ARP Headstud install 10th Gen Civic - without removing the head.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- Very long video but it should help you get the job done. Definitely something you should only do if you’re comfortable with doing this sort of mod. Also, I can’t guarantee everyone will get this right. This is NOT the correct way to install studs but it does work and shouldn’t hurt if your head gasket hasn’t already failed and isn’t disturbed during the stud install. The correct method would be to fully remove the head, have it machined, and replace the gasket. But so far so good on mine, I’m not the first to do this btw. The reason to do this is to avoid a common problem with these engines, head lift.
Things you’ll needs.
10mm and 12mm 6 point sockets and wrenches, a 12 point 12mm socket. 19mm wrench, 4mm and 6mm Allen sockets, swivel sockets adapter. Breaker bar, Torque wrench, small pry bar, needle noise plier, mallet.
Parts: Honda valve cover gasket, Honda bond, timing cover plate, antifreeze, MAPerformace ARP stud kit.
Two years and like 20k miles and still going strong on 26+lbs of boost. Same tune the whole time.
Thanks for the update
Did you ever re-torque the studs at all or just let it ride after the swap? I just did mine last weekend. Your video was suuuuuper helpful (in conjunction with the service manual). Going easy on it for now until my next oil change to see if i get any chocolate milk or not…. About 1000 miles or so to go until then.
@@AndrewCoker-vm7xj nope. Just follow the torque sequence and it should be good.
Just completed this in my 10th gen si. My advice is take your time and stay organized. If you get messy you will be sure to not get something back on properly. Also on the oil seal that everyone says leaks if you pray kinda on the middle of it using the head as a point of leverage the whole thing should be able to pop off without a single Knick on it. Thanks for the vid ready for ethanol and big turbo now🙏
Just in cAse anyone comes and read this my car is now rv6 big turbo e30 tune and head is holding up great no issues at 27 pounds of boost👍
@@Candybuiltsi ive only done coils and intake on my car. do you think arp studs is something a beginner can do?
@@kev2k the way he does it yes it’s easier just do what the video shows
Back a year later to say it’s still alive. Getting close to 100k miles now…lol maybe I’ll be back at 150
Hey y’all came back to say unfortunately she finally failed not much past 100k😅. My car is abused daily big time I’m mechanically inclined so new headgasket took me about 2 days to do after work. Car is back to 100. Final answer is yes it works, but doesn’t matter even if you do it right your headgasket will still eventually fail on oem block with the slits between the cylinder 👍🏻
I finally had my head gasket replaced after waiting almost 6 months to get it done. The one thing I was waiting for was the ARP head stud kit from Two Step Performance. They straight up were ghosting me after I ordered them. I tried calling, NO ANSWER. Also, NO RETURNED CALL. I told the shop to just put new OEM Honda studs in for now. I did not know MA Performance sold these! Looks like I will be ordering them from MA. Excellent video!! THANK YOU.
May I ask how much the head gasket replacement work cost? I am thinking of getting this done to ensure the longevity of my L18 as well, but I have no idea what kind of price this would be.
Definitely want more 10th gen content. Especially with this amazing level of detail on your DIY guides. Thank you much for making this video
120k miles. 115k miles fbo/ flex tuned and i need it now! 😊 thanks for the video!!
Its almost been a year since you did this here. Great work, was good to see you didn’t have any oil leaking there. First time I removed that plate I bent it to hell, with the pandemic going Honda laughed when I tried to order it . I had the same idea by removing it carefully and have had no chance to see if it worked or not but you did !!! So thanks! I’ve the arp studs just chilling here for over. A years time for sure . The gasket too, but no time to do the change and don’t need to just yet ! 🤞
what is that plate called? I need to get one.
Thanks dude! No issues with my 2019 at 24k miles. No tune, PRL cold air intake. I think I'll install the studs and replace the clutch before adding any extra performance parts. So studs, clutch, intercooler, then everything else I can add until my wife says "wtf! That's enough" 😂
As a new FK7 owner, this is greatly appreciated. Clutch and flywheel coming in soon and then this is the only other thing needed to bulletproof it for what’s coming. Absolutely love the FC3 too, Honda’s best 2 door since the RSX and S2000
You should definitely do more 10th gen si this was really beneficial
Thanks for sharing! That was awesome seeing that done and definitely the way I would've gone about it, one @ a time. I have a 10th gen. So I like video on them. As I did an amp, sub install off of a video of yours. Thanks again!
Nice vid., however, I was taught to NEVER EVER use a torque wrench for anything other than tightening. Never drop a torque wrench as it can throw off its calibration. What torque wrench is being used here? Does the manufacturer say it can be used as a breaker bar?
Correct don’t use it to loosen stuff
Yup I was going to say never use a torque wrench as a break bar, every time you use it as so it becomes ever so uncalibrated.
Thanks for the video bro. I was looking for a video on how to remove valve cover for a 1.5 Honda accord but came up empty. Since the Civic and Accord have the same engine this video was just what I needed. Once again thanks and I subscribed.
I think the way you did it is fine...and I also think it makes more sense to do one at a time. I'm going to do it this way too I think. thnx for making this.
Thanks for the video, and I think this is a brilliant idea for avoiding a head gasket failure. How long did you run higher than stock boost before deciding to upgrade the studs?
Probably 15kmi
@@JeepAndBass and then what happened?
While this does seem sketchy at first, I will say this. I've been a Honda tech for over 15 years, and in the service manual most cylinder head torque procedures have you do 22 ft lbs followed by a 90* turn and then another 90* turn (for J series V6 anyway). The manual states that if you hear the bolt creak to loosen that bolt and start over. Typically the final torque is between 95-105. So if I'm tightening the bolt at the final step, and it creaks, then I need to remove it and start over. So technically speaking, that's not all to different from what he's doing here.
Also, I thought many of the 6.3L AMG motors had head bolt issues and they were being replaced on the car. I might be wrong, but at the end of the day I'd say you don't have much to lose considering a blown gasket is really only a matter of time...
Mercedes-Benz updated the head bolts for the M156 AMG engine.
Awesome job! Thank you for sharing content. 🙌
Thanks for this video, I’m about to tackle this as well. Surely appreciate this was recorded thank you.
I’m a bit late but nice to see you were able to successfully do it!
What up Ray✌ I like how it looks those spark plugs connectors with the Honda logo👌
You're definitely awesome. Thank you for the content
You don’t use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, it can throw off the calibration.
Great Job !!! , how the gasket is holding on after the job & all this time < any troubles ?
My car is 2020 civic si. It doesn’t have rough idle, coolant stays the same level. Oil doesn’t get milky. Doesn’t overheat. But whenever I go WOT, its gets misfires and goes into limp mode. Its like the power surges whenever I step on the gas hard then straight to limp mode. Can it still be head gasket? I remember my coolant hose Broke sometime ago which made me lose the coolant and car overheated until I stopped. Whats causing this?
Sounds like head gasket issues.
Hey I know this is late, but are you tuned with a stock clutch?
What's the error codes that puts it into limp mode?
Without knowing what the codes are saying of why it's going into limp it's hard but could be something simple like boost sensors or something.
I know this is old, but what’s your battery setup? I see a prl tie down but what’s the rest of it ? Looks nice.
Good day! Appreciative video! Thanks for what you do! I really need a torque specification for the L15B7 engine. I would appreciate any information on this matter.
20 pounds
can you remove the head stud with a impact tools
Is there a follow up vid where he talks about any problems (if any) he found after?
Need an update PLEASE!! I am looking at doing this soon also
Any updates on the head gasket? Have you had any issues?
hey man how has this held up? im thinking about trying this but at 53k miles, idk if im better off replacing the gasket with it.... i have been driving conservatively for 95% of those miles
is this a job you think a beginner can take on? I've only swapped on coilovers and a simple intake.
How’s it holding up? When I first had my built k20c1 installed I initially had ARP L19 head studs. I changed to 4Piston spec’d +625 head studs when a mistake by the engine builder needed to be corrected. I’m boosting 34.8 psi
I need help with this code P0087 keeps coming on,when I drive fast no problem,once I stop check engine light comes on,pls any advice will be appreciated it.
What’s that oil block off plate called? Where could I buy a new one? Can’t find it, only aftermarket ones
Awesome vid! Thanks man
Can you do a video on the head gasket when you do it?
If I ever need to. Haven’t had any issues yet.
Nice video...
Any issues you ran into afterwards? Still on 28psi or considered raising it?
Still on same tune. Have driven it about 6k mi since this video. About to upgrade to the RV6 turbo
@@JeepAndBass good turbo... I've used it. A bit laggy but when its all spooled up its just wow. Its reliable too unlike w1 which break too often
@@JeepAndBass get the w2
I always thought the head gasket was trash the second you unbolt the head bolts.
What's going on on top of the battery?
Can you please do an update video??
I’m interested in knowing how many miles you have on your engine and how this holds up in the long term, I’m looking forward to doing this on my si but lifting everything and putting a new gasket in
Almost 3k mi on it since I did this.
Can you show a vid of your entire install of wiring including loc if you used one
can you update on this on how the car is doing since its already a few months have passed?
6k mi on it since this video without any issues. About to upgrade to the RV6 turbo so I’ll post about that.
Can someone help me how many torque does the engine value of a honda civic 2017 LX 2.0 have the plastic cover of the engine
This motor is no good to screw with do to the current head gasket defects/issues. Just my two
Great video man how has your si held up after all this time still running strong
I put 10k mi on it since this video and ultimately the head gasket started to leak. I’ve put a new gasket on it and all is good now.
@@JeepAndBass thanks for the reply what were the current mods you had on the vehicle
FBO (except for turbo) with TSP stage 2 tune, 30% ethanol. The majority of tuners say the stock turbo is the main issue because of how quickly it spools. A larger turbo is actually easier on the gasket and bottom end. So that’s my next step.
@@JeepAndBass good to know my head gaskets just blew I have the 27 won w1 and still happened I’m just doing research for my homie with the stock turbo
Did you have to resurface you’re head ?
Great video!
the clutch and stock headstuds are the weakest points on those motors, you can def tune and have no issues but once you get over 275hp 325tq youre gonna need head studs and a clutch or else youll pull a subaru
Where Are you Buy
Are the same torque specs for the 10th gen civic the same as the 2.0 accord? (10th gen as well)
It’s the same for a 1.5 Accord and CR-V.
Do you have the part number for the timing cover plate?
More of the jeep 💪🏽
I feel sorry for 1.5T Honda owmers. Honda quality has gone downhill. I'm surprised with all the issue this engine has specifically because Honda put this engine everywhere.
You would think that Honda put this engine thru torture tests to ensure reliability but it seems they did some shortcut
Which aftermarket ECUs can be hooked with this engine apart from motec? I mean ECU not piggyback ktuner or hondata.
Motec is all I know of. But I’m not super experienced with aftermarket ecu’s
@@JeepAndBass pretty expensive shit
Ty
Never ever use a torque wrench to break a bolt free
Dumb question but should you replace the head gasket when changing the studs ?
Most would say yes, but like in my case, if the gasket is in good condition you can do this. I have over 5k mi on the car since doing this and no issues to report.
@@JeepAndBass I don’t think I can do this myself 😂😂😂 where do you get the head gasket from
@@yksanta8997 you can buy gasket maker in a tube, that's the best way. I believe they have a gasket that's pre-cut but I'm not sure.
If the head lifts, the timing chain could be stretched. Replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner when you are doing this job. There’s three main reasons why a timing chain stretched and one of them is extended oil changes, poor design of the components like on a BMW N series four cylinder (with or without a turbocharger), and head lift causing coolant to get into the combustion chamber and blowing a head gasket. Diesel engines no matter who makes them that have overhead cams are always well known for timing chain failures especially at higher mileage.
The head would need to lift so much for that to happen. Car wouldn’t even run from lack of compression lol
So much for a hot retorque
You will never have the issue, just run 93 octane from day one my civic si 2019 54000 tune from 875 miles never run 87 octane in a turbo motor.
@@purvis162 head lift has nothing to do with what octane you use.
What’s the ARP part # for the studs ?
im stressing out watching this video lol
Have you had problems with the car?
None other than transmission.
Or at least I am
Idk bout doing this. Why not do it right and resurface the head and replace the gasket. This is just a Mickey Mouse way to do it. I’m not sure if the studs land on a coolant jacket if it does this it a bad way to do it
You need to add the turbo inlet pipe, no point on doing just the intake!
That’s planned when I get my turbo installed. But for a stock turbo the inlet really does nothing. It only helps once you go big turbo.
You're relieving the clamp force without replacing the gasket. It's functionally set because it's been through many heat/cool cycles together. This is not proper. I'm sure it works sometimes but the gasket should be replaced every time tension is removed, even if it is preventative and not yet blown out. It's not that much more expensive. This is a cut corner way to do this job. Just remove the head, it's not that hard as you know, and you can charge more for it without offering the cheap option AT ALL. I'm not an armchair tech, I have experience and certs. I'm not saying you don't either but I will professionally disagree with you sir.
If you completely remove the head is machining required? I won't be making big power upgrades for a while so I just want to know how involved ($) the correct method would be
Wanna do mine? 😂
No need to remove engine to do these head gaskets. From a Honda tech
I’d also advise against this procedure. The gasket is way more likely to be disturbed
You’re Coming here because you blew your head gasket on a 10th gen 😩
Mine is fine. Sorry to hear about yours! That’s what I’m trying to avoid!
Let me know the process necessary because I need to replace mine too🥲
Rpmraf does a whole breakdown for the sad bois with a blown head gasket
Yup new Honda’s are trash had to swap my engine hopefully doesn’t happen again
@@jrjr8738 yeah I just replaced mine and before I could finish the break in miles, my synchros gave out… Upgraded synchros here I come :)
Don’t do this !! This is some Mickey Mouse shit right here ! Do it right and remove the head and get it machined and put a new gasket. You doing it like this, how you gonna know if your head gasket is leaking already. You doing this ain’t gonna fix the issue just a waste of time
To each their own, it’s been done plenty on numerous platforms.
This is cringe. Do you way overnighted those. When The torque wrench clicks you STOP. you don’t keep racking the wrench.
You’re probably at 95- 100 foot pounds the way you did it.
Also even with the Apr studs look how skinny they are. You do realize that a D series motor has more durable head studs and they are about twice the size.
Modifying and building this motor is a complete waste of time and money. this is by far the worst motor Honda ever made if you want to modify it.
I understand that you are clearly stating that this is not the right way to do it. But this is the right way to warp your head. Not only are you supposed to tighten the bolts in sequence but you’re supposed to loosen them in sequence as well. This prevents warping the head
I did none of the things you describe.
so cringe, so ignorant, and complete hater😂. what lame watches a video about a car he doesn't like. 10th gen is king for a comfortable quick daily clown. Enjoy your clapped tin can
cringe to the max, what kind of lame watches a video about a car he doesn't like. oh yea I know, a weirdo
What happened to that Tube @ 15:44 Up right? Looks like a crack.