I use the AO4407 p-mosfet for my DIY T12 soldering station, works pretty good and supports up to 25v on the gate, the mosfet that you're using supports only 20v, you should be using a zener diode to drop some voltage unless you aren't using 24v, of course, also check the IC on those little DC-DC converts, because there are two versions, one supports only 23v for vin. Great project!.
In itself a well thought out project, but why are you using a step down converter. The microcontroller needs so little power that you could easily use a linear regulator, e.g. an lm7805. This not only saves you a few cents, but you can also make the soldering iron narrower. The lm7805 also offers advantages such as automatic temperature switch-off.
@5:22 The forward clip should be grounded, or connected to earth to prevent static electricity from building up and shorting across the things being soldered.
Neat project. The user interface display seems well polished and the animations are great. Looking forward to seeing version 3. Also nice bodge wire get the buzzer footprint to work :)
make some kits with the components and open an etsy shop ? btw, as you need 5V , isn't it possible to don't use the buck converter and use a USB power pack (some delivering up to 2amp) ?
I bought one of those Yihua 937D soldering stations from china. It has the same handle and heater. If you wrap the heater in tin foil and add a dab of heat transferring compound you'll have a cheap working soldering handle.
I was trying to load the bootloader with only the atmel328p, crystal and the 22p caps. I connected my power supply to the 5V and GND, according to the silkscreen. Large currents started to flow. I tried to resolder the chip and also tried about 3 different 328p chips and two different pcb's. Still the same. Now I know why it did not work. The 5V and 24V are actually GND. The 5V and 24V are also both connected to the copper planes. I think there are a few mistakes in the silkscreen where the step down converter is connected.
I suggest you to post one of your designs to the EE stack exchange and ask: "what can I improve on this boards?". Just from a glance I can see many little errors that are easily fixed and will give you a better and more reliable device.
I am new to electronics. I learn that there are some problem to drive a load from high side with a N MOSFET. Its needs a bootstrapping circuit. Am I missing something .
That project looks very very close to the soldering station from jurgis.me, the adc calculation in the sketch, even with inverted PWM and HIGH/LOW because the MOSFET is in high side configuration, which also looks the same like jurgis project, looks like you didn't understand that and so added later that transistor on top of the MOSFET as a driver. I always add names and sources for ideas in my codes. But still nice work.
Really nice build. I love it. Speaking of clips for the heating element, I would try to wrap around 3 loops of 22AWG copper wire and solder the copper to the contact sleeve. This would provide two strong leads for the pc board for each sleeve as well as the third one that is not electrically involved. You could not be more low profile than that. If you ever need to change that heating element all you would have to do is unsolder those 6 copper leads and redo the operation. No big deal with that. Yes, it would not be a standard component but hey! We are diy after all.
Hi, great video. Can you tall my why did you put the zener diode and the capacitor in tha op-amp circuit. I think that they are not needed and they capacitor will charge up to the supply voltage end you will have to wait for the capacitor to discharge to get a accurate reading ot the temperature. Also the zener diode will start to leak current to ground if the voltage across the heating element is to adove the zener diode break down voltage. Maybe I am wrong
You should add a deepsleep mode. After 10 minutes of sleep the vibrationsensor is disabled and you must click on any button to resume. Or maybe doubletap it. Therefore it can not start accidentally by a cat or some vibrations.
YEAH, I must admit it! This is one of the best vid on the subject I saw. Very, very good job! Really nice! It was also as interesting, and I waiting to see your next vid. Thanks alot for sharing your work. Just by curiosity ; around how much all the components cost? Anyhow, thanks again.
what is the name of the Contact clips or where could I buy them please ? thanks. link on electronoob did not work, but If I had a part name and number I could search for it.
I would have thought the centre tap of the sensor and heater are connected to the case (the 3rd connector). If that is the case then sensing and heating are independent.
Is there any reason you used the buck converter module instead of a simple linear regulator IC? It seems really overkill to have an adjustable buck converter when a single IC would do.
By an "single ic" do you mean a linear regulator?, if so the issue it's power dissipation, the power consumption of a project like this it's low, around 30mA (just the atmega328 takes around 20mA) but with a 20 VIN you'll have around 450mW of heat for the regulator to dissipate, with 24vin will be 570mW, so you'll need a regulator with a to-220 package for this application, so regarding space it's almost the same as the buck converter just with better efficiency. Cheers.
Yes, I mean a single linear regulator IC. For anyone else reading this, here's the calculations to get the power dissipation number: The Atmega328 will draw up to 20mA, but while idle (Which it is the majority of the time) the current draw is nearly zero. The OLED display will draw 15ish mA with the amount he's drawing on it, so I would estimate closer to 20 mA current draw, so 100mW power draw . The efficiency of a linear regulator is about equal to the voltage ratio, so 5v/24v = about 20% efficiency. So the power dissipation of the regulator would be somewhere in the range of 500mw. Now, for a through hole part, you are right that you would need a fairly large package (Like a to-220) to dissipate that amount of heat. However, with surface mount parts the board acts as a heat sink, so you can get away with a fairly small package. Here's a link to a part I used for a similar application in a recent project: www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/389/l78-974043.pdf With proper heat sinking, this one can dissipate 5W of heat (For the SMD version). Realistically it'll be closer to 1-2 watts in a small board like this, but it's still plenty for the application and it's way smaller/cheaper than the buck converter module.
Perhaps make v3 with a switch for 12v and 24v input if space permits. Been a lot of times I needed to use a soldering pencil using the 12v from a car and couldn't. I realize this will need to use a boost convertor to get to 24v. Anyway, excellent build and video. Thanks.
This is all you need, get a boost-converter and place it into the 12V plug for cigarette lighter, I bet you have somewhere an old charging adapter for phones and those cases are mostly big and have room for the converter, even in massproduction I would choose this way and sell it as a set with the iron, if Apple would do that they would sell this adapter extra for hundret bucks or so xD
Hi, since you use 24V to power up your iron solder, i think that can be a good idea change your mosfet to part number PSMN3R0. This one is a N channel mosfet, but has small footprint size. Take a look. Great work by the way.
You can't use a NCH mosfet for this project (unless you use the bootstrap technique), it requires high side cut off in order to be able to read the thermocouple voltage. Cheers.
I see, you're right. But you can fix this with a small ones capacitor and diode, or if you prefer, you can use a BJT as a driver isolated by a resistor.
Nice imprument to last soldering iron project.but my little questions is what actually problem in last soldering iron.because I started making to your last soldering iron project.please help me sir.
Akrasiel8 : I dont think it would work. If I remember correctly I think he mentioned the heating circuit part was working on 24Vdc. You would need at least 5 cells to get decent performance. That would start to become a bit heavy for a portable iron. Perhaps useful in special cases, like a quick job at a customer place.
sasiskas no, I meant 38120, and of course not in the handle. smaller than a decent lipo and handles more current (not the joule/weight is more, the current capability better and more safe - 10A nominal discharge). or you can build a portable DC source from it.
Very nice project.Maybe you should try out JBC clone tips, they are around 10usd but shorter and could save you some space. Or you can try to fit those tips for robotic soldering since they are super compact around 110mm but they are probably too expensive.
hi Electronoobs, great project I want to make this, but not portable and i have few questions plz i've got to use through hole component, what to92 transistor can i use to replace 2SC3356? The irf540 does not support 24v in is gate, can i use FQP33N10 instead? I'm beginner with arduino programming, is it complicated to change code for use rotary encoder instead of push button? Thanks in advance
Хороший проект, но крепления жала паяльника лучше сделать с ограничителем по посадке в глубину, чтоб всегда был хороший контакт токовых колец. Корпус можно сделать разрезной и округлой формы более привычной руке
For the 16MHz crystal you can replace it with a Murata CSTCE16M0V53-R0 SMD. It should save you some space there. Can steal one off an Arduino Pro Mini if it takes too long to ship :)
hi bro can i use HORIZONTAL MODE in f450 size drone please please must reply !!i wanna use Horizon Mode Similar to Angle mode, Horizon mode still works to keep the craft level when there are no inputs. But it also allows you to do flips and rolls when the stick is at full deflection. However doing aerobatics in this manner feels more like a toy grade “push-button” flip system.
Want to help my workshop: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
Thank you so much!
Can you make radar using ultrasonic sensor.
Electronoobs I was wondering...Doesn't the pcb get too hot due to the heat transfer from the soldering tip through the metal clips?🤔
Not at all. The mosfer gets a bit hot!
You could try use github.com/vdeconinck/QC3Control for power supply. It would be nicer since now qc3 power bank is common.
Make one to selling haha if you do, I want one if you make it, :D I love it
I use the AO4407 p-mosfet for my DIY T12 soldering station, works pretty good and supports up to 25v on the gate, the mosfet that you're using supports only 20v, you should be using a zener diode to drop some voltage unless you aren't using 24v, of course, also check the IC on those little DC-DC converts, because there are two versions, one supports only 23v for vin. Great project!.
In itself a well thought out project, but why are you using a step down converter. The microcontroller needs so little power that you could easily use a linear regulator, e.g. an lm7805. This not only saves you a few cents, but you can also make the soldering iron narrower. The lm7805 also offers advantages such as automatic temperature switch-off.
You have weird accent, but it doesnt matter. You are a genius!!! Keep up the good work.
Yeah, I can't lose my accent...lol
@5:22 The forward clip should be grounded, or connected to earth to prevent static electricity from building up and shorting across the things being soldered.
True. It should be connected to adn earth screw or so. After I finished the board I was thinking about that...
Neat project. The user interface display seems well polished and the animations are great. Looking forward to seeing version 3. Also nice bodge wire get the buzzer footprint to work :)
looking forward to version 3, i might have to make one for myself when you release the video.
make some kits with the components and open an etsy shop ?
btw, as you need 5V , isn't it possible to don't use the buck converter and use a USB power pack (some delivering up to 2amp) ?
what's going on with the temps on 10:10 ?
Simply amazing 😉
Thank you!
Может повторишь? У меня не получился собрать ( контролер дохнет
7:51. pls, tell me.
How to find | y=0.9141 | and 51.146 what is that meant ? help me.
i use google translate
WOWWW !!! I love this project !!!!! Congratulations from Spain !!!!
I bought one of those Yihua 937D soldering stations from china. It has the same handle and heater. If you wrap the heater in tin foil and add a dab of heat transferring compound you'll have a cheap working soldering handle.
I got a T12 tip today and it measures 5.5mm, so there might be some audio 6mm socket you can take apart to get the contacts clips.
It's very nice invention . We are looking for this useful soldering iron.
I was trying to load the bootloader with only the atmel328p, crystal and the 22p caps. I connected my power supply to the 5V and GND, according to the silkscreen. Large currents started to flow. I tried to resolder the chip and also tried about 3 different 328p chips and two different pcb's. Still the same. Now I know why it did not work. The 5V and 24V are actually GND. The 5V and 24V are also both connected to the copper planes. I think there are a few mistakes in the silkscreen where the step down converter is connected.
Hey electronicnoob how did you manage to turn on an N channel mosfet with -12V using just an npn transistor?
Nice project and great work! It would be great to see also an DIY reflow station, with air temperature and air flow control.
I suggest you to post one of your designs to the EE stack exchange and ask: "what can I improve on this boards?".
Just from a glance I can see many little errors that are easily fixed and will give you a better and more reliable device.
What a perfect Project
I am new to electronics. I learn that there are some problem to drive a load from high side with a N MOSFET. Its needs a bootstrapping circuit. Am I missing something .
That project looks very very close to the soldering station from jurgis.me, the adc calculation in the sketch, even with inverted PWM and HIGH/LOW because the MOSFET is in high side configuration, which also looks the same like jurgis project, looks like you didn't understand that and so added later that transistor on top of the MOSFET as a driver. I always add names and sources for ideas in my codes. But still nice work.
yep that video idea looks like a pretty straight copy of the general ideas ...
Really nice build. I love it. Speaking of clips for the heating element, I would try to wrap around 3 loops of 22AWG copper wire and solder the copper to the contact sleeve. This would provide two strong leads for the pc board for each sleeve as well as the third one that is not electrically involved. You could not be more low profile than that. If you ever need to change that heating element all you would have to do is unsolder those 6 copper leads and redo the operation. No big deal with that. Yes, it would not be a standard component but hey! We are diy after all.
Thank you!
looking forward for version 3
Nice upgrade. Especially on the tip.
Is there a way to make this heat-up below 200deg C? I just need around 75 to 150 deg C to melt (solder some plastics - PLA, PETG, ABS, etc).
Hi, great video. Can you tall my why did you put the zener diode and the capacitor in tha op-amp circuit. I think that they are not needed and they capacitor will charge up to the supply voltage end you will have to wait for the capacitor to discharge to get a accurate reading ot the temperature. Also the zener diode will start to leak current to ground if the voltage across the heating element is to adove the zener diode break down voltage. Maybe I am wrong
Great project like I like it it’s amazing
Awesome project must be spending a lot effort and putting all the useful coding techniques turned into application. I really inspired your works :)
I just become a patreon member on your channel :)
Is there an update of this? I suggest using a PD 3.0 so you can use USB Type-C instead of a barrel plug
I think we dont need the 2SC3356 transistor, right? I cant find it in the shematics and in the Gerber.
Q2 is the NPN transistor in the scheamtic!!!
You should add a deepsleep mode. After 10 minutes of sleep the vibrationsensor is disabled and you must click on any button to resume. Or maybe doubletap it.
Therefore it can not start accidentally by a cat or some vibrations.
Holy crap, this is amazing!! Definitely something I need to do!
Very nice , congratulations from 🇲🇽 👍🏻
Nice little project
YEAH, I must admit it! This is one of the best vid on the subject I saw. Very, very good job! Really nice! It was also as interesting, and I waiting to see your next vid. Thanks alot for sharing your work.
Just by curiosity ; around how much all the components cost?
Anyhow, thanks again.
Great project and great improvements :)
Great work love this.
Those side buttons really need to have their little side archers soldered to the board. This just wont do.
True!
ever thought designing a solder iron that can be connected to a power bank or powered with a small lipo battery?
we are waiting for version 3. is it under construction ????
Thank you for sharing! Great video.
what is the name of the Contact clips or where could I buy them please ? thanks. link on electronoob did not work, but If I had a part name and number I could search for it.
GREAT project, my very compliments!
great job. ill build this soon. well done!!
Just awesome 😍😘
Woow excellent project
is there 3d print case for this version?
I would have thought the centre tap of the sensor and heater are connected to the case (the 3rd connector). If that is the case then sensing and heating are independent.
i tested my t12 tips. all of them has no conection to the casing . so i think EN is corect with his conection
I have a T100 and it also has no connection between case and contacts, so EN's solution is only way to check temperature.
excellent work, a query can be adapted JBC tips?
use ts80 soldering tips, they use 3.5 mm jack
Wow awesome video
and how fast does the N channel mosfet heat enough to get destroyed?
Awesome ! Nice job.
Is there any reason you used the buck converter module instead of a simple linear regulator IC? It seems really overkill to have an adjustable buck converter when a single IC would do.
By an "single ic" do you mean a linear regulator?, if so the issue it's power dissipation, the power consumption of a project like this it's low, around 30mA (just the atmega328 takes around 20mA) but with a 20 VIN you'll have around 450mW of heat for the regulator to dissipate, with 24vin will be 570mW, so you'll need a regulator with a to-220 package for this application, so regarding space it's almost the same as the buck converter just with better efficiency. Cheers.
Yes, I mean a single linear regulator IC.
For anyone else reading this, here's the calculations to get the power dissipation number:
The Atmega328 will draw up to 20mA, but while idle (Which it is the majority of the time) the current draw is nearly zero. The OLED display will draw 15ish mA with the amount he's drawing on it, so I would estimate closer to 20 mA current draw, so 100mW power draw .
The efficiency of a linear regulator is about equal to the voltage ratio, so 5v/24v = about 20% efficiency. So the power dissipation of the regulator would be somewhere in the range of 500mw.
Now, for a through hole part, you are right that you would need a fairly large package (Like a to-220) to dissipate that amount of heat. However, with surface mount parts the board acts as a heat sink, so you can get away with a fairly small package.
Here's a link to a part I used for a similar application in a recent project:
www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/389/l78-974043.pdf
With proper heat sinking, this one can dissipate 5W of heat (For the SMD version). Realistically it'll be closer to 1-2 watts in a small board like this, but it's still plenty for the application and it's way smaller/cheaper than the buck converter module.
Thank you for the help!
Cool project! Or should I say hot🤔 What temperature wil the opposite side of the element become? Do you need a high temperature proof housing?
Not at all. The other side is quite hot. What I've noticed is that the mosfet is getting hot.
Perhaps make v3 with a switch for 12v and 24v input if space permits. Been a lot of times I needed to use a soldering pencil using the 12v from a car and couldn't.
I realize this will need to use a boost convertor to get to 24v.
Anyway, excellent build and video. Thanks.
This is all you need, get a boost-converter and place it into the 12V plug for cigarette lighter, I bet you have somewhere an old charging adapter for phones and those cases are mostly big and have room for the converter, even in massproduction I would choose this way and sell it as a set with the iron, if Apple would do that they would sell this adapter extra for hundret bucks or so xD
awesome work 👍
Great Work I love this project and ı want to make this one THANKS A LOT OF
Where do I get all the parts an the board
Thermocouples reads a temperature related to the ambient one. Then, you need a thermometer at the circuit to complete the calculation.
Hi! Can Lm258 change to L358? thank you
Very nice work !
You should change the T12 tips to the TS100 tips, also use the same clips as a ts100
professional 😮
Where is the soldering iron programmed, with Arduino?
How Much To Buy One ?
Awesome work, dude.
It would be great if we could buy the PCBs with the needed components from the same company.
lcsc.com you pay only one time shipping for the pcb beacause this is same company as JLCPCB and the components are really low price ;)
Good job man 👍
Hi, since you use 24V to power up your iron solder, i think that can be a good idea change your mosfet to part number PSMN3R0. This one is a N channel mosfet, but has small footprint size. Take a look. Great work by the way.
You can't use a NCH mosfet for this project (unless you use the bootstrap technique), it requires high side cut off in order to be able to read the thermocouple voltage. Cheers.
I see, you're right. But you can fix this with a small ones capacitor and diode, or if you prefer, you can use a BJT as a driver isolated by a resistor.
Very professional and useful!!...
could have easily used a quadratic regression instead of linear, or use a LUT with linear interpolation
Why not strap and screw tip to the board with small screws. It will be more stable too.
Nice imprument to last soldering iron project.but my little questions is what actually problem in last soldering iron.because I started making to your last soldering iron project.please help me sir.
very nice ts100 alternative
Hey, why don't you do cold junction compensation?
Could you make one from vape box mod? It is 50w box mod
Very nice!
How to lookup older videos you suggest. HELP
So this is basically a DIY version of the TS100? Noice
what about putting two 18650 cells inside a future "truly" portable version?
anyway... very very nice job!
Akrasiel8 : I dont think it would work. If I remember correctly I think he mentioned the heating circuit part was working on 24Vdc. You would need at least 5 cells to get decent performance. That would start to become a bit heavy for a portable iron. Perhaps useful in special cases, like a quick job at a customer place.
What about a boost converter? It would fry?
sasiskas one 381220 LiFePo4 does (10Ah)
sasiskas no, I meant 38120, and of course not in the handle. smaller than a decent lipo and handles more current (not the joule/weight is more, the current capability better and more safe - 10A nominal discharge). or you can build a portable DC source from it.
Your channel is great, just subscribed.
Very nice project.Maybe you should try out JBC clone tips, they are around 10usd but shorter and could save you some space. Or you can try to fit those tips for robotic soldering since they are super compact around 110mm but they are probably too expensive.
Very nice but still waiting for V3.0......
Good job.
Awesome I'm also working on similar project. I use FDS9435A Mosfet .Its in sop8 package so smaller size
Why don't you use plugs like 3.5mm jack.. That uses less space and is alsi stable
hi Electronoobs, great project
I want to make this, but not portable and i have few questions plz
i've got to use through hole component, what to92 transistor can i use to replace 2SC3356?
The irf540 does not support 24v in is gate, can i use FQP33N10 instead?
I'm beginner with arduino programming, is it complicated to change code for use rotary encoder instead of push button?
Thanks in advance
This was a very interesting project. Subscribed, and rang the bell.
Can i use this t12 tip on my old regulated temperature soldering iron? 🤔
I don't know if it will be compatible in power and if the temperature read will be precise!
great project! :D
Хороший проект, но крепления жала паяльника лучше сделать с ограничителем по посадке в глубину, чтоб всегда был хороший контакт токовых колец. Корпус можно сделать разрезной и округлой формы более привычной руке
Sir I can't download the zip file of tachometer you made in your video inorder to get the code . Plz help sir
For the 16MHz crystal you can replace it with a Murata CSTCE16M0V53-R0 SMD. It should save you some space there. Can steal one off an Arduino Pro Mini if it takes too long to ship :)
How much does one get ready to work with?
hi bro can i use HORIZONTAL MODE in f450 size drone please please must reply !!i wanna use
Horizon Mode
Similar to Angle mode, Horizon mode still works to keep the craft level when there are no inputs. But it also allows you to do flips and rolls when the stick is at full deflection. However doing aerobatics in this manner feels more like a toy grade “push-button” flip system.
where can i get excel data table for adc measuring?
Nice work, maybe later you can explain how to create pcb file in the program that you used to make your own designs, thanks for share.
10:10 small components no problem, at 500 degrees :-)
Any plans on selling it all assembled, would gladly buy
Version 3 will be on next week. I'm planning a kickstarter on this...
@@ELECTRONOOBS awesome, looking forward to it, give the big companies a run for their money by aggressive pricing, cheers from india.
Your loyal sub 🤘
Would you please make a battery powered spot welder?