The stainless steel detent plate is available for purchase here www.packibletool.com/products/makita-detent-plate-stainless-steel-formerly-stenetent Always available, and free shipping!
I am in the process of upgrading my miter saw, and this one is at the top of the list just now. I watched a review of this saw compared to its Bosch equivalent (GCM12 GDL). It was noted that while the miter setting of this saw is fixed in place using metal, the Bosch used plastic for the rod that keeps the miter value in place. Of course steel would be better than aluminium for a saw of this category, and I hope that Makita in the meantime has taken this input to heart.
my issue with the bosch is that the Axial glide system is super inaccurate. Tons of head deflection that makes it inaccurate even when the entire saw has been calibrated
I agree, the detent plate is a definite flaw. Replacements from Makita are $14. The 10" and 12" saw replacement plates are identical. I bought several and keep them in my truck.
How do you think gluing a small piece of nylon onto the bottom of the pin would work, in order to ensure the wear occurs on the pin and not on the detent plate where it matters. Once the nylon is low, remove and glue another?
I have had this saw for almost 2 years and i have no wear like that.. i use it almost every job for trim.. so i am always swinging it back and forth to different angles. Its still as solid as the day i bought it. I feel this is a user error and you are slamming it back and forth . treat your tools right and they will last a lifetime
@@SteneWoodwork 275 person handles their precious precision tools as miners their axes. but I agree, aluminum has no place on precision tools at metal to metal contact parts
@Benmeglei1 still using the same saw now, and every notch is still tight with no slop.. this is not a known issue for this saw ever. . The saw has been amazing and fully recommend
I just bought this saw and I’m considering returning it because the rails are not quite as smooth as I was hoping. Though I don’t believe there is an alignment issue. Do you know of a way of improving the machine in this regard?
Solution: Keep the pin disengaged until you find the angle you want, ie be more gentle to it instead of just letting it slide and snap in. I know it's not ideal, but oh well.
Thanks so much for the video! I was wondering if you would mind to take a measurement? What's the distance from the back of the saw to the fence? With your setup, my problem wouldn't matter much, but my saw is right up against the wall. I had a Festool kapex, but wanted more capacity for cutting timbers, so I bought the Bosch axial glide 12 inch. I really miss the laser of the Festool. The Bosch from the wall to the fence is about 14 inches. Could you tell me what that distance would be for the Makita?? Thanks very much!
Yes, and it does help. But inevitably over time the aluminum is too soft to stay accurate. Every other saw on the market has a stainless steel detent plate, or a cast iron plate. Aluminum was a horrible decision
@@SteneWoodwork there is no way this is accidental. The amount of engineering and materials science that is applied to design something like this is staggering. Which of steel and aluminium "wins" is remedial. Planned obsolescence strikes again.
Cordless is for portability. Why didn't you just get a corded for dedicated workshop??? Save on price and battery usage. How much and where can I get a steel detent? Thanks
Hello and thank you for your video, my saw is having the issue where I can’t swing it back and forth at all even when pressing the tab that supposed to be pressed down and turning the locking mechanism handle piece that locks and unlocks the ability to swing the arm into various degrees… I apologize for not knowing better/proper nomenclature of the parts of the saw but would greatly appreciate any help or advice on what to do to fix this problem. Thanks for taking the time to read this
Sorry for the late reply. Under the blue throat plate there is a bolt, I think around 14mm. Loosen that SLIGHTLY, very slightly, until it moves easily but doesn't cause the table of the saw to be too loose.
Good news your video must’ve inspired Makita to redesign the detents just bought my mitre slide saw and the Detents are completely different from what yours is The new saw I have has vertical grooves approximately 1 inch long much more Beefy thanks 👍🏻
The Makita ls1019L sliding compound mitre saw also has the factory defect of the 10" blade colliding with the inner edge of the right fence when the saw is rotated to the left 60 degree mitre cut position. It appears the inner edge of the right fence needs to be trimmed or filed down to permit the blade to slide past and clear the inner edge of the right fence and not collide (metal-to-metal) with it.
Nice vid. I'm comparing different miter saws right now, and very glad you put up this info, is it's a deal breaker for me. I've had a number of Makita tools over the years, and generally been satisfied with the results. I was doing mostly field work however...now that I am looking to do some cabinet grade work, this kind of engineering gaffe is unacceptable. When you see something so glaring, you have to wonder what other corners did they cut? Nice work!
Thank you! Yeah along with the detent plate the rails are usually out of alignment and the back fences aren't square. It's too bad because it runs so nicely.
Looking around for help with very sluggish movement of the table base. My saw is really hard to move back and forth. Have you ever seen anything on how to fix this problem? One of my coworkers has the same saw and it moves flawlessly. Mine, I have to hold onto the stand to move it. Thanks!! Nice videos and helpful!
Update from 3 months ago: Can we purchase one of your stainless steel replacement indent scales? We exchanged the saw for another of the same model after opening every one of the five they had in stock. The best one still has two issues. The auxiliary fences are poorly aligned and do not have adjustments. The left is skewed 1/32" and both do not line up with the lower fence, no matter what you do. This can be resolved with some machining to the upper aux. fences but the stamped aluminum miter scale is the second issue. You can get a perfect 90 degree cut with alignment error on the 45 degree indent or a perfect 45 cut but then the 0 degree or 90 degree cut is off by 1/32" in 4 inches. Impossible to cut precise crown molding or other casework using the indent scale.
I honestly sold my makita saw and moved on. too many issues to deal with, especially those aux fences. Can't cut crown nested with how much they lean back out of square. My detent plates are for sale on my website stenewoodwork.com right now, I have about 5 left in stock at the moment.
Dewalt uses a stainless steel detent plate. I’m pretty sure they were first with the detent plate idea too. Dewalt DWS 709 12 inch is one of the best saws out there. It also has the shadow line indicator that Dewalt did first as well
I've just bought the 12 inch... Popped it on the stand and it's massive! Is the 10 inch the same over all size? Anyways... I'm having and issue where its cutting square but there's an angle on the back corner. I've adjusted the bevil but it's the same.... It makes like a curl in the timber. It's very noticeable. Annoying I like the saw wandering if the bars flex? I don't know... I may send it back.
I'd send it back, there's no point in trying to hunt down little issues with these saws, if you get a good one, that's great! But if you have a lemon then there's no real way to redeem it
Is the saw good enough to cut out trenches or mortises with flat bases eg 2 inch deep mortises in 4x4 inch timber. Is the depth gauge any good to help doing this task ? Is there any flex in the saw arm when cutting out trenches, do you have flat bottoms. I ask because I need to cut one hundred mortises, so efficient and quick is needed, thanks.
I was just looking through the questions on the 12" version of this saw on the home depot website. Someone asked about this issue and Makita responded acknowledging the issue and saying they have upgraded the part to hardened aluminium. Maybe worth checking yourself if you don't trust Makita but sounds positive to me.
I've spoken with the VP of Makita Canada, along with the Brand Manager for USA. They did update the alloy of the plate, and it is more robust than the original, but folks who have the updated plate are still experiencing the detents wearing out within a few months of professional use. A hobbyist might not notice the wear over several years, but someone who uses the saw daily will see deterioration of the detents on the updated alloy plate.
to me this is a DIY saw, not a professional saw. You are a cheapskate to buy this saw for professional use. I had mine for 4 years now with no problem at all. And like the other dude said, dont abuse your machine and stop trying to make money on this site. I feel this is an advertisement of some sort!
I was planning on getting this saw and one of your detent plates, but it’s showing out of stock on your site. Makita’s site now states: “Replaceable stainless steel miter scale features large and easy-to-read markings”. Do you know if this is an upgrade they made or the same “hardened alloy” as before? Thanks for the video.
I don't have experience with their new plates, but I am in the process of licensing the plate to a manufacturer who can deliver the product faster and more reliably. I am inclined to doubt Makita simply due to their track record over the last few years
@@SteneWoodwork I might pick up the Makita and then plan on getting your plate when it’s available. I’m leaning towards the Makita but also considering the Bosch GCM12SD. Do you have experience with the Bosch?
Thanks for the info and making the video. I need to buy a mitre saw soon. I was going to get the Festool initially, but because of circumstances, I won't be able to have shop I wanted. Also retired now, so don't have the funds. I am looking at the LS1019L. I owned Makita and DeWALT in the past and the dust collection was pretty much useless. Nice that they have the rails at the front of the machine. Always sad when company skimps on the design and turns a good machine into something less.
Good info! Have been looking at adding that very saw to my collection for a while now. I've been a Makita guy for life and it's disappointing to hear they made it sound like they have no plans to improve the design. Their superior design is what normally keeps me coming back. Thank you sir!
the back fences of the saw aren't square, so when you cut at a 45 with the baseboard standing up, it isn't cutting square. Another thing to note, very rarely are outside or inside wall corners 90 degrees in a house...
They finally did it on the new Makita 40v cordless miter saw. I’d still buy yours if I had a Makita because I want the space saving rails but my DeWalt has to wear out a little more before I move over.
@@SteneWoodwork Looking around for more info but reviews of LS002G show a guy sticking a magnet to the ruler...which aluminum won’t be but neither should stainless... weird and frustrating. Happy you made hard wearing ones and hope you continue to make batches.
@@FearsomeWarrior There is a sub-plate under the miter scale that is made of steel, and the magnet is sticking to that. that sub plate is very thin and is what the screw tightens onto when you want to keep the saw at an angle that doesn't have a detent to hold it there. it's called the miter lock plate, and it's part #288 on the parts breakdown diagram
@@SteneWoodwork ahhh. I have a DeWalt miter saw but hope to get the Makita for a stationary tool. The rails sticking out make the DeWalt silly but it’s a good saw. Only hope I can get a plate from you then if you’re still doing a batch every now and then. I kind of did expect Makita to choose the cheaper material. The way of mass manufacturing now. The weight savings barely compares to durability.
The Kapex has a 220v European motor in it, and they tried to make it work on 110v power. While it can still work on 110v, it’s starved for power and that eventually burns out the motor. Many people have had that happen within the warranty period. I sold mine because I didn’t want that much equity tied up in a saw that had the potential of burning up in a few years 🤷🏼♂️
All my other power tools are makita , I was thinking of buying a makita chop saw, after what you have shown me I will be looking for a competitor make, thank for the information
I’ll bet there’s a problem with the rails, the head of the saw isn’t in line so when cutting front to back it slides at an angle. I’d take it back to where you got it and ask for an exchange, or take it to a makita service center
Looking for a large capacity miter saw for a couple of years now. While I am a Makita guy, I just cannot pull the trigger on a Makita miter saw! They continue to market these flawed products despite the internet being full of complaints about soft detent plates and out of alignment rails. I plan to get a Dewalt 780 soon.
Same saw same problem. Had to replace fence also. Any luck with those stainless miter scale plates? I would love to get one? I like this saw a lot but re-squaring is a hassle I’d like to avoid.
great explanation! I've decided to get this Makita LS1018L in the following days and I wonder would it be possible to order this stainless steel detent right the way and have it once the original is worn out. My Q is: where I can order this durable one? Thank you.
Sorry - We need your "Stainless Steel Detent Plate". Do you have one we can purchase and is it more accurate than the stock Makita detent plate? Especially when going making repetitive cuts from 0 to 45 degrees, and back to zero.
I don't have any for sale at the moment, but I'm hoping to do another run here in about a month or so. It is produced to be more accurate and impervious to damage from normal use
I just bought one of these saws and it already has to go back. I never even plugged it in. When I got it everything was loose. The slide rails, the bevel adjustment. Everything was just flopping around in the box. It even looks like at one point the whole saw tried to come through the side of the box. There's scratches, dings and gouges everywhere. There's Globs of Grease falling out of it. As well as the miter adjustment has a few degrees of slop in either Direction no matter which detent. I'm really disappointed I had high hopes for this saw. Of course the place I bought it from won't replace it only return it. I'm trying to get Makita to help me out but so far no luck. It's sad when I can get better quality and customer service for half the price at Harbor Freight. I'm wondering if I should even try getting another one or just go with something else.
@G Khang no lies. it took me about three months of phone calls and trips to a service center. I finally got Makita to send me a new one. The new one has been great. The packaging was completely different it had fitted styrofoam inserts holding everything in place. I just wish it wasn't such a customer service nightmare. Both from the store and Makita. It wasn't until I got through to someone higher up the chain at Makita. That everything you seem to get done like it was no problem.
I purchased this saw as I only will use occasionally. I had a question about your WSTO6 stand in the video. would you recommend that or is there another that you would recommend? Thanks in advance! Jeff
How did that work out for you ?? Im looking to get that model of the DELTA cruzer , now im leaning towards the delta , unless that detent plate works for ya ( how much is it ) ? Thanks
I don’t have experience with the new 40v saws, but I can’t imagine they’d revamp their manufacturing process this far into the game. But there’s always a chance
With a now harder plate material and a hard pin, what now is the frangible part? Parts are engineered for something to be the replaceable wearing part.
How about the LS1221? I have heard great things about that particular saw and no one has mentioned the detent. It seems to be one of makita’s older models maybe that is why?
When making a slide cut in wide stock, I notice sometimes the blade shifts slightly off my angle, if I score my veneer then make the plunge cuts the two cuts are different slightly.... Solvable problem?
Probably an issue with the rails not being aligned, which was common with the first run of saws(it was a packaging/shipping issue). I don’t know how to fix it as I haven’t had that problem
Was in contact with Makita but they have not sorted the issue. They will supply a new one to replace the damaged one but they say it would require very heavy work daily for this to happen. Ok happy with that as Im not a big user but what about the the two issues with the slide rails and the the back plate not square. Any video how to rectify that issue?
I noticed the same thing. Getting looser. One day i bumped into the front of saw and it jumped out of the 0 deg detent making that one really sloppy. Would be interested in one of these plates if theyre for sale.
Whats the deal with the side fences, can I slide them out of the way for bevel cuts? It appears that the fence has to be completely removed before doing a bevel cut.
Curious if you know what material the detent pin is made from. I would be worried that with a harder plate, it would wear the pin out and you would have the same problem on a piece that's harder to replace.
Your video is four years old. Has there been any updates/ improvements by Makita to remedy this problem? I e been eyeing this saw and doing research because I was planning to buy one. Disappointed by Makita on this.
Makita keeps beating around the bush on this issue. They keep "updating the allloy" on the plate, but it is still too soft for regular, accurate use without deforming
My Kapex motor just burnt up the other day. I trimmed out my 3k sq ft house with it. Started a second beach cabin and the motor burnt up. I had an old Makita 10” for about 10 years. I went to Festool after the Makita was stolen. I’m not sure how much the Festool motor will run but I’m heading back to Makita after this review. Why’d you make the switch?
I made the switch because of that possibility with the kapex. The motor burns out due to a lack of power to the motor, which is designed for 220v and was converted to run on 110v in North America. You should be within the 3 year warranty with festool, so they will replace it for free if you are.
Mostly because the saw, though good, wasn’t worth the money it cost. And the added possibility of the motor burning out I didn’t want to hassle with it
Hey man I have the same model! How the heck do I clean it so I can turn it with ease through the detents. It got a little wet sawdust in it one day... thanks man
In the blade well(where the blade goes through the table) there is a bolt. Try loosening that SLIGHTLY, very very little. That should help it to swing better. If not you can take that bolt completely out and pull the top of the saw off of the base, and thoroughly clean between them
I assume the s/steel plate is a total replacement for the original Alu plate. An alternative could be a s/steel plate that goes under the original one.
thanks for sharing this, and for providing a solution instead of just bitching! I'm going to be purchasing the saw today and now I know where to turn for the upgrade
You sold your Kapex for the Makita? I’m debating a Kapex vs the Makita now. I’m in a shop so cordless isn’t an issue. I bought the Makita Tracksaw over the festool and love it. But the detent thing is a big deal.
Hey mate, ive got all makita tools and am trying to choose between the kapex 120 or this makita cordless saw. Both have pretty good dust extraction, the kapex will be more accurate out of the box too but then the kapex isn't cordless and is $1000 more.. plus makita has 5 years warranty compared to festool 3 years. What did you end up going with?
I use them at least 5 to 6 times a week. I just respect my tools. Miter saws are a precisely calibrated piece of equipment and if my boss saw me or my guys just swing the saw to its angle and let the handle snap in place he would fire me first. It only takes a few extra seconds to do it this way. We have saws that we have only calibrated once and they are 15 plus yrs old and never had to replace any parts except the blade.
Great review! Thanks for your knowledge. Do you think the detent plate would hold up for the occasional user? maybe 2-3 times per year for occasional crown, some base board shelves ect? It sound like a good saw. Thanks Jeff
Mine lasted for continuous use over 4 months. I think it would hold up fine for occasional use, and if it does wear out you could just swap it for a new one
I’m going from a Kapex 120 and looking at this as a review after my Kaoex burnt a motor out after only 3 years, piece of crap! Disappointed to see that this saw also has problems. Have you got a stainless version available yet, in the uk?
Hi, nice to have the idea before i buy it. Do you have a cad file about the form? I live in europe, so maybe easier to find a stealworker around me. Thanks, Bence
Hey that’s awesome! I think they do make crown stops, but I doubt they’re very good. The best ones are shop made. Check out @carpenterone3 on Instagram, he has a great compact miter wing build. He’s very “jig smart”
There is a screw at the middle of the bed beneath the green inserts, loosen it slightly and it should fix the problem. When I mean slightly, I mean about 1/8 or less of a turn
Hi, I just purchased this saw and like it so far. My only issue at the moment is the the upper removable fence is not flush with the lower. No adjustment will fix this. Anyone else have this issue?
Actually, there is an adjustment for the upper fence. If you look at the channel it sets in you'll see what looks like a rubber bumper. There is a setscrew behind it.
@@yrralyou Hi Larry, I'm well aware of the set screw. I ended up filing down the pin of the upper fence so it would sit closer and flush with the lower assembly.
@@rickfrey6944 Well I don't understand since there is no pin on the upper fence. And the fence is maybe 1/16 is narrower than the channel, but glad you got it flush.
@@yrralyou Hi Larry, I was referring to the guide pin on the upper fence that goes down into the lower fence. I filled the front & sides down so now the upper fence is flush with the lower if the makes sense. I Also had to file down the Aluminum tab on the back of the upper fence where the adjustment screw touches.
Hello John. I have a Makita LS1016L for around 10 years. Excellent tool. Now I have a problem: I can't move the lock lever (part 223 in manual breakdown), miter lock plate (228), grip 50 (220). I vacumm all around but seem is not dust or residues of wood that blocked the machine. Do you have any observation around? Thank you
The stainless steel detent plate is available for purchase here
www.packibletool.com/products/makita-detent-plate-stainless-steel-formerly-stenetent
Always available, and free shipping!
Ordered mine arrived today - installed it and it is brilliant. Thanks so much - I recommend this upgrade - saw is bang on once again. CHEERS!
Are you getting more in stock?
@@adimeshort they’ll be available soon!
Rvs is not a good material too. I think a hard steel like chrome or something else is better
I am in the process of upgrading my miter saw, and this one is at the top of the list just now. I watched a review of this saw compared to its Bosch equivalent (GCM12 GDL). It was noted that while the miter setting of this saw is fixed in place using metal, the Bosch used plastic for the rod that keeps the miter value in place. Of course steel would be better than aluminium for a saw of this category, and I hope that Makita in the meantime has taken this input to heart.
my issue with the bosch is that the Axial glide system is super inaccurate. Tons of head deflection that makes it inaccurate even when the entire saw has been calibrated
I agree, the detent plate is a definite flaw.
Replacements from Makita are $14.
The 10" and 12" saw replacement plates are identical.
I bought several and keep them in my truck.
How do you think gluing a small piece of nylon onto the bottom of the pin would work, in order to ensure the wear occurs on the pin and not on the detent plate where it matters. Once the nylon is low, remove and glue another?
I have had this saw for almost 2 years and i have no wear like that.. i use it almost every job for trim.. so i am always swinging it back and forth to different angles. Its still as solid as the day i bought it. I feel this is a user error and you are slamming it back and forth . treat your tools right and they will last a lifetime
The 275 people who have bought my plate had the same problem as me, and more besides. It’s a well known issue with this saw variant
@@SteneWoodwork 275 person handles their precious precision tools as miners their axes. but I agree, aluminum has no place on precision tools at metal to metal contact parts
Hey it’s been 3 years since you wrote that. Is your Makita still going strong?
@Benmeglei1 still using the same saw now, and every notch is still tight with no slop.. this is not a known issue for this saw ever. . The saw has been amazing and fully recommend
Depends on where it was made / batch of components from supplier/s.
I own several miter saws. So far this is my favorite. Every other brand has other issues that are an annoyance also.
I brought one'' noticed it straight away.. was constantly squaring it.. been using my old one.. pissed me off ... now I know the problem thanks..
I just bought this saw and I’m considering returning it because the rails are not quite as smooth as I was hoping. Though I don’t believe there is an alignment issue. Do you know of a way of improving the machine in this regard?
Solution: Keep the pin disengaged until you find the angle you want, ie be more gentle to it instead of just letting it slide and snap in. I know it's not ideal, but oh well.
Ideal is the stainless steel plate that I developed several years ago. Over 1000 sold and no issues.
I just bought the LS1219L and am unable to set the miter angle. When it is square at 0 degrees, it is off at 45. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I will be making detent plate using stainless. Will be posting here once its done
Did you make it yet?
I’d love one
They’re available on stenewoodwork.com right now 👍🏻
Stene Woodwork i dont see it on your website or Amazon page
HazardSports in the store section on stenewoodwork.com
Thanks so much for the video! I was wondering if you would mind to take a measurement? What's the distance from the back of the saw to the fence? With your setup, my problem wouldn't matter much, but my saw is right up against the wall. I had a Festool kapex, but wanted more capacity for cutting timbers, so I bought the Bosch axial glide 12 inch. I really miss the laser of the Festool. The Bosch from the wall to the fence is about 14 inches. Could you tell me what that distance would be for the Makita?? Thanks very much!
The wear on the detent plate could be vastly reduced by depressing the lever when moving the saw releasing the pressure on the plunger?
Yes, and it does help. But inevitably over time the aluminum is too soft to stay accurate. Every other saw on the market has a stainless steel detent plate, or a cast iron plate. Aluminum was a horrible decision
Agreed,a poor choice of material indeed.
@@SteneWoodwork there is no way this is accidental. The amount of engineering and materials science that is applied to design something like this is staggering. Which of steel and aluminium "wins" is remedial. Planned obsolescence strikes again.
Cordless is for portability. Why didn't you just get a corded for dedicated workshop??? Save on price and battery usage.
How much and where can I get a steel detent?
Thanks
Hello and thank you for your video, my saw is having the issue where I can’t swing it back and forth at all even when pressing the tab that supposed to be pressed down and turning the locking mechanism handle piece that locks and unlocks the ability to swing the arm into various degrees… I apologize for not knowing better/proper nomenclature of the parts of the saw but would greatly appreciate any help or advice on what to do to fix this problem.
Thanks for taking the time to read this
Sorry for the late reply. Under the blue throat plate there is a bolt, I think around 14mm. Loosen that SLIGHTLY, very slightly, until it moves easily but doesn't cause the table of the saw to be too loose.
Good news your video must’ve inspired Makita to redesign the detents just bought my mitre slide saw and the Detents are completely different from what yours is The new saw I have has vertical grooves approximately 1 inch long much more Beefy thanks 👍🏻
curious which model did you get?
The Makita ls1019L sliding compound mitre saw also has the factory defect of the 10" blade colliding with the inner edge of the right fence when the saw is rotated to the left 60 degree mitre cut position. It appears the inner edge of the right fence needs to be trimmed or filed down to permit the blade to slide past and clear the inner edge of the right fence and not collide (metal-to-metal) with it.
Nice vid. I'm comparing different miter saws right now, and very glad you put up this info, is it's a deal breaker for me. I've had a number of Makita tools over the years, and generally been satisfied with the results. I was doing mostly field work however...now that I am looking to do some cabinet grade work, this kind of engineering gaffe is unacceptable. When you see something so glaring, you have to wonder what other corners did they cut? Nice work!
Thank you! Yeah along with the detent plate the rails are usually out of alignment and the back fences aren't square. It's too bad because it runs so nicely.
Looking around for help with very sluggish movement of the table base. My saw is really hard to move back and forth. Have you ever seen anything on how to fix this problem? One of my coworkers has the same saw and it moves flawlessly. Mine, I have to hold onto the stand to move it. Thanks!! Nice videos and helpful!
Me too...takes 2 people to move the miter angle. Did you find a way to remedy?
There’s a bolt underneath the blue throat plates, slightly loosen it, it will make the table easier to turn
Thank you!
Update from 3 months ago: Can we purchase one of your stainless steel replacement indent scales? We exchanged the saw for another of the same model after opening every one of the five they had in stock. The best one still has two issues. The auxiliary fences are poorly aligned and do not have adjustments. The left is skewed 1/32" and both do not line up with the lower fence, no matter what you do. This can be resolved with some machining to the upper aux. fences but the stamped aluminum miter scale is the second issue. You can get a perfect 90 degree cut with alignment error on the 45 degree indent or a perfect 45 cut but then the 0 degree or 90 degree cut is off by 1/32" in 4 inches. Impossible to cut precise crown molding or other casework using the indent scale.
I honestly sold my makita saw and moved on. too many issues to deal with, especially those aux fences. Can't cut crown nested with how much they lean back out of square. My detent plates are for sale on my website stenewoodwork.com right now, I have about 5 left in stock at the moment.
@@SteneWoodwork Which miter saw do you use now, since you got rid of your Makita?
@@jerrydufresne5173 The best saw I've found has been a Hitachi C10FSH, made in Japan. They can sometimes be found on craigslist or marketplace
Do you know if this will also work on the 8.5" cordless. I'm guessing that tool probably uses a different sized part?
The 10” and the 12” detent plates are the same, but I’m going to wager the 8 1/2 is a different base
My upper and lower fence is not in alignment. The upper fence sits back from the lower fence by about .01 and there is no way to adjust that. 🤷🏼♂️
Wondering how you went with the stainless steel detent plate for the LS1019L?
Did you get it fabricated?
How did it perform?
Available at the link in the pinned comment. Over 600 sold world wide, and not one return
Good video mate. Is that a Total Tools hat you were wearing? I thought they were only in Australia
Yeah it is! One of the store owners sent some with some stickers to me back in the day
Dewalt uses a stainless steel detent plate. I’m pretty sure they were first with the detent plate idea too. Dewalt DWS 709 12 inch is one of the best saws out there. It also has the shadow line indicator that Dewalt did first as well
I’m glad I watched because the Makita was going to be on my bench soon but now maybe not. Thanksz
I've just bought the 12 inch... Popped it on the stand and it's massive! Is the 10 inch the same over all size? Anyways... I'm having and issue where its cutting square but there's an angle on the back corner. I've adjusted the bevil but it's the same.... It makes like a curl in the timber. It's very noticeable. Annoying I like the saw wandering if the bars flex? I don't know... I may send it back.
I'd send it back, there's no point in trying to hunt down little issues with these saws, if you get a good one, that's great! But if you have a lemon then there's no real way to redeem it
Is the saw good enough to cut out trenches or mortises with flat bases eg 2 inch deep mortises in 4x4 inch timber. Is the depth gauge any good to help doing this task ? Is there any flex in the saw arm when cutting out trenches, do you have flat bottoms. I ask because I need to cut one hundred mortises, so efficient and quick is needed, thanks.
It does all of those things very well, but a router would be a much faster and more efficient method for doing that kind of work
I was just looking through the questions on the 12" version of this saw on the home depot website. Someone asked about this issue and Makita responded acknowledging the issue and saying they have upgraded the part to hardened aluminium. Maybe worth checking yourself if you don't trust Makita but sounds positive to me.
I've spoken with the VP of Makita Canada, along with the Brand Manager for USA. They did update the alloy of the plate, and it is more robust than the original, but folks who have the updated plate are still experiencing the detents wearing out within a few months of professional use. A hobbyist might not notice the wear over several years, but someone who uses the saw daily will see deterioration of the detents on the updated alloy plate.
to me this is a DIY saw, not a professional saw. You are a cheapskate to buy this saw for professional use. I had mine for 4 years now with no problem at all. And like the other dude said, dont abuse your machine and stop trying to make money on this site. I feel this is an advertisement of some sort!
I was planning on getting this saw and one of your detent plates, but it’s showing out of stock on your site. Makita’s site now states: “Replaceable stainless steel miter scale features large and easy-to-read markings”.
Do you know if this is an upgrade they made or the same “hardened alloy” as before?
Thanks for the video.
I don't have experience with their new plates, but I am in the process of licensing the plate to a manufacturer who can deliver the product faster and more reliably. I am inclined to doubt Makita simply due to their track record over the last few years
@@SteneWoodwork I might pick up the Makita and then plan on getting your plate when it’s available. I’m leaning towards the Makita but also considering the Bosch GCM12SD. Do you have experience with the Bosch?
@@jeffschumacher452 Hi, I am planning to adquire Makita or Bosh, what could be your recommendation?
Thanks for the info and making the video. I need to buy a mitre saw soon. I was going to get the Festool initially, but because of circumstances, I won't be able to have shop I wanted. Also retired now, so don't have the funds. I am looking at the LS1019L. I owned Makita and DeWALT in the past and the dust collection was pretty much useless. Nice that they have the rails at the front of the machine. Always sad when company skimps on the design and turns a good machine into something less.
Terrific identifying of a significant shortcoming with the saw. Did you complete design work/commissioning of your stainless detent plate?
Designed, manufactured, and sold over 600. Available now at packibletool.com
Good info! Have been looking at adding that very saw to my collection for a while now. I've been a Makita guy for life and it's disappointing to hear they made it sound like they have no plans to improve the design. Their superior design is what normally keeps me coming back. Thank you sir!
My makita mitre saw is not cutting a straight 45 mitre? my baseboard ends up wider at the bottom by 3/8" than to top. Any ideas why?
the back fences of the saw aren't square, so when you cut at a 45 with the baseboard standing up, it isn't cutting square. Another thing to note, very rarely are outside or inside wall corners 90 degrees in a house...
They finally did it on the new Makita 40v cordless miter saw. I’d still buy yours if I had a Makita because I want the space saving rails but my DeWalt has to wear out a little more before I move over.
40v saws have the same soft allow as the previous models. Nothing has changed
@@SteneWoodwork Looking around for more info but reviews of LS002G show a guy sticking a magnet to the ruler...which aluminum won’t be but neither should stainless... weird and frustrating. Happy you made hard wearing ones and hope you continue to make batches.
@@FearsomeWarrior There is a sub-plate under the miter scale that is made of steel, and the magnet is sticking to that. that sub plate is very thin and is what the screw tightens onto when you want to keep the saw at an angle that doesn't have a detent to hold it there. it's called the miter lock plate, and it's part #288 on the parts breakdown diagram
@@SteneWoodwork ahhh. I have a DeWalt miter saw but hope to get the Makita for a stationary tool. The rails sticking out make the DeWalt silly but it’s a good saw. Only hope I can get a plate from you then if you’re still doing a batch every now and then. I kind of did expect Makita to choose the cheaper material. The way of mass manufacturing now. The weight savings barely compares to durability.
BIG QUESTION - Does the 12 Makita have clips that allow you to cut crown molding standing up, as the Dewalt compound Miter does???
both the 10" and the 12" have auxiliary crown stops that can be purchased
Why did you change from the Kapex? I've been looking at the DSX 10" or 12" but there is no crown stop option like my Dewalt or Bocsh.
The Kapex has a 220v European motor in it, and they tried to make it work on 110v power. While it can still work on 110v, it’s starved for power and that eventually burns out the motor. Many people have had that happen within the warranty period. I sold mine because I didn’t want that much equity tied up in a saw that had the potential of burning up in a few years 🤷🏼♂️
All my other power tools are makita , I was thinking of buying a makita chop saw, after what you have shown me I will be looking for a competitor make, thank for the information
I have been running the Milwaukee 12" Cordless mitersaw, and it has been great. Accurate and powerful, along with a great battery life
Hey there ! Recently purchased the Makita Ls1219l, but having square problems,, it's not cutting straight when sliding beyond 6". Any advice.?
I’ll bet there’s a problem with the rails, the head of the saw isn’t in line so when cutting front to back it slides at an angle. I’d take it back to where you got it and ask for an exchange, or take it to a makita service center
Is your stainless steel replacement plate available for purchase?
Yup, on Stenewoodwork.com. I just sent out a order, and we are in pre-order for the next batch
@@SteneWoodwork Great! I'd like to order one please too.
Looking for a large capacity miter saw for a couple of years now. While I am a Makita guy, I just cannot pull the trigger on a Makita miter saw! They continue to market these flawed products despite the internet being full of complaints about soft detent plates and out of alignment rails. I plan to get a Dewalt 780 soon.
Same saw same problem. Had to replace fence also. Any luck with those stainless miter scale plates? I would love to get one? I like this saw a lot but re-squaring is a hassle I’d like to avoid.
They are available for pre-order at stenewoodwork.com!
great explanation!
I've decided to get this Makita LS1018L in the following days and I wonder would it be possible to order this stainless steel detent right the way and have it once the original is worn out. My Q is: where I can order this durable one? Thank you.
My plate doesn’t fit the older model makita saws, just the new ones. Sorry
Sorry - We need your "Stainless Steel Detent Plate". Do you have one we can purchase and is it more accurate than the stock Makita detent plate? Especially when going making repetitive cuts from 0 to 45 degrees, and back to zero.
I don't have any for sale at the moment, but I'm hoping to do another run here in about a month or so. It is produced to be more accurate and impervious to damage from normal use
Hi. Good review! Just wondering how crown cuts will work on that saw. Do you always need to take the top section of the fence off?
Sorry, I meant a bevel cut :-)
Yeah every bevel needs to have the stops removed 👍🏻
I just bought one of these saws and it already has to go back. I never even plugged it in. When I got it everything was loose. The slide rails, the bevel adjustment. Everything was just flopping around in the box. It even looks like at one point the whole saw tried to come through the side of the box. There's scratches, dings and gouges everywhere. There's Globs of Grease falling out of it. As well as the miter adjustment has a few degrees of slop in either Direction no matter which detent. I'm really disappointed I had high hopes for this saw. Of course the place I bought it from won't replace it only return it. I'm trying to get Makita to help me out but so far no luck. It's sad when I can get better quality and customer service for half the price at Harbor Freight. I'm wondering if I should even try getting another one or just go with something else.
@G Khang no lies. it took me about three months of phone calls and trips to a service center. I finally got Makita to send me a new one. The new one has been great. The packaging was completely different it had fitted styrofoam inserts holding everything in place. I just wish it wasn't such a customer service nightmare. Both from the store and Makita. It wasn't until I got through to someone higher up the chain at Makita. That everything you seem to get done like it was no problem.
Hi Stene
I went to your site and can't find the order button, so how do I get to order?. Thank you in advance.
its available now in the "stene store" on my website
I purchased this saw as I only will use occasionally. I had a question about your WSTO6 stand in the video. would you recommend that or is there another that you would recommend? Thanks in advance! Jeff
I recommend the Dewalt compact stand, it’s much more durable
How did that work out for you ?? Im looking to get that model of the DELTA cruzer , now im leaning towards the delta , unless that detent plate works for ya ( how much is it ) ? Thanks
The detent plates have been great, we’ve sold 120 of them so far. $110 canadian which is roughly $80 US dollars
Hello, would like to know what are other issue, even if you solved them that could be interresting to list them and how to solve them
I hope to make a few videos showing that in a couple weeks
Great video. How did the detent plates turn out. I'm looking at investing in this saw.
They've turned out great! Sold over 550 of them, there's one on every continent in the world other than antarctica! No issues so far
Is this still the same issue on the saw? I’m debating on this one or the 40volt. Any issues with the laser ? I hear the shadow kind is better .
I don’t have experience with the new 40v saws, but I can’t imagine they’d revamp their manufacturing process this far into the game. But there’s always a chance
Hey stene would the stainless steel detent plate you got made fit the 12" version too, and do you post to Australia
I’ll send it anywhere, and yes it fits the 12”
With a now harder plate material and a hard pin, what now is the frangible part? Parts are engineered for something to be the replaceable wearing part.
The reference pin on the makita saw is made of hardened tool steel, I doubt it will wear out any time soon. The stainless plate holds up great too
@@SteneWoodwork Great! A Makita will eventually replace my 20yo 10” Craftsman. Thanks for responding.
How about the LS1221? I have heard great things about that particular saw and no one has mentioned the detent. It seems to be one of makita’s older models maybe that is why?
All the new makita rail front mitersaws have the same detent plate regardless of blade diameter, and they are all made of an aluminum alloy
When making a slide cut in wide stock, I notice sometimes the blade shifts slightly off my angle, if I score my veneer then make the plunge cuts the two cuts are different slightly.... Solvable problem?
Probably an issue with the rails not being aligned, which was common with the first run of saws(it was a packaging/shipping issue). I don’t know how to fix it as I haven’t had that problem
Did you find a solution for this, I have the same issue. Thx
I have the 12" model of this saw. I'd be interested in getting a stainless detent plate. Anyway I can get one from you?
They’re available on stenewoodwork.com right now 👍🏻
I'm thinking on getting one of these saws...is there still a way to get one of those stainless detent plates? Thanks
I’m working with a company who is interested in selling these independently, so hopefully that can happen soon
@@SteneWoodwork you should try custom fabricating solutions, they have a channel on TH-cam, guy is a genius.
John: Thank you for a solution to the indent plate. How difficult is it to replace the plate? Will your plate include instructions?
It's very straightforward and simple, just a bit finicky to get it calibrated just right
Was the issue with the Indent Plates ever rectified by Makita?
Was in contact with Makita but they have not sorted the issue. They will supply a new one to replace the damaged one but they say it would require very heavy work daily for this to happen. Ok happy with that as Im not a big user but what about the the two issues with the slide rails and the the back plate not square. Any video how to rectify that issue?
Steve, do you think your SS plate will make the detention pin the new “problem part?”
3 years in, hasn't happened yet
I noticed the same thing. Getting looser. One day i bumped into the front of saw and it jumped out of the 0 deg detent making that one really sloppy. Would be interested in one of these plates if theyre for sale.
They’re open for pre order right now on my website stenewoodwork.com!
Whats the deal with the side fences, can I slide them out of the way for bevel cuts? It appears that the fence has to be completely removed before doing a bevel cut.
No they slide out from the top, just turn the wing screw at the back and lift up
Enjoyed your informative video.
I need to replace my laser. Any tips/advice. Thank you in advance.
Rodney.
Curious if you know what material the detent pin is made from. I would be worried that with a harder plate, it would wear the pin out and you would have the same problem on a piece that's harder to replace.
That is true
hi, between makita ls1219 and kapex festool, which is best for you?
Hitachi C10FSH, or a Dewalt 780
Your video is four years old. Has there been any updates/ improvements by Makita to remedy this problem? I e been eyeing this saw and doing research because I was planning to buy one. Disappointed by Makita on this.
Makita keeps beating around the bush on this issue. They keep "updating the allloy" on the plate, but it is still too soft for regular, accurate use without deforming
Great initiative. Can you send or information on the upgraded plate when you get them?
I’ll post a video announcing they are for sale when I do 😉
They’re open for pre order right now on my website stenewoodwork.com!
Thanks for taking the bull by the horns. I appreciate it! Great work!
My Kapex motor just burnt up the other day. I trimmed out my 3k sq ft house with it. Started a second beach cabin and the motor burnt up. I had an old Makita 10” for about 10 years. I went to Festool after the Makita was stolen. I’m not sure how much the Festool motor will run but I’m heading back to Makita after this review. Why’d you make the switch?
I made the switch because of that possibility with the kapex. The motor burns out due to a lack of power to the motor, which is designed for 220v and was converted to run on 110v in North America. You should be within the 3 year warranty with festool, so they will replace it for free if you are.
3.5 years. Not covered. $400-$500 repair😡
Wow that is horrible!!
just ordered a detent plate. hopefully it will arrive soon :D
why did you switch from a Kapex to this? motor died? also hows dust extraction compared to kapex. on the fence
Mostly because the saw, though good, wasn’t worth the money it cost. And the added possibility of the motor burning out I didn’t want to hassle with it
Is there a way that you can make the back fenc square?
not very easily, and it sounds like your's is waaaaay out, you may need to cut the base on the flat and bevel the saw to get accurate cuts
Can this mitersaw be used for aluminum cutting
it can, but there are most likely better options out there
Just bought my 1217L variant today in Sydney, that's 3 years on, I wonder if they fixed this issue?
Great vid, thanks 👍
They have updated the alloy, but it hasn't fixed the problem unfortunately
Hey man I have the same model! How the heck do I clean it so I can turn it with ease through the detents. It got a little wet sawdust in it one day... thanks man
In the blade well(where the blade goes through the table) there is a bolt. Try loosening that SLIGHTLY, very very little. That should help it to swing better. If not you can take that bolt completely out and pull the top of the saw off of the base, and thoroughly clean between them
I assume the s/steel plate is a total replacement for the original Alu plate. An alternative could be a s/steel plate that goes under the original one.
This is GOLD!!! Thanks for the heads up. Cheers.
You bet!
Only one year warranty , Does Makita stand by their products?
thanks for sharing this, and for providing a solution instead of just bitching! I'm going to be purchasing the saw today and now I know where to turn for the upgrade
I have one ready for you when you do 👍🏻
You sold your Kapex for the Makita? I’m debating a Kapex vs the Makita now. I’m in a shop so cordless isn’t an issue. I bought the Makita Tracksaw over the festool and love it. But the detent thing is a big deal.
Hey mate, ive got all makita tools and am trying to choose between the kapex 120 or this makita cordless saw. Both have pretty good dust extraction, the kapex will be more accurate out of the box too but then the kapex isn't cordless and is $1000 more.. plus makita has 5 years warranty compared to festool 3 years.
What did you end up going with?
Well dont let the pin snap into the detent ring. Squeeze the trigger or disengage the detent pin and wont wear the ring out.
You’re comment clearly shows that you have never used a mitersaw in a professional capacity
I use them at least 5 to 6 times a week. I just respect my tools. Miter saws are a precisely calibrated piece of equipment and if my boss saw me or my guys just swing the saw to its angle and let the handle snap in place he would fire me first. It only takes a few extra seconds to do it this way. We have saws that we have only calibrated once and they are 15 plus yrs old and never had to replace any parts except the blade.
Well that’s wonderful 👍🏻
Great review! Thanks for your knowledge. Do you think the detent plate would hold up for the occasional user? maybe 2-3 times per year for occasional crown, some base board shelves ect? It sound like a good saw. Thanks Jeff
Mine lasted for continuous use over 4 months. I think it would hold up fine for occasional use, and if it does wear out you could just swap it for a new one
@@SteneWoodwork Thanks! Your videos and updates are awesome!!
good video thanks. will you be selling the stainless detent plate? also i'd be interested to hear you talk more about this saw vs. the kapex.
They’re available on my website right now 👍🏻
Did the new plate work? If so where can I buy one? Thanks
They are available on my website, stenewoodwork.com. They are great!
Stene Woodwork do you ship to EU?
Yes it did! And they are for sale now on my website stenewoodwork.com and yes we ship to the EU
I’m going from a Kapex 120 and looking at this as a review after my Kaoex burnt a motor out after only 3 years, piece of crap! Disappointed to see that this saw also has problems. Have you got a stainless version available yet, in the uk?
Will you be having more stainless steel detentes availible soon
There are 7 left on the website right now, stenewoodwork.com
It cuts perfect bevels when I tip it sideways but it’s harder to cut short pieces that way.
When you tip it, that's called "beveling". my tip is to cut the bevel first, then cut it for length. Much safer that way
Might a solution be to produce a few nylon pins and replace the pins periodically?
Maybe, but I’ve already developed and sold over 250 plates and they have been working very well so far
Hi, nice to have the idea before i buy it. Do you have a cad file about the form? I live in europe, so maybe easier to find a stealworker around me. Thanks, Bence
Sorry man no I don’t have the CAD file, the manufacturer is the one who keeps that 🤷🏼♂️
thanks anyway! Probably i will make one :) best
Ever get the plate replaced with stainless steel?
Bought the plate from you. It's perfect. Do they make crown stops for this saw?
Hey that’s awesome! I think they do make crown stops, but I doubt they’re very good. The best ones are shop made. Check out @carpenterone3 on Instagram, he has a great compact miter wing build. He’s very “jig smart”
I have the 1219L, does anyone have problems with the table being really stiff and difficult to move?
There is a screw at the middle of the bed beneath the green inserts, loosen it slightly and it should fix the problem. When I mean slightly, I mean about 1/8 or less of a turn
Hey, Makita says in their advertisement and specifications that the plate is a replaceable stainless steel plate. Is this incorrect?
I’ve never seen a stainless one on one of their saws, so I don’t know 🤷🏼♂️
i asked a few days ago and they said it is hardened aluminum...
Hi, I just purchased this saw and like it so far. My only issue at the moment is the the upper removable fence is not flush with the lower. No adjustment will fix this.
Anyone else have this issue?
Actually, there is an adjustment for the upper fence. If you look at the channel it sets in you'll see what looks like a rubber bumper. There is a setscrew behind it.
@@yrralyou Hi Larry, I'm well aware of the set screw. I ended up filing down the pin of the upper fence so it would sit closer and flush with the lower assembly.
@@rickfrey6944 Well I don't understand since there is no pin on the upper fence. And the fence is maybe 1/16 is narrower than the channel, but glad you got it flush.
@@yrralyou Hi Larry, I was referring to the guide pin on the upper fence that goes down into the lower fence. I filled the front & sides down so now the upper fence is flush with the lower if the makes sense.
I Also had to file down the Aluminum tab on the back of the upper fence where the adjustment screw touches.
Why did you go to that from the Kapex?
table wasn't flat, back fences weren't in line, and the motor was very underpowered
excellent content and problem solving !!
Glad you think so!
How can I get a stainless replacement from you.
Head over to stenewoodwork.com!
Hello John. I have a Makita LS1016L for around 10 years. Excellent tool. Now I have a problem: I can't move the lock lever (part 223 in manual breakdown), miter lock plate (228), grip 50 (220). I vacumm all around but seem is not dust or residues of wood that blocked the machine. Do you have any observation around? Thank you
Hi Mauricio, unfortunately I have no experience with that model saw. Sorry I can’t be of assistance
I'm thinking about buying a miter saw. Which one do you suggest?
Many say that the DeWalt DW716 is a solid contender, dewalt saws tent to be fairly solid.