Just a small suggestion. you could use the smaller blue boost convertor with the 5V tips and get more power. Its rated for 2 A soo it should work. If i am correct the Coil is the component limiting that on the board soo you could swap it for little bit thicker and get like 2,5 A. I am just learning, but i felt the need to point that out. Nice work. Looking forward to more
I was changing out 9volt batteries on smoke alarms - made mistake of putting a battery in my pocket having coins...I suddenly felt my pocket get instantly hot hot hot! I was amazed a 9volt battery could do that!
Excellent idea, a portable soldering iron that work at least 8 W like the USB that are selling from china, but this is portable and very well designed, i hope you can prototype it to sell all the electronics hobbysts around the world.
Don't need to buy a soldering iron, a piece of wire and flames are enough, it is only about comfort, so in this case the concept of spending a couple hundred thousand dollars on a machine park to diy stuff worth a couple of dollars doesn't work.
Nowadays I have alot of projects on my car(yaris 06 hatchback) & my brother's motorcycle (2 stroke something..) i find my self in a very need of a portable iron, thankfully this will give me an idea if i should buy one or make a better one 🌝👍
Those boost converters are usually rated for INPUT current, not output. So it might be possible to get 20W out of second unit if you set output voltage to 12V (which is around 4V 5A on input). I learned that after i burned few of them, for some of them even input current is rated way too high, It's possible to get it only with proper cooling.
Thank you, you are not "noob" at all, very nice build process, I am thinking about making something like that with old Vape device. but I already got small portable gas soldering, for work when I am not near power outlet..
Nice work man, you really improved on this, now using least squares methode, it works, good enough for a soldering iron, some might think, but if you want to go crazy on precision, it is a waste of time, I tell you that from own experience, I don't want to spoil you and want leave you the greatest feeling and the best for your self-esteem: success, but I give you a tip, thermocouples don't have a linear 41uV per degree Celsius, it is the voltage at one degree Celsius at perfect conditions, but even then the voltage changes, look for official charts, you will end up in arrays with a voltage per each degree. I myself got a little crazy about that, but its fun, I don't even think about getting it small at this point, this is actually the easiest part, precision and efficiency is the main part and a very hard one, so a lot of potential to kiss your own hands afterwards, lol, but the basic point is that as bigger the body that needs to be heated, as more power it needs, logically, so the solution is to reduce the body to the least absolutely necessary piece to heat, this is why JBC cartridges look like they look, this is the basic trick why they heat up so fast, but so far there are no pre-made soldering tips that use less power and have a TC inside, so I came to the point to make those myself, luckily I have a connection to someone who works with all kinds of metal working machines and can make the tips for me, wire for e-cigarettes are perfect for the heater. Get deeper into all of this, you can ask me and I give you information piece by piece. At the moment I stopped this project and moved to my linear bench psu project, I need the success from that, lol. But please, do me a favor, be honest about where you got the informations from, we are not the first and not the last who works on this, I think people who provide us information deserve atleast the props and being mentioned, you don't need to say their names, just place links in the description and say that.
I think the weight and balance of a good iron is an issue. We all usually have good phone chargers around us at any place so "portable" doesn't necessary need to have built in batteries. Basically we need something when we go to our girlfriend to repair something on the spot and we don't want to bring our good soldering station with us all the time. But even if we take it to the field where there is no electricity we could have powerbank preferably with USB type C connector to have more power. ( also a type C phone charger would be better ) So basically a soldering tip with a type C power input would be the best solution I think. That way there would be enough power and the iron would be light for more precise work or even room for balancing.
Stumbled on your channel....really sucks that the diy soldering iron didn’t get funded :( big sad. But your content is AMAZING and very helpful. Subbed.
It was really cool. Not sure about the thermocouple amplifier tho. There is no cold junction temperature compensation and fairly poor filtering (tc will pick up a lot of noise and boosts it up). I would really like you to explore the thermocouple topic in a future video because it is really interesting (also considering tc modules are quite expensive and having a diy one would be likely)
Yes, I just wrote a comment about that, 41uV isn't a constant value for each degree, but also only save at perfect conditions in a laboratory with having the other joints in an ice bath at exact 0°C, it is a different voltage for each degree, to get precision the least square method is just a waste of time, it is a little more complicated, but can be done in code very cheap, don't even need expensive op-amps.
@@Wilson84KS well, let's just say what he did is a good enough solution if you don't need very accurate readings..cheap and kinda ok. The idea of using one more thermocouple to calibrate the other is quite fine, but that is only good for the actual temperature the calibration was executed at..that's why the circuit needs some kind of thermistor to measure the cold junction temperature. Correct me if i'm wrong (I'm not an expert by any means -and also definitely not a native speaker-) but I think using the calibration he already did, along with cold junction compensation, would resault in a pretty satisfying reading. Don't take my word tho, i'm a mechanical engineer and I know very little about electronics.
@@valeriomonti8647 That's the big problem, this way cold junction compensation won't work, because you read the final value of all junctions, cold junction is the voltage that comes from the other junctions and needs to be taken as an standalone TC which is connected in series with the primary TC, so you need to calculate both and then compensate the second one with the actual temperature as close as possible to the cold junction, this can be read with a simple NTC/PTC or a digital sensor, in a tethered soldering iron this one would need more wires, while the NTC/PTC can be connected to ground and an extra wire. But yes, you are absolutely right, it is actually good enough like it is with the least squares method, my first prototype I built literally from garbage on a perfboard, even the LCD was from a Nokia 3310 where I payed 450DM ~250€ for as a schoolboy, this is actually how I began learning Arduino, just to be able to use this LCD, only the tools themselves I bought, but I was surprised how good the readings were already, the hot air was like +/- 10°C and the soldering iron up to 20°C, I think this is already absolutely acceptable, cold junction compensation plays only a bigger role in this case when the temperature of the environment changes a lot, but I built in the software the option to adjust the temperature aswell as I used trimmer-potis for the op-amp gain. But this gave me such a satisfaction, I mean it was my first serious Arduino project, that I want to make myself a soldering station that I don't need to hide even behind the most expensive ones, I also think to make a TH-cam channel to share it, also my digitally controlled linear bench top psu and some other ideas I work on, but recording videos and stuff alone costs so much time and effort, it will only be worth it when I have some projects done and working as I want.
@@Wilson84KS I should look into it a little bit more. I too have built a hot air station and a thermocouple reading module was used, I tried to make my own but I was really short in time so I just opted for the premade option. I should wipe the dust off my measuring instruments book. Nice to hear your take on it, have a beautiful day.
could you please do a video about how to test appliance grounding or testing ground faults, and also how to test earth ground in order to verify that an electrical outlet ground works properly - it's hard to find good content on this topic
What about a small boost converter to drive the tip at 6 or 7v? Since you are adding temperature control, it should heat up faster without breaking Btw, therere are e-cigarrete adaptors for these 5v tips. I've been using an ecig battery with variable wattage for 5 years and it is quite ok. No temp control, but it does work.
You could add a base that has power then you can use the extra power to bring it up to melting point then keep the melting point with the built in battery
Hi there just a quick one to say that I have a 4.5v soldering iorn it is OK for the odd job away from mains. Power I also have it running on 3 rechargeable batteries at 1.2v so I can use the USB charger built in to ceep it ready to be used
I will try to make a battery portable soldering iron with the 10W or 8W tip, an 18650 batttery, and a controller board. It will be a bit bulky, though. Also, my old soldering iron used the 8W tip, which took around 30 seconds to heat up, and with a max of 400 degrees Celsius.
Boost converters are not the best choice for something like this where you want a highish current at a higher voltage, the size of the inductor you need get to be a bit large and the circuit as a whole a bit inefficient at high boost ratios. A transformer could be used here and would not rely on storing energy in the core, so it only needs to be big enough to not saturate from magnetizing inductance. A forward converter could be made small enough I'd suspect and offer higher power and efficiency. Also use a better 18650, those old green panassonic NCR18650B 3350mAH cells can only deliver 5A, whereas the newer Sanyo NCR18650 can deliver 10A, and you can get cells that deliver up to 30A with INR and IMR chemesties. The Samsung 30Q cells are 3AH and rated 15A continuous discharge, and can be had for cheap, I got 16 for $4 a piece from IMRbatteries.
@@Wilson84KS Sorry, should have been more clear: Yes, you can make a boost converter and make it any arburary size and power rating, the problem is they are not volumentrically compact, because of the physical size of energy-storing components you need. You need a large inductor with a large core and air gap to store energy in during each cycle, and you need a large filter capacitor as you mention to smooth out the output. (although output ripple isn't the biggest concern in a design like this) the thermal time constant of the element is very low compared to the speed of the control loop in the converter. It's slow enough you can regulate the temperature with low frequency PWM around 10Hz or so. So not sure what you mean by the problem of pulsing, this video does clearly show the limitations of the boost converter.
You know that the actual voltage is 3.7V? You may be getting 4V from that battery for few seconds under the load. Maybe a boost to 5V would work better in this situation. Waiting for your prototype results
@@ELECTRONOOBS more importantly, I assume you want the iron to work not only with freshly charged cells. So use the worst-case voltage for the design, which is 3.0 or even 2.5V. That way you can actually get all the energy from the batteries.
This may be a thought that has been had before but would it be easier to modify an adjustable vape box/e-cig with 510 threads for adjustable soldering iron. I would love to see you try this.
Hello, i'm big fan of you. Every week you suprise me with different projects, and i'm just wondering how much time do you spend about every single project? That's a lot of time for designing a schematic, pcb, explaining and then to edit it. Probably you will fit with everything if you don't have a real job, i mean if youtube is your job. Am i wrong?
Why you don't use power bank as a supply and use the old soldering iron prototype? I think it should work. Moreover now there are a lot of power bank that provide QC. and you can use it rather than steping up the voltage using boost converter
3 ปีที่แล้ว
Better idea is to make sewparate handle and controller. I've been making that rith my friend with USB power delivery support, so it coud be powered by powerbank. Less handy, but there is no compromise with usability. Moreover these kind of powerbanks can charge laptop, so it's considerable to try.
You could go to nkon.nl and look for some higher power cells. Also, there's a 36mm*70mm "250w" boost converter on AliExpress meant for LEDs, which I think could prove useful for this. Has current limiting too, not only voltage regulation
Why did you not consider using a boost converter with the 10W tip? The handle might become too bulky, but the 10W tip would need a lot less amperage than the T12 and boosting to 5V should be more efficient than boosting to 20V. It would also maintain performance as the cell discharges. Without a boost circuit, the tip temperature will decline as the battery discharges and this may reduce practical runtime substantially. Will it still melt lead-free solder if the battery drops to its nominal voltage of 3.6V? That voltage is reached at half the total capacity, so it's a more reasonable test than 4V. Li-ion cells drop below 4V very quickly under even a moderate load. I really like this project, but the performance does not seem promising when compared with a USB-powered iron connected to a small power bank. Yes, this solution has an annoying cable, but it avoids having a bulky battery inside the handle. Still, your project is certainly interesting and I really enjoyed how you shared the testing and design process.
Sorry not related to this video, but, can you kindly explaine why flyback diods are not needed i your bldc esc control design? When mosfet switch on/off power so fast and energy is in the coils. Where does this energy goes? Thanks in advance
Wow, can you please recommend a way to buy cheap tips like these (soldering tips) probably t12 or similar, the problem is, they ar bloody expensive, costs about 25$ per tip, i just need a much budget friendly solution, please help me
red and black wire 3 feet long. adapter plug. Venom 5S: Continous Discharge 75C(97.5A) 18.5V. Do you want more or less? For less get a 4S OR more get a 6S. It just sits on the work table out of the way. Then go outside and have fun flying a Drone.
Such a battery should be a couple watt hours right? Around 7-8watt hours i guess. so u want to run a something more than 70W from such a battery? Do u think it’s practical? Also can such battery handle such big power outputs?
I really need your help. My brother bought a wireless keyboard. Brand - SlimStar 8000ME of Gunius.Which was combo keyboard meaning both Keyboard & Mouse work with a Single receiver and 2.4Ghz wireless connection system.Unfortunately i lost my receiver.How could i use it.Would you please show me way out or make a video solving the problem.
@@ELECTRONOOBS The raspberry pi pico is a new 32-bit arm dual core microcontroller running at 166MHz, with a pretty decent sized flash storage, which has just been released. Costs around $4. Programmes using MicroPython. About the size of a Nano or Teensy. Pretty decent specs. Should be nice competition to Arduino and stm based microcontroller boards. It's not a microprocessor product like your standard Raspberry Pi, but a microcontroller board.
I m just not gonna request something this time cause now I have been doing that for a long time(like 8 months now) from different accounts as well.....and ever after replying that u ll make it and it's a good idea but u don't....imma just enjoy the video and not expect....good content tho......and btw to make u remember who I am is the person who suggested the name 'Electronews'. My older account name was 'MrNobody'. Hope that rings a bell😂.......AND JUST TO CLARIFY THINGS OUT IF U EVEN READ THIS.....I AM NOT HATING...JUST A LITTLE DISAPPOINTED
@@ELECTRONOOBSThis is the exact spanish translation of the comment-Simplemente no voy a solicitar algo esta vez porque ahora lo he estado haciendo durante mucho tiempo (como 8 meses ahora) desde diferentes cuentas también ... y siempre después de responder que lo logrará y es una buena idea pero tú no ... yo solo disfruto el video y no espero .... buen contenido aunque ... y por cierto, para hacerte recordar quién soy, es la persona que sugirió el nombre 'Electronews'. El nombre de mi cuenta anterior era 'MrNobody'. Espero que suene una campana ....... Y SOLO PARA ACLARAR LAS COSAS SI ALGUNAS LEYES ESTO ... NO ESTOY ODIANDO ... SOLO UN POCO DECEPCIONADO
Not really. Since the T12 resistance is 8.1 ohms, at 4V there is very low current flow so even if the power consumprion is the same, since the heating element and filament inside the T12 is bigger, the tip won't even get to 200 degrees at that current flow. The 5V model, even the power is lower it will reach 400 degerees but it will stay hot more difficult.
Arduino Course (Spanish): bit.ly/3ldW6kO
Follow me on FACEBOOK for more: facebook.com/Electronoobs
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methinks we could use an e-cig and add a soldering tip.. they have high current batteries and charging circuits in already
@@johanponin1360 nice idea!
I think try to use atmega32u4 with internal adc gain can help reduce the footprint (not using opamp)
Just a small suggestion. you could use the smaller blue boost convertor with the 5V tips and get more power. Its rated for 2 A soo it should work. If i am correct the Coil is the component limiting that on the board soo you could swap it for little bit thicker and get like 2,5 A. I am just learning, but i felt the need to point that out. Nice work. Looking forward to more
@@johanponin1360 very smart johan 💡
I was changing out 9volt batteries on smoke alarms - made mistake of putting a battery in my pocket having coins...I suddenly felt my pocket get instantly hot hot hot! I was amazed a 9volt battery could do that!
Your video quality is increased 🔥now it is super
Real question. Why do you and GreatScott ALWAYS post vids at the same time? And I been watch you for more than a year or just about. And Scott too.
no reason at all, we have almost the same schedule I guess...
This happens to me too
Excellent idea, a portable soldering iron that work at least 8 W like the USB that are selling from china, but this is portable and very well designed, i hope you can prototype it to sell all the electronics hobbysts around the world.
I just buy a Soldering iron to solder my previous Soldering iron. lol🤪👍
Once my (good iron) power line got disconnected somehow, so i bout a cheep iron and fixed it 🌝👍
Same bro😂😂😂
That's how they make them...so chill bro
Don't need to buy a soldering iron, a piece of wire and flames are enough, it is only about comfort, so in this case the concept of spending a couple hundred thousand dollars on a machine park to diy stuff worth a couple of dollars doesn't work.
Have the experience 😆
I am waiting for your stm32 and esp32 series 😄
Love the smell of the burning resin❤️
Love from india ... great job sir❤️❤️❤️❤️
Big fan From india ❤️
I am also indian fan (haryana)
@@SumitSharma-do8ye from Allahabad 😀
Im from punjab,
@@alzoha1267 fan from india (patna)
Sab apni apni location darz krwa do😂
That PCB back drop is beautiful. I'd try and make one for my channel.
I love your step by step diy process. It reveals hidden insights.
Nowadays I have alot of projects on my car(yaris 06 hatchback) & my brother's motorcycle (2 stroke something..) i find my self in a very need of a portable iron, thankfully this will give me an idea if i should buy one or make a better one 🌝👍
Those boost converters are usually rated for INPUT current, not output. So it might be possible to get 20W out of second unit if you set output voltage to 12V (which is around 4V 5A on input).
I learned that after i burned few of them, for some of them even input current is rated way too high, It's possible to get it only with proper cooling.
Thank you, you are not "noob" at all, very nice build process, I am thinking about making something like that with old Vape device. but I already got small portable gas soldering, for work when I am not near power outlet..
Im a fan of your content. Please make a DIY JBC NANO Soldering station for C115 Cartridges.
As awalays Love from Bangladesh 😘😘
Best channel for Electronics 👌🙏
Nice work man, you really improved on this, now using least squares methode, it works, good enough for a soldering iron, some might think, but if you want to go crazy on precision, it is a waste of time, I tell you that from own experience, I don't want to spoil you and want leave you the greatest feeling and the best for your self-esteem: success, but I give you a tip, thermocouples don't have a linear 41uV per degree Celsius, it is the voltage at one degree Celsius at perfect conditions, but even then the voltage changes, look for official charts, you will end up in arrays with a voltage per each degree. I myself got a little crazy about that, but its fun, I don't even think about getting it small at this point, this is actually the easiest part, precision and efficiency is the main part and a very hard one, so a lot of potential to kiss your own hands afterwards, lol, but the basic point is that as bigger the body that needs to be heated, as more power it needs, logically, so the solution is to reduce the body to the least absolutely necessary piece to heat, this is why JBC cartridges look like they look, this is the basic trick why they heat up so fast, but so far there are no pre-made soldering tips that use less power and have a TC inside, so I came to the point to make those myself, luckily I have a connection to someone who works with all kinds of metal working machines and can make the tips for me, wire for e-cigarettes are perfect for the heater. Get deeper into all of this, you can ask me and I give you information piece by piece. At the moment I stopped this project and moved to my linear bench psu project, I need the success from that, lol.
But please, do me a favor, be honest about where you got the informations from, we are not the first and not the last who works on this, I think people who provide us information deserve atleast the props and being mentioned, you don't need to say their names, just place links in the description and say that.
Thank you for all these tips!
An avid fan of your work......I want start building my first project but couldn't figure out where to begin...hehehehhe
I think the weight and balance of a good iron is an issue. We all usually have good phone chargers around us at any place so "portable" doesn't necessary need to have built in batteries. Basically we need something when we go to our girlfriend to repair something on the spot and we don't want to bring our good soldering station with us all the time. But even if we take it to the field where there is no electricity we could have powerbank preferably with USB type C connector to have more power. ( also a type C phone charger would be better ) So basically a soldering tip with a type C power input would be the best solution I think. That way there would be enough power and the iron would be light for more precise work or even room for balancing.
Yes keep moving on this one buddy!! Great idea and video.
Stumbled on your channel....really sucks that the diy soldering iron didn’t get funded :( big sad. But your content is AMAZING and very helpful. Subbed.
Nice video! It really shows the workflow of the project
❤️from india
who cares where you're from? lol
It's love from india see the heart
@@samisdamn4062 thanks❤️
@@vvinoth514 Welcome
I am also from India
I'm also Indian
I liked watching your process too! Thanks for sharing!
Hey...will u remember me when u get famous???
btw imma a long time subscriber
Tanks alot guys for your educated 😊
What's up my friends welcome back 😂 NEVER MISS IT in your videos BTW YOUR VIDEOS ARE QUITE A LOT EDUCATIONAL 👍👍.
:))) Thank you!
interesting topic...Battery powered soldering irons that do the job well...are hard to find.
I just got the one From Lidl and works fine for what i do =))
It was really cool. Not sure about the thermocouple amplifier tho. There is no cold junction temperature compensation and fairly poor filtering (tc will pick up a lot of noise and boosts it up). I would really like you to explore the thermocouple topic in a future video because it is really interesting (also considering tc modules are quite expensive and having a diy one would be likely)
Yes, I just wrote a comment about that, 41uV isn't a constant value for each degree, but also only save at perfect conditions in a laboratory with having the other joints in an ice bath at exact 0°C, it is a different voltage for each degree, to get precision the least square method is just a waste of time, it is a little more complicated, but can be done in code very cheap, don't even need expensive op-amps.
By joints I mean junctions, the cold junctions.
@@Wilson84KS well, let's just say what he did is a good enough solution if you don't need very accurate readings..cheap and kinda ok. The idea of using one more thermocouple to calibrate the other is quite fine, but that is only good for the actual temperature the calibration was executed at..that's why the circuit needs some kind of thermistor to measure the cold junction temperature. Correct me if i'm wrong (I'm not an expert by any means -and also definitely not a native speaker-) but I think using the calibration he already did, along with cold junction compensation, would resault in a pretty satisfying reading. Don't take my word tho, i'm a mechanical engineer and I know very little about electronics.
@@valeriomonti8647 That's the big problem, this way cold junction compensation won't work, because you read the final value of all junctions, cold junction is the voltage that comes from the other junctions and needs to be taken as an standalone TC which is connected in series with the primary TC, so you need to calculate both and then compensate the second one with the actual temperature as close as possible to the cold junction, this can be read with a simple NTC/PTC or a digital sensor, in a tethered soldering iron this one would need more wires, while the NTC/PTC can be connected to ground and an extra wire.
But yes, you are absolutely right, it is actually good enough like it is with the least squares method, my first prototype I built literally from garbage on a perfboard, even the LCD was from a Nokia 3310 where I payed 450DM ~250€ for as a schoolboy, this is actually how I began learning Arduino, just to be able to use this LCD, only the tools themselves I bought, but I was surprised how good the readings were already, the hot air was like +/- 10°C and the soldering iron up to 20°C, I think this is already absolutely acceptable, cold junction compensation plays only a bigger role in this case when the temperature of the environment changes a lot, but I built in the software the option to adjust the temperature aswell as I used trimmer-potis for the op-amp gain. But this gave me such a satisfaction, I mean it was my first serious Arduino project, that I want to make myself a soldering station that I don't need to hide even behind the most expensive ones, I also think to make a TH-cam channel to share it, also my digitally controlled linear bench top psu and some other ideas I work on, but recording videos and stuff alone costs so much time and effort, it will only be worth it when I have some projects done and working as I want.
@@Wilson84KS I should look into it a little bit more. I too have built a hot air station and a thermocouple reading module was used, I tried to make my own but I was really short in time so I just opted for the premade option. I should wipe the dust off my measuring instruments book. Nice to hear your take on it, have a beautiful day.
could you please do a video about how to test appliance grounding or testing ground faults, and also how to test earth ground in order to verify that an electrical outlet ground works properly - it's hard to find good content on this topic
From Pakistan,
Please make a DIY Arduino robot like OTTO
Nice video
What about a small boost converter to drive the tip at 6 or 7v? Since you are adding temperature control, it should heat up faster without breaking
Btw, therere are e-cigarrete adaptors for these 5v tips. I've been using an ecig battery with variable wattage for 5 years and it is quite ok. No temp control, but it does work.
You could add a base that has power then you can use the extra power to bring it up to melting point then keep the melting point with the built in battery
Hi there just a quick one to say that I have a 4.5v soldering iorn it is OK for the odd job away from mains. Power I also have it running on 3 rechargeable batteries at 1.2v so I can use the USB charger built in to ceep it ready to be used
Fantastic video
Nice work!
Great video 👍🏻
You can also use button cells to get more volatge(connecting in series) & make it compact
They usually have a high internal resistor, so can't provide a lot of current.
And are not rechargeable.
I will try to make a battery portable soldering iron with the 10W or 8W tip, an 18650 batttery, and a controller board. It will be a bit bulky, though. Also, my old soldering iron used the 8W tip, which took around 30 seconds to heat up, and with a max of 400 degrees Celsius.
Try to make a soldering gun you need just a Little circuit to convert ac to dc for the transformer and that's it
Or you can try to make your own tip
🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡Hello, I am following you from Iran🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡
Really very useful!!!
I have a question, how do you get sponsored by jlcpcb, and how the sponsorship works (payments, contract ecc...)? Thanks! 👍
Use a power bank pcb with a output capability of 5V & 2.1A and that will be the best method.
How about some small but high current batteries or supercaps (12-24V) and a stand with larger batteries to automatically charge the iron back up?
Boost converters are not the best choice for something like this where you want a highish current at a higher voltage, the size of the inductor you need get to be a bit large and the circuit as a whole a bit inefficient at high boost ratios. A transformer could be used here and would not rely on storing energy in the core, so it only needs to be big enough to not saturate from magnetizing inductance. A forward converter could be made small enough I'd suspect and offer higher power and efficiency.
Also use a better 18650, those old green panassonic NCR18650B 3350mAH cells can only deliver 5A, whereas the newer Sanyo NCR18650 can deliver 10A, and you can get cells that deliver up to 30A with INR and IMR chemesties. The Samsung 30Q cells are 3AH and rated 15A continuous discharge, and can be had for cheap, I got 16 for $4 a piece from IMRbatteries.
Boost-converters can provide the necessary power, the bigger problem is that they are pulsing while the control is also pulsing.
@@Wilson84KS Sorry, should have been more clear: Yes, you can make a boost converter and make it any arburary size and power rating, the problem is they are not volumentrically compact, because of the physical size of energy-storing components you need. You need a large inductor with a large core and air gap to store energy in during each cycle, and you need a large filter capacitor as you mention to smooth out the output. (although output ripple isn't the biggest concern in a design like this)
the thermal time constant of the element is very low compared to the speed of the control loop in the converter. It's slow enough you can regulate the temperature with low frequency PWM around 10Hz or so. So not sure what you mean by the problem of pulsing, this video does clearly show the limitations of the boost converter.
You know that the actual voltage is 3.7V? You may be getting 4V from that battery for few seconds under the load. Maybe a boost to 5V would work better in this situation. Waiting for your prototype results
3.7 is nominal. 4.2 is fully charges and yes, I'm aware of that. I might use two batteries... Is a bit tricky but your suggestions are helping me...
@@ELECTRONOOBS more importantly, I assume you want the iron to work not only with freshly charged cells. So use the worst-case voltage for the design, which is 3.0 or even 2.5V. That way you can actually get all the energy from the batteries.
Really informative thanks...
great job
This may be a thought that has been had before but would it be easier to modify an adjustable vape box/e-cig with 510 threads for adjustable soldering iron. I would love to see you try this.
That is an interesting idea!
Are you using clips for fuses to hold the iron tip? That may be what is restricting your current flow.
Interesting video !
Hello, i'm big fan of you. Every week you suprise me with different projects, and i'm just wondering how much time do you spend about every single project? That's a lot of time for designing a schematic, pcb, explaining and then to edit it. Probably you will fit with everything if you don't have a real job, i mean if youtube is your job. Am i wrong?
Hi. Yes, I'm full time youtuber and depends on the project. Sometimes a week, sometimes ai work more than a month at a project...
great video
nice work
Excellent 👍🏻
for use with tips higher voltage and wattage. desine a power supply
Why you don't use power bank as a supply and use the old soldering iron prototype? I think it should work. Moreover now there are a lot of power bank that provide QC. and you can use it rather than steping up the voltage using boost converter
Better idea is to make sewparate handle and controller. I've been making that rith my friend with USB power delivery support, so it coud be powered by powerbank. Less handy, but there is no compromise with usability. Moreover these kind of powerbanks can charge laptop, so it's considerable to try.
VERY NICE.
You could go to nkon.nl and look for some higher power cells. Also, there's a 36mm*70mm "250w" boost converter on AliExpress meant for LEDs, which I think could prove useful for this. Has current limiting too, not only voltage regulation
Loved it
That's awesome 👍
Why did you not consider using a boost converter with the 10W tip? The handle might become too bulky, but the 10W tip would need a lot less amperage than the T12 and boosting to 5V should be more efficient than boosting to 20V. It would also maintain performance as the cell discharges.
Without a boost circuit, the tip temperature will decline as the battery discharges and this may reduce practical runtime substantially. Will it still melt lead-free solder if the battery drops to its nominal voltage of 3.6V? That voltage is reached at half the total capacity, so it's a more reasonable test than 4V. Li-ion cells drop below 4V very quickly under even a moderate load.
I really like this project, but the performance does not seem promising when compared with a USB-powered iron connected to a small power bank. Yes, this solution has an annoying cable, but it avoids having a bulky battery inside the handle. Still, your project is certainly interesting and I really enjoyed how you shared the testing and design process.
What we need is a pistol grip version of the iron with the batteries in the handle.
Could you use the boost converter with the 5V version?
Sorry not related to this video, but, can you kindly explaine why flyback diods are not needed i your bldc esc control design? When mosfet switch on/off power so fast and energy is in the coils. Where does this energy goes? Thanks in advance
Wow, can you please recommend a way to buy cheap tips like these (soldering tips) probably t12 or similar, the problem is, they ar bloody expensive, costs about 25$ per tip, i just need a much budget friendly solution, please help me
There are cheap ones on AliExpress, also on Ebay you can find them.
red and black wire 3 feet long. adapter plug. Venom 5S: Continous Discharge 75C(97.5A) 18.5V. Do you want more or less? For less get a 4S OR more get a 6S. It just sits on the work table out of the way. Then go outside and have fun flying a Drone.
Amazing 👍
What are you using to hold the tip on the pcb?
Very cool 👍🖖
Please review the new raspberry Pi pico please
Such a battery should be a couple watt hours right? Around 7-8watt hours i guess. so u want to run a something more than 70W from such a battery? Do u think it’s practical? Also can such battery handle such big power outputs?
Do you need to use polyester capacitor?
Hi bro i hava an doubt can we calculate volts and amps using internal resistance of appliance
Amazing 😍
Can that charging circuit really output 7W continuously from one cell?
Ai putea face și un circuit de variație a temperaturi.
I really need your help.
My brother bought a wireless keyboard. Brand - SlimStar 8000ME of Gunius.Which was combo keyboard meaning both Keyboard & Mouse work with a Single receiver and 2.4Ghz wireless connection system.Unfortunately i lost my receiver.How could i use it.Would you please show me way out or make a video solving the problem.
One more subscriber here
Plz make a video on raspberry pi pico
Yes i need that too.
Sorry, I don't use the pi that much so I don't know much about it!
@@ELECTRONOOBS The raspberry pi pico is a new 32-bit arm dual core microcontroller running at 166MHz, with a pretty decent sized flash storage, which has just been released. Costs around $4. Programmes using MicroPython. About the size of a Nano or Teensy. Pretty decent specs. Should be nice competition to Arduino and stm based microcontroller boards.
It's not a microprocessor product like your standard Raspberry Pi, but a microcontroller board.
@@ELECTRONOOBS this microcontroller have more pin as compare to arduino it is first microcontroller from rpi instead of microprocessor
I m just not gonna request something this time cause now I have been doing that for a long time(like 8 months now) from different accounts as well.....and ever after replying that u ll make it and it's a good idea but u don't....imma just enjoy the video and not expect....good content tho......and btw to make u remember who I am is the person who suggested the name 'Electronews'. My older account name was 'MrNobody'. Hope that rings a bell😂.......AND JUST TO CLARIFY THINGS OUT IF U EVEN READ THIS.....I AM NOT HATING...JUST A LITTLE DISAPPOINTED
Thanks for that sugestion! Is a better name that way!
@@ELECTRONOOBS haha the purpose of that wasn't to make myself big...it was just a reference.....no offence
@@anonymoususer900 I don't really get what you are talking about. Sowy
@@ELECTRONOOBS lol no problem 😂😂
@@ELECTRONOOBSThis is the exact spanish translation of the comment-Simplemente no voy a solicitar algo esta vez porque ahora lo he estado haciendo durante mucho tiempo (como 8 meses ahora) desde diferentes cuentas también ... y siempre después de responder que lo logrará y es una buena idea pero tú no ... yo solo disfruto el video y no espero .... buen contenido aunque ... y por cierto, para hacerte recordar quién soy, es la persona que sugirió el nombre 'Electronews'. El nombre de mi cuenta anterior era 'MrNobody'. Espero que suene una campana ....... Y SOLO PARA ACLARAR LAS COSAS SI ALGUNAS LEYES ESTO ... NO ESTOY ODIANDO ... SOLO UN POCO DECEPCIONADO
nice use of the green screen
lit🔥🔥🔥🔥
Awesome
First and that awesome project.....
7:00 isn't the comparison a bs, if you want less power you could always limit it and use the T12 tip at a lower power
Not really. Since the T12 resistance is 8.1 ohms, at 4V there is very low current flow so even if the power consumprion is the same, since the heating element and filament inside the T12 is bigger, the tip won't even get to 200 degrees at that current flow. The 5V model, even the power is lower it will reach 400 degerees but it will stay hot more difficult.
Make a DIY Arduino Robot
Great
Im not sure about the word (prototype)🌝 i kinda like the v3 iron more than this one
Donde estás comprando las baterías 18650? Quiero unas cuantas y estoy buscando un sitio donde comprarlas a buen precio y que sean de fiar.
las compré de AliExpress. Para fiarte más leete las reviews del producto, la gente comenta si son buenas o no
I have bought a commercial version of this from lidl for 15 euro
Why heat the tip with a resistor? Build an induction circuit to heat it. Much much more efficient.
Most required
On point 👉
Sir please make a discord server
always love from Pakistan
You need a soldering iron to make a soldering iron.
No, some wire and fire will do aswell.
@@Wilson84KS hahahha