Such a great video to get Ciotti’s knowledge expertise in a consolidated video instead of sifting through hours and hours of lives streams. I hope he does more of these.
Hey guys - I was totally in your camp until about 4 months ago. I loved Ciotti's streams, BUT, they were so long.... Please, hear my advice. #1 - once you are familiar with his format, you will know when you can skip certain parts of the video, such as, he ALWAYS explains certain things to his audience (like how to make your comments highlighted in the chat for specific users to see). This saves time. #2 - if you watch the video AFTER it has live streamed - oftentimes there is a user (A GODSEND, REALLY) that takes the time to upload timestamps for Ciotti's vid's, so you can skip to specific portions of the video without having to watch parts that maybe don't pertain to your specific needs. This also saves time. #3 - Ciotti really understands Tinywhoops from PID tunes to motors, hardware, weight, etc and he openly shares this knowledge while he is working at his bench on a quad, and usually live streams himself flying the quad that he worked on, while pointing out all sorts of stuff regarding the build. #4 - The users in the chat during his streams are very tuned in and helpful as well. #5 - I almost forgot - and this is a perk - he does giveaways sometimes during his streams. I wish that I started with whoops - and I wish that I watched Ciotti's streams from the beginning. Joshua Bardwell and Ciotti are my 2nd favorite "FPV team up" on TH-cam (First is JB and ItsBlunty LOL). 😎
Thanks for the tips! I’ll take another look. I like how JB has key Q&A extracted from streams as a new video with appropriate title. More valuable to me to refer back to and thus spend more of my time actually trying to fly! But I gather that’s a lot of work, so I’m considering funding him more. It’s just that I mainly fly micro/whoops so get more out of @NickBurnsFPV presentation style than the live streams from @CiottiFPV and @Infinityloops.
What a great idea to Interview Ciotti and bring a deeper level of discussion of the thinking behind the list of what to get. Such great information and now I have some new build ideas!
Perfect for IGOW! Thank you JB for making a video like this.. I have a lot of whoops, but since IGOW4 preseason I feel like my gear is outdated/ needs upgrades. This video really helps!❤
Thank you so much for this video. It couldn’t have come at a better time. With my new FPV Drone Shop I’m opening, I’ve been trying to find this info for the last few weeks. Especially regarding Throttle Expo… I was so perplexed how anyone was able to fly whoops or acrobees inside like they do. My elevation was all over the place
Watching this while the batteries to my brand new 2S Flywoo Firefly Nano HDZero charge. Thanks so much for the detailed setup video! I wouldn't have been able to do it without that.
I have an Iflight A85. I love it. I went to a RDQ 4s 850mAh HV and increased the flight time to almost 8 minutes. The added weight has added more stability. This is my second one.
My 31mm is 0702 KV32k sub 18 grams and I love it… BUT a 65mm 35mm prop build is the ideal for many peoples freestyle builds, I also absolutely love it for freestyle (0802 KV27k tri-blades or go higher if you like bi-blades) The 75mm pro with 45mm props is my new found fun, 1002 motors or 1102 or whatever sub 3 gram motor you like (past 4 grams is too heavy)
Thanks!! Mostly confirms my ideas on whoops but boy did i hesitate to go into Mobula6 ELRS and boy was i surprised how good it feld despite the 07 motors - good explanation of Ciotti.
720mah HV Gaoneng battery for up to 5 mins flight time. I also converted my Mobula6 HDZero to 75mm frame. Still running stock motors with 1mm shaft and never bent one but i'm constantly replacing frame and canopy from very hard crashes.
Also loving 65mm 2s with 14,000kv 0802s on the "unbreakable" Cockroach frame with 300mah HobbyKing 2S batteries (Nick Burns' favourites). Just cut the plastic pieces joining the two vertical arcs and mount the battery vertically with a rubber band on the hooks. 5:00 min flight times and basically no sag on XT30. Heavy at 25g but with 2S I don't really notice the weight. Credit to Patrick Clark of PMB who gave me the idea with his 0803 build of ages ago.
@@jalkingforjesus yup! 17-19k 702 is the sweet spot. 702s are really light, bringing the weight down and you don’t give up power and battery life is still around 3-4 min.
@@ProjectMockingbird will have to give this a go. Do you think the happymodel 0802 19,000kv motors would also work? I have a fair amount of these from previous mobula6 or moblite quads.
65mm, GNB 300 (or 250 but you can’t get them) 2s, GNB27, NBD unbreakable frame, goober canopy and Tiny Whoop 19,000 kv 702 motors with HQ tri blades. 22 grams Most fun I’ve had racing and freestyle in forever.
Another folded black cell 320mAh in either PH2.0 or BT2.0 is the Dogcom/FYS Crafts batteries. They work just as well if not the same as the Tattu, NBD, WeBleed, and TW folded cell batteries.
The common factor for all us IGOW and Racegow pilots is the betafpv metor frame, high kv 0702, and one of the folded cell flavors in bt2.0. I made it through 100% of racegow on 1 build. About 17weeks on that build of igow too. It's looking like a lot are moving towards the 35mm pro frames now too.
I'm just tinkering with a mob6 right now and the VTX antenna is just lil wire soldered on the board.. no plug for the truerc antenna.. bust out the wire stripper and the solder folks!😉
I watched Ciotti's drift car video before this one. It is so good! That looks like a blast! Also this video was great. JB, I'd really like to see you get more into whoops so you can make your great tutorials on all of the tiny details I'd never know I was doing wrong.
This is awesome, especially considering it’s going to start cooling off at least in the northern parts of the country… I plan to start flying more indoor for the winter in a warehouse I have access to especially my FPV.
I LOVE these kinds of videos! thank you very much! will you do something similar for the toothpick class? I'd love that too... tinywhoops and toothpicks are the types I fly the most, so it would be fantastic. thanks again!
I stopped flying (mainly from burnout) toothpicks 5ish years ago and I don't know of anyone that is super gung ho about them any more who would have enough knowledge/testing to do a super in depth video like this. We do have a Toothpick page on Joshua's site with some great info I've sourced from my community but I wouldn't really be able to expand much on what's already written over there.
What is your recommendation for getting into Micro Whoops when I have DJI Goggles V2? I have done so much research (watching videos, reading all of FPVKNOWITALL, reading forums, etc.) and am still not 100% where to start. As of now I'm looking at the BDI Digital Adapter V2, TBS Fusion, Lumenier AXIl 2 Long Range Diversity Antenna Bundle, and a Meteor65 Pro. I'm not sure if that's the best route or if I should get an HD Whoop (but that would require dedicated Walksnail or HDZERO Goggles which are expensive) or to get straight analog Goggles since the DJI Goggles V2 are at the end of their life cycle and if anything happens then I have nothing (but standalone analog Goggles are also expensive). Any advice?
I'm on my first tinywhoop. Tinyhawk III Plus analog. Yes ANALOG. @Joshua Bardwell you need to review the higher TVL cameras available now. I'm impressed, not that I've considered digi, but I have and honestly i dont feel the point. I can tell you, for at least myself. ANALOG IS NOT DEAD, NOR IS PUNK!
Got a TinyHawk II a few years back (i think it was a few years anyway) and got the BetaFPV controller to go with it..... really didnt mess with it much (had nothing but issues updating and binding). Im a newb and i suck at flying LOL. Recently decided to give it another go...... got a simulator and a HolyStone HS210. And what do you know, a few days on the sim and practice with the HS210 and i can fly without crashing every 5 seconds. Have since up graded..... got the Mobula6 based on you and Nick Burns reviews, paired it with the RadioMaster Zorro 4IN1 (so i can fly my planes, my Mobula, my TinyHawk, and the BabyApe pro V2 i just got) I have to say the Mobula6 and the Zorro are an AMAZING pair! By far my favorite setup so far..... cant wait to work my skills up to fly my BabyApe If youre looking for a darn good performing whoop to get you started.......... GET THE MOBULA6!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pair it with the Zorro, and for around $200 you have an amazing combo! Goggles.... well thats a story for another time lol
I love the HS 210/420. They were a huge help with improving my skills on regular camera drones. The spare parts and batteries are only available from the Chinese warehouse, and they are ridiculously priced. They want like $12 per motor and $17 per battery for a toy. I had a ton of fun with it until I blew a motor though, it helped my skills substantially.
As a total noob who was waiting for his HDZero goggles to ship, I opted for the beta fpv meteor 75 just because it was sold with the batteries and charger. Easy. Then I ended up getting emax goggles because I couldn’t wait any longer to fly. I’ve broken three frames, although I’ve resurrected one with a little tape. I some how lucked out; I have a bunch of the stuff you are recommending. Beta fpv batteries (450 mah bt2.0). I guess I will upgrade my motors. It came with 18000kv motors and I’ve already ordered a backup set. I’m having so much fun with it that my 5 inch build is on hold. And I still haven’t used my HDZero goggles.
Us northern bad weather people love whoops. Right now my favorite is the Fractal75 with HDZero on 0802 25Kkv on 1s 450 XT30. Difficult build but worth it.
Thanks for the video helped me understand a lot , just getting into whoops had to get new googles , radio and charger lol but having so much fun. Could you please show an example of the throttle expo , would like to see it to get and idea of what it looks like.
I got 6+ minutes of flight with bi-blades 0802 with 660mah on mobula7 outdoor today. I agree that 450 is slightly better overall, less in flight but better control, and 380 isn't worth attention. I am waiting for new tri-blade props and hdzero whoop vtx to try.
I just did the same thing this week. I just bought some GNB 720 mAh batteries, and they BARELY squeeze into the battery tray of my stock Mobula7 1S. Even with aggressive acro flying I'm getting 6 - 6.5 minutes! And the heavier weight feels fun, it's a nice change up from the 450s I've been using
@@mikerich32 7 minutes, wow, that's nice! My original frame was destroyed on day 2 😂, so I bought a new one from Betafpv with the bay perfect for 2s batteries. I have no problem fitting larger batteries, had to put some foam to make the bay extra tight for the battery and try to keep the battery in place when crashing. I don't think mobula7 can do anything aggressive ☺️. It feels so underpowered outdoors. Usually just flying makes motors spin 50-75% so nothing is left for me to drive it fast.
Ciotti thinks they perform well, but they're too fragile. They bend even when just putting them on the motors if you're not careful. But they do perform very well.
The other problem I've been having with the Azi 40mm props is that if you leave them on the motors for a few weeks, the inner hub just sorta cracks and falls apart, really weird but it's happened to me 3 times now.
if you have velocidrone take Beebrain drone for the tighest maps (like House, full house tour or apartment maps). most realistic simulation of indoor flying
I just started in Velocidrone this week. I'm pretty limited on locations to fly so I'll be going into tiny whoops as my first physical drone. This video was super helpful to understanding part selection. Thank you!
Great Video! I have recently transferred a Mob6 HDZero/ELRS into a Meteor 75 on HQ Bi-Blades. (Which BTW can be done with NO disconnection to the soldered connections!) IMO it flies significantly better than the Moblite7 HDZero/ELRS. I note the comment on max 350mAh cells being available for 65s. I have GNB 380mAh for 65 frames and use GNB 650mAh for the 75 frames. I have no confirmation these cells are actually the capacity stated, but their run time is telling me they are not far off if at all. I have tested these against 300 (for 65) and 450 (for 75) and cannot feel any adverse effect of the small weight increase. (for hacking around and basic freestyle, not racing). Some real data on a wider range of cell size against flight time would be good!
The folded cell 300's perform sooooo much better than the 320/350/380's and come with BT2.0 which realistically makes them the only option worth running
In terms of the props, I am personally used HQprop 40mm 4 blades, which after a crush transform into the bi blade and can be reused. During micro time props was the most disposable item, and double usage for me was a good deal, combined with the performance and less vibration, due to the quality.
I went with Fractal65 Igow 2600kv motors cross Elrs FC tri props because I have them and forgot to order bi blades nano32 vtx because I had it, and it is awesome and foxer pico cam and you have to run webleed batteries.
Few days ago i ordered Mobula7 1s for indoor/outdoor - nice to see that i have space for upgrades. Ps. As i know mobula7 stock 20k motors got 1,5mm shafts as well.
for 65mm, wouldn't the meteor65 Pro version, that uses 35mm props(compared to regular 31mm on all other 65mm builds), be the go to option with a matching set of props? was this given consideration?
The name of the game with 65mm rigs is reducing weight, we've got a bunch of motors that make plenty of power so there are only really disadvantages with the 35mm props (main ones being no biblade option and they're heavier so worse PID loop performance and flight feel) and then being required to run a cross style AIO you then need to have an external VTX which is both heavier and much more difficult to build.
Couple points that were incorrect regarding whoop racing. 1. The cross FC + external vtx is not heavier. It is actually lighter than the HM AIO that Ciotti recommends. 2. Top racers are changing over to the new ultralight HQ props (available soon). 3. LEDs should be required for all whoops. Also, how do you not pick the owner of Tiny Whoop (Jesse P) or the creator of IGOW (FPV Skittles) to be the information source for tiny whoops?!🤣
Most flight controllers with an external vtx are lighter than the happymodel elrs 2g4 Ciotti recommends. Superbee, cross, jhemcu, and of course, the betafpv listed where they talked about it lol. The betafpv elrs fc with the tbs unify is definitely lighter than the 2g4…
My tinywhoop cells pretty much always hit 2.9v one every flight. You just don't notice any sag so you don't slow down. BUT even with 100''''s of flights bashing the mess out of them they still perform. Most have a crazy bend to them from bashing on the ground but they are still rocking.
I just bought a tinywhoop and having a blast! My only issue is the flight times ... 2-3 min goes by too fast I feel like I'm just switching batteries the whole time... I bought the 19kv version and for me its got plenty of power for indoors. I'm a newb so we will have to see as I progress.
My question is, if you’re dealing with a “heavier” 1s build, should we look at lower kv or Higher!? I under the impression I want lower for higher torque??
Great question, kv has almost nothing to do with torque, torque comes from stator size, kv comes from how many winds of copper are around each stator pole. So, the best way to improve the performance of a fat whoop is to go with the highest kv (for the most rpm and power with no increase in weight) motor that's got the smallest stator possible to save weight, BUT you can't go too small on the stator size because it'll overheat.
I don't think I have a Tiny Whoop that hasn't been fully submerged in the sink or cat's water bowl at this point and they all just keep going and going :)
Is there a radio you would recommend to get started with a Whoop? Maybe a budget option? or would it be but be better to get a better radio and be able to adapt to larger quads or planes? I kinda of think I should go budget as I've tried to get into drones a few times but it hasn't stuck, although it was about 8 years ago and Im sure you know it wasn't as easy as it seems to be now to get off the ground. id truly appreciate your thoughts, thanks for all you do here!
Thank you for that video, I found it very useful, as I'm gonna buy my first FPV and learn how to fly (indoor, we have restrictions in our country for outdoor flights). I'd want to ask you, what about the Mobeetle6, is it a good choice for the absolute beginners like me? In mobeetle6 I like that it is sold with 2 batteries, spare props, as for me it's a good start kit for not a big money ($110 on Aliexpress). Is mobeetle6 worth buying as a whoop for a newbee? Thanks again!
Are the NBD 300mah GNB27 batteries folded cells? I have a couple of packs of these and they are AWFUL. Like I get 1:30 flight times compared to 3:00 on Eachine 250mah GNB27s. They are also way heavier and don't fit the Meteor65 frame. Did I get a couple of dud batches or something?
you didnt discuss about AIO flight controller. i have 4 betafpv f4 elrs 1s. 2 of them have broken esc, one has broken gyro and the other have desyn isu. i love if cioti give recomendation on AIO fc
I am running the Happy models cross Elrs, it is very similar to the beta fpv one. I have only ever had on issue with happy models FC and it was my fault.
We have AIO's on the page, those are the ones we recommend, we did sorta skip talking about them but I guess there's really not much to say, the Happymodel F4 ELRS 5A is my absolute favorite for freestyle
As a high level racer, I disagree with almost everything that was said in this video. I'm really not the type that would usually say something like that but I feel like this is bad advice especially for new pilots. I'm tempted to make my own video of my opinions. It would be easier and shorter to list the things I do agree with so here's that: 1) ExpressLRS is king for whoops 2) HDZero is king for ≤75mm 3) 75mm is best of both worlds and great for playgrounds 4) start a custom build with a BNF 5) BT2.0 and folded cell is the only way to go 6) using a discreet vtx is better than integrated (but not best for newbies because it adds a lot of complexity to the build) (also this can be done without adding extra weight if you pick the right parts) 7) pinch cam is happy medium for all variables 8) most of the things said about 75mm I'd agree with.
For sure. I agree with most of your points. Only one I don’t agree with is starting with a bnf to do a custom build. At least not for the reason listed in this video, which is that it “comes with the best camera” (runcam nano 3). Although I think at the very least you’d agree with me that the runcam nano 3 is not the camera you want to be using. And there are other situations where I would recommend a BNF as a starting point for a build. It’s crazy to me how unanimous most of the high level community is in what they say. Everybody has a little bit different of preferences but having talked in depth about this stuff with so many top pilots, including yourself, the bulk of what you hear is the same. Even from pilots who prefer vastly different motors, like yourself preferring 702 vs nightwing preferring 802, the way you’ve both described the differences to me isn’t quite exactly the same, but it’s the same enough to where I’d say you both largely agree on the differences, at least at a baseline level, and you’ve just landed on opposite sides in terms of preference. But so much of that information, coming not just from the two of you but actually from the high level community at large, is either left out entirely or even contradicted here. It’s hard to figure out where some of these conclusions come from when the rest of the community seems to be largely in sync. To be fair though, this shopping list page is leagues ahead of what it was. It is interesting to me though that they refused to include the betafpv fc in the list before when it was actually good and have now put it in when it’s just about the least reliable fc you can buy. I’m glad to see the tiny whoop parts finally getting the recognition they deserve. If only in the racing category. Overall though this is probably the highest percentage of content in one video I’ve agreed with Ciotti. Even on your points alone, it meets that standard. So I think they’re at least headed in the right direction.
@@zachmachinahey you two! Would love to hear what other tips you have for us. Especially on the subject of AIOs, (what’s durable? Can they be repaired if an esc goes?) and even stuff like- what are your prop recommendations? Motor kv? Do y’all think Heads fractal builds (75mm 1s with 25,000 kv motors with 1.5mm motor shaft on a light carbon frame) are cool? How much does weight matter? Lol I want to hear what y’all think- not to contradict Ciotti, just to hear more really informed views.
Ciotti's information is based on surveys of top racers. If you have different information, obviously we're open to it, but you didn't actually say what you would do different or where you're getting your info from. Feel free to email if you want to discuss it further.
@@JoshuaBardwell I didn't say what I would do different because the list goes on and on. My info is just coming from personal and local experiences. I got back into the hobby a year ago after almost a 3 year break and everything had changed so much I kinda got to experience what it is like to be a newbie again. In that time I tried a whole bunch of stuff to find what works and what doesn't and I have climbed my way back near the top. (getting 2nd place overall at the tinywhoop open and 8th in RaceGOW) All of this said, I feel like I only know a lot about what works for racers and what works for newbies. Freestyle and cinewhoop I know very little about. I helped a bunch of people who were just starting and I've heard the kind of things they complain about. Some have stayed and some have gone. For example: Every newbie I have seen try whoops has said they are too fast to handle and struggle to get used to it. Usually that's with 802 19k motors. For this reason I start most of them on an old brushed whoop or recommend a throttle cap. So saying a whoop doesn't fly well unless it has >25k kv 802 motors seems like bad advice to me. For experienced pilots you guys said racers just use lower kv to make the flight times they need. While there is some truth to that at the high level I think the average racer doesn't even use the full potential of 802 19k and they actually fly worse trying to manage insanely fast motors. So the reason for using slower motors would be more for consistency and matching the pilots skill level and what they can handle. I use 702 26k kv and I still CLEARLY don't use the full potential of those motors so I personally wouldn't get motors faster than that. (which 802 25k are) I say this because Tdog was like SIX SECONDS faster than me at the tinywhoop open using the same motors I use. I think I will make my own video and send it to you if I find time. Currently cant find time to even rebuild my main quad though... In case I'm lazy and don't make this video I'd suggest talking to Zach Machina (Isaac Petit) I tend to strongly agree with everything he says. He has talked to a ton of pilots from all skill levels about what they like/dislike and why. He's got a good grip on all of this.
@@JoshuaBardwell our info actually comes from being top racers and/or talking with them every day, all over the US. Plus we also do lots of surveys internally after big events. Most of us have used most parts at a high level of flying and also have an extreme level of personal experience. Last time you guys released an ultimate whoop build I was told I was being offensive and hurtful for making suggestions because a lot of time went into planning the build. That makes it a lot harder to give helpful criticism directly to the channel. But I will support the the answers coming from the people who are actually involved in the whoop racing community, especially when they’re correct. So that’s where I’m coming from.
@@CiottiFPV yes the diamond FC is having major issues. I recently got two of them. One with the BMI and one with the ICM gyro. Bought from different vendors. BOTH have the same issues. No hex file or diff from the happymodel homepage helped. Bought new motors to make Sure they are not the problem. Quicksilver didnt help either. Really sad.
Good work for Beginners. I think this will definitely help some. It's certainly not complete yet, but I think some things are well covered. Emax 1S 300mah foldet cells? Are you sure?
@@CiottiFPV Can you give me a link or a data sheet? So that I don't have to ask emax myself. That would help me a lot! Thanks in advance! My Emax 450mah are not foldet cells I'm pretty sure (they are gray and the seam is not in the middle)
@@CiottiFPV So then I ask differently: Is the cell of your EMAX 300mah Lipos black and the seal exactly in the middle? If not, it is most likely not a Z-fold lipo..
I have the whoopfly16 with a dry weight of 36g with battarie about 48g. It has the 1002 with 21 000 kv. I thought about to change the motors to a 1102 19 000kv. What you think is that a good idea or will it hurt the components? I thought it is already heavy so mabe i use bigger motor to get more power. Is kv ok or to low?
Personally I use a rubber band and the tinyhawk 450mah lipos and they rip for around 6 minutes the best tho for like 75mm or 85mm would be the gnb 720 mah batterys my mob 7 runs for almost 10 min on them bad boys to heavy for the 65mm so I use the 45o on those ive built like 15 of em and yeah I agree the 26000kv motors by happymodle rip coulda just called em the red rockets like the rest of us tho
I've been flying with the Mobula 6 HD since it came out and I think it's incredible to be able to record on an SD card with pretty good quality in something that only weighs 26g, they should get more Tiny like this. A hug with colleagues
I do agree PH2.0 is bad over time, the contact surface is small and once it oxidized the performance dorp by alot. I would suggest replace new ph2.0 once you feel your whoop is sluggish, use electronic contact cleaner on PH2.0 battery will help. It is too late to switch to BT2.0 ocnce you have tons of PH2.0 batteries
I am really getting confused with the batteries here. What batteries should I buy for the Mobula 7 now ? And with bt.20 or ph.20 and somecable adapters ?
The support of Happymodel is in my experience fantastic. Just had a AIO Flightcontroller from them that a friend burned by reversed polarity. I could identify 2 burned Mosfets myself, but there was a DC Converter on the board that I couldn't identify by it's SMD marking. I eMailed Happymodel with my problem and got within 12 hours a reply with a exact model number, manufacturer and purchase link of that IC. In my experience the support of "good" Chinese companies that are on the market for some years is especially on a tech level often much better than the service from European or US companies that often don't even have a knowledge about the ICs used on their boards. The latter often just want to sell replacement boards, but don't help with identifying single parts or schematics.
Such a great video to get Ciotti’s knowledge expertise in a consolidated video instead of sifting through hours and hours of lives streams. I hope he does more of these.
True, i would like to have it compact. I dont watch ciotti because of the long livestream, even if i want to watch them
Hey guys -
I was totally in your camp until about 4 months ago.
I loved Ciotti's streams, BUT, they were so long....
Please, hear my advice.
#1 - once you are familiar with his format, you will know when you can skip certain parts of the video, such as, he ALWAYS explains certain things to his audience (like how to make your comments highlighted in the chat for specific users to see). This saves time.
#2 - if you watch the video AFTER it has live streamed - oftentimes there is a user (A GODSEND, REALLY) that takes the time to upload timestamps for Ciotti's vid's, so you can skip to specific portions of the video without having to watch parts that maybe don't pertain to your specific needs. This also saves time.
#3 - Ciotti really understands Tinywhoops from PID tunes to motors, hardware, weight, etc and he openly shares this knowledge while he is working at his bench on a quad, and usually live streams himself flying the quad that he worked on, while pointing out all sorts of stuff regarding the build.
#4 - The users in the chat during his streams are very tuned in and helpful as well.
#5 - I almost forgot - and this is a perk - he does giveaways sometimes during his streams.
I wish that I started with whoops - and I wish that I watched Ciotti's streams from the beginning.
Joshua Bardwell and Ciotti are my 2nd favorite "FPV team up" on TH-cam (First is JB and ItsBlunty LOL). 😎
Thanks for the tips! I’ll take another look. I like how JB has key Q&A extracted from streams as a new video with appropriate title. More valuable to me to refer back to and thus spend more of my time actually trying to fly! But I gather that’s a lot of work, so I’m considering funding him more. It’s just that I mainly fly micro/whoops so get more out of @NickBurnsFPV presentation style than the live streams from @CiottiFPV and @Infinityloops.
@@ericbrogren6358 mee too and Joshua with videos like crash recovery are bluejay, this changed more my daily flying
What a great idea to Interview Ciotti and bring a deeper level of discussion of the thinking behind the list of what to get. Such great information and now I have some new build ideas!
Ciotti's MicroWhoop suggestions are great, thanks for having him and his expertise regularly.
Am I the only one who like the videos on the way in? Never disappointed
Ciotti and Nick Burns are my go to guys for anything whoop and micro💯💯💯💯🔥🔥🔥🔥👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Meteor 65 frame, Happymodel F4-ELRS, TinyWhoop Pinch cam, 0802 26,000kv motors, tri blades. My perfect indoor whoop.
I guess my beecore f3 is like outdated , looking to refresh my 'china' whoops
@@markjwoodford1931 Unfortunatley, F3 chips no longer work with the software used now.
WB was the 1st US Based company in the USA with “BT2.0” folded, for over 2 years now… 🎉
WB on the cutting edge, bringing us the products we need!
who is WB
@@user-yk1cw8im4h we Bleed fpv
Best batteries I’ve ever tried on my tiny whoops. Hands down
*insert pic of obama putting medal on obama*
Perfect for IGOW! Thank you JB for making a video like this.. I have a lot of whoops, but since IGOW4 preseason I feel like my gear is outdated/ needs upgrades. This video really helps!❤
Thank you so much for this video. It couldn’t have come at a better time. With my new FPV Drone Shop I’m opening, I’ve been trying to find this info for the last few weeks. Especially regarding Throttle Expo… I was so perplexed how anyone was able to fly whoops or acrobees inside like they do. My elevation was all over the place
Watching this while the batteries to my brand new 2S Flywoo Firefly Nano HDZero charge. Thanks so much for the detailed setup video! I wouldn't have been able to do it without that.
I have an Iflight A85. I love it. I went to a RDQ 4s 850mAh HV and increased the flight time to almost 8 minutes. The added weight has added more stability. This is my second one.
Links to all this stuff at: www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-tiny-whoop/
Ciotti's channel: th-cam.com/users/CiottiFPVvideos
Links to the red rocket 30000kv motors are incorrect.
Thanks so much to you both! Invaluable information
@@ZippyFPV we actually noticed that when we were filming this, we're working on it :)
Amazing video, this is years of concentrated knowledge
My 31mm is 0702 KV32k sub 18 grams and I love it…
BUT
a 65mm 35mm prop build is the ideal for many peoples freestyle builds, I also absolutely love it for freestyle (0802 KV27k tri-blades or go higher if you like bi-blades)
The 75mm pro with 45mm props is my new found fun, 1002 motors or 1102 or whatever sub 3 gram motor you like (past 4 grams is too heavy)
Thanks!! Mostly confirms my ideas on whoops but boy did i hesitate to go into Mobula6 ELRS and boy was i surprised how good it feld despite the 07 motors - good explanation of Ciotti.
@Joshua Bradwell can we get an update to this for 2024?
The video comes in the right time! I am looking for a tinywhoop right now! Thanks for the review 😅
I started following CiottiFpv after watching this video
Super helpful information for flying TinyWhoop.
720mah HV Gaoneng battery for up to 5 mins flight time. I also converted my Mobula6 HDZero to 75mm frame. Still running stock motors with 1mm shaft and never bent one but i'm constantly replacing frame and canopy from very hard crashes.
Try the new Betafpv 75mm Frame or the Fractal its more robust
@@janswff will check them out. Looks good
Also loving 65mm 2s with 14,000kv 0802s on the "unbreakable" Cockroach frame with 300mah HobbyKing 2S batteries (Nick Burns' favourites). Just cut the plastic pieces joining the two vertical arcs and mount the battery vertically with a rubber band on the hooks. 5:00 min flight times and basically no sag on XT30. Heavy at 25g but with 2S I don't really notice the weight.
Credit to Patrick Clark of PMB who gave me the idea with his 0803 build of ages ago.
You should try Tiny Whoop 19k 702 on your setup. It’s soooo good.
@@ProjectMockingbird this is 19,000kv 0702 on 2S? That sounds nuts/awesome!
@@jalkingforjesus yup! 17-19k 702 is the sweet spot. 702s are really light, bringing the weight down and you don’t give up power and battery life is still around 3-4 min.
@@ProjectMockingbird will have to give this a go.
Do you think the happymodel 0802 19,000kv motors would also work? I have a fair amount of these from previous mobula6 or moblite quads.
@@jalkingforjesus anything past 17k on 802 just seems too much and hard to tune well. 703 NBD works well, but 17-19k 702 is just about right
65mm, GNB 300 (or 250 but you can’t get them) 2s, GNB27, NBD unbreakable frame, goober canopy and Tiny Whoop 19,000 kv 702 motors with HQ tri blades.
22 grams
Most fun I’ve had racing and freestyle in forever.
Another folded black cell 320mAh in either PH2.0 or BT2.0 is the Dogcom/FYS Crafts batteries. They work just as well if not the same as the Tattu, NBD, WeBleed, and TW folded cell batteries.
This is the video I needed to see I’m coming from rc drift and was looking at kits vs building
Have you seen my rc drift car chasing stuff on my Instagram? If not you're gonna lose your mind :)
The common factor for all us IGOW and Racegow pilots is the betafpv metor frame, high kv 0702, and one of the folded cell flavors in bt2.0. I made it through 100% of racegow on 1 build. About 17weeks on that build of igow too. It's looking like a lot are moving towards the 35mm pro frames now too.
I was literally just sitting here wondering this exact question!! That's crazy!!
I'm just tinkering with a mob6 right now and the VTX antenna is just lil wire soldered on the board.. no plug for the truerc antenna.. bust out the wire stripper and the solder folks!😉
Superb video guys perfect timing too, just doing a fractal 75
Awesome frame!
I watched Ciotti's drift car video before this one. It is so good! That looks like a blast! Also this video was great. JB, I'd really like to see you get more into whoops so you can make your great tutorials on all of the tiny details I'd never know I was doing wrong.
Thank you JB for this video, just the right time for IGOW LOL
After playing with meteor65, blowing up a 2s flywoo baby, I’m sold on the mobula and eventually hdzero.
So much great insight. Very cool discussion.
This is awesome, especially considering it’s going to start cooling off at least in the northern parts of the country… I plan to start flying more indoor for the winter in a warehouse I have access to especially my FPV.
I LOVE these kinds of videos! thank you very much! will you do something similar for the toothpick class? I'd love that too... tinywhoops and toothpicks are the types I fly the most, so it would be fantastic. thanks again!
I stopped flying (mainly from burnout) toothpicks 5ish years ago and I don't know of anyone that is super gung ho about them any more who would have enough knowledge/testing to do a super in depth video like this. We do have a Toothpick page on Joshua's site with some great info I've sourced from my community but I wouldn't really be able to expand much on what's already written over there.
@@CiottiFPV understood, thanks!
Im from Asia so I got the modula 6 as my first fpv and that SE0702-KV26000 motor Ive seen it at one of the drone shop selling it.
Great video guys. Straight to the point and full of great insight.
Super well done video guys! 😎🤘
Would love a video on how to setup tiny whoop throttle expo
I've gone over it a few times on my streams, come on by and ask me in the chat so I can walk you through it :)
@@CiottiFPV That is really generous! I will do that and I have already subscribed to your channel!
Micro-king : Nick Burns too !!
Nick is amazing, unfortunately he wasn't knighted the true King by Stingers Swarm like I was ;)
What is your recommendation for getting into Micro Whoops when I have DJI Goggles V2? I have done so much research (watching videos, reading all of FPVKNOWITALL, reading forums, etc.) and am still not 100% where to start. As of now I'm looking at the BDI Digital Adapter V2, TBS Fusion, Lumenier AXIl 2 Long Range Diversity Antenna Bundle, and a Meteor65 Pro. I'm not sure if that's the best route or if I should get an HD Whoop (but that would require dedicated Walksnail or HDZERO Goggles which are expensive) or to get straight analog Goggles since the DJI Goggles V2 are at the end of their life cycle and if anything happens then I have nothing (but standalone analog Goggles are also expensive). Any advice?
I'm on my first tinywhoop. Tinyhawk III Plus analog. Yes ANALOG. @Joshua Bardwell you need to review the higher TVL cameras available now. I'm impressed, not that I've considered digi, but I have and honestly i dont feel the point. I can tell you, for at least myself. ANALOG IS NOT DEAD, NOR IS PUNK!
Got a TinyHawk II a few years back (i think it was a few years anyway) and got the BetaFPV controller to go with it..... really didnt mess with it much (had nothing but issues updating and binding). Im a newb and i suck at flying LOL. Recently decided to give it another go...... got a simulator and a HolyStone HS210. And what do you know, a few days on the sim and practice with the HS210 and i can fly without crashing every 5 seconds. Have since up graded..... got the Mobula6 based on you and Nick Burns reviews, paired it with the RadioMaster Zorro 4IN1 (so i can fly my planes, my Mobula, my TinyHawk, and the BabyApe pro V2 i just got)
I have to say the Mobula6 and the Zorro are an AMAZING pair! By far my favorite setup so far..... cant wait to work my skills up to fly my BabyApe
If youre looking for a darn good performing whoop to get you started.......... GET THE MOBULA6!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pair it with the Zorro, and for around $200 you have an amazing combo! Goggles.... well thats a story for another time lol
I love the HS 210/420. They were a huge help with improving my skills on regular camera drones. The spare parts and batteries are only available from the Chinese warehouse, and they are ridiculously priced. They want like $12 per motor and $17 per battery for a toy. I had a ton of fun with it until I blew a motor though, it helped my skills substantially.
As a total noob who was waiting for his HDZero goggles to ship, I opted for the beta fpv meteor 75 just because it was sold with the batteries and charger. Easy. Then I ended up getting emax goggles because I couldn’t wait any longer to fly. I’ve broken three frames, although I’ve resurrected one with a little tape. I some how lucked out; I have a bunch of the stuff you are recommending. Beta fpv batteries (450 mah bt2.0). I guess I will upgrade my motors. It came with 18000kv motors and I’ve already ordered a backup set. I’m having so much fun with it that my 5 inch build is on hold. And I still haven’t used my HDZero goggles.
The Collective Represent!!
Us northern bad weather people love whoops. Right now my favorite is the Fractal75 with HDZero on 0802 25Kkv on 1s 450 XT30. Difficult build but worth it.
Thank you. That was helpful.
Thanks for the video helped me understand a lot , just getting into whoops had to get new googles , radio and charger lol but having so much fun. Could you please show an example of the throttle expo , would like to see it to get and idea of what it looks like.
I got 6+ minutes of flight with bi-blades 0802 with 660mah on mobula7 outdoor today. I agree that 450 is slightly better overall, less in flight but better control, and 380 isn't worth attention. I am waiting for new tri-blade props and hdzero whoop vtx to try.
I just did the same thing this week. I just bought some GNB 720 mAh batteries, and they BARELY squeeze into the battery tray of my stock Mobula7 1S. Even with aggressive acro flying I'm getting 6 - 6.5 minutes! And the heavier weight feels fun, it's a nice change up from the 450s I've been using
@@mikerich32 7 minutes, wow, that's nice! My original frame was destroyed on day 2 😂, so I bought a new one from Betafpv with the bay perfect for 2s batteries. I have no problem fitting larger batteries, had to put some foam to make the bay extra tight for the battery and try to keep the battery in place when crashing.
I don't think mobula7 can do anything aggressive ☺️. It feels so underpowered outdoors. Usually just flying makes motors spin 50-75% so nothing is left for me to drive it fast.
newbeedrone azi 40mm tri-blade is a really nice option. what do you think?
Ciotti thinks they perform well, but they're too fragile. They bend even when just putting them on the motors if you're not careful. But they do perform very well.
The other problem I've been having with the Azi 40mm props is that if you leave them on the motors for a few weeks, the inner hub just sorta cracks and falls apart, really weird but it's happened to me 3 times now.
@@CiottiFPV sounds like they shrink.
the hub has also been a weekspot at mine, but i break them crashing, they dont last many weeks ;)
The timing of this video is great, looking to buy a tiny whoop to practice with (Spent 50 hours in simulators)
if you have velocidrone take Beebrain drone for the tighest maps (like House, full house tour or apartment maps). most realistic simulation of indoor flying
@@franciscohompler2773 thanks!! Will do, awesome!
I just started in Velocidrone this week. I'm pretty limited on locations to fly so I'll be going into tiny whoops as my first physical drone. This video was super helpful to understanding part selection. Thank you!
Great Video! I have recently transferred a Mob6 HDZero/ELRS into a Meteor 75 on HQ Bi-Blades. (Which BTW can be done with NO disconnection to the soldered connections!) IMO it flies significantly better than the Moblite7 HDZero/ELRS. I note the comment on max 350mAh cells being available for 65s. I have GNB 380mAh for 65 frames and use GNB 650mAh for the 75 frames. I have no confirmation these cells are actually the capacity stated, but their run time is telling me they are not far off if at all. I have tested these against 300 (for 65) and 450 (for 75) and cannot feel any adverse effect of the small weight increase. (for hacking around and basic freestyle, not racing). Some real data on a wider range of cell size against flight time would be good!
The folded cell 300's perform sooooo much better than the 320/350/380's and come with BT2.0 which realistically makes them the only option worth running
Any suggestions for better batteries for HAPPYMODEL MOBULA6?
Our suggested batteries are the best available
@@CiottiFPV Thanks for the reply!
Great video
In terms of the props, I am personally used HQprop 40mm 4 blades, which after a crush transform into the bi blade and can be reused. During micro time props was the most disposable item, and double usage for me was a good deal, combined with the performance and less vibration, due to the quality.
I went with Fractal65 Igow 2600kv motors cross Elrs FC tri props because I have them and forgot to order bi blades nano32 vtx because I had it, and it is awesome and foxer pico cam and you have to run webleed batteries.
great video!
Tinywhoop? Tell me more
Beautiful video. You weren't lying with the Cinematic title
Few days ago i ordered Mobula7 1s for indoor/outdoor - nice to see that i have space for upgrades. Ps. As i know mobula7 stock 20k motors got 1,5mm shafts as well.
they do
Yup, unfortunately 20,000kv isn't nearly enough though so the best place for them is in the bin :)
@@CiottiFPV finally... you are probably right. For the beginner whooper hopefully might be enough :)
@@CiottiFPV is there any way to boost them with idle or anything?
@@SnakeCakeExotics unfortunately not
I thought the Mobula 65mm & 75mm in the Brushless version's at least, can do 1S-2S now on the newest version?
for 65mm, wouldn't the meteor65 Pro version, that uses 35mm props(compared to regular 31mm on all other 65mm builds), be the go to option with a matching set of props? was this given consideration?
Didn't understand why meteor was overlooked too
The name of the game with 65mm rigs is reducing weight, we've got a bunch of motors that make plenty of power so there are only really disadvantages with the 35mm props (main ones being no biblade option and they're heavier so worse PID loop performance and flight feel) and then being required to run a cross style AIO you then need to have an external VTX which is both heavier and much more difficult to build.
@@marinebymistake See above, nothing's been overlooked but we only recommend the best options so that you have the best flight experience possible
@@CiottiFPV got it, thank you
Couple points that were incorrect regarding whoop racing. 1. The cross FC + external vtx is not heavier. It is actually lighter than the HM AIO that Ciotti recommends. 2. Top racers are changing over to the new ultralight HQ props (available soon). 3. LEDs should be required for all whoops.
Also, how do you not pick the owner of Tiny Whoop (Jesse P) or the creator of IGOW (FPV Skittles) to be the information source for tiny whoops?!🤣
^^^
Most flight controllers with an external vtx are lighter than the happymodel elrs 2g4 Ciotti recommends. Superbee, cross, jhemcu, and of course, the betafpv listed where they talked about it lol. The betafpv elrs fc with the tbs unify is definitely lighter than the 2g4…
I took the plunge and picked up a mobula6, meteor6 frames, and some props for the 25000kv motors. Oh yeah
great content. thankyou!
My tinywhoop cells pretty much always hit 2.9v one every flight. You just don't notice any sag so you don't slow down. BUT even with 100''''s of flights bashing the mess out of them they still perform. Most have a crazy bend to them from bashing on the ground but they are still rocking.
Hi, just bought the Whoop yesterday😅 lets see if i got it right💪🏻
I just bought a tinywhoop and having a blast! My only issue is the flight times ... 2-3 min goes by too fast I feel like I'm just switching batteries the whole time...
I bought the 19kv version and for me its got plenty of power for indoors. I'm a newb so we will have to see as I progress.
Is there an updated version of this?
isn't the iFlight A75 the better whoop option for DJI users?
My question is, if you’re dealing with a “heavier” 1s build, should we look at lower kv or Higher!? I under the impression I want lower for higher torque??
Great question, kv has almost nothing to do with torque, torque comes from stator size, kv comes from how many winds of copper are around each stator pole. So, the best way to improve the performance of a fat whoop is to go with the highest kv (for the most rpm and power with no increase in weight) motor that's got the smallest stator possible to save weight, BUT you can't go too small on the stator size because it'll overheat.
@@CiottiFPV thank you! I’m actually building a Diatone GT R90, as a 1s rig! I’d love to send pics to show you!
I've drowned my my old original mob6 in the dogs water bowl 2ce, surprisingly it still works fine lol 😅
I don't think I have a Tiny Whoop that hasn't been fully submerged in the sink or cat's water bowl at this point and they all just keep going and going :)
Is there a radio you would recommend to get started with a Whoop? Maybe a budget option? or would it be but be better to get a better radio and be able to adapt to larger quads or planes?
I kinda of think I should go budget as I've tried to get into drones a few times but it hasn't stuck, although it was about 8 years ago and Im sure you know it wasn't as easy as it seems to be now to get off the ground. id truly appreciate your thoughts, thanks for all you do here!
So I have been looking at the fractal engineering 75 RTF. Anyone have any input on how those fly? I have a mobula 7 analog and like it.
I have a live stream about the Fractal frames, the only thing they do better than our recommendations here is to not have ducts in view
Thank you for that video, I found it very useful, as I'm gonna buy my first FPV and learn how to fly (indoor, we have restrictions in our country for outdoor flights). I'd want to ask you, what about the Mobeetle6, is it a good choice for the absolute beginners like me? In mobeetle6 I like that it is sold with 2 batteries, spare props, as for me it's a good start kit for not a big money ($110 on Aliexpress). Is mobeetle6 worth buying as a whoop for a newbee?
Thanks again!
I have the meteor75 and it’s great I prefer the bt2.0 battery
Are the NBD 300mah GNB27 batteries folded cells? I have a couple of packs of these and they are AWFUL. Like I get 1:30 flight times compared to 3:00 on Eachine 250mah GNB27s.
They are also way heavier and don't fit the Meteor65 frame.
Did I get a couple of dud batches or something?
Why don't you use GNB27 connectors?
There aren't any lightweight batteries with that connector and there have been QC issues with them
1002 31mm triblade+bi blade 15500kv 2s here! you can probably get a 802 to work as good but nothing handles as good as a under propped big boi motor
you didnt discuss about AIO flight controller. i have 4 betafpv f4 elrs 1s. 2 of them have broken esc, one has broken gyro and the other have desyn isu. i love if cioti give recomendation on AIO fc
I am running the Happy models cross Elrs, it is very similar to the beta fpv one. I have only ever had on issue with happy models FC and it was my fault.
We have AIO's on the page, those are the ones we recommend, we did sorta skip talking about them but I guess there's really not much to say, the Happymodel F4 ELRS 5A is my absolute favorite for freestyle
As a high level racer, I disagree with almost everything that was said in this video. I'm really not the type that would usually say something like that but I feel like this is bad advice especially for new pilots. I'm tempted to make my own video of my opinions.
It would be easier and shorter to list the things I do agree with so here's that:
1) ExpressLRS is king for whoops
2) HDZero is king for ≤75mm
3) 75mm is best of both worlds and great for playgrounds
4) start a custom build with a BNF
5) BT2.0 and folded cell is the only way to go
6) using a discreet vtx is better than integrated (but not best for newbies because it adds a lot of complexity to the build) (also this can be done without adding extra weight if you pick the right parts)
7) pinch cam is happy medium for all variables
8) most of the things said about 75mm I'd agree with.
For sure. I agree with most of your points. Only one I don’t agree with is starting with a bnf to do a custom build. At least not for the reason listed in this video, which is that it “comes with the best camera” (runcam nano 3). Although I think at the very least you’d agree with me that the runcam nano 3 is not the camera you want to be using. And there are other situations where I would recommend a BNF as a starting point for a build.
It’s crazy to me how unanimous most of the high level community is in what they say. Everybody has a little bit different of preferences but having talked in depth about this stuff with so many top pilots, including yourself, the bulk of what you hear is the same. Even from pilots who prefer vastly different motors, like yourself preferring 702 vs nightwing preferring 802, the way you’ve both described the differences to me isn’t quite exactly the same, but it’s the same enough to where I’d say you both largely agree on the differences, at least at a baseline level, and you’ve just landed on opposite sides in terms of preference.
But so much of that information, coming not just from the two of you but actually from the high level community at large, is either left out entirely or even contradicted here. It’s hard to figure out where some of these conclusions come from when the rest of the community seems to be largely in sync.
To be fair though, this shopping list page is leagues ahead of what it was.
It is interesting to me though that they refused to include the betafpv fc in the list before when it was actually good and have now put it in when it’s just about the least reliable fc you can buy.
I’m glad to see the tiny whoop parts finally getting the recognition they deserve. If only in the racing category.
Overall though this is probably the highest percentage of content in one video I’ve agreed with Ciotti. Even on your points alone, it meets that standard.
So I think they’re at least headed in the right direction.
@@zachmachinahey you two! Would love to hear what other tips you have for us. Especially on the subject of AIOs, (what’s durable? Can they be repaired if an esc goes?) and even stuff like- what are your prop recommendations? Motor kv? Do y’all think Heads fractal builds (75mm 1s with 25,000 kv motors with 1.5mm motor shaft on a light carbon frame) are cool? How much does weight matter? Lol I want to hear what y’all think- not to contradict Ciotti, just to hear more really informed views.
Ciotti's information is based on surveys of top racers. If you have different information, obviously we're open to it, but you didn't actually say what you would do different or where you're getting your info from. Feel free to email if you want to discuss it further.
@@JoshuaBardwell I didn't say what I would do different because the list goes on and on. My info is just coming from personal and local experiences. I got back into the hobby a year ago after almost a 3 year break and everything had changed so much I kinda got to experience what it is like to be a newbie again. In that time I tried a whole bunch of stuff to find what works and what doesn't and I have climbed my way back near the top. (getting 2nd place overall at the tinywhoop open and 8th in RaceGOW) All of this said, I feel like I only know a lot about what works for racers and what works for newbies. Freestyle and cinewhoop I know very little about. I helped a bunch of people who were just starting and I've heard the kind of things they complain about. Some have stayed and some have gone. For example: Every newbie I have seen try whoops has said they are too fast to handle and struggle to get used to it. Usually that's with 802 19k motors. For this reason I start most of them on an old brushed whoop or recommend a throttle cap. So saying a whoop doesn't fly well unless it has >25k kv 802 motors seems like bad advice to me. For experienced pilots you guys said racers just use lower kv to make the flight times they need. While there is some truth to that at the high level I think the average racer doesn't even use the full potential of 802 19k and they actually fly worse trying to manage insanely fast motors. So the reason for using slower motors would be more for consistency and matching the pilots skill level and what they can handle. I use 702 26k kv and I still CLEARLY don't use the full potential of those motors so I personally wouldn't get motors faster than that. (which 802 25k are) I say this because Tdog was like SIX SECONDS faster than me at the tinywhoop open using the same motors I use.
I think I will make my own video and send it to you if I find time. Currently cant find time to even rebuild my main quad though... In case I'm lazy and don't make this video I'd suggest talking to Zach Machina (Isaac Petit) I tend to strongly agree with everything he says. He has talked to a ton of pilots from all skill levels about what they like/dislike and why. He's got a good grip on all of this.
@@JoshuaBardwell our info actually comes from being top racers and/or talking with them every day, all over the US. Plus we also do lots of surveys internally after big events. Most of us have used most parts at a high level of flying and also have an extreme level of personal experience.
Last time you guys released an ultimate whoop build I was told I was being offensive and hurtful for making suggestions because a lot of time went into planning the build. That makes it a lot harder to give helpful criticism directly to the channel. But I will support the the answers coming from the people who are actually involved in the whoop racing community, especially when they’re correct. So that’s where I’m coming from.
both my mob7 and mobeetle have 400mw vtxs
do you plan on covering the enw mobula 8? I really hope they release a walksnail one, only analog rn
Which rates do you use?
I got a different end-card (ORQAPocalypse). I was looking forward to seeing the tiny whoop drift car chase.
It's over on my channel, Joshua will add it once he sees my Facebook message with the link :)
How would you rate the mobeetle 6 Vs the mobula 6. Reviews suggest that the mobeetle is better but it's hard to know in reality.
It comes with the Diamond AIO which is a disaster, stay far away
@@CiottiFPV yes the diamond FC is having major issues. I recently got two of them. One with the BMI and one with the ICM gyro. Bought from different vendors. BOTH have the same issues.
No hex file or diff from the happymodel homepage helped. Bought new motors to make Sure they are not the problem. Quicksilver didnt help either. Really sad.
What is the best option for apartments with crossfire?
Good work for Beginners. I think this will definitely help some. It's certainly not complete yet, but I think some things are well covered. Emax 1S 300mah foldet cells? Are you sure?
I am sure :)
@@CiottiFPV Can you give me a link or a data sheet? So that I don't have to ask emax myself. That would help me a lot! Thanks in advance! My Emax 450mah are not foldet cells I'm pretty sure (they are gray and the seam is not in the middle)
@@butterflyfpv I don’t have anything like that, I’m just a random guy on the internet lol
@@CiottiFPV So then I ask differently: Is the cell of your EMAX 300mah Lipos black and the seal exactly in the middle? If not, it is most likely not a Z-fold lipo..
I have the whoopfly16 with a dry weight of 36g with battarie about 48g. It has the 1002 with 21 000 kv. I thought about to change the motors to a 1102 19 000kv. What you think is that a good idea or will it hurt the components? I thought it is already heavy so mabe i use bigger motor to get more power. Is kv ok or to low?
Personally I use a rubber band and the tinyhawk 450mah lipos and they rip for around 6 minutes the best tho for like 75mm or 85mm would be the gnb 720 mah batterys my mob 7 runs for almost 10 min on them bad boys to heavy for the 65mm so I use the 45o on those ive built like 15 of em and yeah I agree the 26000kv motors by happymodle rip coulda just called em the red rockets like the rest of us tho
Can I find a perfect tune for that recommended mobula6 build somewhere?
I've been flying with the Mobula 6 HD since it came out and I think it's incredible to be able to record on an SD card with pretty good quality in something that only weighs 26g, they should get more Tiny like this. A hug with colleagues
u have to reflesh the firmware if the lipo goes too low...
Is there any tiny whoops you can bind to dji goggles and rc
The Flywoo Flylens is available with DJI O3 but it's pretty heavy.
@@JoshuaBardwell cheers josh
which is the best freestyle tinywhoop?
I do agree PH2.0 is bad over time, the contact surface is small and once it oxidized the performance dorp by alot. I would suggest replace new ph2.0 once you feel your whoop is sluggish, use electronic contact cleaner on PH2.0 battery will help. It is too late to switch to BT2.0 ocnce you have tons of PH2.0 batteries
So is the Mobula 6 still the best now Meteor 65pro is out? or does the 65pro take the cake?
Is the mob7 frame as strong as the meteor 75 frame?
He mentioned in the video that the meteor frame is more durable
I am really getting confused with the batteries here. What batteries should I buy for the Mobula 7 now ? And with bt.20 or ph.20 and somecable adapters ?
The support of Happymodel is in my experience fantastic. Just had a AIO Flightcontroller from them that a friend burned by reversed polarity. I could identify 2 burned Mosfets myself, but there was a DC Converter on the board that I couldn't identify by it's SMD marking. I eMailed Happymodel with my problem and got within 12 hours a reply with a exact model number, manufacturer and purchase link of that IC. In my experience the support of "good" Chinese companies that are on the market for some years is especially on a tech level often much better than the service from European or US companies that often don't even have a knowledge about the ICs used on their boards. The latter often just want to sell replacement boards, but don't help with identifying single parts or schematics.
Is the Flywoo firefly 2S nano worth considering for the DJI users?
Hey nice video !!! Where Can I get a nice tune/pid for a mobula6 + redrocket motors 30k kv ? Thanks !