60 years ago I had a 15 W Antex and thought it was perfect. 50 years ago I got a Weller PU4 and for 45 years, I thought it was perfect. 5 years ago I added the Weller variable temp to my collection to suplement my almost still perfect PU4. Now I watch this and realise that I have been wrong for 60 years and my needs are more than I realised. Although a soldering iron with an impedance to gnd bothers me a lot. It should be switchable or variable.
what a great video, i have actually bought the cheapest of jbc solder stations for about 500 euros about 4 years ago, i would totally go for a project like that now, but back then i was pretty new to electronics, the station has served me wonderfully with almost non stop standby operation, they are truly high quality tools, with your poject you get the amazing performance without paying premium . hanks for the video, great idea.
Don't know how I got here. I just clicked on a link and this page opened immediately..........I said *immediately* . Your video was educational and very entertaining. Danke Schoen!
Hello Marco Reps! Very nice! Only the original JBC soldering station has only 75 watts consumption instead of 250 watts in the European version at ~ 230 Volts AC and 50 Hz. But you will certainly find even a more economical solution for consumption!
i guess you though of this already, but if not you should definitely add a feature of turning the iron to sleep mode on about 200 degrees when you rest it on the stand and turning it off completely after 10 minutes or something. plus auto start when you pick it up. its a trully great experience, not having to press any button and having the iron ready to solder in 3-10 seconds whenever you feel like using it. at the same time the tip gets higher lifetime.
Yes, great idea! Maybe that could even be done "intelligently": The controller enters an idle state (200°C? Could be variable and depending on the idle time ...) when it didn't have to send much power to the iron for a time. But when it notices that suddenly more power is needed to maintain the idle temperature (it is touching something) it goes back up to the selected temp. BUT what influences tip life anyway? Higher temperature over time or higher currents during many steep heating cycles?
this implementation sounds too complicated in my opinion, if you'd rather avoid the coding hustle you can do it as in the jbc station which just checks continuity between the metal part of the iron and the stand. Not sure about witch factors exactly contribute at the life of an irons tip but some cheapo irons can get destroyed if left running 24hours in no time, but that is no indication cause they could be very bad quality materials or temperature control. and im not talking about burning of the heater, the main problem i have faced is not be able to tin the tip of an iron.
Temperature is the main thing that affects tip life. I have never seen a tip break mechanically or electrically, it always corrodes into uselessness long before. Temperature affects the speed at which chemical reactions like corrosion happen exponentially. So time spent at 300 C is much worse than time spent at 200 C, and 200 C is much worse than room temperature.
Is the stand detected by electrical contact? Then how does it detect when it moves over to the tool side? I always thought it was done with magnets. Will check on my unit, seems intriguing. The JBC has two rest modes: sleep and hibernate. Sleep happens in stand, it keeps the temperature at ~180C. Hibernate happens after the tool has been in stand for ~30 minutes. Temperature can only be adjusted while the tool is out of the stand, I find this highly annoying.
Great video ! But I think many of us are wondering, why not just rectify a good powerful transformer or even better, use a switching power supply with enough current and than switch the DC to the tip with a MOSFET, forgetting about full waves, zero-crossing and so forth, and maybe even reading the thermocouple while powering the heater ? What's the disadvantage in using DC if JBC is also using AC as I understand... Thanks!
If you have any problems, just join #kicad on Freenode, if you don't mind using IRC. ##electronics is also a good channel, a ton of people hang out there, including me(Spirit532).
My vote is to stick with Eagle. With Autodesk at the helm now it's getting better and better. I'm really looking forward to the release of version 8. I tried Kicad again recently, even took an intro class at my local hacker space. I still find it "clunky" and not for me. To each his own.
Great project, now you have influenced me to make my own soldering iron station. I was just looking for one, but if JBC soldering irons are that much better then DIYing one will be awesome. And with DIY I would be able to make any interface I like e.g. analog knob with precise LCD temperature reading :) And thank you for good description and influence ;)
Dude! I've thinking about a similar concept for a controller for multiple tips/handles. I love your far more simplistic approach, and I may adapt it sometime int he future. Thanks for sharing!
Telephones in multivitamin juice is also good, works for a while and then shows nice corosion... Just in case you want to dip your phone in something different next time ;-)
Great project! What’s the reason for using AC instead of DC + PWM and what are your reasons for grounding the tip? Is it because of ESD? Also what is the „fear“ of HF if using a switching mode PSU? What is the reason for that fear, you hear from time to time when dealing with which soldering station one should buy? Looking forward to see so many great videos coming 😎 Keep up the great work!
i think youtube doesnt like you. after watching 5 videos of you in a row, where i had to search for more videos of you instead of them getting recommended to me
I would love to understand the schematic. Why do you have two GND - PGND and AGND? And it seems you measure between GREEN and RED - but you also power the heater through GREEN and RED. If this cartridge is a resistor and thermo coupler in series, what color is the TC end, which the resistor end and which is the midpoint?
the box full of redbull cola make me laugh... i absolutely love this drink... Nice job with JBC. I have original JBC station and is stunning. I want to try somethink similar for T12 hakko, only for fun.
Great project! I have a couple of questions: 1) Where did you order the JBC components from? 2) Why did you go with the conical tip? Isn't the small chisel tip more useful? Thanks in advance for your reply!
totally giving away my secret tip, but mostly because I already have enough solder stations: You can find old JBC soldering stations which work just as well as the new ones for ~100 bucks on ebay sometimes.
How to you think is it good to convert the main voltage to DC first then control the heater by that DC? Do you think the DC will produce the electromigration then reduce soldering tip life time?
Super Video, wie die anderen auch! Ich baue gerade selber eine Station für den JBC T245-A auf. Allerdings mit einem AC-MOSFET Schalter, dessen Ansteuerung galvanisch getrennt über einen 12V-12V-DCDC, um die Uds = 12V unabhängig vom Rest der Schaltung zu erzeugen, realisiert wurde. Ich benutze Mosfets um die Verluste so klein wie möglich zu halten, denn es sind mW im Vergleich Triac einige Watt. Mein Trafo ist aus einer alten 50W Weller WECP-20. Das heißt eigentlich zu klein dimensioniert, deshalb heißt es alles rausholen, was dieser Trafo hergibt :-) und später evtl. ein passender Ringkerntrafo. Hardware funktioniert einwandfrei, bei der Software "happerts". Ich habe versucht es mit einem PID-Regler und Phasen-Abschnitt anzusteuern. Da bin ich, wie auch du, unglücklich über die Geräusche, die aus dem Trafo kommen. Nun hast du mich auf die Idee gebracht den Lötkolben mittels halb-sinus-wellen aufzuheizen. Das ist eine super Idee, allerdings werde/würde ich es mit Vollwellen machen, damit der Kern komplett ummagnetisiert wird und dadurch nicht in den Sättigungsbereich kommt. (siehe Hysteresekurve) Würdest du bitte deinen funktionierenden Code hochladen, damit man sich da Ideen über deinen Zwei-Punkt-Regler mit Halbwellen-Ansteuerung holen kann. Es geht mir nur um die Regelung, Timer, etc.. Hast du einen kompletten Aufheiz-Zyklus aufgenommen, wie gut und wie schnell deine Zwei-Punkt-Regelung funktioniert? (Temperaturverlauf über Zeit) Danke
@@reps He didn't even bother making a working station. His station displays a wrong temperature half the time, he uses type K circuit, he still uses that triac etc. One of the worst videos in his channel.
i bought DIY Controller Kit for HAKKO T12 Handle from aliexpress, this kit also works with similar type heater and thermocouple integrated in hotend. You need to assemble the handle and put electronics in the case and also connect power supply. The kit needs from 12v to 24v dc power. Works ok from laptop psu. Max power 70watts but depends on psu voltage. Price only about 17euro and solders realy good. way better than simple solder iron.
Hitler and Goring are standing atop the Berlin radio tower. Hitler says he wants to do something to put a smile on Berliners' faces. So Goring says: 'Why don't you jump!?
With a 1M resistor from any transformer secondary to an AVR interrupt pin. That is possible because of internal clamping diodes that limit the voltage to whatever is acceptable by the µcontroller. The 1M limits the current so that the clamping diodes don't die. Optical isolation would be better, but this was the minimal approach.
hmm.. you've omitted input protection from the instrumentation amplifier... the specifications don't allow more than 0.3v over the VCC, which is in normal operation ~5v... so it would fry the op-amp the moment it sees that 40VAC. How did you protect it from over voltages?
Really nice project! Thumbs up! Then comes the part two? I will build me also one, with a T245 handpice, but I can't programming (now, I will study it, when I have much, very much time). Thanks
Really nice and liked already. :) I like those kind of challenges, although I didn't started dealing with arduino just yet. (I need a good PC first.) So, I subscribed. :) P.S.: If you know an easy way to make a spot welder without a MOT... Please tell me! LOL
Marco can You give Your PID tuning parameters ? i got mine like: Kp=2 Ki=0.2 Kd=2 but with other iron, and it doest't work very well in term of first overshoot after powering up.
If you are using a JBC or something similarly powerful, I don't think you'll need PID, because the system is very responsive and doesn't need any 'planning ahead'. In the final version of this controller I am regulating proportionally only (heat for X mains cycles before checking again, where X = temperature_set - temperature_is or something like that)
It is not a serious problem - that start up overshoot(maybe it is even good, because the lag of heat transfer to end of the tip) For now i have bought a pretty cheap but very good in performance iron with ceramic heating element. Its is actually suprisingly good, comparing to cheap hakko clone. Here You have a link: www.china-zhongdi.com/products.asp?CataID=134&cataupper=&k=&Page=2 It's a iron for ZD-8917B station I have measured resistance of heater and it is about 2,7Ohm when cold and 5-6 when hot wich is giving about 120W of power. Still not JBC but not bat at all. For reading thermocouple im using max6675 and a calibration equation. Maybe i will make some movie about it.
I think you are on to something and people would buy it because jbc are the best and people that work in the industry no that i have the hakko fx-951 its good for the money but jbc are better
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
60 years ago I had a 15 W Antex and thought it was perfect. 50 years ago I got a Weller PU4 and for 45 years, I thought it was perfect. 5 years ago I added the Weller variable temp to my collection to suplement my almost still perfect PU4. Now I watch this and realise that I have been wrong for 60 years and my needs are more than I realised. Although a soldering iron with an impedance to gnd bothers me a lot. It should be switchable or variable.
Looking forward to seeing the final results.
what a great video, i have actually bought the cheapest of jbc solder stations for about 500 euros about 4 years ago, i would totally go for a project like that now, but back then i was pretty new to electronics, the station has served me wonderfully with almost non stop standby operation, they are truly high quality tools, with your poject you get the amazing performance without paying premium . hanks for the video, great idea.
Hahah I love all the random humour in your video
dat weiner doe
Subscribed....and usually i dont sub to random chans...keep the amazing chan up
This
Really missing your work
some times I dont know if i am watching a GreatScott channel or Marco Reps, they have equals german voice.
Don't know how I got here. I just clicked on a link and this page opened immediately..........I said *immediately* . Your video was educational and very entertaining. Danke Schoen!
Hello Marco Reps!
Very nice!
Only the original JBC soldering station has only 75 watts consumption instead of 250 watts in the European version at ~ 230 Volts AC and 50 Hz.
But you will certainly find even a more economical solution for consumption!
That 75w soldering station is the one wih c245 tips. The one with c470 tips also uses 250w.
i guess you though of this already, but if not you should definitely add a feature of turning the iron to sleep mode on about 200 degrees when you rest it on the stand and turning it off completely after 10 minutes or something. plus auto start when you pick it up. its a trully great experience, not having to press any button and having the iron ready to solder in 3-10 seconds whenever you feel like using it. at the same time the tip gets higher lifetime.
Yes, great idea! Maybe that could even be done "intelligently": The controller enters an idle state (200°C? Could be variable and depending on the idle time ...) when it didn't have to send much power to the iron for a time. But when it notices that suddenly more power is needed to maintain the idle temperature (it is touching something) it goes back up to the selected temp. BUT what influences tip life anyway? Higher temperature over time or higher currents during many steep heating cycles?
this implementation sounds too complicated in my opinion, if you'd rather avoid the coding hustle you can do it as in the jbc station which just checks continuity between the metal part of the iron and the stand. Not sure about witch factors exactly contribute at the life of an irons tip but some cheapo irons can get destroyed if left running 24hours in no time, but that is no indication cause they could be very bad quality materials or temperature control. and im not talking about burning of the heater, the main problem i have faced is not be able to tin the tip of an iron.
Marco Reps my hakko drops from 400c to 200c when I put it on the stand and heats back up in around 5 seconds, this saves the tip life
Temperature is the main thing that affects tip life. I have never seen a tip break mechanically or electrically, it always corrodes into uselessness long before. Temperature affects the speed at which chemical reactions like corrosion happen exponentially. So time spent at 300 C is much worse than time spent at 200 C, and 200 C is much worse than room temperature.
Is the stand detected by electrical contact? Then how does it detect when it moves over to the tool side? I always thought it was done with magnets. Will check on my unit, seems intriguing.
The JBC has two rest modes: sleep and hibernate. Sleep happens in stand, it keeps the temperature at ~180C. Hibernate happens after the tool has been in stand for ~30 minutes. Temperature can only be adjusted while the tool is out of the stand, I find this highly annoying.
Great video ! But I think many of us are wondering, why not just rectify a good powerful transformer or even better, use a switching power supply with enough current and than switch the DC to the tip with a MOSFET, forgetting about full waves, zero-crossing and so forth, and maybe even reading the thermocouple while powering the heater ? What's the disadvantage in using DC if JBC is also using AC as I understand...
Thanks!
I have a 12 year old JBC station that works great but its limited at 75w. I want to build this now!!
I subscribed at 2:25
lmao .... me too :D
wait, WTF!?
3:13 killed me too XD
Just the tip and only for a minute!
We all too...
Your videos are getting better and better!
Small tip: switch to KiCAD from Eagle. It's much better, and FOSS/free!
Yes, I tried KiCAD before, felt a bit clumsy then. But I'm planning to give it another chance.
If you have any problems, just join #kicad on Freenode, if you don't mind using IRC. ##electronics is also a good channel, a ton of people hang out there, including me(Spirit532).
KiCAD rocks! I've been using Eagle for ages, but their licensing limitations are too annoying, so i've tried KiCAD and i'm liking it.
My vote is to stick with Eagle. With Autodesk at the helm now it's getting better and better. I'm really looking forward to the release of version 8. I tried Kicad again recently, even took an intro class at my local hacker space. I still find it "clunky" and not for me. To each his own.
Eagle still has silly pricing and limitations.
KiCad is now a very capable professional design tool.
Great project, now you have influenced me to make my own soldering iron station.
I was just looking for one, but if JBC soldering irons are that much better then DIYing one will be awesome.
And with DIY I would be able to make any interface I like e.g. analog knob with precise LCD temperature reading :)
And thank you for good description and influence ;)
There are super cool haptic digital buttons/knobs which are open source. Incorporating round LCD screen in the knob. Would love that.
Excellent item, the quality is definately reflected in the price of these parts
hi looking forward to play with the software... you promised a link!!
Dude! I've thinking about a similar concept for a controller for multiple tips/handles. I love your far more simplistic approach, and I may adapt it sometime int he future. Thanks for sharing!
7:42 Your channel is now One of my favorites!
what about a part 2? I'd like to build one for me too!
thanks for the introduction. im going to try to make my own soldering station too with chinese integrated tips
Telephones in multivitamin juice is also good, works for a while and then shows nice corosion... Just in case you want to dip your phone in something different next time ;-)
What is multivitamin juice? I only have Red Bull Cola here :)
Great project!
What’s the reason for using AC instead of DC + PWM and what are your reasons for grounding the tip? Is it because of ESD?
Also what is the „fear“ of HF if using a switching mode PSU? What is the reason for that fear, you hear from time to time when dealing with which soldering station one should buy?
Looking forward to see so many great videos coming 😎
Keep up the great work!
It would be really great, if you could also adapt your project for using the less powerful jbc 245 cartridges too....
I think the 24V DC + mosfet approach would be perfect for that
Not 24 but 15v dc would be nice I guess.(24^2/2.7=210w, should have been 75w. 15^2/2.7=83.3, seems legit)
Could you please share the final schematics?
Eagle 6.5 ! I remember those days!
hey,
very nice project. i'd like to try this myself.
would you mind putting in the schematic and code, maybe the layout also, in the description?
i think youtube doesnt like you. after watching 5 videos of you in a row, where i had to search for more videos of you instead of them getting recommended to me
Great work, can't wait to see more
MOAR, MOAR - I want to see the finished project, it's sooo inspiring (:
@2:25 Epic JBC Project :)
I would love to understand the schematic. Why do you have two GND - PGND and AGND? And it seems you measure between GREEN and RED - but you also power the heater through GREEN and RED. If this cartridge is a resistor and thermo coupler in series, what color is the TC end, which the resistor end and which is the midpoint?
you can pre heat your board with hot air and it won't sink much heat
Great video
the box full of redbull cola make me laugh... i absolutely love this drink... Nice job with JBC. I have original JBC station and is stunning. I want to try somethink similar for T12 hakko, only for fun.
Great video as always. Keep up the great work. Think I might give this project a go.
do you have a build list and schematics for this project ?? if so where can I find them please ? thank you
keithley dmm in the background. good choice.
If you are an appreciator of the ol Keithleys, you might like some of my other videos :)
Great project! I have a couple of questions: 1) Where did you order the JBC components from? 2) Why did you go with the conical tip? Isn't the small chisel tip more useful? Thanks in advance for your reply!
Can you also try to do the modification for JBC TWEEZERS as well? I love JBC but prices are mad and i don't see many projects that include tweezers.
Awsome ! No way I could make something like this right now... Well mebye something very simple using arduino... but not much close...
You are a great unit Marco....New subscriber here.
Dam Nice Work!
love it man !
Marco accidentally draws one kind of tip while discussing another. I accidentally press the subscribe button while laughing out loud.
where is the link to the arduino code please?
I loved the video, good job mate !!! keep going on !
totally giving away my secret tip, but mostly because I already have enough solder stations:
You can find old JBC soldering stations which work just as well as the new ones for ~100 bucks on ebay sometimes.
One of us!
Very good work, many congratulations, I will copy your code to start, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
regards
Love this video, looking forward to checking out some more. Subscribed!
you really did put that expensive tip in water :O quick temperature change on the tip may cause it to crack
No, it will be just fine.
good project
keep up the good work!
I Like that Vengeful Spirit.
2:25 amazing schematic!😂
You sir are good!
How to you think is it good to convert the main voltage to DC first then control the heater by that DC? Do you think the DC will produce the electromigration then reduce soldering tip life time?
i want a station like that..how much it will cost me .. y r a genius
2:24 Never seen that schematic symbol before.
Unisolder 5.2 is the key .
Are you sharing the code and schematic for this anywhere? Would be awesome!
Marco Reps Could you share schematic with code?
Did you finish the project?
excellent and enjoyable!
Super Video, wie die anderen auch!
Ich baue gerade selber eine Station für den JBC T245-A auf. Allerdings mit einem AC-MOSFET Schalter, dessen Ansteuerung galvanisch getrennt über einen 12V-12V-DCDC, um die Uds = 12V unabhängig vom Rest der Schaltung zu erzeugen, realisiert wurde. Ich benutze Mosfets um die Verluste so klein wie möglich zu halten, denn es sind mW im Vergleich Triac einige Watt. Mein Trafo ist aus einer alten 50W Weller WECP-20. Das heißt eigentlich zu klein dimensioniert, deshalb heißt es alles rausholen, was dieser Trafo hergibt :-) und später evtl. ein passender Ringkerntrafo.
Hardware funktioniert einwandfrei, bei der Software "happerts". Ich habe versucht es mit einem PID-Regler und Phasen-Abschnitt anzusteuern. Da bin ich, wie auch du, unglücklich über die Geräusche, die aus dem Trafo kommen. Nun hast du mich auf die Idee gebracht den Lötkolben mittels halb-sinus-wellen aufzuheizen. Das ist eine super Idee, allerdings werde/würde ich es mit Vollwellen machen, damit der Kern komplett ummagnetisiert wird und dadurch nicht in den Sättigungsbereich kommt. (siehe Hysteresekurve)
Würdest du bitte deinen funktionierenden Code hochladen, damit man sich da Ideen über deinen Zwei-Punkt-Regler mit Halbwellen-Ansteuerung holen kann. Es geht mir nur um die Regelung, Timer, etc..
Hast du einen kompletten Aufheiz-Zyklus aufgenommen, wie gut und wie schnell deine Zwei-Punkt-Regelung funktioniert? (Temperaturverlauf über Zeit)
Danke
Ich arbeite noch an der Software - die Kommunikation mit dem I2C LCD ist zeit-abhängig und verträgt sich nicht mit Interrupts. Der letzte Stand
#include
#include
#define DETECT 2 //zero cross detect
#define GATE 12 //triac gate
#define PULSE 4 //trigger pulse width (counts)
float TCmV = 0;
int tempIs = 0;
int tempSet = 0;
int tempMissing = 0;
int mainsCycles = 0;
int mainsCyclesToCheck = 0;
double Thermistor(int RawADC) {
double Temp = log(10000.0 * ((1024.0 / RawADC - 1)));
Temp = 1 / (0.001129148 + (0.000234125 + (0.0000000876741 * Temp * Temp )) * Temp );
return Temp - 273.15;
}
void setup() {
delay(1000);
pinMode(DETECT, INPUT); //zero cross detect
pinMode(GATE, OUTPUT); //triac gate control
OCR1A = 1000; //initialize the comparator
TIMSK1 = 0x03; //enable comparator A and overflow interrupts
TCCR1A = 0x00; //timer control registers set for
TCCR1B = 0x00; //normal operation, timer disabled
Serial.begin(9600);
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(DETECT), zeroCrossingInterrupt, CHANGE);
}
void zeroCrossingInterrupt() { //zero cross detect
TCCR1B = 0x04; //start timer with divide by 256 input
TCNT1 = 0; //reset timer - count from zero
mainsCycles++;
}
ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect) { //comparator match
digitalWrite(GATE, HIGH); //set triac gate to high
TCNT1 = 65536 - PULSE; //trigger pulse width
}
ISR(TIMER1_OVF_vect) { //timer1 overflow
digitalWrite(GATE, LOW); //turn off triac gate
TCCR1B = 0x00; //disable timer stopd unintended triggers
}
void loop() {
if (Serial.available()) {
tempSet = Serial.parseInt();
}
mainsCyclesToCheck = sqrt(tempSet - tempIs);
if ( mainsCyclesToCheck < 1)
mainsCyclesToCheck = 1;
if (mainsCycles >= mainsCyclesToCheck) {
OCR1A = 5000;
while (mainsCycles < mainsCyclesToCheck+2)
delay(1);
TCmV = 2.5 * analogRead(A1) * (5.0 / 1023.0);
tempIs = 43.5 * TCmV + Thermistor(analogRead(0));
if (tempIs < tempSet){
OCR1A = 50;
}
else{
OCR1A = 1000;
}
Serial.print("tempIs ");
Serial.println(tempIs);
Serial.print("tempSet ");
Serial.println(tempSet);
Serial.print("OCR1A ");
Serial.println(OCR1A);
mainsCycles = 0;
}
}
Love it!
The real JBC uses also full waves for power.
Ich habe gespannt zugesehen als du es im livestrom untersucht hast ;)
ahh XD, überlege gerade selbst auch ob ich mir so was baue, ich mag den look am ende von deinem aufbau vor allem mit Magnet Halterung ;)
Der Trottel der die Aktion bei Konstantin ausgelöst hat hinterlässt jetzt auch mal ein Kommentar unter dem echt gelungen Video ;)
Trottel keines wegs!
Marco Reps criptic....thanks...
GreatScott totally stole your video it seems...
Yeh, saw it. But I recycled a lot of information from all over the web too. I'll take it as a challenge and make it better (:
@@reps He didn't even bother making a working station. His station displays a wrong temperature half the time, he uses type K circuit, he still uses that triac etc. One of the worst videos in his channel.
I subbed from this, Hoping to see the rest. Good irons are just good, Cheers
damn, didnt expect to be entertained like that when i clicked haha. new to your stuff, already diggin it
"Yeah, you better shake off those drops you idiot" HAHAHAH
You r the buddha of German Humour!!!
Why is the triac connected to the red wire at 7.08 minutes in?
Shouldn't it be connected to the blue wire that's going to the heater?
hi, excelente video, why did you use the amplifiers and not the ic max31855 or max 6675?...is There a reason to choose one instead?
i bought DIY Controller Kit for HAKKO T12 Handle from aliexpress, this kit also works with similar type heater and thermocouple integrated in hotend. You need to assemble the handle and put electronics in the case and also connect power supply. The kit needs from 12v to 24v dc power. Works ok from laptop psu. Max power 70watts but depends on psu voltage. Price only about 17euro and solders realy good. way better than simple solder iron.
Love the project. Love the comedy even more!
Any sign of the code/schematic? Time can't be the excuse with a case of Redbull :)
why didn't you use unconnected side of TC as TC output, and other, common as ground?
I think you could measure and heat at the same time, right?
awesome... this is so damn good.
Спасибо большое : )
And they say Germans have no sense of humour XD
Hitler and Goring are standing atop the Berlin radio tower. Hitler says he wants to do something to put a smile on Berliners' faces. So Goring says: 'Why don't you jump!?
Amazing. How do you measure the zero crossing of the mains valtage?
With a 1M resistor from any transformer secondary to an AVR interrupt pin. That is possible because of internal clamping diodes that limit the voltage to whatever is acceptable by the µcontroller. The 1M limits the current so that the clamping diodes don't die. Optical isolation would be better, but this was the minimal approach.
Thank you so much for replying
hmm.. you've omitted input protection from the instrumentation amplifier... the specifications don't allow more than 0.3v over the VCC, which is in normal operation ~5v... so it would fry the op-amp the moment it sees that 40VAC.
How did you protect it from over voltages?
The termocople error when grounded can be used for sleep mode my be jbc used this way for do it.
За юмор, спасибо)))
Could u plz tell why u placed the cold junction and how u implemented it plz would really appreciate it
2:26 thought
Really nice project! Thumbs up!
Then comes the part two? I will build me also one, with a T245 handpice, but I can't programming (now, I will study it, when I have much, very much time).
Thanks
video starts at 2:24 ...
What do you think of those Metcal soldering stations with heating based on the curie point?
I will try to build one without the handle :) 70€ for a hangle is bit too much.
There seems to be something "dubious" about 5:49 ... normally I'd not even notice but after 2:25 ... ... ... ...
Do you have a guide to make a DIY station for the JBC NT105-A Nano Handle?
8:58 9:01 9:02
Did you remove the file links for this project? I dont see them anymore.
any update?
Really nice and liked already. :) I like those kind of challenges, although I didn't started dealing with arduino just yet. (I need a good PC first.) So, I subscribed. :) P.S.: If you know an easy way to make a spot welder without a MOT... Please tell me! LOL
hi,
what about the software?
ty.
Marco can You give Your PID tuning parameters ? i got mine like: Kp=2 Ki=0.2 Kd=2 but with other iron,
and it doest't work very well in term of first overshoot after powering up.
If you are using a JBC or something similarly powerful, I don't think you'll need PID, because the system is very responsive and doesn't need any 'planning ahead'. In the final version of this controller I am regulating proportionally only (heat for X mains cycles before checking again, where X = temperature_set - temperature_is or something like that)
It is not a serious problem - that start up overshoot(maybe it is even good, because the lag of heat transfer to end of the tip)
For now i have bought a pretty cheap but very good in performance iron with ceramic heating element.
Its is actually suprisingly good, comparing to cheap hakko clone. Here You have a link:
www.china-zhongdi.com/products.asp?CataID=134&cataupper=&k=&Page=2
It's a iron for ZD-8917B station
I have measured resistance of heater and it is about 2,7Ohm when cold and 5-6 when hot wich is giving about 120W of power. Still not JBC but not bat at all.
For reading thermocouple im using max6675 and a calibration equation.
Maybe i will make some movie about it.
Please how can I buy the already build soldering station which can use handle and tips of jbcor hakko micro pencil tips
Can you make something for NT115-A jbc nano soldering handle ???????
I think you are on to something and people would buy it because jbc are the best and people that work in the industry no that
i have the hakko fx-951 its good for the money but jbc are better
ik. Don't drink any of that stuff, it's really bad for you.
The red bull stuff is also bad for you.