I’m surprise, you had it down to the bare frame would have been a good time to either sandblast or chip it down and paint the entire trailer. You got a decent value for your effort and $. Now your ready to make some $$$.
you should run all the wires through conduit that goes through the frame rails. this way they are protected from both chassis abrasion and road debris impacts. also a small battery with some sacrificial zinc would be a good investment. or a big battery, winch and zinc.
Hey. Just a tip from someone who has used at least ten thousand of the 3-m marine connectors. If you are splicing two wires into one end. While the glue is still hot take you cutters and crimp in between the wires in-line with them. Just do it gently. It separates the wires and let’s the glue get all the way around them. Keeps the water out.
Just be aware that the wheels and tires you bought were "mobile home only". noted by the "mh" in the tire size on the side wall. they are basically a one time use tire. not intended for "trailer service". many people run them for years without any issues at all. however, if you would run them on a commercial vehicle you would likely put out of service. the hubless center wheels use to very popular on equipment trailers. the overall diameter made them attractive as it could be a low deck. very nice common sense approach with emphasis on safety. i really enjoyed this entire video. well done. i may be wrong but i believe the dozer needs a chain over the blade.
We have a tri axle trailer with mobile home wheels as well we pull it behind the rollback and haul 22 rolls of hay no problem 1,500lb round bales 11 on the truck 11 on the trailer.
I originally used to hate that style of wheel. After working with those axles, bearings, wheels I’ve actually come to like them. Pretty easy to work with
That's a really nice trailer for being in Michigan. I moved to north Idaho from Traverse city about 11 years ago and was honestly amazed at how little rust there is in this area. They don't use salt on the roads they just plow and then use crushed rock on the hills and curves, even on the mountain roads.
reminds me of the mobile home frame i turned into a deck over equipment trailer almost 10 years ago. as an apprentice auto mechanic i made some not so perfect trailer design decisions. but i ended up selling it on as a partially finished project to a diesel mechanic. made a couple hundred bucks and and learned a lot during the process
Don't cross the chains - pull to the closest point - 4 individual binders and you may have to throw one over the blade - ask or look up your areas dot requirements, they'll be the ones to rake you over the coals if you aren't to their standard, I like the trailer and how you improved it
@@dieseJL in some cases you have to - if either of the crossed ones fails the load can shift to the remaining chain and it will also be useless as well - V-belt and son added shackles to his mecalak (recent video) so as to eliminate the need of chains but he added them so the binders pull fore and aft which a better way any one could fail and there is very little room for it's counter part to loosen
Never has any dot said anything about that to me, literally looks fine..you should read the fmcsa securment handbook..has nothing to do with the dot in his area..Would chain the blade down tho.
@@leejohnson6173 th-cam.com/video/TIC7URvAqmM/w-d-xo.html this is the example that changed my mind - to each his own it just seems simple enough to avoid this when possible
Why would you not cross chains? In the marine corps one of the biggest things i learned during equipment movements. is Cross the chains when you're dogging down equipment. Seen a tank get dogged down on a ship and slide about 2 feet when the ship listed hard. its chains were not crossed. we cross chains when dogging down Amphibious assault vehicles on trailers. its good enough to keep a very high very heavy load on the trailer in rough terrain we also Cross the chains on equipment in aircraft and on Rail heads (loaded onto train cars) if crossing chains is bad give a good reason its bad its better load securement. it is better at keeping the load centered. and isn't as awkward tying down. i think the chain it to the closest point when it comes to equipment is just a old trucker myth because fat or lazy to cross the chains and actually get up onto the trailer and cross them. Crossing them takes 5 extra minutes at most for 4 chains. and offers plethora of benefits. the only type of securement i think you wouldn't want to cross is Straps. and cables. they can chafe and bind and rub through one another and break. reason for using chains is chains won't rub through each other or get rubbed through by whatever you're tying down.
Nice job on the Trailer. That is a solid trailer. Yes brakes run a dedicated ground. Also be very careful buying used tires. That trailer might look like mobile home axels and tires but there not. There dedicated low platform tires. Mobile home tires might be the same size but not the ply or load range, in fact they will say on the sidewall Not For Highway Use. As long as those wheel Spiders are true and tight to the wheel, no Problem, Thanks for Sharing
@@dieseJL You did fine with your chains whatever your comfortable with. As someone who's been around trucking/heavy equipment for over 50years we do just hook to the track pads on all four corners, and pull down and back. never a issue. and hang a chain over blade, bucket whatever attachment.
As for binding yes you can use the track pads as a chaining point. Use the center of the pads only, depending on the weight of the machine and your binder WLL you can use a binder only but you only get 1/2 the WLL .
My trailer is homemade, I hauled my D4 Cat and C4 Skidder on the same wheels and tires. Like I said 100 in old tires. The 14ply 8-14.5 I have are 115# . Run lots of air and no tire issue. If middle of tire wearing out before outside then you have enough air.
I have a large dump trailer with those types of axles and tires and hubs normally I run 90 pounds of air That's what the company told me that I bought the tires from to keep them from popping off the rim Cause that's what I was having problems with Just make sure you call and confirm Air pressure And also great looking trailer
Those brake kits are the same brand I bought/used and I think they work great. Apply axle grease to wiring contacts to keep rust away or dielectric grease. Using conduit also helps a lot, I painted my conduit inside and out. It wasn't easy but it hasn't rusted at all..
Lincoln ultracore welding wire is what I’ve always used on heavy equipment. Not only does it hold great and weld in every position it also makes a mediocre welder like myself look like a pro!!
Looks good and youve doon well your researce and finds! A helpfull hint for you to save all your wood is save some of your used motor oil for coating the deck its good cheap security for you and it works well!! God bless and stay safe!!! ❤ 😊
When cutting your hinge, go up 4 inches on the back cut and it will leave a notch that will keep the bottom of the trunk connected to the tree base while it goes down and prevent it from being able to slide backwards and get you. One simple change and you get a lot more predictable felling of your tree.
Nice work. I had a trailer similar to this. It had multimax axles. Same wheel and tires as yours, but it had 4 small axles. Could never keep it aligned and tore up a new set of tires quick. You can get actual trailer tires that are rated for the weight and 70mph. These Dexter axles definitely hold the weight good. I have a case 450 dozer. Mine has a tow bar on rear, that’s where I can down to. I only use 2 chains and 1 binder to transport the dozer. I throw 1 chain over the blade. Then tighten it by back the dozer up. The I ratchet the rear chain on the draw bar.
Mobile home axles are #6500 GWR and have had the spindles bend on me. The wedge's will loosen up with heavy weight so, keep them tight until you put better axles on the trailer. I delivered mobile home for 45 year's and you will have problem's sooner than later. The tire are junk even at 12 ply and can't tell you how many blowout's even new delivery from the factory. Best of luck!
You could put the chains to the upper idler for the track on the dozer. Thats how we haul big excavators and stuff on lowboys. Guys i worked with say not to hook to track pads. And just hook one end of chain directly to stake pocket and other end to machine. Then binder to take up slack in the middle, none of that wrapping around chains. Always remember to attach chains in a way that even if chain came loose the hooks will not fall off.
enjoyed it ,as i tore down a gooseneck camper with a 3 axel 8 luge like new trailer. i am going to use the bed for a bridge . i enjoy watching all your vidioes. AJ from East,Texas
Your welds look great dude! I have several trailers and what I do for grounds is weld on stainless steel 1/4" bolts and sandwich the wire connector between stainless nuts (in addition to the 7-way ground of course). Nice work on the trailer. Nice video.
Nice job on the wiring. And keeping it neat and tidy. My day job is being a mechanic for smaller local specialist construction equipment company and we have a lot of trailer mounted equipment and I constantly am dealing with trailer wiring. The worst is when someone “fixes” trailer wiring and they use all the same colored wires or don’t follow the trailer wiring color coding. This especially sucks when the DOT man has someone pulled over along the freeway and your tracing wiring out.
From watching C&C Equipments channel you need another chain holding the blade to the deck as well as the 4 you applied. I also didn't see any shrink tube over the wire connectors to keep the moisture out of the copper wires. If you used the pointy crimper you could have punctured the insulator.
I personally really like "mobile home" style axles. They are cheap and tough! People run into issues because they aren't smart enough to bolt the tires on and they don't ever pre trip anything. However, they wouldn't be my first pick to go cross country, but lots of people have done so. Good job, that trailer will suit your needs well for years to come
Forgot to mention, them axles come with a small or large bearing on inside. You look to have large bearing. I've never had trouble with these axles. Awesome job
I was hoping as part of the dozer test drive you were going to visit a vehicle scale. I would (rough) guess that the dozer/trailer combination weighs 14-15K, rather than the 12K you guesstimated. Nice job getting the trailer back on the road. It's enjoyable to see guys like you refurbish old, but still viable equipment.
That's one hell of a trailer.. Pretty well built.. I personally steer clear of tri axle trailers and bumper pull rigs.. That thing needs a big kenworth dump truck pulling it..ive got several trailers that run those demountable 14.5 rims and tires without bead locks and the best advice I can give is to keep them aired up to at least 100 lbs at all times and get yourself some tires with the dot brand on them and they will last quite awhile.. Torque them appropriately and re check them at least 20 miles Into your trip and you will be fine.. I'm running 3600 lb radials on all of mine and get good service from them.. They frown on welded mobile home axles and tires without the dot brand on them but other than that dexter axles and Dayton style rims are legal and serviceable so don't sweat it
Oh.. Those aren't mobile home axles or mobile home hubs.. Those are heavy duty dexter axles and probably dexter or Dayton hubs and are very heavy duty so don't worry about the highway patrol or dot giving you any problems.. I personally would not change them unless you start doing a lot of long hauls with it and then the 8 hole rims with 235/85-16 load range g tires would be your best option
The 450B looks like it needs a little grease in the track tensioners and the engine needs some TLC. You did an awesome job on the trailer should give you great service for years to come.
Tad bit of info on those axles. They are not illegal, just not favored and many tire shops will refuse to work on them. At the tire shop I work at, I've seen and worked on Dayton-type wheels/hubs before and they are easy to work with. Just use common sense around them. At the point of watching something else to note, You have to align them manually or they will wobble side to side going dwn the road. The "illegal" rims are going to be your true split rims. Firestone RH-5 (Widowmakers), specifically, are the ones I'm talking about. Any locking ring rim assemblies are much safer and I work on them just about daily from the 3ton farm trucks up to the 80.000lbs loader tires.
They normally chain those dozers on the tracks in an X pattern. You need to run a chain over the blade to secure that also. That trailer is probably a 15,000 GVW trailer. It looks great though. Take it easy
You'll never regret spending the Xtra money on quality parts or putting IN the labor to ensure you have a brake system that stops your trailer when loaded !
Run 100# air in them tires and they last. I run 8-14.5 14ply on my trailer. Get new takeoffs for 50.00. I wouldn't change axles. Many trailers out there have them. Keep lugnuts tight. Cottonwood an excellent choice for decking
It looks a lot like modern hubs would fit on your existing axle, backing plate, and spindle setup. I compared them to my trailer from the early 90s and the spindles look very similar. I have a video of them on my channel if you’re interested. Might be a cheap and easy way out!
@@dakotak8437 I run 8-14.5 14ply and 115 pounds of air. I run 100 in the older ones, avoids premature tire failure. If middle wears more than outside then you have enough air
@@dakotak8437 I buy from mobile hm sales and get rim n tire for around 50. Most still have the rubber tits on them. So they almost new. I haul heavy so always run max air. Also seems to turn better when loaded
I would have changed at the very least all the springs while you had it torn down, and I would have bought better quality springs. There are things you can cheap out on, axles and springs aren't some of them, especially with hauling heavy items.
would have not been able to resist doing full resto on it. Get it shoot blasted and repaint then you would have a really good trailer that also looks good
Those brakes look to have a 5 bolt backing plate, you can keep the axle, get 12x2" brakes that have the 5 bolt backing and then do drums with either 6 or 8 lug depending on your rating
Hooking to pad will get you a ticket, at least around here. Hook chain to trailer. When you wrap it around and try tighten you risk coming loose easier. Avoid going around sharp corners unless you have a protector. 4 chains cross tying down machine and 1 on blade, DOT will claim it could come unhooked n blade fall off UFFDA. Any questions just ask, more than willing to help out
yes I have two questions then - where would you hook on the dozer? Loop the chain around some frame member like we did? I get the one over the blade that's simple. Second, how do you hook to the trailer, do you get d-rings that go in your stake pockets?
@@dieseJL hook to track frame if possible or drawbar. Drop chain threw stake pocket then hook the hook on top lip of stake pocket. Or drop down between rub rail and hook to stake pocket. You also need G80 binder chain to tie load down.
most dozers have tie down points can I suggest putting a ubolt on the roll cage pin location. and the front to the chassis. and add 1 chain from the back straight back as a backup Incase you stuff up so you don't wear the dozer.
When you chain down anything over 10001 pounds, you will need a chain on 4 corners and any articulating device. With that said you needed to add a chain to the blade. I always enjoy the videos
Nice trailer for the price just get ready for the Arm Chair experts telling you how you should have done this and that on this trailer when most of them never worked on a trailer or towed one in there life.
Great content! Loved the trailer build. What is the length of the main deck of your trailer ? Length of beaver tail? Couldn’t find it anywhere and have a very similar trailer I’m trying to restore . Thanks keep up the channel.
I had a chance to buy the exact trailer for 500 dollars about 4 years ago ....I got out checked it all over rushed home to get the cash and came back and it was gone ....to this day I'm still bummed I missed that deal
Words to the wise. Should have ran all your wiring through conduit. It's a cheap insurance . Never have to worry about debris or a branch from a tree catching your wiring.. Another idea is to check on new axles and springs. You can get the whole package then you'll have everything all new everything back there. But anyhow it looks great. They might not hassel you about this but a trailer like that needs reflective tape down the sides.. If you were to use it alot. It needs to be inspected.
I also paid 1200 for my deckover used Burr Oak 2"×10"×16' deck boards with a 4' bever tail . I don't see a breakaway break system on yours. It will but breaks on automatically it it gets unhooked. Is yours longer than 20 ft ? Sense mine already had holes in cross members i used a long 3/8 drill bit to drill up from the bottom through the oak. We sawed that oak on a old circle saw. So that's my story from Minnesota.
If I were to do it all over again I would go dewalt or Milwaukee cordless tools. RIDGID doesn’t have the battery capacity and they don’t have the variety of tools either. However, for working around the house and the price you get them for, I will not be spending any money on tools in the near future. They suffice just fine!! if you were talking about my miter saw, that thing is great. No need to spend more money on that.
Just to be clear those are not actual mobile home axles. A trailer manufacturer would not use them. They are just Dayton style hubs and not a darn thing illegal about them as long as the tires are good and the brakes work.
Well, I am up here just north of Petoskey and the other day seen a bulldozer just sitting in the woods. Weeds have grown all around it so by looking at your video believe you to be just south of Grayling area or around it. Not that far away so you interested in looking at it or talking to the owner? Always watching and like your content and if interested I could stop by the owners house and talk to them. A lot of stuff on the property.
Most likely those tires\wheels that are on your trailer are Called........."Trip" tires (on Mobile homes) , and are only meant to last for a trip to the Dealer and Next to the Buyer of the mobile home ! You really should replace all 6 on your trailer !!!
@@joedoakes8307 there nothing wrong with these tires. I been running them for years. On trouble is if you don't keep 100 pounds in them. I run lowboy and mobile home use and never seen a difference
Not a bad trailer, but those mobile home axles are not going to be your friends. My tiltbed deckover trailer had those axles, couldn't balance the load correctly. Wondering if you are looking to install 7k or 8k axles???? (Commenting at beginning of vid).
Now that we have a trailer, what do you guys want to see us move?!?!
Nice work man. Always good to see a old piece of equipment built back into service.
I’m surprise, you had it down to the bare frame would have been a good time to either sandblast or chip it down and paint the entire trailer. You got a decent value for your effort and $. Now your ready to make some $$$.
you should run all the wires through conduit that goes through the frame rails. this way they are protected from both chassis abrasion and road debris impacts. also a small battery with some sacrificial zinc would be a good investment. or a big battery, winch and zinc.
Hey. Just a tip from someone who has used at least ten thousand of the 3-m marine connectors. If you are splicing two wires into one end. While the glue is still hot take you cutters and crimp in between the wires in-line with them. Just do it gently. It separates the wires and let’s the glue get all the way around them. Keeps the water out.
Good tip!
Just be aware that the wheels and tires you bought were "mobile home only". noted by the "mh" in the tire size on the side wall. they are basically a one time use tire. not intended for "trailer service". many people run them for years without any issues at all. however, if you would run them on a commercial vehicle you would likely put out of service. the hubless center wheels use to very popular on equipment trailers. the overall diameter made them attractive as it could be a low deck. very nice common sense approach with emphasis on safety. i really enjoyed this entire video. well done. i may be wrong but i believe the dozer needs a chain over the blade.
We have a tri axle trailer with mobile home wheels as well we pull it behind the rollback and haul 22 rolls of hay no problem 1,500lb round bales 11 on the truck 11 on the trailer.
I originally used to hate that style of wheel. After working with those axles, bearings, wheels I’ve actually come to like them. Pretty easy to work with
That's a really nice trailer for being in Michigan. I moved to north Idaho from Traverse city about 11 years ago and was honestly amazed at how little rust there is in this area. They don't use salt on the roads they just plow and then use crushed rock on the hills and curves, even on the mountain roads.
Love it. Nice one mate. Effort is the door to reward.
reminds me of the mobile home frame i turned into a deck over equipment trailer almost 10 years ago. as an apprentice auto mechanic i made some not so perfect trailer design decisions. but i ended up selling it on as a partially finished project to a diesel mechanic. made a couple hundred bucks and and learned a lot during the process
You didn't get a good deal on that trailer, you stole that thing! Fantastic find sir!
Yeah it's awesome! Definitely got a good deal but I think it went to a good home!
That’s great you can share all these times with family, thank you brother.
Thanks for watching!
I have a similar trailer. I don't think the trailer knew it had a dozer on it. They are built to haul weight.
Great deal on the trailer. I would sandblast every weld and crack and reweld them. I think surge brakes would be a good mod.
Don't cross the chains - pull to the closest point - 4 individual binders and you may have to throw one over the blade - ask or look up your areas dot requirements, they'll be the ones to rake you over the coals if you aren't to their standard, I like the trailer and how you improved it
Thanks! Should be a good one. How do you not cross when the angle is too tight? In our case it would’ve hit the track pads.
@@dieseJL in some cases you have to - if either of the crossed ones fails the load can shift to the remaining chain and it will also be useless as well - V-belt and son added shackles to his mecalak (recent video) so as to eliminate the need of chains but he added them so the binders pull fore and aft which a better way any one could fail and there is very little room for it's counter part to loosen
Never has any dot said anything about that to me, literally looks fine..you should read the fmcsa securment handbook..has nothing to do with the dot in his area..Would chain the blade down tho.
@@leejohnson6173 th-cam.com/video/TIC7URvAqmM/w-d-xo.html this is the example that changed my mind - to each his own it just seems simple enough to avoid this when possible
Why would you not cross chains? In the marine corps one of the biggest things i learned during equipment movements. is Cross the chains when you're dogging down equipment. Seen a tank get dogged down on a ship and slide about 2 feet when the ship listed hard. its chains were not crossed. we cross chains when dogging down Amphibious assault vehicles on trailers. its good enough to keep a very high very heavy load on the trailer in rough terrain we also Cross the chains on equipment in aircraft and on Rail heads (loaded onto train cars) if crossing chains is bad give a good reason its bad its better load securement. it is better at keeping the load centered. and isn't as awkward tying down.
i think the chain it to the closest point when it comes to equipment is just a old trucker myth because fat or lazy to cross the chains and actually get up onto the trailer and cross them. Crossing them takes 5 extra minutes at most for 4 chains. and offers plethora of benefits.
the only type of securement i think you wouldn't want to cross is Straps. and cables. they can chafe and bind and rub through one another and break. reason for using chains is chains won't rub through each other or get rubbed through by whatever you're tying down.
I really like your toys especially your Dozer. You did great job!
Nice job on the Trailer. That is a solid trailer. Yes brakes run a dedicated ground. Also be very careful buying used tires. That trailer might look like mobile home axels and tires but there not. There dedicated low platform tires. Mobile home tires might be the same size but not the ply or load range, in fact they will say on the sidewall Not For Highway Use. As long as those wheel Spiders are true and tight to the wheel, no Problem, Thanks for Sharing
Good info, thanks as always! No advice on chaining down?
@@dieseJL You did fine with your chains whatever your comfortable with. As someone who's been around trucking/heavy equipment for over 50years we do just hook to the track pads on all four corners, and pull down and back. never a issue. and hang a chain over blade, bucket whatever attachment.
As for binding yes you can use the track pads as a chaining point. Use the center of the pads only, depending on the weight of the machine and your binder WLL you can use a binder only but you only get 1/2 the WLL .
Good to know! Thanks!
That’s a clean obs man love it the trailer build the ole dozer
Thanks!!
You made that trailer very nice That is really an asset
My trailer is homemade, I hauled my D4 Cat and C4 Skidder on the same wheels and tires. Like I said 100 in old tires. The 14ply 8-14.5 I have are 115# . Run lots of air and no tire issue. If middle of tire wearing out before outside then you have enough air.
I have a large dump trailer with those types of axles and tires and hubs normally I run 90 pounds of air That's what the company told me that I bought the tires from to keep them from popping off the rim Cause that's what I was having problems with Just make sure you call and confirm Air pressure And also great looking trailer
Those brake kits are the same brand I bought/used and I think they work great. Apply axle grease to wiring contacts to keep rust away or dielectric grease. Using conduit also helps a lot, I painted my conduit inside and out. It wasn't easy but it hasn't rusted at all..
Lincoln ultracore welding wire is what I’ve always used on heavy equipment. Not only does it hold great and weld in every position it also makes a mediocre welder like myself look like a pro!!
I’ll have to check it out!
Great video, thanks. Btw, I would sticker the wood (white oak) that you have…makes it dry eventually on all sides….otherwise it can warp.
Yeah good call! Thanks for watching!
Looks good and youve doon well your researce and finds! A helpfull hint for you to save all your wood is save some of your used motor oil for coating the deck its good cheap security for you and it works well!! God bless and stay safe!!! ❤ 😊
When cutting your hinge, go up 4 inches on the back cut and it will leave a notch that will keep the bottom of the trunk connected to the tree base while it goes down and prevent it from being able to slide backwards and get you. One simple change and you get a lot more predictable felling of your tree.
Makes sense, I feel like I see that a lot too. Never clicked!!
Love seeing the safety squints at 46:00
😣😣😣
Them wheels and tires easy to get.
Not only that, they keep trailer lower to ground. Gives you lower center of gravity on load and more loaded height
Nice work. I had a trailer similar to this. It had multimax axles. Same wheel and tires as yours, but it had 4 small axles. Could never keep it aligned and tore up a new set of tires quick.
You can get actual trailer tires that are rated for the weight and 70mph. These Dexter axles definitely hold the weight good. I have a case 450 dozer. Mine has a tow bar on rear, that’s where I can down to. I only use 2 chains and 1 binder to transport the dozer. I throw 1 chain over the blade. Then tighten it by back the dozer up. The I ratchet the rear chain on the draw bar.
Just found the channel that truck is sick! Lookin forward to more videos
Sweet! What do you wanna see?
Great job on the trailer. It came out great in the end.
Thanks! I’m pretty happy with it
Mobile home axles are #6500 GWR and have had the spindles bend on me. The wedge's will loosen up with heavy weight so, keep them tight until you put better axles on the trailer.
I delivered mobile home for 45 year's and you will have problem's sooner than later. The tire are junk even at 12 ply and can't tell you how many blowout's even new delivery from the factory. Best of luck!
You could put the chains to the upper idler for the track on the dozer. Thats how we haul big excavators and stuff on lowboys. Guys i worked with say not to hook to track pads. And just hook one end of chain directly to stake pocket and other end to machine. Then binder to take up slack in the middle, none of that wrapping around chains. Always remember to attach chains in a way that even if chain came loose the hooks will not fall off.
enjoyed it ,as i tore down a gooseneck camper with a 3 axel 8 luge like new trailer. i am going to use the bed for a bridge . i enjoy watching all your vidioes. AJ from East,Texas
Thanks for the support!
Nice work, back with everything 👏
Nice job!! The trailer should last a long time!! Beautiful wite oke tops!!
Thanks!!
Grommets to protect the wiring going through frame sections. The wiring will start to chafe otherwise. Great looking trailer.
Your welds look great dude! I have several trailers and what I do for grounds is weld on stainless steel 1/4" bolts and sandwich the wire connector between stainless nuts (in addition to the 7-way ground of course). Nice work on the trailer. Nice video.
That’s a good idea for the ground! I’m no welder but if you need one piece of metal stuck to another I’m your guy
1:01:02 Nice way to burnish in the brakes!
Nice job on the wiring. And keeping it neat and tidy. My day job is being a mechanic for smaller local specialist construction equipment company and we have a lot of trailer mounted equipment and I constantly am dealing with trailer wiring. The worst is when someone “fixes” trailer wiring and they use all the same colored wires or don’t follow the trailer wiring color coding. This especially sucks when the DOT man has someone pulled over along the freeway and your tracing wiring out.
Yeah I’ve learned my lesson the hard way 🤣
That was living and learning as you go.
Marry Christmas 🎄🎄🎄
From watching C&C Equipments channel you need another chain holding the blade to the deck as well as the 4 you applied. I also didn't see any shrink tube over the wire connectors to keep the moisture out of the copper wires. If you used the pointy crimper you could have punctured the insulator.
I personally really like "mobile home" style axles. They are cheap and tough! People run into issues because they aren't smart enough to bolt the tires on and they don't ever pre trip anything. However, they wouldn't be my first pick to go cross country, but lots of people have done so. Good job, that trailer will suit your needs well for years to come
Knock on wood they have served me well so far!!
Good job man, that trailer is awesome!
Forgot to mention, them axles come with a small or large bearing on inside. You look to have large bearing. I've never had trouble with these axles.
Awesome job
I was hoping as part of the dozer test drive you were going to visit a vehicle scale. I would (rough) guess that the dozer/trailer combination weighs 14-15K, rather than the 12K you guesstimated. Nice job getting the trailer back on the road. It's enjoyable to see guys like you refurbish old, but still viable equipment.
That's one hell of a trailer.. Pretty well built.. I personally steer clear of tri axle trailers and bumper pull rigs.. That thing needs a big kenworth dump truck pulling it..ive got several trailers that run those demountable 14.5 rims and tires without bead locks and the best advice I can give is to keep them aired up to at least 100 lbs at all times and get yourself some tires with the dot brand on them and they will last quite awhile.. Torque them appropriately and re check them at least 20 miles Into your trip and you will be fine.. I'm running 3600 lb radials on all of mine and get good service from them.. They frown on welded mobile home axles and tires without the dot brand on them but other than that dexter axles and Dayton style rims are legal and serviceable so don't sweat it
Yeah it definitely outdoes the truck but I wanted a trailer I could grow into 😬
Oh.. Those aren't mobile home axles or mobile home hubs.. Those are heavy duty dexter axles and probably dexter or Dayton hubs and are very heavy duty so don't worry about the highway patrol or dot giving you any problems.. I personally would not change them unless you start doing a lot of long hauls with it and then the 8 hole rims with 235/85-16 load range g tires would be your best option
Nice job, i rebuilt the same trailer about 20 years ago, basicly the same stuff you had to do.
Awesome! Still have it?
@@dieseJL sadly no, it died in a freak accident about 15 years ago.
The 450B looks like it needs a little grease in the track tensioners and the engine needs some TLC. You did an awesome job on the trailer should give you great service for years to come.
Thanks! Wait till you see the 450 in the next video!!
Tad bit of info on those axles. They are not illegal, just not favored and many tire shops will refuse to work on them.
At the tire shop I work at, I've seen and worked on Dayton-type wheels/hubs before and they are easy to work with. Just use common sense around them.
At the point of watching something else to note, You have to align them manually or they will wobble side to side going dwn the road.
The "illegal" rims are going to be your true split rims. Firestone RH-5 (Widowmakers), specifically, are the ones I'm talking about. Any locking ring rim assemblies are much safer and I work on them just about daily from the 3ton farm trucks up to the 80.000lbs loader tires.
They normally chain those dozers on the tracks in an X pattern. You need to run a chain over the blade to secure that also. That trailer is probably a 15,000 GVW trailer. It looks great though. Take it easy
Awesome trailer and great job on cleaning up.
Thanks 👍
You can treat deck with waist oil mixed with diesel. Top n bottom and last for a long time
I used old hydraulic oil and it soaked it up nicely.
BTW, you can purchase replacement 8 bolt hubs for the trailer axles using the same axles.
I am new here but I like what I see so far awesome video.
U my sir have a beautiful truck on of my dream trucks great video
Thanks! Went through quite a restoration on it recently
You'll never regret spending the Xtra money on quality parts or putting IN the labor to ensure you have a brake system that stops your trailer when loaded !
Yeah the trailer has already paid for itself!
Run 100# air in them tires and they last. I run 8-14.5 14ply on my trailer. Get new takeoffs for 50.00. I wouldn't change axles. Many trailers out there have them. Keep lugnuts tight.
Cottonwood an excellent choice for decking
the turn and running lights were blinking at the same time make sure that your yellow turn on the back should be red if they both blink
Yeah I didn’t know they would be on the same relay!
It looks a lot like modern hubs would fit on your existing axle, backing plate, and spindle setup. I compared them to my trailer from the early 90s and the spindles look very similar. I have a video of them on my channel if you’re interested. Might be a cheap and easy way out!
They would, someday I will make the change!
@@dieseJL Nice! That's awesome.
I bought my tires on ebay needed 8 of them for my trailer and paid like $340 for them with free shipping great quality
Wow that’s amazing, I will have to look!
@@dieseJL I also found they ride better and wear even at 80psi
@@dakotak8437 I run 8-14.5 14ply and 115 pounds of air. I run 100 in the older ones, avoids premature tire failure. If middle wears more than outside then you have enough air
@@jackpinesavagerepair1918 ya that's why I stick with 80 bc it was wearing fast in middle and price of tires now lol crazy
@@dakotak8437 I buy from mobile hm sales and get rim n tire for around 50. Most still have the rubber tits on them. So they almost new. I haul heavy so always run max air. Also seems to turn better when loaded
Beautiful scenery
I would have changed at the very least all the springs while you had it torn down, and I would have bought better quality springs. There are things you can cheap out on, axles and springs aren't some of them, especially with hauling heavy items.
Good job, I love the Ford!
She’s a peach!!
1:11:35 run the binder straight to the track .
Great vid and you now have a good solid trailer without spending $20K.
Yeah that was the goal. Trailers are expensive in this market!
Excellent job
Cool trailer and nice work!
Thanks!
Nice job.
You want to learn cutting trees, look up Buckin Billy Ray out of Canada
I watch quite a bit of guiltyoftreeson but I will check him out!
@@dieseJL you want to watch his older videos, now all he does it talk in his videos. Go a few years back to see the saw stuff.
would have not been able to resist doing full resto on it. Get it shoot blasted and repaint then you would have a really good trailer that also looks good
Great video!
Would definitely love to see a follow up video on it.
Sure looks like a nice trailer!
What do you wanna see!?
Those brakes look to have a 5 bolt backing plate, you can keep the axle, get 12x2" brakes that have the 5 bolt backing and then do drums with either 6 or 8 lug depending on your rating
Yeah someday I will upgrade the hubs and tires
@@dieseJL I was going suggest the same thing because I did it to my trailer.
Hooking to pad will get you a ticket, at least around here. Hook chain to trailer. When you wrap it around and try tighten you risk coming loose easier. Avoid going around sharp corners unless you have a protector. 4 chains cross tying down machine and 1 on blade, DOT will claim it could come unhooked n blade fall off UFFDA.
Any questions just ask, more than willing to help out
yes I have two questions then - where would you hook on the dozer? Loop the chain around some frame member like we did? I get the one over the blade that's simple. Second, how do you hook to the trailer, do you get d-rings that go in your stake pockets?
@@dieseJL hook to track frame if possible or drawbar. Drop chain threw stake pocket then hook the hook on top lip of stake pocket. Or drop down between rub rail and hook to stake pocket. You also need G80 binder chain to tie load down.
most dozers have tie down points can I suggest putting a ubolt on the roll cage pin location. and the front to the chassis. and add 1 chain from the back straight back as a backup Incase you stuff up so you don't wear the dozer.
Yeah it needs points!
When you chain down anything over 10001 pounds, you will need a chain on 4 corners and any articulating device. With that said you needed to add a chain to the blade. I always enjoy the videos
Thanks! I have read about the chain over the blade but didn’t have a fifth yet. Next time 👍🏻
Also be careful if you're hauling anything over 10,000 lb some states require you to have a CDL Washington state is horrible about that.
@@Jacob-zd4gj That is nationwide....federal
Nice trailer for the price just get ready for the Arm Chair experts telling you how you should have done this and that on this trailer when most of them never worked on a trailer or towed one in there life.
Good work man!
Thanks! She's a good trailer so far!
Great content! Loved the trailer build. What is the length of the main deck of your trailer ? Length of beaver tail? Couldn’t find it anywhere and have a very similar trailer I’m trying to restore . Thanks keep up the channel.
I’m not sure, probably a 22’ deck and maybe a 5’ dove
I had a chance to buy the exact trailer for 500 dollars about 4 years ago ....I got out checked it all over rushed home to get the cash and came back and it was gone ....to this day I'm still bummed I missed that deal
Curses
You have to chain the blade down while hauling the doser
Words to the wise. Should have ran all your wiring through conduit. It's a cheap insurance . Never have to worry about debris or a branch from a tree catching your wiring.. Another idea is to check on new axles and springs. You can get the whole package then you'll have everything all new everything back there. But anyhow it looks great. They might not hassel you about this but a trailer like that needs reflective tape down the sides.. If you were to use it alot. It needs to be inspected.
Thank, you for sharing
what kind of sonic parts cleaner is on the work bench, does this one work ok?
th-cam.com/video/OzhcOzp9Eno/w-d-xo.html&feature=shares
Do you have your CDL? If not you are probably pretty close to the limit
Nice, trailer
👍👍👍 Three thumbs up !!! 🙏🙏🙏
Do you have any plans to oil down the deck planks?
I put a nice dose of thompsons water seal on it, do you have anything you would recommend?
@@dieseJL Not really. That's a good product. I was thinking of just rolling on some used engine oil to keep the cost down.
You shouldn't seal lumber until it dries out. Trapping moisture in it will cause it to rot out really quick.
I just hit the top, the moisture can still dry through the sides and bottom.
@@dieseJL -- good deal 👍
I also paid 1200 for my deckover used Burr Oak 2"×10"×16' deck boards with a 4' bever tail . I don't see a breakaway break system on yours. It will but breaks on automatically it it gets unhooked.
Is yours longer than 20 ft ?
Sense mine already had holes in cross members i used a long 3/8 drill bit to drill up from the bottom through the oak. We sawed that oak on a old circle saw.
So that's my story from Minnesota.
Awesome! The deck on this is like 26’ long.
Did you treat the wood?
Thompsons water seal
I see you use multiple different tool brands. What helped you decide to buy the ridged brand impact? Would you buy it again?
If I were to do it all over again I would go dewalt or Milwaukee cordless tools. RIDGID doesn’t have the battery capacity and they don’t have the variety of tools either. However, for working around the house and the price you get them for, I will not be spending any money on tools in the near future. They suffice just fine!! if you were talking about my miter saw, that thing is great. No need to spend more money on that.
Can you weld on some D-rings on the dozer for an easier tie down ?
I have seen that before, that would be the ultimate. Good idea!
Just to be clear those are not actual mobile home axles. A trailer manufacturer would not use them. They are just Dayton style hubs and not a darn thing illegal about them as long as the tires are good and the brakes work.
Good to know!
You can get 8 lug hubs and put 16 inch tires on them axles
Check with your state on chaining laws.
Well, I am up here just north of Petoskey and the other day seen a bulldozer just sitting in the woods. Weeds have grown all around it so by looking at your video believe you to be just south of Grayling area or around it. Not that far away so you interested in looking at it or talking to the owner? Always watching and like your content and if interested I could stop by the owners house and talk to them. A lot of stuff on the property.
Yeah I would be interested. I have an email in the contact section of the channel otherwise you could message us on instagram.
Most likely those tires\wheels that are on your trailer are Called........."Trip" tires (on Mobile homes) , and are only meant to last for a trip to the Dealer and Next to the Buyer of the mobile home ! You really should replace all 6 on your trailer !!!
Makes sense, I’ll look into it. At least I have clean rims now!
@@dieseJL The tires are the weak point . Rims are strong , but kind of a Pain due to their mechanical design !
@@joedoakes8307 there nothing wrong with these tires. I been running them for years. On trouble is if you don't keep 100 pounds in them. I run lowboy and mobile home use and never seen a difference
Not really true older dump trucks still use these kind of tires.
What year is your Ford F350?
Trailer looks like econo line Trailer there built in central Alabama
Nothing wrong with that chain job.
That’s a beautiful place your parents have. How many acres if you don’t mind me asking
What place?
Not a bad trailer, but those mobile home axles are not going to be your friends. My tiltbed deckover trailer had those axles, couldn't balance the load correctly. Wondering if you are looking to install 7k or 8k axles???? (Commenting at beginning of vid).