I use the AO4407 p-mosfet for my DIY T12 soldering station, works pretty good and supports up to 25v on the gate, the mosfet that you're using supports only 20v, you should be using a zener diode to drop some voltage unless you aren't using 24v, of course, also check the IC on those little DC-DC converts, because there are two versions, one supports only 23v for vin. Great project!.
In itself a well thought out project, but why are you using a step down converter. The microcontroller needs so little power that you could easily use a linear regulator, e.g. an lm7805. This not only saves you a few cents, but you can also make the soldering iron narrower. The lm7805 also offers advantages such as automatic temperature switch-off.
Neat project. The user interface display seems well polished and the animations are great. Looking forward to seeing version 3. Also nice bodge wire get the buzzer footprint to work :)
I bought one of those Yihua 937D soldering stations from china. It has the same handle and heater. If you wrap the heater in tin foil and add a dab of heat transferring compound you'll have a cheap working soldering handle.
Really nice build. I love it. Speaking of clips for the heating element, I would try to wrap around 3 loops of 22AWG copper wire and solder the copper to the contact sleeve. This would provide two strong leads for the pc board for each sleeve as well as the third one that is not electrically involved. You could not be more low profile than that. If you ever need to change that heating element all you would have to do is unsolder those 6 copper leads and redo the operation. No big deal with that. Yes, it would not be a standard component but hey! We are diy after all.
@5:22 The forward clip should be grounded, or connected to earth to prevent static electricity from building up and shorting across the things being soldered.
I suggest you to post one of your designs to the EE stack exchange and ask: "what can I improve on this boards?". Just from a glance I can see many little errors that are easily fixed and will give you a better and more reliable device.
That project looks very very close to the soldering station from jurgis.me, the adc calculation in the sketch, even with inverted PWM and HIGH/LOW because the MOSFET is in high side configuration, which also looks the same like jurgis project, looks like you didn't understand that and so added later that transistor on top of the MOSFET as a driver. I always add names and sources for ideas in my codes. But still nice work.
You should add a deepsleep mode. After 10 minutes of sleep the vibrationsensor is disabled and you must click on any button to resume. Or maybe doubletap it. Therefore it can not start accidentally by a cat or some vibrations.
make some kits with the components and open an etsy shop ? btw, as you need 5V , isn't it possible to don't use the buck converter and use a USB power pack (some delivering up to 2amp) ?
YEAH, I must admit it! This is one of the best vid on the subject I saw. Very, very good job! Really nice! It was also as interesting, and I waiting to see your next vid. Thanks alot for sharing your work. Just by curiosity ; around how much all the components cost? Anyhow, thanks again.
Хороший проект, но крепления жала паяльника лучше сделать с ограничителем по посадке в глубину, чтоб всегда был хороший контакт токовых колец. Корпус можно сделать разрезной и округлой формы более привычной руке
Hi, since you use 24V to power up your iron solder, i think that can be a good idea change your mosfet to part number PSMN3R0. This one is a N channel mosfet, but has small footprint size. Take a look. Great work by the way.
You can't use a NCH mosfet for this project (unless you use the bootstrap technique), it requires high side cut off in order to be able to read the thermocouple voltage. Cheers.
I see, you're right. But you can fix this with a small ones capacitor and diode, or if you prefer, you can use a BJT as a driver isolated by a resistor.
Very nice project!! Personally I would prefer a DIY "soldering station" project, I don't need a portable soldering iron too much, and even with TS100 I found the problem that it's hard to hold for me, to always see the display etc, I would prefer to have display/controls on the station itself, and using only the iron itself as a ... well an iron :) Surely, there are tons of projects like that, indeed. What in my mind though, that it's always the quality and availability of the used tips or "cartridges". Far better than "older design" (not-direct heating), still, T12-clones from China are kinda poor compared to big names (like real T12 from Hakko, or JBC ones etc). However with the PACE ADS200, it's an interesint story. It's whole iron + cartridges are not so much expensive, and still, it's told to be almost as good as JBC ones (not the very same thermal performance, but much less costly, and has longer life, it's said ...). So it would be interesting to see to create a soldering station using the whole iron (also it's a much better quality than getting only the cartridge and try a DIY home solution for the case, cable, etc ....) + its cartridges with a custom "driver". Since the cost of the whole station of ADS200 is still too much for many people. By contrast, just buying the iron of ADS200, and cartridges for it, seems to be kind of cheap. Interestingly, it seems ADS200 station uses AVR inside, according to an EEvblog video from Dave Jones, if I remember correctly.
you can do this easy with this controler. just conect to a t12 soldering iron.
6 ปีที่แล้ว
Yeah, surely, I mean, it would be nice to see a video on it, with proper case, its look&feel, and also the power solution, since then - in contrast of portable soldering irons - it's more a natural wish to have a plug directly to the mains ... So yes, you're right, basically it's almost the same, but the several small differences to have a really nice solution make that different still as a real project.
Yeah. Portable iron we already have, I bought a ac version, without the need of power supply for something like 20 usd. But stations... They all seem to be very old and conservative. Could be. A. Good evolution made by you guys.
For the 16MHz crystal you can replace it with a Murata CSTCE16M0V53-R0 SMD. It should save you some space there. Can steal one off an Arduino Pro Mini if it takes too long to ship :)
Very nice project.Maybe you should try out JBC clone tips, they are around 10usd but shorter and could save you some space. Or you can try to fit those tips for robotic soldering since they are super compact around 110mm but they are probably too expensive.
I was trying to load the bootloader with only the atmel328p, crystal and the 22p caps. I connected my power supply to the 5V and GND, according to the silkscreen. Large currents started to flow. I tried to resolder the chip and also tried about 3 different 328p chips and two different pcb's. Still the same. Now I know why it did not work. The 5V and 24V are actually GND. The 5V and 24V are also both connected to the copper planes. I think there are a few mistakes in the silkscreen where the step down converter is connected.
Perhaps make v3 with a switch for 12v and 24v input if space permits. Been a lot of times I needed to use a soldering pencil using the 12v from a car and couldn't. I realize this will need to use a boost convertor to get to 24v. Anyway, excellent build and video. Thanks.
This is all you need, get a boost-converter and place it into the 12V plug for cigarette lighter, I bet you have somewhere an old charging adapter for phones and those cases are mostly big and have room for the converter, even in massproduction I would choose this way and sell it as a set with the iron, if Apple would do that they would sell this adapter extra for hundret bucks or so xD
In your next QnA plz show after effects timeline of your project, you are really good at editing :) Or could you post pic of it on social media? Just curious lol.
Ok, here goes some comment: I've also made some iron's with the T900 tip , the one you show in the first model of the iron. I have used other mosfet for the iron driver and a bit different approach based on other Open Source design. But the thing is I think from the video the T900 tip does make a very good iron, not as good as the T12, but a very good iron also. The problem I see is that you've used the wrong heating element for the T900 tip. I've always been very careful to choose the right Ceramic tip, they are sold in ebay and they are the Hakko clones. The reference is the A1321 for 50W and the A1322 for the 60W version. The very cheap ones are terrible ... they have a very poor heat delivery and they take a very long time time to reach the maximum temperature ... minutes maybe depending on the element. Those T900 heating elements that are sold like Hakko clones (they're more expensive then the cheapo ones of course and they're ceramic I've found them from 2.5$/each + ) those work great! They're fast and they reach easily 430C with no problem. Just a heads up ... do not loose hope on the T900 tips :) they're great and they're by fr the less expensive iron anyone can make. Also another issue with temperature is that there is a gap between the tip and the ceramic heater. That gap reduces a lot thermal efficiency. Wrap the heating element with say copper sheet and the thermal delivery will be also better.
I am new to electronics. I learn that there are some problem to drive a load from high side with a N MOSFET. Its needs a bootstrapping circuit. Am I missing something .
Hi, great video. Can you tall my why did you put the zener diode and the capacitor in tha op-amp circuit. I think that they are not needed and they capacitor will charge up to the supply voltage end you will have to wait for the capacitor to discharge to get a accurate reading ot the temperature. Also the zener diode will start to leak current to ground if the voltage across the heating element is to adove the zener diode break down voltage. Maybe I am wrong
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Thank you so much!
Can you make radar using ultrasonic sensor.
Electronoobs I was wondering...Doesn't the pcb get too hot due to the heat transfer from the soldering tip through the metal clips?🤔
Not at all. The mosfer gets a bit hot!
You could try use github.com/vdeconinck/QC3Control for power supply. It would be nicer since now qc3 power bank is common.
Make one to selling haha if you do, I want one if you make it, :D I love it
I use the AO4407 p-mosfet for my DIY T12 soldering station, works pretty good and supports up to 25v on the gate, the mosfet that you're using supports only 20v, you should be using a zener diode to drop some voltage unless you aren't using 24v, of course, also check the IC on those little DC-DC converts, because there are two versions, one supports only 23v for vin. Great project!.
In itself a well thought out project, but why are you using a step down converter. The microcontroller needs so little power that you could easily use a linear regulator, e.g. an lm7805. This not only saves you a few cents, but you can also make the soldering iron narrower. The lm7805 also offers advantages such as automatic temperature switch-off.
Neat project. The user interface display seems well polished and the animations are great. Looking forward to seeing version 3. Also nice bodge wire get the buzzer footprint to work :)
You have weird accent, but it doesnt matter. You are a genius!!! Keep up the good work.
Yeah, I can't lose my accent...lol
I bought one of those Yihua 937D soldering stations from china. It has the same handle and heater. If you wrap the heater in tin foil and add a dab of heat transferring compound you'll have a cheap working soldering handle.
looking forward to version 3, i might have to make one for myself when you release the video.
Really nice build. I love it. Speaking of clips for the heating element, I would try to wrap around 3 loops of 22AWG copper wire and solder the copper to the contact sleeve. This would provide two strong leads for the pc board for each sleeve as well as the third one that is not electrically involved. You could not be more low profile than that. If you ever need to change that heating element all you would have to do is unsolder those 6 copper leads and redo the operation. No big deal with that. Yes, it would not be a standard component but hey! We are diy after all.
Thank you!
Nice project and great work! It would be great to see also an DIY reflow station, with air temperature and air flow control.
@5:22 The forward clip should be grounded, or connected to earth to prevent static electricity from building up and shorting across the things being soldered.
True. It should be connected to adn earth screw or so. After I finished the board I was thinking about that...
It's very nice invention . We are looking for this useful soldering iron.
I suggest you to post one of your designs to the EE stack exchange and ask: "what can I improve on this boards?".
Just from a glance I can see many little errors that are easily fixed and will give you a better and more reliable device.
looking forward for version 3
WOWWW !!! I love this project !!!!! Congratulations from Spain !!!!
Awesome project must be spending a lot effort and putting all the useful coding techniques turned into application. I really inspired your works :)
I just become a patreon member on your channel :)
That project looks very very close to the soldering station from jurgis.me, the adc calculation in the sketch, even with inverted PWM and HIGH/LOW because the MOSFET is in high side configuration, which also looks the same like jurgis project, looks like you didn't understand that and so added later that transistor on top of the MOSFET as a driver. I always add names and sources for ideas in my codes. But still nice work.
yep that video idea looks like a pretty straight copy of the general ideas ...
What a perfect Project
This is actually really cool and thank you very much for making all this open source as well!
You should add a deepsleep mode. After 10 minutes of sleep the vibrationsensor is disabled and you must click on any button to resume. Or maybe doubletap it.
Therefore it can not start accidentally by a cat or some vibrations.
Great work love this.
Those side buttons really need to have their little side archers soldered to the board. This just wont do.
True!
So this is basically a DIY version of the TS100? Noice
Nice upgrade. Especially on the tip.
Awesome I'm also working on similar project. I use FDS9435A Mosfet .Its in sop8 package so smaller size
I got a T12 tip today and it measures 5.5mm, so there might be some audio 6mm socket you can take apart to get the contacts clips.
make some kits with the components and open an etsy shop ?
btw, as you need 5V , isn't it possible to don't use the buck converter and use a USB power pack (some delivering up to 2amp) ?
YEAH, I must admit it! This is one of the best vid on the subject I saw. Very, very good job! Really nice! It was also as interesting, and I waiting to see your next vid. Thanks alot for sharing your work.
Just by curiosity ; around how much all the components cost?
Anyhow, thanks again.
Holy crap, this is amazing!! Definitely something I need to do!
Simply amazing 😉
Thank you!
Может повторишь? У меня не получился собрать ( контролер дохнет
Very nice , congratulations from 🇲🇽 👍🏻
very nice ts100 alternative
Great project like I like it it’s amazing
Great Work I love this project and ı want to make this one THANKS A LOT OF
Nice little project
Хороший проект, но крепления жала паяльника лучше сделать с ограничителем по посадке в глубину, чтоб всегда был хороший контакт токовых колец. Корпус можно сделать разрезной и округлой формы более привычной руке
Hi, since you use 24V to power up your iron solder, i think that can be a good idea change your mosfet to part number PSMN3R0. This one is a N channel mosfet, but has small footprint size. Take a look. Great work by the way.
You can't use a NCH mosfet for this project (unless you use the bootstrap technique), it requires high side cut off in order to be able to read the thermocouple voltage. Cheers.
I see, you're right. But you can fix this with a small ones capacitor and diode, or if you prefer, you can use a BJT as a driver isolated by a resistor.
what's going on with the temps on 10:10 ?
Great project and great improvements :)
Very nice project!! Personally I would prefer a DIY "soldering station" project, I don't need a portable soldering iron too much, and even with TS100 I found the problem that it's hard to hold for me, to always see the display etc, I would prefer to have display/controls on the station itself, and using only the iron itself as a ... well an iron :) Surely, there are tons of projects like that, indeed. What in my mind though, that it's always the quality and availability of the used tips or "cartridges". Far better than "older design" (not-direct heating), still, T12-clones from China are kinda poor compared to big names (like real T12 from Hakko, or JBC ones etc). However with the PACE ADS200, it's an interesint story. It's whole iron + cartridges are not so much expensive, and still, it's told to be almost as good as JBC ones (not the very same thermal performance, but much less costly, and has longer life, it's said ...). So it would be interesting to see to create a soldering station using the whole iron (also it's a much better quality than getting only the cartridge and try a DIY home solution for the case, cable, etc ....) + its cartridges with a custom "driver". Since the cost of the whole station of ADS200 is still too much for many people. By contrast, just buying the iron of ADS200, and cartridges for it, seems to be kind of cheap. Interestingly, it seems ADS200 station uses AVR inside, according to an EEvblog video from Dave Jones, if I remember correctly.
you can do this easy with this controler. just conect to a t12 soldering iron.
Yeah, surely, I mean, it would be nice to see a video on it, with proper case, its look&feel, and also the power solution, since then - in contrast of portable soldering irons - it's more a natural wish to have a plug directly to the mains ... So yes, you're right, basically it's almost the same, but the several small differences to have a really nice solution make that different still as a real project.
Yeah. Portable iron we already have, I bought a ac version, without the need of power supply for something like 20 usd. But stations... They all seem to be very old and conservative. Could be. A. Good evolution made by you guys.
For the 16MHz crystal you can replace it with a Murata CSTCE16M0V53-R0 SMD. It should save you some space there. Can steal one off an Arduino Pro Mini if it takes too long to ship :)
great job. ill build this soon. well done!!
Awesome work, dude.
It would be great if we could buy the PCBs with the needed components from the same company.
lcsc.com you pay only one time shipping for the pcb beacause this is same company as JLCPCB and the components are really low price ;)
Very nice but still waiting for V3.0......
Woow excellent project
Very nice project.Maybe you should try out JBC clone tips, they are around 10usd but shorter and could save you some space. Or you can try to fit those tips for robotic soldering since they are super compact around 110mm but they are probably too expensive.
Thermocouples reads a temperature related to the ambient one. Then, you need a thermometer at the circuit to complete the calculation.
GREAT project, my very compliments!
Wow awesome video
Thank you for sharing! Great video.
professional 😮
Good job.
This was a very interesting project. Subscribed, and rang the bell.
Awesome ! Nice job.
I was trying to load the bootloader with only the atmel328p, crystal and the 22p caps. I connected my power supply to the 5V and GND, according to the silkscreen. Large currents started to flow. I tried to resolder the chip and also tried about 3 different 328p chips and two different pcb's. Still the same. Now I know why it did not work. The 5V and 24V are actually GND. The 5V and 24V are also both connected to the copper planes. I think there are a few mistakes in the silkscreen where the step down converter is connected.
Your channel is great, just subscribed.
Very nice work !
You should change the T12 tips to the TS100 tips, also use the same clips as a ts100
Good job man 👍
Very professional and useful!!...
subbed and also have a cross I tattooed on my left thumb
Hey electronicnoob how did you manage to turn on an N channel mosfet with -12V using just an npn transistor?
Just awesome 😍😘
awesome work 👍
Good video ! Why is every single youtuber that makes or reviews solder irons getting sponsored by JCLPCB ?! :) :) Good video tho!
Hermoso!!!! a ver si haces el video para el canal en español!
Perhaps make v3 with a switch for 12v and 24v input if space permits. Been a lot of times I needed to use a soldering pencil using the 12v from a car and couldn't.
I realize this will need to use a boost convertor to get to 24v.
Anyway, excellent build and video. Thanks.
This is all you need, get a boost-converter and place it into the 12V plug for cigarette lighter, I bet you have somewhere an old charging adapter for phones and those cases are mostly big and have room for the converter, even in massproduction I would choose this way and sell it as a set with the iron, if Apple would do that they would sell this adapter extra for hundret bucks or so xD
In your next QnA plz show after effects timeline of your project, you are really good at editing :)
Or could you post pic of it on social media? Just curious lol.
wow.... can use for iron and racecooker
Nice work, maybe later you can explain how to create pcb file in the program that you used to make your own designs, thanks for share.
Ok, here goes some comment: I've also made some iron's with the T900 tip , the one you show in the first model of the iron. I have used other mosfet for the iron driver and a bit different approach based on other Open Source design. But the thing is I think from the video the T900 tip does make a very good iron, not as good as the T12, but a very good iron also.
The problem I see is that you've used the wrong heating element for the T900 tip. I've always been very careful to choose the right Ceramic tip, they are sold in ebay and they are the Hakko clones.
The reference is the A1321 for 50W and the A1322 for the 60W version.
The very cheap ones are terrible ... they have a very poor heat delivery and they take a very long time time to reach the maximum temperature ... minutes maybe depending on the element.
Those T900 heating elements that are sold like Hakko clones (they're more expensive then the cheapo ones of course and they're ceramic I've found them from 2.5$/each + ) those work great! They're fast and they reach easily 430C with no problem.
Just a heads up ... do not loose hope on the T900 tips :) they're great and they're by fr the less expensive iron anyone can make.
Also another issue with temperature is that there is a gap between the tip and the ceramic heater. That gap reduces a lot thermal efficiency. Wrap the heating element with say copper sheet and the thermal delivery will be also better.
Very nice!
great project! :D
Awesome! 👍
How about a sine wave inverter for future projects?
use ts80 soldering tips, they use 3.5 mm jack
Perfect
we are waiting for version 3. is it under construction ????
It's very great video really want that soldering iron prebuilit
U should sell them
try to get hold of those new jbc nano tips
This was one very good
Awesome!
Its awesome!
excellent work, a query can be adapted JBC tips?
I am new to electronics. I learn that there are some problem to drive a load from high side with a N MOSFET. Its needs a bootstrapping circuit. Am I missing something .
could have easily used a quadratic regression instead of linear, or use a LUT with linear interpolation
wooow.....awesome
ever thought designing a solder iron that can be connected to a power bank or powered with a small lipo battery?
Good
Awesome
Hi, great video. Can you tall my why did you put the zener diode and the capacitor in tha op-amp circuit. I think that they are not needed and they capacitor will charge up to the supply voltage end you will have to wait for the capacitor to discharge to get a accurate reading ot the temperature. Also the zener diode will start to leak current to ground if the voltage across the heating element is to adove the zener diode break down voltage. Maybe I am wrong
Is there an update of this? I suggest using a PD 3.0 so you can use USB Type-C instead of a barrel plug
nice work now hotair ;)
Прикольно! Молодец!
This video made me subscribe! ;-)
Compare it to a commercially available portable soldering iron like the TS80
Why not strap and screw tip to the board with small screws. It will be more stable too.
10:10 small components no problem, at 500 degrees :-)
Amazing!
Is there a way to make this heat-up below 200deg C? I just need around 75 to 150 deg C to melt (solder some plastics - PLA, PETG, ABS, etc).
Muy bueno
you could start a indiegogo project with this....
Hey, why don't you do cold junction compensation?