Nice! I have the 36v version. I love the cut capacity of these saws. On the job today I cut 5-1/4” baseboard vertically. You just have to flip the metal stop located at the rear of the top rail to maximize the vertical capacity. Saves a ton of time not having to cut baseboard flat on the table.
I've had the Bosch since 2018, and the biggest problem with the glide arm is that there is a fair bit more play than you'd find on a traditional saw with rails. It is lousy at trenching because of this, and I don't like doing bevel cuts with it. Not to say it can't do those things, but that they are compromised.
I’ve had my LS1019L for about 2-3 years now. It appears from yours that they have made a slight change to the dust collection hoses. On yours, the vacuum plugs into the top port which then splits off to the back (bottom) port. On my Makita, it is just the opposite, as my Festool extractor plugs into the port at the bottom back. That has actually caused me problems as I have to pull the LS1019L out a couple of inches from the wall to get my vac hooked up. FWIW, I just bought a 3D printed 45° adapter that works with both your saw as well as mine. It has helped my hookup, and it should help yours as well.
Thanks for sharing! I’m glad mine has the port on top, but I’m a bit surprised they didn’t make it usable with the saw flat against a wall. I’ll definitely be picking up a 45 degree adapter!
I got the new Makita 12" 40v version and love it its very accurate out of the box and even with extended head out I found has no deflection , great mitre saw
@OscyJack- if you are applying a normal pressure to cut a lumber in normal motion there is actually no deflection, but if you are purposely trying to bend it then of course it will deflect , I am comparing to red and yellow 😉 ones that I owned and the deflection was vary bad , I dont own any other makita tools but I like this saw finally found something true and accurate
@@agent7agent759 that's awesome to hear. I'm currently out to replace my 10" non slider single bevel. I am torn between all the options to be honest. And I'm usually a ketchup or mustard guy. Top of the list is Makita, Bosch ATM but then again mustard is only $399
If you torn in between the yellow and red , I had better experience with the yellow , the red is the worst, if you don't mind the rails to be extended at the back then for the price you mentioned it's probably the 778 model or 780 , check the newest cordless one is out 12" 60v , it's promising
The fact the Makita locks with metal detents is making me want to get this. I hate my 10" sliding Metabo (it uses plastic detents which cause slop and the rail system has slop too).
FYI - Dec 2023 the Makita is on Amazon (Canada) for $829. I wish it was $500!! Looks like my 15 year old Craftsman will have to do for a bit. Great review - thanks!
Re the makita fence, I believe you can remove then flip it over to get the high support for angled cuts that you describe. Edited! I bought one and no you can’t. Must have been on another model but I’m really pleased with the saw. It’s solid and accurate
Don’t know if 10” Bosch is different to 12”. A prob on my 12”, is when I have the dept adjuster on, the dept is very much related to the downward pressure on the saw, I can easily get an extra mm or two by pushing down a little harder. Doesn’t suit me at all, I lost my right arm almost at the shoulder, I’ve made a handle extension so I can operate it by hooking my stump over it, that handle ext also keeps the saw on all the time, I turn on and off with a foot pedal switch.
I noticed the same thing the first time I used the depth adjuster on my 10" Bosch. I think it comes down to technique -- I get better results when I use a slower and smoother motion in bringing down the handle so the depth adjustment screw just kisses the stop plate.
I had the 12” Bosch and the glide system was a work of art however there was a substantial amount of play in it relative to the other mitre saws I have had. I also found the start up on the Bosch was unnecessarily rough for the quality of the saw.
I just bought the Bosch yesterday, and I think I might return it, especially if I can find a Makita for the same price like you did. The deflection is inexcusable. And also, you said it : the handle is big beyond comparison! It really makes for a cumbersome use that sorta makes you want to reassure your hand just before hitting the stock to cut.
Too bad that you ran into the same issue. I know quite a few people with great Glides, but it’s been interesting to see other folks note their issues in the video. The Makita remains great for me with only minor issues at full extension.
@@MasonWoodshop Thanks for your answer, it made me realize that I forgot to end my comment with a congrats for your video. You really did compare two comparables…. Also : salutations from Montreal.
fellow ontario woodworker, sarnia is home for me. i like your channel! i'm not a fan of miter saws for fine woodworking, great for trim work in the house though. i always use a sled on my tablesaw(or my jessum mitre guage). a jigsaw at the lumber stack works for rough cuts for length
I still refuse to use a table saw after seeing so many people get mangled by them, many of them seasoned professionals. I'm finally considering using a sled for exactly what you're talkin about, surely they have to be much safer right?! You've got the thick wood wall in case it flings a piece and then you're using a clamp instead of your fingers so you're not even getting your hands close. I've got a small dewalt jobsite table saw chilling under the table here hmm
@@johnnycorn7225get a sawstop. But more importantly: LEARN how to use a saw safely, and NEVER become complacent. Those “seasoned professionals” you mentioned, were complacent/over confident, and gambled with fate…and lost! Not very professional after all. There is no reason to have you hand anywhere near close enough to the blade, that getting cut should be a risk. Use push sticks, grippers, hold down clamps, hell…even a pencil eraser, to hold material. I’m an airline pilot, and if i was to lose a hand, it would greatly jeopardize my multi-million dollar career, which is why i use Sawstops. But that is just a precaution. There is no tech that replaces good, safe practices. TH-cam is FULL of information that can help you go about it safely.
@@harveymanfrantinsingin7373 I learned while working in a factory you can't let your guard down for a nanosecond when dealing with these high-powered machines!! I've got a 14 inch jet sfx bandsaw on the way and I'm using the bow extender fence with it as well with feather boards. Still haven't built the table saw sled but it's coming!! My progress might be slow but I am nitpicking every step along the way!!
@ yessir, that’s correct! Take your time, and do what you’re comfortable with. I used to build all of my sleds, but i actually just bought the incra sled. Mostly because if you use it correctly, your hand is never in line with the blade. Plus i use it with the 1000HD miter gauge, so being able to set angles does to the single degree, quickly and 100% repeatable, without a bunch of BS, is awesome. Lol, I’ve done woodworking while broke in life, and I’ve done while i have money. I’ll take the money every time! 😂 Edit: i also just got the Bow extender. Nice product!
I had one of the original versions of the makita saw. And like some reviews, I COULD NOT get the the blade square. You have to mess with the two guide rails to try and get the blade at 90 degrees. And I just simply couldn’t get it to be at 90 degrees. Also at full extension it seemed to always be off mo matter what I did. So for woodworking, I went back to dewalt and just made room for it. I had a small shop as well. I hope they improved it
Thanks for telling us all we needed to know. I'm looking to change out my 12" Makita (old one) because it's just not accurate, I was considering the Bosch but after seeing this will look elsewhere, maybe he Makita or Festool.
Thanks for watching and commenting! While I have really liked the Makita in the couple of years of ownership, I am planning to move to the Festool in the new year. I’ve tried is buddy’s Kapex a few times and it’s an impressive machine! Worth the cost? Probably not. But my main hobby is more about appreciating and learning the tool, and not just the results I get from it (I know this isn’t a common take).
@@MasonWoodshop Nothing wrong with being a tool reviewer and finding enjoyment in that. TH-cam is polluted with too many AI generated reviews that are actually more harmful than anything so channels like yours become truly valuable. After watching many videos I'm leaning towards the festool myself when the time comes to change out the saw I've been using.
You said you came from a 12” DeWalt. That’s what I have… along with the same space constraints you have it seems. I’m thinking the 12” Makita just because they go flush to the wall. Was it really a big difference between the 10 and 12”? Do you ever run into a problem where the 10” isn’t big enough like cutting 4x4?
Great question! I haven’t run into any capacity issues. I can cut 12” 3/4” material and dimensional 4x4s with the 10” blade. The 12” looks like the same just with even more capacity.
EXCELLENT review/comparison of the two saws I’ve narrowed down my choices to. As of 7/16/23 this Makita is $739 and the Bosch is $559 after current 11% discount!!! Big difference, but last miter saw I intend to purchase, so I’m likely going with the Makita because of the dust collection and I’m a Makita girl. (Prices are from Amazon USA site.)
A year later... Are you happy with the Makita? (I'm close to pulling the trigger on it but always second guess myself.) As accurate as you hoped when extended? Great content. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting! I’m still really liking the Makita and am happy I made the change. The combination of the dust collection and laser have made my life in the shop easier. At full extension there’s a little bit of deflection, but it’s minimal and not as much as the Bosch.
I have a Makita sliding compound 10". Lately I have used the Bosch (same model as in this video) quite a bit. It's a problem getting the sawblade square to the fence.
I had the same Makita for couple of years and I could never make it square when extended because the rails had that problem there is a few videos about that problem so you have to force the rails try and fix it
Happy to hear that! I don’t have much use on it yet, but so far I’m digging the dust collection the most and am finding the laser very handy, despite not being 100% exact.
@@MasonWoodshop Dust is a big consideration for me since I have a 2.5" vacuum line to all my tools. One issue I might have if I decide to buy the makita (which is similar to you) is that my current non-sliding miter saw fits well on a 24" deep workbench. I don't mind it extending forward when the saw is open but considering the extra 1 or 2 inches in the back to accommodate the vacuum swinging out in the back, do you think the miter saw can fit without protruding forward on a 24" deep workbench when locked in the 60 degree position?
@@Blaster8282 I just measured mine as it's in long-term spot now. From the wall (at 60 degrees, but positioned such that I don't need to move it forward to use with dust port) it's exactly 23 1/2" inches to the front of the feet and 25" to the front of the curved top, which overhangs my 24" bench but it's a big deal.
@@MasonWoodshop Huge thanks for the info! I'm about to pull the trigger but since I already have a workbench that I made with my old miter's dimensions, can you help tell me what the height is from the bottom / your workbench to the cutting platform of the Makita miter? I saw someone on Amazon say it is ~3.5" but they weren't sure.
Glad you asked! It is there, but maybe about half as much as my Bosch Glide and only noticeable when cutting beyond maybe 10”. I’m still glad that I went with this saw instead of the Bosch Glide (note that my specific unit may have been particularly problematic) as it seems like the reality is that any sliding mitre saw has some level of deflection.
I bought the Bosch CM10GD after seeing a lot of TH-cam woodworkers who enjoyed it and I absolutely HATED it. For the reasons you mentioned: the dust collection is simply pathetic, and the fact that it can't make a reliably square cut at its full length means you're paying all that money for an arm that looks cool but is useless for any sort of precise carpentry. But the thing that made me return it was that you can adjust the miter angle by 1 to 2 degrees even when locked down! I thought it was just my saw, but the display model had the same problem: just a medium amount of force and you can push it out of square. Meanwhile my $300 DeWalt miter saw is locked tight at any angle. In the end, I can't think of a purpose for the Bosch. If you're a contractor, it's too expensive. If you're a woodworker, it's not precise enough. Swapped out for the Makita, which comes with a laser, better dust collection, an angle that won't shift on me, and it was $30 cheaper. THE MITER ANGLE CAN BE PUSHED OUT OF ALIGNMENT!
This saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
Muy buen video, gracias. Ayer compré la Mákita y después de ver tu vídeo creo que he acertado al 100%, Iba a comprar la Dewalt, pero creo que la Makita gana en.muchos detalles, mucha gente pasa por alto la recolección de polvo y luego tu taller o garage acaban llenos de serrín por todas partes. Un saludo desde España.
Since your review some time ago, what do you think of the angle accuracy of the 45 and the other angles on Makita and is there any blade deflection of the Makita?
Great question! I have noticed a little bit of deflection when sliding and cutting wide material. It’s quite minimal and much better than I experienced with the Bosch, but it’s still there. I’m confident that if I spent the time adjusting, I’d be able to correct it but the reality is that the deflection isn’t enough to negatively impact any of the work I’m doing.
Have you tried to adjust the alignment of the Makita, making it square to the fence and table? How difficult or easy was that? Any issues with deflection when cutting? The Hitachi (now HPT Metabo) C10FSHC is similar to the Makita in having the “forward rails”. It’s a very nice tool, but the blade will deflect when pulled forward if I’m not careful. The dust port is 2” I think, and captures MUCH more dust than my older non-sliding Delta, which unfortunately had a very small dust port. That said, the dust collection is still bad. The Hitachi’s mechanism for adjusting alignment is best described as terrible, VERY difficult, where the Delta is pretty easy. Thank-you for all the information, it was a great look at two leading products.
If I weren't limited by cost, I'd certainly go with the Festool Kapex. I've only used one a couple of times and love it...just couldn't justify the cost at this time. Someday!
Thanks for the video. I have a question, what caused you to decide on the 10 1/4" blade Vs the 12" blade ? accuracy or no need for the bigger blade????
I've had 12" in the past, I now have 10". A 10" sliding saw has a large width capacity and I don't think I never needed the additional width of the 12". The 12" is appreciably larger/heavier and with the 10" I can share blades with my 10" table saw as needed.
I definitely agree with you about the Makita fence. Why would you want to sacrifice all support for taller pieces when bevel cutting? They shot themseves in the foot there. *Question... can you swap the fences left to right?* Those angles would hang over the sides but who cares? At least they would be away from the blade, and you'd have some support.
I finally got around to checking and you can indeed swap the left and right fences! They don’t lock down quite as well when swapped, but it’s perfectly usable like this when you want that wider support. Thanks for thinking about it!
True about the aluminium thing, i have mine for a few months now and aluminium is already worn out a bit and has some wobble on positive stops, not a deal breaker but its annoying, everything else is great on it except for the weight, not very mobile and very uncomfortable for a one person to carry around but i love it 😀
@@jackderby22 people actually asked makita to do something about it but they said "no" 😁 theres a guy making stainless steel ones if you want to look it up, theres even a replacement available, here in europe is around 30 euros, about 40 US dollars
@@21sheik I found a guy that was making them but is no longer doing so…. Not sure if it’s the same guy or not but he had them listed at 110 US… too bad.. I’m a DIY guy so maybe I’ll get a better life cycle. I’m still debating which saw to get.
Hi I've searched and searched and even contacted Makita (no reply as yet) but I can't find what the lowered/locked position height is for the Makita LS1019 (I know it's 660mm when in use). Can anyone who owns one let me know what this figure is? Cheers
I just put a level on the top of the motor (highest point when lowered/locked) and the height is exactly 460mm. I also doubled checked to validate the height when and in use which was exactly the 660mm you noted.
Can you measure the distance from the back (at 90 degrees configuration) to the front of the fence? In other words, the amount of "wasted" (non-cutting) space behind the fence? The only reason I would consider either of these is to get as close to the wall as possible.
From the back of the main housing when at 90 degrees it’s about 685mm or 23”. From Joe I have mine positioned as close to the wall as I can it’s 610mm or 24” from the wall to the front feet.
@@MasonWoodshop quick confirmation on those numbers, because 685mm is almost 27 inches not 23. The back wall to front of feet number is perfect for my bench. Do you find it still keeps zero when at full extension?
@@blainechapman2577 Whoops, that was my bad and I meant 585mm! I find that there is some deflection at full extension, meaning that cutting a 3/4" thick 12" wide board doesn't result in perfectly square cuts, but it's been acceptable for my uses and not nearly as bad as I had with the Bosch Glide 10" saw.
My dad's smaller aunt had cholesterol issues for years until she started doing horse shoes. Something about the swinging under the west led her to his fence over there by the white bush. Thanks Gavin for the cholesterol review!
Great call out on the hose sticking out the back of the Makita saw. I want to squish this into a tight space in my garage right against a wall, do you think a right angle adapter would help the depth issue? Or would the hose still be hitting the wall too much. Thanks!
Well you've convinced me! I'm considering a new mitre saw with a forwards glide mechanism and was torn between the bosch or whether to splurge for the festool kapex. The Makita wasn't even on my radar, but i think this will be my next big purchase now. p.s. Just came across your channel today - definitely worth a sub!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I continue to really like the Makita and while I’m sure I’ll get the Kapex at some point, it’s so much more expensive.
Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing..
Get a ABS 60deg el. Problem solved. Make a slit in either end and place a pipe clamp on end needed. Makita has always been the best machine for me personally
Great question! Overall I really like the saw and have used it quite a bit. I’m happy I made the change from the Bosch, but at the same time there is a bit of deflection when cutting at near full width. It’s not as bad as the Bosch unit I had (and other people with the Bosch may have no deflection), but it does prevent me from using the mitre saw for things like cutting shelves. For any sort of general construction, it would be totally fine! With all of the above noted, the dust extraction on the Makita is great, as is the laser line.
Folks we live in tool history Nirvana.. 😂 lol. Seriously I’m almost 60. The tools we have today are fantastic. Now.. make no mistake there were amazing tools in the past. Before power tools, craftsmanship was often founded on training young men in sharpening chisels, planers, saws etc. These men hand made some truly amazing tools of all time. But today, even the cheep Chinese miter saws add capabilities out grandparents could only dream of.
Love your comment, thank you! I've been watching a lot of The New Yankee Workshop recently and the old Delta mitre saw he used (and one similar to my Dad's first mitre saw) is so much different from those we have today. Still a motor with a blade, but nowhere near the comforts we have now.
@@MasonWoodshop I grew up on a large sheep and cattle ranch in the mountains of Southern New Mexico. It was very remote, 148 (round trip) miles to high school once kids graduated from the three room school house which had 20 kids total. Anyway my grandfather homesteaded our place and grew built it into a large operation from 1908-1988. He was born in 1889. Anyway he lived into his 90’s and never three a tool away. We had tons of old tools all the tools my father bought from the 1950s until death a couple of years ago. My dad made high quality cabinetry from saw kill rough lumber.. His Delta table saw was very very powerful and heavy. Same for most wood working tools. Most of the tools Were made from steel and caste Non had sawdust capture... I spent a lot of time cleaning shop as a child. The tools did the job. But it was not as easy or convenient as tools make things today.
I'd like to hear about your experienc with the Makita In regards to accuracy. I owned one a while back and I found that it went out of square easily. Also I found that if you wanted to cut stock wider than it allows. I'd flip it over and continue my cut from the other side and I found that it would never line up. I really do hope to hear back from you because I'm considering buying g another one because it looks as though it should be an amazing piece of hardware.
Yes, please. It's one of the things that was mentioned at the start of the video (in regards to deflection at full pull-out capacity) and then didn't come up again. Is that going in a future video perhaps?
@@PikkaBird I own the 12" version and once you take some time to dial miter/bevels, which is very easy on this saw in it cuts accurate it all positions. I also get dead on cuts at full cross cut, about 14" on the 12" if I'm not mistaken. Like any slider, you need to push straight forward/back because it can deflect with excess force, but not with proper form. The biggest negative for me is the aluminum detent plate, I wore mine out in a few months. I'm a trim carpenter so it gets used heavily, probably not as big a deal if your just a hobbyist and/or you baby it a bit. I was able to buy a stainless one when the guy was still making them but that was $120 and he's no longer producing them. The dust collection is pretty good, but it does clog up sometimes due to the tight bend but much better than most. The front bevel controls are great, laser sucks but I never use one anyway. It is heavy and sucks to lug up stairs, but I'm ok with it because to me its a better saw than others on the market. Hope that helps.
I have the 12" corded Mkita saw. If you are framing houses, it's great. If you are making doors where insanely square is important, it is garbage. it can be set square, but it will not stay square. The aluminum detent plate is also garbage--the detent notches wallow out quickly. Replacing the detent plate with a stainless steel plate helps a bit, bit it does not change anything about its inability to remain square. Laser is okay. Soft start is great. Reasonably quite. Dust collection could be worse. Squareness is junk. Strongly do not recommend for precision work.
@@MasonWoodshop Never say never. Haha. The price is definitely prohibitive, especially for us Canadians. I have been looking at that exact makita saw to replace an older Hitatchi. Will probably hold off for the winter though. Keep up the great content!
Two great saws . The problem with the Makita is, do not get a piece of wood jambed in it. It will strip the gears out of it. The Bosch is belt drive and will slip. Thank You
@@j.f.8768 The Makita saw runs on gears and the Bosch has a belt drive. If you get a piece of wood caught between the back-stop and blade, the Makita can strip the gears. The Bosch with its belt drive will slip, before damage. Thanks
I’m very disappointed that the Makita fence don’t just slide out of the way like the Bosch. I see this vid is about two months old so how are you liking the Makita compared to the Bosch so far?
It is a bit annoying they don’t slide the same way, but overall I’m so much happier with the Makita! The dust collection and sliding mechanism are top-notch and I certainly got lucky with a unit that was perfectly calibrated from the factory (not always the case).
@@MasonWoodshop Happy to hear that. I’m still using an old Dewalt that’s over 25 plus years old and doesn’t even have a safety switch. Hence the reason I ended up here because I’m doing some research and those were the two saws on the top of my list. One thing I liked about the Makita too is it has soft start. That’s very lucky indeed. Most needs calibration. TY for replying.
Used them all over the years and i prefer my Metabo ltx216, lighter, stayed accurate over years of use and its 18v runs longer than makitas dual 18v even. I find these saws too big for site use, more for workshop use (not a correction as i can see you are in a workshop. But just wanted to say what a good saw Metabo make) Also in my experience makita make very very good saws also. Bosch have always been the worst in class at dust collection.
I have never liked bosch atleast sliders then i started using a makita and ridgid both work great no bullshit.great power on both great for Crown molding.
unfortunately, the fact that the detents are molded into an aluminum ring rather than steel means I won't be buying a Makita anytime soon. Makita is well aware of the issue and it baffles me that they allow such an obvious flaw ruin what is otherwise a great tool. So no Makita for me unless and until they fix the issue. There used to be a guy that made steel rings and sold them after market, but he's moved on from the makita and they are no longer available last I checked.
I have found that tool prices (when on sale) in Canada are typical very good, even better than the US (and far better than EU). Not sure how or why as we pay through the nose on a lot of other goods.
I am interested in the accuracy of the saw, and when you started the comparison you said you wanted to find out if the Makta would be accurate with a 10” piece of plywood. I listed to the entire comparison and while you had some important dust control information, you not only never answered the main question you started with, but did not even put a square on the tiny board you used for the very disappointing test. I’m 73 years old, but I have wasted a lot of time on this video.
My apologies for wasting your time with the video and missing that comparison. After using it quite intensively over the past few weeks, it’s very accurate (my squares consistently have it at 90 degrees) when cutting cutting even up to 12” boards with the sliding mechanism. Much better than my Bosch, although as with any tool, any unit of the same saw could have slight differences in calibration.
The Kapex is in no way, shape or form an upgrade over that Makita saw. The Festool is no more precice, has less power and uses a non standard arbor size. Also, the grip on the Makita is much more comfortable than the vertical grip on the kapex
The makita dust collection still really sucks. I bought the makita but sent it back because i couldnt get it to cut square to save my life. It actually made curved cuts in wood, something ive never seen before in a miter saw. The worst cutting saw ive ever used.
Oh wow, that sounds awful and that kind of curved deflection shows quite a few quality issues. Out of curiosity, what saw did you get instead? Thanks for sharing!
Choosing between these two saws is akin to choosing between a Lexus and a BMW. If you like innovation, buy German. If you prefer reliability and craftsmanship buy Japanese.
Because 90% of all woodworkers on YT are? Whenever I find new channels I watch a few of the channels not paying much attention to the accent, but then BOOM - Robertson screws!
Bosch miter saw is good only for the guys that do exterior work,it has so much deflection and dust collection is probably one of the worst,just hate this saw in any aspect
you wasted your time speaking about 1 inch of hose or other irelevant features...you should have test the accuracy at 90/45 degrees..thats what matters
OF IMPORTANCE THAT YOU FAIL TO MENTION IS THE WIDTH AND DEPTH OF THE BASES OF THESE TWO SAWS. THAT IS IMPORTANT IN PLANNING AND BUILDING A SAW STAND FOR THESE TOOLS. LET'S FACE IT: DUST COLLECTION SYSTEMS OF ALL MITRE SAWS LEAVE MUCH TO BE DESIRED. FESTOOL IS A GERMAN COMPANY WHOSE TOOLS, THOUGH WELL MADE, ARE OVERRATED AND RIDICULOUSLY OVERPRICED.
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Great review Mason!! The fact that the detent plate on the Makita is made out of aluminum, is definitely a game changer for me!!
I have the 12 inch version of the Bosch and converted the dust collector duct to a shop nation duct and it makes a huge difference
Nice! I have the 36v version. I love the cut capacity of these saws. On the job today I cut 5-1/4” baseboard vertically. You just have to flip the metal stop located at the rear of the top rail to maximize the vertical capacity. Saves a ton of time not having to cut baseboard flat on the table.
I've had the Bosch since 2018, and the biggest problem with the glide arm is that there is a fair bit more play than you'd find on a traditional saw with rails. It is lousy at trenching because of this, and I don't like doing bevel cuts with it. Not to say it can't do those things, but that they are compromised.
I’ve had my LS1019L for about 2-3 years now. It appears from yours that they have made a slight change to the dust collection hoses. On yours, the vacuum plugs into the top port which then splits off to the back (bottom) port. On my Makita, it is just the opposite, as my Festool extractor plugs into the port at the bottom back. That has actually caused me problems as I have to pull the LS1019L out a couple of inches from the wall to get my vac hooked up. FWIW, I just bought a 3D printed 45° adapter that works with both your saw as well as mine. It has helped my hookup, and it should help yours as well.
Thanks for sharing! I’m glad mine has the port on top, but I’m a bit surprised they didn’t make it usable with the saw flat against a wall. I’ll definitely be picking up a 45 degree adapter!
I got the new Makita 12" 40v version and love it its very accurate out of the box and even with extended head out I found has no deflection , great mitre saw
No deflection? I find that hard to believe. Every 12" has deflection at full extension.
Or do you mean markedly reduced ;) ?
@OscyJack- if you are applying a normal pressure to cut a lumber in normal motion there is actually no deflection, but if you are purposely trying to bend it then of course it will deflect , I am comparing to red and yellow 😉 ones that I owned and the deflection was vary bad , I dont own any other makita tools but I like this saw finally found something true and accurate
@@agent7agent759 that's awesome to hear.
I'm currently out to replace my 10" non slider single bevel.
I am torn between all the options to be honest. And I'm usually a ketchup or mustard guy.
Top of the list is Makita, Bosch ATM but then again mustard is only $399
If you torn in between the yellow and red , I had better experience with the yellow , the red is the worst, if you don't mind the rails to be extended at the back then for the price you mentioned it's probably the 778 model or 780 , check the newest cordless one is out 12" 60v , it's promising
Is directo drive???
The fact the Makita locks with metal detents is making me want to get this. I hate my 10" sliding Metabo (it uses plastic detents which cause slop and the rail system has slop too).
All glides suck. Gotta upgrade to the better Bosch but won’t disappoint
FYI - Dec 2023 the Makita is on Amazon (Canada) for $829. I wish it was $500!! Looks like my 15 year old Craftsman will have to do for a bit. Great review - thanks!
Re the makita fence, I believe you can remove then flip it over to get the high support for angled cuts that you describe.
Edited! I bought one and no you can’t. Must have been on another model but I’m really pleased with the saw. It’s solid and accurate
Great comparison video, thanks for pointing out all the little details you can't get from the manufacturer specs!
Thanks for the kind comment!
ㄴㅎ
Don’t know if 10” Bosch is different to 12”. A prob on my 12”, is when I have the dept adjuster on, the dept is very much related to the downward pressure on the saw, I can easily get an extra mm or two by pushing down a little harder. Doesn’t suit me at all, I lost my right arm almost at the shoulder, I’ve made a handle extension so I can operate it by hooking my stump over it, that handle ext also keeps the saw on all the time, I turn on and off with a foot pedal switch.
I noticed the same thing the first time I used the depth adjuster on my 10" Bosch. I think it comes down to technique -- I get better results when I use a slower and smoother motion in bringing down the handle so the depth adjustment screw just kisses the stop plate.
I had the 12” Bosch and the glide system was a work of art however there was a substantial amount of play in it relative to the other mitre saws I have had. I also found the start up on the Bosch was unnecessarily rough for the quality of the saw.
I just bought the Bosch yesterday, and I think I might return it, especially if I can find a Makita for the same price like you did. The deflection is inexcusable. And also, you said it : the handle is big beyond comparison! It really makes for a cumbersome use that sorta makes you want to reassure your hand just before hitting the stock to cut.
Too bad that you ran into the same issue. I know quite a few people with great Glides, but it’s been interesting to see other folks note their issues in the video. The Makita remains great for me with only minor issues at full extension.
@@MasonWoodshop Thanks for your answer, it made me realize that I forgot to end my comment with a congrats for your video. You really did compare two comparables…. Also : salutations from Montreal.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Always great to see a fellow Canadian.
fellow ontario woodworker, sarnia is home for me. i like your channel!
i'm not a fan of miter saws for fine woodworking, great for trim work in the house though. i always use a sled on my tablesaw(or my jessum mitre guage). a jigsaw at the lumber stack works for rough cuts for length
Welcome!! I grew up just outside of Sarnia and now make London home. My mitre saw use is similar - mostly rough cuts and home improvement work.
I still refuse to use a table saw after seeing so many people get mangled by them, many of them seasoned professionals.
I'm finally considering using a sled for exactly what you're talkin about, surely they have to be much safer right?! You've got the thick wood wall in case it flings a piece and then you're using a clamp instead of your fingers so you're not even getting your hands close.
I've got a small dewalt jobsite table saw chilling under the table here hmm
@@johnnycorn7225get a sawstop. But more importantly: LEARN how to use a saw safely, and NEVER become complacent. Those “seasoned professionals” you mentioned, were complacent/over confident, and gambled with fate…and lost! Not very professional after all.
There is no reason to have you hand anywhere near close enough to the blade, that getting cut should be a risk. Use push sticks, grippers, hold down clamps, hell…even a pencil eraser, to hold material.
I’m an airline pilot, and if i was to lose a hand, it would greatly jeopardize my multi-million dollar career, which is why i use Sawstops. But that is just a precaution. There is no tech that replaces good, safe practices. TH-cam is FULL of information that can help you go about it safely.
@@harveymanfrantinsingin7373 I learned while working in a factory you can't let your guard down for a nanosecond when dealing with these high-powered machines!! I've got a 14 inch jet sfx bandsaw on the way and I'm using the bow extender fence with it as well with feather boards. Still haven't built the table saw sled but it's coming!! My progress might be slow but I am nitpicking every step along the way!!
@ yessir, that’s correct! Take your time, and do what you’re comfortable with. I used to build all of my sleds, but i actually just bought the incra sled. Mostly because if you use it correctly, your hand is never in line with the blade. Plus i use it with the 1000HD miter gauge, so being able to set angles does to the single degree, quickly and 100% repeatable, without a bunch of BS, is awesome.
Lol, I’ve done woodworking while broke in life, and I’ve done while i have money. I’ll take the money every time! 😂
Edit: i also just got the Bow extender. Nice product!
I had one of the original versions of the makita saw. And like some reviews, I COULD NOT get the the blade square. You have to mess with the two guide rails to try and get the blade at 90 degrees. And I just simply couldn’t get it to be at 90 degrees. Also at full extension it seemed to always be off mo matter what I did. So for woodworking, I went back to dewalt and just made room for it. I had a small shop as well. I hope they improved it
Thanks for the videos, does the makita have a way of setting de depth of cut?
Yup! There’s a pin you can use to dial in depth for things like dados.
Thanks for telling us all we needed to know. I'm looking to change out my 12" Makita (old one) because it's just not accurate, I was considering the Bosch but after seeing this will look elsewhere, maybe he Makita or Festool.
Thanks for watching and commenting! While I have really liked the Makita in the couple of years of ownership, I am planning to move to the Festool in the new year. I’ve tried is buddy’s Kapex a few times and it’s an impressive machine! Worth the cost? Probably not. But my main hobby is more about appreciating and learning the tool, and not just the results I get from it (I know this isn’t a common take).
@@MasonWoodshop Nothing wrong with being a tool reviewer and finding enjoyment in that. TH-cam is polluted with too many AI generated reviews that are actually more harmful than anything so channels like yours become truly valuable. After watching many videos I'm leaning towards the festool myself when the time comes to change out the saw I've been using.
You said you came from a 12” DeWalt. That’s what I have… along with the same space constraints you have it seems. I’m thinking the 12” Makita just because they go flush to the wall. Was it really a big difference between the 10 and 12”? Do you ever run into a problem where the 10” isn’t big enough like cutting 4x4?
Great question! I haven’t run into any capacity issues. I can cut 12” 3/4” material and dimensional 4x4s with the 10” blade. The 12” looks like the same just with even more capacity.
Been using the Bosch for the past four years and is pretty satisfied.
EXCELLENT review/comparison of the two saws I’ve narrowed down my choices to. As of 7/16/23 this Makita is $739 and the Bosch is $559 after current 11% discount!!! Big difference, but last miter saw I intend to purchase, so I’m likely going with the Makita because of the dust collection and I’m a Makita girl. (Prices are from Amazon USA site.)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
A girl has it right wake from your stupor gents .
A year later... Are you happy with the Makita? (I'm close to pulling the trigger on it but always second guess myself.) As accurate as you hoped when extended? Great content. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting! I’m still really liking the Makita and am happy I made the change. The combination of the dust collection and laser have made my life in the shop easier. At full extension there’s a little bit of deflection, but it’s minimal and not as much as the Bosch.
I have a Makita sliding compound 10". Lately I have used the Bosch (same model as in this video) quite a bit. It's a problem getting the sawblade square to the fence.
I had the same Makita for couple of years and I could never make it square when extended because the rails had that problem there is a few videos about that problem so you have to force the rails try and fix it
Thanks for sharing that, Oscar! I’m going to do some more accuracy checks, but so far mine seems to be calibrated well.
Hola Oscar, sigues con tu Makita, la recomiendas, u considerarías alguna otra marca?
I've been considering the Makita for sometime and this is exactly the type of video I've been looking for. Great video!
Happy to hear that! I don’t have much use on it yet, but so far I’m digging the dust collection the most and am finding the laser very handy, despite not being 100% exact.
@@MasonWoodshop Dust is a big consideration for me since I have a 2.5" vacuum line to all my tools. One issue I might have if I decide to buy the makita (which is similar to you) is that my current non-sliding miter saw fits well on a 24" deep workbench. I don't mind it extending forward when the saw is open but considering the extra 1 or 2 inches in the back to accommodate the vacuum swinging out in the back, do you think the miter saw can fit without protruding forward on a 24" deep workbench when locked in the 60 degree position?
@@Blaster8282 I just measured mine as it's in long-term spot now. From the wall (at 60 degrees, but positioned such that I don't need to move it forward to use with dust port) it's exactly 23 1/2" inches to the front of the feet and 25" to the front of the curved top, which overhangs my 24" bench but it's a big deal.
@@MasonWoodshop Huge thanks for the info! I'm about to pull the trigger but since I already have a workbench that I made with my old miter's dimensions, can you help tell me what the height is from the bottom / your workbench to the cutting platform of the Makita miter? I saw someone on Amazon say it is ~3.5" but they weren't sure.
@@Blaster8282 That's great!! I just measured and the height from the top of my bench to the cutting surface on the saw is 3 13/16"
So, one year in, how is the deflection on the Makita for wide cuts?
Glad you asked! It is there, but maybe about half as much as my Bosch Glide and only noticeable when cutting beyond maybe 10”. I’m still glad that I went with this saw instead of the Bosch Glide (note that my specific unit may have been particularly problematic) as it seems like the reality is that any sliding mitre saw has some level of deflection.
Video was very helpful. So were the viewer comments.
Glad it was helpful!
I bought the Bosch CM10GD after seeing a lot of TH-cam woodworkers who enjoyed it and I absolutely HATED it. For the reasons you mentioned: the dust collection is simply pathetic, and the fact that it can't make a reliably square cut at its full length means you're paying all that money for an arm that looks cool but is useless for any sort of precise carpentry.
But the thing that made me return it was that you can adjust the miter angle by 1 to 2 degrees even when locked down! I thought it was just my saw, but the display model had the same problem: just a medium amount of force and you can push it out of square. Meanwhile my $300 DeWalt miter saw is locked tight at any angle.
In the end, I can't think of a purpose for the Bosch. If you're a contractor, it's too expensive. If you're a woodworker, it's not precise enough. Swapped out for the Makita, which comes with a laser, better dust collection, an angle that won't shift on me, and it was $30 cheaper.
THE MITER ANGLE CAN BE PUSHED OUT OF ALIGNMENT!
Yes!!! Thank you for sharing.
This saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
67 upvotes on a bogus unrelated post? What to hell.
Muy buen video, gracias.
Ayer compré la Mákita y después de ver tu vídeo creo que he acertado al 100%, Iba a comprar la Dewalt, pero creo que la Makita gana en.muchos detalles, mucha gente pasa por alto la recolección de polvo y luego tu taller o garage acaban llenos de serrín por todas partes. Un saludo desde España.
Since your review some time ago, what do you think of the angle accuracy of the 45 and the other angles on Makita and is there any blade deflection of the Makita?
Great question! I have noticed a little bit of deflection when sliding and cutting wide material. It’s quite minimal and much better than I experienced with the Bosch, but it’s still there. I’m confident that if I spent the time adjusting, I’d be able to correct it but the reality is that the deflection isn’t enough to negatively impact any of the work I’m doing.
Have you tried to adjust the alignment of the Makita, making it square to the fence and table? How difficult or easy was that? Any issues with deflection when cutting?
The Hitachi (now HPT Metabo) C10FSHC is similar to the Makita in having the “forward rails”. It’s a very nice tool, but the blade will deflect when pulled forward if I’m not careful. The dust port is 2” I think, and captures MUCH more dust than my older non-sliding Delta, which unfortunately had a very small dust port. That said, the dust collection is still bad. The Hitachi’s mechanism for adjusting alignment is best described as terrible, VERY difficult, where the Delta is pretty easy.
Thank-you for all the information, it was a great look at two leading products.
Hi, I'd like to have your advice. I'm undecided between makita ls1219l and kapex festool. I would like to make a good purchase.
If I weren't limited by cost, I'd certainly go with the Festool Kapex. I've only used one a couple of times and love it...just couldn't justify the cost at this time. Someday!
I have the bosch and love it
Thanks for the video. I have a question, what caused you to decide on the 10 1/4" blade Vs the 12" blade ? accuracy or no need for the bigger blade????
Size/weight was the biggest concern for me. The great thing with modern sliding saws is that I can still cut 2x12 material with a 10” blade.
I've had 12" in the past, I now have 10". A 10" sliding saw has a large width capacity and I don't think I never needed the additional width of the 12". The 12" is appreciably larger/heavier and with the 10" I can share blades with my 10" table saw as needed.
I definitely agree with you about the Makita fence. Why would you want to sacrifice all support for taller pieces when bevel cutting? They shot themseves in the foot there.
*Question... can you swap the fences left to right?* Those angles would hang over the sides but who cares? At least they would be away from the blade, and you'd have some support.
I finally got around to checking and you can indeed swap the left and right fences! They don’t lock down quite as well when swapped, but it’s perfectly usable like this when you want that wider support. Thanks for thinking about it!
True about the aluminium thing, i have mine for a few months now and aluminium is already worn out a bit and has some wobble on positive stops, not a deal breaker but its annoying, everything else is great on it except for the weight, not very mobile and very uncomfortable for a one person to carry around but i love it 😀
I wonder if you can order a new plate? I understand that it should come with a stainless steel plate at this price point…
@@jackderby22 people actually asked makita to do something about it but they said "no" 😁 theres a guy making stainless steel ones if you want to look it up, theres even a replacement available, here in europe is around 30 euros, about 40 US dollars
@@21sheik I found a guy that was making them but is no longer doing so…. Not sure if it’s the same guy or not but he had them listed at 110 US… too bad.. I’m a DIY guy so maybe I’ll get a better life cycle. I’m still debating which saw to get.
Hi
I've searched and searched and even contacted Makita (no reply as yet) but I can't find what the lowered/locked position height is for the Makita LS1019 (I know it's 660mm when in use).
Can anyone who owns one let me know what this figure is?
Cheers
I just put a level on the top of the motor (highest point when lowered/locked) and the height is exactly 460mm.
I also doubled checked to validate the height when and in use which was exactly the 660mm you noted.
Much appreciated. Thanks for checking @@MasonWoodshop
Can you measure the distance from the back (at 90 degrees configuration) to the front of the fence? In other words, the amount of "wasted" (non-cutting) space behind the fence? The only reason I would consider either of these is to get as close to the wall as possible.
Just measured (the Makita) and from the wall (as close as I’d have it be at 90 degrees) it’s 14 1/4” to the front of the fence.
@Mason Woodshop Thanks. My Dewalt DW718 is 17.25" from wall to fence, so probably not enough space savings to justify a new purchase.
Great review. Very detailed.
YOUR FESTOOL HAT GIVES YOU AWAY!
What is the measurement from the back of the Makita to the front feet? I prefer my front feet being right on the edge of the bench.
From the back of the main housing when at 90 degrees it’s about 685mm or 23”. From Joe I have mine positioned as close to the wall as I can it’s 610mm or 24” from the wall to the front feet.
@@MasonWoodshop quick confirmation on those numbers, because 685mm is almost 27 inches not 23. The back wall to front of feet number is perfect for my bench. Do you find it still keeps zero when at full extension?
@@blainechapman2577 Whoops, that was my bad and I meant 585mm! I find that there is some deflection at full extension, meaning that cutting a 3/4" thick 12" wide board doesn't result in perfectly square cuts, but it's been acceptable for my uses and not nearly as bad as I had with the Bosch Glide 10" saw.
My dad's smaller aunt had cholesterol issues for years until she started doing horse shoes. Something about the swinging under the west led her to his fence over there by the white bush. Thanks Gavin for the cholesterol review!
Man drugs are a heck of a thing.
Orange now! @@joelc9329
Great call out on the hose sticking out the back of the Makita saw. I want to squish this into a tight space in my garage right against a wall, do you think a right angle adapter would help the depth issue? Or would the hose still be hitting the wall too much. Thanks!
Never mind just kept watching and you said you're already looking into it! Festool sells one or you can also 3D print one
Nice comparison sir good thing is makita my favorite tools.
Excellent review! I will tune into more of your reviews.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Well you've convinced me! I'm considering a new mitre saw with a forwards glide mechanism and was torn between the bosch or whether to splurge for the festool kapex. The Makita wasn't even on my radar, but i think this will be my next big purchase now.
p.s. Just came across your channel today - definitely worth a sub!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I continue to really like the Makita and while I’m sure I’ll get the Kapex at some point, it’s so much more expensive.
Great video Cole!😊
To get more precise cuts that are short can you lock the glide rails so it function like a stationary miter saw?
Yup, the saw can be locked in with a cut capacity of ~5 1/2"
Can the Makita fences possibly be reversed when bevel cutting? Right on left and left on right?
Woodworking Beginner: New - Update.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know.
Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS.
Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
(test is completed).
Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade.
The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade.
Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing..
Get a ABS 60deg el. Problem solved. Make a slit in either end and place a pipe clamp on end needed.
Makita has always been the best machine for me personally
Great advice, I forgot that 60 degree elbows existed!
Any thoughts on the Makita after 1yr??
Great question! Overall I really like the saw and have used it quite a bit. I’m happy I made the change from the Bosch, but at the same time there is a bit of deflection when cutting at near full width. It’s not as bad as the Bosch unit I had (and other people with the Bosch may have no deflection), but it does prevent me from using the mitre saw for things like cutting shelves. For any sort of general construction, it would be totally fine!
With all of the above noted, the dust extraction on the Makita is great, as is the laser line.
Thought makita started making the detent plate out of stainless steel now?
The DeWalt is a bigger seller among 12 inch saws and it has the LED shadow line. I don't own the miter saw but have studied it quite a bit.
Folks we live in tool history Nirvana.. 😂 lol. Seriously I’m almost 60. The tools we have today are fantastic. Now.. make no mistake there were amazing tools in the past. Before power tools, craftsmanship was often founded on training young men in sharpening chisels, planers, saws etc. These men hand made some truly amazing tools of all time.
But today, even the cheep Chinese miter saws add capabilities out grandparents could only dream of.
Love your comment, thank you! I've been watching a lot of The New Yankee Workshop recently and the old Delta mitre saw he used (and one similar to my Dad's first mitre saw) is so much different from those we have today. Still a motor with a blade, but nowhere near the comforts we have now.
@@MasonWoodshop I grew up on a large sheep and cattle ranch in the mountains of Southern New Mexico. It was very remote, 148 (round trip) miles to high school once kids graduated from the three room school house which had 20 kids total.
Anyway my grandfather homesteaded our place and grew built it into a large operation from 1908-1988. He was born in 1889.
Anyway he lived into his 90’s and never three a tool away. We had tons of old tools all the tools my father bought from the 1950s until death a couple of years ago.
My dad made high quality cabinetry from saw kill rough lumber.. His Delta table saw was very very powerful and heavy. Same for most wood working tools. Most of the tools
Were made from steel and caste Non had sawdust capture... I spent a lot of time cleaning shop as a child. The tools did the job. But it was not as easy or convenient as tools make things today.
@@bret9741 wow, that’s a great story! Thank you for sharing.
I'd like to hear about your experienc with the Makita In regards to accuracy. I owned one a while back and I found that it went out of square easily. Also I found that if you wanted to cut stock wider than it allows. I'd flip it over and continue my cut from the other side and I found that it would never line up. I really do hope to hear back from you because I'm considering buying g another one because it looks as though it should be an amazing piece of hardware.
Yes, please. It's one of the things that was mentioned at the start of the video (in regards to deflection at full pull-out capacity) and then didn't come up again. Is that going in a future video perhaps?
@@PikkaBird I own the 12" version and once you take some time to dial miter/bevels, which is very easy on this saw in it cuts accurate it all positions. I also get dead on cuts at full cross cut, about 14" on the 12" if I'm not mistaken. Like any slider, you need to push straight forward/back because it can deflect with excess force, but not with proper form. The biggest negative for me is the aluminum detent plate, I wore mine out in a few months. I'm a trim carpenter so it gets used heavily, probably not as big a deal if your just a hobbyist and/or you baby it a bit. I was able to buy a stainless one when the guy was still making them but that was $120 and he's no longer producing them. The dust collection is pretty good, but it does clog up sometimes due to the tight bend but much better than most. The front bevel controls are great, laser sucks but I never use one anyway. It is heavy and sucks to lug up stairs, but I'm ok with it because to me its a better saw than others on the market. Hope that helps.
Great review!
I have the 12" corded Mkita saw. If you are framing houses, it's great. If you are making doors where
insanely square is important, it is garbage. it can be set square, but it will not stay square. The aluminum
detent plate is also garbage--the detent notches wallow out quickly. Replacing the detent plate with a stainless steel plate
helps a bit, bit it does not change anything about its inability to remain square.
Laser is okay. Soft start is great. Reasonably quite. Dust collection could be worse. Squareness is junk. Strongly do
not recommend for precision work.
How long till the Kapex arrives?😉
Haha! I've been really enjoying the Makita so far, so I don't think the Kapex will be making it to my shop any time soon. I won't say never, though!
@@MasonWoodshop Never say never. Haha. The price is definitely prohibitive, especially for us Canadians. I have been looking at that exact makita saw to replace an older Hitatchi. Will probably hold off for the winter though. Keep up the great content!
does anyone know the REAL dimensions of the Makita? Such as how high is it to the deck and the width without the metal extensions and the depth etc?
Two great saws . The problem with the Makita is, do not get a piece of wood jambed in it. It will strip the gears out of it. The Bosch is belt drive and will slip. Thank You
Agreed! Both great saws with their own set of benefits and nuances.
Hey, I translated this to german but don‘t get it, translation makes no sense to me. Can you explain again please? Thx
@@j.f.8768 The Makita saw runs on gears and the Bosch has a belt drive. If you get a piece of wood caught between the back-stop and blade, the Makita can strip the gears. The Bosch with its belt drive will slip, before damage. Thanks
@@tonyp9609 Yes Sir, now I understand. Thanks!
Another good video Cole. If you ever want a tool that I might have for a comparison just let me know.
Thanks Gary! I’ll keep that in mind. I have a habit of going dormant in the winter, haha
I’m very disappointed that the Makita fence don’t just slide out of the way like the Bosch. I see this vid is about two months old so how are you liking the Makita compared to the Bosch so far?
It is a bit annoying they don’t slide the same way, but overall I’m so much happier with the Makita! The dust collection and sliding mechanism are top-notch and I certainly got lucky with a unit that was perfectly calibrated from the factory (not always the case).
@@MasonWoodshop Happy to hear that. I’m still using an old Dewalt that’s over 25 plus years old and doesn’t even have a safety switch. Hence the reason I ended up here because I’m doing some research and those were the two saws on the top of my list. One thing I liked about the Makita too is it has soft start. That’s very lucky indeed. Most needs calibration. TY for replying.
Used them all over the years and i prefer my Metabo ltx216, lighter, stayed accurate over years of use and its 18v runs longer than makitas dual 18v even. I find these saws too big for site use, more for workshop use (not a correction as i can see you are in a workshop. But just wanted to say what a good saw Metabo make) Also in my experience makita make very very good saws also. Bosch have always been the worst in class at dust collection.
arghhh...you didn't test how square the cut was at the furthest width on the makita ....please can you tell me :)
Was the Makita used or new when purchased?
It was purchased new.
I just received my Makita LS1019L. Really hoping it was the right choice! 😀
Enjoy! Hopefully yours is as accurate out of the box as mine.
I have never liked bosch atleast sliders then i started using a makita and ridgid both work great no bullshit.great power on both great for Crown molding.
Mitre or miter??
unfortunately, the fact that the detents are molded into an aluminum ring rather than steel means I won't be buying a Makita anytime soon. Makita is well aware of the issue and it baffles me that they allow such an obvious flaw ruin what is otherwise a great tool. So no Makita for me unless and until they fix the issue. There used to be a guy that made steel rings and sold them after market, but he's moved on from the makita and they are no longer available last I checked.
the 40v ones have stainless steel detents
@@justAnotherMike82 They also have the shadow line which is really accurate, though visibility declines in full sunlight.
Great video
How the heck do you get such low prices in Canada? Here in Europe these tools retail for around 900 Euro. This is so ridiculously unfair.
I have found that tool prices (when on sale) in Canada are typical very good, even better than the US (and far better than EU). Not sure how or why as we pay through the nose on a lot of other goods.
I am interested in the accuracy of the saw, and when you started the comparison you said you wanted to find out if the Makta would be accurate with a 10” piece of plywood. I listed to the entire comparison and while you had some important dust control information, you not only never answered the main question you started with, but did not even put a square on the tiny board you used for the very disappointing test. I’m 73 years old, but I have wasted a lot of time on this video.
My apologies for wasting your time with the video and missing that comparison. After using it quite intensively over the past few weeks, it’s very accurate (my squares consistently have it at 90 degrees) when cutting cutting even up to 12” boards with the sliding mechanism. Much better than my Bosch, although as with any tool, any unit of the same saw could have slight differences in calibration.
it is a bit funny that you're comparing the sound the slides make as if youre going to hear it when you turn the saw on. good review though
The Kapex is in no way, shape or form an upgrade over that Makita saw. The Festool is no more precice, has less power and uses a non standard arbor size. Also, the grip on the Makita is much more comfortable than the vertical grip on the kapex
Wow makita👍
The only reason I would not buy the Makita is because it has a laser and not a shadow line.
There are 999 different adapters from 45 to 90 to flexible for the Makita.
The makita dust collection still really sucks. I bought the makita but sent it back because i couldnt get it to cut square to save my life. It actually made curved cuts in wood, something ive never seen before in a miter saw. The worst cutting saw ive ever used.
Oh wow, that sounds awful and that kind of curved deflection shows quite a few quality issues. Out of curiosity, what saw did you get instead? Thanks for sharing!
Choosing between these two saws is akin to choosing between a Lexus and a BMW.
If you like innovation, buy German. If you prefer reliability and craftsmanship buy Japanese.
Who ever uses the hold-down on a miter saw anyway?
I don’t use it all the time, but I do anytime I’m working with either very long or very short stock.
Use a bit of graphite powder
looks better than the Milwaukee crap
how did I know you are Canadian? lol
Hahaha!
Because 90% of all woodworkers on YT are? Whenever I find new channels I watch a few of the channels not paying much attention to the accent, but then BOOM - Robertson screws!
No the higher end would be a Festool
Definitely! I used one a couple of times this summer and it was amazing. Someday I’ll get one!
jeez that bosh is trash in comparison XD Well I know what I am buying
To heavy.
I think you are just excited about the newer saw you seen just to eager put the Bosh down. Not a fair review
Way, way, way too wordy & way too many insignificant stories.
Appreciate the feedback, thanks!
Bosch miter saw is good only for the guys that do exterior work,it has so much deflection and dust collection is probably one of the worst,just hate this saw in any aspect
you wasted your time speaking about 1 inch of hose or other irelevant features...you should have test the accuracy at 90/45 degrees..thats what matters
OF IMPORTANCE THAT YOU FAIL TO MENTION IS THE WIDTH AND DEPTH OF THE BASES OF THESE TWO SAWS. THAT IS IMPORTANT IN PLANNING AND BUILDING A SAW STAND FOR THESE TOOLS. LET'S FACE IT: DUST COLLECTION SYSTEMS OF ALL MITRE SAWS LEAVE MUCH TO BE DESIRED. FESTOOL IS A GERMAN COMPANY WHOSE TOOLS, THOUGH WELL MADE, ARE OVERRATED AND RIDICULOUSLY OVERPRICED.