I am long term My Mate Vince subscriber but i stumbled on your videos this week and i have to say you are so underated. I really love your fault finding methods and overall videos and nicely made as well. Really enjoyable and interesting to watch. I am certain your sub count will rise in the future because of quality of your videos. 👌
Thanks Pavol 👍I've chatted with Vince a few times as he's a subscriber too 😂 He's a good guy and was actually the one who inspired me to start doing repair videos. I've repaired all kinds over the years, and it was Vince repairing a Milwaukee radio that kind of got me into this. I had a few Milwaukee tools and fancied a radio, so bought a broken one for cheaper with the intention of repairing it, and thought hmm I could do a video on it too... Thanks for commenting 👍
we have these in use at the shop being used daily all day along with t3b and t420d's and yet to have any issues except with one unit needed a cap changed and was back up and running again. but we have around 14 t3a's and its been a year roughly without any other issues at all.
I recognize those cheap green caps they like to use. seen many fail in Samsung and Dell stuff. I would imagine with some good Panasonic caps or Nichicon etc would fix them long term.
Thanks 👍I think on eevblog a few people had changed the capacitors as a matter of precaution. I might do the same. After making the video, the diode failed fully. I think it was the bond wires inside of it failed. I replaced the diode and it's been fine since. I updated the video description with all of this information including the schematic. Thanks for commenting 🙂
Fantastic stuff. It's such a pity that so few people ever even consider trying to repair things nowadays; most people just send things straight to the rubbish dump without even attempting a repair. It'd be great if basic soldering and repair was a subject in schools, even basic stuff like replacing components and resoldering dry joints.
Thanks, this did fail again about 3 weeks later, I think the bond wires in the diode had failed. Replacing the diode fixed it permanently and it's been working fine since. I updated the video description with this info and the schematic.
@@hypnoz7871 That may be so sometimes, but if something that costs €300-500 breaks, and you just dump it, then it will cost you another €300-500 to buy a new one. And that might be a week's wages in work. So you will be spending time anyway, just in a different way. Whereas it might take you 5 minutes, or maybe an hour to repair it. Like I've lost count of the amount of times I've taken something apart, couldn't see a problem, and put it back together and it worked fine again. Or I might just see an obvious broken wire and it's fixed in 2 minutes.
Aixum T3A est une tres bonne station de soudage et qui pour certain est l'equivalent d'une JCB de 400€ les temperatures sont tres precises et calibrables elle est tres compacte bref un must pour specialistes en reparation electroniques! bon boulot Mike ça vaut le coup de la reparer!
Looks like a great little iron that one, and it heats up really fast, last one i worked with took about 3-4 min before you could work with it. You can always touch up the glass chip with a bit of paint. But thanks for a great video really enjoy watching them
Thanks Morten. Yes I quite like it and it does heat up really fast, and also switches off when I place it back in the holder. That's usually the 'beep' you hear when I'm soldering some on a repair video :)
To get into my T3A I needed to remove the face plate with some heat, and their are 4 sxrew underneath. Also the main power board was siliconed in place between the bottom of the unit and some transistors on the bottom of the board. I used a metal shim to cut the Silicone. I shorted my unit by touching to live 110V AC. Tips started getting red hot. Fix was easy. Replaced a mosfet right next to the soldering tip plug
@@IliaKuznetsov-kf5yt Thanks for sharing 👍I really could have done with a smaller tip for this or a smaller iron for the job I was doing in the video later out today (Motorcycle Headset). What a pain that one was!
Interesting video. I have the T3B version which is my daily driver for SMD work and am really impressed with its capabilities. Just a shame about yours failing. Hopefully a long term fix. Karl
Thanks Karl. Still seems to be working fine. Worst case scenario if I couldn't get parts I would have just added a small 2.8v regulator board off Ebay to power the microcontroller from the 24v.
Shame it went pear shaped. That's my daily driver, so thanks for showing a possible fix if it goes wrong. I can't fault mine; it's been a great station so far.
I have one of these and love it! I've had my 2 years, (it's currently 2024). I don't have that tip holder you have. Yours is much nicer. I guess my dementia kicked in, I don't know what you did to fix it.
The 5.1V diode seemed to have failed internally as when I re-soldered it, it worked for around 3 weeks (after making the video) then stopped working again. I think the bond wires inside had become disconnected due to thermal expansion possibly? I ended up replacing the diode and it's been fine since. I think I put a pinned comment or updated the video description with this.
4:48 Most low volume pcb manufacturers add a serial number without the customer asking for it. You need to specifically specify they shouldn't and it costs a tiny bit more to do so. If someone gets hold of that number they can have exact duplicates made without needing to reverse engineer anything.
I have heard great things about this company and irons. The build quality is excellent for their price. They aim to clone features of the very expensive JBC units. In fact they use the same tips. However I do recommend buying the JBC brand tips and taking care of them as they are slightly better quality. Another company that seems to be coming up is Sugon. The big boom in these micro soldering stations came about when cell phone and tablet repair was at peek. Now that it's dying out I see less innovation. But it got good to the point of having decent budget options besides Weller. JBC and Metcal.
It turned out not to be dry joints in the end but the bond wires seem to have failed in the diode itself (pinned comment under video). About 3 weeks after the video it failed again but replacing the diode has fixed it and it's still working currently without any problems 🙂
The price of these seems to have almost doubled from when I bought it, to be fair despite its complexity I really like it. It heats up instantly like in a second. I used to use Antex irons prior to getting it. Thanks for commenting and good luck with whatever iron you get.
I’ve got this station and it’s good, I seen on videos how the newer firmware causes a big overshoot so I wouldn’t update it, once you connect it to that software it will update automatically so I won’t even connect it, one thing I noticed, there’s no way that power supply is capable of 200w and even if it was the soldering iron tips and handle can only do 130w
@@BuyitFixit I noticed at the end of the video, yours overshoots a lot, in the video I seen it never overshooted a lot but after he updated then it started to overshoot a lot, I just done some tests and I’m on the old firmware but what I noticed was with original JBC tips there’s no overshoot at all, but with non original tips it overshoots, I’ve got a few different brands and some overshoot more than others, the original JBC tips are not only more stable with the temperature but no overshooting. I’ve got the T115 version aswell which you can use the t115 or t210 handle, no overshoot on JBC tips or non original tips
I use JBC tips with mine and the larger ones ~5mm pull a measured 180W from this thing, peaking at 200W from cold, so it is certainly capable of it. The temps are very stable with JBC tips and I've soldered 1/2"copper pipe with a 5mm chisel showing the awesome power in these tiny tips.
Thanks👍I had already added it to the video description a while back after finding a schematic someone reverse engineered on github. But thank you for trying to be so helpful 🙂
Thanks 🙂 It actually failed again a couple of weeks later. I updated the video description with what the actual fault turned out to be. The diode I soldered must have been faulty internally and heating it caused it to work temporarily. I replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since 👍
Thanks Aaron 👍The earlier videos were just recorded using an old iPhone 6 that a friend gave me. The camera I'm using now is a Sony HDR-CX450 which I bought used from Ebay, with the rode microphone I repaired in a previous video plugged into it. The microscope is a trinocular one, with a 48mp camera I did a video on it comparing it to the Adonstar microscope a few videos back. It's on a boom arm so not very portable and I find it a bit zoomed in too much on the camera even with a .5x barlow lens on it. Hope that helps 🙂👍
I know this is now a year old but I did notice the mains voltage was almost 252 Volts....that is the limit for mains supply in the UK , you may have high voltage incoming on the mains, that may well be exceeding the max volts for some equipment if it creeps up higher.
@@BuyitFixit Wish I had watched this a year ago ...been looking at upgrading my solder station so came across your video. Glad you got it tapped down, in a previous life that was my world.
I'm pretty sure I measured it and it measured fine. After making the video it failed again and I ended up replacing the diode and it's been fine ever since. I think the diode was breaking down internally and heating it with the iron temporarily fixed the problem for around 3 weeks.
Another nice repair,,thx,,. Ps2 had those 0 "resistors"..its a fuse i guess. i used to just brigde the blown ones in PS2 fatty with a thin copper cord from a cable . had 4-5 stone dead ps2 where that was blown.. none came back and reportly worked ever after and with a new mod chip installed. i used to chip game consoles at my shop ( This was on the latest versions fat ps2 with one board...first fat ones had a 2 part board
Does it beep every time you take it out and put it back? I'm taking my old Weller (that has been going for 25 years) in and out 50 times a day, I think the beep might become annoying.
I just got a T3A, I like my T3B. The T245 handle makes a noise, like a fast clicking noise, which I’m heavily assuming is a bad electrical connection, but I don’t know quite enough to know for sure. Before I pull the thing apart, has anyone experienced this? I don’t want to pull it apart if I don’t have to, but it should not be making any noise, right? Help!
@@BuyitFixit I’ve contacted both Aixun and the seller… sent them a video of it, waiting to hear back. It could be considered a buzz, I suppose… if it’s just the way it is, then so be it, but it definitely makes me a little nervous… as long as it works and doesn’t explode, I’ll be fine with it. It doesn’t see a ton of use, as it is my field soldering kit for work. I don’t have to solder all that much on the job, and it’s usually nothing too difficult or complex, so the T3A will likely do just fine :)
No reason to assume anything about the rest of the build quality based on the case: It’s a standard off-the-shelf extruded aluminum case. You see them used for everything from soldering stations to hard drive enclosures to the WeeC mini PC from TheRasteri. In other words, they didn’t design or make it. They just picked a generic enclosure and shoved it in.
Good point. I'll bear that in mind. I just assumed if they used a better quality case instead of some cheap plastic one it may have reflected on the rest of the build. We all know what they are like to save a few pennies...
Sh%ty point of this case is 1) hard to get into device. Some LID could help a lot. 2) It's aluminium, meaning you need DOUBLE care when operate with boards (to avoid short circuit). Normal plastic box with lid could be much better solution.
@@daitedve1984 IMHO: AC grounded solder stations are saver than ungrounded ones. Grounded ones have no PWR inducted voltage on minus at the dc side and also not on the solder iron.
Heh, capacitors aren't scary. It's the voltages inside them that can be. You can always check if they have any voltage in them, and discharge them. I like this iron, it's good. I think the tips could be slightly better quality but you can use JBC tips in it I've been told.
@@BuyitFixit I have a pinecil already so I don't need one, but gosh I'd be lying if I said I'm not in love! I don't even have the space for it lol :D how do you discharge them? I'm an embed girl and 24v is as high as I've usually gone so that's why I'm scared
Well, in my younger days we just used to shove a screwdriver across the two terminals and get a loud bang, but I wouldn't recommend that these days. You can make a proper capacitor discharge tool out of a resistor and some heat shrink and wire. There's a few tutorials on the net. I just did a search and found one on iFixIt site called "Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool". Hope that helps 👍
When I had that scope it was always noisy like that. I had the t3b which was doa and kept shorting the tips. I recapped it, changed components, reflowed all the joints. Still killed tips then shut off. I threw it in the closet out of frustration because they wouldn't honor the warranty and called me names. Seller phonefix on ali not China phonefix. I turned it on six months later and it's worked great ever since. I'm baffled
Hi Joey, I did an update in the video description where I replaced that diode. I think the bond wires were failing and heating it up with the iron made them connect internally for a few weeks. I also found a schematic that someone reverse engineered which may be of use if you have any more problems 👍
@Buy it Fix it sorry for rambling. I have ptsd and I feel like I just accept this kinda shit all the time. Great content by the way. I'm gonna post a workshop tour when I get my microscope and such.
Could well be. The symptoms returned after a few weeks so the bond wires in the diode seemed to have been breaking down internally and the heat seemed to make them reattach. I since replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since.
Pronunciation: I-Shoe-In or I-shun with a slight z sound on the shoein at the start. Like zhun, one sylybol. Depending on where you are in China. Thanks!
Great video! I do have a question that sorta a sideways topic... What is the need for such equipment. I have been engineering my own circuits, etching and milling my own circuit boards for years. I have never used anything g other than a $10 or less amazon special soldering iron. They last forever (current one is 5 years old and still going strong with the same tip). Never had any issues using it at all. I just keep the temp maxed and go to town. I'm asking why these exist because I am honestly wondering if I am doing something completely wrong... I just can't understand why these get so expensive when my $7.99 iron has been making me happy for years.
I used to use an Antex iron, but I really like this one. It heats up in around 3 seconds and automatically turns off when I place it back in the stand. I can turn it up and down. It's rated for 200W although I've not tested that.
Sorry I'm not 100% but I did just try scraping the metal part where the heater plugs into with my dental pick and it didn't mark it, so I think it's stainless.
I use this station all the time. The only issue I've had was last week when soldering a wire on an old bell that someone brought into our local repair cafe. I forgot to unplug the ac transformer powering the bell and the iron started glowing red! Obviously it must have interfered with the temperature sensing.
@@BuyitFixit Amazing to hear, I was toying with the idea of getting one of these T3A's or a T320 to get back into electronics but read about the grounding issue on both these models causing it go overload the tip on certain grounded connections, good to hear its getting some professional use :) T3A is a little cheaper so may go that route, You North-East by chance? Love your vids, only found your channel today but you earned a sub, keep up the great content :)
I know this iron isn't perfect, but I'm not doing a review on it. I was doing a repair as mine stopped working. I haven't upgraded the firmware since I got it so can't comment on the latest firmwares.
I'm rather late seeing this video, but I think my first try would have been to power it using the 24V jack from the back panel. If that works then the power supply is bad, and if that doesn't then the front panel is bad, and you can take off the front face without even removing the back.
Thanks Mike, I wasn't sure how the 24v jack was wired up as I've never used it. I wasn't sure how the front face came off, but now I know (1 small chip later 😂😂😂)
I know you soldered the multimeter test lead prong back on !...you know amazon sell them leads separately quite cheaply !? i got a couple of spare sets !
Thanks Mike. I think I originally got the set from either amazon or eBay. I really should order another set as they aren't that expensive, I just haven't got round to it.. and I kind of needed it there and then kind of thing. But thanks for letting me know!
SMT control board diagnosis: Poor solder joint quality control. This is your classic PCB assembly poor solder joint integrity failure. Bottom line: The PCB SMT assembly solder joint integrity on the front panel control board should never have passed manufacturing quality control inspection. Even the hand soldered front panel through hole connector solder joints look cold. This is an important video because it highlights the importance of PCB assembly solder joint quality control, or solder joint integrity inspection.
Thanks for commenting, I did a small update to the video description as this stopped work about 3 weeks later. It seems the diode itself must have been breaking down internally. Possibly the bond wires, as heating it made it work again and I just assumed a dry joint. I replaced the zener diode and it's been fine ever since. Thanks for your thoughts and comment 👍
I have a similar problem with this station. I haven't opened it yet because I'm waiting for a decision from Mr. Chinese. When the station is turned on, you can see a green light inside the housing (probably SMPS is ok), but the display will remain black. I plugged it into my computer and it boots up normally. It follows that the problem is somewhere between the output from the 24V SMPS and the logic board. I don't want to open it because I hope the seller will send me a new station or refund my money. The station operated less than a month.
@@BuyitFixit The problem started with the tip heating up. When I took the tip out of the stand, it was heating up normally, the station is heating up the tip to maintain the temperature and just during this heating up it turned off and I heard some buzzing inside and I also thought about the bad contact of the plug from the SMPS output. Now it won't boot from SMPS and as I mentioned before there is probably a problem between the SMPS output and the logic board.
Anyone having trouble using original JBC tips on this station? I wonder if the original tips didn't damage it. I bought the station and immediately ordered tips from TME. I only tested the ones from aixun and switched to the original JBC. The station has been operating less than two weeks and has died. In an extensive topic on evvblog, a user wrote that the station "buzzes" when heating the original JBC tips, and when using those from aixun, the "buzz" does not occur. Has anyone logged a problem like this? 🤔🤔🤔
I'm not 100% on that one. I did see the thread on eevvlog. My station died again last night but I brought it back to life again. On mine the diode next to the small psu on the front panel seems to be working intermittently so I've ordered a new 4.7v zener for it. Heating the diode up seems to bring it back to life for a while.
@@BuyitFixit Maybe this zener diode should be for more power. I'm still struggling with what to do with this station. The Chinese guy offered me a refund when i sends back the station or sends me a new station. I'm afraid that the new one may have the same problem, I'm not sure that the problem is not in the handle, I compared the tips with there are and there are small differences in the shape of the tips ... If it turns out that there the station does not want to work with JBC tips, it is useless for me, because aixun has only 3 tips in its offer for T3A.
I think the zener just provides the voltage for the enable pin on the psu chip so there shouldn't be any load on it. I've never tried any other tips except for the ones it came with.
@@BuyitFixit before buying, I watched many reviews of this station, I read the comments under them and everyone agreed that the original JBC tips work with this station without any problems. I think most of the buyers were hoping to be able to use JBC tips, because as I mentioned before, aixun only offers 3 tips for T3A, what kind of station is this that can only handle 3 tips? shit not a station in my opinion (no offense). I don't know the cause of the station's death, the cave from JBC, or the shitty performance. I have a KSGER 2.1 station and it has been working without problems for over 2 years. aixun was 3x more expensive and died after two weeks. My video: th-cam.com/video/oL4-pFmsd8w/w-d-xo.html¹
I've had the electricity company out since and they dropped it down a tap on the transformer at the pole. We are very rural so it's all overhead lines and pole transformers. My nearest neighbour is 1/4 mile away..
Did you notice issues with iron getting very hot on grounded boards or voltage leaks with this station? I am thinking of buying this station, but heard these issues exist in this video: th-cam.com/video/hGK7s-9tXs4/w-d-xo.html
I've not personally, but I think there were some issues with different firmwares, but you should be able to update or downgrade if you have any problems.
Bright idea: why having all your skills you still use chineese cr@p?? You're profi, you can make this station yourself! Of course tips and handle you buy, but other parts can be easy bought and assembled (with MUCH more robust scheme). Literally you need some STM32 and power regulator. What's hard here?
True, although I'm not a professional 🙂. Time is one of the main factors. TH-cam is just a hobby currently. It doesn't pay the bills. I could have probably rolled my own as I've done similar with an incubator I made out of a wine fridge, designed the pcb and wrote the software. It was internet connected and logged all the temperature and humidity to things board.
I think the diode was breaking down internally due to thermal expansion. Heating it with the iron fixed it for a couple of weeks but I eventually replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since (I added this in the video description a while back).
Why but WHY! did you put back the glass when the test was not even done!!!!!! Sorry been debugging intermittent bug all my life long so when I see someone fully assemble back a device that is not totally tested especially with glued parts I turn green, red, black and then I burst! I am sure that you did tested it back fully before assembling it after you found the fault and you did not showed it in the video to shorten it a bit. And I do understand that. but other user that are not fully used to electronic debugging could get the wrong message here.. And the message is simple, ALWAYS test the whole thing many time before gluing back some parts that are not needed for the full function of a device!
Yes, I do sometimes give it a quick test before assembly, and sometimes remove that to shorten the video as you said. The glass actually keeps falling off since I removed it so I think the adhesive weakened the first time it was removed. The station did go faulty again about 3 weeks later (I think the diode was breaking down internally and the heat caused the bond wires inside to reconnect for a while). I ended up replacing the diode, and it's been find since. Some things you can't test without re-assembly or 90% re-assembly, such as the Milwaukee Impact driver I recently looked at. The casing actually holds the motor shaft in position, and needs pretty much all the screws back in to hold it. Thank you for your thoughts and comments.
The zener diode on the 3v3 power supply was faulty. I thought originally it was a dry joint as when I re-soldered it, it made the unit work. About 3 weeks later it died again, I think the bond wires inside the diode had failed and heating it caused it to reconnect for a while. I eventually replaced the diode and it's been fine since (I updated the video description explaining all of this, but I guess you missed it).
06:54 -- Why is it on the Right ' HAND ' side and not the Right Ear side or the Right FOOT side The big question is why are you still at your age - associating left and right with BODY PARTS - Your early childhood kindergarten brainwashing was very successful As for me - I can differentiate between left-side and right-side without using body parts associations
Hmm it could be a British thing perhaps and I guess you are from the US by your use of kindergarten. It's often said over here. There was even a song called 'pass the dutchie on the left hand side' by a British band called musical youth.
Still baffles me why people buy these Chinese crap knock-offs. Not only can burn down the house, but also will not work in the near future. The poor man pays twice. Please save money and buy Hakko/JBC/etc.
Granted not the same model, but I bought a Chinese clone a few years ago and one day it decided to stop regulating the temperature. I'd just gone out of the room for a few minutes, when I got back the iron's tip was glowing red and the handle was starting to melt. Thankfully I was around to switch it off, but the outcome could have been very different. Several lessons learned.
Sounds like the output mosfet could have shorted. Perhaps better stations may have two as a failsafe feature and if it overheats it would still be able to cut the power and sound some kind of alarm perhaps. I think that would be the approach I might use if designing such a device.
No, it was the zener diode that regulates the power going to the buck converter. The bond wires inside the diode must have detached and heating it with the iron must have expanded the metal and the wires connected again. I had the same issue a couple of weeks later and ended up replacing the zener. It's been fine since. I updated the video description explaining this.
Update: Please see video description for an update on this, info on the unidentified parts and schematic.
Wrong. It is MP9942GJ-Z
Thanks Nix Nax, I've updated it 👍
Great fix, thank you for getting us inside the T3A, I was curious to see how well it is made.
Thanks 👍Glad you found it useful!
I am long term My Mate Vince subscriber but i stumbled on your videos this week and i have to say you are so underated. I really love your fault finding methods and overall videos and nicely made as well. Really enjoyable and interesting to watch. I am certain your sub count will rise in the future because of quality of your videos. 👌
Thanks Pavol 👍I've chatted with Vince a few times as he's a subscriber too 😂 He's a good guy and was actually the one who inspired me to start doing repair videos. I've repaired all kinds over the years, and it was Vince repairing a Milwaukee radio that kind of got me into this. I had a few Milwaukee tools and fancied a radio, so bought a broken one for cheaper with the intention of repairing it, and thought hmm I could do a video on it too... Thanks for commenting 👍
yes i agree this guy is way better than the others
we have these in use at the shop being used daily all day along with t3b and t420d's and yet to have any issues except with one unit needed a cap changed and was back up and running again. but we have around 14 t3a's and its been a year roughly without any other issues at all.
Nice 👍Thanks for letting me know! They seem fairly reliable then from what you said.
I recognize those cheap green caps they like to use. seen many fail in Samsung and Dell stuff. I would imagine with some good Panasonic caps or Nichicon etc would fix them long term.
Thanks 👍I think on eevblog a few people had changed the capacitors as a matter of precaution. I might do the same. After making the video, the diode failed fully. I think it was the bond wires inside of it failed. I replaced the diode and it's been fine since. I updated the video description with all of this information including the schematic. Thanks for commenting 🙂
Great fix, Mick. Good to see it was not a costly fix!
Thanks 👍
Fantastic stuff.
It's such a pity that so few people ever even consider trying to repair things nowadays; most people just send things straight to the rubbish dump without even attempting a repair.
It'd be great if basic soldering and repair was a subject in schools, even basic stuff like replacing components and resoldering dry joints.
Thanks, this did fail again about 3 weeks later, I think the bond wires in the diode had failed. Replacing the diode fixed it permanently and it's been working fine since. I updated the video description with this info and the schematic.
Repairing things can require a considerable amount of time investment.
Time is the most valuable of all assets.
@@hypnoz7871 That may be so sometimes, but if something that costs €300-500 breaks, and you just dump it, then it will cost you another €300-500 to buy a new one.
And that might be a week's wages in work. So you will be spending time anyway, just in a different way.
Whereas it might take you 5 minutes, or maybe an hour to repair it.
Like I've lost count of the amount of times I've taken something apart, couldn't see a problem, and put it back together and it worked fine again. Or I might just see an obvious broken wire and it's fixed in 2 minutes.
@@BuyitFixit still working?
@@yotoprules9361 yes, used it in the last video (last week)👍🙂
Really enjoyed watching this, I have one of these stations and was really interesting seeing it taken apart. Great watch and fix as well.
Thanks SURGE! Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully you learnt from my mistake and won't chip the glass on yours if you ever need to take it apart!
@@BuyitFixit easy done, happened to all of us. Me more than most😂. Really was a great video and really enjoyed it. Thanks for the share.
Aixum T3A est une tres bonne station de soudage et qui pour certain est l'equivalent d'une JCB de 400€ les temperatures sont tres precises et calibrables elle est tres compacte bref un must pour specialistes en reparation electroniques! bon boulot Mike ça vaut le coup de la reparer!
Merci beaucoup 👍
Looks like a great little iron that one, and it heats up really fast, last one i worked with took about 3-4 min before you could work with it. You can always touch up the glass chip with a bit of paint. But thanks for a great video really enjoy watching them
Thanks Morten. Yes I quite like it and it does heat up really fast, and also switches off when I place it back in the holder. That's usually the 'beep' you hear when I'm soldering some on a repair video :)
Excellent fault find. Great video. Really enjoyed it. Looks like a nice iron station
Thanks Arreglando! Yes it's quite a nice station. It was one of my friends that recommended it.
To get into my T3A I needed to remove the face plate with some heat, and their are 4 sxrew underneath. Also the main power board was siliconed in place between the bottom of the unit and some transistors on the bottom of the board. I used a metal shim to cut the Silicone.
I shorted my unit by touching to live 110V AC. Tips started getting red hot.
Fix was easy. Replaced a mosfet right next to the soldering tip plug
Nice 👍🙂
Wow thats a rapid heating too on that sucker. Nice machine
Thanks. Yes about 3 seconds! That's one reason why I like it. I used it a fair bit today and it's been fine so fingers crossed!
I use Quick TS11 for microsoldering, and it's absolutely awesome for that purpose.
@@IliaKuznetsov-kf5yt Thanks for sharing 👍I really could have done with a smaller tip for this or a smaller iron for the job I was doing in the video later out today (Motorcycle Headset). What a pain that one was!
Well made video. Just like a detective solving a mystery. 😊
Thanks naidol🙂 👍
I got the same soldering station. It has good performance with genuine JBC tips.
I had been thinking about getting some of those tips, as the tips that came with it are OK, but not great.
@@BuyitFixit There so many cloned tips and they are unpredictable. I'd recommend genuine JBC tips instead.
Interesting video. I have the T3B version which is my daily driver for SMD work and am really impressed with its capabilities. Just a shame about yours failing. Hopefully a long term fix. Karl
Thanks Karl. Still seems to be working fine. Worst case scenario if I couldn't get parts I would have just added a small 2.8v regulator board off Ebay to power the microcontroller from the 24v.
@@BuyitFixit Smart!
Shame it went pear shaped. That's my daily driver, so thanks for showing a possible fix if it goes wrong. I can't fault mine; it's been a great station so far.
Cheers Nathan!
Might be worth pinning a comment with the zener diode replacement info, because I missed the description on my tablet.
Good idea, I'll do that 👍
Thanks for the tear down video… it was really helpful.
Thanks sacem52 I'm glad you found it helpful 👍
Good to see you got it to work again. I have this one myself, it is just a cheap little beast.
Thanks 👍
Just want to let you know that I checked out your content and subscribed to the channel based on My Mate Vince’s recommendation. Cheers!
Thanks Ranger CV4, hopefully you'll like my stuff! 👍
Great video, I know these are very popular and I can see why... decent soldering kit is usually a lot more expensive.
Thanks 👍yes I really like it. It heats up almost instantly and it's quite powerful 🙂
I have one of these and love it! I've had my 2 years, (it's currently 2024). I don't have that tip holder you have. Yours is much nicer.
I guess my dementia kicked in, I don't know what you did to fix it.
The 5.1V diode seemed to have failed internally as when I re-soldered it, it worked for around 3 weeks (after making the video) then stopped working again. I think the bond wires inside had become disconnected due to thermal expansion possibly? I ended up replacing the diode and it's been fine since. I think I put a pinned comment or updated the video description with this.
@@BuyitFixit - I feel your pain!
4:48 Most low volume pcb manufacturers add a serial number without the customer asking for it. You need to specifically specify they shouldn't and it costs a tiny bit more to do so. If someone gets hold of that number they can have exact duplicates made without needing to reverse engineer anything.
Interesting. I had to look back at the video as it was a while back when I did this one. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Great troubleshooting mate. Well done. 👍👍
Thanks Jacques 👍
Thanks for that. Very interesting. Commenting for the algorithm. You deserve more subscribers!
Thanks Harry 👍appreciate your support 🙂
I have no clue about all this stuff but recently subbed and love your videos mate. Hopefully learn from them 😊 watch you an bigclive all the time lol.
Awesome, thank you!
I have heard great things about this company and irons. The build quality is excellent for their price. They aim to clone features of the very expensive JBC units. In fact they use the same tips. However I do recommend buying the JBC brand tips and taking care of them as they are slightly better quality. Another company that seems to be coming up is Sugon. The big boom in these micro soldering stations came about when cell phone and tablet repair was at peek. Now that it's dying out I see less innovation. But it got good to the point of having decent budget options besides Weller. JBC and Metcal.
Thanks for that, yes I had been thinking of getting some JBC tips for it, a few people said that they are better quality 👍
Heya, really nice repair does dry joins are the most difficalt to find just like intermitent faults very difficult to diagonse them
It turned out not to be dry joints in the end but the bond wires seem to have failed in the diode itself (pinned comment under video). About 3 weeks after the video it failed again but replacing the diode has fixed it and it's still working currently without any problems 🙂
I use one of these. Awesome soldering iron!
Yes, I like it too 👍
After watching this repair, I cancelled my order and bought a simple soldering iron. If that goes bad, I just chuck it away.
Less hassle.
The price of these seems to have almost doubled from when I bought it, to be fair despite its complexity I really like it. It heats up instantly like in a second. I used to use Antex irons prior to getting it. Thanks for commenting and good luck with whatever iron you get.
@@BuyitFixitI’m tempted to design my own but I have way too many side projects already ;-;
Another very interesting video. I have this exact one and i love it, but the on/off switch occasionally does not work.
Thanks Jonome! I recently updated the video description with some additional information 👍
I have the exact same problem. Did you replace the switch?
Nice iron, i thought ill have a look on fleeBay, 186 / 200 quid, well wont be getting one of them for christmas. nice repair.
Wow they have gone up in price then. I think I only paid around £100 or so..
That was a tough one. Good vid.
Thanks j s. I think sometimes a bit luck comes into play alongside experience.
Damn man you answe so many comments personally, its amazing 😊 but be careful man to not burn out yourself, any how keep up the great work 💪
Thanks 👍
I’ve got this station and it’s good, I seen on videos how the newer firmware causes a big overshoot so I wouldn’t update it, once you connect it to that software it will update automatically so I won’t even connect it, one thing I noticed, there’s no way that power supply is capable of 200w and even if it was the soldering iron tips and handle can only do 130w
Thanks for the info Imran Ali👍
@@BuyitFixit I noticed at the end of the video, yours overshoots a lot, in the video I seen it never overshooted a lot but after he updated then it started to overshoot a lot, I just done some tests and I’m on the old firmware but what I noticed was with original JBC tips there’s no overshoot at all, but with non original tips it overshoots, I’ve got a few different brands and some overshoot more than others, the original JBC tips are not only more stable with the temperature but no overshooting. I’ve got the T115 version aswell which you can use the t115 or t210 handle, no overshoot on JBC tips or non original tips
Thanks for that. I might try some JBC tips!
I use JBC tips with mine and the larger ones ~5mm pull a measured 180W from this thing, peaking at 200W from cold, so it is certainly capable of it.
The temps are very stable with JBC tips and I've soldered 1/2"copper pipe with a 5mm chisel showing the awesome power in these tiny tips.
I have this unit, it's brilliant!
Yes, I think mine is great too 🙂👍
I pronounce it Aixun for what it's worth. 🙂 Great video, I recently subscribed and have enjoyed all of them. Thanks!
Thanks Larry 👍welcome aboard 🙂
From Aliexpress in case it helps other : Original MP9942GJ-Z MP9942GJ Marking IALLN 1ALLN TSOT-23-8 RS Components has a datasheet.
Thanks👍I had already added it to the video description a while back after finding a schematic someone reverse engineered on github. But thank you for trying to be so helpful 🙂
Good work!
Thanks, it did fail again a few weeks later so I updated the video description and how I fixed it permanently 👍
Great fault find 👌 nice
Thanks 🙂 It actually failed again a couple of weeks later. I updated the video description with what the actual fault turned out to be. The diode I soldered must have been faulty internally and heating it caused it to work temporarily. I replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since 👍
@@BuyitFixit nice, how did you know what rating the diode was please?
I absolutely love what you do. What Camara and microscope do you use? I need them and they look great
Thanks Aaron 👍The earlier videos were just recorded using an old iPhone 6 that a friend gave me. The camera I'm using now is a Sony HDR-CX450 which I bought used from Ebay, with the rode microphone I repaired in a previous video plugged into it. The microscope is a trinocular one, with a 48mp camera I did a video on it comparing it to the Adonstar microscope a few videos back. It's on a boom arm so not very portable and I find it a bit zoomed in too much on the camera even with a .5x barlow lens on it. Hope that helps 🙂👍
I know this is now a year old but I did notice the mains voltage was almost 252 Volts....that is the limit for mains supply in the UK , you may have high voltage incoming on the mains, that may well be exceeding the max volts for some equipment if it creeps up higher.
@@radiotowers1159 Hey 🙂Yes, I got on to the electric company and they dropped the transformer a tap. Yes I had it as high as 257 a couple of times 😯
@@BuyitFixit Wish I had watched this a year ago ...been looking at upgrading my solder station so came across your video. Glad you got it tapped down, in a previous life that was my world.
Just curious, would it have been possible to check the resistance of the Zener diode in circuit?
I'm pretty sure I measured it and it measured fine. After making the video it failed again and I ended up replacing the diode and it's been fine ever since. I think the diode was breaking down internally and heating it with the iron temporarily fixed the problem for around 3 weeks.
MP9942GJ-Z is the model for the chip
Yes I added it a while back to the video description along with the schematic 👍
I just bought on of these and Im thinking of swapping the caps for some panasonics. Do you know which I should get?
I think theres a thread on EEV blog that gives all of the different values required. Hope that helps!
Another nice repair,,thx,,.
Ps2 had those 0 "resistors"..its a fuse i guess. i used to just brigde the blown ones in PS2 fatty with a thin copper cord from a cable . had 4-5 stone dead ps2 where that was blown.. none came back and reportly worked ever after and with a new mod chip installed. i used to chip game consoles at my shop ( This was on the latest versions fat ps2 with one board...first fat ones had a 2 part board
Thanks 👍Yes I've often noticed that they are used like a fuse or even a jumper to skip over a track on a single sided board 🙂
Does it beep every time you take it out and put it back? I'm taking my old Weller (that has been going for 25 years) in and out 50 times a day, I think the beep might become annoying.
You can turn it off, but I like it on so I know it's definitely off when I replace it back in the holder.
I just got a T3A, I like my T3B. The T245 handle makes a noise, like a fast clicking noise, which I’m heavily assuming is a bad electrical connection, but I don’t know quite enough to know for sure. Before I pull the thing apart, has anyone experienced this? I don’t want to pull it apart if I don’t have to, but it should not be making any noise, right? Help!
Mine makes a buzzing noise when heating (I think it's the PWM), but I wouldn't say clicking.
@@BuyitFixit I’ve contacted both Aixun and the seller… sent them a video of it, waiting to hear back. It could be considered a buzz, I suppose… if it’s just the way it is, then so be it, but it definitely makes me a little nervous… as long as it works and doesn’t explode, I’ll be fine with it. It doesn’t see a ton of use, as it is my field soldering kit for work. I don’t have to solder all that much on the job, and it’s usually nothing too difficult or complex, so the T3A will likely do just fine :)
No reason to assume anything about the rest of the build quality based on the case: It’s a standard off-the-shelf extruded aluminum case. You see them used for everything from soldering stations to hard drive enclosures to the WeeC mini PC from TheRasteri. In other words, they didn’t design or make it. They just picked a generic enclosure and shoved it in.
Good point. I'll bear that in mind. I just assumed if they used a better quality case instead of some cheap plastic one it may have reflected on the rest of the build. We all know what they are like to save a few pennies...
Sh%ty point of this case is 1) hard to get into device. Some LID could help a lot. 2) It's aluminium, meaning you need DOUBLE care when operate with boards (to avoid short circuit). Normal plastic box with lid could be much better solution.
@@daitedve1984 IMHO: AC grounded solder stations are saver than ungrounded ones. Grounded ones have no PWR inducted voltage on minus at the dc side and also not on the solder iron.
That chip looks like a MP9943 stepdown converter package.
I can't remember the exact part off hand but I did find it out later and a schematic which I put in the video description 👍
@@BuyitFixit Ah, I see!! Thanks for the update. 👍👍👊
That IC is a MP9942GJ and that´s the EN/SYS pin.
Thanks for that 👍I think I already updated it in the video description along with a link to the schematic that someone produced.
toolstation screwdrivers i bought same sets theyre good for electronics and projects
Well spotted!!👍They are indeed!
Buck converter is a high efficiency voltage step down device.
Yes, I was just talking about them on my latest video.
For sure I would have bust that glass! was the Zenner providing a REF voltage ??....cheers.
Yes, I think the bond wires failed internally as it lasted about 3 weeks, then I ended up replacing the diode and it's been fine ever since.
Damn others are so comfortable around AC specially those scary capacitors 0_0
Also I wonder if I should still consider getting one now hmmm
Heh, capacitors aren't scary. It's the voltages inside them that can be. You can always check if they have any voltage in them, and discharge them. I like this iron, it's good. I think the tips could be slightly better quality but you can use JBC tips in it I've been told.
@@BuyitFixit I have a pinecil already so I don't need one, but gosh I'd be lying if I said I'm not in love! I don't even have the space for it lol :D
how do you discharge them? I'm an embed girl and 24v is as high as I've usually gone so that's why I'm scared
Well, in my younger days we just used to shove a screwdriver across the two terminals and get a loud bang, but I wouldn't recommend that these days. You can make a proper capacitor discharge tool out of a resistor and some heat shrink and wire. There's a few tutorials on the net. I just did a search and found one on iFixIt site called "Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool". Hope that helps 👍
@@BuyitFixit I guess I’m too paranoid. Could always wear sandals and gloves too right!
When I had that scope it was always noisy like that. I had the t3b which was doa and kept shorting the tips. I recapped it, changed components, reflowed all the joints. Still killed tips then shut off. I threw it in the closet out of frustration because they wouldn't honor the warranty and called me names. Seller phonefix on ali not China phonefix. I turned it on six months later and it's worked great ever since. I'm baffled
Hi Joey, I did an update in the video description where I replaced that diode. I think the bond wires were failing and heating it up with the iron made them connect internally for a few weeks. I also found a schematic that someone reverse engineered which may be of use if you have any more problems 👍
@Buy it Fix it sorry for rambling. I have ptsd and I feel like I just accept this kinda shit all the time. Great content by the way. I'm gonna post a workshop tour when I get my microscope and such.
Thanks Joey. Let me know and I'll check it out 👍
@@BuyitFixit cool thanks.
Looks like the pad under the zener is not correct for the size. Guessing they sourced a different diode after the PCB was designed and made.
Could well be. The symptoms returned after a few weeks so the bond wires in the diode seemed to have been breaking down internally and the heat seemed to make them reattach. I since replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since.
Awesome 😎😎😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Thanks ✌️
RT7296F or MP1475DJ used in many gpus for 5v rail.
oh i saw later the MP9942GJ-Z , bigger brother
Thanks, yes I managed to find a schematic later on that someone reverse engineered. I put it in the video description 👍
Bummer bout the big chip on the glass face plate
Yes, agree. At least the iron works now. I thought it was just plastic, hopefully others won't make the same mistake now though 👍
Great vid thx
Cheers 👍
Pronunciation: I-Shoe-In or I-shun with a slight z sound on the shoein at the start. Like zhun, one sylybol.
Depending on where you are in China.
Thanks!
Thank you too 👍
Can you do a video on the mods mentioned in eevblog
I'll have a look into that Muhammed. Thank you for the suggestion!
Great video! I do have a question that sorta a sideways topic... What is the need for such equipment. I have been engineering my own circuits, etching and milling my own circuit boards for years. I have never used anything g other than a $10 or less amazon special soldering iron. They last forever (current one is 5 years old and still going strong with the same tip). Never had any issues using it at all. I just keep the temp maxed and go to town. I'm asking why these exist because I am honestly wondering if I am doing something completely wrong... I just can't understand why these get so expensive when my $7.99 iron has been making me happy for years.
I used to use an Antex iron, but I really like this one. It heats up in around 3 seconds and automatically turns off when I place it back in the stand. I can turn it up and down. It's rated for 200W although I've not tested that.
Whats the brand on the Yellow soldering iron.
Antex, I used to use them all the time. They are good irons.
You could use some black nail polish to fix the chip in the glass.
Tell me about the T245C handle, are the metal parts aluminum or stainless steel?
Sorry I'm not 100% but I did just try scraping the metal part where the heater plugs into with my dental pick and it didn't mark it, so I think it's stainless.
@@BuyitFixit Thank you very much for your answer! You helped me a lot? Can you tell me if the wire is silicone? Soft?
@@asupsp700 yes its silicone and soft 👍
👍
I know this is an old video, but does the voltage leak impact you too much with this unit?
I use this station all the time. The only issue I've had was last week when soldering a wire on an old bell that someone brought into our local repair cafe. I forgot to unplug the ac transformer powering the bell and the iron started glowing red! Obviously it must have interfered with the temperature sensing.
@@BuyitFixit Amazing to hear, I was toying with the idea of getting one of these T3A's or a T320 to get back into electronics but read about the grounding issue on both these models causing it go overload the tip on certain grounded connections, good to hear its getting some professional use :)
T3A is a little cheaper so may go that route, You North-East by chance?
Love your vids, only found your channel today but you earned a sub, keep up the great content :)
Thanks 👍Used to live in the Northeast but I'm over in Cumbria now 🙂
What about overshoot problem and choice of manufacturer to hide it in latest firmwares?
I know this iron isn't perfect, but I'm not doing a review on it. I was doing a repair as mine stopped working. I haven't upgraded the firmware since I got it so can't comment on the latest firmwares.
I'm rather late seeing this video, but I think my first try would have been to power it using the 24V jack from the back panel. If that works then the power supply is bad, and if that doesn't then the front panel is bad, and you can take off the front face without even removing the back.
Thanks Mike, I wasn't sure how the 24v jack was wired up as I've never used it. I wasn't sure how the front face came off, but now I know (1 small chip later 😂😂😂)
Aixun p320b disassembly
You really do need to talk to national grid about your mains voltage!!!
Use alcohol when checking for heat. which ever part is bad the liquid will dry fast
Thanks for the tip👍, I've done it in the past but I've got 2 thermal cameras now 🙂
I know you soldered the multimeter test lead prong back on !...you know amazon sell them leads separately quite cheaply !? i got a couple of spare sets !
Thanks Mike. I think I originally got the set from either amazon or eBay. I really should order another set as they aren't that expensive, I just haven't got round to it.. and I kind of needed it there and then kind of thing. But thanks for letting me know!
SMT control board diagnosis: Poor solder joint quality control. This is your classic PCB assembly poor solder joint integrity failure.
Bottom line: The PCB SMT assembly solder joint integrity on the front panel control board should never have passed manufacturing quality control inspection. Even the hand soldered front panel through hole connector solder joints look cold. This is an important video because it highlights the importance of PCB assembly solder joint quality control, or solder joint integrity inspection.
Thanks for commenting, I did a small update to the video description as this stopped work about 3 weeks later. It seems the diode itself must have been breaking down internally. Possibly the bond wires, as heating it made it work again and I just assumed a dry joint. I replaced the zener diode and it's been fine ever since. Thanks for your thoughts and comment 👍
Looks like you need a flir thermal camera..
I bought a broken one, and repaired it 😂😂😂
I have a similar problem with this station. I haven't opened it yet because I'm waiting for a decision from Mr. Chinese.
When the station is turned on, you can see a green light inside the housing (probably SMPS is ok), but the display will remain black. I plugged it into my computer and it boots up normally. It follows that the problem is somewhere between the output from the 24V SMPS and the logic board. I don't want to open it because I hope the seller will send me a new station or refund my money. The station operated less than a month.
Sounds like a similar issue or it could be the connector from the smps to the main board as it was crackling on mine.
@@BuyitFixit The problem started with the tip heating up. When I took the tip out of the stand, it was heating up normally, the station is heating up the tip to maintain the temperature and just during this heating up it turned off and I heard some buzzing inside and I also thought about the bad contact of the plug from the SMPS output. Now it won't boot from SMPS and as I mentioned before there is probably a problem between the SMPS output and the logic board.
Sounds like that connection. It would draw more current during heat up..
@@BuyitFixit I know, it's a flawed device design and I'm not going to solve this problem for a Chinese guy. I paid and I demand they take care of it.
AIXUN is pronounced eye -Shun - more correctly as eye Zhun
the X has more of a ZEE sound than an S sound
Thanks👍You're the first person to answer that 🙂👍
using a soldering iron to FIX a soldering iron
😂😂😂😂yes 👍
😮
Anyone having trouble using original JBC tips on this station? I wonder if the original tips didn't damage it. I bought the station and immediately ordered tips from TME. I only tested the ones from aixun and switched to the original JBC. The station has been operating less than two weeks and has died.
In an extensive topic on evvblog, a user wrote that the station "buzzes" when heating the original JBC tips, and when using those from aixun, the "buzz" does not occur. Has anyone logged a problem like this? 🤔🤔🤔
I'm not 100% on that one. I did see the thread on eevvlog. My station died again last night but I brought it back to life again. On mine the diode next to the small psu on the front panel seems to be working intermittently so I've ordered a new 4.7v zener for it. Heating the diode up seems to bring it back to life for a while.
@@BuyitFixit Maybe this zener diode should be for more power. I'm still struggling with what to do with this station. The Chinese guy offered me a refund when i sends back the station or sends me a new station. I'm afraid that the new one may have the same problem, I'm not sure that the problem is not in the handle, I compared the tips with there are and there are small differences in the shape of the tips ... If it turns out that there the station does not want to work with JBC tips, it is useless for me, because aixun has only 3 tips in its offer for T3A.
I think the zener just provides the voltage for the enable pin on the psu chip so there shouldn't be any load on it. I've never tried any other tips except for the ones it came with.
@@BuyitFixit before buying, I watched many reviews of this station, I read the comments under them and everyone agreed that the original JBC tips work with this station without any problems. I think most of the buyers were hoping to be able to use JBC tips, because as I mentioned before, aixun only offers 3 tips for T3A, what kind of station is this that can only handle 3 tips? shit not a station in my opinion (no offense). I don't know the cause of the station's death, the cave from JBC, or the shitty performance. I have a KSGER 2.1 station and it has been working without problems for over 2 years. aixun was 3x more expensive and died after two weeks.
My video:
th-cam.com/video/oL4-pFmsd8w/w-d-xo.html¹
251 volts? Uk us 230/240
Depends. If you are close to a mains transformer it can be quite high.
I've had the electricity company out since and they dropped it down a tap on the transformer at the pole. We are very rural so it's all overhead lines and pole transformers. My nearest neighbour is 1/4 mile away..
Did you notice issues with iron getting very hot on grounded boards or voltage leaks with this station? I am thinking of buying this station, but heard these issues exist in this video: th-cam.com/video/hGK7s-9tXs4/w-d-xo.html
I've not personally, but I think there were some issues with different firmwares, but you should be able to update or downgrade if you have any problems.
Bright idea: why having all your skills you still use chineese cr@p?? You're profi, you can make this station yourself! Of course tips and handle you buy, but other parts can be easy bought and assembled (with MUCH more robust scheme). Literally you need some STM32 and power regulator. What's hard here?
True, although I'm not a professional 🙂. Time is one of the main factors. TH-cam is just a hobby currently. It doesn't pay the bills. I could have probably rolled my own as I've done similar with an incubator I made out of a wine fridge, designed the pcb and wrote the software. It was internet connected and logged all the temperature and humidity to things board.
i have missed the point !!
what's happen makes it work ??
I think the diode was breaking down internally due to thermal expansion. Heating it with the iron fixed it for a couple of weeks but I eventually replaced the diode and it's been fine ever since (I added this in the video description a while back).
thank you 😊😊
ok
Why but WHY! did you put back the glass when the test was not even done!!!!!! Sorry been debugging intermittent bug all my life long so when I see someone fully assemble back a device that is not totally tested especially with glued parts I turn green, red, black and then I burst! I am sure that you did tested it back fully before assembling it after you found the fault and you did not showed it in the video to shorten it a bit. And I do understand that. but other user that are not fully used to electronic debugging could get the wrong message here.. And the message is simple, ALWAYS test the whole thing many time before gluing back some parts that are not needed for the full function of a device!
Yes, I do sometimes give it a quick test before assembly, and sometimes remove that to shorten the video as you said. The glass actually keeps falling off since I removed it so I think the adhesive weakened the first time it was removed. The station did go faulty again about 3 weeks later (I think the diode was breaking down internally and the heat caused the bond wires inside to reconnect for a while). I ended up replacing the diode, and it's been find since. Some things you can't test without re-assembly or 90% re-assembly, such as the Milwaukee Impact driver I recently looked at. The casing actually holds the motor shaft in position, and needs pretty much all the screws back in to hold it. Thank you for your thoughts and comments.
I was left behind because, through out the hole video,I failed to notice the repaired part and what the fault was.🤔
The zener diode on the 3v3 power supply was faulty. I thought originally it was a dry joint as when I re-soldered it, it made the unit work. About 3 weeks later it died again, I think the bond wires inside the diode had failed and heating it caused it to reconnect for a while. I eventually replaced the diode and it's been fine since (I updated the video description explaining all of this, but I guess you missed it).
06:54 -- Why is it on the Right ' HAND ' side and not the Right Ear side or the Right FOOT side
The big question is why are you still at your age - associating left and right with BODY PARTS
- Your early childhood kindergarten brainwashing was very successful
As for me - I can differentiate between left-side and right-side without
using body parts associations
Hmm it could be a British thing perhaps and I guess you are from the US by your use of kindergarten. It's often said over here. There was even a song called 'pass the dutchie on the left hand side' by a British band called musical youth.
I stopped buying chinese stuff, thanks
I think that would be pretty impossible as most of the components are probably made in China...
@@BuyitFixit No, soldering station I meant :)) , Gonna make my own soldering station with genuine JBC hand piece and cartridges.
@pooyahesabi Nice 👍
Still baffles me why people buy these Chinese crap knock-offs. Not only can burn down the house, but also will not work in the near future. The poor man pays twice. Please save money and buy Hakko/JBC/etc.
Thanks. I probably will invest in some better equipment in the future!
Strange, the man paid once in this case and repaired it, his house is not burning. China makes most stuff, what's the problem?
@@bootsowen great point indeed 👍
Granted not the same model, but I bought a Chinese clone a few years ago and one day it decided to stop regulating the temperature.
I'd just gone out of the room for a few minutes, when I got back the iron's tip was glowing red and the handle was starting to melt. Thankfully I was around to switch it off, but the outcome could have been very different. Several lessons learned.
Sounds like the output mosfet could have shorted. Perhaps better stations may have two as a failsafe feature and if it overheats it would still be able to cut the power and sound some kind of alarm perhaps. I think that would be the approach I might use if designing such a device.
Boring video. I even didn't see what exactly was wrong. "some resistor"???
No, it was the zener diode that regulates the power going to the buck converter. The bond wires inside the diode must have detached and heating it with the iron must have expanded the metal and the wires connected again. I had the same issue a couple of weeks later and ended up replacing the zener. It's been fine since. I updated the video description explaining this.