Love the vid brother keep posting vids like this and u will be at 50k in no time. The connectors u used are heat shrink connectors so use a heat gun on them and shrink em so water and moisture don’t get in. U do good work for your age
I repair trailers as a side hustle, and I have some tips for the next time you do a trailer. 1. pull all the wires and lights off first, 2. do all your cutting, grinding, hole drilling, welding ect, before you prime and paint, that way, all exposed metal gets a coating. . 3. anywhere a wire goes through a hole, should have a grommet. 4. ALWAYS repack your bearings with grease, just shooting grease into the voids, won't work, also recommend "bearing buddy" greasable dust caps. 5. the 12 volt power wire, is for a battery that auto activates your trailer brakes if it comes off the tow vehicle, should have a "break away" safety system on it, especially if your going to haul equipment 6. don't waste your time cutting out the squares for the tie downs, cut the whole notch out, because your straps are going to break that little section of wood out, and become loose. Also, Depending on the laws of your state, I also like to put a "tattle tale" red "marker/blinker light on the rear corners, so I can tell from my tow vehicle, if the turn signals are working, I always seem to have something break the turn signal wire, if I don't run them through a conduit. Over all, great job, like the way you soaked the wood. reflective tape is on point, LED side markers were definitely the way to go. Now all you need is a 2 ton winch on the front lol
Anytime an electrical wire goes through a metal hole it should be protected with a grommet. This will save you from having to rewire down the road. Great job, reminds me of my youth.
Gotta say. Makes me smile seeing how helpful everyone is instead of bashing the guy for things that he’s doing wrong. Hopefully he reads the comments and learns a few new things to help with his next projects.
Thank you!!! Usually comments are so negative. It is good to read the positive side of life. Plus these comments help a novice like myself who is trying to do the same thing as in the video.
Your wiring leaves a lot for improvement. you should use soldered crimps with dual wall heat shrink on your crimps. Also if you run all of your grounds through wiring back to one common ground bolt at the hitch area, it will last a lot longer and be easier to troubleshoot if it doesn't work some time. Local grounds have a lot of chance for corrosion and random lights not working. Otherwise, I like the color choices on the trailer. Its a nice freshening.
That is *_NOT_* good advise to use one ground on a trailer! I worked on a trailer that had issues with the brakes lightly applying whenever any lights were turned on and dim illumination, it ended up being the one ground wire was corroded. When I rewired the trailer, I gave it two additional grounds just so that if one failed in the future it had two other paths to ground. Redundancy sometimes can save you from a headache!
Using a common ground is a good way for everything to fail at once while driving down the road. With local grounds it is very easy to diagnose... you go to the light that isn't working and check for power and ground, way easier than tracing an entire ground line all the way to a common ground to find out why a light isn't working, Also with local grounds if there is a failure 1 light goes, Not every light on the trailer... You can drive without much worry if a single marker light fails on a trip, not so much the case when every light on the entire trailer is gone because a single ground wire broke.
Loooking good! On your electrical take a look at a 7 way junction box that will clean up your connection points and they're water resistant, get rid of the scotch locks like others have mention, also take a look at cable clamps "adel clamps" they'll keep your wires from chafing like they will with the metal clamps other wise keep up the good work!!
Great job- I've been doing this since I was your age (back in the 70s!) one thing I'd recommend: I know you're grinding and painting outside which is great- but still put on a one of those cheap dust masks. They are not good enough for indoors, but for outdoors they'd be fine. By the end of the day you are still inhaling way to much that's not good for you.
I would be very surprised that wiring job lasts even a single season. Bare wires through sharp metal, no wire looming, improper junction box, improper connections, the list goes on. That overstuffed wire hole on that obviously not outdoor rated junction box is going to be the first to go. Sharp metal with smashed together wires. He could have put the ground inside the box, there was even a hole available to put a screw inside. With no wire loom, those wires are at the mercy of the elements, road junk and critters. I would have put them inside hard plastic conduit, and flex conduit to the brakes. I think the scariest part are the wheels. The bearings weren't preloaded right at all. Wouldn't be surprised if one or more of those wheels fell off or locked up.
@@BradenBuildz I agree with the other comments, there are some good points and it could have been presented better. It read like he was scolding you or belittling your work instead of trying to help you learn. I mean the rubber grommets through the frame are a good idea, grounding the electrical system inside of the junction box is also a good idea but I don't think that'll be the first failure point. The scotch locks that you used to connect the wires are like electrical guillotines and are the worst electrical invention ( probably ever, ) I believe that will be your first failure in the system. Also on the hubs it is a good idea to clean the old grease out and pack new grease in before reassembling. I think for your age you're doing pretty good. I mean, yes there are some things I would do differently like stripping the old lights and wiring off before wire brushing the frame, and fixing your steak pockets and drilling the holes for your new lights before you primed and painted but those are things that come with experience. All in all though I think it was a good video I think you're doing good work keep it up, I'm going to keep watching. Also curious where did you find the wiring info for the lights? It seems all wrong. As someone who wires semi and equipment trailers regularly the standard is quite different. Black = tail lights Brown = clearance or chicken lights Red = brake lights Green and yellow = turn signals White = ground Oh, and just because it made one trip doesn't mean it is all right. Sorry that's just not a good comeback on your part.
@@philb4049 there are a ton of things that could go wrong here like the first guy said. I hope he learns that the looks and quality are in the details..I respect the kids knowledge and ambition but he also seems to have that teenage arrogance. Spills oil every where like fuckit, ruins new things or products and just says" idc I'll buy a new one", throws parts together half-ass like the hub. Overall though it is a good video.
Great project! Big ol crescent wrenches are great for straightening metal. When you drilled the power box into the frame you could have used it as your ground inside of the box.
Word of warning. You'll have connectivity problems later with those "scotch lock" wire connections. You'll be better off to use solder connections that mend the copper better and have a shrink wrap to protect the connection.
I was going to mention packing the bearings as well. Just dab some grease on you palm of your hand and force the grease into the rollers. I would have upgraded the axles at least to current ones, with newer options. Great build for a first timer. You're good work keep it up.
Yeah I knew I should have packed bearing after I was editing video. No sense in changing axles on a trailer when you don’t have too. I sold it for a day profit and it’s being used to haul fork lifts
Them are Dayton style rims. They’re not really the best option for heavy hauling, but for light duty work they’re fine. I also would have done new shoes and gave them brakes a good work in for the buyer
It has nice new paint, jack, safety chains, lights, deck boards & decals. Now it's time to have a DOT Motor Carrier Trooper come out & inspect it for highway use.
Here’s a tip for trailer wiring - get a can of “Liquid Electrical Tape” and apply liberally to those Scotch Locks & butt joints. Plus - I don’t know if anyone else has pointed this out to you but these trailers with inward-facing wheels and tires have trap doors built into the bed so that you can get to the wheels. So there may be some wriggling around on the ground in your future. But you’re young so that’s cool. Nice build. Just subscribed!
I’m only wanting to be supportive of what your doing. It seems you gotten some good tips. I have only one. When rebuilding my trailer, about the same size. An old timer, told me to drive for 20 minutes and then use a laser temperature gun on the hubs. Great tip, didn’t think of that. Ended up doing a bit more work. Well worth it. Glad to see a young person cutting there road. Well done!
Big improvement on a rusty old trailer but a couple tips. Grommets on any holes that you have wires running through, the rough metal edge will eventually cut through the insulation and you'll have a short. Run a heavy multi conductor wire all the way to the rear with a junction box that splits off and feeds all the lights. All those tap connectors work good for a while but eventually have problems. Use heat shrink connectors or solder and heat shrink. Water and electrical connectors aren't friends. The name of the game with trailer wiring is as few exposed connectors as possible. You need to grease the bearings, not just slop a bunch of grease under the dust cap. Slap a good dap of grease in your palm and start pressing the bearing edge into the grease. You want to force grease all the way through and around all those individual roller bearings. I'd recommend doing all your metal work, get the old lights and wires off, cut any new holes, and then grind and prep for paint. Easier and cleaner.
Good work man. Try to solder those connections instead of those plastic ones especially if you plan on keeping long term. Where you run the red wire through the trailer it would be ideal to use rubber grommets as well as the metal will eventually short that wire to ground.
I was gonna mention the same thing. The connections he's using are junk. Atleast the heat shrink but connectors. Insert grommets on your wire pass through. It will last alot longer.
Very impressive for your age. The one thing I would recommend is to up the electrical wire game. Avoid scotch lock connectors unless it is emergency repair. At very least, use heat shrink connectors or start soldering and heat shrink. Takes a little more time but fewer issues down the road on the side of the road. Keep it up.
Next time you place those jack stands. Place a 6 x 6 plywood underneath them so they do not sink into the ground. Makes it more stable. And wear a face mask when painting or grinding. Your just asking for it. As well as safety glasses.
Too many shortcuts on something that might be hauling 10 tons through my neighborhood. Leaf spring shackles were shot, bearings should've been repacked. That wiring will be fun when the self tapper grounds start rusting and the scotchlocks fail. And, btw, stuttering's not funny if it's your child.
As much as these comments are talking about ppe saftey, and shrink wrapping and grommets, I wanted to bring up the junction box. If you know the top of something is going to be in the elements, never put a screw top down on it. That’s asking for water to get inside the junction box and pool up. There’s lots to learn and probably lots you learned from doing this project which is the best park of diy stuff! Other than that, I think it ended up looking good
Awesome work , that seems to be a 8×26 ft float trailer buy the looks can hold 15k lbs , that's why there's so many wheels and I wish I could find decent stuff like that in my area .. keep up the work ..
Tires do not determine the weight carried ,the axles do. Those are home made bogie axles made from cut down trailer house axles . Trailer is probably good for 10,000 lbs. safely and no more .
Always repack your bearings with grease, you can do it old school, Or you can buy a bearing buddy, Rotation Hand Bearing Packer Tool, Inject Bearing Grease into Bearing, I like old school the best you can see all the grease going to all the parts of the bearing. And watch all the old grease coming out! Always run your wires close to the frame, that way you want rip them out. Other than that, I thank you done a great job! Keep up the good work
I admire your chops and ingenuity. Two concerns. First, I think you've set up yourself for a lot of time chasing wiring problems. Grommets in all the channels and shrink tubing over your connections would help against vibration and road grime. Second, please take care of your lungs. All that work you did without masking up scares me. Kudos on the trailer build, and good luck!
You are a talented young man. Great job. First time watching. Im 64 years old and spent my youth doing the same. dry wall, brake jobs, working with many burning chemicals and plastics. But I wish I had worn a mask. Now I have COPD and have had cancer. Can I blame it on all I did without a mask...........100%. Its a small price to pay for your future.
I commend you for doing your best buddy. A few pointers- wear a respirator when spray painting, I would never use scotch locks for wiring and use some kind of conduit over the wires to protect them plus rubber grommets where a wire goes through a metal hole. I did see you use heat shrink connectors but you didn’t shrink them down with a heat gun to seal out moisture and dirt. I would have replaced ALL the brake hardware and make sure to inject grease into the bearings. Just some useful info that would make that trailer trouble free for a long time. And the respirator mention to save your lungs!! Good job buddy and keep on a truckin 😊
Watch a video on how to properly repack wheel bearings. Having one fail on the side of the road is never good. It's going to happen if you don't do it right. The rest of what you have done is looking good. And yes, wear a mask every time you spray paint. Your lungs will thank you when you are older.
@20:03 Bruh... lol crap prep job. Been there done that, shit will be peeling in 6 months. Ask me how I know... You should of drilled holes, removed everything and then primed and painted. Really should of sandblasted it You'll get what I call rust runners everywhere you didn't paint, every light covering rust will have it seeping out of it and running lines down the clean yellow paint. Don't worry there is always next year, my trucks service body is on its like 9th coat of enamel lol
You didn't pack those axle bearings correctly bud! And those style of wire connectors will never last long term. I have experience in these things so I know what I'm talking about!
Just a tip when doing bearings. You should pack the bearing with grease before putting it in and then follow with the steps you did packing full of grease. Helps the bearings last.
You did a great job I'm glad you shared the half used motor oil and diesel oil as a protective seal I just wish you had sealed it on the bottom as well
Great build and great work. Your electrical work could definitely use some more practices but theres no better way to learn. Those self tappers may come loose and all the vibrations of driving. If you start losing grounds I would take a look at that first.
I'm in Canada and in my province you have to use red penny lights from the wheels back .. Requires an ID rear light if over 80" wide ... And weather cracks in tires will NOT pass inspection ...
I’ve done this on a few of my trailers so if your trailer doesn’t have reverse lights or crappy ones at that I put a 4-6 in light bar at the back in the middle and then 4 flood pods in each corner and it makes reversing at night a total breeze and it works as scene lights too or you can wire in a switch like I have but they are connected to both my switch and reverse lights but for a $100 mod it adds so much value
Suggestions: Do the metal repair and remove all lights and wires before priming. Surface mount lights only require a hole big enough for the wire, much easier. Those T taps are horrible and will not last, especially when they are unsupported and hanging in the air to bounce and blow in the wind. ALL of the inline splices need to be heat shrunk, and that blue plastic is likely shrinkable. They need to be protected from moisture. Worst case, get marine shrink wrap with adhesive and put it over the crimp tubes. Need to actually pack the bearing with grease, not just squirt some in there. If that is not automotive SXL (or equiv) wire it won't last being run through un-grommeted holes in the chassis or junction box... Keep working!
Magnets should free float to be able to jump out agains the drum and return away when the brakes are off. Just make sure your cotter pins don’t interfere with the magnets agains the drum or you’ll loose that tires brake. Every trailer with that style axle ive ever seen is an “econline” brand, there heavy trailers for sure yours looks mint
Just started the video not even in 10 minutes. It looks like a homemade trailer built out of a trailer house frame. I have taken down 4 mobile homes and the frames look like that. Very strong for what they need to be. I have thought about making a trailer out of one before. Great video so far!
for the lov of God, Please learn how to use cotter pins! You bend each of the legs in a DIFFERENT Direction! You also need to pack those bearings with grease, not just put grease on them. you need to work the grease into each of the little rollers. Otherwise, looks good! I am at the 24:10 position, i hope the rest is good, we shall see!
Hey boss man not to be rude but a quick tip with your spray gun open that nozzle up a bit for a wider angle and slow down a touch with your passes to get more coverage and a better application of your primer.
Honestly for your age it seems like you did a damn solid job. Seeing the build like this, it's great for personal use but i would not dare selling it without taking the points below into account. 1. should have done the Drilling, Cutting, wire-routing planned (not assembled) all before primer so the holes and cuts will be covered as well, make the holes a few mm larger than you did now to take the paint thickness into account. All that possibly exposed metal could/will rust eventually, if you're living in an area where they salt the roads during winter even worse. An hour of extra prep-work will prevent days of headaches. 2. No wire protection through the frame, should use rubber grommets, driving causes vibrations which will eventually wear down the protective coating of the wire and cause short-circuits. 3. You didn't heat-shrink the connections or weatherproof it in any way, these will fail eventually. 4. Look at all the tension on the wires, try to keep them with a little bit of slack (almost but not fully tight) and join them together without one pulling on the other. 5. Should've treated the wood all sides, you didn't account for the splashing gunk coming from the wheels on the bottom, mud will stick to it and water will seep in, eventually rotting them out from below. 6. (personal opinion) i would've put in new drum-brake kits, the shoes are only $30 to $45 for 4 shoes (2 per drum) and the springs are about $20-$30 per 2 drums, so $150 extra and you could've swapped all the brakes (keeping the drum) and it would easily sell $500+ more, a brake job done by a shop could easily run you 1k+ on 4 drums Please don't take this as me calling your work bad, you did a great job for this trailer and for personal use it's perfect since if something does fail you won't have caused it for someone else. Merely meant as constructive criticism to help you improve your work.
Pro Tip: glue or 3m tape a couple of strong magnets to the bottom sides grip on your grinder and as you grind metal pieces off you can "pick them up" with the magnets quickly. This is good for your drill too, to hold screws.
You’re probably not gonna see this, but it looks like a wire wheel that sticks out a bit so he can put full pressure and not have to worry about the arbor on the grinder
I heard you say "I don't wanna sand blast it" and just immediately thought to work today where I sandblasted a trailer about this size in about 2 hours. If you can sand blast it, it's almost always faster unless you're using a tiny hand gun.
Great Find! Good build! Have a couple things I would have done different, but only major, major thing is Never, Never, Never use Scotch Locks!!!!! Otherwise great video.
A few notes to make a build like this actually turn out good. 1) wear a facemask and ppe when grinding. 2) rust control should be done before priming, such as treating with phosphoric acid or other neutralizers. 3) Do all the metal remediation and prep before priming and painting. This includes any drilled holes for lights or brakes and and other items such as the jack. Also put a 2x4 in those tie down holes before you beat on em and do that before you put any paint or primer on please for the love of Pete. 4) all mechanical work should be complete before painting. 5) leave a small dot of tape for your ground spot. 6) do another punch out or ad a grommet for those ground wires. 7) chock your wheels. 🫣
@@BradenBuildz Thanks! I'm getting ready to redo the stakebed of a 1935 Ford 1 1/2 ton truck and your trailer looked good. Extra thanks for the diesel and motor oil mixture for weather proofing it.
Love all the constructive criticism in this comment section rather then bashing him down people gotta learn somehow and it’s not by talking shit about every mistake he made I love that y’all actually go into detail about things he did and how he can improve next time
Use wire clips to hold your wiring to the trailer, leaving them “tight” with out any slack will eventually pull apart, good job altogether, keep up the good work
I would definitely do some research on proper wheel bearing and hub maintenance, and Dayton wheel installation procedures. It may roll fine for now but wont for long
You need to redo some things to prevent problems and a potential accident from happening. - wiring needs to be run through rubber grommets so will never touch metal - pull all hubs out and clean old grease out and properly repack bearings with grease to prevent axle failure - if you live or intend to drive where roads are salted in winter, I recommend fully painting all surfaces of metal including underneath the upper part of all the I-beams - tighten the nut on the axle while turning the wheel. When it starts to drag, back-off the nut just a little so the wheel spins freely or overheating of bearings will occur leading to axle failure Couldn't tell in your video, but it looked like there was no locking ring to prevent the axle nut from spinning off when the trailer is loaded Hope this helps...
The little cotter pin you put in to the brakes @ 22:30 needs to be removed asap as that will retain the electric brake from coming out and slowing down the trailer. They work as a magnet and when voltage is sent to the electric brakes they stick onto the brake drum which with forward rotation pulls the arm they are mounted to which then actuates the break pads slowing the trailer down
Love the vid brother keep posting vids like this and u will be at 50k in no time. The connectors u used are heat shrink connectors so use a heat gun on them and shrink em so water and moisture don’t get in. U do good work for your age
Thanks
This comment aged well
@@BradenBuildz sure did brother you flew past my channel but some of your shorts are in the millions of views and your videos are pretty dang funny
@@BradenBuildz I just don’t see how your shorts are getting so many views like your last one is at like 8 million
@@Thehomepros6221 be cool to do a vid with you sometime in the future
I repair trailers as a side hustle, and I have some tips for the next time you do a trailer. 1. pull all the wires and lights off first, 2. do all your cutting, grinding, hole drilling, welding ect, before you prime and paint, that way, all exposed metal gets a coating. . 3. anywhere a wire goes through a hole, should have a grommet. 4. ALWAYS repack your bearings with grease, just shooting grease into the voids, won't work, also recommend "bearing buddy" greasable dust caps. 5. the 12 volt power wire, is for a battery that auto activates your trailer brakes if it comes off the tow vehicle, should have a "break away" safety system on it, especially if your going to haul equipment 6. don't waste your time cutting out the squares for the tie downs, cut the whole notch out, because your straps are going to break that little section of wood out, and become loose. Also, Depending on the laws of your state, I also like to put a "tattle tale" red "marker/blinker light on the rear corners, so I can tell from my tow vehicle, if the turn signals are working, I always seem to have something break the turn signal wire, if I don't run them through a conduit. Over all, great job, like the way you soaked the wood. reflective tape is on point, LED side markers were definitely the way to go. Now all you need is a 2 ton winch on the front lol
Also, really bro??? crocks??? lol
in the UK ALL wiiring has to be sheathed,,,,,i.e. protected,
All good points, the only thing I would add is those ground wires should have been grounded inside the box for a cleaner look.
Totally agree, I just now stumbled onto this video totally agree with your comments.
@@chippowell1 CROCS rule and are great for nearly all activities. That being said...I am still in the doghouse for wearing them to a wedding 😂
Anytime an electrical wire goes through a metal hole it should be protected with a grommet. This will save you from having to rewire down the road. Great job, reminds me of my youth.
Yeah i give it a month max before electrical starts messing up
@@cammos cmon, really? dont run trailers like the in the UK!
It's the wrong kind of junction box for trailer. Don't get me wrong it will work.
Gotta say. Makes me smile seeing how helpful everyone is instead of bashing the guy for things that he’s doing wrong. Hopefully he reads the comments and learns a few new things to help with his next projects.
Thank you!!! Usually comments are so negative. It is good to read the positive side of life. Plus these comments help a novice like myself who is trying to do the same thing as in the video.
Wear a face mask bro, 30 dollars and will save your life.
He throws batteries in the ocean he don’t care 😂😂😂
@@patrickjaudon5908 wtf what a pos
Yeah!!! Shut up, NERD! ⬆️⬆️What he said!
He really should wear a mask
Helps being outside, but I'll never knock on the benefits of PPE. 👍
Every time I thought it couldn’t get worse, it got worse😬 I guess everybody has to learn somehow.
Your wiring leaves a lot for improvement. you should use soldered crimps with dual wall heat shrink on your crimps. Also if you run all of your grounds through wiring back to one common ground bolt at the hitch area, it will last a lot longer and be easier to troubleshoot if it doesn't work some time. Local grounds have a lot of chance for corrosion and random lights not working. Otherwise, I like the color choices on the trailer. Its a nice freshening.
thee connectors are heat shrink, so cmon dude... its not that that hard to deduce.
That is *_NOT_* good advise to use one ground on a trailer! I worked on a trailer that had issues with the brakes lightly applying whenever any lights were turned on and dim illumination, it ended up being the one ground wire was corroded. When I rewired the trailer, I gave it two additional grounds just so that if one failed in the future it had two other paths to ground. Redundancy sometimes can save you from a headache!
Using a common ground is a good way for everything to fail at once while driving down the road. With local grounds it is very easy to diagnose... you go to the light that isn't working and check for power and ground, way easier than tracing an entire ground line all the way to a common ground to find out why a light isn't working, Also with local grounds if there is a failure 1 light goes, Not every light on the trailer... You can drive without much worry if a single marker light fails on a trip, not so much the case when every light on the entire trailer is gone because a single ground wire broke.
I loved it when he snapped the cotter pin folded it over then tucked it away and said “There we go!”
Until you buy one of his great repairs
Loooking good! On your electrical take a look at a 7 way junction box that will clean up your connection points and they're water resistant, get rid of the scotch locks like others have mention, also take a look at cable clamps "adel clamps" they'll keep your wires from chafing like they will with the metal clamps other wise keep up the good work!!
Great job- I've been doing this since I was your age (back in the 70s!) one thing I'd recommend: I know you're grinding and painting outside which is great- but still put on a one of those cheap dust masks. They are not good enough for indoors, but for outdoors they'd be fine. By the end of the day you are still inhaling way to much that's not good for you.
Use rubber grommets through the metal holes where the wires pass. Over time with vibration they will get chaffed and short out.
I would be very surprised that wiring job lasts even a single season. Bare wires through sharp metal, no wire looming, improper junction box, improper connections, the list goes on.
That overstuffed wire hole on that obviously not outdoor rated junction box is going to be the first to go. Sharp metal with smashed together wires. He could have put the ground inside the box, there was even a hole available to put a screw inside.
With no wire loom, those wires are at the mercy of the elements, road junk and critters. I would have put them inside hard plastic conduit, and flex conduit to the brakes.
I think the scariest part are the wheels. The bearings weren't preloaded right at all. Wouldn't be surprised if one or more of those wheels fell off or locked up.
A business in Mississippi just used it to haul a 21k Clark fork lift on a 10 hour haul and they had no issues with it. But cool
@@GGigabiteM good advice but a bad presentation.
@@BradenBuildz I agree with the other comments, there are some good points and it could have been presented better. It read like he was scolding you or belittling your work instead of trying to help you learn. I mean the rubber grommets through the frame are a good idea, grounding the electrical system inside of the junction box is also a good idea but I don't think that'll be the first failure point. The scotch locks that you used to connect the wires are like electrical guillotines and are the worst electrical invention ( probably ever, ) I believe that will be your first failure in the system. Also on the hubs it is a good idea to clean the old grease out and pack new grease in before reassembling. I think for your age you're doing pretty good. I mean, yes there are some things I would do differently like stripping the old lights and wiring off before wire brushing the frame, and fixing your steak pockets and drilling the holes for your new lights before you primed and painted but those are things that come with experience. All in all though I think it was a good video I think you're doing good work keep it up, I'm going to keep watching. Also curious where did you find the wiring info for the lights? It seems all wrong. As someone who wires semi and equipment trailers regularly the standard is quite different.
Black = tail lights
Brown = clearance or chicken lights
Red = brake lights
Green and yellow = turn signals
White = ground
Oh, and just because it made one trip doesn't mean it is all right. Sorry that's just not a good comeback on your part.
@@philb4049 there are a ton of things that could go wrong here like the first guy said. I hope he learns that the looks and quality are in the details..I respect the kids knowledge and ambition but he also seems to have that teenage arrogance. Spills oil every where like fuckit, ruins new things or products and just says" idc I'll buy a new one", throws parts together half-ass like the hub.
Overall though it is a good video.
Great project! Big ol crescent wrenches are great for straightening metal. When you drilled the power box into the frame you could have used it as your ground inside of the box.
Word of warning. You'll have connectivity problems later with those "scotch lock" wire connections. You'll be better off to use solder connections that mend the copper better and have a shrink wrap to protect the connection.
ALL scotch lock connectors should go in the trash
Glad to see kids your age fixing stuff rather than buying new.
Keep up the good work!
I was going to mention packing the bearings as well. Just dab some grease on you palm of your hand and force the grease into the rollers. I would have upgraded the axles at least to current ones, with newer options. Great build for a first timer. You're good work keep it up.
Yeah I knew I should have packed bearing after I was editing video. No sense in changing axles on a trailer when you don’t have too. I sold it for a day profit and it’s being used to haul fork lifts
@@BradenBuildz newer axles I believe are rated for higher speeds or something like that, or safer with newer style wheels
Them are Dayton style rims. They’re not really the best option for heavy hauling, but for light duty work they’re fine. I also would have done new shoes and gave them brakes a good work in for the buyer
If packing bearings, put HD latex gloves on. Makes cleanup MUCH easier..
Whoever this guys parents are I’m sure they are proud! One hell of a work ethic, find something you love and make a business! I know you will succeed!
He would need to improve the quality of his output to succeed as a business.
It has nice new paint, jack, safety chains, lights, deck boards & decals. Now it's time to have a DOT Motor Carrier Trooper come out & inspect it for highway use.
Nobody wants that, but after watching this particular trailer... YES
Here’s a tip for trailer wiring - get a can of “Liquid Electrical Tape” and apply liberally to those Scotch Locks & butt joints. Plus - I don’t know if anyone else has pointed this out to you but these trailers with inward-facing wheels and tires have trap doors built into the bed so that you can get to the wheels. So there may be some wriggling around on the ground in your future. But you’re young so that’s cool. Nice build. Just subscribed!
I’m only wanting to be supportive of what your doing. It seems you gotten some good tips. I have only one. When rebuilding my trailer, about the same size. An old timer, told me to drive for 20 minutes and then use a laser temperature gun on the hubs. Great tip, didn’t think of that. Ended up doing a bit more work. Well worth it. Glad to see a young person cutting there road. Well done!
Big improvement on a rusty old trailer but a couple tips.
Grommets on any holes that you have wires running through, the rough metal edge will eventually cut through the insulation and you'll have a short.
Run a heavy multi conductor wire all the way to the rear with a junction box that splits off and feeds all the lights. All those tap connectors work good for a while but eventually have problems. Use heat shrink connectors or solder and heat shrink. Water and electrical connectors aren't friends. The name of the game with trailer wiring is as few exposed connectors as possible.
You need to grease the bearings, not just slop a bunch of grease under the dust cap. Slap a good dap of grease in your palm and start pressing the bearing edge into the grease. You want to force grease all the way through and around all those individual roller bearings.
I'd recommend doing all your metal work, get the old lights and wires off, cut any new holes, and then grind and prep for paint. Easier and cleaner.
Good work man. Try to solder those connections instead of those plastic ones especially if you plan on keeping long term. Where you run the red wire through the trailer it would be ideal to use rubber grommets as well as the metal will eventually short that wire to ground.
I was gonna mention the same thing. The connections he's using are junk. Atleast the heat shrink but connectors. Insert grommets on your wire pass through. It will last alot longer.
Very impressive for your age. The one thing I would recommend is to up the electrical wire game. Avoid scotch lock connectors unless it is emergency repair. At very least, use heat shrink connectors or start soldering and heat shrink. Takes a little more time but fewer issues down the road on the side of the road. Keep it up.
Thanks
Next time you place those jack stands. Place a 6 x 6 plywood underneath them so they do not sink into the ground. Makes it more stable. And wear a face mask when painting or grinding. Your just asking for it. As well as safety glasses.
Too many shortcuts on something that might be hauling 10 tons through my neighborhood. Leaf spring shackles were shot, bearings should've been repacked. That wiring will be fun when the self tapper grounds start rusting and the scotchlocks fail. And, btw, stuttering's not funny if it's your child.
😂
@11:44...Nice one with the base ball insert. You got me solid there🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣I think I have whiplash now🤣😂👌
As much as these comments are talking about ppe saftey, and shrink wrapping and grommets, I wanted to bring up the junction box. If you know the top of something is going to be in the elements, never put a screw top down on it. That’s asking for water to get inside the junction box and pool up. There’s lots to learn and probably lots you learned from doing this project which is the best park of diy stuff! Other than that, I think it ended up looking good
Thanks. My thinking behind it was a board would be above it. Plus the angle of the beam covered the top.
@BradenBuildz could also left the white wire in the junction box and grounded it in the box for a cleaner look
Great to see someone young videoing about a completely different piece of equipment 🇮🇪🇬🇧
Changes out the scotch locks they will give you problems
A trailer that looks like it needs some tlc parked in the weeds looks clean now..
Good deal
Awesome job on the very smart idea with the 50% oil and Diesel on staining the wood
Awesome work , that seems to be a 8×26 ft float trailer buy the looks can hold 15k lbs , that's why there's so many wheels and I wish I could find decent stuff like that in my area .. keep up the work ..
Dude got a steal in it I see those trailers holding that much weight on marketplace going for 4k-7k dollars damn good trailer tho
Tires do not determine the weight carried ,the axles do. Those are home made bogie axles made from cut down trailer house axles . Trailer is probably good for 10,000 lbs. safely and no more .
Good to know what the payload is 👍
Great job I just would have gone a little lighter on that. DOT tape LOL
I'm sure you just used the legal limit
Always repack your bearings with grease, you can do it old school, Or you can buy a bearing buddy, Rotation Hand Bearing Packer Tool, Inject Bearing Grease into Bearing, I like old school the best you can see all the grease going to all the parts of the bearing. And watch all the old grease coming out!
Always run your wires close to the frame, that way you want rip them out. Other than that, I thank you done a great job! Keep up the good work
I admire your chops and ingenuity. Two concerns. First, I think you've set up yourself for a lot of time chasing wiring problems. Grommets in all the channels and shrink tubing over your connections would help against vibration and road grime. Second, please take care of your lungs. All that work you did without masking up scares me. Kudos on the trailer build, and good luck!
You are a talented young man. Great job. First time watching. Im 64 years old and spent my youth doing the same. dry wall, brake jobs, working with many burning chemicals and plastics. But I wish I had worn a mask. Now I have COPD and have had cancer. Can I blame it on all I did without a mask...........100%. Its a small price to pay for your future.
I have only a single word regarding your comment: AMEN!
I commend you for doing your best buddy. A few pointers- wear a respirator when spray painting, I would never use scotch locks for wiring and use some kind of conduit over the wires to protect them plus rubber grommets where a wire goes through a metal hole. I did see you use heat shrink connectors but you didn’t shrink them down with a heat gun to seal out moisture and dirt. I would have replaced ALL the brake hardware and make sure to inject grease into the bearings. Just some useful info that would make that trailer trouble free for a long time. And the respirator mention to save your lungs!! Good job buddy and keep on a truckin 😊
What is that style of axle called, where it has an inner wheel and two leaves per “mini-axle”?
Watch a video on how to properly repack wheel bearings. Having one fail on the side of the road is never good. It's going to happen if you don't do it right. The rest of what you have done is looking good. And yes, wear a mask every time you spray paint. Your lungs will thank you when you are older.
Cant really call it a restoration but its a nice way to breathe a little extra life into something that is on its way out.
Unfortunately the term restoration is used pretty loosely on most videos these days.
@20:03 Bruh... lol crap prep job. Been there done that, shit will be peeling in 6 months. Ask me how I know...
You should of drilled holes, removed everything and then primed and painted. Really should of sandblasted it
You'll get what I call rust runners everywhere you didn't paint, every light covering rust will have it seeping out of it and running lines down the clean yellow paint.
Don't worry there is always next year, my trucks service body is on its like 9th coat of enamel lol
Actually this is the kind of thing that shows determination and separates the men from the boys since you are a young man good job
You didn't clean and repack the bearings? Buy new ones?
You didn't pack those axle bearings correctly bud! And those style of wire connectors will never last long term. I have experience in these things so I know what I'm talking about!
nice video! but as someone who builds truck bodies that wiring made me cringe
Just a tip when doing bearings. You should pack the bearing with grease before putting it in and then follow with the steps you did packing full of grease. Helps the bearings last.
Its good to see young people with a good work ethic.
You did a great job I'm glad you shared the half used motor oil and diesel oil as a protective seal I just wish you had sealed it on the bottom as well
Good job. Think about using a step bit or several smaller sized drill bits first when drilling holes.
Liked the video, but decided that youtube needs a love button only because of the "Jeep."
Heavy beast
Nice. Looking forward to an update on the skid loader
Dropped off engine Monday. So hoping to hear back from them soon. I want that thing running too
Great build and great work. Your electrical work could definitely use some more practices but theres no better way to learn. Those self tappers may come loose and all the vibrations of driving. If you start losing grounds I would take a look at that first.
Those bearings ain’t gonna last long. Sweet build!
Sweet build. Cheap flip.
What color yellow is that?
Looks super good!
Some kinda school bus yellow from rural king. I like it too very bright
make me shake my head and cry
I'm in Canada and in my province you have to use red penny lights from the wheels back .. Requires an ID rear light if over 80" wide ... And weather cracks in tires will NOT pass inspection ...
Why dont u sanding that wood 1st..will got nice surface and smooth
What kind of jeep did you use to hull the trailer
M151a2
I’ve done this on a few of my trailers so if your trailer doesn’t have reverse lights or crappy ones at that I put a 4-6 in light bar at the back in the middle and then 4 flood pods in each corner and it makes reversing at night a total breeze and it works as scene lights too or you can wire in a switch like I have but they are connected to both my switch and reverse lights but for a $100 mod it adds so much value
As Yoda would say....."much to learn you have".
Nice work on the trailer. But the star of the show is that sweet m151 jeep. Love those jeeps. Great video.
It’s the latest version m151a2
@@BradenBuildz i was trying to see the front to see if it was an a1 or a2. Best jeep ever made.
This restoration was awesome to watch. What made it better is that my guy did all of this in the comfort of his Crocs 💪
Suggestions: Do the metal repair and remove all lights and wires before priming. Surface mount lights only require a hole big enough for the wire, much easier. Those T taps are horrible and will not last, especially when they are unsupported and hanging in the air to bounce and blow in the wind. ALL of the inline splices need to be heat shrunk, and that blue plastic is likely shrinkable. They need to be protected from moisture. Worst case, get marine shrink wrap with adhesive and put it over the crimp tubes. Need to actually pack the bearing with grease, not just squirt some in there. If that is not automotive SXL (or equiv) wire it won't last being run through un-grommeted holes in the chassis or junction box... Keep working!
Great job, itd be a really good idea to repack all the bearings with grease clean out breaks and adjust if possible
Magnets should free float to be able to jump out agains the drum and return away when the brakes are off. Just make sure your cotter pins don’t interfere with the magnets agains the drum or you’ll loose that tires brake.
Every trailer with that style axle ive ever seen is an “econline” brand, there heavy trailers for sure yours looks mint
Just started the video not even in 10 minutes.
It looks like a homemade trailer built out of a trailer house frame.
I have taken down 4 mobile homes and the frames look like that.
Very strong for what they need to be.
I have thought about making a trailer out of one before.
Great video so far!
It is indeed
@@BradenBuildz sounds good!
You also have a new subscriber!
I have the same trailer it’s factory built and 12 ton rated
@@tfi6279 what years were they built?
@@tfi6279 and what company is it?
you have alot to learn about electric wiring and bearings. keep learning
for the lov of God, Please learn how to use cotter pins! You bend each of the legs in a DIFFERENT Direction! You also need to pack those bearings with grease, not just put grease on them. you need to work the grease into each of the little rollers. Otherwise, looks good! I am at the 24:10 position, i hope the rest is good, we shall see!
I think this is a learning experience for the lad. Give him kudos though, he did everything by himself, start to finish 👏
Hey boss man not to be rude but a quick tip with your spray gun open that nozzle up a bit for a wider angle and slow down a touch with your passes to get more coverage and a better application of your primer.
Honestly for your age it seems like you did a damn solid job.
Seeing the build like this, it's great for personal use but i would not dare selling it without taking the points below into account.
1. should have done the Drilling, Cutting, wire-routing planned (not assembled) all before primer so the holes and cuts will be covered as well, make the holes a few mm larger than you did now to take the paint thickness into account.
All that possibly exposed metal could/will rust eventually, if you're living in an area where they salt the roads during winter even worse.
An hour of extra prep-work will prevent days of headaches.
2. No wire protection through the frame, should use rubber grommets, driving causes vibrations which will eventually wear down the protective coating of the wire and cause short-circuits.
3. You didn't heat-shrink the connections or weatherproof it in any way, these will fail eventually.
4. Look at all the tension on the wires, try to keep them with a little bit of slack (almost but not fully tight) and join them together without one pulling on the other.
5. Should've treated the wood all sides, you didn't account for the splashing gunk coming from the wheels on the bottom, mud will stick to it and water will seep in, eventually rotting them out from below.
6. (personal opinion) i would've put in new drum-brake kits, the shoes are only $30 to $45 for 4 shoes (2 per drum) and the springs are about $20-$30 per 2 drums, so $150 extra and you could've swapped all the brakes (keeping the drum) and it would easily sell $500+ more, a brake job done by a shop could easily run you 1k+ on 4 drums
Please don't take this as me calling your work bad, you did a great job for this trailer and for personal use it's perfect since if something does fail you won't have caused it for someone else.
Merely meant as constructive criticism to help you improve your work.
I thank god I i won't be anywhere near you on the road when one of those wheels comes flying off!!!!!
There is so much wrong in this video
Oh man I about died when you started using those quick splice terminals on the wiring...
Putting grease by your bearings won't help if you don't pack your bearings
Please use a respirator!!! love the content though.
Ground the wire in the box and use wire protection designed for the electrical box you used.
Pro Tip: glue or 3m tape a couple of strong magnets to the bottom sides grip on your grinder and as you grind metal pieces off you can "pick them up" with the magnets quickly. This is good for your drill too, to hold screws.
Все супер, молодец. Но прокоадывагие прововодов парень, это ужас, стоит поработать над этим
Nice, finally realworld restoration, without billions of professional tools and workers... Just you, old trailer and hammer 😊
The lights on that trailer are going to go bad within a year. between the connectors and rubbing on metal you going to get shorts and bad connections.
I love the wire brush stir stick. Great videos man
What kind of grinder wheels do you 5:10 use to sand that down?
You’re probably not gonna see this, but it looks like a wire wheel that sticks out a bit so he can put full pressure and not have to worry about the arbor on the grinder
I heard you say "I don't wanna sand blast it" and just immediately thought to work today where I sandblasted a trailer about this size in about 2 hours. If you can sand blast it, it's almost always faster unless you're using a tiny hand gun.
Great Find! Good build! Have a couple things I would have done different, but only major, major thing is Never, Never, Never use Scotch Locks!!!!! Otherwise great video.
What about underneath?
Sir u did a awesome restoration on the trailer sir well done nice work on the this project sir it looks nice trailer sir 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
what kind of screws did you use? regular wood screws?
Wood to metal screws by teks
Very interesting and well presented video. We liked the fact that you did not need ego/face time in your video. More please.
A few notes to make a build like this actually turn out good. 1) wear a facemask and ppe when grinding. 2) rust control should be done before priming, such as treating with phosphoric acid or other neutralizers. 3) Do all the metal remediation and prep before priming and painting. This includes any drilled holes for lights or brakes and and other items such as the jack. Also put a 2x4 in those tie down holes before you beat on em and do that before you put any paint or primer on please for the love of Pete. 4) all mechanical work should be complete before painting. 5) leave a small dot of tape for your ground spot. 6) do another punch out or ad a grommet for those ground wires. 7) chock your wheels. 🫣
What type of wood did you use and how is it holding up outside?
2inch thick red oak. Solid
@@BradenBuildz Thanks! I'm getting ready to redo the stakebed of a 1935 Ford 1 1/2 ton truck and your trailer looked good. Extra thanks for the diesel and motor oil mixture for weather proofing it.
That’s… not how you pack bearings lol but hey whatever works.
I would’ve blasted it before priming and painting
Love all the constructive criticism in this comment section rather then bashing him down people gotta learn somehow and it’s not by talking shit about every mistake he made I love that y’all actually go into detail about things he did and how he can improve next time
Good work for a youngster
It seems like even dad's wanting to help out there for sure good job
Use wire clips to hold your wiring to the trailer, leaving them “tight” with out any slack will eventually pull apart, good job altogether, keep up the good work
I would definitely do some research on proper wheel bearing and hub maintenance, and Dayton wheel installation procedures. It may roll fine for now but wont for long
You need to redo some things to prevent problems and a potential accident from happening.
- wiring needs to be run through rubber grommets so will never touch metal
- pull all hubs out and clean old grease out and properly repack bearings with grease to prevent axle failure
- if you live or intend to drive where roads are salted in winter, I recommend fully painting all surfaces of metal including underneath the upper part of all the I-beams
- tighten the nut on the axle while turning the wheel. When it starts to drag, back-off the nut just a little so the wheel spins freely or overheating of bearings will occur leading to axle failure
Couldn't tell in your video, but it looked like there was no locking ring to prevent the axle nut from spinning off when the trailer is loaded
Hope this helps...
Ahhh hahaha, loved the Jeep drop at the end! Good stuff!
19:15 Did you heat shrink the pink plastic cover?
The little cotter pin you put in to the brakes @ 22:30 needs to be removed asap as that will retain the electric brake from coming out and slowing down the trailer. They work as a magnet and when voltage is sent to the electric brakes they stick onto the brake drum which with forward rotation pulls the arm they are mounted to which then actuates the break pads slowing the trailer down