I helped my dad change the oil of our 93 corolla and was puzzled by how to get the oil filter out from the bottom. The hot muffler and other things were in the way since we’d just had driven it. This made it very clear on removing the filter! I replaced my sisters oil on her 2011 corolla which was a bit easier than the older car. Thanks!
Thanks for the help man. I know how to do an oil change, I just couldn’t figure out where the heck the filter was on this car lol Thanks again brother.
@@nightshadekelly one of the best, most reliable, easy to work on cars you could own. I am 58 and got my 1997 corolla dx 3 1/2 years ago. had a 1995 Prizm before that (from Wisconsin-rusted out) and a 1998 Corolla LE before that (got T-boned and totaled with 316,000 miles on it.
It's good to know how much miles you have on yours. I bought 1 from a friend w/ 165,000 miles on it. I hope to use your tips and have great luck with mine by the grace of The TOYOTA GODZ!!! Thank You so much, keep the great job!!!
This was a great presentation, well done! The only thing I could add is to wipe the oil filter gasket area on the engine block in case something gets on the mating surface (though not likely), and wipe the drain plug area so you can easily spot any leakage.
Lol, I'm still driving mine, 335k miles and no major problems! Has a good amount of rust (I live in MA, USA) but I'm currently working on repairing all the rust damage
Hello! Good video, what could you tell us about a 1994 Toyota Corolla 5A-FE engine, in the manual you present I could only see what it said about the 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines.
I'm located in the United States so here we only have the 4A-FE and the 7A-FE engines. So I don't really know much about the 5A-FE. But... I can tell you that being in the same family (A series engines) it's a good engine and will probably take whatever you have to throw at it haha
I recently got an AE101 Corolla. It's my first and I'm so glad I got it. The previous owner swapped in a 5AFE. There was apparently too much oil in my engine which caused some seals to burst and leak. I will be changing the oil by myself from now on because I feel like I can't even trust a mechanic to do such a simple task. How hard is it to just not put too much oil.
Congrats on the new-to-you Corolla! They're fun. And oh, a 5A-FE, very interesting choice! As far as i know those came in Corollas in Japan only...? So it might be hard to find 5A specific parts. But I'm sure a lot of them cross over with the 4A and the 7A which were sold here in the US. As for the oil, yeah that doesn't sound great... that's what happens when you put not just a little too much oil, but A LOT too much oil. Hopefully you can fix it all!
@@AutoFixYT You're right about the parts being very rare. I managed to get it repaired for about $200.00 USD parts and labor. Yes it's a Japan only model. It's only been through one owner since 1991. I'm literally the second person to own that car. I clean it weekly and I even installed a Rockford sound system in it with a pioneer single DIN deck. Works great for now. I'm planning on doing a stage one tune which basically entails intake, exhaust and ecu tune. I just want to push it over 120BHP. It's currently running at 107BHP.
@@arunbissoon4630 for you to be able to do a ecu tune you need to get a standalone aftermarket ecu.... The stock ecu as far as i am not mistaken is obsolete to today's standards.
Thats funny I use gtx high mileage too. Glad you explained why you use 10w-40, 300k hope I get there, at 172k now. I use royal purple filters, get em on amazon for 15 dollars. Been through about 4 at 5k changes. All is good.
Nice! I'm at 330k right now, still going strong! You'll get there just keep driving ;) depending on how much and where you drive, I'd stick to 3k miles or 4k miles intervals, just because you don't want the engine to stat burning oil. Once it does (and these engines are knows for burning a lot of it) then you're past the point of no return where it's just gonna get worse and worse haha
Scotty Kilmer replaces the oil plug gasket every time, too. I got a bag off Amazon. About to change my oil now. My 1997 Toyota Corolla has 154,000. I am using full synthetic. Did not know there was an issue.
@lydiaahubbell8545 No issue at all with using full synthetic. And yes it's recommended to replace the washer but nothing bad happens if you don't. Most of the time it can be reused several times.
@ i spent 30 min trying to get my drain plug bolt out. Just found my breaker bar. I have to work many hours to make up the difference between DIY and shop oil changes.
The ones you see in this video I can't find on amazon anymore, so I can't link them :/ they must not be sold anymore. But here are the ones I have on now, I installed then this past spring: www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVR433S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7sLDbY5JHKY0
I have a 94 Corolla with a 1.6. It has a wire dipstick with the reader crimped on the end. Last time I checked my oil the tip was gone. I only assume it fell off into my oil pan. Do you think the screen would catch it? I don’t want to ruin a good engine.
It's too heavy to get to the screen. It's most likely just sitting on the bottom of the pan. You can try using a magnet through the drain plug hole but that can be challenging because it will want to get stuck to the pan. Or you can just remove the pan and get it out that way. But for now your engine will be fine, like I said it's too heavy to float so it won't even get to the screen. And if somehow it does, yes the screen will prevent it from going into the oil pump.
@@AutoFixYT awesome. My parents bought it brand new in 97 and I just recently put it over 200k miles, so I’m excited to know how to work on it. Thanks so much!
My friend in AZ has a 95 corolla with around 176k miles on it and they were wondering if it’s cool to put the same gtx blend 10W-40 in his engine. AZ is a hot state but winter is coming which is why I wanna know for sure if 10W-40 would work best since engine burn is a thing or if it would be better to put 10W-30? Or Should they use 5W-30 full synthetic?
Penzoil makes a high mileage conventional oil. 485,000 miles using Penzoil 5w20 high mileage on my 96 Prizm. Can't use synthetic cuz the engine burns it all up asap. Where did you get the oil catch can/pcv valve replacement hardware? I think my engine could use this as well. Thanks for a great video!
I wouldn't use 5w20 especially with this mileage as it is too thin for these engines, the thinnest recommended is 5w30. But hey that's a lot of miles, I wish I had that many! Haha Catch can was off of ebay and I stuffed it with steel wool
@@AutoFixYT You're right, that was a typo. I've been using 5w30 for all these miles, but now that I burn about a quart every 1,500, I might try the 10w40. Summers here are extremely hot and the winters mild anyway (central California). What was the device called on E-Bay and/or can you remember the name of the manufacturer/seller? Thanks!
Yes definitely switch to 10w40. I recommend Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w40. As for the catch can, I just bought the cheapest universal one I could find lol
How about a video changing that oil seal behind the crank pulley and timing belt, do you have one of those made yet? I am attempting this on my 96 Corolla 1.6litre with 137k miles, also putting a new water pump assembly whilst inside there, I do have the FSM for the car to help but videos sometimes are better lol
I know what you mean, that's why I make these videos. Because for me video is always better than written instructions. I need to see things being done. Anyway, no I unfortunately do not have a video that covers that. I will make one one day but not anytime soon. I did replace my timing belt and water pump a few years ago, and it was my first ever timing belt job. It went well, and it wasn't too difficult. The fact that these engines are non interference makes it less scary because if the timing is off it just won't run right or won't start. No damage to be done. Also, the water pump is not fun to do. On the 1.8L it has a crossover tube behind the engine and theres a rubber hose that connects the water pump to that crossover tube. That was the most difficult part of the job, separating the pump from that hose. You have no room whatsoever. And mine was super stuck. I ended up cutting the hose and replacing it.
I have a 4afe engine toyota corolla. It has already done 150k kilometers. Which engine oil should I use in a summer tight weather? Weather temperature is 25-35 degree celsius most of the time. In winter 17-25 degree celsius here. Please help me.
You can use 10w-30 or 10w-40 if you'd like, both are perfectly ok for those engines. I run 10w-40 all year round, even in the winter. The engines likes it better.
Welp i been using a castrol edge fully synthetic and that's when it started leaking oil through seals but its not that bad, so would switching into a synthetic blend would fix that issue? I got a wix xp filter 194k miles. 1.6 liter
It may slow down the leak but it definitely won't fix it. If there is a leak, it will leak no matter what oil you put in there. But give it a try. You don't need fancy oil for those engines anyway. Synthetic blend is the best my car has ever seen under my ownership lol.
@@AutoFixYT although is changes the idle it use to vibrate a lot with the previous oil into it, got that one fix and runs lil bit better. Idk if oil make a hugge difference on idle.
@@AutoFixYT it got a 5w30 on it, works great during startup on cold weather, I'm always impressed how this old car start up on first start and pur like a kitten. Fixing to swap the valve cover gasket cause it's leaking lil bit. Would love to dumped money on this car, like engine overhaul.
@@JalenRose02 5w-30 is perfect, that's what the engine calls for originally. So you should have no issues with that. 10w-30 is also totally acceptable per the owner's manual. I run 10w-40 and it's very happy with that too. Definitelh change the valve cover gasket if it's leaking. It will eventually make a huge mess over the whole engine if it keeps leaking. And if the engine doesn't need any rebuild I say leave it. I'm at 344k miles, 1.8L 7A-FE, no internal engine repair at all. It dies burn quite a bit of oil though lol
how to changhe oil filter on a 2 C diesel engine its too tight space i tried to use a chain tool but i couldnt turn it? its on a corolla last oil or service that shows on the previous owner card was 266 k and now its nearly to turn 275 k i check car info web site says every 10.000 kmh
I'm assuming you're asking because you want to swap a non RPM cluster for an RPM cluser... I'm not 100% and I don't want to give you the wrong answer. It might be plug and play. But again I'm not sure
@@richarddelgado9119 Yes mine is OEM. The DX models as well as the LE came with them. Go to a junkyard and get one and do some research online. I have a feeling it's plug and play but still do some research. I'm sure people have already done that so you can find the answer on forums.
@@richarddelgado9119 That's weird, not sure then. Toyota went through some odd times in the 90s lol but just go for it and get a junkyard one. Take it apart and roll the mileage to match your and put it in to see if it works
Where did you get your custom fog lights at? Been wanting to get a set of those since my daughter drives the car and the original lights are much to be desired. Thank you in advance
Those are just some mini LED light bars that I mounted on the bumper. I wired them up to a switch so I can manually turn them on whenever I want. I've gone through several types of mini light bars like that... and now I just have a full on light bar down there lol. Had to relocate the license plate. If you're looking to upgrade the lighting though, i suggest starting with a new set of headlight assemblies (unless yours rae in good condition). Preferably reflector housing with clear lens, or even projector ones. As well as LED bulbs for the low and high beams. That will be a game changer. Just make sure you get quality LEDs. Low quality ones will not only blind everyone but also not light up your path. Anyway, if you wanna add LED "fog lights" just buy whatever LEDs you want on Amazon and wire them in. I have two videos where I show how I mounted my first set of "fig light" LEDs. It's not a great video but it gets the point across. Look on my channel and you'll find them. There's part 1 and part 2. Hope this helps!
To suggest the appropriate oil I need to know more about your engine. Is it burning oil? If so, how much? How many miles does it have? What kind of driving do you do (highway/city)? Do you carry high loads often? What kind of climate do you live in?
Base on manual book, its suggest use SAE 20W-50 API SG. My car is Toyota Corolla TwinCam AE92 1990. Tropical wheater aprox 20-30 celcius, city driving. Its about 250.xxx km on going. I dont carry high load often.
Hey bud hope all is well. Any vids or advice on adding engine coolant. I think it’s low. Any preference on brand for this old Toyota? And should I premix with water? Thanks in advance.
With the engine cold, carefully open your radiator cap. Check the level there. If it's low top it off, cap it, and then fill the overflow to the "Full" line. If the radiator is already full then just top off the overflow. As for brand... it depends what you already have in there. I prefer to use Toyota Red coolant for these engines but you can very well also use universal coolant made by Peak or Prestone, either are good. You can mix red with universal but if your coolant is old you're better off flushing the system and replacing all the coolant with fresh stuff. I have used both Toyota Red and Prestone Universal as well as Peak Universal in my Toyotas and they are ok. Just make sure they contain ethylene glycol, it says it all in the owner's manual. As for the mixture, you can buy the concentrated stuff and mix it yourself (use distilled water only!) but I find it easier to buy the pre-mixed one. Hope this helps!
Hi Autofix, I have a 97 corolla and im trying to figure out if i have the 1.6 or 1.8. Can you tell the difference between them? if so what differences i should look out for?
Good question! There are several ways to find out. 1. You can type in your car's VIN into one of those VIN decoder websites and that will tell you what engine you have. This of course will only work if nobody has previously swapped the engine out for a different one. To verify this, there is a small plate right below where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. That tiny plate has a VIN engraved on it, and it should match the VIN of the vehicle. 2. There is a sticker on the underneath of the hood which contains emissions details as well as other engine information. At the bottom of the sticker it should say which engine the car came with. Again, this works if nobody has changed it out for a different one. 3. There is always a stamped engine code on the engines. Not sure where it is but if you're able to find it, it should say either "4A" or "7A". It's usually located on the lower part of the engine, not the top. Hope this helps!
92' Celica Gt 2.2 manual 5 speed here. Only 110k and I have been using the 10-40 Castrol high mileage too. I'm in So Cal and it's hot most of the time. I take 5 hour trips to see family in AZ through the desert. I use Bosch filters too. This combination seems to work well with 90s toyotas. No loud taps in my 5sfe. I change the oil every 3-4K. No sludge build up with Castrol. Thinking about getting that catch can, seems like a good idea.
Nice!! Yeah definitely get a catch can, I'd say its worth it. Really good combo, I've driven 5sfe cars but u fortunately they were all automatic. So I assume the manual bring it to life and makes it fun!
You're right those two are the appropriate oils for these engines. As I mentioned in the video, I run 10w40 because my car burns a lot of oil and has 320,000 miles. Thicker oil helps with worn out parts and reduces the amount of burnt oil. It helps with power and torque too, I notice a difference between 5w30 and 10w40
Even though I did oil change on my 7th gen Corolla few times already it was still fun to watch it, you did a very good job with this guide!| However, the only question I have. Is oil catch system really worh it? My 4AFE ran for 155k miles, and I wonder if using oil catch will help to extend it's resource. I change oil every 3k miles (and oil filter ofc)
An oil catch can is only useful if your engine has a lot of blow by. Blow by is when the pressure inside your cylinders passes by the piston rings. At that point, oil fumes start to go through the PCV system, which in turn will go into your intake manifold and then get burnt. This will not only make it so your engine indirectly burns more oil because it's burning the oil fumes, but it will also clog up your air intake over time. I had to disassemble mine and clean it. There was A LOT of build-up in there. An oil catch can will prevent this by catching all the oil fumes and allowing mostly clean air to go back into the intake. So like I said, it's only beneficial if your piston rings are worn and you have blow by. To know if you have blow by, take your oil filler cap off and put your hand or a piece of paper over the hole as the engine is idling. There shouldn't be any or very minimal air coming out. On my Corolla it pushes the oil cap right off if i put it on there without screwing it on. And once it's off it spits oil everywhere.
@@AutoFixYT thanks for detailed explanation man! Hopefully my piston rings are working fine. Really nice to see someone so devoted to comments section of his channel.
Any idea why my dipstick doesnt read the level? I put 4 quarts in, dipped in to see where it was, and nothing noticeable as how yours shows. maybe a light amount of oil was glossed over the entire stick from top to bottom, but nothing significant around the hashmarks.
Make sure you wipe it well before you do it in to check it. Fresh oil will be very clear so it can be hard to see. Also make sure you're on a flat surface. If the car is tilted in any direction it will not have an accurate reading. In the unlikely case that someone in the past replaced the dipstick, maybe they replaced it with the wrong one so it's too short. Or too long! Anyway, just make sure that the oil pan isn't bent, dipstick isn't broken or bent, and definitely make sure you're on a perfectly flat surface and that you wipe that oil dipstick well until it's completely dry before you dip it in to check the level. Let me know how it goes!
@@AutoFixYT SO! good news. I didnt see any bend. And lo and behold i complain about something, and i expect a repeat of the problem and voila! the dipstick is reading PERFECTLY! Me and the wife completed another successful oil change thanx to you.
@@AutoFixYT another observation compared the last time we did it, which was the first time, we started using the oil you used, and this time seemed to be much less that came out.
That could be as simple as needing new spark plugs... but first check your air filter and make sure the engine is getting the air it needs. Then check your spark plugs, I have a video on that. You might also want to replace the spark plug wires while you're are it.
Hi, I have a nissan b15 and has a little over 125000 miles, I live in a tropical zone and avg 18° to 28°, do you think 10w40 should be ok? or should I use 20w50 like everyone tell me to do, engine was made for 5w30.
If it doesn't burn oil I would actually use 10w30. If it does burn some oil (1qt evey 1.5-2k miles) then 10w40 should be good. If it burns A LOT of oil (like 1qt every 500-600 miles) then I suppose you can try 20w50 but know that it is very thick. So do not put that in a healthy engine that was designed for 5w30 because it will create more wear at startup over time. Thicker oil takes longer to reach the top of the engine and other small places so they will run dry for longer on startup. 10w40 is the thickest I'd go on a healthy engine that burns a little bit of oil, or if you are using the car for performace purposes. Unless you have customized your engine and modified it in such a way in which you know that 20w50 is the appropriate oil to use.
@@AutoFixYTHey thanks for reply!, Well the engine was rebuilt at some extent because it was leaking oil and coolant, we changed all gaskets, the crankshaft was grinded and the bearings changed size 0.50, before rebuilt, the exahust doesnt show any smoke, the mechanic that rebuilt it said I should use 20w50 so thats what kept me thiking...
Oh I see. What oil have you been using? In that case 20w50 might work. It's very thick oil but if the guy knows what he's doing, then you should probably follow his directions since he's the one that rebuilt it. When you custom rebuild an engine you can't go by the manufactirer's specs anymore. So 5w30 is probably not applicable anymore for you, since the crank bearings have been oversized. Thicker oil creates a stronger film between parts, meaning it protects better. The fact that the crank had to be machined and the bearings had to be oversized makes me think there was some sort of oil starvation issue on the crank, caused it to either spin a bearing or knock and created damage. So in that case don't go thinner than 10w40. It might also be a good idea to buy an oil pressure gauge and hook it up. That way you can monitor the pressure. Thicker oil makes more pressure. Too much pressure isn't good though so keep that in mind.
@@AutoFixYT It was running on 15w40 symblend (a very unknown brand, which after 1000 miles was already dark and dirty), but every morning on cold start i could hear the crankshaft knocking, right now after rebuilt it doesnt. he didnt mention if he did an oil pressure test, he just said "use 20w50 because the engine is old and has 125k miles" it's like a law here in my country "use 20w50 if the engine is old and over 100k miles" but I keep thinking after so much research the oil pump wont be able to handle it, or the piston rings wont get lubricated, or it might break something... do you think using 10w40 as a test might be bad after this rebuilt? I was about to buy that castrol on your video.
Ok I understand. Yes you're right the oil pump is not made for that thick of an oil. So I would use 10w40 and stick with that. Also 125k miles isn't that old haha my Corolla has 325k and even that isn't THAT much. But I use 10w40 and my car calls for 5w30. And the car likes it a lot better. So I recommend just use castrol gtx high mileage 10w40 and it should be happy
Excellent video and very well explained, I use the same oil in my 1996 Corolla DX.....by the way , could you make a video about how to replace the 3 belts (power steering, AC and alternator) ?
If you don't smell or see a fuel leak then it's running extremely rich. Gonna have to start with basics. Air filter, spark plugs, etc. If those check out you might wanna have someone with a scan tool monitor the sensors. MAF or MAP (whichever it has), O2 sensors, fuel trims, etc. One other thing is the timing could be off from a stretched belt, but that wouldn't affect it that much without making it run like crap. One last thing is the exhaust. Sometimes the catalytic converters are plugged up or even the mufflers, and create lots of restrictions and loss of power.
Hello my friend, your work is good, worthy of all respect and appreciation. I own a Corolla 1993 car. I follow all your videos and would like to learn from you all that concerns the maintenance of my car. I am in my high temperature and do not know what is the best quality oil to put in it. Will it benefit 10w 40 like what you put in. Please help me And I hope to have a book related to my car or catalog .. And once again thank you and thank you for your efforts and I wish you all the best.
I have celica 94 with 7AFE and it's burning oil. Manual says 5W-30 is recommended and it has that... but it also says 10w-30 is okay... just like yours. So should I use semi or mineral... should I use 10w-30 with lucas oil stabilizer... or 10w-40 with lucas oil stabilizer? see my latest video upload to see the smoke
Well, if you live in a warm climate start with some 10w-40 with no Lucas. If the car likes it and it does well, you can try adding 1/2 of a bottle of Lucas. If you are afraid it's too thick, or if you live in a cold climate, maybe try some 5w-40, or maybe 5w-30 with Lucas. Personally though I would just start with straight 10w-40. I suggest Castrol GTX High Mileage.
House Tunes Like I mentioned in the video, Castrol is a good brand and their oils are not very expensive. I usually spend about $25 on my oil and filter after tax. This price can vary depending on what filter you buy though. But definitely Castrol is my personal favorite.
I just did a 1,200 mile road trip this past week and got 35-36 mpg highway. My 1996 Corolla wagon just went over 331K miles ☺️👍. Loving the manual transmission. ❤️
you may still want to use the drain plug washer, otherwise every time you deform your oil pan a little bit, if you seal your drain plug properly. On the other hand, for a very old car with 300K plus miles, what the hack.
Haha yeah I know technically I'm supposed to use one but I never have any on hand so a lot of times for my cars I just skip it or reuse an old one. If it doesn't leak, it's good enough lol
Because that means money, time, and another car, none of which I had. I will rebuild it at some point in the bear future, assuming I'll have another vehicle to drive. Until then, it's gonna have to keep going!
@@AutoFixYT probably it need a piston ring idk I'm just guessing I'm from Singapore if I'm from there I would just buy part auto one or oreily and help you restore your engine I somehow love the 90s cat they so reliable
@@MuhamadZahin They are reliable indeed! And yes if I rebuild it I will do a full rebuild on it. Piston rings, headgasket, valve seals, and all other seals and gaskets that are needed
@ I did it! I also changed the starter in my 1995 Prizm without jacking it up (the second time). Had to take an awful lot of stuff off to do it, but It sure was easier and safer for me than to work it from below.
Go ahead but fully synthetic 10w-40 isn't going to make a difference as opposed to conventional 10w-40. If you want better fuel economy, oil isn't your enemy. It's everything else. Tire size, tire pressure, aerodynamics, the way you drive, the load you carry around, etc. Oil will play a very minimal role in this. But 10w-40 synthetic is a great choice nonetheless
Auto Fix yes I totally agree with you, but will my engine leak due to adding fully synthetic, ive always put semi synthetic on my car, next oil change will be fully synthetic and it’ll be the cars first time to have fully syn..
No it will not leak just because it's synthetic. But to be honest there isn't much of a benefit for those old engines to get full synthetic. Assuming you change it every 3-5k miles then you're not getting the most of the oil you're putting in. I believe that a synthetic blend changed every 3k miles is the way to go
@@AutoFixYT commenting after 4 years, Ok well noted. I ended up continuing with semi synthetic for the next 4 years. Car still runs great but now its time for a new car, in 6-7 months from now i plan to buy a used Civic.
Wow, i never had anyone comment back after 4 years haha thank you for the commitment and sticking around! I'm glad your Corolla is still doing well. Civics are also great cars and fun to drive!
Yes, but you have to change it less often otherwise you're wasting your money. Mine burns so much I add 1 qt every 1k miles and because of all the blow-by it gets severely contaminated and I change it every 2k miles.
@@dekacster I agree. I'd love to take this engine apart and learn how to rebuild it completely. I'm sure it wouldn't the all that difficult, just time consuming. But... I need to not need the car every day first lol
Yikes that’s the wrong oil for the car. It calls for 5w30… 10w40 goes in HD work trucks like dodge 5500s semi trucks take 15w40 for example…. That’s oil is waaaayyyy tooo thick. If you have that oil in your car during the winter you could run into serious issues…… then again it is a Corolla you could probably use water
I know it's thicker than what it calls for. But i did that on purpose. Old cars are sometimes better off with thicker oil. I've been running 10-40 for years and the engine loves it. I actually run 5-40 diesel oil now. Yes I know it's thicker than what it recommends. The owners manual does say that you can use 10-30 if it's above -18°C i believe. So the engine is designed to take a 10w. As for the 40 on the hot side... the hotter the oil gets, the better it flows. So for a worn 300k+ mile engine, 40 weight instead of 30 weight on the hot side is perfectly fine.
What with the Nancy wearing gloves 😮, and if you need service manual to change oil . Really I was changing oil when I was 5 yrs old . Not that difficult. And you are wrong about Synthetic oil , will not cause car to leak . Little hint you concern oil leak put little transmission fluid in oil . Will condition the seals
I got 10w40 yesterday. And the guy at autozone was like. "You have the wrong oil." And I was like... "i know." I use the same oil... been using Castrol GTX for years. It's gotten me to 277,000.
Haha that's funny Yeah it's good oil! I actually switched to 5w-40 diesel oil recently to help with the burning and the longevity of the oil. It was getting really really dirty, and the diesel oil is made to withstand higher temps, more dirt, and more pressure. It seems to have helped. I've always changed it every 3k miles, but in the last year befire swithing to diesel oil I've had to change my oil every 2k miles because it would burn 1qt every 1000k and it would be extremely dirty. Literally black like diesel oil after 2k miles. Now I am back to 3k mile intervals with less burning!
Doesn't matter how many miles the vehicle has, it matters how many it's been since the last change. The only way to know is to pull a sample. Sometimes this can be as little as what's on the dip stick. Smell it and look at it on a white paper towel or napkin. If it smells burnt and is black like used oil or worse, it's cooked and it's too late, don't change it. If it smells like transmission fluid still and isn't black, you can change it.
OK so I just checked it it’s not completely black, but is brown kind of like used motor oil. Is it still safe to have changed by the dealer? And also thanks for your help!
I bought them on eBay but they haven't been available there for a long time. Here's where you can find them now: www.1aauto.com/1993-97-toyota-corolla-euro-4-piece-performance-lighting-kit-depo/i/1alhz00040/
best youtube channel for 1991 - 1998 corolla. You are the man! Keep up the work. I want to keep my corolla alive for a long time!
Thank you for the kind words!! Glad I'm able to help!
I helped my dad change the oil of our 93 corolla and was puzzled by how to get the oil filter out from the bottom. The hot muffler and other things were in the way since we’d just had driven it. This made it very clear on removing the filter! I replaced my sisters oil on her 2011 corolla which was a bit easier than the older car. Thanks!
Awesome, I'm glad the video helped out!
I own a 98 Corolla. Your channel will help me a lot thankyou for taking the time to do this.
Thanks!
Thanks for the help man. I know how to do an oil change, I just couldn’t figure out where the heck the filter was on this car lol Thanks again brother.
Haha yeah it's a little hidden... glad I could help!
What I like about your channel is the basic staff that people are scared to do your channel will grow up big in the future keep up men
Thanks! That's what it's all about, do the simple stuff and then you'll learn to do the harder stuff too!
what staff, did I miss those lil yellow minions he has!?!LOL
Thanks! I just got a 96 Corolla for my 16th bday and this is definitly going to be helpful !
Nice, congrats and happy belated birthday! Let me know if you ever have any questions that I don't have videos on, happy to help!
@@nightshadekelly one of the best, most reliable, easy to work on cars you could own. I am 58 and got my 1997 corolla dx 3 1/2 years ago. had a 1995 Prizm before that (from Wisconsin-rusted out) and a 1998 Corolla LE before that (got T-boned and totaled with 316,000 miles on it.
The wife and I did this and it worked out great! Thank you!
Glad I was able to help!
It's good to know how much miles you have on yours.
I bought 1 from a friend w/ 165,000 miles on it.
I hope to use your tips and have great luck with mine by the grace of The TOYOTA GODZ!!!
Thank You so much, keep the great job!!!
Keep it going! They're great cars, easy to fix and very reliable. And fun. Lots of fun :)
This was a great presentation, well done! The only thing I could add is to wipe the oil filter gasket area on the engine block in case something gets on the mating surface (though not likely), and wipe the drain plug area so you can easily spot any leakage.
Thank you!
Very useful video man. I have a 1993 JDM spec AE101 myself as my first car
Awesome!! And thank you!
Reminds me of when I had just gotten on my red P plate racing the streets at 17 years old in my 1998 Toyota Corolla Hatchback it is surprisingly fast
They're good little cars! :)
@Auto Fix yea there really reliable I’m still driving it here today idk what Australian road standards would think of it tho
Lol, I'm still driving mine, 335k miles and no major problems! Has a good amount of rust (I live in MA, USA) but I'm currently working on repairing all the rust damage
@Auto Fix I still have the care to it’s just a paddock bashed now I live in QLD, Australia
Car*
Thanks a lot brother .. I had not seen a complete video on oil change before this!
Thanks ma guy for this good video. I will definitely do the oil change on my own in my 95 corolla. I learned 😊
👍🏻👍🏻
Very nice ae101 bro im currently building my 95dx😃
Thanks!
I thoroughly enjoyed this video.
Thank you!
Hello!
Good video, what could you tell us about a 1994 Toyota Corolla 5A-FE engine, in the manual you present I could only see what it said about the 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines.
I'm located in the United States so here we only have the 4A-FE and the 7A-FE engines. So I don't really know much about the 5A-FE. But... I can tell you that being in the same family (A series engines) it's a good engine and will probably take whatever you have to throw at it haha
It's okay! Yes, my car is a Japanese version xD
@@enmanuelmax Yeah I figured haha
Thanks bro 4 the vid, I will change the oil of my Corolla
It's an easy job, you can do it!
Hi can I use 5w40 t6 in a 94 Corolla?
@josegrullon666 yes you can
👍🏾 Thanks.
You sound like Chrisfix... can you start your next video saying “ Hey Guys!!” ? Good info! 🙏 👍🏼
Haha I like to start with "What's up guys", I don't wanna copy ChrisFix lol
I recently got an AE101 Corolla. It's my first and I'm so glad I got it. The previous owner swapped in a 5AFE. There was apparently too much oil in my engine which caused some seals to burst and leak. I will be changing the oil by myself from now on because I feel like I can't even trust a mechanic to do such a simple task. How hard is it to just not put too much oil.
Congrats on the new-to-you Corolla! They're fun. And oh, a 5A-FE, very interesting choice! As far as i know those came in Corollas in Japan only...? So it might be hard to find 5A specific parts. But I'm sure a lot of them cross over with the 4A and the 7A which were sold here in the US.
As for the oil, yeah that doesn't sound great... that's what happens when you put not just a little too much oil, but A LOT too much oil. Hopefully you can fix it all!
@@AutoFixYT You're right about the parts being very rare. I managed to get it repaired for about $200.00 USD parts and labor. Yes it's a Japan only model. It's only been through one owner since 1991. I'm literally the second person to own that car. I clean it weekly and I even installed a Rockford sound system in it with a pioneer single DIN deck. Works great for now. I'm planning on doing a stage one tune which basically entails intake, exhaust and ecu tune. I just want to push it over 120BHP. It's currently running at 107BHP.
Nice! You got yourself a gem! And yes a little bit of a power boost won't hurt, it'll wake up the car for sure!
@@arunbissoon4630 for you to be able to do a ecu tune you need to get a standalone aftermarket ecu.... The stock ecu as far as i am not mistaken is obsolete to today's standards.
Do a raidiator flush and top up vid for the corolla broski @Auto Fix
Radiator video is in the works actually! My radiator cracked so I have a new one to replace it with. Video coming in the next few weeks!
Thats funny I use gtx high mileage too. Glad you explained why you use 10w-40, 300k hope I get there, at 172k now. I use royal purple filters, get em on amazon for 15 dollars. Been through about 4 at 5k changes. All is good.
Nice! I'm at 330k right now, still going strong! You'll get there just keep driving ;) depending on how much and where you drive, I'd stick to 3k miles or 4k miles intervals, just because you don't want the engine to stat burning oil. Once it does (and these engines are knows for burning a lot of it) then you're past the point of no return where it's just gonna get worse and worse haha
@@AutoFixYT Ya it burns some oil but nothing too crazy. Oil cheap, new car expensive.
Yup haha
Scotty Kilmer replaces the oil plug gasket every time, too. I got a bag off Amazon. About to change my oil now. My 1997 Toyota Corolla has 154,000. I am using full synthetic. Did not know there was an issue.
@lydiaahubbell8545 No issue at all with using full synthetic. And yes it's recommended to replace the washer but nothing bad happens if you don't. Most of the time it can be reused several times.
@ i spent 30 min trying to get my drain plug bolt out. Just found my breaker bar. I have to work many hours to make up the difference between DIY and shop oil changes.
@@lydiaahubbell8545 It's always more difficult at first, but the more times you do it the faster it gets!
so u replaced the led lights in the bumper. link to those please, thanks
The ones you see in this video I can't find on amazon anymore, so I can't link them :/ they must not be sold anymore. But here are the ones I have on now, I installed then this past spring: www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVR433S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7sLDbY5JHKY0
You explain the procedure very well. Thank you.
Thank you!
Could you upload a video of how to install oil catch can toyota corolla Wagon DX 1994
I'll add that to my list!
I have a 94 Corolla with a 1.6. It has a wire dipstick with the reader crimped on the end. Last time I checked my oil the tip was gone. I only assume it fell off into my oil pan. Do you think the screen would catch it? I don’t want to ruin a good engine.
It's too heavy to get to the screen. It's most likely just sitting on the bottom of the pan. You can try using a magnet through the drain plug hole but that can be challenging because it will want to get stuck to the pan. Or you can just remove the pan and get it out that way. But for now your engine will be fine, like I said it's too heavy to float so it won't even get to the screen. And if somehow it does, yes the screen will prevent it from going into the oil pump.
Is this the same process and layout for a '97 Geo Prizm? Seeing as they're basically the same cars. Thanks!
Yes.
@@AutoFixYT awesome. My parents bought it brand new in 97 and I just recently put it over 200k miles, so I’m excited to know how to work on it. Thanks so much!
Thought you were chrisfix for a second😂
Haha no but I am a big fan of ChrisFix :)
I can see the similarities xD great vid
Thanks!
My friend in AZ has a 95 corolla with around 176k miles on it and they were wondering if it’s cool to put the same gtx blend 10W-40 in his engine. AZ is a hot state but winter is coming which is why I wanna know for sure if 10W-40 would work best since engine burn is a thing or if it would be better to put 10W-30? Or Should they use 5W-30 full synthetic?
10w-40 is just fine for those engines. I run 10w-40 all year round, engine is happier than with 5w-30.
Penzoil makes a high mileage conventional oil. 485,000 miles using Penzoil 5w20 high mileage on my 96 Prizm. Can't use synthetic cuz the engine burns it all up asap.
Where did you get the oil catch can/pcv valve replacement hardware? I think my engine could use this as well. Thanks for a great video!
I wouldn't use 5w20 especially with this mileage as it is too thin for these engines, the thinnest recommended is 5w30. But hey that's a lot of miles, I wish I had that many! Haha
Catch can was off of ebay and I stuffed it with steel wool
@@AutoFixYT You're right, that was a typo. I've been using 5w30 for all these miles, but now that I burn about a quart every 1,500, I might try the 10w40. Summers here are extremely hot and the winters mild anyway (central California).
What was the device called on E-Bay and/or can you remember the name of the manufacturer/seller?
Thanks!
Yes definitely switch to 10w40. I recommend Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w40. As for the catch can, I just bought the cheapest universal one I could find lol
How about a video changing that oil seal behind the crank pulley and timing belt, do you have one of those made yet? I am attempting this on my 96 Corolla 1.6litre with 137k miles, also putting a new water pump assembly whilst inside there, I do have the FSM for the car to help but videos sometimes are better lol
I know what you mean, that's why I make these videos. Because for me video is always better than written instructions. I need to see things being done.
Anyway, no I unfortunately do not have a video that covers that. I will make one one day but not anytime soon. I did replace my timing belt and water pump a few years ago, and it was my first ever timing belt job. It went well, and it wasn't too difficult. The fact that these engines are non interference makes it less scary because if the timing is off it just won't run right or won't start. No damage to be done.
Also, the water pump is not fun to do. On the 1.8L it has a crossover tube behind the engine and theres a rubber hose that connects the water pump to that crossover tube. That was the most difficult part of the job, separating the pump from that hose. You have no room whatsoever. And mine was super stuck. I ended up cutting the hose and replacing it.
Woah, learned some new techniques thanks!
I have a 4afe engine toyota corolla. It has already done 150k kilometers. Which engine oil should I use in a summer tight weather? Weather temperature is 25-35 degree celsius most of the time. In winter 17-25 degree celsius here. Please help me.
You can use 10w-30 or 10w-40 if you'd like, both are perfectly ok for those engines. I run 10w-40 all year round, even in the winter. The engines likes it better.
Welp i been using a castrol edge fully synthetic and that's when it started leaking oil through seals but its not that bad, so would switching into a synthetic blend would fix that issue? I got a wix xp filter 194k miles. 1.6 liter
It may slow down the leak but it definitely won't fix it. If there is a leak, it will leak no matter what oil you put in there. But give it a try. You don't need fancy oil for those engines anyway. Synthetic blend is the best my car has ever seen under my ownership lol.
@@AutoFixYT although is changes the idle it use to vibrate a lot with the previous oil into it, got that one fix and runs lil bit better. Idk if oil make a hugge difference on idle.
@@JalenRose02 It shouldn't unless you're using oil that's way too thick or way too thin such as 20w-50 or 0w-20
@@AutoFixYT it got a 5w30 on it, works great during startup on cold weather, I'm always impressed how this old car start up on first start and pur like a kitten. Fixing to swap the valve cover gasket cause it's leaking lil bit. Would love to dumped money on this car, like engine overhaul.
@@JalenRose02 5w-30 is perfect, that's what the engine calls for originally. So you should have no issues with that. 10w-30 is also totally acceptable per the owner's manual. I run 10w-40 and it's very happy with that too.
Definitelh change the valve cover gasket if it's leaking. It will eventually make a huge mess over the whole engine if it keeps leaking.
And if the engine doesn't need any rebuild I say leave it. I'm at 344k miles, 1.8L 7A-FE, no internal engine repair at all. It dies burn quite a bit of oil though lol
how to changhe oil filter on a 2 C diesel engine its too tight space i tried to use a chain tool but i couldnt turn it? its on a corolla last oil or service that shows on the previous owner card was 266 k and now its nearly to turn 275 k i check car info web site says every 10.000 kmh
For the cluster with the revs are plug and play or they’re some rewiring need to be done?
I'm assuming you're asking because you want to swap a non RPM cluster for an RPM cluser... I'm not 100% and I don't want to give you the wrong answer. It might be plug and play. But again I'm not sure
Auto Fix yes that is what i wanted to do, yours are oem with the car?
I have a non revs cluster and love to change at one time
@@richarddelgado9119 Yes mine is OEM. The DX models as well as the LE came with them. Go to a junkyard and get one and do some research online. I have a feeling it's plug and play but still do some research. I'm sure people have already done that so you can find the answer on forums.
Auto Fix mine’s a 94 dx and doesn’t have it
@@richarddelgado9119 That's weird, not sure then. Toyota went through some odd times in the 90s lol but just go for it and get a junkyard one. Take it apart and roll the mileage to match your and put it in to see if it works
Where did you get your custom fog lights at? Been wanting to get a set of those since my daughter drives the car and the original lights are much to be desired. Thank you in advance
Those are just some mini LED light bars that I mounted on the bumper. I wired them up to a switch so I can manually turn them on whenever I want. I've gone through several types of mini light bars like that... and now I just have a full on light bar down there lol. Had to relocate the license plate.
If you're looking to upgrade the lighting though, i suggest starting with a new set of headlight assemblies (unless yours rae in good condition). Preferably reflector housing with clear lens, or even projector ones. As well as LED bulbs for the low and high beams. That will be a game changer. Just make sure you get quality LEDs. Low quality ones will not only blind everyone but also not light up your path.
Anyway, if you wanna add LED "fog lights" just buy whatever LEDs you want on Amazon and wire them in. I have two videos where I show how I mounted my first set of "fig light" LEDs. It's not a great video but it gets the point across. Look on my channel and you'll find them. There's part 1 and part 2.
Hope this helps!
Where did you place the jack stands?
Right on the frame rails. You can also use the pinch welds or the front subframe.
Great video dude, would you please choose for me a suitable oil for corolla 4AF engine. Thanks for the answer.
To suggest the appropriate oil I need to know more about your engine. Is it burning oil? If so, how much? How many miles does it have? What kind of driving do you do (highway/city)? Do you carry high loads often? What kind of climate do you live in?
Base on manual book, its suggest use SAE 20W-50 API SG. My car is Toyota Corolla TwinCam AE92 1990. Tropical wheater aprox 20-30 celcius, city driving.
Its about 250.xxx km on going. I dont carry high load often.
You can use 20w50 is the owner's manual says it's ok to use. Change it every 5000 km and it should be good!
Hey bud hope all is well.
Any vids or advice on adding engine coolant. I think it’s low. Any preference on brand for this old Toyota? And should I premix with water?
Thanks in advance.
With the engine cold, carefully open your radiator cap. Check the level there. If it's low top it off, cap it, and then fill the overflow to the "Full" line. If the radiator is already full then just top off the overflow.
As for brand... it depends what you already have in there. I prefer to use Toyota Red coolant for these engines but you can very well also use universal coolant made by Peak or Prestone, either are good. You can mix red with universal but if your coolant is old you're better off flushing the system and replacing all the coolant with fresh stuff.
I have used both Toyota Red and Prestone Universal as well as Peak Universal in my Toyotas and they are ok. Just make sure they contain ethylene glycol, it says it all in the owner's manual.
As for the mixture, you can buy the concentrated stuff and mix it yourself (use distilled water only!) but I find it easier to buy the pre-mixed one.
Hope this helps!
Hi Autofix, I have a 97 corolla and im trying to figure out if i have the 1.6 or 1.8. Can you tell the difference between them? if so what differences i should look out for?
Good question! There are several ways to find out.
1. You can type in your car's VIN into one of those VIN decoder websites and that will tell you what engine you have. This of course will only work if nobody has previously swapped the engine out for a different one. To verify this, there is a small plate right below where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. That tiny plate has a VIN engraved on it, and it should match the VIN of the vehicle.
2. There is a sticker on the underneath of the hood which contains emissions details as well as other engine information. At the bottom of the sticker it should say which engine the car came with. Again, this works if nobody has changed it out for a different one.
3. There is always a stamped engine code on the engines. Not sure where it is but if you're able to find it, it should say either "4A" or "7A". It's usually located on the lower part of the engine, not the top.
Hope this helps!
@@AutoFixYT under the hood sticker mentions both engines and the bottom part of it says 4afe and a barcode with numbers
@@johndasilva66 if the very bottom in bolt front it says 4afe then that's what you have. You can double check this with the VIN decoder websites
92' Celica Gt 2.2 manual 5 speed here. Only 110k and I have been using the 10-40 Castrol high mileage too. I'm in So Cal and it's hot most of the time. I take 5 hour trips to see family in AZ through the desert. I use Bosch filters too. This combination seems to work well with 90s toyotas. No loud taps in my 5sfe. I change the oil every 3-4K. No sludge build up with Castrol. Thinking about getting that catch can, seems like a good idea.
Nice!! Yeah definitely get a catch can, I'd say its worth it. Really good combo, I've driven 5sfe cars but u fortunately they were all automatic. So I assume the manual bring it to life and makes it fun!
My corolla 4AFE. I checked my owner manual. It say recommend 10w30 or 5w30. Why you bought 10w40?
You're right those two are the appropriate oils for these engines. As I mentioned in the video, I run 10w40 because my car burns a lot of oil and has 320,000 miles. Thicker oil helps with worn out parts and reduces the amount of burnt oil. It helps with power and torque too, I notice a difference between 5w30 and 10w40
@@AutoFixYT oh I see. Interested.
A ton of help, thank you
Should I tell my auto technician to add an oil catcher to my Toyota Corolla DX 1991 with 133,000 mil es ?
No, 133k miles is not much, you should be ok without one
Auto Fix , @ Auto Fix , Thank you so much for your quick response; The oil change video is practical and details-focused ! Keep up the good work .
@@sidibouchrit Thanks!
Even though I did oil change on my 7th gen Corolla few times already it was still fun to watch it, you did a very good job with this guide!|
However, the only question I have. Is oil catch system really worh it? My 4AFE ran for 155k miles, and I wonder if using oil catch will help to extend it's resource. I change oil every 3k miles (and oil filter ofc)
Thank you!
An oil catch can is only useful if your engine has a lot of blow by. Blow by is when the pressure inside your cylinders passes by the piston rings. At that point, oil fumes start to go through the PCV system, which in turn will go into your intake manifold and then get burnt. This will not only make it so your engine indirectly burns more oil because it's burning the oil fumes, but it will also clog up your air intake over time. I had to disassemble mine and clean it. There was A LOT of build-up in there. An oil catch can will prevent this by catching all the oil fumes and allowing mostly clean air to go back into the intake. So like I said, it's only beneficial if your piston rings are worn and you have blow by. To know if you have blow by, take your oil filler cap off and put your hand or a piece of paper over the hole as the engine is idling. There shouldn't be any or very minimal air coming out. On my Corolla it pushes the oil cap right off if i put it on there without screwing it on. And once it's off it spits oil everywhere.
@@AutoFixYT thanks for detailed explanation man! Hopefully my piston rings are working fine. Really nice to see someone so devoted to comments section of his channel.
Thank you! I always want to do my best at informing fellow car enthusiasts as much as I can.
Isn't current thinking that for most people every 5000 miles is fine?
What size tyres have you got on there. Ive got a 95 ae101 corolla and the tyres are a lot more narrow than yours.
Factory tire size is 185/65R14 which is what I use for winter tires. In the summer I switch to 205/50R16 for much better performance and look
Any idea why my dipstick doesnt read the level?
I put 4 quarts in, dipped in to see where it was, and nothing noticeable as how yours shows. maybe a light amount of oil was glossed over the entire stick from top to bottom, but nothing significant around the hashmarks.
Make sure you wipe it well before you do it in to check it. Fresh oil will be very clear so it can be hard to see. Also make sure you're on a flat surface. If the car is tilted in any direction it will not have an accurate reading. In the unlikely case that someone in the past replaced the dipstick, maybe they replaced it with the wrong one so it's too short. Or too long! Anyway, just make sure that the oil pan isn't bent, dipstick isn't broken or bent, and definitely make sure you're on a perfectly flat surface and that you wipe that oil dipstick well until it's completely dry before you dip it in to check the level. Let me know how it goes!
@@AutoFixYT Didnt know about a bent oil pan. gonna make a change later today i'll let you know what i see.
@@Allsportstees Ok. Just make sure everything looks the way it should. If the oil pan is bent it can change the reading.
@@AutoFixYT SO! good news. I didnt see any bend. And lo and behold i complain about something, and i expect a repeat of the problem and voila! the dipstick is reading PERFECTLY!
Me and the wife completed another successful oil change thanx to you.
@@AutoFixYT another observation compared the last time we did it, which was the first time, we started using the oil you used, and this time seemed to be much less that came out.
Can I open the oil filter without draining oil?
Yes you can
@@AutoFixYT thanks mate. Cheers!
How many letters changes oil in Toyota Corolla love life 1.6 GLi
You will have to check your owner's manual for that engine, I'm not sure. Probably about 4.
I did a oil change on my 96 corrolla today and it took almost 5 quarts idk why it didnt take that much before.
That's... odd haha
Chrisfix's brother or even might be himself since he sounds so alike
Lol not even closely related but I am a big fan of his
Thank you i have a corolla 1991 en in the futer i will change it my self.again thank you💪🏻❤
Awesome!
@@AutoFixYT i did it was easy.but i have a other prob.my car trip when i give gas😪😪
That could be as simple as needing new spark plugs... but first check your air filter and make sure the engine is getting the air it needs. Then check your spark plugs, I have a video on that. You might also want to replace the spark plug wires while you're are it.
Hi, I have a nissan b15 and has a little over 125000 miles, I live in a tropical zone and avg 18° to 28°, do you think 10w40 should be ok? or should I use 20w50 like everyone tell me to do, engine was made for 5w30.
If it doesn't burn oil I would actually use 10w30. If it does burn some oil (1qt evey 1.5-2k miles) then 10w40 should be good. If it burns A LOT of oil (like 1qt every 500-600 miles) then I suppose you can try 20w50 but know that it is very thick. So do not put that in a healthy engine that was designed for 5w30 because it will create more wear at startup over time. Thicker oil takes longer to reach the top of the engine and other small places so they will run dry for longer on startup. 10w40 is the thickest I'd go on a healthy engine that burns a little bit of oil, or if you are using the car for performace purposes. Unless you have customized your engine and modified it in such a way in which you know that 20w50 is the appropriate oil to use.
@@AutoFixYTHey thanks for reply!, Well the engine was rebuilt at some extent because it was leaking oil and coolant, we changed all gaskets, the crankshaft was grinded and the bearings changed size 0.50, before rebuilt, the exahust doesnt show any smoke, the mechanic that rebuilt it said I should use 20w50 so thats what kept me thiking...
Oh I see. What oil have you been using? In that case 20w50 might work. It's very thick oil but if the guy knows what he's doing, then you should probably follow his directions since he's the one that rebuilt it.
When you custom rebuild an engine you can't go by the manufactirer's specs anymore. So 5w30 is probably not applicable anymore for you, since the crank bearings have been oversized. Thicker oil creates a stronger film between parts, meaning it protects better.
The fact that the crank had to be machined and the bearings had to be oversized makes me think there was some sort of oil starvation issue on the crank, caused it to either spin a bearing or knock and created damage.
So in that case don't go thinner than 10w40. It might also be a good idea to buy an oil pressure gauge and hook it up. That way you can monitor the pressure. Thicker oil makes more pressure. Too much pressure isn't good though so keep that in mind.
@@AutoFixYT It was running on 15w40 symblend (a very unknown brand, which after 1000 miles was already dark and dirty), but every morning on cold start i could hear the crankshaft knocking, right now after rebuilt it doesnt. he didnt mention if he did an oil pressure test, he just said "use 20w50 because the engine is old and has 125k miles" it's like a law here in my country "use 20w50 if the engine is old and over 100k miles" but I keep thinking after so much research the oil pump wont be able to handle it, or the piston rings wont get lubricated, or it might break something... do you think using 10w40 as a test might be bad after this rebuilt? I was about to buy that castrol on your video.
Ok I understand. Yes you're right the oil pump is not made for that thick of an oil. So I would use 10w40 and stick with that.
Also 125k miles isn't that old haha my Corolla has 325k and even that isn't THAT much. But I use 10w40 and my car calls for 5w30. And the car likes it a lot better. So I recommend just use castrol gtx high mileage 10w40 and it should be happy
Nice vid 👍
Thanks!
really helpful video. thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Awesome video
Thank you!
So much info thanks 👍 bro
Excellent video and very well explained, I use the same oil in my 1996 Corolla DX.....by the way , could you make a video about how to replace the 3 belts (power steering, AC and alternator) ?
Daniel Lizaola Thank you! Yes for sure, I have to change those belts on my car very soon so that video will definitely be out in a month or so!
Auto Fix That's sounds great!!!
I will like to see that video too!!
Video is out now, a year later... lol :)
Sometimes going to the mechanic beats fiddling with my car on my days off.
I bought this exact same model the other day but it’s burning gas badly like a whole tank of gas within a 2.5 hour drive and idk what to do 😢
If you don't smell or see a fuel leak then it's running extremely rich. Gonna have to start with basics. Air filter, spark plugs, etc. If those check out you might wanna have someone with a scan tool monitor the sensors. MAF or MAP (whichever it has), O2 sensors, fuel trims, etc. One other thing is the timing could be off from a stretched belt, but that wouldn't affect it that much without making it run like crap. One last thing is the exhaust. Sometimes the catalytic converters are plugged up or even the mufflers, and create lots of restrictions and loss of power.
@@AutoFixYT thanks a lot
Hello my friend, your work is good, worthy of all respect and appreciation. I own a Corolla 1993 car. I follow all your videos and would like to learn from you all that concerns the maintenance of my car. I am in my high temperature and do not know what is the best quality oil to put in it. Will it benefit 10w 40 like what you put in. Please help me And I hope to have a book related to my car or catalog .. And once again thank you and thank you for your efforts and I wish you all the best.
Thank you! Yes 10w-40 will be perfect for it if you are in high temperaturile areas.
I have celica 94 with 7AFE and it's burning oil. Manual says 5W-30 is recommended and it has that... but it also says 10w-30 is okay... just like yours.
So should I use semi or mineral... should I use 10w-30 with lucas oil stabilizer... or 10w-40 with lucas oil stabilizer?
see my latest video upload to see the smoke
Well, if you live in a warm climate start with some 10w-40 with no Lucas. If the car likes it and it does well, you can try adding 1/2 of a bottle of Lucas. If you are afraid it's too thick, or if you live in a cold climate, maybe try some 5w-40, or maybe 5w-30 with Lucas.
Personally though I would just start with straight 10w-40. I suggest Castrol GTX High Mileage.
What oil brand do you recommend, quality and price wise?
House Tunes Like I mentioned in the video, Castrol is a good brand and their oils are not very expensive. I usually spend about $25 on my oil and filter after tax. This price can vary depending on what filter you buy though. But definitely Castrol is my personal favorite.
Chris Fix 🔥🔥💯
I am a big fan of Chris Fix's work
How much engine oil is Corolla 99?
I think 4 quarts but check the owners manual. You can also look at the dip stick after you're done and make sure it's full.
Nice vid
The Derp Wolf Thanks!! :)
What's next to the filter, it's a cable that can be plugged in.
thanks for video
You're welcome!
Whats the fuel average
In the winter I get anywhere between 32-34. In the summer 34-38 depending on how I drive lol
I just did a 1,200 mile road trip this past week and got 35-36 mpg highway. My 1996 Corolla wagon just went over 331K miles ☺️👍. Loving the manual transmission. ❤️
Awesome! You're catching up to me, I'm almost at 353k haha
Nice video. 300K mile car! But seems like you can change oil without jacking up the car.
Yes you can change it without jacking it up, that's how I usually do it. But for video it was easier to jack it up.
And yes, 340k miles right now! :)
you may still want to use the drain plug washer, otherwise every time you deform your oil pan a little bit, if you seal your drain plug properly. On the other hand, for a very old car with 300K plus miles, what the hack.
Haha yeah I know technically I'm supposed to use one but I never have any on hand so a lot of times for my cars I just skip it or reuse an old one. If it doesn't leak, it's good enough lol
i use clean oil on my
seal
@@lydiaahubbell8545 that's good
I miss my dads old 97 😥
Yeah they're awesome cars!
Very nice you toyota corolla 👍
Thank you!
Please manual PDF
You can find it online
I cannot get the filter off for the life of me, I’ve tried EVERYTHING
Yeah sometimes they're way too tight on there. I have had to use a giant pipe wrench
Why didn't you overhaul the engine
Because that means money, time, and another car, none of which I had. I will rebuild it at some point in the bear future, assuming I'll have another vehicle to drive. Until then, it's gonna have to keep going!
@@AutoFixYT probably it need a piston ring idk I'm just guessing I'm from Singapore if I'm from there I would just buy part auto one or oreily and help you restore your engine I somehow love the 90s cat they so reliable
@@MuhamadZahin They are reliable indeed! And yes if I rebuild it I will do a full rebuild on it. Piston rings, headgasket, valve seals, and all other seals and gaskets that are needed
I guess I will try to change mine without jacking up
It's doable, I've done it. You just have to reach in there.
@ I did it! I also changed the starter in my 1995 Prizm without jacking it up (the second time). Had to take an awful lot of stuff off to do it, but It sure was easier and safer for me than to work it from below.
You sound like a older Chrisfix.
Lol I'm much younger than ChrisFix but I am a huge fan of his. He makes great content!
Well, i have subscribed nonetheless. I was able to do my first oil change thanks to you. Keep up with the great videos.
@@kizito8888 That's awesome, I'm glad I was able to help!
🎉🎉🎉
The video could ve been better without the background music. Info is valuable but the music just kinda get in the way of you speaking
Yes, that's why my new videos don't have music anymore. Old me thought that was cool lol. Anyway, thanks for the comment!
But I want good fuel economy, so I want fully synthetic, I have a corolla over 260000 miles , so maybe 10w-40 fully synthetic
Go ahead but fully synthetic 10w-40 isn't going to make a difference as opposed to conventional 10w-40. If you want better fuel economy, oil isn't your enemy. It's everything else. Tire size, tire pressure, aerodynamics, the way you drive, the load you carry around, etc. Oil will play a very minimal role in this. But 10w-40 synthetic is a great choice nonetheless
Auto Fix yes I totally agree with you, but will my engine leak due to adding fully synthetic, ive always put semi synthetic on my car, next oil change will be fully synthetic and it’ll be the cars first time to have fully syn..
No it will not leak just because it's synthetic. But to be honest there isn't much of a benefit for those old engines to get full synthetic. Assuming you change it every 3-5k miles then you're not getting the most of the oil you're putting in. I believe that a synthetic blend changed every 3k miles is the way to go
@@AutoFixYT commenting after 4 years, Ok well noted. I ended up continuing with semi synthetic for the next 4 years. Car still runs great but now its time for a new car, in 6-7 months from now i plan to buy a used Civic.
Wow, i never had anyone comment back after 4 years haha thank you for the commitment and sticking around! I'm glad your Corolla is still doing well. Civics are also great cars and fun to drive!
Nice ride xd
Thanks!
You can run synthetic….
Yes, but you have to change it less often otherwise you're wasting your money. Mine burns so much I add 1 qt every 1k miles and because of all the blow-by it gets severely contaminated and I change it every 2k miles.
Synthetic provides far more protection. Do your research dude. Explaining your oil preference is not necessary for this video.
man this thing eats oil :/
Yes it does but I've seen much worse haha
for 320k miles its quite ok. maybe a good hauling is earned.
@@dekacster I agree. I'd love to take this engine apart and learn how to rebuild it completely. I'm sure it wouldn't the all that difficult, just time consuming. But... I need to not need the car every day first lol
Yikes that’s the wrong oil for the car. It calls for 5w30… 10w40 goes in HD work trucks like dodge 5500s semi trucks take 15w40 for example…. That’s oil is waaaayyyy tooo thick. If you have that oil in your car during the winter you could run into serious issues…… then again it is a Corolla you could probably use water
I know it's thicker than what it calls for. But i did that on purpose. Old cars are sometimes better off with thicker oil. I've been running 10-40 for years and the engine loves it. I actually run 5-40 diesel oil now. Yes I know it's thicker than what it recommends. The owners manual does say that you can use 10-30 if it's above -18°C i believe. So the engine is designed to take a 10w. As for the 40 on the hot side... the hotter the oil gets, the better it flows. So for a worn 300k+ mile engine, 40 weight instead of 30 weight on the hot side is perfectly fine.
What with the Nancy wearing gloves 😮, and if you need service manual to change oil . Really I was changing oil when I was 5 yrs old . Not that difficult. And you are wrong about
Synthetic oil , will not cause car to leak . Little hint you concern oil leak put little transmission fluid in oil . Will condition the seals
Türk var mı
Wtf u should drain sump first wtf
I do drain the oil first
I got 10w40 yesterday. And the guy at autozone was like. "You have the wrong oil." And I was like... "i know."
I use the same oil... been using Castrol GTX for years. It's gotten me to 277,000.
Haha that's funny
Yeah it's good oil! I actually switched to 5w-40 diesel oil recently to help with the burning and the longevity of the oil. It was getting really really dirty, and the diesel oil is made to withstand higher temps, more dirt, and more pressure. It seems to have helped. I've always changed it every 3k miles, but in the last year befire swithing to diesel oil I've had to change my oil every 2k miles because it would burn 1qt every 1000k and it would be extremely dirty. Literally black like diesel oil after 2k miles. Now I am back to 3k mile intervals with less burning!
Would you recommend me changing the transmission fluid on my 300 K mile one will it be safe? I don’t think it’s been done in a while.
Doesn't matter how many miles the vehicle has, it matters how many it's been since the last change. The only way to know is to pull a sample. Sometimes this can be as little as what's on the dip stick. Smell it and look at it on a white paper towel or napkin. If it smells burnt and is black like used oil or worse, it's cooked and it's too late, don't change it. If it smells like transmission fluid still and isn't black, you can change it.
OK so I just checked it it’s not completely black, but is brown kind of like used motor oil. Is it still safe to have changed by the dealer? And also thanks for your help!
@coleromani8420 if you don't think it smells burnt then yeah have them change it. Not flush it, just drain and fill.
@@AutoFixYT thanks for your advice 👍
From where did you buy the headlights
I bought them on eBay but they haven't been available there for a long time. Here's where you can find them now:
www.1aauto.com/1993-97-toyota-corolla-euro-4-piece-performance-lighting-kit-depo/i/1alhz00040/
@@AutoFixYT thank you. Is malisian brand new headlights good?
@@atf9393 I have no idea but if it's new vs old, new is always better
@@AutoFixYT thanks bro