Exactly what I needed to get a leak-free result when replacing a poly pipe to barbed connector on my swimming pool. Attached and tightened while warm. Excellent!
I used a face cloth folded twice and wrapped around the end of the pipe, and then held in place by an old trouser bicycle clip. Then I poured boiling water on the cloth, waited for a couple of minutes for the heat to dissipate through the thickness of the pipe, and then was able to insert the barb! A heat gun also works, and is gentler than a blowtorch.
I appreciate the info. However one question I have is what are (if any) the manufacturer's guidelines? I can't seem to find any information on the poly I'm using. I'm working with 3/4" poly rated for 100 psi. I used the torch method and sure enough I have a slow drip. Short of torching too much or too little, I don't know what I could have done wrong, which leads me to question the torching method if the margin for error is that small. After all, heating plastic changes the molecular structure, does it not? So I'm really curious if the manufacturers have a recommendation on whether the torch method should be used.
I use a wagner hot air gun it works great without weakening or damaging the tubing. I also like to use single ear compression clamps because they get the full 360 degrees when you compress them. Similar to a CV boot and can be compressed with any small to medium end cutting pliers.
Added note: RE Getting to tightening the hose clamps quickly, the PE expands about 8 times as much as steel, so tightening the clamps while the PE is still warm will tighten the fitting even more when cooled.
This was so helpful! I have been trying to connect a garden hose to a huge polypeptide to make a pool heater! And I have leaks! I am about to go try this! Tha KS for sharing.
Or under a mobile home crawlspace where the manufacturer only left 9 inches hanging out of the under belly to connect to. I can see the plastic under belly catching fire now with all his heating
What is the Hose barb size connector for SDR 7 IPS PS24 ASTM02239 PS-11-69 3/4 IPS. 160PSI. The OD is 1.075. Guess the wall is 0.100 . So the hole is 0.800. Do you use a standard 0.750 barb in it and pull the pipe down with a clamp?
@@RIPSAWONE same way. Heat and a barbed fitting. You can use other things too but I can't guarantee their results. I almost don't want to share them incase they don't work but I will.
How tight will the fitting be once it cools? Can it still spin? I have the sdr 9 1" poly, and it's like 7/8 " ID, which is odd. I used 3/4". Once I heat and clamp, will there be any issues?
I have to replace a barbed elbow on the hose coming from my well pump that connects to the pressure tank. How do i relieve the pressure in the line before removing the hose clamps?
Maybe my pvc barb fittings weren't long enough for my 2" poly pipe, but the joint isn't strong enough and keeps coming apart on a hillside even if I crank down the hose clamps. Couldn't find the double barbed stainless steel insert at RC Worst.
doesnt look like the barbed fitting has a collar to spin? how do you connect to the female if can not spin to thread on? looking for an better solution to connect and disconnect my pumps to my sand point wells. thanks!
thanks for a good video demonstration... i have been searching high and low online for brass or plastic shut off valves (with barbs on both ends) that will fit a one inch (inside diameter) black poly pipe... i have found them for smaller diameter pipe, but can't seem to find one inch size... any idea where i might look??? thanks
Barb section. Because I tried to fit a 1.50" pipe on a 1.50" barb connection and there us a diffirence of .150" on one of m'y pipe, and a other one , .090". IT was impossible to Do. Thanks for a answer.
Super helpful video! I need to connect HDPE Pipe to 4" grooved steel sprinkler pipe. Do they make a fitting for this??? I havent been able to find anything!
What he doesn't show you is if you heat it too much and compromise the hook up how you'll be cutting pipe out and coupling more stuff together etc. be careful, do not heat too much just enough, and damn sure use mallet, this guy is in the easiest setting using a vice...
Will this work for the CTS (OD) poly as well as the IPS (ID) poly? The dimensions are kinda goofy on this poly stuff. There's way more CTS available but fittings are limited unless I can heat up the pipe enough to take a barb.
I've got 1-1/2" SDR-9 pipe and a 1-1/2" barb x MPT adapter. The OD of the pipe is just a little bit smaller than the OD of the fitting. I'm going to really to soften up the pipe so doesn't look like the torch is going to work. It looks like I should be using a 1-1/4 or 1" barb. Maybe someone else has had this problem and knows what I'm up against? Thank you
What happens if the black pipe is set on fire to be able to insert the fitting. That is what I saw the pool repair guy do? Will the pipe cracking or leak when I run the filter? Help???
I have a 3/4" brass barb coming out of a gate valve after my water meter. It turns to a 3/4" poly line leading to my house right after the gate valve. The barb just slides right in for some reason. Almost as if it's not even touching. Would this work with that situation or should I get another type of barb fitting that isn't brass? I'm currently trying to find out why I'm only getting 25psi from my meter, so the pressure may go up to 100psi in the future if it's an issue with the city's equipment. Thanks in advance for any help.
That makes perfect sense compared to other info I have read/watched... I have 1" HDPE I think it's 200 or 250 psi and I need to connect to a 1.5" polypropylene sink trap tailpiece. Any thoughts? Thank you.
You would want a 1" insert x 1" NPT and a 1" x 1.5" bushing. If the sink trap has female threads then that's all. If it has male threads you'll need a 1.5" Coupling as well. Here are links to buy all 3: www.rcworst.com/BII-SSMA-100-Stainless-Steel-Male-Adapters-1-MPT-x-1-INS-p2174.html www.rcworst.com/304-Stainless-Steel-Bushing-1-50-x-1-p5074.html www.rcworst.com/316-Stainless-Steel-Merchant-Coupling-1-5-p8091.html
I wonder if you have answers to my questions: 1) Just today, the plastic barbed fitting broke off inside the poly pipe. How to take it out? 2) The poly pipe comes from the well house/pump, about 4' before house foundation it was connected to the Galvanized pipes and a hydrant. All of it rusted and needed to be replaced. Should I use Pex or copper? Pipes in the crawlspace are copper. 3) I also Thinking to lower the pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' - 15' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. My pipe runs about 6' under the ground. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? 4) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? The well is about 30 yards away from the house. Also I found a 5" PVC well pipe in the field. PVC pipe broken, leveled with the ground. What to use to close it, to prevent from debris to fall down? How to find if it has water and how deep? Also what camera to buy to inspect the well? What 4" pump and water tank brands and models are best?
Howdy R.C.-W&C, ... Is there ever any advantage to utilizing a TEFLON Pipe Dope to the BARBS - as a Lubricant or Sealant ? YES ? / NO ? / reasons PRO or CON Thanks COOP ...
This is awesome! I've always used compression type unions for repairs on poly pipe, but for some reason up here in the Seattle area I can't find any over 3/4in to save my life. That leaves me stuck with the damn barbed, clamp on style and I'll be damned if I could force the pipe over the effing fitting.
I'm in Seattle and they have the compression ones at McLendons Hardware store, and then you can probably get them at specialty plumbing suppliers like Pacific Supply.
@@JesseAdamson Hey Jesse, Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the advice! I'm actually in the Redondo/Fed. Way area, so since I wrote this I had tried McLendon in Sumner and Kent with no luck. Next time I will give the one in Seattle a shot and although I can't read the name again at the moment, I will definitely give the other place you mentioned a try. Thanks to the video, I did manage to make the barbed fittings work pretty easily this time around.
Can heated Polyethylene pipe be stretched around a larger barbed insert. I have a 1" barbed fitting and two Polyethylene pipe options. #1) The ID of one Polyethylene pipe is .87" and #2) ID of the other Polyethylene pipe is 1.097. what one should I choose for a well pump application?
Do these barbed fittings rust? Or are they stainless? I'm needing to pipe 1000ft of drinking water from my well to a large 1000gallon poly tank, and I want to be sure the connections dont rust on me. Should I use brass? How long do the connections last?
We sell brass and stainless, we like to go with stainless because the barbs go a bit deeper into the pipe. I'd say the fitting should outlast the pipe, 20+ years or so.
re-heat them and remove them. however the pipe end will be deformed and not be any good for reconnecting to a fitting. I suggest you simply cut them out with a hack saw and if it need's be extended add a splice barbed connector and a small piece of poly pipe to the end.
great vid. Question: in low pressure situations must the pipe be heated first? I wish to go from black poly to PEX, have all the barb fittings and clamps, but do not have torch. Can I get by with just clamps? Many thanks
Thanks for watching! You will have a very tough time trying to insert the barbed fitting without heating the pipe. Also, when the pipe cools it "constricts" on the barbed fitting. If you can somehow manage to insert the fitting without the torch, just clamp it down and check for leaks.
Use a heat gun, they are cheap and easy to find. or grab the wife's blow dryer and use it. it will take a little longer but will achieve the same results. if you still have none of these item's. you can dip the end of the pipe into a pot of boiling water to help soften the poly pipe. If you still have no way to do this,,, call a friend that has a blow dryer.
Can this black poly piping be used as a replacement to a corroded copper line from the meter to the main valve to the house? Is pet better than poly for this use and how deep should they be buried down?
Is that pipe rated for a deep well. If not what kind of pipe do I use for a 100 foot static. I think my well has galvanized pipe and I what to replace to something lighter
Their videos are fantastic and very well done. If you call them they are very helpful and they carry a full assortment of well items. I'm curious if the barbed fitting was placed in ice if that would help?
This is a great question that I think warrants a followup video. I spoke with the factory that manufactures our poly pipe, they said that oxidation does not occur until the pipe is heated to over 425 degrees. He also mentioned that it is generally not a worry when you're using a torch because the pipe is soft enough to work with long before 425 degrees. Keep an eye out for our followup video!
No and the pipe threads hold the pipe inside. NO HEAT REQUIRED for connecting / thread in if needed./ snug fit. When using them with hot water I use metal hose clamps on the outside so there is metal on both sides of the plastic, It works well. Try it you will like it. Ps you probably know there is a food grade poly if needed .
will a heat gun work? Well that depends on the quality of the heat gun. So yes it can be done. Also it is much safer and actually takes LESS time. Not like this guy says. Why? Because you can apply direct heat to the pipe and not have to keep doing this touch and go. You can make a fitting to that heat gun out of metal conduit and a cap. Cap the EMT and drill holes all the way around near the cap and about an inch wide band of holes. Now you can stick the new heat gun attachment you just made inside the pipe and heat it just at the end and on the inside where it matters the most. It will only take seconds even with a cheap heat.gun.
@@michaelkuzmin pex rings are better suited for cheap pex. Honestly I would use hose clamps and a 60inch/lbs T handle torque wrench. Being a plumber myself. Lol by setting torque you get guarantees with the clamps that you won't with pex rings and yes the well line or polyethylene is a heavier schedule or tubing.
I've had different issues in the past dealing with 3/4" poly pipe. After much trial and error, I've found that brass barbed fittings seem to work the best with the size pipe that I have along with the two clamp technique. Steel and plastic barbed fittings are just plain terrible. I can't believe after all these years of companies manufacturing and people using this stuff that no one has come up with a better way of connecting and securing fittings to this type of pipe. The worm clamps seems to a major fail point.
So it is too hard to get the barbed fitting in without the heat first? Suppose you could get the fitting on. If you are using a metal fitting then it stands to reason that perhaps you could heat the metal fitting from the inside and it would melt the polyethylene pipe from the inside and make a bond there. Heating the outside of the pipe with the clamps already on would also melt the clamps to the outside of the PE pipe. I'll stick with your method rather than experiment. But I'll be under my home connecting a 1" Brass insert male adapter to 1" polyethylene of iron pipe size with rated working pressure of 200 PSI per my water company's web site. I'll probably wear an OVE glove on each hand underneath a pair of waterproof gloves.
It would be better to force the metal barb into the warm (not hot) pipe to press it in, but the force required to do that is still impractical. Poly pipe is slippery, and there's no way to hold it for that degree of press fitting. Heating the metal fitting is a bad idea. That will melt and reform the plastic, which will be loose when it cools.
*Yes!* I admire the Worst guy and everybody else who gets this done, but a 3596 deg F propane-air flame is overheating, scorching, and destroying the polyethylene material strength. You only need 200 deg F to soften it, and any more will spoil it. Worst has gotten away with this for 30 years because he's playing around the flame to minimize the damage, there's enough material there to hold up despite being degraded, and the damaged pipe area is bandaged by the metal clamps and not under water pressure.
So I'm 6 feet down (frost) replacing an old leaking plastic 1" tee (installed years ago by previous owner)with a brass T. Plastic is not up to code and I do not want it to leak again so am using brass. My helper thought it was smart to dig a hole as small as possible. Do not do this, you risk a cave-in and there is not enough room to work. I've always used hot boiling water, would not recommend a torch as once the plastic seems heated enough it will continue burning/melting after the torch is shut off. Against my better judgement, egged on by my "assistant" I melted the hose using a heat gun, deformed the end of the pipe. I have heated and worked with plastic for 40 years, believe me it can be easy to FU. I'm going to just cut the tee off as it is too difficult to get enough torque on a tee and it would groove up the interior wall of the pipe with all the twisting and turning. So off to the big box store miles away (the one that put the local hardware store out of business) to get the Tee I saw that has an extra long barb in one direction. As far as the politics, didn't watch it. I did learn from my high school WW2 vet teachers (in both Pacific and European theaters) how to identify Hirohito and Hitler type leaders. We've got one here in the US right now who combines the worst of Hirohito and Hitler. Pretty sure those vets would have said his name begins with a T, not a B.
I'm thinking of using the wife's hair dryer on rubber dishwasher supply line being supplied from a barbed supply fitting. Will this work? Should I use Rectorseal pipe thread sealant?
Oh dear god, you heated that way too much and had too high a heat. Also, heat the inside more than the outside. You can ruin your connection by having the outside too hot. I don’t care about the outside being as hot as the inside. The inside is where it all matters. Also, remember, that poly continues to heat itself even after you remove the flame.
And he basically only heated one side, when he went to side he wasn't standing by he left heat on it for about 5 seconds total, while the other side was almost melting, lol
This is "A" way of doing but NOT the "Proper" way of doing it. Also hand tight means: To tighten with just the use of hands or fingers, without the use of tools. You say hand tight but you are using a screwdriver to tighten it.
Someone asked a question about cooling the fitting. And I can't seem to find it but anyway. This is the reason he asked I would imagine. I know this is not new as far as the video goes but. The reason he asked about cooling the metal is it's because when you heat the polypipe you make it flexiblePliable so you're able to Insert the Barb into a pipe that it wouldn't normally just push into. He asked that because hes probably A mechanic and has installed bearing races. Same concept. Not to get too off track but to use a good example let's say a 2 stroke motor When you replace the crank assembly you have to remove remove the bottom and crank Shaft bearing, And in doing so Most companies advise Putting the bearing races not the actual bearing in the freezer overnight Because cold makes metal contract and reduce it's overall outside diameter. And they advise that you put the clean engine case case cover on a baking sheet in the oven at a 150ﾟ 200ﾟ It allows the metal to expand. Is it's called an interference fit. So that's why he asked. Not to drag on about this but, The 1st time I replaced crank bearings on a crankshaft in a 2 stroke motor but I was surprised at how Well this worked. At room temperature you canTake that bearing race sit it on that engine case and see that it does not fit. With one metal cold and the other 1 warmed up. 9 times out of 10 you can fully sest the bearing race Is with your hand. Is it literally drops in. And when it cools and warms. They are Locked in place. That's why hes asking about freezing the fitting because it will contract it all metalsExpand and contract different temperatures and different dimensions but same concept. Sorry the message was so long I was trying to make it understandable
I wish he wouldn’t even talk about republicans or democrats. It takes away from what he is saying. I would show this to my wife but she’ll just think it’s partisan.
Exactly what I needed to get a leak-free result when replacing a poly pipe to barbed connector on my swimming pool. Attached and tightened while warm. Excellent!
Excellent tip on the clamps being opposite. Been doing repairs all my life, never seen the clamp tip, many thanks.
Glad to help!
I used a face cloth folded twice and wrapped around the end of the pipe, and then held in place by an old trouser bicycle clip. Then I poured boiling water on the cloth, waited for a couple of minutes for the heat to dissipate through the thickness of the pipe, and then was able to insert the barb! A heat gun also works, and is gentler than a blowtorch.
Thank you x 10000000000!!!
I’m abt to run 2000 ft of this pipe (500 ft rolls) - needed to see this video!
Thanks! Great video and weirdly enough one of the only ones I could find on YT
Thanks for the help. Had no idea how to do this. Now I can connect my garden! Cheap money too.
Glad I could help!
I appreciate the info. However one question I have is what are (if any) the manufacturer's guidelines? I can't seem to find any information on the poly I'm using. I'm working with 3/4" poly rated for 100 psi. I used the torch method and sure enough I have a slow drip. Short of torching too much or too little, I don't know what I could have done wrong, which leads me to question the torching method if the margin for error is that small. After all, heating plastic changes the molecular structure, does it not? So I'm really curious if the manufacturers have a recommendation on whether the torch method should be used.
I use a wagner hot air gun it works great without weakening or damaging the tubing.
I also like to use single ear compression clamps because they get the full 360 degrees when you compress them. Similar to a CV boot and can be compressed with any small to medium end cutting pliers.
Added note: RE Getting to tightening the hose clamps quickly, the PE expands about 8 times as much as steel, so tightening the clamps while the PE is still warm will tighten the fitting even more when cooled.
Super helpful! I was trying to get that bloody barb fitting in for ages, I think I just want heating it up enough.
Thank you. This is the tutorial I needed.
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful! I have been trying to connect a garden hose to a huge polypeptide to make a pool heater! And I have leaks! I am about to go try this! Tha KS for sharing.
It looks way too easy in shop , how about splicing a poly pipe inside pit hole with minimum space ?
Or under a mobile home crawlspace where the manufacturer only left 9 inches hanging out of the under belly to connect to. I can see the plastic under belly catching fire now with all his heating
What is the Hose barb size connector for SDR 7 IPS PS24 ASTM02239 PS-11-69 3/4 IPS. 160PSI.
The OD is 1.075. Guess the wall is 0.100 . So the hole is 0.800.
Do you use a standard 0.750 barb in it and pull the pipe down with a clamp?
@@RIPSAWONE 3/4" SDR 7, is it polyethylene?
@@staind288 Yes,petty sure it's black polyethylene
@@RIPSAWONE same way. Heat and a barbed fitting. You can use other things too but I can't guarantee their results. I almost don't want to share them incase they don't work but I will.
How tight will the fitting be once it cools? Can it still spin? I have the sdr 9 1" poly, and it's like 7/8 " ID, which is odd. I used 3/4". Once I heat and clamp, will there be any issues?
I have to replace a barbed elbow on the hose coming from my well pump that connects to the pressure tank. How do i relieve the pressure in the line before removing the hose clamps?
Maybe my pvc barb fittings weren't long enough for my 2" poly pipe, but the joint isn't strong enough and keeps coming apart on a hillside even if I crank down the hose clamps. Couldn't find the double barbed stainless steel insert at RC Worst.
Can you heat pvc like this to connect it to galvanized???
My well outflow is going to be plummed galvanized outflow burried into pvc...
doesnt look like the barbed fitting has a collar to spin? how do you connect to the female if can not spin to thread on? looking for an better solution to connect and disconnect my pumps to my sand point wells. thanks!
thanks for a good video demonstration... i have been searching high and low online for brass or plastic shut off valves (with barbs on both ends) that will fit a one inch (inside diameter) black poly pipe... i have found them for smaller diameter pipe, but can't seem to find one inch size... any idea where i might look??? thanks
Can you show me how to do this upside down in the bottom of a 4’ hole with water trickling out of it during a blizzard with no electricity or gas
Good video btw 👍🏻
Can you tell me the max. dimension différence IT should be between the ID of the pipe and the OD dimension of the bar sectionnelle
Barb section. Because I tried to fit a 1.50" pipe on a 1.50" barb connection and there us a diffirence of .150" on one of m'y pipe, and a other one , .090". IT was impossible to Do. Thanks for a answer.
Super helpful video! I need to connect HDPE Pipe to 4" grooved steel sprinkler pipe. Do they make a fitting for this??? I havent been able to find anything!
Thank you. Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
What he doesn't show you is if you heat it too much and compromise the hook up how you'll be cutting pipe out and coupling more stuff together etc. be careful, do not heat too much just enough, and damn sure use mallet, this guy is in the easiest setting using a vice...
Nicely done!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
what about replacing rusted steel or iron where the pipe must be cut - weld new threaded fitting on ? Epoxy, Clamp?
Will this work for the CTS (OD) poly as well as the IPS (ID) poly? The dimensions are kinda goofy on this poly stuff. There's way more CTS available but fittings are limited unless I can heat up the pipe enough to take a barb.
What if the inside of the pipe has bubbles from being super old?
Thank you... Very good information.
I've got 1-1/2" SDR-9 pipe and a 1-1/2" barb x MPT adapter. The OD of the pipe is just a little bit smaller than the OD of the fitting. I'm going to really to soften up the pipe so doesn't look like the torch is going to work. It looks like I should be using a 1-1/4 or 1" barb. Maybe someone else has had this problem and knows what I'm up against? Thank you
What happens if the black pipe is set on fire to be able to insert the fitting. That is what I saw the pool repair guy do? Will the pipe cracking or leak when I run the filter? Help???
I have a 3/4" brass barb coming out of a gate valve after my water meter. It turns to a 3/4" poly line leading to my house right after the gate valve. The barb just slides right in for some reason. Almost as if it's not even touching. Would this work with that situation or should I get another type of barb fitting that isn't brass? I'm currently trying to find out why I'm only getting 25psi from my meter, so the pressure may go up to 100psi in the future if it's an issue with the city's equipment. Thanks in advance for any help.
Can I use a heat gun?
This was quite e tremendous help. Thank you so very much.
Greetings from Portugal.
Obrigado
As long as they don’t have to fight. Thanks Judge
Super thick poly pipe.
250PSI rated!
That makes perfect sense compared to other info I have read/watched... I have 1" HDPE I think it's 200 or 250 psi and I need to connect to a 1.5" polypropylene sink trap tailpiece. Any thoughts? Thank you.
You would want a 1" insert x 1" NPT and a 1" x 1.5" bushing. If the sink trap has female threads then that's all. If it has male threads you'll need a 1.5" Coupling as well. Here are links to buy all 3:
www.rcworst.com/BII-SSMA-100-Stainless-Steel-Male-Adapters-1-MPT-x-1-INS-p2174.html
www.rcworst.com/304-Stainless-Steel-Bushing-1-50-x-1-p5074.html
www.rcworst.com/316-Stainless-Steel-Merchant-Coupling-1-5-p8091.html
Never heard of this. Is this recommended by the manufacturer? I have used hot water but the pipe was only 3/4 inch.
Can this barbed fitting be used inside metal drain pipes as well? If so, how would you go about sealing the connection?
No, it is for poly only.
Beautiful
Thank you! Cheers!
I wonder if you have answers to my questions:
1) Just today, the plastic barbed fitting broke off inside the poly pipe. How to take it out?
2) The poly pipe comes from the well house/pump, about 4' before house foundation it was connected to the Galvanized pipes and a hydrant. All of it rusted and needed to be replaced. Should I use Pex or copper? Pipes in the crawlspace are copper.
3) I also Thinking to lower the pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' - 15' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. My pipe runs about 6' under the ground.
A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it?
4) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? The well is about 30 yards away from the house.
Also
I found a 5" PVC well pipe in the field. PVC pipe broken, leveled with the ground. What to use to close it, to prevent from debris to fall down? How to find if it has water and how deep? Also what camera to buy to inspect the well? What 4" pump and water tank brands and models are best?
Howdy R.C.-W&C, ...
Is there ever any advantage to utilizing a TEFLON Pipe Dope to the BARBS - as a Lubricant or Sealant ?
YES ? / NO ? / reasons PRO or CON
Thanks
COOP
...
No, do not put pipe dope on the barbs. You can use food-grade lube or dish soap.
It's pretty a good way that I'm looking for, different from the ordinary way
Fantastic video!
Thanks!
This is awesome! I've always used compression type unions for repairs on poly pipe, but for some reason up here in the Seattle area I can't find any over 3/4in to save my life. That leaves me stuck with the damn barbed, clamp on style and I'll be damned if I could force the pipe over the effing fitting.
Glad we could help! We do sell the compression fittings as well if you need them: www.rcworst.com/Fittings-c79.html?Attribs=481
I'm in Seattle and they have the compression ones at McLendons Hardware store, and then you can probably get them at specialty plumbing suppliers like Pacific Supply.
@@JesseAdamson Hey Jesse,
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the advice! I'm actually in the Redondo/Fed. Way area, so since I wrote this I had tried McLendon in Sumner and Kent with no luck. Next time I will give the one in Seattle a shot and although I can't read the name again at the moment, I will definitely give the other place you mentioned a try. Thanks to the video, I did manage to make the barbed fittings work pretty easily this time around.
Can heated Polyethylene pipe be stretched around a larger barbed insert. I have a 1" barbed fitting and two Polyethylene pipe options. #1) The ID of one Polyethylene pipe is .87" and #2) ID of the other Polyethylene pipe is 1.097. what one should I choose for a well pump application?
What size are the poly pipes? 1" and 1.25"? You should use the same size insert fittings as your pipes.
1 1/4 inch is the smallest I would go on any well application. most are 1 1/2" or 2" for maximum water flow.
hey man.. i need to connect a 2mm pipe to a square tank. can i do this with barbed fittings?
Do these barbed fittings rust? Or are they stainless? I'm needing to pipe 1000ft of drinking water from my well to a large 1000gallon poly tank, and I want to be sure the connections dont rust on me. Should I use brass? How long do the connections last?
We sell brass and stainless, we like to go with stainless because the barbs go a bit deeper into the pipe. I'd say the fitting should outlast the pipe, 20+ years or so.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thanks! Will check out your site
OK I got some good info I never knew, however, my problem is removing these fittings after they are installed. Any tips? Thanks!
re-heat them and remove them. however the pipe end will be deformed and not be any good for reconnecting to a fitting. I suggest you simply cut them out with a hack saw and if it need's be extended add a splice barbed connector and a small piece of poly pipe to the end.
great vid. Question: in low pressure situations must the pipe be heated first? I wish to go from black poly to PEX, have all the barb fittings and clamps, but do not have torch. Can I get by with just clamps? Many thanks
Thanks for watching! You will have a very tough time trying to insert the barbed fitting without heating the pipe. Also, when the pipe cools it "constricts" on the barbed fitting. If you can somehow manage to insert the fitting without the torch, just clamp it down and check for leaks.
Many thanks! Also, good advice for the positioning of the clamps for proper fit. Thanks again for reply.
Use a heat gun, they are cheap and easy to find. or grab the wife's blow dryer and use it. it will take a little longer but will achieve the same results. if you still have none of these item's. you can dip the end of the pipe into a pot of boiling water to help soften the poly pipe. If you still have no way to do this,,, call a friend that has a blow dryer.
What type of fitting did you use for the poly to pex since they have different inner dimensions?
Can this black poly piping be used as a replacement to a corroded copper line from the meter to the main valve to the house? Is pet better than poly for this use and how deep should they be buried down?
If you are asking these questions please don't do it. Lol
Can you use copper fittings?
Great idea and Well done. 👍👍
I have a Barb fitting that measures exactly one - what size pipe can I get to connect with that Barb
Thank You for the info.
You bet!
Is that pipe rated for a deep well. If not what kind of pipe do I use for a 100 foot static. I think my well has galvanized pipe and I what to replace to something lighter
Thanks for the question! We actually have a video on Selecting Drop Pipe, check it out: th-cam.com/video/WFRwpQWoZrk/w-d-xo.html
Good video. Thanks for lesson!
Is it possible to re-make the connection if need be?
Yes
Great tips, Thank you !
Thanks for watching! :)
Whats the max psi on the joint?
Their videos are fantastic and very well done. If you call them they are very helpful and they carry a full assortment of well items. I'm curious if the barbed fitting was placed in ice if that would help?
Heating the poly pipe is going to required either way. I don't see how cooling the metal would help.
You are oxidizing the poly with an open flame, wouldn't a heat gun be better ?
This is a great question that I think warrants a followup video. I spoke with the factory that manufactures our poly pipe, they said that oxidation does not occur until the pipe is heated to over 425 degrees. He also mentioned that it is generally not a worry when you're using a torch because the pipe is soft enough to work with long before 425 degrees. Keep an eye out for our followup video!
What's the proper fitting to mate poly pipe to a deep well jet pump?
We use long-barb insert fittings: www.rcworst.com/Fittings-c79.html?Attribs=476&
Thanks it's a big help
Glad to hear that!
Very useful!
Is there an option to have the barbs on the outside of the pipe rather than the inside? I don't want the barbed fitting to reduce the flow. Thank you.
Good question! The other option is to use a ford fitting: th-cam.com/video/rCAUnJgk8JQ/w-d-xo.html
What about CRT Poly Pipe? I can get that type pipe much cheaper but supposedly they require high $$$ Ford Couplings?
Ty this is a good help out
I thank you
No problem
I got away from the high dollar couplings a long time ago just using the next size smaller threaded steel pipe .
Do you use a reducer fitting?
No and the pipe threads hold the pipe inside.
NO HEAT REQUIRED for connecting / thread in if needed./ snug fit.
When using them with hot water I use metal hose clamps on the
outside so there is metal on both sides of the plastic,
It works well.
Try it you will like it.
Ps you probably know there is a food grade poly if needed .
@@sojournsojourntraveler1203 appreciate the response. I should've asked if you just step the size down and run the size down. Thanks
Yah just the the threaded nipple about 2.5" to make the connector .
Happy trails .
Peace and Shalom
Can you explain what you mean? What type of pipe do you use as the fitting.I need to connect 2 inch DR11 and I need 2 inch male pipe threads
cris can i use heat gun instead of torch thank you.
You might be able to, it will just take much longer.
will a heat gun work? Well that depends on the quality of the heat gun. So yes it can be done. Also it is much safer and actually takes LESS time. Not like this guy says. Why? Because you can apply direct heat to the pipe and not have to keep doing this touch and go. You can make a fitting to that heat gun out of metal conduit and a cap. Cap the EMT and drill holes all the way around near the cap and about an inch wide band of holes. Now you can stick the new heat gun attachment you just made inside the pipe and heat it just at the end and on the inside where it matters the most. It will only take seconds even with a cheap heat.gun.
Nice work
Thanks!
Thanks
Welcome
. Don't know if it works. Did nothing to test after, if you are going to show something take it to the end???
On 1/2 poly pipe, can I use 1/2 PEX clam rings instead of these more expensive screw clamps?
I wouldn't
@@richardj5417 not the same diameters?
@@michaelkuzmin pex rings are better suited for cheap pex. Honestly I would use hose clamps and a 60inch/lbs T handle torque wrench. Being a plumber myself. Lol by setting torque you get guarantees with the clamps that you won't with pex rings and yes the well line or polyethylene is a heavier schedule or tubing.
blow torch is overkill.. i prefer heat gun
Heat gun is ok unless your outside on wet grass or working where a pipe has broken and soaked the area,Butane won't electricute you
@@desert1cop bammmm
I've had different issues in the past dealing with 3/4" poly pipe. After much trial and error, I've found that brass barbed fittings seem to work the best with the size pipe that I have along with the two clamp technique. Steel and plastic barbed fittings are just plain terrible. I can't believe after all these years of companies manufacturing and people using this stuff that no one has come up with a better way of connecting and securing fittings to this type of pipe. The worm clamps seems to a major fail point.
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
So it is too hard to get the barbed fitting in without the heat first? Suppose you could get the fitting on. If you are using a metal fitting then it stands to reason that perhaps you could heat the metal fitting from the inside and it would melt the polyethylene pipe from the inside and make a bond there. Heating the outside of the pipe with the clamps already on would also melt the clamps to the outside of the PE pipe. I'll stick with your method rather than experiment. But I'll be under my home connecting a 1" Brass insert male adapter to 1" polyethylene of iron pipe size with rated working pressure of 200 PSI per my water company's web site. I'll probably wear an OVE glove on each hand underneath a pair of waterproof gloves.
It would be better to force the metal barb into the warm (not hot) pipe to press it in, but the force required to do that is still impractical. Poly pipe is slippery, and there's no way to hold it for that degree of press fitting. Heating the metal fitting is a bad idea. That will melt and reform the plastic, which will be loose when it cools.
I prefer a heat gun, way less dangerous, not as dependent on finess of a torch user to not overheat or catch on fire, lol. Great video though.
Not the worst I've seen.
That's MAP not propane, but great video!
Seems like way too much heat. The pipe is now compromised.
It may seem like too much, but we have been hanging pumps from these connections for 30+ years with no issuse.
*Yes!* I admire the Worst guy and everybody else who gets this done, but a 3596 deg F propane-air flame is overheating, scorching, and destroying the polyethylene material strength. You only need 200 deg F to soften it, and any more will spoil it. Worst has gotten away with this for 30 years because he's playing around the flame to minimize the damage, there's enough material there to hold up despite being degraded, and the damaged pipe area is bandaged by the metal clamps and not under water pressure.
1st hafl of video- man heats pipe. Could've done without about 2 minutes of that.
Why don’t you just buy poly pipe compression fittings that are made for the job .
We do sell those as well, but for the cost many contractors opt for insert fittings since the compression fittings are easily 10x as expensive.
So I'm 6 feet down (frost) replacing an old leaking plastic 1" tee (installed years ago by previous owner)with a brass T. Plastic is not up to code and I do not want it to leak again so am using brass. My helper thought it was smart to dig a hole as small as possible. Do not do this, you risk a cave-in and there is not enough room to work. I've always used hot boiling water, would not recommend a torch as once the plastic seems heated enough it will continue burning/melting after the torch is shut off. Against my better judgement, egged on by my "assistant" I melted the hose using a heat gun, deformed the end of the pipe. I have heated and worked with plastic for 40 years, believe me it can be easy to FU. I'm going to just cut the tee off as it is too difficult to get enough torque on a tee and it would groove up the interior wall of the pipe with all the twisting and turning. So off to the big box store miles away (the one that put the local hardware store out of business) to get the Tee I saw that has an extra long barb in one direction. As far as the politics, didn't watch it. I did learn from my high school WW2 vet teachers (in both Pacific and European theaters) how to identify Hirohito and Hitler type leaders. We've got one here in the US right now who combines the worst of Hirohito and Hitler. Pretty sure those vets would have said his name begins with a T, not a B.
The absolute worse thing you can do is apply a flame to Polyethylene pipe!! Don't do this!!! Your pipe will get brittle and crack.
Then how????? If the poly pipe is coming up out of a slab you can't dunk it in boiling hot water
I'm thinking of using the wife's hair dryer on rubber dishwasher supply line being supplied from a barbed supply fitting.
Will this work? Should I use Rectorseal pipe thread sealant?
Oh dear god, you heated that way too much and had too high a heat. Also, heat the inside more than the outside. You can ruin your connection by having the outside too hot. I don’t care about the outside being as hot as the inside. The inside is where it all matters. Also, remember, that poly continues to heat itself even after you remove the flame.
And he basically only heated one side, when he went to side he wasn't standing by he left heat on it for about 5 seconds total, while the other side was almost melting, lol
Next time put gasoline on the pipe to get it ready for the torch.
and for gods sake please use stainless steel fittings I swear the number of times i find leaks at joints and the clamp is rotted away SMH
This is "A" way of doing but NOT the "Proper" way of doing it.
Also hand tight means: To tighten with just the use of hands or fingers, without the use of tools.
You say hand tight but you are using a screwdriver to tighten it.
If there's a better way to do it we want to know! What would you have done differently to connect the barbed fitting to poly pipe?
What a twat. lol
Someone asked a question about cooling the fitting. And I can't seem to find it but anyway. This is the reason he asked I would imagine.
I know this is not new as far as the video goes but. The reason he asked about cooling the metal is it's because when you heat the polypipe you make it flexiblePliable so you're able to Insert the Barb into a pipe that it wouldn't normally just push into. He asked that because hes probably A mechanic and has installed bearing races. Same concept. Not to get too off track but to use a good example let's say a 2 stroke motor When you replace the crank assembly you have to remove remove the bottom and crank Shaft bearing, And in doing so Most companies advise Putting the bearing races not the actual bearing in the freezer overnight Because cold makes metal contract and reduce it's overall outside diameter. And they advise that you put the clean engine case case cover on a baking sheet in the oven at a 150ﾟ 200ﾟ It allows the metal to expand. Is it's called an interference fit. So that's why he asked. Not to drag on about this but, The 1st time I replaced crank bearings on a crankshaft in a 2 stroke motor but I was surprised at how Well this worked. At room temperature you canTake that bearing race sit it on that engine case and see that it does not fit. With one metal cold and the other 1 warmed up. 9 times out of 10 you can fully sest the bearing race Is with your hand. Is it literally drops in. And when it cools and warms. They are Locked in place. That's why hes asking about freezing the fitting because it will contract it all metalsExpand and contract different temperatures and different dimensions but same concept. Sorry the message was so long I was trying to make it understandable
Damn virgin pipe. I feel her pain.
I wish he wouldn’t even talk about republicans or democrats. It takes away from what he is saying. I would show this to my wife but she’ll just think it’s partisan.
I use a heat gun.
Very helpful. Thanks.