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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Check out Halfords car parts! www.halfords.c...
Finally, we're back with my 1999 Jaguar S-Type V8, and it's time to give it some new brakes! Huge shoutout and thanks to @be1441 for helping me out, couldn't have done it without him...
Follow Ben on Instagram: www.instagram....
Follow Joel on Instagram for daily content: itsjoelw
Check out my podcast: / @allfourwheels
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Thanks so much to Halfords for sponsoring this video! Check out their car parts here: www.halfords.com/motoring/car-parts/
Amazing how easy it actually is to change brakes, I learnt from TH-cam now saving myself a fortune on servicing my car. Can sort most things on it even did a clutch change which was probably a step too far on the drive with axle stands, but I did it with plenty of swearing.
Yes, the swearing was definitely an issue here too. It made for quite a lengthy editing process on this video, haha!
I honestly thought you were as limp as a bank Holiday on a particularly limp month, but however you have actually done some car stuff.
Total respect going forward 👍🏻
Wow, seriously impressed! Well done Halfords for sponsoring Joel! I've a stack of your Advanced range and they're great. Also well done to Ben! I was really hoping someone could give you a hand. Great to see another video on the Jaguar.
Much appreciated! Thank you for watching!
Hi, Joel. Well done. I have a 2005 S Type 2.7. Assuming the brakes are the same (which they may not be), you need to release the electronic park brake on the rear callipers before winding the pistons back in. The pistons should need to be wound in only a tiny bit because the park brake has wound them in most of the way for you. To release it, simply turn on the ignition, foot on brake, release park brake, switch off ignition whilst holding the park brake in the off position. This is possibly what went wrong. Also, the calliper slider pins are probably seized and corroded to hell and the rubber bushings wrecked. All the best.
Great work, Joel!! I was in the same predicament as you. I wanted to learn how to fix my own cars, but hadn’t a clue where to start. I decided to by a 25 year old Mercedes C class as a car to learn on. Fast forward a few years, I’ve now got two classic Volvos that I do all the maintenance on. I’m currently in the midst of doing a resto on my 850R. Keep dipping your toe in the water 😁
Amazing! You doubled the car value by replacing the discs and pads!
Yay, best Halfords advert so far.
I have a 4.0 s type in full working order, without the rust.
If you didn't clean and lubricate the slide pins on the rear calipers that seize up with rust it's going to need doing again.
First time is always daunting.
I have plenty Halfords sockets, some have had 40 years of use.
It's possible to break anything with a length of scaffold tube and a hammer but that's not a fair go.
Keep posting the repairs,my guess is the drivers window doesn't work yet.
Thanks for watching, and for the tips!
brake pads on one side were only about 2 thirds-worn but were in a bad state, so needed swapping. Discs were shot. Well done for the DIY work. Some red rubber grease is good for pistons\seals. Much easier when you have proper tools from Halfords !
enjoying the journey with this jaaaag....and watching you DIY....keep it up
Thanks so much for tuning in!
Might want to have a good look at the brake hoses and joints too, mine is a year younger than yours and it blew a pipe on a MOT test.
Well done to you taking the job on. Self satisfaction. 👍👍👍👍👍
Absolutely!
Good to see the Jag back on the channel and still looking forward to seeing the driver-side window fixed!
More to come!
Fantastic, more people should work on their cars, or at least know how to. Couple of points though. 1/ when changing pads or disks and pads, remember to pull out those slide pins and wipe off the old grease and apply a thin layer of the correct grease. 2/ the caliper compression tool you had was the wrong tool for the rear calipers. The rear calipers are dual action, they press out to apply the brakes from the pedal, and screw out to apply the brakes from the handbrake. Therefore you need a caliper tool that rotates and presses in the rear piston at the same time. That is why you found it so hard to compress the rears, and why you didn't manage to compress them far enough to avoid binding on the disk. You can also damage the calipers just pressing them. 3/ good rule of thumb is if you are doing a full disk and pad swap, do a brake fluid replacement as well. overall good job though :-)
The T shirt joke is great. I am currently drying my clothes of today on garden furniture after washing and putting on the wrong clothes this morning!
Hi Joel. Glad to see you took the plunge and jumped in, as you said you would. I can relate to. "The plan worked out great" but in practice, a gremlin crept in soon after. So the job needed doing again. My only suggestion to complete the job would be put new brake fluid into the braking system. See you in the next one. 👍👍
Thanks for the tips!
2:30 cool to hear you like gardening too!👍 I've got multiple project cars and bikes I'm always working on but people are always very surprised to learn that I love gardening too and also cooking & baking, I make all my own bread and cakes etc 🤣 can't just enjoy 1 thing in life! 👍
Is good to indulge in many different hobbies!
what a great s type
Joel its fantastic to see you working on your own car this how i do it on my M240i, Corvette C8, Cayman S and my Z4 you save tons of money and you start knowing you car what can be wrong with it etc, i hope to see in the next episode some spark plugs !!
Well done 😊
Thanks!
Really should regrease th slide pins whenever you do discs and pads. Only yakes two secs extra and prevents many instances of sticking calipurs
Great video Joel, brakes are easy peasy when everything goes right
And fyi that's a ratchet.....not a wrench 🔧
My bad
@@itsjoel just remember young man 😂😂
Well done for having a go your self.
Rear left calliper winds in left my friend. Also take the slide pins out and clean an grease.
Shouldn’t have to hammer the calliper on
Halfords tools are really good. I have learnt the hard way!
Yes they are!
Get a Haynes manual for your s type. It was always the first thing I bought every time I got a new car. It will tell you everything you need to know including important stuff like torque settings for all the nuts and bolts.
I hope you wire brushed all the contact points and silicone greased them. I’ve done pads in the past I didn’t do that and the pads got seized against the rotor and wore down very fast. Also guide pins need cleaning and greasing
Top tip, some Halfords branded tools are actually pretty good despite the haters, the Halfords torque wrench are Norbar ones under the branding.
There is no haters regarding halfords professional/ advanced tools. I use them in my workshop along side facom and so on
@itsjoel I take delivery of my BMW 760 on July 1st, it's thanks to you that I wanted one.
Well done on the brakes. But as said, you only need a windback tool on the brakes which have the handbrake (rears on the Jag), the front should have just pushed back. Also, some calipers have a sided screw, so anticlockwise and then clockwise for the other side, I wonder if that's why you struggled getting the piston back on that side.
Helpful to know, thanks so much!
I always crack open the bleeder when pushing the pistons in - especially rear/hand brake ones that wind in. Makes it loads easier, obviously keep a careful eye on the fluid level.
Correct… but the main advantage is that you squeeze out old deteriorated brake fluid from inside the caliper and maybe the hose, that has been heated many times and has aged, it’s and easy way to replace it with fresher fluid without doing a full system flush and bleed.
Asking for air in system.
@@utopian666 No, it drips out of the hose and bleed nipple under gravity / atmospheric pressure.
@@utopian666 Once pushed back in, then you can bleed the brakes as you would normally once oit;s all put back together. Brake fluid is cheap.
Hey Joel, what's the update on the rust issues?
Good to see you get your hands and face dirty😂😂😂. Keep it up Joel, the more you do the more your confidence will improve. Many service tasks can easily be undertaken even by a novice like yourself. Well-done
Thanks!!
Amazing how you get loads of free stuff
Bravo! It's the only thing I don't dare doing even if it looks kinda simple 😅 I drive on the Autobahn too much to take that kinda risk 😅
Please tell me you used new brake pad hardware!?! And thoroughly cleaned the rust off the carrier 🙈🤞🏻
The fronts weren't quite down to the metal, but were disintegrating so were caught just in time. The brake rewind tool wasn't needed, in fact shouldn't have been used, on the front brakes - the pistons should just be pushed back, it's easy once it starts to move. The rewind tool is needed on the rear because of the handbrake operating on the rear pads (some cars - Volvo, BMW, Rover 75 for example have handbrake shoes and don;t need a rewind tool). Good job though, brakes are relatively easy to do.
Highly recommend a breaker bar or impact driver for getting lug nuts off. Looked like a pain using that short wrench
Wheres the shirt at the end from please ? :)
My Grandad's wardrobe
Having worked on my Alfa brakes, I'm surprised you didn't bleed the brake lines, replace the brake fluid and top everything off. Maybe these Jags don't adjust like that? =D=
Crack open the bleed nipple on the caliper be sure to clamp the flexi hose to avid the fluid running all the way back. This will enable it to be much easier to get the piston in, once fully retracted open the bleed nipple pump the brake pedal to get the fluid back through the line then just shut off the bleed nipple. Great content joel look forward to seeing more
Thanks for the tip! Have some brakes for my TT that I need to fit next...
I’m glad your not doing my brakes < it was like the blind leading the blind , where was the anti seize on rebuilding ?
You would always clean up inside the callipers around the pistons and make sure they slid freely, especially with the tool to wind them back easily. And you always spin the hub / disc after fitting to check that it’s dragging by the right amount… not binding solid.
No way to get a single disc and pair of pads to replace the cooked ones I reckon, even if they do need changing (which I doubt).
you have to start somewhere, and from doing it this time, i've learnt alot that will improve it next time round
@@itsjoel Well you've got all the equipment now so you can get it sorted... presumably the handbrake components in the rear will need setting up or replacing as well to finish the job properly...
Hi Joel, great content, I am a Jag man, only of theis era though, I cant afford a newer one lol. Only fault with this vid is the stupid music, If its to loud to hear what you are saying, ITS TO LOUD...
You may have broken the world record for the number of times you said Halfords in 16 minutes
Fantastic, I achieved something!
You don't grease the discs - you de-grease them with brake cleaning fluid. Brake discs are stored with a light "sheen" of oil on them to prevent in storage rust, so it is critical to get that layer off before fitting/using them or the oil can transfer onto the pads. Slippy pads and slippy disc = brown trouser moment when you need to hit the brakes lol. Use WAAAY more brake cleaner than you did on both sides to get that layer off the discs. Good job tho - I used to do my own discs when I was your age (god that made me sounds old haha), but now cant be assed and pay someone ;)
Pagid discs dont come with an oil layer. They come with a painted coating
You could probably get away with re-using the new disc and pad. Im not a big fan of Halfords Autocenters, they tend to upsell a lot. The shops though have really come along in the last couple of years. Think with the pro tools, you get lifelong replacement on faulty ones
I have the same problem with my car...not as bad as yours though....the name of this problem is 'binding' ... that is....the piston inside the caliper has ceased and the pad constantly rubs with the disc... anyway ... my new caliper is on its way and soon will be fitted to my car.
Halfords Advanced? Isn't that an oxymoron 😂
Wouldn't take my car to Halfords in a million years even for a lightbulb change, had a bike built by them on e and they put the forks on the wrong way around 🤦
And don’t wear decent watch while playing mechanic
Rubber left on brake pads lol
tTe music is too loud. Can't hear what you are saying!!
Its a rachet Joel not a wrench
Halfords 😂
Get rid of that awful music