HOW TO FIX broken plastic ULTIMATE Welding Forming Repair techniques
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- HOW TO FIX broken plastic parts.
$10 soldering iron w/temp control: amzn.to/3A251OV
Stainless Steel MESH SCREEN sheets: amzn.to/3w2mtzx
Soldering GUN I used(worth the little more $): amzn.to/2U3iQfn
Tools I used in the video though not necessary.
Dewalt 20v Large Die Grinder I used: amzn.to/2Uah6kH
Milwaukee M12 die grinder: amzn.to/3jqcj97
Carbide burrs for smoothing: amzn.to/2UHlDes
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sixtyfiveford
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Using a small bag of sand under the part makes working on the odd shapes much easier.
Very true.
Good tip!
Genius!
@@sixtyfiveford *_ At **02:48** he says "Going DEEP into MY Crack" .... Ha Ha _*
Great advice(!), thank you. :-)
This guy is like the MacGyver of repairs!
Cool, I've often used cut up paperclips as 'rebar' to melt in and embed in the plastic.
That's a good tip. I'll have to remember that
Haha even though it was like 12$ at the time , I got that cheap harbor freight plastic welder and felt robbed when I opened it and had a soldering iron , some screen and some plastic sticks to melt.
I've got that stuff laying around the shop 🤣
@@MrTheHillfolk I love that kit! It saved me over $5k. I messed up my 2002 BMW Z3 M roadster. The stupid parts for just the brake duct cooling was getting over in the $1k range for used parts. I could almost buy a used one take the parts off cheaper. I ended up buy 3 kits. Learned to build up sand and paint. Can't even tell now.
You should check out the hot weld staple gun and assortments of different shape staples for it. They are all stainless steel and there are inside & outside corners, wave shapes and straight shapes. I just got one a couple weeks ago and I'm repairing plastic parts that are so small you would never think you could repair them but with these 0.6 mm and 0.8 mm wire staples and the precision with the hand gun welder it's amazing what you can fix now. No more throwing parts away that are broken because I can't glue them together. Now I weld them with wire staples melted into the plastic and if it's still warm enough you can push the plastic together where the staple went in with a small flat head screwdriver or fill it in with the liquid resin that hardens under ultraviolet light and then sand it down and it's like new.
Pph
This is where the internet shines. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Wow, thank you!
You can put you HDPE in a toaster oven on 275 for about 10 min and make your own contours. Softens it up with out being too hot to handle.
This is an excellent video. No nonsense,no wasted time. No BS. Just real world ,useful knowledge. 👌👌 cheers buddy!
You obviously didn't watch until the end. There was copious amounts of nonsense out in the lawn, hahaha.
@@Zebrahead6000 You obviously need to work on your lame trolling skills... XD
I've been using this trick for years, I like to use strips of weedeater string for my filler. Great content!
Very interesting and informative video. When you cut your screening for reinforcement do it on the diagonal. That way when you put it across your seam you'll have twice the number of wires strands crossing the repair.
I learned from a video about fabrics and sewing that cuts diagonal to the weave of the material is called cutting 'on the bias'. But with fabrics, the purpose is to provide increased flexibility, as most fabric only stretches in one direction. It's strange how different industries like to make up their own confusing terms for similar things.
For your consideration, I've had success putting donor like plastic in a jar with a little acetone(finger nail polish remover). When it is melted you can apply it in and around the crack and even lay some wire mesh in it. When it cures it's strong.
Fantastic! Thanks for the info
im going to try this just out of interest
That triggered a childhood memory of trying to clean out a clear plastic butter box with acetone (laziness).
It became opaque. And I had to get rid of the 'evidence', pyro-style.
MEK
@@mankindapparel methyl ethyl ketone ? nasty stuff
I've also duplicated the texture using a bed liner spray. Repaired a dash using some of these techniques and fiberglass mesh with filler, sanded smooth, shot with the bed liner spray. Amazingly stock result.
This guy is on the money. Done a ton of plastic welding over the years, especially my time in the body shop. We always used stainless mesh to backup the repair area with a decent overlap on the back of the repair. I use 'like types' of plastic when doing the repair. If you don't have the actual filler rods, cutting or melting strips of some scrap plastic is the best and cheapest method to get your filler. There are specific tips that are flat for the soldering gun that are designed for this. Then there is air plastic welding. Same principal, different tool. Thanks for sharing this. Nice to know I've been making these type of repairs like this in the same way.
Great tips. I like to use 3d printer filament as filler. Lots of people have some and it works good
... makes those busted up spoilers & auto bumpers laying beside the road a resource instead of an eyesore.
@@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin
Absolutely. Damn good point and I guess I never really thought about it that way. 👍
I worked in Blytheville AR as a backshop composite mechanic many moons ago. One of the parts that came off of an ATR72 was a console piece roughly 10"x10" a new one ran $10k but I tried to plastic weld with an expensive machine. I was absolutely clueless. Before the days of TH-cam. This video has opened my eyes to the ease of welding. Thank you so very much for taking time to perform this act of kindness. 😃😃😃
Thanks Man.
This is why i subbed, Ive been on this channel from the start and watched your channel grow. you have always delivered great content.. thank you.
I did a lot of plastic welding as a ski shop tech back in the 90's. We had a hot air welder that didn't require contact with the plastic, but sometimes using a soldering iron or the torch-heated tip of an old screw driver was necessary.
At my ski shop in the 90s we used PTEX, essentially black ABS, set it on fire and dripped it into the deep scratches of the bases of skis/snowboards.
@@brianwelteroth9248 PTEX was quick and easy, but it is pretty soft and would wear out quickly. We had an extrusion gun that was a similar product, but had better adhesion and lasted longer. But sometimes, with deep gouges and core shots, you had to lay in some epoxy, then a few beads of plastic filler rod with the air welder.
You're really good at that! I'm saving your video to rewatch when I get frustrated.
I've been working on my plastic repair skills for a while now (because we live in a plastic world, and I don't like using all my plastic money to constantly buy new plastic things all the time). I'm getting pretty good - I figured out using metal reinforcement, and I also save nicely-contoured bits of junk plastic and extra window screen. I just need a better soldering gun now - I have at least 5 or 6 electric and gas powered pen-type ones at this point that I just don't like... Maybe then I can work more on crafting new filler pieces.
What really turned my game around though was being able to finally adhesive-bond those low surface energy plastics (i.e. PP, HDPE, LDPE, high-modulus-PE, PTFE, POM/acetal, TPO). I found polyolefin/LSE primer and a cyanoacrylate brand that I like, and I'm on a roll! Fixed my headlight housing yesterday, a travel mug the day before, it never ends, it all breaks. With the right primer I'm getting a killer bond on all those tricky plastics now, I'm even able to bond Delrin, Teflon, Dyneema, and EPDM stronger than the material itself. Not always a substitute for plastic welding though, which is why I really appreciate the video!!
Keep fixin!
Wow! You know your chemistry!
Great comments. Do you make videos on this subject?
With few exceptions, most automotive plastics are some formulation of ABS. I've done the hot air welding and have a wood-burning iron (from the hobby store) and can make most repairs between those two tools. The wood burner is great, as the temp is variable and it comes with a bunch of different tips depending on what you're working on. I have learned that whenever possible, you want to make your filler rod from the same plastic that you're trying to repair.
your right ! you can't use hspd for abs plastic !
Oh, hey, I didn't think about a woodburner! I've got both the soldering iron and the woodburner, so I could use both for different places or applications. Thanks for the idea! 🙂👍🏼
Definitely. You need to use a filler rod that is the same type of plastic as the part you are welding.
you can weld abs with acetone
@@Spookydude3 explain
Nice. This is the exact method I use. I even have the same soldering iron. If you can find it there is a special tip (weller 6160) that kinda looks like flat spoon that works perfectly for plastic. I can get weld that looks like a tig weld bead with that tip. I got a bunch of them on clearance for about a dollar each. I guess nobody knew what they were for.
One came in the set dad bought years ago...said it was a desoldier tip
@@red2965 ooh, that's the search term I need, huh? Sweet, thanks!
Wow. The stuff YT was actually designed for. Well done. Subbed.
Hey Thanks.
Lots of good stuff in there
“Waste not, save a lot”, with 65 Ford 😊👍
Exactly. Thanks!
Had a '62 f-100
MY stepdad used to repair TVs. He used to use pieces of small wire-like paper clips and bend them in zigzag and give a very strong bond & rigidity to the broken cabinets.
Put a copper spoon end on your soldering gun it will do even better
Great tip with the mesh - I always thought my crude solder iron welding on plastic was a bit ghetto but seeing your results has given me some ideas 👍
I used to fix Atari joysticks like this when I was a kid. My dad fussed a bit because I screwed up his soldering iron tip, but he let me keep doing it. I also did this to repair the internal part of cassette player buttons when the arms had broken inside. The repairs looked terrible, but they worked. It was nice remembering that. Thanks, sixtyfiveford!
I get pissed at myself for screwing up my soldering iron tip with plastic. Lol. Your dad was just venting.
He was letting you use the tool because it worked, while also letting you know not to fuck up your soldering tip. He was switching tips behind your back.
I've wondered about a "cheap" way to repair plastic. Thank you for this video. Also to those who submitted additional helpful tips.
This was great. I had damaged the grill on my riding lawn mower when the strap holding it in place on my trailer slipped and the grill bounced off the front wall of my trailer. It wasn't destroyed but it was in pretty bad shape. I've been thinking about different ways of repairing it by adding metal backing and that type of thing. After seeing this I pulled my trusty Weller dual Heat solder gun out and very carefully realign the parts and plastic welded them back together. I've done some repair like this on Old tape recorders and other AV cases but never thought of doing something this big. I was even able to replace a couple of missing pieces of plastic in the grill with other plastic that I salvaged from parts I would have thrown away. This save me over $125. Thanks for great video.
I’ve done a lot of plastic welding in the past, you have introduced me to something new..the Screen and any thin wire that can be heated and melted in. I used to use the rounded plastic that other plastic stuff is attached to, kind of the size of a Straw. I’m 76 and I’m STILL learning.
Many decades ago, my dad told me that if it was a day I learned something, it was a day not wasted! I've tried to live up to that my whole life. 🙂
You are so right every day is a school day,
It shows you are here to learn what ever the subject.
I’m just the same and willing to pass on my skills just as freely to anyone willing to learn.
if youre concerned about other cracks popping up, you can melt a single big piece of screen over the entire are of the back of the plastic panel.
I've used safety wire in my solder gun to use as a hot staple. Works pretty good too. But I twist it just under theto layer of plastic but I really like the window screen mesh. Super strong, fixable to for contours and thin to work with thin plastic.
Just figured the first part out myself trying to get some fluorescent lights at work fixed with bad tombstones and no parts available. I use the same 200 watt gun, it works great.
Thanks so much for the advanced lessons, your videos are mind blowing.
Definitely the best channel for me to learn tricks in industrial maintenance, by far!
This is amazing knowledge to have....
Ok I just subscribed, this is my kind of channel.
Good tips. I've done this for years. Once in a while you'll get a combo that oxidizes(burns) and either won't stick or becomes brittle. To help that, use some nitrogen or probably whatever welding gas you have to flood the area with shielding gas while they melt. Keeping the tempt down below 400F will also help keep it from scorching. I just bought a hot staple gun to fix a John Deere plastic hood. They are essentially the sam as your wire swiggles that load into the end of the soldering gun type contraption. Once it heats it melts into the plastic. Then you let it cool for a minute and release the staple. Pretty cool product for a larger project. Btw. I found an old Rabbit dash shelf laying in the field at my Dads old place. Not sure if any of it is usable. Lmk if you want to see some pics of it.
great tip, I'll just go to the trunk and get that bottle of nitrogen I just knew would come in handy some day 🙄
Can't believe how long it has taken for this to come into my life. I've been frustraged so many times by crappy glue jobs on plastic that just failed. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
aint it the truth....I feel like a little bit of an idiot at almost 60 years old. And the young crowd will just love that we're just not throwing plastic away....this could be an issue for a closet hoarder like myself.
Super helpful. I had a cracked face plate on my chainsaw allowing the tension screw to pop out. It was not safe to use because the chain tension could not be tightened. I used your technique with HDPE and window screen and it’s working great now. Even with the tension screw firmly pressing on the inside of the plastic plate. Thanks for helping me save a chainsaw!
You don't want to use PVC as a welding rod !!!! When you heat PVC up it releases vinyl chloride gas which is toxic ! That's what that funny smell is!!!
Bro.... I know... I just got done commenting, even HDPE plastic (when pigmented) can contain extremely volitile gasses that are not only carcinogenic but can contain other nasty bi-products that you'd only know about by looking at the MSDS sheet... And that's if it's even available.
I can't imagine the amount of people that have done this to sewer piping doing some stupid project; it's not an immediate effect but it's a long term destruction and he's purposely being ignorant to warning people.
You need to change your channel name to Hogwarts or something, because everything in here is borderline wizardry. I keep looking in the background for wands, pointy hats and shoes, but you've hidden them really well. Your house number is 9 1/2 isn't it?
I pretend to TIG weld with zip ties. Makes me feel like I have talent.
Good information. For cracks I stopped plastic welding & started using epoxy with sheetrock fiberglass drywall tape. This combination bonds the pieces & makes for a very strong repair. Your technique for making missing pieces is great. I'm sure I will use it one day.
Thanks man.
Great stuff. Have repaired a few motorcycle side covers and plastic pieces using zip ties and never had much success. Your techniques and materials work way better. Thanks for the info.
Motorcycle fairings are usually abs but the more expensive ones use carbon fibre and these parts cannot be welded
Great video's. One question: Why not melt screen into the entire part so it never breaks anywhere later on?
Dude get yourself a wood burning kit. The good ones generally come with a good variety of interchangeable tips, some like a soldering iron and some are big flat ones which work great for smoothing everything out in the end and blending. The one I have has a dial so you can very precisely control your heat which is super handy. It’s definitely worth it if you’re fixing plastic parts.
Tom, what’s the name of the kit you have? A photo would help as well, thanks
And I thought you was going to say crazy glue and baking soda...lol (which does work too BTW) but this is an awesome idea. I remember as a kid trying to fix any broken plastic toys with a hot as hell nail straight out of the stove top or a butter knife.... never worked as good as this. The temperature regulation was the missing piece of the puzzle. Great video, thanks.
Hey Moe, you sure must like that V dub. You are putting lots of time into it. Gonna be a daily driver?
It'll be a daily driver for me or someone else. I'm just playing around with the small details to make it look presentable.
Thank you for this awesome DIY plastic welding video. I learned a great deal. Carry On Sir!
Very informative, well explained video. One suggestion: use your camera's zoom function or zoom in post-production to get some closeups of your weld technique.
Thanks so much for a great informative video. You covered so many aspects of plastic repair. Well done!
I've been doing this for years. After I got into 3d printing I started doing this different. I use a 3d pen now. $20-40 on Amazon. Melts it and I can extrude whatever type of plastic I need, hdpe,abs,pla, etc.
I do have a 3D pen, but it doesn't seem to melt to the parent material extremely well.
@@sixtyfiveford yeah it can be a bit tougher. I turn the pen up as high as it will go and push the tip into the item to melt it. I add the additional material from the pen once it's good and hot. I do also use a wood burner (soldering iron for wood) with various tips as well.
For quick repairs though, just turn the 2d pen on high, smash the tip in and glob on the filler.
Knowing your plastics is a good step. Nylon is 550 degrees average when molding. Abs 480.
Styrene 480. Pvc is around 380.
You don't want to burn pvc, it's polyvinyl chloride. It can give off dangerous gas.
Several plastics will give off pretty dangerous chemicals when burning. One should always do this stuff in a well-ventilated area!
Oh, and I like the chicken eye closeup! Got a favorite breed or breeds? Mine are Light Brahmas, Banty Cochins, French Marans, and my recent new addition, Sapphire Gems. 😁
Dude, you offer some of the best, no-bullshit practical advice available. Thank you
Outstanding video! I have a bunch of projects that need fixing now. Much appreciated!
Awesome info bud! Wish I had this knowledge before. Thanks for all the great vids.
I don't know which I like better... Your craftsmanship.. or your beautiful dog 🐶...
You are a true Eco Guard, in other words, a person that fixes broken items and teaching others. Thus, preventing the broken and now fixed item from going to the landfill. This also saves the repairer much money. Well done.
Certain items simply cannot be bought or replaced...this is the way to make them still serviceable and useful
This is hands down, the best video on plastic welding. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, talent and experience. 💯💯💯💯💯
If you're doing this on a cosmetic side, you will want to try to use the same type of plastic and build it up well so you can demand it down. Mixing plastics though essentially creates a polymer and is often stronger than the original plastic just by mixing them. The mesh is a great idea.
I've found that regular Elmer's school glue works great for filling the small cracks on the finished(pretty) side. Idk if it matters but I let the glue dry before painting and if you have a textured pattern on the finished side you can use clay and a touch of vegetable oil to copy the pattern and press into the glue after it is started to set and is semi solid. Applying the oil to the clay keeps it from sticking in the pattern grooves and keeps the glue from adhering to the clay if the glue isn't set enough. Hope this helps someone
I'd think that wouldn't be very stable afte awhile. Especially in really hot and cold weather. But the clay could easily work if heat was applied to the exterior plastic, too.
Thanks...Simple Science..
Another material that can be used for reinforcement is steel wool. Nice video, as usual.
Thanks! I have done plastic welding as you’ve shown it for years, but source of material, type and your other tips were amazing, great, etc. Thanks, again….Jim
PS…….I started doing this on car tailights, still do many car repair plastic parts.
Can you share the secret how do you keep tail light or head light plastic transparent?
I had already figured out welding plastic with a soldering pen, but I had not thought of using metal screen as a fortifier. Thanks for the tip! That's a great idea. I can tell without even testing that it will work.
If you have thicker plastic or need stronger binding metal, carton sealing staples work too., They are nice and flat and exceptionally strong
Thank you for the awesome advice I fixed some headphones that were not holding with glue anymore the steel mesh fix with plastic did a amazing job of making it stronger than before .......great advice buddy appreciate here from southern AZ ......
I like this! The solution to plastic repair is so simple and practical. I'm on my way to Harbor Freight to get a soldering gun. Oh, by the way, did I mention that I like this? :-)
Loved your work mate! You're fantastic!! Cheers!
Love your Ginger endings!
This is awesome. Makes me want to go break plastic just to repair it lol
Great tutorial on plastic welding. This can be a real handy thing to know… thanks for the post, awesome content as always.
Thanks Man.
Great video. I needed to repair a tab on the side cover for my motor cycle. I super glued it and it held for a while. I'm sure this method will help me make a permanent repair.👍👍👍
Thanks Man.
I took my dad's 250 watt solder Iron and silver soldered a flat stainless steel plate to the copper tip, works great for welding and melting in the screen. Recently bought a hot weld staple gun for thick plastic
I use a similar technique, but I first tape it together using Kapton tape. The tape withstands the high temperatures of the soldering iron, keeps the plastic from oxidizing, holds the pieces perfectly and makes for a better looking and stronger weld.
I smashed the front end of my BMW M roadster and the ducting for cooling my brakes radiator fan shroud, bumper and lower grill were all busted up. Got the welding kit from Harbor Fright learned how to fix it all myself save thousands on parts and I know they are fixed well too. Couldn't fix the broken radiator or transmission cooler or power steering cooler up front but she's was due for upgrades lol.
Awesome!
I broke down and bought one a couple years back. I’m a fairly accomplished welder yet found using that thing was damnably hard. In fact I found using this style such as in the video seemed to work better🥺.
One word of caution with the HF machine to keep it from burning up. Once you’re finished LEAVE THE AIR RUNNING. It will let the insides that stay very hot cool down spit doesn’t burn up internally. I hot that yip from a guy who uses them on a commercial basis
@@drizler good notes, I couldn't get the air one to work for me I used the iron and mesh one to fix my car and so much more
@@drizler that's exactly what must be done with a commercial-grade (or any, really) heat gun. If you don't, the elements inside will burn up in nothing flat.
Pretty good video. Lots of good tip
I have used the screen also, it works good. I used to use a rig like yours & sometimes still do, but mostly now use a pencil style iron with a screw in tip. I have several tips that I made just for plastic welding of brass & stainless. I shaped one triangular shaped so that I can easily melt into the crack, and then turn it sideways to mix& smooth the plastic. I have another one of stainless that was a wide flat piece with a threaded portion that screws right into my iron. I shaped it spoon like on one side down to a thin edge. That one I turn sideways to melt in the crack and then use the flat spoon side to mix the plastic and smooth at the same time. This one works great to push screen into the plastic very quickly. They make the work go very quickly and I get a lot of plastic mixing and I am able to smooth out the plastic so it looks really smooth.
Love your channel! Keep up the great work! Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks Doug. -Moe
I skimmed through the comments section quite a bit. Everyone seems to be praising the usefulness of the video or sharing what techniques they have tried before seeing this video ... What nobody seems to mention in any of the comments... Isn't plastic an insanely toxic material that has been scientifically proven to produce some of the most carcinogenic vapors known to human kind when it is burned?!?!
Is breathing the smoke coming directly from melting plastic dangerous (even if it just smells like wax, as he said in the video)?
...it can't be good for you. But, MEH! To heck with being safe. Who cares about their health anyway? Don't forget what your high school woodshop teacher taught ya... SAFETY 3rd!
Well... It's official! This video definitely confirms it...
Fact:
⚠️ Prop. 65 Warning ⚠️
Significant exposure to TH-cam can cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.
😉👍 ........
Be safe out there, Kids!
....... ☠️👍
Great tip with the screen. I keep stepping on my plastic dust pan I leave on the ground and make new breaks to weld. It is worth people buying a roll at Home Depot for $8.48. The aluminum screen is so useful. Can filter fluids like oil when pouring into a container, or making a box screen to catch bait in a stream for for fossil hunting, can use it on the end of a pipe to catch lint, use it in sink drains, etc.
Agreed, I use it for a ton of stuff.
Fossil hunting, with bait? I hope that one of those "fors" was supposed to be an 'or,' instead, LOL!
Fantastic video as usual. Thank you so much! Cheers👍
This is very interesting. I like how you used the window screen to make the parts stronger. That’s a very good tip. I also like the fact that did extensive research to find out that plastic labeled with HDPE will weld better. I learned a lot today.
No clickbait? No long backstory? Just full of actual useful information. Unbelievable!
Thanks for another great video! After using both top end "plastic welders" and HF equipment, your methods make complete sense, especially your tips on reinforcement. It's a real pain getting just the right heat with forced air welders. For larger jobs the equipment works, but smaller work pieces often suffer.
Hey Thanks. That's been my experience with hot air welders. Fine for thick car bumpers but destroy thinner plastics.
You, my man, genius👍
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you. I had a plastic repair that I needed to make.
TH-cam has awesome recommendations. It read my mind. I didn't even look for this video.
Cool and creepy at the same time. Now I'm a bit creeped out 🤣😂
When using the copper wire, (You can use steel wire as well. Like the wire used to tie rebar together.), coil it around a nail or a dowel. Pull the coil off. Stretch it out a bit. Then flatten it. Not quite a mesh. But easier that trying to feed individual pieces into the "weld". By the way, I thought of the crack jokes, the first time you said it.
I like the way you think. I have used that method before but the plastic has to be pretty thick.
DUDE !!!! That was awesome !!!! I'm a tinkerer and a picker and there have been a TON of times I've needed to weld plastic. I can't believe I've never tried this before, GREAT video boss !!!!
Another great how to video. I’ve got that same welding/soldering gun. It was my dad’s. I’ve had it probably 40 years.
The old Weller soldering guns seam to never die.
I've got the same one, also from _my_ dad! He was a radio & TV repairman for a long, long time and then after retirement, he still did DIY tinkering with different electronics, so it was used hard for many years, and still works good!
Wow I am impressed when you molded a missing piece to the ignition cover from scrap plastic.
Thank you for passing on the knowledge!
I used to do this to repair those old CRT television back when clients damage them you need to get some sort of respirator to prevent inhaling the fuel from the plastic
No you dont
@@mikek4610 if you're doing it in an enclosed area, without much ventilation, yeah, you absolutely do. 🙄
I thought I’d never see a soldering gun like the one I’ve owned for a super long time.
I’m guessing your is a Weller? Mine is a Weller 8100-B. From reading online and taking the Patent # from the side it’s believed that they started making them in the 1950’s.
From the looks of mine I strongly believe this to be true! 😜
Also the tips that came with the gun were for cutting plastic tile and for mending and sealing as well as electrical wire soldering.
Anyways appreciate the video.
Every now and then, you stumble onto a subject and just marvel at the simplicity someone is doing to fix or repair something. You've open my eyes to
numerous projects that I have to mend things. Thank you.
mind blowing! i will probably use this knowledge at some point soon
You made me laugh when you said no crack jokes, I wasn't even thinking that, until you said it. Jayman...
😆 😆
That’s a great idea with the metal screen. I will have to remember that. I have special tips with flat sides to use on the soldering gun for plastic.
I remember doing this many years ago for a buddy's son who had crashed the family 3-wheeler ( I told you this was years ago!) absolutely trashing the plastic fenders! He needed to buy some time while the new fenders were ordered and shipped. We pieced the broken pieces together, welded using 'rod' cut from junk fenders, and he went "mudding" covering the machine with dirt! Two weeks later, we replaced the muddy fenders with new ones! He went mudding again, but that time when he got home, he washed it so Dad could take it for a ride.It was years before his Dad discovered the 'stitched' fenders and the story. LOL
I work with plastics everyday hdpe pe nylon acetal(delrin ) peek even mc901 used for making gears.
Some will weld easily but polythene is fussy sometimes.
A nasty finnish can be flame polished with some plastics.
you could try wrapping the thin copper around a zip tie, slide it off and flatten it with a hammer to make a mat with multiple overlapped wires and make it as fast as bending back and forth.
Seems to me just using the screen mesh would be tons easier and faster.
Thanks. Awesome! Perfect instructions, unlike many other lesson videos. I have a big plastic hdpe box I want to hold sand to serve as molds for sculpture concrete casting. But it has a big crack in the bottom. I was hoping it would be possible to salvage, as it is the perfect box for my needs, with strong reinforced sides, & I don't think I could even find one to replace it. I had hauled out wood to build... & now I can save all the wood/ construction/ staining/ sealing.
I find an isolating saw makes precise, smooth cuts, especially with plastic. There is none of that "violent" shaking that you may get with a saw.
I had to go look up a new tool but I assume you mean oscillating?
@@T0tenkampf yeah, that has to be what they meant. There's no such thing as an "isolating" saw.
Window screen for the win! It's aluminum though, not stainless.
Was looking for this comment!
Stainless window screen can be bought at any Home Imp store. Along with Aluminum and Fiberglass.
@@sixtyfiveford I was unaware of that. A check of the local Lowes showed that (indeed) you can get it. A bit spendy, but a useful product to know about. Thanks!!!
@@solarguy6043 Aluminum works the same, I just have a big roll of stainless so that's what I use.
If it's in the car it's more than likely ABS plastic... There are many additional videos to teach "right to repair" basics on plastics. Covering the markings to identifying types of plastic, comparability and proper fillers methods for repairing them. I suggest viewing as many as possible
Awesome video... Makes perfect sense - I think like you said the key is finding a good "filler" plastic. I'm going to be looking at the forming stamps on any broken plastic from now on lol.
Your nylon is brittle because it's hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture and then melting it destroys its structure. When injection molding nylon parts, the plastic resin is dried in a sealed hopper prior to molding. On the other hand, if you throw your nylon zip ties in a pot of boiling water for 15-30 minutes they will be much much stronger. Also, nylon is not really compatible for melting with most other plastics like ABS, HDPE and Acetal because of it's higher melting point and semi-crystaline structure.
Great job on your repair! Thanks for this video 👍
Great info.
Great info but unclear about your point. So the nylon zip ties CAN be used if you boil them first for 15 to 30 min and then used to weld other nylon material?
Awesome tips Moe.
Have never plastic welded but that opened up a lot of ideas for me.
P.S. one of my dogs barked at yours all the way from Melbourne Australia. (I guess that was g'day mate 👍)
Very imformative Thank you. Saved me over 500.00 on my repair. Great detail , very professional .😀
Excellent outstanding excellent good job man keep it up I like to have really helps a lot cuz I'm actually working on my dash and that kind of stuff and I've been a lot of body working and that kind of stuff but I wanted to do some shaving as on the plastic around where the ignition is and I was trying to figure out exactly what to do and how to do it you just told me so I appreciate it very much I like the way you cut halfway through and you can bend it well you eat it too and no and that's excellent love that stuff I'll take pictures it looks excellent beautiful thank you very much 🇺🇲✌️⚔️
A very informative video, thanks. So happy I pulled a door's worth of stainless steel mesh out of the dump. Hadn't thought of that
I do melting through the groove and then covering it up from both sides by pushing in the plastic, exactly the same way that you do. And I melt stapler pins into the plastic for reinforcement. The mesh idea is a great one. Thanks!!