I left Germany in 1980 and a member of a PAO(Public Affairs Office) for the station I was on gave me a box of expired D-76 and Kodak B/W film. I helped the unit cover USO events in the area, but I was not an assigned photographer for the unit. When I got to the states I built my own darkroom within three weeks of closing on our house. All of the film and chemicals that I bought with me had expired, at a minimum of 16 years. I found out that pushing the development time gave me more consistent results over keeping the D-76 at recommended time and development process. It was fun and very rewarding shooting expired film and using expired developers.
haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado creo que dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, bien hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 coN mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
I really was surprised that this brown D-76 worked, because when it goes brown it usually means that hydroquinone (which is main chemical responsible for development) is oxidised and decomposed
in black and white chem & film we trust. i've tried a bottle of silvermax from maybe 90s or even earlier (judging from the package), mixed it to the manual recommended solution, and it worked totally fine...
My main B&W developer is D76 expired in 1985, came out of large tin cans and despite the cans rusting, the powder inside was perfectly usable. I do love being cheap !!!!!
Seeing your results with the rusted D-76 makes me want to try out an old can that I found of ‘Armed Forces Developer No. 1’. It expired in 1969, so maybe my shots will have some Fortunate Son vibes
I used to use very vintage single-pack MQ as my main developer when I was desperate about ten years ago. Worked just fine. I assume that one will likely be the same. Post your results sometime!
I did a roll once, trix, in dektol, 35c. It took 30 seconds, and looked completely fine. Just a bit contrasty. You can totally do dev at high temp, I recommend giving it a shot
I successfully used a sealed bag of 1980s vintage D76 found among my father's old darkroom supplies. But I would not have expected the brown D76 to work, so that's pretty impressive.
Wow. This gives me hope for some really old D76 I have, in both paper packages and in cans. Both are pretty clumped up. It’s comforting to know that I’ll most likely get images.. probably not perfect ones, but in my book, especially with black and white film, an image is an image. Thanks for sharing your experience with it!
I have some D76 powder in a jar from about 8 years ago that was obviously opened and had oxygen and air mixing with it the whole time and worked completely fine when I started using it again a few weeks ago. It was all clumped up like a rock too, just bashed it up and made sure to decant off any chunks that didn't dissolve overnight still.
I just mixed some D76 expired in 2007 or 2008, stored in dry room temperature unopened. Used as 1+1 and development time was practically spot on when checked with a densitometer. Old rodinal has worked well too at 20 years expired. I've never mixed D76 in warm water. I always give it just good mixing and preferrably let it mix by itself overnight and use it the next day. It probably mixes faster in warm water but room temperature water works fine too.
i have some 60-70 year old DK-50, parts A and B were completely normal and mix normally, with the slight oxidation on standing turning the solutions a slight tan upon dilution to 1+1 small/medium format films are now fine-grained enough (in general) for DK-50 to be a perfectly reasonable developer for these sizes
You can't kill this stuff man, I got give like 25 boxes of ID-11 five or so years ago. Have been running off that ever since for everything I shoot, still working fine, some of it has clumped but I just use hot as water to get it all mixed up.
Nice "coffee" development. Btw I heard people really using coffee as a developer O_o Also yeah, Rodinal is nice and easy to use. in the last few months I developed few films in stand development. It turned out really well, despite a absolutely didnt care about the temp. Once or twice water was icy cold.
Que grandes fotografias me ha encantado la de la botella y su huella chapo me quito el sombrero, haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol y el sulfito de sodio ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara ya que dispone de un revelador que es el Metol es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 como mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
Okay crazy trichrome man, here is an idea for you that I'm dying to see Trichrome C-41, but developing it in C-41 It'd be really interesting to see how a colour film handles when you force it to use the wavelength of the filters instead of whatever sensitivity curves the emulsion has
I’m puzzled as to why you have problems with a steel reel and tank? What problems do you have? I used them for a long, long, long, long time. My first reels were Paterson, but I soon switched to stainless steel and never looked back. I don’t shoot roll film any more (gave away about 70 reels in just about ever format you can imagine about six months ago), just process sheet film now, but when I did roll film I loaded everything from Minox (9.2 mm) to 70mm. Just took seconds to load them on a counter. Slide film into reel with slight bend, hold film on centre post clip and start into the inner track, place on counter and push. It should roll along the counter and load perfectly … any resistance means you have a crooked load. If you are trying to load them while holding in your hand, stop and rethink your plan.
Im just getting into film, using a very old and rusty can of d76 that i got a good deal on, seems to work fine, and the powder is virtually pure white, but i have a) literally never used anything else and b) have no clue what I am doing at all
That old D-76 was so strange.. any idea what those pine needle looking bits were? I'm wondering if those are in modern D-76, but we can't see them because everything is white..
Were you masked up during these experiments? I was always told to me super careful with inhaling powder developer. Can only imagine how gnarly expired powder developer would fair
psst... hey... put it in a moka pot on serious note the brown stuff was probably an inert contaminant (rust juice?) that threw off your weight measurement. which made the negs thinner, since you measured rust juice+D76 instead of just D76. that is my theory.
@@atticdarkroom As you see here, D-76 in its crystalline state is loose and and a slightly tan off-white. When black and clumped together, is has probably gotten damp and the developing agents have oxidized. Until some in the early 1980s, Kodak sold their prepared developers in metal cans, basically soup cans. Some have mixed up and worked fine after 50 years. Kodak's shift to plastic bags and expiration dates was a matter of saving money on the containers and recognition that the plastic bags are oxygen permeable over a few years, so the contents will oxidize far more quickly than with the cans. The semi-hard plastic bottle in which liquid developers are sold today are subject to the same oxidation problems as the bags, but the makers assume that the buyer will use the product fairly quickly, and once its is opened to the air, that status will supersede any other product life issue.
All those U.S army tins of D-76 from the second world war are all probably still good. Also unrelated but would you try trichroming Adox cms 20? I mean I'd try myself but it'd be funnier (and cheaper) to watch you do it. Also highest resolution film stock now in colour ??? that's gotta be good clickbait right
Just wanted to let you know I won a photo contest with a long exposure night trichrome photo of a ferris wheel. Thanks for showing me the technique.
I'd like to see that photo :) Mind sharing a link ?
That's awesome to hear!
@@stratocactus agreed
im so curious how you do a long exposure trichome!! can you share a link?
Please do share a link :)
Babe wake up attic darkroom postef
How did you get in my house?
3:54 That D76 nugget would be the perfect snack to pair with a refreshing pint of Blix
They always talk about chunky film grain, never about c h o n k e y film developer.
I left Germany in 1980 and a member of a PAO(Public Affairs Office) for the station I was on gave me a box of expired D-76 and Kodak B/W film. I helped the unit cover USO events in the area, but I was not an assigned photographer for the unit. When I got to the states I built my own darkroom within three weeks of closing on our house. All of the film and chemicals that I bought with me had expired, at a minimum of 16 years. I found out that pushing the development time gave me more consistent results over keeping the D-76 at recommended time and development process. It was fun and very rewarding shooting expired film and using expired developers.
haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado creo que dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, bien hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 coN mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
This channel really is the Dankpods of film.. and I love it
I really was surprised that this brown D-76 worked, because when it goes brown it usually means that hydroquinone (which is main chemical responsible for development) is oxidised and decomposed
Decaf-76, amazing.
Love watching you answer the questions we are all secretly wondering.
mm yes the D-76 rock
in black and white chem & film we trust. i've tried a bottle of silvermax from maybe 90s or even earlier (judging from the package), mixed it to the manual recommended solution, and it worked totally fine...
My main B&W developer is D76 expired in 1985, came out of large tin cans and despite the cans rusting, the powder inside was perfectly usable. I do love being cheap !!!!!
i'm wondering if using expired fixer is ok?
Seeing your results with the rusted D-76 makes me want to try out an old can that I found of ‘Armed Forces Developer No. 1’. It expired in 1969, so maybe my shots will have some Fortunate Son vibes
I used to use very vintage single-pack MQ as my main developer when I was desperate about ten years ago. Worked just fine. I assume that one will likely be the same. Post your results sometime!
Definitely keep us informed on the results!
@@danem2215 I'll make sure to do so!
@@BriManeely I'll have to do that for sure!
@@ExpiredBren Updates ? :)
I did a roll once, trix, in dektol, 35c. It took 30 seconds, and looked completely fine. Just a bit contrasty. You can totally do dev at high temp, I recommend giving it a shot
It's definitely on the list!
After the Kodapocalypse, this may be our only hope to develop that long treasured and expired Tri-X
I successfully used a sealed bag of 1980s vintage D76 found among my father's old darkroom supplies. But I would not have expected the brown D76 to work, so that's pretty impressive.
My local antique store has a few cans of D-76 from probably the late 50s, I'm not gonna lie it's very tempting
Wow. This gives me hope for some really old D76 I have, in both paper packages and in cans. Both are pretty clumped up. It’s comforting to know that I’ll most likely get images.. probably not perfect ones, but in my book, especially with black and white film, an image is an image. Thanks for sharing your experience with it!
Not bad. That turned out much better than I was expecting.
I have some D76 powder in a jar from about 8 years ago that was obviously opened and had oxygen and air mixing with it the whole time and worked completely fine when I started using it again a few weeks ago. It was all clumped up like a rock too, just bashed it up and made sure to decant off any chunks that didn't dissolve overnight still.
I just mixed some D76 expired in 2007 or 2008, stored in dry room temperature unopened. Used as 1+1 and development time was practically spot on when checked with a densitometer. Old rodinal has worked well too at 20 years expired.
I've never mixed D76 in warm water. I always give it just good mixing and preferrably let it mix by itself overnight and use it the next day. It probably mixes faster in warm water but room temperature water works fine too.
Amazing,thank you for this video.
I have a D-76 pack expired in February 2023, so based on your experience I can still use it normally.
i have some 60-70 year old DK-50, parts A and B were completely normal and mix normally, with the slight oxidation on standing turning the solutions a slight tan upon dilution to 1+1
small/medium format films are now fine-grained enough (in general) for DK-50 to be a perfectly reasonable developer for these sizes
such an underrated channel, keep up the good work!
You can't kill this stuff man, I got give like 25 boxes of ID-11 five or so years ago. Have been running off that ever since for everything I shoot, still working fine, some of it has clumped but I just use hot as water to get it all mixed up.
As someone with a couple of 8-ish year old bags of D76, this is terribly interesting :)
It's definitely worth a shot.
Best channel on TH-cam.
I have a few of the same unopened D76 cans, now i know i can use them, thanks :D
Nice "coffee" development. Btw I heard people really using coffee as a developer O_o
Also yeah, Rodinal is nice and easy to use. in the last few months I developed few films in stand development. It turned out really well, despite a absolutely didnt care about the temp. Once or twice water was icy cold.
Yep, it's called caffenol. Plenty of diy recipes on how to mix yourself. I've heard of people developing with beer too.
I laughed so loud when you opened the can!
wake up new attic darkroom video
$2.99 for the Dev? What a steal.
Cut into strips of five? Genuine serial killer detected, police, Poliiiiiiice!
I'll never understand the point of 35-frame sleeves.
Que grandes fotografias me ha encantado la de la botella y su huella chapo me quito el sombrero, haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol y el sulfito de sodio ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara ya que dispone de un revelador que es el Metol es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 como mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
I have bag of D-76 which has written expiration 2018-01, so considering to this I think it's still OK.
Okay crazy trichrome man, here is an idea for you that I'm dying to see
Trichrome C-41, but developing it in C-41
It'd be really interesting to see how a colour film handles when you force it to use the wavelength of the filters instead of whatever sensitivity curves the emulsion has
D76 is the developer I primarily use
Interesting! I have some bags of D76 from the early 1980's. They are paper/foil bags. Maybe I won't throw them out after all.
hello, mate!
one thing i've been using 'stock' is carestream X-ray developer.
i couldn't find the datasheet anywhere, but it is very interesting...
I’m puzzled as to why you have problems with a steel reel and tank? What problems do you have? I used them for a long, long, long, long time. My first reels were Paterson, but I soon switched to stainless steel and never looked back. I don’t shoot roll film any more (gave away about 70 reels in just about ever format you can imagine about six months ago), just process sheet film now, but when I did roll film I loaded everything from Minox (9.2 mm) to 70mm. Just took seconds to load them on a counter. Slide film into reel with slight bend, hold film on centre post clip and start into the inner track, place on counter and push. It should roll along the counter and load perfectly … any resistance means you have a crooked load. If you are trying to load them while holding in your hand, stop and rethink your plan.
love me some d76 content
Do you remember what the working solution looked like?
I am shocked the second one did anything at all!
Im just getting into film, using a very old and rusty can of d76 that i got a good deal on, seems to work fine, and the powder is virtually pure white, but i have a) literally never used anything else and b) have no clue what I am doing at all
literally just bought some expired d76 yesterday. are you in my walls?
for the next video idea, maybe try solarized trichrome
🤔 I never thought about it, but now I really want to try it. Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd love to see that!
That old D-76 was so strange.. any idea what those pine needle looking bits were? I'm wondering if those are in modern D-76, but we can't see them because everything is white..
Not sure, but I also had the same thought.
Maybe a component that had absorbed a bit of moisture and partially crystalized?
Azriel Knight successfully used a 1960s expired d76 a couple years back.
Were you masked up during these experiments? I was always told to me super careful with inhaling powder developer. Can only imagine how gnarly expired powder developer would fair
Yep, any time I mix powder I mask up. Can't be breathing that stuff in.
psst... hey... put it in a moka pot
on serious note the brown stuff was probably an inert contaminant (rust juice?) that threw off your weight measurement. which made the negs thinner, since you measured rust juice+D76 instead of just D76. that is my theory.
Hmm, I never even considered that but I can see that making sense. Now I wonder if I can develop film in rust juice.
Do you think you'll ever do a vid where you test ever developer?
LETS GOO new video 🫡🔥
What's up with the vignetting on the last trichrome roll?
24mm plus magnetic filter adapters. I could minimize it if I don't use the adapters but after a while I stopped caring.
@@atticdarkroom I hear you
Hmm what about already mixed D76?
So, powder form is a sure thing to go, no matter the decade we in hahahaha
No hiss.
The only downside to watching these videos when they come out is that there aren't enough comments yet, so nobody has explained why it turned black
Yeah I'd love to know as well. Probably something to do with oxidation or something.
@@atticdarkroom As you see here, D-76 in its crystalline state is loose and and a slightly tan off-white. When black and clumped together, is has probably gotten damp and the developing agents have oxidized. Until some in the early 1980s, Kodak sold their prepared developers in metal cans, basically soup cans. Some have mixed up and worked fine after 50 years. Kodak's shift to plastic bags and expiration dates was a matter of saving money on the containers and recognition that the plastic bags are oxygen permeable over a few years, so the contents will oxidize far more quickly than with the cans. The semi-hard plastic bottle in which liquid developers are sold today are subject to the same oxidation problems as the bags, but the makers assume that the buyer will use the product fairly quickly, and once its is opened to the air, that status will supersede any other product life issue.
3:41 no hiss
All those U.S army tins of D-76 from the second world war are all probably still good. Also unrelated but would you try trichroming Adox cms 20? I mean I'd try myself but it'd be funnier (and cheaper) to watch you do it. Also highest resolution film stock now in colour ??? that's gotta be good clickbait right
Look at the numbers on the edges of the film That will tell you if the film was developed anywhere properly - no density or contrast data but though.
Gunky D76 🤣🤣