Small and Cool! Preparing for Intel Alder Lake!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Wendell is excited for Intel's Alder Lake, so he's practicing his small form builds to prepare!
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intro/outro music "Earth Bound" Slynk
My compliments to the editor. Thanks for the great work Autumn!
Thank you so much! ~Editor Autumn
“Cooling requirements for team red aren’t as challenging” ahh how things have changed in the last 5 years… I still remember all the memes about Bulldozer heating your house in the winter 😂
Or GCN cards, etc
Also @level1Techs, on the use of anti bacterial additive, I actually just add some car coolant concentrate specifically Tectaloy Plus - Xtra Cool Gold (Red version not Green), as it also has corrosion inhibitors and nothing is able to live with it in the system. I've found you only need to top up the system with more distilled water as only the water will permeate through soft tubing not the Gycol.
To top it off the coolant only really ions up after about 2yrs of normal use so minimal maintenance and a full flush every two years is great for set and forget builds.
Wendell, blink if Intel is holding you hostage.
EVGA actually will likely fix most things that aren't obvious negligence, their customer service is one of the best out of the GPU manufacturers.
6-32 is an imperial screw. A #6 screw is .138 inch, the 32 means 32 threads per inch, thus a 6-32 is a normal small-ish screw size, not a metric screw.
Oh how I hated my life living in a metric world trying to find some imperial 6-32 Allen key screws just so I could cut them shorter to fit the NF-A 15mm fans into the super slim Alpha cool TX 240.
Being in outback Australia kind sucks sometimes...
@@Syraxal we can get almost any metric size screw n the average hardware store, it's hard to believe they don't carry a stock of Imperial screws and Allen wrenches in Metric-land.
@@SuperFredAZ As far as Imperial Allen 'wrenches' go they're stocked everywhere but it took me by surprise about the screws. I went to all the local stockists no one had any or even stocked them in this particular size/thread pitch. Living in regional Western Australia, I ended up having to order the "Screw set UNC 6-32 30mm (20 pcs)" direct from EKWB, cost more to deliver than the cost of the 20 screws themselves... (which was ok I guess as I ended up just ordering more water cooling components from EK to level out the shipping costs)
I can't wait for Alder Lake, biggest Intel improvements in a decade and just as big as Zen was for AMD.
Keep telling yourself that... 😉
Knock on wood! Either way at least Intel isnt boring anymore lol
I love that case for it’s cost to performance to size value. I used it for my wife’s PC with an I5-10600k and a 3070ti all air cooled and it stays cool under full load. I love being able to almost fully disassemble the case for building.The white powder coat version of the case has caused a double-take from non-tech relatives thinking she was running an Apple product.
I’m haven’t done water cooling in like 5+ years. I love Wendell’s recommendation of getting screws at the right length. You can use any power supply just make sure it is turned off on the switch and jump the 2 pins on 20/24 pin cable(lookup PSU paper clip method). Also, make sure nothing is connected to the PSU other than the pump. The zip ties do come in clutch in those tight spots. Planning to get the NRMAX 200 with Alder Lake. I wish I could get the Beast Canyon but scalpers ruined that lol.
Unless you live in a 150sq ft Tokyo apartment where every cubic inch matters, I don't understand the obsession so many people have with building ITX or smaller PCs. Give me a nice mid-tower with a full ATX motherboard anyday! Many years ago I built a mATX system in a MicroFly mATX case and it was a huge PITA, so perhaps that is where I learned my lesson from. And while I never using water cooling either, at least I can see the performance reasons for risking using water cooling. For me, installing front fans, top fans, rear fan, and a quality air cooler on the CPU is the perfect build.
It's fun and new, I think most people that buy and plan a tight ITX build, already built a few ATX towers and just wanted to do something new.
EDIT: But I am similar I like my big tower. :)
Complete guide to preventing leaks:
1. Use compression fittings.
Ultimate guide to prevent leaks:
1. Use excellent air cooling. ;-)
I remember a Wendell always hiding behind monitors, now, he have quick release and radiator leak tests to do...
To really do your build right, only install 1 of the rad's fans to the CPU fan -- set it on a curve so that the fan drops to its lowest speed when the CPU is below an acceptable threshold and only ramp to speed above a certain temp you determine to be max capable. The top fan and the other fan on that rad should be set to temp control mirroring the CPU's ramp up via motherboard header, but at low loads, they should be OFF -- only come on at a reasonable loaded temp. The GPU controlled rads, do something similar, off until the temp hits a certain threshold with a curve ramping up to full speed appropriately. I can't tell you the temps because I don't know the loads, but that's how I do it. You always need at least 1 fan running for the silent loop setup to keep loop temps low without load. 1 fan is all it takes on an idle loop to prevent loop temps from climbing. Absolutely no reason to have the fans on when the machine is just idling / lightly loaded. Don't bother with all fan stop on light loads as the loop temps will climb quite a bit and the second it's loaded, the temps are quite high because the loop coolant is pretty warm and needs cooled down. Otherwise you're needlessly running air and the dust it contains through the machine. I've got 8 140mm fans in my case and they're all off except 1 that keeps the loop coolant temp low.
For example, my 5800x CPU fan is set to 30% until 55c where a straight line fan curve to 100% at 65c. The other fans are on a mobo header with a curve that's 0% until 55c then ramps to 100% at 65c (immediately jumps to 30% and follows the CPU's plot). Pump is 100% all the time however. The GPU controlled fans are off until 45c and start a ramp to 100% at 54c. It takes time to dial in each new machine configured like this because you have to learn its behavior and tune accordingly. If the mobo has a temp probe, you can place it in the GPU near the memory or power ICs and you've got a way to control the mobo fans with GPU and CPU heat at that point. You can also use it to tap the loop temps and set a separate curve on its temp if you desire. Lots of ways to do it -- don't waste fan life and make the case dirty needlessly pushing air through it.
I'm quite happy with my XC3 3080s on hybrid units with my modified plate to direct-cool the memory using paste instead of pads. I have XC3 3080 TI hybrid as well, works just fine. I have 2 FTW 3080 TIs, they're okay. I'm putting my kingpin into my alderlake build I'm preparing. Funny to see I'm not the only one getting a machine ready for AL -- though I'm not putting another board in it in the short term. Just more work and I don't need a 5th machine sitting here.
1:55 The FTW3 cards will fit with the stock cooler but you just need to angle it when installing.
You mean the tongue?! ;-)
Personally i think the Ncase was one of the easies cases that I have ever built in. Opinions and all that. You might want to take a look at the Barrow CPU AIO waterblock combo, or the IceMan Reservoir for the Ncase pretty neat products.
He has the iceman on hand already.. showed up in an earlier vid
SFX team red build comin in hot
_engagement_
Instead of using the EK reservoir/pump mount, you can get a specifically designed pump/res from Iceman which is designed specifically for the NCase, and does not require drilling your case.
Did you not see the vid? This is the m200 which requires drilling either way. Literally have both. And the Iceman's going on the base build ..
@@Level1Techs sorry I misheard. I think the Iceman NCase will also work for this case but you're correct it will still require drilling holes for the mounting post and pass-through inlet/outlet.
Was getting distracted midway into the video. My mistake.
The bottom rad will be starved for airflow with the GPU immediately adjacent. suggest you remove the bottom rad and just use the fans to keep the air moving in the right direction.
Good old school water cooled build
Very well done, Wendell! That's an extremely dense build. I'm a bit partial to the Sliger lunchbox style cases for my SFF water cooling, but that rear mounted pump/res is very hard to beat!
@Level1Techs Alder Lake is here I want my ITX build I'm more inclined to a nh-d15 which is more challenging from the itx size perspective and to have the less possible itx size to fit a gpu, etc over there would be awesome.
You should leave some air in the res to accommodate the higher pressure when the water heats up above 30C, otherwise you can put too much pressure on the o-rings/seals and it can leak while the loop is hot, even if it passes a cold leak test.
Isn't it better for pumps to not keep changing speed anyway, so setting it to one speed is best for them?
By using _"anyway"_ it might sound like I am complaining about how he said it, but that's not the case, I meant like, isn't that the optimal way to set it, so it's for the best?
This is such a great case. I am building an air cooled system in this using the Noctua C14s. Undecided between 5600x or 5800x but I am going to wait for Alder Lake
That is all well and good, but for my purposes, a bit too over the top. On my wishlist? A comparison of two systems "for the rest of us", with which I mean: a build into two CoolerMaster NR200 cases, one with a Ryzen 5600G or 5700G and one with an Intel i5-11500 (without K), and both of them *without* graphics cards, and with a simple Noctua L12S or something. Then compare the thermals please, and tell us about these more "office" or "work" oriented machines. Would for instance my 3,5" WD Red 4TB drive still fit on the side fitting with the Noctua's fan mounted on top of the heatsink? Or would it fit when screwed upon the fitting for the power supply (from inside I guess, before mounting the power supply into that casing)? That would be interesting to know and to see, and to hear experts' thoughts about these. The case is beautiful, and I *do* need one which is less than 200mm wide)...
Cheers from Germany,
Wolfgang
the zip ties on the soft tubing make me nervous
What of those performance degradations with Windows 11?
Thanks
Fluorinert is worth the price, Novec 7000.
Hi Wendell
I like Wendell's videos but Alder Lake i9 & high end motherboard will be close to $2000!
For gaming, I bet it will be 10% faster than a tuned a 10850k, which with a high end motherboard is less than half the Alder Lake i9 & high end motherboard combo.
Awesome SFF Build!
Leak test? We used to sell water-cooled dual CPU Apple PowerMac G5s which ALL FAILED with leaks. Hilarious, given the price users paid for those things.
Really nice build, was this a proof of concept or is this going to be your main workstation?
Isn't the z height of alder lake slightly higher than 11th gen?
Edit sorry lower. The Z-height has also changed to 6.529mm compared to 7.31mm on the previous LGA 12**/115* sockets. Wccftech
That means a different set of mounting hardware (expected), or at worst a change in block. That isn't a bad thing as IIRC the IHS has gotten a little bigger
@level1techs I believe that you need to do some more ITX builds, you get enough ASRock ITX boards...
What pump is that?
It's always better to have easier softline then problematic hardline. If you wanna change things much safer and faster toss in some QDC and your golden.
12:32 wut? I still can't find a good cooler for my 2990WX.
1:24 "the latest i9 CPU" would be more accurate. not sure about the greatest part.
I want to see this set up vs a deshroud mod using 2 T30 fans from Phanteks on the bottom to test gpu temps.
SFF ftw! Happy to see that content!
What's your clearance Clarence?
Hey all, what does Wendell have around his neck?
Man this is insane, the amount of gpus that are dying just beacuse of faulty and cheap labour that they chose. Bad soldering, cheap pads, forgotten finger glove inside the gpu or forgetting to put pads at all?!
Nocchewa!
Yes! Yes! Yes!
Still kills me how hard it is to do an air-cooled slim ITX build these days. Almost none of the CPUs are suitable.
I hate that pumps have "random ass" colors when they can just all be black.
Hope Intel improve they CPU performance and not turn into green-power-safe-mobile-iCPU
alder lake 300 watt ?????? DOA
XD it is quick release
oh no not you to @Level1Techs. all these guys using pictures with there mouth open. i dunno lol. you guys trying to say something.
stop putting gaping mouth photos for thumbnails, ffs
Why do you make the soyface in all videos? Can vite people not keep their mouth normal?
TBH as a fan of this channel, that looks terrible.......
Buying evga card is like buying nzxt case or gigabyte psu. It will die and company wont admit they make shit producs.
Aha.