Nice video, To be on the safe side it’s probably best to put a disclaimer that the perfect mating of the DIN and SAE flare types are just a side effect are not intended for joining pipes together. I see you have noted this but just in case viewers go away thinking this is how it’s done.
£2 per foot plus £1 per end was what I was quoted recently but the convenience of being able to make quality brake pipe connections and quick on-car repairs plus the satisfaction of DIY make this tool worth the money. Good vid. Thank you.
BTW, you can use the clamp jaws in the body to straighten the end of the pipe you want to flare. Put the bent section into the jaw so that the it rises at 90° to the jaw, fit the other half and tighten the clamp bolts.
Thank you very much for this video! I just bought this tool and have a question. Which bubble flare does this tool produce? I am making brake lines for a 1968 MGC GT. SAE or DIN? Thank you.
Hello I was wondering could you help I have the same kit as yours, but when I make a double flare SAE it makes the flare ok but it squashes the pipe out just behind the flare then the flare nut won't push to the end against the flare, I think the pipe I'm using is 3/16 not sure if it's copper or copper nickel if that matters. Thanks
For safety always do a double flare ....and get yourself a decent pipe straightening tool ....brakes are worth the money. I have a similar tool but I've got a few LASER tools and are pretty decent. Have bought SEALEY tools but never again ... ridiculous prices .. ridiculous spare parts prices and all the SEALEY tools I've bought have been crap to be blunt and just a warning to other watchers ...don't buy their pipe flaring kit. It doesn't work ..is shit and the dies are awful .... Saw some other comments and yes get a decent camera setup mate. Can't see half the video ....good luck on the focus. Just going to replace the lines on my ST220. Always a good idea to use nickel conifer pipe not just copper......quite a bit stronger and the tool will still flare nicely 👍🏻
Thanks for your comment if u are making new brake lines u would not under the car you would be at the bench or sitting next to the car and just so u know I work on car 6 days a week and have used this tool in tight spots also and it works there to
I have used a Sykes Pickavant flaring tool to splice in new sections of brake pipe under stretched limousines in very confined spaces, and it wasn't as compact as this one, so I should think it would be well suited to that sort of work.
I have the exact same tool and line as you to make double flares but when I use the first part of the die my line starts twisting even with lots of grease and tightening the block/clamp. Have you seen this before? Any advice? Thanks
@@Mrdiyhobbies this is brand new line and yes I only have the grease at the tip of the tool. I’m thinking it’s poor quality line..maybe too soft.. so I ordered more from a reputable brand. Hopefully that’s fixes it. Thanks
I was going to buy one of those tools. Thanks for showing. I am going to stick with the old way, because that tool is nice but over complicated, and takes longer. Time is money. ;)
But you're mating a DIN single flare with an SAE double flare. Not recommended. As far as I know you can only join DIN flares using a double female junction piece that you screw the two male connectors into.
@@Mrdiyhobbies no I appreciate the video you made , just wanted to make you aware some of the video was off camera when you were displaying an item..thank you , that’s really kind of you..
@@CHIBA280CRV I will make sure on my next video I will improve with the camera I hoping to get a new camera but as am starting out am using a iPhone but I will improve thank u for watching and sending me comments
If you compare the specifications of copper and cupro-nickel brake pipe, you usually find that max pressure rating is the same for both. I think the main difference is resistance to corrosion, and I find cupro-nickel makes neater bends.
I'm guessing that you have realised by now that you shouldn't join pipe in the way you have shown here? You have made a din bubble flare, no problem. Then a sae double flare, no problem. ........ But one isn't supposed to fit to the other. Two separate systems. You need the correct joiner fitting. Ie. Din to din with din joiner fitting in between. Or sae to sae with sae joiner fitting in between. ✌. To the best of my knowledge. Check it out. Best regards.
@@Mrdiyhobbies which you have done very well. I got the same impression, which was that method would be acceptable to make a joint. I don't see why it wouldn't work but a proper jointing union seems to be the recommended approach.
🤔Copper is way too soft REAL dangerous for ANY brake line's always use REAL stainless steel for any bright lines always got to have a REAL GOOD flour tool for ANY stainless steel brake line's...
Copper is not recommended. Copper nickel, steel or stainless is recommended. Not sure of the UK but many states in the US have regulations for licensed mechanics on what they can use for brake line repairs and copper isn’t one of them.
Brilliantly explained. First person to show how a bubble flare fits snug into a double flare for a perfect join. Well done.
I used a similar tool like this one to make my own steel brake pipes, but it`s a lot more work involved because steel is much harder.
This is the best video on TH-cam you explained it very simple please do more your the best top man
I use my bubble flare tool to do what you just done . Works %100 .
Thank you for this video. You saved me a lot of time and thinking.
Nice video, To be on the safe side it’s probably best to put a disclaimer that the perfect mating of the DIN and SAE flare types are just a side effect are not intended for joining pipes together. I see you have noted this but just in case viewers go away thinking this is how it’s done.
Just to clarify the proper way of joining two ends of the pipes is by using a union of the appropriate type, right?
Thank you for the great video. Now I can understand how it works.
Brilliant video thank you
£2 per foot plus £1 per end was what I was quoted recently but the convenience of being able to make quality brake pipe connections and quick on-car repairs plus the satisfaction of DIY make this tool worth the money. Good vid. Thank you.
No problem Paul Kelly thank u for watching my vid it really means a lot
Excellent video I like it
Muito bom. Ferramenta top
BTW, you can use the clamp jaws in the body to straighten the end of the pipe you want to flare. Put the bent section into the jaw so that the it rises at 90° to the jaw, fit the other half and tighten the clamp bolts.
I give that a try I got to make a rear brake line on a fiesta this weekend
Thank you very much for this video! I just bought this tool and have a question. Which bubble flare does this tool produce? I am making brake lines for a 1968 MGC GT. SAE or DIN? Thank you.
Very useful. Noice!
Hello I was wondering could you help I have the same kit as yours, but when I make a double flare SAE it makes the flare ok but it squashes the pipe out just behind the flare then the flare nut won't push to the end against the flare, I think the pipe I'm using is 3/16 not sure if it's copper or copper nickel if that matters. Thanks
For safety always do a double flare ....and get yourself a decent pipe straightening tool ....brakes are worth the money. I have a similar tool but I've got a few LASER tools and are pretty decent. Have bought SEALEY tools but never again ... ridiculous prices .. ridiculous spare parts prices and all the SEALEY tools I've bought have been crap to be blunt and just a warning to other watchers ...don't buy their pipe flaring kit. It doesn't work ..is shit and the dies are awful ....
Saw some other comments and yes get a decent camera setup mate. Can't see half the video ....good luck on the focus. Just going to replace the lines on my ST220. Always a good idea to use nickel conifer pipe not just copper......quite a bit stronger and the tool will still flare nicely 👍🏻
I love all these videos Anyone can use the tool on a bench I wanna see them do it in a tight spot on a car
Thanks for your comment if u are making new brake lines u would not under the car you would be at the bench or sitting next to the car and just so u know I work on car 6 days a week and have used this tool in tight spots also and it works there to
I have used a Sykes Pickavant flaring tool to splice in new sections of brake pipe under stretched limousines in very confined spaces, and it wasn't as compact as this one, so I should think it would be well suited to that sort of work.
Correction it's a double flare
Gostaria de um desse. Como faço?
I have the exact same tool and line as you to make double flares but when I use the first part of the die my line starts twisting even with lots of grease and tightening the block/clamp. Have you seen this before? Any advice? Thanks
Have you checked that you only have the grease where your doing the flares and no brake fluid on the pipe if your doing it on the car
@@Mrdiyhobbies this is brand new line and yes I only have the grease at the tip of the tool. I’m thinking it’s poor quality line..maybe too soft.. so I ordered more from a reputable brand. Hopefully that’s fixes it. Thanks
@@justabear8117 buy nickel kunifer or as they say Cupro kunifer it's copper with nickel in for more strength and better for your car and brakes
I was going to buy one of those tools.
Thanks for showing.
I am going to stick with the old way, because that tool is nice but over complicated, and takes longer.
Time is money. ;)
i need this tool
I was waiting for the lazerrrr😅
Where can I buy a Tool like that
Amazon
on amazon for $179.55 USD
Onde eu compro ??
Hi thank u for vitor am very sorry but I got understand what you are saying
I just translated and u can buy from Amazon
But you're mating a DIN single flare with an SAE double flare. Not recommended. As far as I know you can only join DIN flares using a double female junction piece that you screw the two male connectors into.
Hi I was following the instructions but thank u for your time and commitment I will be doing a new video soon
Your good at making flares , but terrible at displaying it on the camera ! Thanks
I can make u a better video if u like
@@Mrdiyhobbies no I appreciate the video you made , just wanted to make you aware some of the video was off camera when you were displaying an item..thank you , that’s really kind of you..
@@CHIBA280CRV I will make sure on my next video I will improve with the camera I hoping to get a new camera but as am starting out am using a iPhone but I will improve thank u for watching and sending me comments
This configuration does not work on 1997 jeep.
I'd put my 45 year old Bluepoint flaring tool up against that tool any day
Nickel copper or copper? Supposedly copper is only good for water and fuel, brake pressures exceed its spec and nickel copper is required instead.
If you compare the specifications of copper and cupro-nickel brake pipe, you usually find that max pressure rating is the same for both. I think the main difference is resistance to corrosion, and I find cupro-nickel makes neater bends.
Combination wrenches lol
Combination wrenches???
I'm guessing that you have realised by now that you shouldn't join pipe in the way you have shown here? You have made a din bubble flare, no problem. Then a sae double flare, no problem. ........ But one isn't supposed to fit to the other. Two separate systems. You need the correct joiner fitting. Ie. Din to din with din joiner fitting in between. Or sae to sae with sae joiner fitting in between. ✌. To the best of my knowledge. Check it out. Best regards.
Thank u for your comment but I was just showing how the tool works
@@Mrdiyhobbies which you have done very well. I got the same impression, which was that method would be acceptable to make a joint. I don't see why it wouldn't work but a proper jointing union seems to be the recommended approach.
🤔Copper is way too soft REAL dangerous for ANY brake line's always use REAL stainless steel for any bright lines always got to have a REAL GOOD flour tool for ANY stainless steel brake line's...
It's not dangerous, been used in the UK for many years.
Copper is not recommended. Copper nickel, steel or stainless is recommended. Not sure of the UK but many states in the US have regulations for licensed mechanics on what they can use for brake line repairs and copper isn’t one of them.