I've just revisited this video after an unfortunate incident involving this very trim piece on my xk8 and a bag strap last weekend. Absolutely bl**dy brilliant John. Can't wait to get 'un-cracking'. Hopeful of an invisible repair at the end. This is why TTG is the best channel on T 'Tube 👏👍
Thanks Gerard. I genuinely enjoy a bit of plastic repair. I find it very satisfying and therapeutic. (or it could be the fumes😁) Those hinge covers are SO prone to breakage.
i picked up a plastic stapler from amazon.. had already bought a plastic welder, but found a plain old soldering iron works better, but the staples and the melting, works like magic.
Forty years in the autobody business and this by far is the best and simplest way to repair, mind you I invested in all types of plastic repair kits, tools and welders over my career, Thanks
Thanks for a thorough video. To fill the cracks, you can also use a framers putty which comes in many colors. I used the putty to fill the cracks in the frames when I worked for a picture framing company and you couldn't tell where the corners met.
@@ToTheGarage Also after using the putty and before the putty dries. Put a small drop of hot glue onto the part of the plastic that is in good shape (apply wd40 first) and then remove the glue so that the texture of the plastic (like leather) stays on the hot glue and then put that glue in the putty while it's drying and then paint the entire piece in the desired color. That way you will not see the plastic weld and it will have the same texture
Nice technique! I used to melt ABS edge banding in acetone to make an ABS glue. It works way better than any glue. It melts the surrounding material and fill the gaps. You can make some reinforcements with it too.
@@ToTheGarage Plumber's ABS cement works great and available at the hardware store. It's basically a slurry of ABS and acetone. Works well to adhere the mesh, and I've used it sucessfully many times with fibreglass cloth as well.
Nice, I have used the existing plastic melt method, But then, I need to back up that repair and add material. I use fiberglass resin, I do have to roughen up where it will go. applying to a slick surface, it could peel off. By roughening the surface, it gives the resin something to grip onto. I use a Dremel tool and a rough grinding stone to break the gloss smoothness of the area to be repaired. Just a surface roughening, no need to over do it. Mix the resin, have some strips of fiberglass cloth ready. Pour some in, and lay down a strip on the repaired area. The resin will flow into the cloth. Resin is pretty hard and reinforces any repair. The melting is fine, but you can never get the thickness as a factory piece. One could add plastic to the repair, just like is done with metal welding. Thanks for the video, excellent!
Really like the melting aluminum auto body mesh into the ABS plastic technique. Provides a lot of strength to the repair. Using this technique to repair cracks in our Apache camping trailer. Drilling a 1/8" hole to terminate the crack to prevent it from spreading/ Smoothing & finishing off with a coat of MEK.
An extension cord with a old fashioned light dimmer wired to an outlet can control the heat on any simple soldering iron, a tip from 43 years ago, one of these times I'll try it. I would think about cutting the trip hazard shorter &/or adding some reinforcement ribs, nice of them to mold ABS in.
Thanks John for your secrets of the XK8 videos. I have just fixed my fog lamp bracket following your plastic welding tips. It worked great. I melted copper s-links into each side. Copper isn't ideal but it seems strong enough. I've got a picture but you can't see that much. Thanks John.
Hi John, Nicely done. Perfectly adequate for the application. The real secret of course , is not to let the grandchildren in the back in the first place😯
Excellent tip especially the mesh. Just repaired my wife’s hair drier detachable nozzle. Happy wife, happy 😊 husband, Unhappy Amazon whose lost a sale.
Amazing job! 👏 your craftsmanship is next level on the factory pieces. Keep up the great work. We need more people out there with your skill set and knowledge. I'm in the states, thanks for the video.
Nice work there John! Not perfect, but as close as it can get with the material and tools you used. Thank you for your time and willingness to help us Jaguar owners!
I knew about the cable tie, I have seen people use staple clips to join either side. I like your mesh work, I fell on my bike and damaged the two panniers and I used cable tie to cross-hatch the damage, it was a mess internally, but it worked just fine. The mesh idea would have been great. Also, I have seen videos where they use superglue with baking soda.
Superglue can work really well, but always be aware that it will tend to leave a white discolouration or bloom on your trim as it drys. Its the gas coming off the glue and then settling on the surface. Its VERY difficult to remove or totally avoid so best reserved for non cosmetic repairs or where you want to paint it after..
There is a hand held extruder for 3d printer filament. It is used for free form crafts. Its has a rechargeable battery. 3d filament comes in many colours and even in rubbery types. I have never used the hand held one but it sounds useful for what you are doing. I Also use stainless mesh like you do. I get it from fry pan spatter guards at the cheap shop.
thank you for repairing and not replacing! we all need to start doing this at the macro level, if governments would subsidize repairs, we could provide more jobs and drastically reduce our landfills
Couldn't agree more. If We could still buy Brake shoe linings in the Uk, I would be re lining brake drum shoes rather than replacing all the Very robust metal supports every time.
Addressed immediately without the glueing attempt and it would have looked much better on the visible side. I use window screen and actually tried steel wool which helps on curved surfaces. A better flatter tip for the iron would help and something like a razor blade to hold the mesh down as the plastic cools and hardens is indispensable. I taught myself with the harbor freight kit and this type of repair has a sharp learning curve- don't be afraid to experiment and do it outside and not in the living room like I did the first time
I would typically use the soldering iron with a cut off nail (to save my tinned bit). Melt a little down the crack. This is ABS plastic, so find some more scrap ABS plastic, cut or shave into very small pieces, soak in Acetone. Draw the plastic solution up with a syringe. Apply the liquid plastic to the crack and allow it to set overnight. It's also useful as glue for the broken parts. Use small clips to hold it steady while it cures. This is faster and secure for plastic mending. It's not aluminium, it's aluminum.
Hi Susan. Top tip re the Acetone slurry. Very effective. A great follow up to the instant hold achieved via the mechanical welding. Re Aluminium I am English. It is spelt and pronounced the same way in all english speaking nations except America Where Websters Dictionary chose to include an alternate spelling, to closer replicate the common American pronunciation of the Element discovered by Sir Humphrey Davey. They later dropped the original Spelling altogether. All non-American dictionaries list it as Aluminium. This is also how it appears on the periodic table used everywhere except America. Every english speaker understands what Americans are saying when pronouncing Aluminium, and Jaguar. It is just a localisation of the language and the world is a richer place for it. Thanks for watching and for the great comment John
Yes I have seen them. They do look very effective. However have never felt that the frequency with which I would need to use it justified getting a specific tool. Plus I find re using scrap wire and mesh more satisfying
Oh wow , your a little bit late for me , my friend . I'm already converted . I learned plastic welding nearly 2 years ago , in an effort to repair the front bumper on my Hymer motorhome . The repair was difficult , as the bumper was hiding more damage than could be seen , and only became visible , with it removed . It even involved removing some of the indicator recessed plastic , which was beyond savage , and replacing with new . It took a total of three days to put right , but was totally successful , with much of the cost for the welder itself . It cost far less than the replacement cost of a new bumper which retails around 1300 quid . My costs were way less than a quarter . I've since repaired brackets and clips that are impossible to source . Early last year , buoyed with this success , i began to convert my dashboard , in the same vehicle to double din . Quite a nerve racking experience , as should it go wrong , sourcing a replacement would have been extremely difficult . The motorhome is 22 years old , and dashboard trim seldom available . The result is staggering , even if i do say so myself . Right now the panel is finished in a brown basecoat , awaiting final finishing . As i can't hope to replicate the original finish , i've decided to apply a walnut burr finish , using a different technique . Hydro-dipping , i'm busy studying that process now . I have since been asked where i sourced the panel , as they've never seen one before . They only believe it's a one off , when i show them the back . As you say , it's not quite perfection .
Easy Peasy Lemon Squeeze ! Nice job there John. Unfortunately these plastics are the negative from the FORD era Jags, and due the fact that some of them were recycled, hence the resilience through time and heat exposure isn't the same with the genuine materials used, like the Gear shift knob on the "J" gate. Excellent detailed job John. Cheers.
Removing oils that where sprayed on or put there by your fingers using rubbing alcohol is a necessary step so I don't find it odd at all. Even tho I've done my fair share of these tasks I always check for learning anything new. Cheers from Wisconsin.
Get another small piece of abs cut to cover the seam on the back side. Brush the seam and as far past you can as well as the new piece with MEK. It is a solvent that will chemically bond the two pieces plus the support piece together as one. Welding is great you can buy specific rods for different types of plastics.
@@ToTheGarage i have neen doing it for decades but im hating the project im on now. Got an old garage door opener that some dumbarse hit with a 2x4 i think broke the big outer case on the front where the bulb and lens go. But the metalkic tape held it together until i went to change the bulb. I touched the lens and it fell and nailed me in tje face. Broken in two. Then i went to take the bulb out and the majority of the front fell out in pieces. Still that was ok ish. I removed it to see if i could fix. It only to find the controll board is mounted to a seperate piece of plastic abs/pc . it was in tiny pieces. The unit worked perfectly but i started having to adjust the force it opened and closed with. After taking the big case off i saw why the board was shorting against the frame when it would jiggle while running. I had most put together when the lady that own the house flew by with a 50 lb purse and nailed both pieces knocked them 5' into a wheelbarrow rail then onto two wood planers beliw on paint buckets bursting them further then to the concrete floor. Cant get the pieces any more. Prob spent 200 on glue epoxy rods valium and blood pressure neds trying to save this. Ive got a new one in the box out there but that would be admitting defeat.
Very well done. Great video. Perhaps there would be a spray paint color close enough to match? There are so many rattle can colors available now. That may be a good option.
I use the sun, with a powerful magnifying glass, to melt across the crack, and then spread the molten plastic across with a stainless (clean) knife blade. This (temporarily) holds both broken pieces together. If I am welding ABS, I find a piece of similar thickness, and size of ABS. I place this additional (shaped) piece directly over the crack, ensuring all areas to be welded, are cleaned and slightly roughened with some glasspaper. Then, I heat a broad flat knife until it 'blues'. I raise this additional piece of ABS, and then (with a heated knife) you place the additional repair piece on top of the knife, whilst also pressing the underside of the knife against the parent ABS. The whole lot 'fuses' together, as you slowly drag the heated knife out and press down on top. The addition of added ABS really strengthens the potentially weak area. The edges are then 'feathered-in, with the same hot knife. This has always worked for me. Greetings from Australia.
Excellent intel Peter. Love the heated knife idea. However using the sun and a magnifying glass is probably more appropriate on your island than on mine😔 🤣🤣
I realize this is an older video, but you could use a heat gun or torch to heat up the wire and then push it into the plastic. Quicker and would do the repair much better. Also, swap out the soldering iron tip for a flat circular type to heat the material. Again, much easier and smoother as well. Just some ideas...
Certainly agree its easier with a flat tipped iron Gary. 👍 You could heat the wire and then apply it to get it started but it will chill down as soon as it starts to penetrate the plastic. Re heating it husing a torch or heatgun would be asking molten trim😁. So you would probably need to finish off with a soldering gun anyway. You can buy guns that electrically heat wire staples and then shoot them into the plastic. These are great for thicker plastics and where you dont mind a little surface damage on the other side.
To the garage: thank you very kindly John! This is fascinating enough to watch that I’ve been sitting here with my coat on starting to sweat, but I couldn’t put down the video and leave the house until I saw how your project turned out. Lol
Betting that today you use UV glue...it will fill the gaps on each side but work the back side first. Sand well so the glue can bond well. Or but ABS welding rods for the back and UV glue for the parts that show. It is clear mostly.
Can't see that anyone else has suggested it.... 3d printer filement (ABS or PLA) can be used like solder to fill and bridge gaps. I think sample lengths can be found on ebay.
If you have probs with welding or chemical bonding try Q bond. Its freaking amazing. You can seam plastics together. Mold ,repair, fill missing pueces and do the same with netals and most any material.
I'm thinking that if you either sprayed or brushed on the property plastic paint that it would probably fill in some of the crack if you found the right color too
The wire method is imo far better and stronger. I have just bought a 1999 XK 8 with a cracked cover as per video or if i can find a cheap weller soldering gun it will make the job really easy. It will get the treatment later when some other issues have been fixed. Like the vids re the XK 8's keep them comming. Any idea where the aux alarm sounder is situated ? Think mine is caput and causing a battery drain.
I can tell you that the plastic on jaguars is brittle as hell. I had at least 10 places where the plastic broke. The older it got the worse the plastic was as well. It was about 8 yrs old when I got rid of it. The door panels were loose and several other things inside and under hood were broken. It started with the brake line that had a plastic valve. It just made it hard to press brake it only leaked air.
John, Very interesting. I wonder whether this technique could be used to repair the undertray of my 2001 XKR. If not, do you have any tips for dealing with this common problem caused by grounding on potholes and kerbs?
Hi John Pretty sure you could apply all of this to your undergrad. Also has the advantage of being out of most peoples sight. It will give you a good item to practice on. Its really quite fun!. But choose somewhere well ventilated to do it.
Hi John,, Thank You for the great video, some goog ideas in there for repairing ABS pastic. I am just about to plunge headlong into the repair of an ABS dinghy. I got dinghy very cheaply as it has a few cracks in the hull !! ABS has a reputation as being very difficultult to repair, but watching your video has given me some confidence in doing it myself. I intend to make a video about the whole project, so I will let you know how it goes.
Outline the crack with painters tape. Use baking soda and super glue. Baking soda gets into the cracks take a credit card smooth it flush then you dribble water like viscosity superglue in an it hardens to a rock. Then you sand and paint.
I see that the plastic is ABS so I'm wondering if you just couldn't use plumbing solvents your plumbing glue systems with the cleaner and the actual glue to connect weld this plastic
13:10 It may work more easily if you were to place the aluminum mesh in a toaster oven for a few minutes, to preheat..Or heat it with a cigarette lighter.
microcracks in ABS are better fixed using solvent welding; for complete broken parts, ABS resin (like pipe glue) is better; welding is good for plastics that do not dissolve in solvent - like PP, PA, HDPE, or Nylon
I am going to be 3d printing some ABS plastic but what I am making will be to big for the print bed so breaking it up into several prints will melting a couple of nails into the plastic to hold it work or if it is possible can I melt some ribbon style magnets so that it can then just be held in place onto where it will live with the magnets
Just a tip when going for structural integrity when welding plastic avoid using filler that is colored when possible and the worst color is red...speaking from working multiple years at a company building plastic welders for commercial applications such as welding battery tops on, center consols and appliance parts among many things
A better way to do a long seem like that is to use some small wire screen in strips in an axle flat tip for plastic welding that attaches to the soldering iron much better repair
I simply heat the wire first on my cigarette lighter and then place it in there with the help of Nozepliers. It's way more easy than doing with soldering iron.
13:20 ... heat the metal don't the plastic ... bla...bla.. bla.. To avoid not heating the plastic I think it is best if you use a small piece of thin aluminium sheet that placed on the top side of metal while continue soldering 🇮🇩👍😀🤜🤛🙏
Hi Jose. Its typically too brittle a joint for this application. But super glue can get you out of trouble on occasion. Just be careful as it tends leave a white bloom all over the workpiece if used in a quantity larger than a few drops
John, My XK8 has both its outer hinge covers cracked with the upper part missing. Otherwise I would repair them. Do you have any idea how I can get two (rt and lt) outside covers?? I simply can't find any here in Canada. My plan is to make molds and reproduce them in fiberglass or carbon fiber and can return the originals completely undamaged, Any thoughts????
You just changed my life! I fixed a nasty crack on the corner of my camper!!!! Thank you a million times over!
Glad to help
Acetone is the best solution for ABS. Nice video ❤
I've just revisited this video after an unfortunate incident involving this very trim piece on my xk8 and a bag strap last weekend. Absolutely bl**dy brilliant John. Can't wait to get 'un-cracking'. Hopeful of an invisible repair at the end. This is why TTG is the best channel on T 'Tube 👏👍
Thanks Gerard. I genuinely enjoy a bit of plastic repair. I find it very satisfying and therapeutic. (or it could be the fumes😁) Those hinge covers are SO prone to breakage.
i picked up a plastic stapler from amazon.. had already bought a plastic welder, but found a plain old soldering iron works better, but the staples and the melting, works like magic.
Forty years in the autobody business and this by far is the best and simplest way to repair, mind you I invested in all types of plastic repair kits, tools and welders over my career, Thanks
Thanks Charles. Gad you like it
Thanks for a thorough video. To fill the cracks, you can also use a framers putty which comes in many colors. I used the putty to fill the cracks in the frames when I worked for a picture framing company and you couldn't tell where the corners met.
Never used framers putty🤔
@@ToTheGarage Also after using the putty and before the putty dries. Put a small drop of hot glue onto the part of the plastic that is in good shape (apply wd40 first) and then remove the glue so that the texture of the plastic (like leather) stays on the hot glue and then put that glue in the putty while it's drying and then paint the entire piece in the desired color. That way you will not see the plastic weld and it will have the same texture
Very creative adding metal wire or metal mesh. And the Polyfilla is brilliant.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice technique! I used to melt ABS edge banding in acetone to make an ABS glue. It works way better than any glue. It melts the surrounding material and fill the gaps. You can make some reinforcements with it too.
Tibor Huszár I love the sound of that ABS glue. I will try that out👍
@@ToTheGarage Plumber's ABS cement works great and available at the hardware store. It's basically a slurry of ABS and acetone. Works well to adhere the mesh, and I've used it sucessfully many times with fibreglass cloth as well.
Never realised this sort of repair is that straightforward! Thanks.
Nice, I have used the existing plastic melt method, But then, I need to back up that repair and add material. I use fiberglass resin, I do have to roughen up where it will go. applying to a slick surface, it could peel off. By roughening the surface, it gives the resin something to grip onto.
I use a Dremel tool and a rough grinding stone to break the gloss smoothness of the area to be repaired. Just a surface roughening, no need to over do it.
Mix the resin, have some strips of fiberglass cloth ready. Pour some in, and lay down a strip on the repaired area. The resin will flow into the cloth. Resin is pretty hard and reinforces any repair.
The melting is fine, but you can never get the thickness as a factory piece.
One could add plastic to the repair, just like is done with metal welding.
Thanks for the video, excellent!
Really like the melting aluminum auto body mesh into the ABS plastic technique. Provides a lot of strength to the repair. Using this technique to repair cracks in our Apache camping trailer. Drilling a 1/8" hole to terminate the crack to prevent it from spreading/ Smoothing & finishing off with a coat of MEK.
The 1/8th hole is the mark of. a professional Murray👍👍. Good tip
An extension cord with a old fashioned light dimmer wired to an outlet can control the heat on any simple soldering iron, a tip from 43 years ago, one of these times I'll try it.
I would think about cutting the trip hazard shorter &/or adding some reinforcement ribs, nice of them to mold ABS in.
Thanks John for your secrets of the XK8 videos. I have just fixed my fog lamp bracket following your plastic welding tips. It worked great. I melted copper s-links into each side. Copper isn't ideal but it seems strong enough. I've got a picture but you can't see that much.
Thanks John.
Still love to see a fellow enthusiasts work John
john@tothe garage.co.uk
Hi
John,
Nicely done. Perfectly adequate for the application. The real secret of course , is not to let the grandchildren in the back in the first place😯
I always say you should eliminate the root cause rather than treat the symptoms🤣
This was absolutely GREAT! Now I know how I'm going to fix my friend's knitting machine! Thank you!
Excellent tip especially the mesh. Just repaired my wife’s hair drier detachable nozzle. Happy wife, happy 😊 husband, Unhappy Amazon whose lost a sale.
Amazing job! 👏 your craftsmanship is next level on the factory pieces. Keep up the great work. We need more people out there with your skill set and knowledge. I'm in the states, thanks for the video.
Much appreciated Lyall👍
Merci. C est magnifique.
France Normandie.
MARVELOUS VIDEO ! I AM GOING TO BECOME A MILLIONAIRE NOW ! THANK YOU AGAIN
Tyrap, why did I not think of that... Polyfilla, new idea too. Well done
Thanks Bernd
Nice work there John!
Not perfect, but as close as it can get with the material and tools you used.
Thank you for your time and willingness to help us Jaguar owners!
Thanks Knyppel
Great tutorial. I've seen this done with a "plastic welding gun", but not a standard soldering iron.
Very good, I’m impressed. Good thinking, planning and patience can do wonders.👍
I knew about the cable tie, I have seen people use staple clips to join either side. I like your mesh work, I fell on my bike and damaged the two panniers and I used cable tie to cross-hatch the damage, it was a mess internally, but it worked just fine. The mesh idea would have been great. Also, I have seen videos where they use superglue with baking soda.
Superglue can work really well, but always be aware that it will tend to leave a white discolouration or bloom on your trim as it drys. Its the gas coming off the glue and then settling on the surface. Its VERY difficult to remove or totally avoid so best reserved for non cosmetic repairs or where you want to paint it after..
There is a hand held extruder for 3d printer filament. It is used for free form crafts. Its has a rechargeable battery. 3d filament comes in many colours and even in rubbery types. I have never used the hand held one but it sounds useful for what you are doing.
I Also use stainless mesh like you do. I get it from fry pan spatter guards at the cheap shop.
For next time try some staples from a staple gun they work great just lay them on the plastic and push them into the plastic a bit.
Impressive results, especially considering what you had to work with!
thank you for repairing and not replacing! we all need to start doing this
at the macro level, if governments would subsidize repairs, we could provide more jobs and drastically reduce our landfills
Couldn't agree more. If We could still buy Brake shoe linings in the Uk, I would be re lining brake drum shoes rather than replacing all the Very robust metal supports every time.
This is a really great quality tutorial. Thank you for putting so much effort into demonstrating all of those techniques.
You're very welcome! I Almost look forward to broken plastic bits😁
Addressed immediately without the glueing attempt and it would have looked much better on the visible side. I use window screen and actually tried steel wool which helps on curved surfaces. A better flatter tip for the iron would help and something like a razor blade to hold the mesh down as the plastic cools and hardens is indispensable. I taught myself with the harbor freight kit and this type of repair has a sharp learning curve- don't be afraid to experiment and do it outside and not in the living room like I did the first time
Simple easy effective idea with a bit of patience!
I actually find myself looking for plastics to repair!! I quite enjoy it
This is a game changer mate! We'll done
Thank you Very much Michael
I would typically use the soldering iron with a cut off nail (to save my tinned bit). Melt a little down the crack. This is ABS plastic, so find some more scrap ABS plastic, cut or shave into very small pieces, soak in Acetone. Draw the plastic solution up with a syringe. Apply the liquid plastic to the crack and allow it to set overnight. It's also useful as glue for the broken parts. Use small clips to hold it steady while it cures.
This is faster and secure for plastic mending.
It's not aluminium, it's aluminum.
Hi Susan. Top tip re the Acetone slurry. Very effective. A great follow up to the instant hold achieved via the mechanical welding.
Re Aluminium
I am English. It is spelt and pronounced the same way in all english speaking nations except America
Where Websters Dictionary chose to include an alternate spelling, to closer replicate the common American pronunciation of the Element discovered by Sir Humphrey Davey. They later dropped the original Spelling altogether. All non-American dictionaries list it as Aluminium. This is also how it appears on the periodic table used everywhere except America.
Every english speaker understands what Americans are saying when pronouncing Aluminium, and Jaguar.
It is just a localisation of the language and the world is a richer place for it.
Thanks for watching and for the great comment
John
I fixed an abs motorcycle fairing
with a 60 watt soldering iron and pieces of stainles steel fine mesh.
Was more stronger than oem.
Well done👍😁
There's a proper tool for this that heats the metal fasteners instantly. I've seen it on a few car programmes.
Yes I have seen them. They do look very effective. However have never felt that the frequency with which I would need to use it justified getting a specific tool. Plus I find re using scrap wire and mesh more satisfying
@@ToTheGarage its all about saving money and re-using scrap. 👍
Oh wow , your a little bit late for me , my friend . I'm already converted . I learned plastic welding nearly 2 years ago , in an effort to repair the front bumper on my Hymer motorhome . The repair was difficult , as the bumper was hiding more damage than could be seen , and only became visible , with it removed . It even involved removing some of the indicator recessed plastic , which was beyond savage , and replacing with new .
It took a total of three days to put right , but was totally successful , with much of the cost for the welder itself . It cost far less than the replacement cost of a new bumper which retails around 1300 quid . My costs were way less than a quarter .
I've since repaired brackets and clips that are impossible to source .
Early last year , buoyed with this success , i began to convert my dashboard , in the same vehicle to double din . Quite a nerve racking experience , as should it go wrong , sourcing a replacement would have been extremely difficult . The motorhome is 22 years old , and dashboard trim seldom available . The result is staggering , even if i do say so myself . Right now the panel is finished in a brown basecoat , awaiting final finishing . As i can't hope to replicate the original finish , i've decided to apply a walnut burr finish , using a different technique . Hydro-dipping , i'm busy studying that process now . I have since been asked where i sourced the panel , as they've never seen one before . They only believe it's a one off , when i show them the back . As you say , it's not quite perfection .
I have this exact same problem on my Lincoln MKVIII. I'm gonna try this!
Nice. For the front of the crack I've seen baking soda and superglue work but the filler looks good
Easy Peasy Lemon Squeeze !
Nice job there John.
Unfortunately these plastics are the negative from the FORD era Jags, and due the fact that some of them were recycled, hence the resilience through time and heat exposure isn't the same with the genuine materials used, like the Gear shift knob on the "J" gate.
Excellent detailed job John.
Cheers.
Thanks Nicholas. Yes they are not the best very interior plastics,
Removing oils that where sprayed on or put there by your fingers using rubbing alcohol is a necessary step so I don't find it odd at all. Even tho I've done my fair share of these tasks I always check for learning anything new. Cheers from Wisconsin.
Cheers. and thanks for watching.
Get another small piece of abs cut to cover the seam on the back side. Brush the seam and as far past you can as well as the new piece with MEK. It is a solvent that will chemically bond the two pieces plus the support piece together as one. Welding is great you can buy specific rods for different types of plastics.
Its genuinely great fun to do plastic welding👍
@@ToTheGarage i have neen doing it for decades but im hating the project im on now. Got an old garage door opener that some dumbarse hit with a 2x4 i think broke the big outer case on the front where the bulb and lens go. But the metalkic tape held it together until i went to change the bulb. I touched the lens and it fell and nailed me in tje face. Broken in two. Then i went to take the bulb out and the majority of the front fell out in pieces. Still that was ok ish. I removed it to see if i could fix. It only to find the controll board is mounted to a seperate piece of plastic abs/pc . it was in tiny pieces. The unit worked perfectly but i started having to adjust the force it opened and closed with. After taking the big case off i saw why the board was shorting against the frame when it would jiggle while running. I had most put together when the lady that own the house flew by with a 50 lb purse and nailed both pieces knocked them 5' into a wheelbarrow rail then onto two wood planers beliw on paint buckets bursting them further then to the concrete floor. Cant get the pieces any more. Prob spent 200 on glue epoxy rods valium and blood pressure neds trying to save this. Ive got a new one in the box out there but that would be admitting defeat.
Good work. I prefer a flatter soldering iron bit for flat plastic but your skill with round tip works too.
Cool, thanks
The man’s a bloomin Genius!! Awesome 👏
Thank you. I would tell you you are wrong. Only that would be inpolite🤣
Thanks Jack Daniels 64
Very well done. Great video. Perhaps there would be a spray paint color close enough to match? There are so many rattle can colors available now. That may be a good option.
Great suggestion!
Super video- excellent approaches to these otherwise tricky unsightly repairs- cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it
I use the sun, with a powerful magnifying glass, to melt across the crack, and then spread the molten plastic across with a stainless (clean) knife blade. This (temporarily) holds both broken pieces together. If I am welding ABS, I find a piece of similar thickness, and size of ABS. I place this additional (shaped) piece directly over the crack, ensuring all areas to be welded, are cleaned and slightly roughened with some glasspaper. Then, I heat a broad flat knife until it 'blues'. I raise this additional piece of ABS, and then (with a heated knife) you place the additional repair piece on top of the knife, whilst also pressing the underside of the knife against the parent ABS. The whole lot 'fuses' together, as you slowly drag the heated knife out and press down on top. The addition of added ABS really strengthens the potentially weak area. The edges are then 'feathered-in, with the same hot knife. This has always worked for me. Greetings from Australia.
Excellent intel Peter. Love the heated knife idea. However using the sun and a magnifying glass is probably more appropriate on your island than on mine😔
🤣🤣
amazing job, you save people money but autopart store lost
👍
I realize this is an older video, but you could use a heat gun or torch to heat up the wire and then push it into the plastic. Quicker and would do the repair much better. Also, swap out the soldering iron tip for a flat circular type to heat the material. Again, much easier and smoother as well. Just some ideas...
Certainly agree its easier with a flat tipped iron Gary. 👍
You could heat the wire and then apply it to get it started but it will chill down as soon as it starts to penetrate the plastic. Re heating it husing a torch or heatgun would be asking molten trim😁. So you would probably need to finish off with a soldering gun anyway.
You can buy guns that electrically heat wire staples and then shoot them into the plastic. These are great for thicker plastics and where you dont mind a little surface damage on the other side.
To the garage: thank you very kindly John! This is fascinating enough to watch that I’ve been sitting here with my coat on starting to sweat, but I couldn’t put down the video and leave the house until I saw how your project turned out. Lol
Glad you enjoyed it Daphne👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Betting that today you use UV glue...it will fill the gaps on each side but work the back side first. Sand well so the glue can bond well. Or but ABS welding rods for the back and UV glue for the parts that show. It is clear mostly.
Can't see that anyone else has suggested it.... 3d printer filement (ABS or PLA) can be used like solder to fill and bridge gaps. I think sample lengths can be found on ebay.
Thanks Martin. I think this is an excellent idea👍👍
What an amazing video. Attention to detail was fantastic. Well done mate, learnt a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it Salim
Thanks for sharing, this technique will come in handy! 👏👏👏
Top tip when your soldering iron is cold undo the screw pop the tip out and put it back in the other way around and you will end up with a flat end
A great tip.. If you will excuse the pun👍
Nice technique… help a lot sir. from Philippines
Thanks for watching lenonzki👍
Good camera work, good information.
Glad you liked it!
Brilliant, that was really interesting, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
If you have probs with welding or chemical bonding try Q bond. Its freaking amazing. You can seam plastics together. Mold ,repair, fill missing pueces and do the same with netals and most any material.
Thanks for the tip! I will look out for Q bond
I like the clever embedded wire trick
Thanks Tyler. Fun to do as well.
@@ToTheGarage I got a very nice retro CRT I received with shipping damage so this info will be immediately going to good use! lol.
My mates got s 3D printer £300
I’m thinking you could print one of these
But I liked your methods well done 👍
Stephen Duller
ohhh Steve! This is your fault!
Now I want a 3D printer. I’m never going to be rich🙄
Thanks for watching Steve👍😉
it works for my holden commodore too i guess that this video will be one less headache for the v12 jaguar owners lol
👍
You are a genius 😀
Well done! Thank you for making this video!
Excellent , unmatchable task !!👋👋👌
Thank you
Fantastic and detailed explanation for the new in this hobby. Thank you for sharing your valuable experience. Cheers. :)
No problem Khalid. Thanks for taking the time to commment👍
Good job, congratulation sir.
Many many thanks for taking the time to comment Silvio
Great job,excellent.
I'm thinking that if you either sprayed or brushed on the property plastic paint that it would probably fill in some of the crack if you found the right color too
The wire method is imo far better and stronger. I have just bought a 1999 XK 8 with a cracked cover as per video or if i can find a cheap weller soldering gun it will make the job really easy. It will get the treatment later when some other issues have been fixed.
Like the vids re the XK 8's keep them comming. Any idea where the aux alarm sounder is situated ? Think mine is caput and causing a battery drain.
Hi @philf5043 the sounder is below the right hand headlight and axcessed throgh the hatch in the wheelarch liner👍
Thanks for the heads up where the sounder is. Ill remove it and see if it can be refurbed with new batteries.
Excellent instruction
Glad it was helpful!
I can tell you that the plastic on jaguars is brittle as hell. I had at least 10 places where the plastic broke. The older it got the worse the plastic was as well. It was about 8 yrs old when I got rid of it. The door panels were loose and several other things inside and under hood were broken. It started with the brake line that had a plastic valve. It just made it hard to press brake it only leaked air.
Do you live in a particularly Hot area Neal? Sounds like your plastics aged very quickly! 8 years is nothing on non sun bleached parts
Nicely done!
Thanks
Great information!! Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
very impressive. good video thanks
Glad you liked it!
John,
Very interesting. I wonder whether this technique could be used to repair the undertray of my 2001 XKR. If not, do you have any tips for dealing with this common problem caused by grounding on potholes and kerbs?
Hi John Pretty sure you could apply all of this to your undergrad. Also has the advantage of being out of most peoples sight. It will give you a good item to practice on.
Its really quite fun!. But choose somewhere well ventilated to do it.
Nice garrage dollystrip vlog
Thank you 😊
You should use like steel wool to make it as strong as possible
Thanks for sharing a nice experience
It's my pleasure
Hi John,, Thank You for the great video, some goog ideas in there for repairing ABS pastic. I am just about to plunge headlong into the repair of an ABS dinghy. I got dinghy very cheaply as it has a few cracks in the hull !!
ABS has a reputation as being very difficultult to repair, but watching your video has given me some confidence in doing it myself. I intend to make a video about the whole project, so I will let you know how it goes.
Glad to help. And Good luck. Sounds like a really great project.
definitely keep us in the loop👍
Nice work!
Thanks!
Awesome video . I've learned something new . I would have filled the crack with super glue rather than Pollyfilla then sanded and sprayed .
Thanks David. I may still go down that route🤔 Do you know where to get spray paint in the right cream?
@@ToTheGarage I'd cheat and spray it black .
@@davidpreston8414 🤣
Outline the crack with painters tape. Use baking soda and super glue. Baking soda gets into the cracks take a credit card smooth it flush then you dribble water like viscosity superglue in an it hardens to a rock. Then you sand and paint.
I see that the plastic is ABS so I'm wondering if you just couldn't use plumbing solvents your plumbing glue systems with the cleaner and the actual glue to connect weld this plastic
I might give that a try Arlen. Ive never considered plumbing solvents. 🤔. Time for an experiment👍
13:10 It may work more easily if you were to place the aluminum mesh in a toaster oven for a few minutes, to preheat..Or heat it with a cigarette lighter.
Those are good ideas donktheclown 🤣it felt wrong typing your TH-cam name.. Like inciting Clown abuse🤣
@@ToTheGarage Lol !!
microcracks in ABS are better fixed using solvent welding; for complete broken parts, ABS resin (like pipe glue) is better; welding is good for plastics that do not dissolve in solvent - like PP, PA, HDPE, or Nylon
Do you model plastic hobby kits? You would do a marvellous job if you were to try it!
I am going to be 3d printing some ABS plastic but what I am making will be to big for the print bed so breaking it up into several prints will melting a couple of nails into the plastic to hold it work or if it is possible can I melt some ribbon style magnets so that it can then just be held in place onto where it will live with the magnets
Ex cellist ideas. Happy experimenting
Will the color restorer re-soften the pollyfilla? Seems like it would be water base? Thanks for the vid, nice work
Most likely😁. Was fine on mine though
Just a tip when going for structural integrity when welding plastic avoid using filler that is colored when possible and the worst color is red...speaking from working multiple years at a company building plastic welders for commercial applications such as welding battery tops on, center consols and appliance parts among many things
Thanks Craig. thats an excellent and very niche tip!
A better way to do a long seem like that is to use some small wire screen in strips in an axle flat tip for plastic welding that attaches to the soldering iron much better repair
You can also copy the texture with hot glue...press it into some melted plastic...like a stamp
Great plan🤔
very nice
Thanks
Great! How much does spare cost and how much does this fix cost?
Original new spares will cost you around £70 per side. IF you can get some.
This fix would cost a few pounds, and then only if you repaint it.
@@ToTheGarage THANKS A LOT!
Replace that tip with a bolt to bond the screens!
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
I simply heat the wire first on my cigarette lighter and then place it in there with the help of Nozepliers. It's way more easy than doing with soldering iron.
Sounds like a good method for on the road repairs👍
@@ToTheGarage yeah it sure is😉
How do I determine the type of plastic? It happens to be the cab roof of a Lexion Combine.
Back up all the work with Permatex ABS plastic welding epoxy. Use in a well ventilated area, it is very irritating to the nose.
Thanks for the tip!
is that a SOLDERING IRON or a WOOD BURNING TOOL ? Is there a difference? higher temperature ?
Its a soldering iron. Not sure if that makes it a different temperature?
Woah that's cool!
Thanks😎
13:20 ... heat the metal don't the plastic ... bla...bla.. bla..
To avoid not heating the plastic
I think it is best if you use a small piece of thin aluminium sheet that placed on the top side of metal while continue soldering
🇮🇩👍😀🤜🤛🙏
Did Super Glue go out of business? :).
Hi Jose. Its typically too brittle a joint for this application. But super glue can get you out of trouble on occasion. Just be careful as it tends leave a white bloom all over the workpiece if used in a quantity larger than a few drops
John, My XK8 has both its outer hinge covers cracked with the upper part missing. Otherwise I would repair them. Do you have any idea how I can get two (rt and lt) outside covers?? I simply can't find any here in Canada. My plan is to make molds and reproduce them in fiberglass or carbon fiber and can return the originals completely undamaged, Any thoughts????
I don't have any spare trim Pieces Richard.
Anyone else have some to donate to Richards project?