I think you did a great job on this model! Having the correct part for your glass was essential. Some restorers just "make do" and after the car is restored beautifully, the glass lets the whole project down. (I wonder why my eye always seems to go to the defects?) These cars were all over the roads here in the day, and the praise and knock on MGs was always they didn't do any one thing great...but all things well. Great restoration, Johan! Best, Stephen
Thanks, Stephen! Sometimes one doesn't have a choice when it comes to windows. And even third party windows are often not very good as the plastic is thicker and they don't fit too well. I was glad to have this intact window in the windows bin. This is now the second MG I did on my channel. It's a fun little model to work on. 🙂
Thanks! 🙂I'm using an 80 amp jewelry spot welder to melt the axle ends to a little ball. You only see the electrodes on screen. The welding unit sits under the table. You can find those on Amazon or AliExpress, just search for 'jewelry welder'.
@@smallscalediecastgarage8987 I can't check the settings right now, but I know they are very low on my 80 Amp welder. I worked with trial and error to find the 'sweet spot'. With the toggle switch on minimum power, I started out at the lowest setting on coarse and fine, then slowly increased the settings until I got the desired result. Must be somewhere around 1 or 2 on the coarse dial. Normally you should be able to weld steel between 0.5mm and 1mm with the same setting. Keep the axle end about half a mm to 1mm from the electrode. Don't let them touch. Just a very short spark will do. Don't keep the pedal pressed for too long as this will ruin the weld, but also damage your welder.
@@BelgianDiecastRestorations Thank you, I will give it a try. I used Coarse 4.5 and Fine 7.5 with switch on Minimum for 0.5 to 0.7 because I tried how easy it was to remove the welding point and found it was more firm with these settings. I'm using a gold tungsten electrode because the red ones are thoriated and radioactive, don't know if that makes a difference.
How wonderful! You gave the doggy a bath! The driver got scrubbed and the car received a factory reset! Thank you, Johan!
Thanks for watching! 🙂
Another classic Matchbox brought back! Fantastic job Johan!
Thanks!
Love this casting in regular or superfast wheels. A brilliant restoration. It looks great.
Thanks! It's a fun casting to work on.
Nice restoration, details and paint job 👌 👍
Thanks!
Wonderful restoration for classic car😊
Thanks! 🙂
Excellent job 🙂👍
Thanks, Barry! 🙂
Nicely done Johan , great restoration of the MG1100
Thanks, Jerry! 🙂
Actually turned out better than I thought, Johan.Nice one.
Thanks! 🙂
Nice choice of car and the colour is great.
Thanks! 🙂
I think you did a great job on this model! Having the correct part for your glass was essential. Some restorers just "make do" and after the car is restored beautifully, the glass lets the whole project down. (I wonder why my eye always seems to go to the defects?) These cars were all over the roads here in the day, and the praise and knock on MGs was always they didn't do any one thing great...but all things well. Great restoration, Johan! Best, Stephen
Thanks, Stephen! Sometimes one doesn't have a choice when it comes to windows. And even third party windows are often not very good as the plastic is thicker and they don't fit too well. I was glad to have this intact window in the windows bin. This is now the second MG I did on my channel. It's a fun little model to work on. 🙂
This turned out really smart Johan
Thanks, Martin! 🙂
Great job 👍👍👍👍. Like!
Thanks! 🙂
Nice one Johan ,I'm about to do another 2 just for fun.love these tiny models
Thanks, Laz! Yes, they are great models. I think I have a couple others lying around. Might do a custom maybe in the near future.
Wow that's amazing! Lovely job buddy. Hope you and your family are all fit and well?
Thanks! Much appreciated! 🙂
Professional work 😉 looks superb now,such a classic casting brings back memories, what's the setup for the reattaching the axles 👍
Thanks! 🙂I'm using an 80 amp jewelry spot welder to melt the axle ends to a little ball. You only see the electrodes on screen. The welding unit sits under the table. You can find those on Amazon or AliExpress, just search for 'jewelry welder'.
Hello
What settings (Coarse Tune, Fine Tune, Max/Min) do you use for welding?
I don't get nice endplops for rods over 0.7mm
@@smallscalediecastgarage8987 I can't check the settings right now, but I know they are very low on my 80 Amp welder. I worked with trial and error to find the 'sweet spot'. With the toggle switch on minimum power, I started out at the lowest setting on coarse and fine, then slowly increased the settings until I got the desired result. Must be somewhere around 1 or 2 on the coarse dial. Normally you should be able to weld steel between 0.5mm and 1mm with the same setting. Keep the axle end about half a mm to 1mm from the electrode. Don't let them touch. Just a very short spark will do. Don't keep the pedal pressed for too long as this will ruin the weld, but also damage your welder.
@@BelgianDiecastRestorations Thank you, I will give it a try. I used Coarse 4.5 and Fine 7.5 with switch on Minimum for 0.5 to 0.7 because I tried how easy it was to remove the welding point and found it was more firm with these settings. I'm using a gold tungsten electrode because the red ones are thoriated and radioactive, don't know if that makes a difference.