8 to 1/4 inch away, but what is the best distance for poly pipe?
wow that is an interesting heat gun looks like Thomas Edison's prototype for a heat gun is that an added-on metal plate to stand it up on table or did it come with that?
Great video!...I'm having a problem this morning that I've never experienced before...All of my 1/2 fittings are "too small" for my "too big" 1/2 inch irrigation tubing!!!...I can't figure out where I messed up, but either way I have to go to the store and return a big chunk of the stuff I bought...I see you used hose clamps, but in most of my yard I've never needed to use hose clamps...I've just shoved the barbs into the tubing...Do you have any clue what could be happening here?
I had the same problem when I started my irrigation career, this is what I learned: not all brands of 1/2" irrigation tubing and fittings are the same and also if you have a 1/2" nominal size of your pipe, the wall can be thin and have a bigger internal diameter than normal. Be sure to ask to your supplier for the internal diameter of pipes so you make no mistakes with the fittings. Sorry for the late respond 😆
I think that if it goes on pretty easy then I would secure it some way. Wire is a good cheap option for what you are doing. 30-40 psi is pretty good pressure
@@ThatFixItGuy I haven't been using clamps (or anything else) with barbed connectors, should I be using them in addition to the barbs or is relying on the barbs on their own enough?
@@KimBelletare If it has been working for you without them then I would not worry about it. It really is only going to matter if your water pressure is high and blowing lines apart. have you noticed fittings leaking?
Has anyone tried using some plumbers silicon based grease on the barb connector? Heating the female connector is a sure thing, but it’s fatiguing and hassle to do more than a few.
That's good advice, but I have done this both with sunlight and heat gun, but I still get some leaky joints. I've cut carefully, I've put on clamps, but I still have a problem. Any advice?
As a professional who works on sprinkler systems I get an even better and faster tip for you. Just use a rubber mallet. Two three wacks and it's in place. I only use heat on anything above 1.5" pipe. Below that and a rubber mallet does the trick. All the heated pipes I run into that they "set the clamp" are leaking and never made a seal. They just left clamp marks in the hose.
I'm trying to patch up the irrigation system on a new property and can't get the old fittings to stop leaking. Will heating and cooling help mould it into place without changing up the fitting, or should I replace the fitting (it looks ok as far as I can tell). Or maybe splice in some new pipe so it's not so stretched out?
I’ve had fittings that wouldn’t stop leaking and the only fix was to replace. On close examination, the barbs were deformed. You can try heating but in my (limited) experience, you’ll have better luck replacing the fitting. Might need heat to accomplish that without cutting.
Heres a black poly tip NEVER use plastic barbs. They split from the pressure of the hose clamps, ive even seen a barb crack and fail and the part that was inside the pipe was melted. Use brass barbs and 2 all s.s. Hose clamps face one left and the other right.
I know someone that could use your expertise to run alot of permanent water lines that need to last.......🐄🐃 ......😁......... Great tip on making a great contention that's going to last! Let's Get To Fixin! 🛠
Don't forget to put the hose clamp over the tube before attaching the connector. I don't know how many times I got the barbed connector on only to realize I forgot the clamp!
I use a torch. It goes anywhere and you don’t need electrical. I have installed several sprinkler systems with pressure as high as 75 psi and have never used a hose clamp and have never had a fitting failure.
With the clamp and cool down that connection is never going to fail or leak . Nice quick tip ! And if you don't have electric available a hand held propane torch will warm the plastic pipe up too , just don't hold the torch too close and make sure that you are moving the flame constantly . Have a great day Brian !
This does make a great connection. Great idea with the propane and agree on the caution. I was looking and battery powered heat guns. I don’t really need one, but I could see how it could be handy for a sprinkler job.
will the same thing work if i want to remove the poly pipe?
@David Cotto Yes it would.
Thank you for chiming in @richard , I do have a portable propane torch.
I’ve read hearing the end of the pipe in boiling water works well. The temp is lower than it takes to damage the pipe and high enough to soften it. If it’s already installed, wrap the joint in rags and pour the boiling water over it then wait for the heat to sink in.
Good to see that the heat gun used to build the Great Pyramids is still in use!
😂. My father in law rocked the old school cool tools that still work great.
@@ThatFixItGuyhow do you fix a connection that is leaking? An older coupling and leaking on one side. Can I just heat it up and throw another clamp on to “reset” the seal?
Irrigation tech here, get a proper torch doesn’t have to be a high quality but a quick 3-5 sec flame to the poly end is enough and don’t heat fittings. Also hose clamp connections can undo over time, look into crimp connections with crimp clamps they will never come loose
Exactly! Hose clamp connections don't last.
Good to hear since I just picked up a bulk pack of crimp clamps and the tool at Lowes to fix my spring hose. Guess I'll need my torch, since there's no electric at the spring and I don't have a 200 ft extension. 😆
I boil up some water, put it in a cup and hold the end of the tube in the water for a few seconds. It heats it up quick and works well.
And there's a number of reasons why this is a far superior method. Hot water is also great for taking the fittings apart.
I'm not saying that your heat gun looks old, but I think I saw Roman numerals on it
Great tip!
That heat gun is an industrial version. I use one like that to bend thick wall PVC electrical conduit.
Used this tip yesterday on 5 fittings. Worked like a charm. My heat gun was a little more modern than yours.
That heat gun is an industrial version. I use one like that to bend thick wall PVC electrical conduit.
Just the tip I was looking for. I was definitely struggling. Thanks Fix it Guy!!
This is a great tip, I just ordered a Dewault cordless heat gun so I can quickly install all these barbs on my dripline without injuring my hands :)
So very helpful--you just saved me a lot of frustration! I used boiling water for the heat.
That is a great way to do it. So glad this could help you out. Please share your experience and help us grow.
Easier to get boiling water out in the field; take a propane stove.
@@scottwillis5434 I just take a thermos.
Bro busted out Thomas Edison's first ever invented heat gun
omg where has this video been my entire life?? this was so helpful thx!
i use a propane torch. there aren't electric plugs 75 feet away in the yard when you have a broken pipe in the yard
I know what you mean. I ran a 100 ft cord to use the heat gun. I have never used a torch. Not that I wouldn't. I have seen a milwaukee battery powered heat gun and thought about spending some money. I will try the propane torch. Thank you
@@ThatFixItGuyI use a Bic Lighter and it works as well as a torch.
Black pipe exposed to sun on a warm day makes barbed fitting slip in easily. Another good, safe option is dip pipe into hot water for a minute or so and fitting goes in effortlessly.
Thanks for the tip, this saved me a ton of effort today working on my sailboat!
“ once it’s warm, it’s really easy” - that’s what she said…🤣 …. Thanks for the video content saved me a ton of swear words. 🙌🏼💯
Will this also work when trying to remove a barbed fitting from hose that has been in the ground a long time?
Nice tip, Brian, it could also be used to bend the pipe a bit, but not kink it, too.
I'm reminded of a plumber that had to get an electrician bend a black pipe to go around a corner since they couldn't get in the corner with pipe fittings.
Yeah right on. That will make another great video. That is pretty sweet. Thanks Bryant!
Thanks for the tips Brian! Made that job so much easier!
Your welcome. Happy to help
With poly in place of a heat gun or torch hair dryers work in a pinch. With poly though I have normally always used a lighter.
Right on! That’s a great idea. I had not thought of a lighter.
Ladies, you can use your hair dryer too. You don’t need a heat gun.
Thank you! Having a heat gun around comes in handy!
It is pretty handy. The one I used was high dollar, but I get mine at harbor freight. Nice to have around.
This method is so much more work than the way I do it. I first place the roll on pavement for about an hour in sunlight to make it pliable. Then to insert the barbs I just use a few drops of water based unflavored unscented KY jelly. No heat needed. It works so well you can even pull it back out for about 10min afterwards in case you forgot to slide the clamp on first (been there done that). One comment said dish soap which would probably work as well, but I wouldn't want all of the chemicals from dish soap being sent directly to the root zone of my plants.
That’s hard to do when the pipe is already in the ground and you are adding a valve.
Clamps can be opened completely and fitted around the pipe. Then just feed the open end of the clamp back into the bolt mechanism and turn the bolt. Works every time!
How about plumbers grease instead of soap. It’s rated for kitchen and potable water supply, I think.
I've never bothered with clamping barbed fittings and haven't had a failure. The company that installed my UG sprinkler system didn't use clamps either. Home Depot sells a Rainbird "swing pipe assembly" that uses barbed connectors and they aren't clamped.
How do you get it off?
Good tip, great old heat gun!
Not as easy when you are doing it in a hole in the ground (that you are trying to keep as small as possible) though.
This deserves ALOT more likes!!!
Thank you for the kind words! Please share the channel and help us grow.
Everything is always easier in the shop.
I'm putting together my gray water system and have a new foot valve new water pump ballast tank all new fittings and even a new water heater but putting in the pickup tube from the Cisterns portal tube is concrete and has poly pipe fitted thru it but 5 Feet down inside so I can't get leverage of heat on it so I'm screwed but thanks for helpful tips buddy always helpful to keep in tool box👍
Oh man sound like a job. Let me know what you end up doing. Always interested in new solutions to issues.
Will the connection withstand the pressure from the city water pressure? I am planning to replace my main line from the meter with this pipe.
What do you do if it’s on but it’s leaking? Any way to fix it?
Does this work for removing barbed connections too?
What size was the fitting you used for the 3/4 pipe?
Good tip.Maybe use some Dawn liquid soap I use it for lots of tight fitting
I have a 1 inch main hose adapter which goes into 3/4 what is is an extremely tight fitting is it normal for your adapter to be so tight you need a pipe wrench. It is All Copper
what temperature do you use to heat it?
Use boiled water. It's way better than a heat gun or any sort of flame.
Pour some freshly boiled water into a cup/mug/jar. Place the end of the pipe into it. In just a few seconds the pipe will be soft enough to easily put the barb in, or even take a barbed fitting out.
Benefits: you can easily control the depth of water so much more precise to heat enough but not too much of the pipe.
Impossible to accidentally burn/melt the pipe.
Much more even distribution of heat. In particular, heats from both the inside and outside. With a gun or flame, to heat the inside enough, you need to heat the outside even more so the heat conducts through (and poly is an insulator, so this is slow). This again makes it much easier to burn or melt the pipe.
It's also far better for removing fittings. For all the above reasons. Plus the even heat means it heats to the right amount faster. And best of all it's impossible to melt or burn the fitting itself as normally boiled water temperature is too low to damage the harder plastic fitting whilst being perfect for softening the pipe.
The only disadvantage is obviously a heat gun or flame is instant heat and a kettle takes time to boil. However you probably already have an insulated cup/bottle/thermos for your coffee - simply take another one to the workshop or site with boiling water for your fittings....
Thanks for sharing, where can I buy the exact T barbed fitting you used?
Nice tip. Where in the world did you get that heat gun. Looks ancient.
A stegosaurus called. He wants his heat gun back.
Interesting. I had 2 barb fittings fail after hose clamps were applied. I swore I tightened them. after seeing that the clamps were applied over the barbs . Mine were near the end close to the fitting end. I’m gonna try over the barb area. Hard to get the heat on them due to they are in the ground
I some times want to buy clear tubing for connecting to various ports in
vehicles for testing and flushing - what is the right way to measure a
barbed male connector to determine correct tubing size?
I have always gone by the size of barb and size of fitting. Like 1/4 hose will take a 1/4 barb fitting. But that being said I know that you get into auto hose and it could be different. I will start looking into this and make a video. Thanks for the question and idea.
Thanks for the great tip. Saved a lot of time and effort!
Hey Brian thanks for the great information, that is one sweet trick , hope you guys have a great weekend 👍
Your welcome Britt. It works really well. I’m going to have to shoot another video with all the other ideas for doing this that people have given me.
Should have mentioned sliding on hose clamp before inserting fitting.
Used to pour hot water on the pipe. It worked OK. Now I got a heat gun. I have had pipe split if trying to brute force barbs into cold pipe.
So, how do you get that bad boy apart later on?
Your tip surpasses mine - using a rubber mallet, when possible. One question: do you always install your hose clamps so far from the end? With pex it’s 1/8 to 1/4 inch away, but what is the best distance for poly pipe?
Good idea, I forgot I had a heat gun and used boiling water to get a joint in to some pond hose.
Nice video. I just. Started fallowing you the video. Did help me a lot. Thanks 🙏 keep showing videos
wow that is an interesting heat gun looks like Thomas Edison's prototype for a heat gun is that an added-on metal plate to stand it up on table or did it come with that?
I have these on my pool and trying to change out the pump motor and I cannot for the life of me get these thing off the hose. Suggestions?
Great video!...I'm having a problem this morning that I've never experienced before...All of my 1/2 fittings are "too small" for my "too big" 1/2 inch irrigation tubing!!!...I can't figure out where I messed up, but either way I have to go to the store and return a big chunk of the stuff I bought...I see you used hose clamps, but in most of my yard I've never needed to use hose clamps...I've just shoved the barbs into the tubing...Do you have any clue what could be happening here?
I had the same problem when I started my irrigation career, this is what I learned: not all brands of 1/2" irrigation tubing and fittings are the same and also if you have a 1/2" nominal size of your pipe, the wall can be thin and have a bigger internal diameter than normal. Be sure to ask to your supplier for the internal diameter of pipes so you make no mistakes with the fittings. Sorry for the late respond 😆
Great tip Brian!!! Thanks again!!!
Much appreciated commander!
Great tip brother. I love those homemade hose clamps😂😂 whatever works with what you got. Keep up with the great videos
Me too Steve. Im thinking about doing a 5 ways to make that connection video.
I usually use a bit of Vaseline as lubricant addition to heating it
Do you have to use hose clamps on all those fittings if it's just a drip line, like 30-40 psi?
I think that if it goes on pretty easy then I would secure it some way. Wire is a good cheap option for what you are doing. 30-40 psi is pretty good pressure
@@ThatFixItGuy I haven't been using clamps (or anything else) with barbed connectors, should I be using them in addition to the barbs or is relying on the barbs on their own enough?
@@KimBelletare If it has been working for you without them then I would not worry about it. It really is only going to matter if your water pressure is high and blowing lines apart. have you noticed fittings leaking?
I like your heat gun!!!!
Those things are awesome. Very quality.
Has anyone tried using some plumbers silicon based grease on the barb connector? Heating the female connector is a sure thing, but it’s fatiguing and hassle to do more than a few.
Great Tip!
That's good advice, but I have done this both with sunlight and heat gun, but I still get some leaky joints. I've cut carefully, I've put on clamps, but I still have a problem. Any advice?
Put on plumber’s tape first. Because to twist the direction you wrapped the tape.
I use an electric kettle water boiler. Just dip it for 30 seconds then push
That is an awesome idea! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Your welcome. Thank you for watching.
That's nice, but what if there's no electricity around? I normally use dishwasher liquid, and it works.
I will have to try dishwashing liquid. Thank you.
As a professional who works on sprinkler systems I get an even better and faster tip for you. Just use a rubber mallet. Two three wacks and it's in place. I only use heat on anything above 1.5" pipe. Below that and a rubber mallet does the trick. All the heated pipes I run into that they "set the clamp" are leaking and never made a seal. They just left clamp marks in the hose.
What about for funny pipe? Can't wack anything into that with a hammer.
Hot boiling water works most of the time. And is safer for the pipe. The heat gun could damage the pipe if too much heat is used.
Where does one get a short 4" length of poly water pipe? Googling it looks like stores only sell it in 100' lengths.
Menards sells short lengths. Or find an irrigation contractor, they will probably have scraps and may just give you a piece
I think i seen that heat gun in an episode of the flintstones. Barney was using a dinosaur on a treadmill to power it.
Great tip, thanks buddy 👍
Your very welcome. Hope we can help again.
I'm trying to patch up the irrigation system on a new property and can't get the old fittings to stop leaking. Will heating and cooling help mould it into place without changing up the fitting, or should I replace the fitting (it looks ok as far as I can tell). Or maybe splice in some new pipe so it's not so stretched out?
I’ve had fittings that wouldn’t stop leaking and the only fix was to replace. On close examination, the barbs were deformed. You can try heating but in my (limited) experience, you’ll have better luck replacing the fitting. Might need heat to accomplish that without cutting.
I could totally see a bad batch of barbs screwing things up.
Is there flashing (a ridge of plastic where the halves of the mold met) on the barbs? Might need to trim that away.
I like the ancient heat gun, looked like it was from fallout post nuclear. Nice patina.
A worker at Brinkmans said to do the same thing 👍
Thanks for the tips Brian! Plumbing made easy!
Your very welcome! Thanks for all the support.
If I want to remove, do you know how to do?
you can usually pull and twist. May have to heat again, and in some cases cut it off.
@@ThatFixItGuy thank you
Heres a black poly tip NEVER use plastic barbs. They split from the pressure of the hose clamps, ive even seen a barb crack and fail and the part that was inside the pipe was melted. Use brass barbs and 2 all s.s. Hose clamps face one left and the other right.
I know someone that could use your expertise to run alot of permanent water lines that need to last.......🐄🐃 ......😁......... Great tip on making a great contention that's going to last!
Let's Get To Fixin! 🛠
Lol! We have been talking about that. Would love to get out that way and help with that project. Thank you Plague!
Wow 2 whole minutes to actually get into it
Can not turn the pipe when it is in the ground
That is true, but you can turn the fitting your installing.
I like the 1962 heat gun 😂
Pretty easy 😵💫
Is that a heat gun or a prop from the 1970’s StarTrek? Lol!
Awesome Vid Bro.
Lol! It is a sweet old school heat gun I know. Father in law has all the cool old school tools.
You will have a hard time with 160psi pipe though .80 psi rated pipe should be more than enough as most systems should be running at 40 -60 psi.
Be careful of overheating the poly - it will weaken the pipe wall.
great oah thanks 🙏 lottt
Your welcome.
Don't forget to put the hose clamp over the tube before attaching the connector. I don't know how many times I got the barbed connector on only to realize I forgot the clamp!
Hello T-F-G, ...
do you ever use the TEFLON Pipe Sealer on your BARBED Fittings ?
Yes NO ??? why or Why NOT ?
COOP
...
Remember-hose clamp first.
This is wonderful! Exactly what I needed, however my poly… is still in the ground. Thank you for sharing
Instead of using barbed fittings can u just use PVC and clamps
Just 1/2 pvc?
@@ThatFixItGuy yea I've done it before..
HI
Hi back!
Or just use a thermos of hot water.
First off the barbed fittings need to be sanded. They come out of the mold with defects.
Just use a torch it's easier and quicker
Just the info I needed! Thanks!!
Should you let the pipe cool down before putting the clamp on???
I just use a little wd40 and a mallet... clamp
I use a torch. It goes anywhere and you don’t need electrical. I have installed several sprinkler systems with pressure as high as 75 psi and have never used a hose clamp and have never had a fitting failure.
I guess shayne gills career didn’t take off
It could've been a 30 second video or 1 sentence: use a heat gun.
😂 your right. Thanks for watching.
I've used a cigarette lighter as well and held it close to the pipe
nice sunglasses
TLDW: Use a heat gun!
😂 thanks for commenting.